architecture – Snapping The Globe

Friends in Foreign Places

Portugal is one of those places that you just can’t get enough of. Of course, that being said, your legs and feet might tire quickly of the multitude of stairs and elevations that comes with climbing throughout hilly cities like Lisbon and Sintra!

One day, I decided that I needed some sea-level sight-seeing. A friend was in the nearby coastal community of Cascais perfecting his Portuguese in one of the local schools and I made a plan to take the train for a quick visit.

After working all night, a nap was desperately needed, so I texted him that I would take the three o’clock train. Of course, my Uber ride to the station was delayed by traffic so my departure was about twenty minutes later, but still, daylight hours are plentiful in late May and we would have time to do a quick tour of the town.

Forty minutes later, after some beautiful coastal scenery, I was waving to Dave as I exited the train. There were some items of particular interest that I wanted to explore on my own and had planned to meet Dave a little later (so as not to bore him), but he insisted that he would be my tour guide so that I would not miss anything!

Setting off from the station, Dave and I began our trek on the cobbled streets of Cascais, passing colorful buildings, patterned walkways and stunning architecture underneath a dazzling blue sky. Boats bobbed on the water, sunbathers lounged lazily on the Praia da Rebeira and residents and visitors were out in full force exercising and enjoying the beauty and warmth of the afternoon.

*The sights and architecture of Cascais*

First, we encountered 5th of October Square, the heart of Cascais, of which the name comes from the revolution in 1910, when the monarchy was abolished in Portugal. This square boasts the traditional black and white calçada, wave-patterned pavement, which can be seen throughout the city, as well as the Old Town Hall and the statue of Dom Pedro I, King of 14th century Portugal.

Moving on, we found Nossa Senhora Da Assunção (Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral). Dave was not sure of its opening hours, however, we were lucky enough to find the doors open. This church was originally built in the 1500s on the site of a Visigothic necropolis. Damaged by the 1755 earthquake, it was restored and remains the main church of Cascais.

Inside the single-nave church, we were greeted by a barrel-vaulted ceiling centered with a image created by José Malhoa of Our Lady of the Assumption and original blue tile panels that were added from 1720 to 1748, depicting scenes of the life of the Virgin, which thankfully, survived the earthquake’s fury.

The gilded-wooden main altar at the far end was remarkably detailed as well as the side chapels designed in the same style. On the upper walls, there were a number of 17th century paintings, some by Josefa d’Obidos, one of Portugal’s most prolific painters and one of the few female artists in the world at the time. The baptistry also contained some traditional tilework in the Portuguese style.

While the cathedral wasn’t a large one, it’s impressive interior was worth visiting and we were glad that we had encountered it unlocked, as we learned later that it usually only opens for services.

As we circled the building, we found a statue of Pope John Paul II, which was unveiled in 2010 as a tribute to the much loved Pope by the city. The life-sized statue depicts the Pope bestowing a blessing and holding a staff and was designed by artist Alves André.

A short walk from the cathedral, we found the entrance to the Citadel of Cascais which was built between the 15th and 17th centuries to defend the coastline and to protect attacks on the capital city, Lisbon, by the English. By the 19th century, however, King Luis I of Portugal ordered it to become a place of rest and retreat for the royal family. As the royal family spent the months of September and October in the city, it grew and attracted other affluent people who also desired to spend their summers there. Electricity was installed in the late 1800s and in 1977, the complex was restored and classified as a Property of Public Interest.

While I expected the traditional architecture of a fortification, I wasn’t quite expecting what lay inside. Normally, I would think to find cannons and war memorabilia, however, the Citadel now boasts an Arts Center and a hotel built into one of its buildings. There were some interesting pieces of modern art scattered throughout the premises as well as the traditional patterned pavement, blending old with the new.

A little further down Avenida R. Humberto II de Italia, we discovered the 17th century Chapel São Sabastião on the grounds of the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães and Marechal Carmona Park. The chapel is closed to the public, but we learned that its interior’s walls are lined with traditional painted tile images of Saint Sebastian’s life and his deeds as a saint. The chapel is maintained by the Dominican fathers, who hold religious services in English every Sunday, and it is a popular location for weddings and baptisms.

Walking a short distance, we checked out the grounds of the museum, posing alongside the painted tile fountain and checked out its cloister. Its décor was extremely detailed, yet eclectic, and while we were curious about its interior and history, we did not have time to include it in our visit. What we did learn, however, was that it was originally known as the Torre de São Sebastião (St. Sebastian’s Tower) and was built in 1900 as an aristocrat’s summer residence. It became a museum in 1931 and includes significant national and international paintings, furniture, porcelain, jewelry and a neo-Gothic organ.

While what we had seen so far of the building’s exterior was stunning, it wasn’t until we continued on Avenida Rei Humberto II de Italia that we realized its most striking feature…the tower, with its base jutting out into a small cove. There are several gargoyles, protruding eaves and porches and it sits alongside a small beach and the waterway that passes underneath the road. And to the tower’s yin, there was its yang sitting across the road on the coast…the lofty Santa Maria Lighthouse, adjacent to Casa Santa Maria, a perfect example of a Portuguese house.

As if this scenery wasn’t spectacular enough, a little further up the road, we encountered a pathway leading to the natural bridge, Boca do Inferno, formed by the erosion of rock from the pounding of the waves beneath. There were a few restaurants here, some street performers and a building with a few vendors. It was a nice place to regroup for our walk back to town.

Dave and I were walking along, back to town, conversing about work. Since our job is so unique, sometimes people can discern what we do just from the terms we use. All of a sudden, a couple sidled up along side of us and asked us if we were flight attendants. After a short conversation, amazingly enough, they knew someone who had worked for our company and had retired in Cascais! They tried calling her to meet us, unsuccessfully, however, but they continued to walk with us back toward town.

Next thing you know, we were accepting an invitation to have drinks at their charming apartment in the center of town! Since Dave is planning to possibly retire there one day, it was a convenient meeting and the makings of a new friendship!

Unfortunately for me, despite the wonderful company, I had to bid my adieu to my old friend Dave and our new friends to make my train back to Lisbon. Missing out on dinner with this amazing group was unfortunate, but dinner plans with some of my crewmembers was approaching.

Now that I know how beautiful Cascais is, however, I will most definitely be making my way there again in the future…especially when Dave will be there! It pays to have friends in foreign places!

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5th of October Square

https://lisbonportugal.ca/coast/cascais-town-hall.html
Address: Praca 5 de Outubro, 2750-642, Cascais
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção

https://paroquiaassuncao.org.br/
Address: Tv. Navegantes 16, 2750-444, Cascais, Portugal
Hours: unverified
Admission: free

Citadel of Cascais

Address: Avenida D. Carlos I, Cascais, 2750-642
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1800. Guided tours from Wednesdays to Sundays at 1200.
Admission: €4.00

Chapel São Sabastião

Address 2750-642, Cascais, Portugal
Hours: not open to the public except for religious services on Sundays
Admission: free

Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães

https://bairrodosmuseus.cascais.pt/list/museu/museu-condes-de-castro-guimaraes/
Address: Avª. Rei Humberto II de Itália, 2750-319 Cascais
Hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1700.
Admission: €5.00, Cascais Cultural Center/House of Stories Paula Rego/Santa Maria House/Lighthouse Santa Marta Museum. €4.00, Condes Castro Guimarães Museum.€3.00, King D. Carlos Sea Museum/Museum of Portuguese Music/Fort of S. Jorge de Oitavos. €1.00, Casa Duarte Pinto Coelho. Daily ticket to visit all facilities valid for 1 day, €13.00. Senior tickets, students and Cascais residents, 50% discount on the entrance ticket. Free first Sunday of each month.

Santa Maria Lighthouse Museum

https://www.visitlisboa.com/en/places/santa-marta-lighthouse-museum
Address: Rua do Farol de Santa Marta, 2750-341Cascais
Hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1700.
Admission: €5.00 and includes admission to Casa Santa Mara

Boca do Inferno

Address: Avenida Redi Humberto II de Italia 642, 2750-642 Cascais, Portugal
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Noble Tombs of Verona

The Scaliger family (also known as Della Scala or Saligieri) of Verona was an influential one from the 13th to 14th century, ruling during this time period.

The family rose to prominence during the 11th century with their founder, Masstino I della Scala becoming the chief magistrate after the defeat and death of Ezzelino da Romano, a tyrant of Verona, in 1277. Succeeded by his brother Alberto and subsequently by Alberto’s son, Bartolomeo, it was during the latter’s reign that, according to tradition, Romeo and Juliet fell in love and died.

With such prestige in life, it is expected that in death, the members of this family would also be celebrated and entombed extravagantly so that others could pay homage for many centuries.

In many cultures, cemeteries exist so that the living can pay their respects to the dead. The Italian one is no exception, however, while some gravesites that Americans are familiar with are simple headstones, prominent families in Italy are entombed in elaborate mausoleums. These mausoleums of the Scaligeri are fine examples of the artistic talents put to use to show the wealth and power that the family held.

In Verona, the Scaliger tombs stand in the courtyard of the Church of Santa Maria Antica, which dates to 1185. While I was not sure what I was enroute to see, after spotting it on Google Maps a few blocks from Juliet’s House, it was certainly a landmark that I was glad that I had sought out. To say that the Scaliger tombs are elaborate would be an understatement!

Enclosed by an iron fence, it is easy for passersby to examine the tombs from afar. I assure you, however, it is worth the minimal entrance fee to enter the premises and see these monumental burial chambers up close and personal.

*Entrance to the Scaligeri Tombs (doorway, left) and Santa Maria Antica (doorway, right)*

Adjacent to the Piazza dei Signori, the historic central square of Verona’s Città Antica and other major attractions, the memorials invite visitors to understand the idea of the wealth and power of the Lords of Verona. While the funerary monuments are not plentiful, they are indeed breathtaking examples of Gothic art.

A handout, given to me by caretakers who also accepted my entrance fee, directed me around the small courtyard and I inspected each of the tombs which are located on the ground or on raised floors.

The tomb of Cangrande I Della Scala is placed above the portal of the church and is the first of the tombs that was built in the 14th century by his own will. The tomb is comprised of a tabernacle supported by embellished dogs and on the lid is the reclining statue of the deceased. The sides are decorated and on the top of the canopy, there is a copy of the equestrian statue of Cangrande I (the original is kept in the Castelvecchio Museum along with the funerary equipment).

The ark of Mastino II, which was begun in 1345, had many design changes over the years. Originally painted and gilded, it is surrounded by a gate at the corners of which there are four statues of the Virtues. On the lid, there is a statue of Mastino II lying down and being watched over by two angels. There is an equestrian statue of Mastino II, a copy, of which the original being located in the Castelvecchio clock tower.

The ark of Cansignorio, which dates back to 1375, is the most elaborately decorated. Designed by Bonino da Campione, it depicts sculptures of warrior saints, characters from the Gospels, Virtues and Apostles and a large equestrian statue of Cansignorio.

The sarcophagus of Albert I is a richly carved monument, constructed in 1301.

The tomb of Mastino I is the oldest.

The hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala is a work by Andriolo de Santi. It was finished in 1359 at the church of S. Fermo Maggiore, where it remained until 1400.

This sarcophogi is the most ornamented in the lot. It was possibly commissioned by Alberto I in 1300 and might have been the first burial site for Cangrande.

**Possibly the first burial site of Cangrande**

After my inspection of the tombs was complete, I found the Church of Santa Maria Antica to be open on this day. This small church was originally linked with a convent founded in 744-745. In the 1200s, it became the private chapel of the Scaligeri family who then erected their famous sepulchre alongside the structure.

Wandering in, I donned a shoulder covering given to me by one of the volunteers. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before departing.

There were many places that I visited on my brief trip to Verona. It was interesting to realize, in retrospect, that so many of the places I had visited, had connections to the others. The Castelvecchio Museum contained some of original pieces of the Scaligeri tombs, which I had unknowingly inspected on my visit there earlier in the day, and later on, I had visited San Fermo Maggiore church which had held the hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala for many years. I had not known all of this prior to my visit, but only later, when doing some research.

While not a lengthy visit, take a few minutes to visit the Scaligeri tombs to comprehend the beauty and history of these funerary monuments and seek out their significance in the other landmarks of Verona.

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Scaliger Tombs

Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: €3 (unverified)

Juliet, Oh Juliet…

A visit to Verona is not complete until you visit the place immortalized in William Shakespeare’s tragic romance, Romeo and Juliet.

Well…

While tourists flock to the place labeled, “Juliet’s House”, pose with Juliet’s statue and stand on the balcony that they envision her to have used while declaring her love for Romeo, many forget that Romeo and Juliet only ever existed on the pages of some very well known literature.

Shakespeare’s fateful love story, first published in 1597, was preceded by Arthur Brooke’s poem, The Tragicall Historye of Romeus and Juliet, (1562), which in turn was inspired by older Italian writers, including Luigi de Porto and Matteo Bandello, who told the story of Romeo and Giuletta and the feud between their families. But, so enthralled by the literary tales, centuries of readers took to heart the story, some forgetting that it wasn’t actually based on real characters.

Seventy years ago, Antonio Avena, the director of the city’s museums, wanted to capitalize on that misunderstanding. He transformed the 13th century property of the Dal Cappello family into the home of the imaginary Juliet, after the house was purchased by the City of Verona. The idea was to give a physical location to the fictional story and a boost to Verona’s tourist industry. Extensive restoration of the home was eventually completed with a balcony, similar to that described in Shakespeare’s tale, added in the 20th century.

When tourists learned of this location and subsequently, the name of the original owners, the Cappellos, more commonly known as the Cappellettis, the natural progression was to associate that name with the last name of their heroine, Capuleti, leading them to believe that this really had been Juliet’s house. Flocking to the house in droves, they hoped to feel the emotions of Juliet and see the place that she called home.

As a visitor to Verona, while there was so much to see and do, I did make it a point to visit Juliet’s House since it is such a popular attraction. Approaching the courtyard through the entranceway, I was greeted by a large crowd gathered under the balcony and surrounding a statue of Juliet, by sculptor Nereo Costantini. Many people were awaiting their turn to pose with and rub their hand over the statue’s right breast…a gesture which is supposed to bring love and fertility. It is not known why this custom started, but in order to preserve the original, the courtyard statue was moved into the museum for safekeeping and replaced with a copy.

Paying my entrance fee, I made my way through the museum space, both upstairs and down. Of course I took my turn on the balcony, posing for a photograph and spotted the original statue of Juliet, protected and well away from prying hands.

The house has been restored and appointed much as it would have appeared during the time period in which the Dal Cappellos resided there, though there is no evidence of anything in the house that belonged to the family. There are, however, many references to the Romeo and Juliet story…a bust of William Shakespeare, copies of the story, Renaissance-era costumes and the actual bed used in Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film adaptation of the story. The rest of the furnishings and furniture are all genuine antiques from the 16th and 17th century.

Actual bed used in Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film adaptation of the story.

After my tour of the house was complete, I stepped back into the courtyard and noticed the red post box. Tourists used to leave letters tucked into the wall or stuck onto the bricks with chewing gum below the balcony, however, this practice was discouraged and the use of the box promoted. A movie I once viewed, Letters to Juliet, detailed an American tourist who finds an unanswered love letter shoved among the bricks. The story details the search for the intended recipient and the love story that results from it! These letters and those received from the mail do not go unanswered, however. Much like in the movie, a group of volunteers known as Club di Giulietta (the Juliet Club), replies to the more than 10,000 letters received annually, signing the responses, Juliet’s Secretary. Noticing through the small clear window on the front of the box, many letters that had already accumulated, I was glad to see that the tradition still continues.

With a quick glance around the museum’s gift shop, I found myself at the end of my tour. Stepping out of the gift shop with the intent to continue my day in Verona, I stopped and quickly stepped back inside. After a bit of searching, I purchased a pen and some paper, deciding that one day, I will use it to write a love letter to my own “Romeo”.

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Juliet’s House

https://www.italy-museum.com/venice/juliet-house
Address: Via Cappello, 23, 37121, Verona, Italy
Hours: Tuesdays through Sundays, 0900-1800. Mondays, 1330-1800.
Admission: Adults, €11,60, Children (ages 8-14), €2,10, Children (under 8 years), €1,00

Vibrant Verona

While visiting Venice is an amazing experience, after having been there many times, one gets the itch to see other cities in the region. Having already taken the train to Padua a few years prior, I was planning on seeing some other nearby cities. On this particular day, however, realizing that we had arrived a little earlier than normal, I decided to venture out a little further…to Verona.

Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, situated on the Adige River and known as the setting for two of William Shakespeare’s plays, Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Because of its artistic heritage and opera season staged in its Roman amphitheater, it attracts millions of visitors each year.

Ruled by the della Scala family during the 13th and 14th century, the city was extremely prosperous during their reign and this wealth can be spied throughout its boundaries today; in its monuments, walls and architecture and more. While I was aware that many tourists head straight to Juliet’s House and Museum, one of the most famous places in the city, I decided to do this as well, but also to see the other aspects that make this UNESCO World Heritage Site so special.

After the hour and ten minute train ride, I quickly ducked into a station shop to purchase a face mask for the return trip or for any other attraction which might require it. During my train ride, I had realized that KN95 face masks were still required on public transportation when conductors removed five British travelers at the stop prior to Verona’s Porta Nuova station. While I had a regular surgical mask, I realized that it was not enough and was thankful that I went unnoticed.

Thankful that crisis had been averted, I set out to walk to the city center, first stopping at the Porta Nuova (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=30718), the city’s old gate. Stopping for a few photos, I then continued on Corso Porta Nuova past Giardini Pradaval and its sculptures and statues, the Lapidary Museum Maffeiano and I Portoni della Bra the historic gate that once divided the city from the countryside and connects the Porta Nuova railway station to Piazza Bra. While I felt welcomed by the city gate Porta Nuova, it was when I walked through the arches of I Portoni della Bra that I felt as though I was truly entering the city and readied myself for the city’s beauty.

Having planned to see the amphitheater, I decided to take a detour and walk toward the river and the Castelvecchio Museum, since its opening hours were fewer. Making my way across its intimidating drawbridge into the courtyard, I then headed inside to make my way through its major Italian art collections distributed over twenty-nine rooms. Sculpture, paintings, ancient weapons, ceramics, goldsmiths, miniatures and ancient city bells were artfully displayed throughout the castle which dates back to the mid 1300s. While it was built as a residence for the della Scala family, it was mainly used for the military defense of the city and that is evident by its towering walls and battlements.

While I enjoyed my walk through the castle’s interior, what I really wanted to do was investigate the courtyards, the battlements and the clock tower. Climbing up the stairway, I made my way first to the rear of the castle and was rewarded with stunning views of the river and the Scaligero Bridge. It was a beautiful day and being out on the walls was the perfect place to be! Some of the passageways were a bit narrow but easy to navigate and to reach the seven towers. From the front of the castle, the views of the city, the large courtyard, the clock tower and the small courtyard beneath the tower were so stunning that I could have stayed up there all day. Finally, I passed through the adjacent walkway to the bridge and took a quick stroll across so that I could say “I did”.

If I was going to see everything, however, it was time to move on and I decided to continue my path along the Corso Cavour, which follows the river. A short stroll later, I passed the Arco dei Gavi, a massive, ancient white-marble arch which was was used as a gate in the walls during the Middle Ages. During the Napoleonic rule, French engineers demolished it and its ruins were moved to a square and then to the arena. In 1932, the arch was reconstructed, under Mussolini’s rule, in its current spot next to the Castelvecchio, very near its original location.

A little further down the road, I happened upon the Basilica di San Lorenzo. As I always make time for a church, I spent a few moments walking through this 12th structure. Built in the Romanesque style on the remains of a 5th or 6th century paleo-Christian building, using some of the original materials, it was interesting to see the two different types of building materials stemming from the different phases of construction…alternating brick and stone which gives the interior a striking pattern of strips in the columns and the walls and apse. Listening in to a tour guide’s spiel, I also learned that a unique feature is the presence of the women’s galleries, still intact and open onto three sides. Though my stop was a quick one, I was glad to see this beautiful church.

Near the Ponte della Vittoria, I decided to move into the city center as there was more to see in that domain. A few minutes later, I passed under the impressive Porta Borsari, the arched limestone gate, which dates back to the 1st century and served as the main entrance to the city.

There were many more churches, including the Church of St. Eufemia; some open, some closed for the afternoon, and as I spied many balconies, I thought of Juliet’s House, which I had planned to visit…whenever I got there! But of course, there was so much to see along the way!

Glancing at my watch, I decided to snatch a few moments at the Church of San Giovanni in Foro. A minor church, it was built on what was the main Roman road. Badly damaged by fire in 1172, while much of Verona was destroyed, its restoration in the early 1900s led to the discovery that Roman walls had been incorporated into the external walls of the church. It was small and dimly lit, but its beautiful mosaics, stone walls and ancient paintings made me glad that I had stumbled upon this gem.

Continuing on, I finally made my way to the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the center of the city’s political and economic life. There were many market stalls hawking souvenirs and food, but there were lots of statues, fountains and other landmarks to see. More importantly, the square is surrounded by many buildings and monuments that have marked the history of Verona…City Hall, Lamberti Tower, the Houses of Mazzanti, Maffei Palace, the Gardello Tower and the Casa dei Mercanti (Merchant’s House). What I loved most, however, was the ancient fountain (circa 1368) with its roman statue, Madonna Verona, built by Bonino da Campione, which stands proudly in the center of the square and welcomes visitors to investigate its history.

My goodness…what wasn’t there to see? I love everything about Rome and its “in your face architecture”, but the simplicity of Verona with the minor details that begged you to slow down and savor it was unlike anything I had ever experienced in Italy. Everywhere I laid my eyes, there was stunning construction, architectural details on every building, including balconies upon which other Italian ladies, like the fictional Juliet, may have stood, conversing down to their young paramours.

Finding my way to the Scaliger Tombs, I decided that I needed to enter the premises so that I could see these stunning tombs at close range. After paying my entrance fee, I was given a handout to guide me through the small courtyard. Each of the elaborate tombs were unique and some just outright ostentatious. While passerby could get a glimpse through the iron bars of all of the tombs, I thought it much better to see their beauty unobstructed.

These five funerary monuments celebrate the Scaliger family who ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century. Located in a wrought-iron fenced enclosure of the church of Santa Maria Antica, these Gothic tombs were constructed for the wealthy members of the noble Scaliger dynasty who ruled as the Lords of Verona; Cangrande I, Mastino II, Cansignorio, Alberto II and Giovanni.

The church was open and I was given a covering for my shoulders as I entered. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before leaving.

Finally, next on the list was the famed Juliet’s House, a short walk away. As expected, after walking through the short corridor to the courtyard, I found it extremely crowded with other visitors. Everyone was jockeying for position and waiting for their chance to pose with the bronze statue of Juliet. Noting the balcony above, and those also posing there for photographs, I figured out which door to enter to pay my admission.

Inside, there were statues paying homage to Shakespeare, another bronze statue of Juliet, period furniture and the bed and Renaissance costumes from Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film version of Romeo and Juliet. The wooden floors and artfully decorated ceilings were extremely cozy, although very roomy, depicting the wealth of the Capello family (from which the name Capulet was derived). Eventually, I was able to step out onto the balcony and also pose for a photo, but I was interested to find that even though the house dates back to 13th century, the balcony was only added during the 20th century.

On my way out, I noticed the red mailbox, which collects the letters “to Juliet” from visitors. Remembering the 2010 movie Letters to Juliet, I smiled at the messages visible in the small window in the center, glancing around, wondering where the women who volunteer to answer them were.

Just up the road, I happened upon Porta Leoni, the ancient gate that was built during the Roman Republic and features a double façade and two towers. Adjacent, below the street level are amazing Roman excavations.

The afternoon was dwindling away and although I had seen so much during my afternoon visit to Verona, I still wanted to see the amphitheater. Deciding to walk along the river in order to make navigation back to Corso Porta Nuova a little easier, I was stopped in my tracks by an imposing church on the corner.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore.

Oh, I was here and I couldn’t resist, so I went in, hoping I had enough time for everything else on my list…namely the amphitheater. The church was still open and I paid my admission, following the handout offered to me, which guided me to both the Upper and Lower churches.

Starting with the Lower church, I traversed the ancient staircase to reach the first and oldest cloister of the complex. Here, I marveled at the decorated ribbed vaults and frescoed columns which divided the space. Of particular note was the early 14th century fresco depicting the Virgin seated on a throne with baby Jesus and a 12th century fresco of the Baptism of Jesus. There is a tombstone of jurist Antonio Pelacani, who died in 1327, showing him teaching his students and another of scholar Master Omobono, built in 1330. In the presbytery, there is a wooden crucifix from the 14th century and in the right transept, the stone upon which saints Fermo and Rustico were beheaded.

Back upstairs in the Upper church, I found it to be a massive and towering space. Again, crumbling frescoes decorated the walls and a large wooden door was topped with a fresco of the Crucifixion of Christ. The single nave church contained five apses and of particular interest was the Della Torre altar, from the 18th century, Our Lady’s Chapel (1613), which contains a some significant paintings and the presbytery with its marble altar, created by Schiavi, on which the relics of Saints Fermo and Rustico are kept.

There were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel. Upper ChurchThere were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel.

Sadly, I had saved the amphitheater for last and it was not meant to be.

This time…

With so much to see in Verona, I was impressed with what I had undertaken and experience in a single afternoon. As there is much more enjoy in Verona, I realized that I would definitely return in the near future.

Pulling my KN95 mask from my bag…it was time to make that train.

.For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castelvecchio Museum

https://museodicastelvecchio.comune.verona.it/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=42545
Address: Corso Castelvecchio, 2, Verona, Italy
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000 to1800. Last entrance at 1715. Closed Mondays, December 24, January 1.
Admission: Adults, €6.00 (+ €.60 online presale), Children (ages 8-14 years), €1.00 (+€.10 online presale). Free admission for residents of 65 years in the Municipality of Verona, persons with disabilities and their companion, children up to 7 years, holders of the VeronaCard.

Arco dei Gavi

https://www.verona.in/verona/what-to-see/details/arco-dei-gavi
Address: Corso Cavour, 2, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Basilica di San Lorenzo

https://verona.com/it/verona/chiesa-di-san-lorenzo/
- Address: Corso Cavour, 28, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 0900-1200 and 1500-1700
  - Admission: free

Porta Borsari

Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 57A, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Chiesa di San Giovanni in Foro

Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 20, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: hours unknown
Admission: free

Piazza delle Erbe

https://verona.com/en/verona/piazza-delle-erbe/
Address: Piazza delle Erbe, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 0730-2030, daily
Admission: free

Scaliger Tombs

Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: €3 (unverified)

Juliet’s House

https://verona.com/en/verona/casa-di-giulietta/
Address: Via Cappello, 23, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 0900-1900, daily
Admission: Adults, €6

Porta Leoni

Address: Via Leoni, 37100 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours daily
Admission: free

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

https://www.chieseverona.it/it/le-chiese/la-chiesa-di-san-fermo
Address: Corte S. Elena, Piazza Duomo 35, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100-1800, Saturday, 0930-1800, Sunday, 1300-1800
Admission: Single entry €4. Entry to four churches, San Fermo, San Zeno, Cathedral Complex and Santa Anastasia, Basilica of San Zeno, the Cathedral Complex, the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, €8

Welcome to Verona

No matter where you go in Italy, you will find celebrated cities filled with stunning architecture, monumental landmarks and bustling piazzas. Some cities are mere blips on the map and others more well known.

Having stayed in Venice so often and walked its alleys, crossed its bridges and traversed its canals, I felt as though it was time to venture out further and see those nearby cities, a brief train ride away.

On a recent trip, we had arrived in Venice much earlier than usual. Deciding to take advantage of this early morning accession, I checked the train schedules and decided to make the hour long journey to Verona.

Having studied the city’s map, I learned that there was so much to this city than its ties to Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet and I decided that I was going to navigate its streets and landmarks on foot, so that I could take in every detail.

Arriving at the city’s main train station, Porta Nuova, I set out to make my way to Verona’s historical center. Following my GPS’s directions, the first thing I encountered was Porta Nuova… Yes, I had just departed the train station, Porta Nuova, but there was another.

Built between 1532 and 1540, the city gate of Porta Nuova was built under the direction of architect Michele Sanmicheli, replacing the ancient Porta di Santa Croce, with the sideways of the gate being added by the Austrians in 1854.

The gate was constructed to encourage access to the city and I thought it befitting that it was the first thing I encountered when seeking out the historical section of Verona. Only one of two remaining gates in the city, it offered entrance from the south and was an important element of the city’s fortifications.

While, the gates’ arched doorways were barred off, I was able to look inside, through the openings and inspect the surrounding premises. The facade’s details have been restored and the structure is topped with the Italian flags.

The stop at Porta Nuova was not one I had planned, but rather merely encountered on my route to other attractions in the city center. However, it was a beautifully restored and maintained architectural piece of Verona’s past and I was glad that it was there to welcome me as it had done to countless others over the centuries.

If there was more like this to come…I couldn’t wait to see what else was in store!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Porta Nuova

Address: Corso Porta Nuova, 1, 37122 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Marie Antoinette Was Here

On the famed Île de la Cité, visitors are drawn to the magnificent stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle and the medieval French Gothic cathedral, Notre Dame. Yet, another historic structure, La Conciergerie, just next door to Sainte-Chapelle, is often overlooked!

But why? Perhaps the average tourist does not realize the significance of the building situated on the Boulevard du Palais, only wanting to check the boxes of the most famous landmarks in the City of Lights. Or, maybe…they simply do not allocate enough time for a building they may think is only a judicial one…not one that dates back to the 6th century and played an important role in the French Revolution.

Located within a fortified complex on the Île de la Cité, in the Seine River, the impressive medieval palace, was built as an historic Gothic dwelling to house the Kings of France, beginning with King Clovis. In 1200, King Philip II then made the Palais de la Cite the royal seat of power, remaining so until the 14th century. At this time, it then took on a judicial role as the Kings of France vacated to settle in at the Louvre and Chateau du Vincennes. As a Palace of Justice, it saw the addition of prison cells and became a royal prison, chancellery and seat of Parliament.

During the French Revolution of 1789 and the period of “The Terror” (1793-1795), the palace held and tried many political prisoners, but it is one that it is most famous for. It was in La Conciergerie that the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette was detained in captivity until her execution, along with 2700 others.

Marie Antoinette’s fate, a guillotined beheading, was similar to most prisoners who spent time at the converted cells within the palace walls. The word “conciergerie” is a French term meaning, “lodging of a housekeeper” as it was looked after by the person left in charge of the palace in the absence of the King and was known as one of the worst prisons of the period. Very few prisoners made it out alive, succumbing to illness, neglect or the blade of the guillotine.

While a majority of La Conciergerie’s square footage is dedicated to courthouses and administrative buildings, a most important historical part is open to the general public and has been transformed into a museum.

Having purchased a combination ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, we proceeded directly to the entry point on Boulevard du Palais once our tour of the holy chapel was complete. Since La Conciergerie still operates as a government building, we were guided through a security complex so that we and our belongings could be searched and run through metal detectors before being allowed access to the premises.

Since there are no guided tours, we were given a small tablet to aid in our navigation of the premises. As we entered the museum, we first moved through the Grande Salle (Great Hall), a palatial space reminiscent of its royal status as home to the kings and then on to the lower level, La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall). This massive space once served as an enormous dining room for palace workers and accommodated royal banquets and other formal occasions within its impressive 210 foot long area, divided by grand columns and vaulted 28 foot ceilings.

*La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall)*

The corridor of cells allowed for the understanding of the former prisoners’ living conditions. These dark and narrow cells with no furnishings, were not a place of luxury. While we gazed upon clean floors and felt the neutral climate from modern heating and air conditioning, it was certain that this place was once overrun with rats and other vermin and that prisoners suffered from both heat and cold and slept on the floor. By stark contrast, we were also privy to the small prison warden offices, complete with period furniture and more conveniences as well as the cells outfitted for wealthier prisoners.

A mural that shows the names of some individuals victimized by the Reign of Terror and imprisoned or tried at the Conciergerie. Their names are printed in different colors depending on their punishments, with those executed by guillotine shown in red. Other plaques and historical displays throughout the museum portion of the visit recount the history of the Revolution and the Reign of Terror, led by the infamous Robespierre.

Finally, we traversed the stairs to the site of the cell of Marie Antoinette. The queen was held in this cell during the final two months of her life during the Reign of Terror. Here, the sanctuary, Girodins’ Chapel, was originally a place of worship that was then converted to a collective cell during the Revolution. After the Revolution, the “Expiatory Chapel” was built to atone for the queen’s execution and pay tribute to her and other royal figures executed during that time period. Nestled in the back of the chapel, there is a shrine covered with black walls, covered in silver tears. Located at the supposed site of the queen’s bed, a faux marble altar is decorated with a text to honor her memory and the last letter from Marie-Antoinette to her sister-in-law, Madame Elisabeth. Period furnishings show how her cell may have been decorated as in contrast to the less wealthy prisoners; she was given a bed, furniture and servants. A detailed reconstruction of her cell is available for inspection.

*Re-creation of Marie Antoinette’s cell*

Just outside of Girodins’ Chapel is the garden in the women’s courtyard. Here, female prisoners were allowed to wash their clothes in the fountain, walk around, and eat outside, a nice perk not afforded to the male prisoners.

La Conciergerie is not a large museum but an important one and we completed our tour in a short time span. If you find time to traverse the Île de la Cité or visit Notre Dame (when reopened) or Sainte-Chapelle, take an extra hour to tour this interesting piece of Paris’ significant history. It may not have the views of the Eiffel Tower or the artwork of the Louvre, but it will give an understanding of the French Revolution and Marie Antoinette’s last days. While it is not the only site where you might see an actual guillotine blade, it might be the one worth remembering.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

La Conciergerie

Address: 2 Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris
Hours: 0930-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and May 1.
Admission: Adults, €11.50 (US$ 12.60), Under 18 years and EU Citizens (18 – 25 years old), free entry, Persons with reduced mobility and accompanying person, free entry. Free entry with Paris Pass and Paris Museum Pass. Free entry on the first Sunday of the month from November to March. Combined ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, €18.50
Getting There: Metro, Cité, line 4. Bus, lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81 and 85.

The Holy Chapel

Visiting Paris with my, then 13 year-old son, many years ago, we had mentally prepared a list of things that we wanted to do and experience…the Louvre, Notre Dame, Montmartre, the Sacre Coeur and of course, the Eiffel Tower. Naturally, we hoped to add more to our list as we happened upon it and that’s kind of what happened with Sainte-Chapelle.

While waiting to pay our admission at the Arc de Triomphe, we spotted a poster-style sign on the wall advertising Sainte-Chapelle. I had vaguely heard of it prior to this trip, but it really wasn’t a place that we had allotted time for in our schedule. My son, however, was transfixed with the photo of the vivid stained glass windows and insisted that we could go.

Time was limited, but after our visit to the Arc de Triomphe, we dashed to the Metro and made it to the Île de la Cité with a little time to spare. Securing our entry tickets, we walked into an architectural and chromatic dreamland.

While the Gothic-style itself was mesmerizing, it was those stained-glass windows that had captivated my son and drew us here that took our breath away.

Walking through the Sainte-Chapelle, we admired the vividness of the soaring apertures that fill in the upper walls of the space and the golden accents, comprehensive statues, architectural details, rich colors and brightly lit chandeliers hanging from the vaulted ceiling. Albeit a spontaneous decision, we had made the right one.

Last spring, remembering this experience so fondly and after having toured Chateau de Vincennes’ Sainte-Chapelle earlier in the year, I decided to return while on one of my Parisian layovers.

*The walk across the bridge to the Île de la Cité* *and Saint-Chapelle*

Booking a ticket online, I arrived at my appointed time and made my way through the security checkpoint, through the courtyard and into the royal chapel. Indeed, it was as beautiful as I remembered it.

Constructed around 1238 and consecrated ten years later, this residence of the Kings of France until the 14th century, is considered one of the highest Gothic architectural achievements of its time. Built by King Louis IX of France, to house his collection of Passion relics, including the Crown of Thorns, it is also one of the earliest surviving buildings on the Île de la Cité. Though damaged during the French Revolution, it was restored and contains one of the most extensive 13th century stained glass collections in the world, with over two thirds of its original glass remaining.

While Sainte-Chapelle is no longer a church, having been secularized after the French Revolution, it is still considered a royal chapel inspired by earlier ones in the realm. This one, with its two levels, equal in size, offered a place (upper level) to house the sacred relics and was reserved for the royal family and their guests. The lower level was used by the courtiers, servants and soldiers of the palace. Its large size was comparable to many of the other Gothic cathedrals in France.

As I made my way through the upper chapel, what struck me most, as it did before, was that most of the walls are mostly constructed of pillars and buttresses and the spaces between are almost entirely glass. On a sunny day, the color is almost blinding with so many panes catching the light. On this day, however, it was quite gloomy outside, but even then, the windows showed off their magnificence.

The upper chapel was filled with visitors, all gazing skyward and I followed the walls and windows in order, using the laminated card (available in a variety of languages) to decipher what was each window’s theme…the New Testament (featuring scenes of the Passion, the Infancy of Christ and the Life of John the Evangelist) and the Old Testament (featuring scenes from the Book of Genesis, Exodus, Joseph, Numbers/Leviticus, Joshua/Deuteronomy, Judges, Jeremian/Tobia, Judity/Job, Esther, David and the Book of Kings). Created by three different ateliers you can spot the contrasting styles used in the artist’s creations. And finally, I stood before the great rose window, at the rear of the chapel, created and installed in the late 15th century. This window, is composed of eighty-nine separate panels, representing scenes of the Apocalypse and uses a different technique, giving it a brighter look.

*Upper Chapel, King/Queen Alcove, Middle*

After I had made my way through the crowded space, paying particular attention to the two small alcoves set into the opposite walls where the King and Queen worshipped (King, north side, Queen, south side), I proceeded down the stairway to the lower chapel. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, it was heavily decorated with sculpture, columns, murals and the fleur-de-lis emblem of Louis IX, especially on its vaulted ceiling. Whereas the upper chapel soared to great heights, the lower chapel’s ceiling was only 22 feet high, although, still offering its own beautiful stained glass windows, depicting scenes from the Virgin’s life.

After my exit from the chapel’s interior, I took a few moments, despite the drizzling rain that had begun to fall, to walk around the exterior and admire its Gothic architectural components. Since visiting Notre Dame is currently not possible since its devastating fire in 2019, this is a stunning substitute on the Île de la Cité.

While there are other important “copies” of Sainte-Chapelle throughout the world (Karlstejn Castle, near Prague, Hofburgkapelle, Vienna, Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross and St. Bartholomew, Wroclaw, Poland and Exeter College, Oxford) and you can see some of the early stained glass that was removed at the Musee de Cluny in Paris and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, I can not imagine not seeing this one in person and I was glad for my son’s inquisitiveness and persuasive skills many years ago.

It is truly a masterpiece like no other that should be on the top of every Parisian visitor’s list.

For me, two visits down and many more to come.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Sainte-Chapelle

https://www.sainte-chapelle.fr/en/
Address: Sainte-Chapelle, 10, boulevard du Palais 75001 Paris
Hours: April 1-September 30, 0900-1900, October 1-March 30, 0900-1700. Last admission, 40 minutes before closing. Closed May 1, December 25 and January 1. Visit by confirmed time slot booked online.
Admission: Adult, 11.50€, 18 year old and under, free, 18-25 year old (European Union), free. Combined ticket with Conciergerie, Adult, 18.50€, 18 year old and under, free, 18-25 year old (European Union), free.
Getting There: Metro 4, station Cité, RER B ou C, station Saint-Michel, Métro 1,7,11, 14, station Châtelet. By Bus, Lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81, 85, 96 et Balabus, Stations Vélib’ à proximité.

Markets and Ancient Ports

For many years, it seemed like I visited Tel Aviv almost every month. Over time, however, I have decided to work shorter flights which suit my schedule a little bit better by not having the two night flights that Tel Aviv has.

When someone reached out to me in April, however, and wanted to swap two of my Rome trips for her Tel Aviv, it benefited me to take the swap and have the weekend that I was supposed to work off. Sounded like a good idea…and it was! I was excited to revisit the Mediterranean city to see some favorites and discover some new things!

Despite it being a holiday when we arrived, and finding everything closed, the next day was business as usual. After grabbing some falafel at my favorite place, I decided that I was going to get a lot of steps in, first heading to the Carmel Market.

The largest market in Tel Aviv was first opened in 1920, approximately eleven years after the establishment of the city. Located on one street which runs south from the junction of King George Street, Allenby and Sheinkin Street to the Carmelit Bus depot, it always hosts a bustling crowd, especially on Thursdays and Fridays, when locals are making their purchases for their family meals. Visitors should not be intimidated by the locals going about their business as the market also attracts tourists wishing to experience the sights, sounds and of course smells of the freshest fruit and vegetables, spices and other delectables in addition to those hoping to find unique souvenirs and clothing. I have always loved coming here, usually to purchase my olive oil but just for the overall experience!

On this day, however, I realized my mistake. Wanting to take a walk to the Old City of Jaffa, I could not purchase my olive oil as I would have to backtrack to my hotel to drop it off or carry the heavy purchase on this journey. Assuming I would have time later to return, I proceeded on to the second leg of my adventure.

To get to the Old City of Jaffa, it is about a thirty-seven minute walk and I decided that I would do it along the waterfront to enjoy the sights and smells of the sea. It was a beautiful April day and I was so thankful to be able to have the time to enjoy the lovely sunshine. It wasn’t long before I passed Charles Clore Park and the Haetzel Betashach Museum which focuses on the history of Etzel, the Hebrew acronym for the National Military Organization (one of the military groups who led the struggle for Israel’s independence). Only pausing to take a few photos of the outside of the museum, I continued on my way quickly arriving at landmark which marks the entrance to the ancient port city.

The Jaffa Clocktower.

Standing in the middle of the north end of Yefet Street, the limestone tower incorporates two clocks and a plaque commemorating the Israelis killed in the battle for the town in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War. It is one of seven clock towers built in Ottoman Palestine…only one of six that remain.

There was plenty of unique art and architecture to see along the way, but I was determined to make my way through the HaMuze’on Garden, past the Jaffa Theatre and to the Kdumim Visitor Center Square. St. Peter’s Church was on my list, however, I arrived to realize that I was between opening hours. Since it would require waiting for its reopening in a couple of hours, I decided to spend my time re-exploring the old port and seeking out some things in the nearby area.

Walking through the square, I made my way to the stairs leading through the garden and to the Wishing Bridge. I remember seeing this bridge a long time ago, but I had forgotten its meaning. I read the sign, “An ancient legend holds that anyone boarding the bridge holds the zodiac sign and looks at the sea – their wish will come true.” Naturally, I had lots of wishes, so I walked along the wooden walkway, studying each of the aged bronze zodiac signs that wrapped around its rails. Placing my hand on the Lion, Leo, I looked out to the sea and made my wish…wishes…hopefully it counted for more than one!

*The Wishing Brid*ge (as viewed from below)

Walking through the gardens, I appreciated the lush greenery, beautiful flora and sculptural works that filled the landscape. Eventually, I found the other notable item that I had come to see. The replica of ancient Egyptian Ramesses II gate. Without knowing the background, it seems rather unremarkable (and too new), but as I stood there taking photos, a gentleman asked me me what I knew of it. Such began a conversation with a local tour guide Haim Tamari. Mr. Tamari informed me that this replica supplants the original 13th century gate that was discovered in this spot and dates from the period of the rule of Ramesses II. The inscription on one of the gates includes on of the many honorific titles of Ramesses II. Work had recently been completed on the paved and hardscaped area around the gate.

Mr. Tamari and I walked together back to the square as the hour was approaching of the opening of the church. We talked of the history of the area and of my past visits to many parts of the country. Realizing that I was expecting a visit to St. Peter’s he continued on with his dialogue, expanding to the history of the church. He explained that this church was completed in 1894 but was preceded by another from the 16th century which was constructed as a church and inn for pilgrims on the ruins of an earlier temple. It was constructed here because it was in Jaffa that St. Peter raised Tabitha (one of Jesus’ disciples) from the dead (Acts of the Apostles, Acts 9:36-43, Acts 10:1-4) and it is dedicated to him. The church, facing west toward the sea, instead of east (like most churches) was situated on a hill serving as a beacon to pilgrims, signaling that the Holy Land was near.

Thankful that I now had a knowledgeable contact for future tours, I thanked him for sharing his company, conviviality and knowledge. He continued on to an appointment, bidding me a farewell and I took a seat outside the church’s iron gates, tall, brick façade and towering bell tower.

At three o’clock, the doors were opened and I and others who had also congregated at its opening, were ushered inside. As I made my way past each of the side altars, I took in the overall appearance of the church, with its dominant pastel-colored vaulted ceiling, stained glass and ochre marble walls. Taking a seat in one of the pews, I bent my head in prayer only to be distracted and then mesmerized by the pulpit, carved in the shape of a tree. As a tour group made their way inside, I listened as their leader spoke of its history, including an interesting tidbit about Napoleon, who was said to have lived in one of rooms of St. Louis’ citadel just outside and to the right of the sacristy while he was at St. Peter’s in 1799 during the French campaign in Egypt and Syria.

Finally, my visit to St. Peter’s complete, I exited and made my way through the stairways, alleyways and tunnels of Jaffa toward its port. Walking along the water’s edge, I passed cafes, studios, restaurants and mosques, reminding me that this was a city of more than one faith.

*The Sea Mosque (where the city’s Muslim sailors and fisherman prayed before going to sea)*

After such a long day, it was time to start the long walk back to my hotel. Arriving almost an hour later, with aching feet, I realized that it was time to grab that nap for the dreaded overnight flight home. Reflecting on my cultural and historically filled day, I realized that I had been missing out on the amazing opportunities that Tel Aviv affords for the lack of sleep. Yes, despite the nap I was getting ready to take, it was going to be a long night home…but definitely worth it.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Carmel Market

https://www.touristisrael.com › carmel-market-tel-aviv › 4433
Address: HaCarmel Street 48, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Hours: Summer, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1800), Friday, 0700-afternoon (closing begins two hours before Shabbat comes in). Winter, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1600), Friday, 0700-afternoon (two hours before Shabbat comes in).
Admission: free

Jaffa Clocktower

https://www.jaffaclocktower.com/
Address: Yefet Street 14, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

St. Peter’s Church

https://stpetersjaffa.com/
Address: Tel-Aviv-Yafo, Israel, 1
Hours: Daily, 0900-1145 and 1500-1700
Admission: free

Adventures in New Mexico Part 5-Keeping Our Eyes on the Skies!

Travel in New Mexico can be tedious to say the least.

Long stretches of highway with nothing but desert on either side can make one go almost mad! But, a good travel companion and a decent music playlist can alleviate the monotony and when you’ve got something fun to break up the trip, it makes it all the better!

On our fifth day in New Mexico, we were heading south. Our destination was Carlsbad Caverns but there was a place along the way that we just had to visit…Roswell. If you believe that we are not alone in this universe, then Roswell is a must see destination!

Leaving Santa Fe a little after seven allowed us to arrive mid morning with a plan of touring the International UFO Museum and Research Center and having lunch. Having to get to Carlsbad, an additional hour and a half from Roswell, around dinner time was the plan so with a departure from Roswell around 2:30ish, we would have plenty of time to see what else the state’s fifth largest city would offer.

As expected, the three hour drive was a little tedious but we were soon pulling up next to the green Welcome to Roswell sign signaling our arrival at the UFO Capital of the World. Driving down the small town’s main street area, we soon found the museum and something out of this world…almost as if they had expected us, there was a parking space right in front of the UFO museum!

For those not aware of Roswell’s UFO affiliations, it began in 1947, when rancher W.W. “Mack” Brazel discovered metal debris near a giant trench spanning hundreds of feet. After reporting the find, the military descended upon the area, closing it to the public and later stated that the incident was merely the “crashing of a military balloon” despite an Army press release initially stating that a “flying disc” had been recovered. The statement was quickly retracted leading to speculation of a military cover-up.

During the 1970s, the incident was reintroduced to the public when retired lieutenant colonel Jesse Marcel, admitted to Ufologist Stanton Friedman that he believed the debris he retrieved was extraterrestrial. This admission sparked considerable conspiracy theories claiming that multiple spacecraft had crash-landed on the Brazel ranch and their alien occupants were recovered by the military.

Though nothing has ever been proven or disproven, the events have forever marked Roswell as a UFO hotspot and the incident continues to spark interest, especially with the recent admission by the government of their cognizance of aircraft and military interactions with spacecraft. The Roswell incident has been described as “the world’s most famous, most exhaustively investigated and most thoroughly debunked UFO claim.

The museum contains a vast collection of written, audio and visual information relating to the 1947 Roswell Incident and other unexplained phenomena associated with UFO research. Located in a former movie theater, the large open space’s exhibits routed us through the timeline of the incident with models scattered throughout. Our favorite? The giant metal disk fronted with three silver aliens in the center of the museum! There was much to absorb during our visit and we had to be content with relying on the short movie at the onset to acclimate us with the storyline and skim through the remainder of the information, however, we learned enough to make our visit worthwhile.

*International UFO Museum and Research Center*

After our visit was complete, we decided to keep our primo parking space and walk throughout the small downtown area. Now lunchtime, we were seeking out a place to eat and discovered that everything and every place of business in Roswell seemed to capitalize on the UFO phenomenon including a spaceship themed McDonalds!

Little silver aliens greeted us as we made our way inside the disc-shaped restaurant, but standard McDonald’s culinary fare prevailed. I think we had expected Alien Big Macs and Flying Saucer Fries, but the regularly titled sustenance did the trick. While the dark nighttime skies were many hours away, it would have been fun to see this unique McDonald’s lit up with red neon highlighting the spaceship!

After our lunch was complete we continued to investigate the downtown area, reveling in the giant alien next door holding the Dunkin Donuts sign, the alien waving a Domino’s Pizza flag and all of the murals and UFO paraphernalia throughout the city. Everyone was in on the action!

And of course we needed souvenirs! There was definitely no short supply of stores hawking everything from t-shirts to coozies to stickers to…everything you can thing of relating to aliens! While we visited many shops, including Invasion Station, we found some of the best prices at Walmart, no doubt not wanting to be left out of the mix.

*Fun attractions in souvenir stores and on Main Street*

We decided to take a peek into the Roswell Visitor’s Center adjacent to Pioneer Square, to obtain any pertinent information that we may had missed. Located across from the beautiful architecture of the Chavez Country Magistrate Court, we learned of the UFO Fest held every summer which includes immersive experiences, live music, local food, photo ops and many other family friendly events throughout the city. The best part of our visit, however, was the photo opportunity the Visitor Center offers. A set with two small aliens and a BELIEVE sign beckons visitors for a portrait, which the staff takes and emails to you for free.

Finally, we stopped in to Spaceport Roswell, a virtual reality experience. Given VR headsets, we were ushered into a small spaceship-themed room where we donned the headsets and watched a version of the Roswell Incident story unfold in almost-life-like reality. A fun way to end our time in Roswell, we enjoyed the experience and headed back to our parking space readying ourselves the completion of our day’s journey.

Pulling out of Roswell, I must admit…I almost wished that we would have had the time built into our schedule to spend the night in this fabled town so that we could do a bit of UFO watching. It would have definitely been the perfect place to have a Close Encounter of the First Kind! Casting our eyes above the long highway and seeing nothing but sun and sand, we began our drive to Carlsbad, ready for the next adventure.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

International UFO Museum and Research Center

https://www.roswellufomuseum.com/
Address: 114 N Main Street, Roswell, New Mexico 88203
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Adults, $7.00, Children (ages 5-15), $5.00, Children (under 5), free, Seniors, Military, First Responders, $5.00

McDonalds

https://www.mcdonalds.com/us/en-us/location/nm/roswell/1804-s-main-st/8084.html
Address: 720 N. Main Street, Roswell, New Mexico 88201
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0500-2300, Saturday and Sunday, 0500-midnight

Spaceport Roswell

https://spaceportroswellnm.com/
Address: 121 E. 2nd Street, Roswell, New Mexico 88201
Hours: Monday-Thursday, 0900-1700, Friday-Sunday, 0900-1800
Admission: Adults, $14.50, Children (ages 12 and under), $9.50, Seniors (65+) and Veterans, $12.50

Adventures in New Mexico Part 3-The Cat’s Meow

What’s the saying…when something is very appealing?

It’s the Cat’s Meow!

With all there is experience in New Mexico, I can say that phrase it is most appropriate.

After the long drive to Chaco Canyon, you would thing that we would have wanted to sleep in on the next morning. No way! There was too much to see and do and then, we needed to get to Santa Fe!

Rising early, we packed up, check out and headed to Petroglyph National Monument, one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America. Since there are four different trail systems, we chose the trail that appeared to offer the most petroglyph viewing, Piedras Marcadas Canyon. Parking in the adjacent lot, we grabbed out water and headed out onto the trail.

*Petroglyph National Monument, Piedras Marcadas Canyon Trail*

The path was easy and flat, marked with guide lines on either side, to keep hikers off of the fragile desert growth. Before long, we found ourselves alongside the rocky hills that arose from the desert floor. It took a few moments to decipher what we were supposed to be looking for but we soon began to spot the images carved into the rocks.

The petroglyphs we spied were created by the ancestors of modern Pueblo people as far back as the year 1300, by carefully removing the desert varnish with hand-held stone tools to expose the lighter color of the basalt’s interior. Centuries of weathering cause the older petroglyphs to oxidize and darken. As we now knew what to look for, it soon became easier to spot the various human figures, animals and geometric designs along the one and a half mile route.

*Roadrunner petroglyph and real roadrunner perched on the rocks*

All in all, we spent about an hour and a half out and about before completing the circuit. Deciding that there was not enough time to do another trail, we moved on.

Next up was Old Town Albuquerque.

The downtown area is comprised of approximately 150 individually owned and operated businesses, situated around the main plaza, the square and birthplace of the city in 1706. This plaza reminded me so much of the ones found in many Latin American countries with numerous people lounging on the benches around the gazebo. With so many shops, restaurants and galleries in the immediate area, we took our time doing a little shopping, grabbing a bite to eat and taking lots of photos.

One of the places I wanted to see most was San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church, one of the oldest surviving buildings in the city and the only building in Old Town dating back to the Spanish colonial period. The current church replaced the original which collapsed during the winter of 1972. I would imagine the interior exhibited European qualities, but sadly it nor the museum were not open during our visit.

San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church

Keeping an eye on the clock as we were heading to Santa Fe, we found one more place of interest, the Breaking Bad Store ABQ. Although I had no knowledge of the television series, I thought that maybe there would be some interesting souvenirs for my sons. What we discovered, however, was that this was not only a store, but a small museum of sorts dedicated to the series Breaking Bad and its follow up, Better Call Saul. While most of it didn’t resound with me, it meant a lot for my son to see mementos and set props from the show. Recently, when my husband and I finally watched all five seasons of the series, it was fun to pull out the photos and understand what all of it meant. My favorite photo? Me dressed in the Los Pollos Hermanos uniform posed behind the restaurant counter!

With our time in Albuquerque coming to a close, we headed out to the highway, making our way to Santa Fe.

When my son had mentioned to his friends that we would be visiting New Mexico, the unanimous suggestion was to visit a place with a very strange name…Meow Wolf.

Meow Wolf, a relatively new experience in Santa Fe (established in 2016) is one of three similar interactive experiences located in the United States. Along with the other two, in Denver and Las Vegas, the explorable art encounter beckons visitors to explore rooms of immersive art. Santa Fe’s version, entitled House of Eternal Return offers 70 rooms which I could only describe as a mix between an art exhibit, escape room, a fun house and a maze.

As we parked, we glimpsed what we thought we might experience with its giant metal spider, robot and of course, wolf, in the parking lot! Although we had not purchased tickets prior to our arrival, we learned that we were lucky since it was a weekday that we were able to gain entry, not usual on busy weekends.

We began our explorations in the front part of the House, trying to read every piece of paper and attempting to decipher clues. There was a strangely dressed man standing in the stairway talking about missing children and we deduced that children from the storyline were missing. We also heard other speaking about finding hamsters. We did discover a few hidden in various places, but then we never quite understood what to do with this information.

Finally, we just decided to have fun and explore all the nooks and crannies. Once we relaxed about the whole affair, it was a great deal of fun just enjoying the unique and unusual artistry.

It was great fun to discover hidden passageways in refrigerators, fireplaces closets and clothes dryers. After exploring both floors of the house, we discovered in the living room a fish tank on a shelf and then a tunnel through the fireplace which led to a life size fish tank which we could walk through! This led to other parts of the exhibit where we encountered a giant neon dinosaur skeleton whose bones made music when you hit upon them, a forest with giant mushrooms and creatures that appeared to be out of the book Where the Wild Things Are, the crazy clown room decorated with recycled bottle caps, cans, compact discs and clown videos, a Chinatown alleyway and the “black and white room” complete with a monster under the sink! There was abstract art and abstract rooms, interactive games hidden away in dark corners and an EDM music room. There was a band playing in the back and walkways overlooking their stage. Everything was dark and bright at the same time and neon and black lighting was everywhere!

It is one of the hardest things to explain and one of the most unique places I have ever visited! I will definitely have to visit the ones in Denver and Las Vegas which are differently themed.

We realized that if this was our introduction to Santa Fe, we were in for a treat! Meow Wolf was definitely the Cat’s Meow or maybe you could say, the “Wolf’s Meow”!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Petroglyph National Monument

https://www.nps.gov/petr/index.htm
Address: Visitor’s Center, 6510 Western Trail, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Boca Negra Canyon, Atrisco Drive, NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120, Rinconada Canyon, 7601 St. Josephs Avenue, Albuquerque, NM 87120, 87114 Unnamed Cul de Sac, Albuquerque, NM 87120, Piedras Marcadas,
Address: Visitor’s Center, 6510 Western Trail, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Boca Negra Canyon, Atrisco Drive, NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Rinconada Canyon, 7601 St. Josephs Avenue, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Piedras Marcadas Canyon, 87114 Unnamed Cul de Sac, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Volcanoes Day Use Area, Western Trail NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120.
Hours: Boca Negra Canyon, 0830-1630. Rinconada Canyon 0800-1700. Piedras Marcadas Canyon, Sunrise to Sunset. Volcanoes Day Use Area, 0900-1700.
Admission: free

Old Town Albuquerque

https://www.albuquerqueoldtown.com/
Address: Old Town Road NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104
Hours: Most businesses open Monday-Saturday, 1000-2000, Sunday, 1100-1900. Most restaurants seat until 2100.
Admission: free

San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church

https://sanfelipedeneri.org/
Address: 2005 North Plaza NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104
Hours: 0900-1600, daily (unverified). Gift shop and museum, open from 1000-1630. Museum may not be open due to lack of docents.
Admission: free

The Breaking Bad Store ABQ

https://www.breakingbadstoreabq.com/
Address: 2047 South Plaza Street Northwest, Albuquerque, NM 87104
Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, New Years Day.
Admission: free

Meow Wolf Santa Fe

https://meowwolf.com/visit/santa-fe
Address: 1352 Rufina Circle, Santa Fe, NM 87507
Hours: Sunday, Monday and Thursday, 100-2000, Friday and Saturday, 1000-2200. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Admission: Adults (ages 14 and up), $35, Children (ages 4-13), $20, Children (under 3), free, Seniors (ages 65 and up), $25, Military, $25.