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Taking in the sights of Lisbon takes a lot out of you!
Sometimes you just need a little pick me up…a little dessert to tide you over until dinnertime.
So…where do you go? There are many places throughout Lisbon that you will spot pastel de nata, a Portuguese egg custard tart pastry being sold. If you are in Belém, however, the place to go is Pastéis de Belém.
A popular dessert in other parts of western Europe, Asia and former Portuguese colonies, such as Brazil, Mozambique, Macau, Goa and East Timor, it is most well known as the dessert of choice in Portugal and is sometimes called Pastel de Belém or Pastries of Bethlehem.
A visit to the Monasteiro Jeronimos had brought us to Belém and I had decided that we would check out the dessert shop while we were in the area.
A short walk from the monastery took us to the shop that was established at the beginning of the nineteenth century. At the time, convents and monasteries in the country were shut down due to the Liberal Revolution in 1820. Clergy and laborers were expelled in 1834, so in an attempt to earn a living, someone from the monastery began selling pastries in the nearby general store which soon became extremely popular.
In 1837, the dessert’s productions took place in buildings attached to a sugar refinery which was also attached to the general store. The recipe was kept secret and only passed on to master confectioners who made the pastries away from prying eyes.
Though, at the time, Belém was a little far from Lisbon’s center, the grandeur of the monastery and other nearby attractions attracted visitor’s who then became accustomed to the delicious pastries. Word spread back to Lisbon and Pasteis de Belém was born!
Today, word has not only spread to Lisbon, but throughout the world! As we approached, we noticed a long line waiting to enter the restaurant’s doors alongside the beautiful tile work that advertises the name and year of the establishment. Taking our place in line, we were finally seated about twenty minutes later.
The walls were decorated in the traditional blue and white tiles seen throughout Portugal and the ceiling was embellished with elaborate millwork. There were many tables scattered throughout various rooms, causing the waiters to skillfully slide between them while balancing plates and trays of drinks.
It didn’t take long to place our order or receive it and we learned that the menu not only offered the famous desserts but other tasty treats such as Bolo Inglês, Marmelada, Sortido, Salgados as well as coffees and other drinks.
As expected, everything was delicious but there was not much time to linger and rest. Tables were needed to accommodate those who were now waiting in that very long line!
And we had other things to see in Belém…now that our bellies were full and our sweet tooth was satisfied!
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Pastéis de Belém
- https://pasteisdebelem.pt/en/
- Address: Rua de Belém nº 84 a 92, 1300 – 085 Lisboa, Portugal
- Hours: daily, 0800-2000. Closure at 2200 from June 1 – October 15. On December 24, 25, 31 and January 1, closure at 1900.
- Admission: free, prices for food and drink items vary
- Getting There: Train, Line 19001 from Cais Do Sodre station (7 minutes), Bus from Santos station (15 minutes), Tram, Pç. Figueira to Altinho (19 minutes), Uber (8 minutes).