This morning was an important one and I guess that why I was up at 3:30 am.
It was COVID test day!
It really bothers me that another country will allow me to enter with my vaccine card, yet the country where I received my vaccine requires me to have a COVID test to enter and my vaccine card carries no weight. So, on my trip, I have to spend time and money to get this test in order to return home within 72 hours of departure. With clinics not open on Sundays and only half days on Saturdays, you really have to plan accordingly.
My Airbnb host had told me of a clinic nearby that was charging $50, but thankfully, I asked around and found another about three blocks away that charged $35. They were extremely helpful with my questions during the week and greeted me warmly when they arrived.
Yes, I was the first person in line, thanks to my early awakening!
Watching the early deliveries while waiting for the clinic to open.
Heading back to my apartment after my test, I had breakfast and killed some time before heading back to get my negative result!
It was early and the day was looking to be a beautiful one, so I decided to walk to the Colegio Campania de Jesus (which was closed again) and ended up at the Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales in the Plaza Mayor. It’s a small museum that introduces the colonial life during the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries through paintings, furniture and historical artifacts. There is also an important collection of weapons which gives the museum its title.
Colegio Compania de JesusColegio Compania de JesusView of Volcan Agua from Plaza MayorPlaza Mayor Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales Weapons Exhibit at Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesView from Upper Level of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesWalkway in front of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Across the plaza, I headed to the Museo Los Libros, but found it to be closed. I was very disappointed as I had heard that it has a beautiful interior and an interesting collection of books.
Museo Los Libros
Returning to my apartment (after a few shopping stops), I began the arduous process of packing. How do you fit your numerous purchases into your bags that had already come full? Well, that was a work in progress all day!
After lunch, I headed back out, bound for the southernmost part of town. It was a long walk, but I wanted to see El Calvario church. I had learned of this church and their procession during Semana Santa during my last visit. I don’t think we witnessed their procession, but I remember seeing the church’s location on the map and thinking what a long way they had to travel. Along the street leading to El Calvario, I noticed many small chapels that were numbered with Roman numerals. They were locked, but noticing that they led to the church, I assumed (correctly) that they were Stations of the Cross, with the final one on the church grounds.
Stations of the Cross on the way to El Calvario
El Calvario’s exterior was a bright yellow, very different from others in the city and its grounds were well maintained. Entering the church, I found it to be rather minimalistic with a barrel vault and dual-colored stained-glass windows. I didn’t stay long as I was reprimanded for taking photos. What I did learn later was that the church’s walls were once graced with paintings by 18th century colonial artist Tomás de Merlo, which were taken a few years ago by thieves. These paintings which depicted the Passion of the Christ were valued at approximately $300,000 each and were prized possessions of the church. Sadly, they have not been recovered.
El Calvario ChurchEl Calvario ChurchEl Calvario Church
One of the highlights of a visit to the church is the Esquisúchil tree in the garden which was planted in 1657 by Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt, Central America’s only saint. This tree, with its aromatic flowers is believed to have curative powers.
Statue of Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt and the Esquisúchil tree The Gardens of El Calvario Church
Soon on my way, I passed the ruins of the old El Calvario church and then the church of San Jose de Viejo, which is still in operation and has the appearance of many of the ruined churches.
Ruins of Old El Calvario ChurchThe Church of San Jose de ViejoThe Church of San Jose de Viejo
Finally, I took a less direct route home, enjoyed the different scenery, eventually stopping at a Venezuelan restaurant for a quick dinner of pastelitos and tequenos! Yum! That was perfect for an early night!
Sights Around the AntiguaSights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Ermita de Santa Lucia
Ermita de Santa Lucia
Tikal in the morning!!!
What I learned: Bring an extra suitcase to Guatemala for your purchases.
Photo of the day: No parking
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Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
While visitor’s may be aware of the connection of two of King Streets most famous landmarks, Flagler College and The Lightner Museum, many may not know that these came to fruition because of the Villa Zorayda.
Villa Zorayda, an architectural masterpiece, was built by Franklin Smith in 1883, in the Moorish style of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. When Henry Flagler, millionaire American industrialist, founder of Standard Oil and the Florida East Coast Railway, arrived in St. Augustine in 1883 with his new wife, they found the hotel facilities and transportation systems to be inadequate. Flagler, intrigued by the stunning Villa Zorayda, offered to buy it for his honeymoon but was turned down by the owner, Franklin W. Smith. Flagler then went on to build his own architectural masterpieces on King Street.
Villa Zorayda, also known as Zorayda Castle, was Smith’s winter home and housed his extensive art and antique collection. Over the years, it was utilized as a restaurant, a nightclub, a gambling casino and a hotel. After renovations in 2003, it was reopened to the public in 2008 as a museum.
My first encounter with the architectural marvel was while riding the Old Town Trolley. As we drove through the parking lot to drop off some riders, I was intrigued with the beautiful style, but it wasn’t until the next day when I had a bit of time on my hands to hot foot it over for a quick look-see.
Of course, as I entered, I was met with my least favorite phrase, “Photography Not Permitted”. Argh! Still, I paid my admission, put on my audio guide headphones and started my tour in the small study.
Whoa! This place was amazing! Had I stepped into a middle eastern palace? It sure looked like it!
The trim, the gold detailing, the gorgeous hand-painted tiles! And this was just in the first room, the Prayer Room. Each of the rooms were similarly styled and filled with Franklin Smith’s art and antique collection, now owned by Abraham Mussallem, an authority on oriental rugs and Egyptian artifacts who also purchased the villa in 1913.
The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.
The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.
Sacred Cat Rug
It was awe-inspiring to wander from room to room studying each piece of the collection, including items from its gaming and club days. My favorite room, however, was on the second floor…the Harem Room. More of a small porch, it had a small star-shaped window to peek into the room and decorated with blue and white tiles and ornamentation. An exquisite wooden swing hung in the entry area to this room and I was tempted to take a quick ride…
Harem Room
I did not, of course, but you know what I did do?
I snuck a few pictures…okay more than a few…since the woman manning the front desk wasn’t too worried about interacting with the customers…even when paying…much less watching to see if we were disobeying instructions!
In all, my visit lasted about forty-five minutes, but was worth the exploration of this unique property and its furnishings. If you are visiting St. Augustine and making your way down King Street to witness the unique stunning structures that are Flagler College and the Lightner Museum, take a bit of time to stop in and check out the Castle of King Street, Villa Zorayda.
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As a believer in the paranormal, some of my favorite television shows are about ghosts!
The ones pertaining to ghost hunting captivate my interest because these paranormal researchers visit some of the most haunted places in the world and the United States. One Saturday night, I remember watching an episode which highlighted Gettysburg Battlefield and the apparitions that inhabit the once bloody battlefields. I was intrigued! Knowing that Gettysburg was only a few hours away, I vowed to take a road trip one day.
Many years passed and there never seemed to be enough time to squeeze that trip in between my work and personal travels. I had been all over the world…Greece, Vietnam, Paris…you name it…but I had yet to fulfill this one seemingly small visit to the nearby state.
This year, amidst the Covid 19 restrictions, I found myself with more spare time than I could have ever imagined. Because I could not get to my job easily, I was forced to take a leave for a few months. At first, it was quite difficult to be home so much more than I was accustomed. Nothing was open, so I found myself quite bored. Eventually, however, things began to reopen and I decided that even if I couldn’t travel with my job to the international places that I was used to, I could still try and visit the many attractions in my state and the ones nearby.
One day, I packed my suitcase and decided that it was the day…the day to finally visit Gettysburg and maybe some of its ghosts!
After a quick visit to the national park website, I gathered the information needed for a successful trip, arrived in record time and checked into my hotel. Deciding to purchases tickets to explore the visitor’s center, which I felt was a necessity, I then elected to skip the tour bus (and crowds), download the Gettysburg Battle Auto Tour and do it myself!
Arriving at the opening time, I said hello to a “socially distancing” Abe Lincoln and made my way through the Visitor’s Center, taking my place in line for my time slot for the film, A New Birth of Freedom. Along with the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, the film and the museum’s exhibits gave me the background of the events that led to the brutal three-day Battle of Gettysburg, fought between the Union and Confederate soldiers in June 1863. A major turning point in the Civil War, this battle saw more than 51,000 Americans killed, wounded or missing, most under General Robert E. Lee’s command. The museum contained a great deal of information of events that led up to the war, the war itself and the conditions that dictated the soldier’s lives. There were old photographs, soldiers’ uniforms, musical instruments ammunitions, letters, flags and a tribute to the ones that gave their lives for the cause that they believed in. Protected under glass, I spotted letters from Abraham Lincoln and headlines from his death in 1865. One of the most interesting exhibits, however, were the wooden ceiling joists taken from Gettysburg resident, John Forney’s farm. Hanging above our heads, you could see where a single artillery projectile pierced what once supported his house.
Though I was not sure what the Cyclorama would entail, after the film, I followed the crowds up the escalators to the upper level. The 360 degree painting, by artist Paul Philippoteaux, that surrounded us, depicted Pickett’s Charge, the Confederate attack on the Union forces on July 3, 1863. Once the equivalent of an IMAX theater, the life sized painting, which took over a year and a half to complete, was originally displayed with numerous artifacts and sculptures, including stone walls, trees and fences. It was quite the spectacle as I made my way around the circular room and inspected the magnificent painting as the light changed and each section seemed to take on a life of its own.
Once I had made my way back to the lower level, I quickly stopped at the Information Counter, received a map and some helpful advice on how best to tackle the vast expanses of the battlefield.
Finally in my car, I took a quick glance at the directions, turned on my Auto Tour and headed out to the first part of the battlefield in the northern part of the city, that of McPherson Ridge, where the Battle of Gettysburg began. Though I have visited many battlefields in Virginia, I wasn’t sure what differentiated Gettysburg from these combat zones. For starters, as I turned onto Reynolds Avenue, I discovered what it was…monuments, memorials, markers and plaques that commemorate and memorialize the men who fought and died during this important battle. Including the state monuments, this constitutes one of the largest collections of outdoor sculpture in the world.
Wanting to experience it all, I initially stopped at every monument, memorial, marker and plaque. An hour into my journey, however, I learned that if I wanted to finish the entire drive, I would have to step it up.
There were many locations that I stopped along the way to get a closer look including the Eternal Light Peace Memorial, the North Carolina, Virginia and Pennsylvania Memorials, General James Longstreet’s Monument, Brigadier General Strong Vincent Memorial, Little Round Top (the site of an unsuccessful assault by Confederate troop against the Union) and the monuments located on this hilltop. I learned that Devil’s Den, located below Little Round Top, with its huge boulders, is a popular place for visitors to stretch their legs and sometimes after dark, scour the areas around for ghosts!
Eternal Light Peace MemorialLittle Round TopLittle Round Top
There were many historical farms, with their buildings still proudly gracing various areas of the battlefield, including the farms of George Weikert, Abraham Trostle, John and Mary Wentz, the Sherfy Family, the Spanglers and the Klingles. I even discovered the home of our 34th president, Dwight D. Eisenhower.
The Home of President Dwight D. Eisenhower
Countless cannons dotted the landscape as well as other items used by the troops, including wagons. There was so much still to see as I neared the National Cemetery and the rain began to fall, dampening my efforts.
Pennsylvania MemorialPennsylvania Memorial
Finally, I made my way to the area that included Spangler’s Spring, which still exhibits its original source of drinking water and Cemetery Hill, the keystone of the Union position at Gettysburg. These were important landmarks where major assaults took place towards the end of the battle.
Such a distinctive and monumental place, the Battlefields of Gettysburg was one of the most informative, yet moving locations that I have ever set foot on. It is quite hard to imagine what partaking in those three days was like; the anticipation, the combat, the aftermath. So much effort was expended. You can still definitely feel the spirit of the souls that fought and perished here.
So, did I see any ghosts?
After a long day driving the entire battlefield, my efforts ended with the arrival of a huge thunderstorm. The lightening strikes eerily sounded like cannon fire and as I glanced out of my hotel window at the darkened skies lighting up intermittently, I decided that if I wanted to see ghosts, it wasn’t going to be on the battlefield that night.
Maybe if I had had a partner to egg me on, I might have considered driving the battlefield under the cover of night.. Or maybe, I would have had the forethought to book a room at the Comfort Suites. These rooms overlooked the Evergreen Cemetery and was adjacent to the Soldier’s National Cemetery. Certainly, they must see their share of paranormal activity just outside the hotel! This leaves me to wonder if they book extra for the rooms with a “view”!
Next time, I definitely know where I am staying!
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Address: 1195 Baltimore Pike, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: Visitor’s Center, April 1-November 30, 0900-1600. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. December 1-March 31, pending pandemic conditions. Park Grounds and Roads, April 1-October 31, 0600-1000 daily, November 1-March 31, 0600-1900, daily.
Admission: There is no fee to enter the Visitor’s Center. Ticket with timed admission for the film A New Birth of Freedom, Cyclorama Painting and the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, Adults (ages 13+), $15.00, Seniors (65+), $14.00, Active Duty U.S. Military Personnel, free, AAA Discount, $14.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $10.00, Children (ages 5 and under), free. For access to the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War only, Adults, (ages 13+), $9.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $7.00
Battlefield Tours: By car with licensed tour guide, 1-6 people per vehicle, $75.00, 7-15 people per vehicle, $100.00, 16+ people per vehicle, $150.00. By bus with licensed tour guide, Adults (age 13+), $35.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $21.00, Children (5 and under), free
Summer is my season and I love all the fun things that come with it, like going to the beach. Growing up in Louisiana, we were not far from the sunny, Emerald Coast of Florida with its clear, blue waters. Many vacations were spent traveling the short six hours and getting that Panama Jack tan all in a week’s time!
As I have grown older, however, lying on a beach for a solid week doesn’t cut it for me anymore, especially when I am visiting a new location. The travel bug, that resides in me, itches to go out and explore what makes that particular location…well, particular.
This year, since COVID 19 limited our travel options, we decided to make the drive to Florida and let our children experience what we once did in our teens and early twenties.
Having decided to stay in Fort Walton Beach, we were excited to see that the weather forecast was predicting fair skies for most of the week. After the extremely long drive from our home in Virginia, it was fun to wake early the next morning, make our way down to the white sandy beach and plant ourselves under the umbrella for the day!
As much as I loved being back to what felt almost like home, I was getting a bit antsy after only two days, especially when I awakened to darkened skies that morning. Taking the opportunity to run an errand or two, I also decided to head into downtown Fort Walton to explore the Heritage Park and Cultural Center. I had spotted this place on the way to our condominium and was quite curious. I didn’t remember ever seeing it when I was younger, but then, at that time of my life, museums were probably just not that interesting to me.
Taking a spot in the parking lot off of Miracle Strip Parkway, I made my way to the museum which has been in operation since 1962. The current building was opened in 1972 and houses information and exhibits which depict 12,000 years of Native American occupation. Making my way through the modest structure, I inspected the display cases which highlight over 1,000 artifacts of stone, bone, clay and shell, prehistoric ceramics, artifacts from European explorers, local pirates and early settlers and weaving and baskets examples.
My visit to the museum lasted less than an hour and I made my way out of the doors to climb the stairs to the the prehistoric temple mound, one of the highest points on the local landscape. The Indian Temple Mound was built as a ceremonial and political center between 800 and 1400AD by the native inhabitants of the area. Standing twelve feet tall and measuring two-hundred and twenty three feet across its base, it is thought to be one of the largest prehistoric earthworks on the Gulf Coast.
In 1964, the Indian Temple Mound was designated a National Historic Landmark and is listed on the National Historic Register. The original temple sat atop the mound and was used as the residence of the leader, a temple for religious ceremonies and a place to direct the activities of the village. I learned that it was, and still is, a sacred burial ground, leaving me to think that it may not be a place to walk near after dark if you are a believer in ghosts!
After the mound was abandoned, its history was affected by the arrival of Confederate Soldiers during the Civil War and by the excavations executed by the Smithsonian Institute seeking information about the original inhabitants.
Though I could only maintain a fair distance from the temple at the top of the mound, the area surrounding the base was open for inspection.
There are three other museums in the complex; Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum, Garnier Post Office Museum, and the Civil War Exhibit Building. As I walked to the far end of the property, I learned that due to Covid 19 restrictions in the state, these other buildings were closed to visitors. I was, however, able to inspect the exteriors and take a peek into some of the windows.
The Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum, of which the exterior was being restored when we visited, was one of the museums on the premises that I would have loved to visit and will certainly return to in the future. It is a historic two-room structure that covers the history of education in the county from 1911 to the 1930’s. Once located on Main Street, this is the third location that the schoolhouse has been set upon. Built of native timber, the school was opened in 1912 with one teacher and fifteen students and all levels of education were taught in the one room institution for fifteen years. In 1927, another room was added for high school students and their teacher. Nine years, later, the students were moved to the New Fort Walton School. The old schoolhouse was purchased and moved to eventually serve as apartments for families during World War II and for years after. The building was left to deteriorate during the 1970’s and scheduled for demolition when the Junior Service League stepped in. Persuading the owners to donate the building, it was preserved and continued to serve in an educational capacity. It was moved to its present location in 2006.
Another museum on the premises is the Garnier Post Office Museum. This museum exhibits items from the early days of the postal service of Walton county from 1918 to 1956.
Originally located on the beach of Garnier’s Bayou, the service was relocated at the junction of Mooney and Garnier Post Roads in 1918. Under the direction of the postmaster, Euphrates A. Mooney until his death in 1935, the operations of the office was then assumed by his wife Julia, who served for twenty-eight years. Just before Mrs. Mooney’s death in 1956, the small post office was closed and thirty years later, the building was moved onto First Street behind the Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum. After its restoration, the Garnier Post Office Museum was moved with the schoolhouse in 2006.
The final museum is the one that houses Exhibits of the Civil War and was constructed in this location in 2010. There are various items in the gallery that depict life of the Civil War soldiers stationed here during the era, information about the state’s secession, slavery in Florida, prisoners of war and other information about important events that happened during wartime.
Walking back to my car, I realized that the steady drizzle that had plagued my visit had now stopped. As I put my car into drive and headed out to the Miracle Strip Parkway, a ray of sunshine illuminated the bridge to Okaloosa Island. A rainbow hovered over the island and I realized that the end was situated just near our condominium, where I was was returning to!
Even with my love for the sun, which you hope for on a beach vacation, there has to be days of clouds and rain. Years ago, when I was hoping for my deep, dark tan, I would have been frustrated to have a rainy day. Today, it was a blessing…a day to experience the culture of the area. The true pot of gold at the end of that rainbow!
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Address: 139 Miracle Strip Parkway SE, Fort Walton Beach, Florida 32548
Hours: 1000-1500, Tuesday-Saturday *Current hours due to Covid 19 reduction
Admission: $3.00 plus tax, ages 4 and older. *Current admission price due to Covid 19 reduced hours and admittance. Only the Indian Temple Mound and the Indian Temple Mound Museum are open at this time…7/28/2020 thru the publication of this article, 10/6/2020.
The early bird gets the worm…or a great breakfast!
Although I had checked many things off of my list of things to do in Havana, there was still a great deal more to see! As I sat in the dining room, enjoying my eggs, fruit and toast, I checked my map and thought more about the some of the things that were suggested by my seatmate on the flight to Havana.
Deciding to start at the Basilica and Convent of San Francis of Assisi, I thought that I would finally see more of the religious institutions that dot the predominately Catholic country.
Getting anywhere was slow going as I was continually distracted by the unique architecture that existed on each block. Passing the Museo Casa de Mexico Benito Juarez, I made a note to return later if there was time and then made a quick stop to admire the statue of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan military and political leader who led Venezuela, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Panama to independence from the Spanish Empire.
Casa de Benito Juarezand Simon Bolivar Statue
Finally arriving in the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, I first sought out two significant statues. The monument to the Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, sits on a bench, beckoning visitors to take a seat next to him and El Caballero, the bronze likeness of José María López Lledín, a man which much speculation once surrounded. An interesting story surrounds the latter. Originally from Spain, he was was said to have lost his family, arrested for a crime he did not commit and wandered the streets of Havana during the 1950s. He always carried a portfolio with his treasured pens, gifts and colored pieces of cards, which he bestowed on passersby. Over time, he became well known throughout the city and would often entertain with poetry recitals and storytelling. He died in 1985 and was buried in the Cemetery of Santiago de las Vegas. After the restoration of the plaza in the late 1990s, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis. His statue was erected in 2001 and was designed by sculptor José Villa Soberón, who also sculpted the John Lennon sculpture which can be found in the Parque Lennon in Vedado. His beard has been rubbed shiny and it is said that doing so gives good luck!
After a beard rubbing, I admired the lovely, wide open plaza and the beautiful buildings surrounding it, as well as the statue of Fray Junípero Serro with a Juaneño Indian boy, before entering the Basilica.
The original church that stood on this site was built by the Franciscans in 1591 but was damaged by severe storms in 1680 and 1692. A hurricane toppled its tower in 1694. Eventually, construction resulted in the church’s present Baroque stature in 1739, was named a basilica by the Pope and became the city’s premier house of worship. It eventually adjoined the adjacent Franciscan convent.
As I ventured inside, again I was a bit underwhelmed, as I had been with the Havana Cathedral. Its interior is in the shape of a Latin cross with domed ceilings, however, it lacked the grandeur that I thought would exist here. As I later learned, however, from 1762, the church no longer served the Catholic religion. From this time, the British had control over Havana and commandeered the basilica for Anglican services. Considered desecrated by the Protestants, Catholicism never existed within its walls again. Although the monks continued to occupy the convent, Queen Maria Cristina of Spain closed the building and transferred the members of the religious order. In 1907, the property was purchased by the government and sadly, became a warehouse.
Today, the church acts as one of Havana’s most outstanding concert halls and is home to the acclaimed all-female chamber orchestra, Camerata Romeu. As I wandered through the church, I was privy to some of the members performing during a rehearsal session.
Inside the crypt, the remains of many 17th and 18th century aristocrats can be found. The nave and the attached cloister also houses the Museum of Sacred Art which exhibits paintings by José Nicolás de la Escalera and Vicente Escobar, wooden images, early marriage registries and the armchairs and lectern used by Fidel Castro and Pope John Paul II during his 1998 visit. Though I enjoyed wandering through the church’s interior, it was the cloister with its fern-filled courtyards and countless rooms filled with religious artifacts that was most captivating.
The former church’s one hundred and thirty-seven foot tower, once the tallest in Havana (second tallest in Cuba), was previously crowned by a statue of St. Francis of Assisi, whose head was severed during a hurricane in 1846. Though the tower can be accessed by a somewhat rickety staircase (which I had planned to tackle for the beautiful views of the city), it was sadly not meant to be…the spire was closed due to maintenance.
Making my departure, I headed south on Oficios and immediately found myself staring at a train’s coach car, El Coche Mambi. Entering the car, I was greeted by an elderly woman, who explained (in Spanish) that visiting was by tour only. After paying her, she then led me through the car which was used by the Presidents on their tours of the country. Last used by Fidel Castro Ruz, the coach has been converted into a museum and preserved the same as when it was in use. Though my Spanish is basic, I mostly understood the history and what I was seeing as she led me through the coach and explained its contents. The president’s bedroom, the president’s wife’s bedroom, the kitchen, dining room and the president’s desk were quite interesting and beautifully displayed.
As I thanked the gracious senora for the short, yet insightful stopover, I ventured out, making my way to the waterside.
Headed toward the ferry terminal, I first encountered Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral. Since I had deemed the day, “a church day”, I decided that my ferry to Regla could wait while I find if it was possible to see the church’s interior. Discovering unlocked doors, I peered inside, spying a woman performing some tasks. She did not seem disturbed by my presence, so I quietly entered and moved throughout the space, discovering each of the elements that make an orthodox church unique.
The church’s construction dates back to 2004 when Cuban leader Fidel Castro offered to build the cathedral as a monument to Russian and Cuban good-will. The cathedral was built in the Byzantine style with a central golden cupola surrounded by four smaller copper-colored ones. The pieces of the cupolas, as well as elements of decoration, including the floor covering and the church plate, were brought from Moscow and the interior has space for 500 congregants.
After my walk-thru was complete, I ventured back out into the sunshine, finally heading to the ferry terminal. My destination was the small town across the bay where the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla is located. Though I probably would have not done this without some coaxing, it was highly recommended by the tour guide that I sat beside on the airplane. After hearing how much I love visiting churches, he insisted that I take the ferry to see this church, which houses the black Madonna, a highly venerated statue of the Virgin Mary.
I was a bit nervous as I entered the ferry terminal. After having my bag searched, I unsuccessfully searched for a ticket counter. There were many people waiting and as a boat approached from the south, I assumed that this was the correct vessel. Lining up with both locals and tourists, I asked a gentleman if this was the boat to Regla and was told yes, only to glance up and discover that another boat had pulled up to the dock. Hmmm. I decided that I would go with my gut!
As I approached the lanchita on the right, I saw people paying the crew as they boarded. Thankfully, I had smaller change, even though I overpaid a bit…ticket price was only 10 centavos! Making my way across the boat to the open doorways, so that I could get some air while fighting for space among the masses, I again asked someone (who appeared to be a local) if I was on the boat to Regla. “Si Señora”, he replied and I breathed a sigh of relief.
As we pulled away from the dock, I realized that if I indeed was on the wrong boat, the other ferry crossed the bay to the Christ statue and that wouldn’t be such a bad thing. Our ferry motored off, getting further from the city and I spied the golden cupola of Our Lady of Kazan in the distance, reflecting the brilliant glow of the day. And…it looked like we were headed in the right direction!
Seven minutes later, we were pulling up to the dock in Regla and I decided to follow those who appeared to be tourists. From the looks of the area, it seemed like the church was the tourist destination of choice…maybe the only choice.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla was a short walk and I was met by many vendors sitting on the stone gates which surrounded the church, hoping to sell me a candle or an offering to the Virgin. The church, with its long colorful history, is extremely important to the believers of the Virgin. The statue, which was believed to have been carved by St. Augustine “the African” in the 5th century, was brought from Spain in 453. After surviving a storm in the Strait of Gibraltar, it became known as the patron of sailors.
A small hut was built on the site, to house a copy of the image in 1687 by a pilgrim named Manuel Antonio, but was destroyed by a hurricane only five years later. A more durable chapel was built a few years later and in 1714, Nuestra Señora de Regla was proclaimed patron of the Bahía de la Habana. In 1957, the image was crowned by the Cuban Cardinal in the Havana Cathedral. On September 7, the saint is celebrated when thousands of pilgrims descend on Regla and the image is paraded through the streets.
The church’s vaulted ceiling makes a grand statement above the lightness of the church’s color scheme which is trimmed in blue, a salute to its association with the sea. There are beautiful paintings which depict life on the ocean, carved stations of the cross, saint’s statues and a golden side altar. As you enter the church, however, it is the altar, directly in your line of vision, that houses La Santísima Virgen de Regla. Though I had to wait a short time, I was finally able to approach the altar and take pictures of the Black Madonna…truly awe inspiring.
The ferry ride back to Old Havana was a quick affair and I toyed with the idea of immediately jumping on the other ferry. I wanted to revisit the Christ Statue and Castillo Des Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and I also wanted to tour La Cabana. There were other things in Old Havana that I wanted to discover first, however, so off I went by land, towards the Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market.
Since I had done a bit of browsing on Obispo street, but not yet made any significant purchases, I was eager to see what I might find in this highly recommended establishment. Built in 1885, the Havana’s oldest depository is the home to the largest artisan’s market in the city. A short walk from the harbor, it is easily accessible to cruise ship arrivals and offers everything from clothes to paintings to toys and tobacco accessories. The sheer size of it was quite overwhelming and I was not sure where to turn. As everyone tried to garner my attention, I decided that I would try to find shirts for my sons and a nativity set for my collection. In a predominately Catholic country, it would seem that finding a nativity set would be an easy feat, however, it took at least a half an hour of talking to people, who then went to talk to people, in order to find one! And since I was pretty particular about the type of t-shirts that I was searching for, it was a similar procedure. It was quite exhausting, but I met some interesting people, learned some interesting local news and walked away with the purchases I had planned and then a couple of unplanned ones too!
With my heavy package, I decided that I would begin heading back to my Airbnb to drop them and have a quick bite to eat. Crossing the street, however, I spotted the Church of St. Francisco of Paula. What caught my attention was the tall trio of stained glass windows on the rear of the church. I decided that I should take a quick look from the inside to see their sunlit beauty.
What originally served as an important hospital for women and children during the end of the 17th century, was built with an adjoining church devoted to St. Francis of Paola, one of the founders of the Roman Catholic Order of the Minims. The buildings were destroyed by a hurricane in 1730, but rebuilt in the Baroque style that is seen today. When the Havana Central Railroad attempts to demolish the church was met by opposition, work was completed to have it listed as a National Monument in 1944. Sadly, however, the railroad was able to destroy the hospital.
The church that can be visited today is similar in style to other Havana churches, those of Santo Domingo, Guanabacoa and San Francisco de Asis and has been extensively restored. The stained glass windows, that lured me inside, act as the altarpiece and this church has the only organ that has been preserved in Cuba with its original pipes and machinery. The ashes of the great Cuban violinist Claudio José Brindis de Salas (1852-1911), considered one of the best violinists of his time, are preserved in the church and although the the belfry still exists, its original three bells, destroyed during the hurricane of 1730, were never restored.
My stomach was starting to rumble and my feet were starting to ache, but there was one more church I wanted to see before I shifted gears. A couple of blocks from St. Francis of Paola church was the Iglesia y Convento de la Merced.
Having seen a few churches in the city, I had been a bit underwhelmed. This one, however, did not disappoint. One of the most beautiful churches in Havana, it was built between 1865 and 1867 in the Baroque style and is the type to make you gasp as you lay your eyes on the interior. Decorated by Cuban artists, it contains murals and frescoes throughout with highlights of light blue on the ceiling and an elegant black and white marble floor. Beautiful statuary and intricately carved stations of the cross grace its heart and it was hard not to take a seat on the old carved pews to rest and pray for a few moments. The most intriguing part of the church, however, was the chapel on the left side of the church with a full grotto installed behind the altar. Though the church is suffering from exposure to the damp air and is in need of restoration, it is truly one that I was glad that I did not miss.
Finally, it was time to continue my journey back to my temporary home. It had been a busy morning and I needed to refresh and refuel. After my lunch, it would be time to change channels from churches to the forts that lay across the channel.
From prayers to protection…all in a day in Havana!
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Casa Benito Juarez
Address: 116, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: Sunday and Tuesday only, 0930-1430.
Admission: Unknown
Statue of Simon Bolivar
Address: Mercaderes, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Convento and Basilica Menor of San Francis of Assisi
Address: Plaza de San Francisco La Habana Vieja, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0930-1800, daily
Admission: Church and Museum, $2 CUC (about $2 US), Tower $1 CUC (about $1 US), Children under 12 years, free
El Coche Mambi
Address: Oficios y Churruca, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0930-1600. Closed Sunday.
Admission: By tour only, $2 CUC (about $2 US)
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral
Address: Avenida del Puerto Esquina Calles Sol y Santa Clara – La Habana Vieja, Havana 10100 Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free
Terminal de Ferris (Ferry Terminal)
Address: Avenue Del Puerto, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 0400-midnight, daily.
Admission: 10 centavos (about 10 cents US)
Capacity is 90 persons and boats depart every 15 minutes
Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla
Address: Avenue Marti, Regla, Cuba
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: free, donations accepted
Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market
Address: Avenida del Puerto corner of Calle Cuba
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800. Closed on Monday.
Admission: free
St. Francis of Paola
Address: 110 Leonor Pérez, Havana, Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free
Iglesia Y Convento de la Merced
Address: Calle de Cuba 806, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Hours listed are 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, Monday-Saturday and 0900-1300, Sunday, however, I ventured in after the noon hour, so church may or may not be closed. Mass times are 0900, Monday-Saturday and noon, Sunday
As I sat in the sanwicheria, eating my chicken and cheese sandwich, I contemplated how to tackle parts of the city which I had not seen that day or on my previous day’s ventures.
Should I make my way to the waterside area bordering Avenue del Puerto for its many museums and churches, venture out to the Malecon’s architectural wonders and take in the fresh sea air or head south to the Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market to seek out some exclusive treasures?
Finally deciding to head north, I made my way along the narrow, dusty streets stopping to capture the captivating architecture and scenes of daily life on my camera. What fascinated me most, however, were the small markets and the carnicerias…not for what they offered or for their appearances, but how locals were required to stand outside in long lines to purchase products. I was a bit confused with the markets, especially, as people stood with their noses pressed against the windows while shopkeepers unlocked the door and allowed one person inside at irregular intervals. After speaking with my host, I learned that purchases are regulated by the government and it is sometimes difficult for locals to obtain necessities. Thankfully, drinks (beer, water and soda) and food were provided by my host and charged to my account, so I never had to figure out how to gain admission into these exchanges.
Continuing on, I decided to conquer the northern part of the city, starting with the Museum of the Revolution. After paying my admission and checking my backpack in the baggage room, I made my through the former Presidential Palace, which dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1913. The awe-inspiring building was decorated by Tiffany’s of New York, contains a jaw-dropping double staircase and many exquisite rooms including the Salón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors), which resembles the room in the Palace of Versailles, the Salón Dorado, used for banquets and decorated in Louis XVI style, the Despacho Presidencial, the President’s office where Fidel Castro was sworn in in 1959 and the chapel with its Tiffany chandelier.
Museum of the RevolutionSalón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors)Salón DoradoDespacho Presidencial
Though I was originally unaware of Cuba’s history, especially during the revolutionary period, the displays, though mostly captioned in Spanish, contain much documentation and photographic evidence of Batista’s overthrow and a somewhat skewed view of Castro’s seizure of power. There is a large array of artifacts, clothing (including blood-stained and bullet riddled uniforms), letters, documents, weapons and newspapers. If you look carefully or have a guide point it out to you, you can spy the bullet holes in the walls, near the staircase, from the students’ attempt at overthrowing the government in 1957.
In the rear of the building you can find the Granma, the vessel that brought Castro, Guevara and eighty-two others to Cuba in 1956 with the purpose of overthrowing the regime of Fulgencio Batista. Due to preservation purposes, be warned, the ship is partly obscured by the surrounding glass and continuously guarded. There are other vehicles associated with the revolution surrounding the pavilion, including planes, rockets and an old postal van that was used as a getaway car during the 1957 attack. In the courtyard and throughout the museum, there were many art pieces by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.
The GranmaCourtyardSculpture by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.
In addition to seeing many other tourists within the museum, I was a bit taken aback to find many locals as well. I later learned, however, the museum was designed primarily to help Cubans understand their own history.
Exiting the museum, I stopped to take a look at the fragment of the former city wall and the SAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs battle. Just beyond these landmarks, I made my way through the Plaza Trece de Marzo, passing the statue of patriot José Marti on horseback, a gift from U.S. donors through a fund initiated by the Bronx Museum of the Arts. The original bronze statue of Marti on horseback, by equine sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington (from which this was modeled) can be seen in New York’s Central Park.
City Wall FragmentSAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of PigsPlaza Trece de Marzo
Walking a ways on the Paseo de Marti, again, I was in awe of the architectural gems. Although some were a shadow of their former selves, you could see the artistry that still prevails. This must have been a beautiful place to walk in its heyday and today is still a nice place to stroll with its colorfully, tiled walkways, large shade trees and dedicated effigies.
Crossing the traffic circle near the Spanish embassy, I walked up to the monument that we had passed earlier in the day during my tour…that of General Maximo Gomez, a commander in the wars for independence. The statue is well maintained and frequented by youngsters who used the wide open area to skate.
As the breeze from the Bay of Havana beckoned me toward the water, I found myself at the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, one of the four historic forts that defended Port Havana. Built more than 400 years ago, San Salvador de la Punta Castle is also one of the three fortresses that appear on the Cuban coat of arms.
Castle La Punta and Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the fort I had visited on my tour earlier during the day, were both built on either sides of the channel’s entry. For centuries, a chain barrier was stretched across the canal to prevent access into the port. If this did not deter marauders, pirates and anyone else with ill-intent, there were many large cannons pointed toward the water.
Today, the castle’s moat is no longer functional and the castle no longer serves in its original capacity. Renovated in 2002, to restore it to its original historic appearance, its interior houses the Castle Museum. There are several rooms that inform about the castle’s history and construction, displays of naval models, various objects from sunken Spanish fleets and information about underwater archeology and the slave trade. Intricate models of other castles in Spain, Italy and Cuba can be found on the lower level and many cannons and artillery can be found on the upper level. Don’t plan on asking for any assistance, the staff has other things to do during the mid-day hours! Can anyone say siesta?
After taking in the castle’s interior, make sure to walk around the promenade that surrounds the castle. Here, you can check out dedications to other castles, statues, cannons and fantastic views of the channel, Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, La Cabana and the Malecón. Take a moment to cross back over the roadway to check out the Monument to the Eight Medical Students, a Greek-style temple, built in 1890, in memory of the students executed in the city in 1871, who were accused of violating the grave of a Spanish journalist and the Real Carcel de La Habana, the remains of a 19th century jail where political figures were incarcerated.
Monument to the Eight Medical StudentsReal Carcel de La Habana
At the beginning of my afternoon, one of the options I considered was making my way along the waterway on the Avenue Del Puerto. I had already seen so much of Havana and there was still so much on my agenda, especially in this area. It was hard to believe I had already seen so many interesting places.
With the walkway bordering the channel nearby, I decided that that would be my general direction. Sunset was many hours away, leaving me with ample time to continue my explorations…what else would I find in this beautiful, old city?
To be continued…
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Museo de Revolucion
Address: Calle Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Zulueta, Havana 10600 Cuba
Hours: 0930-1600, daily
Admission: Adult Nationals, $8 CUC ($8 US), Under 12 years, free. Adults, International, $10 CUC ($10 US) Guided tours, $2 ($2 US), only available in Spanish. Ticket office open from 0930-1600.
Plaza 13 de Marzo and Statue of José Marti
Address: Agramonte (y Genios), Havana, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Monument to General Maximo Gomez
Address: Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta
Address: Paseo de Marti Prado y Av. del Puerto, Havana Cuba
Beautiful sands, highlighted by emerald waters and scantily clad bodies are what many visitors come to the city for!
Plus, who can’t stop the Barry Manilow song “Copacabana” playing in your head!
Having participated in and beheld the spectacle that is Rio’s Carnivale the night before, sleep was what I needed most, but I also did not want to miss out on a warm, cloudless day! Forcing myself up and out of bed, I decided to head to the beach, but realizing that I had somehow forgotten my bathing suit, I decided that scantily clad is not what I wanted to shoot for!
Deciding that I would still go to the beach, it would just be in a different capacity. At the far end of the beach is Fort Copacabana and the least I could do would be to squeeze in a bit of Rio’s culture and history.
As an Uber took me through the crowded streets, filled with revelers, I was glad that I was protected inside a vehicle as I watched a young girl lose her phone to a quick-footed thief! Thankfully, my driver safely deposited me at the entrance to the fort soon after!
There are a few items of interest in the entrance courtyard, including a shrine to Santa Barbara, as well as the ticket counter to obtain entry, but after entering its giant white-washed portal, it is the sumptuous views of the Copacapana beaches and and the pristine waters of the Atlantic ocean that grab your attention. There are a few pieces of military equipment lining the sea wall and a couple of quaint cafes here to enjoy the views.
Dating back to its inception in 1914, the fort is a museum which showcases many exhibits pertaining to the Brazilian Army. It was one of the most modern installations of its time and was constructed to guard the entrance to Guanabara Bay and the adjacent coastline.
In 1922, the fort was involved in an unsuccessful military uprising but was eventually converted into the Army History Museum when there was no need for Coast Artillery Batteries.
The Army History Museum is the first part of the property that can be toured. It is filled with military memorabilia and exhibits on the Brazilian military’s history.
Continuing along the walkway, I entered the actual fort and made my way through each of the exhibits, some showcasing ammunitions and others, the living and work spaces of the soldiers assigned there I marveled at the beautiful tile work and iron works decorating the arched doorways. Exploring the infirmary and engine rooms, I made my way throughout the passageways, some decorated with dioramas depicting various events in the history of Brazil.
Of special interest within the main building is the small Chapel of the Senora of Copacabana. The fort was built on the peninsula where the original church of the Nossa Senhora de Copacabana was located and the shrine gave the soldiers a place to worship and pray.
The exterior and its grounds were a maze of walkways leading to the top of the fort where the ocean’s mighty waves crashed against its base and on its topmost location is a mighty cannon. It is the perfect place to grab a spot and enjoy the beauty of not only the fort but Rio itself.
So I didn’t get to enjoy the sunshine that afternoon at the beach. I got to enjoy the sunshine at the Fort while soaking up some of Brazil’s rich history. I think that is better than any tan!
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Address: Praça Coronel Eugênio Franco, 1, Rio de Janeiro – RJ 22070-020, Brazil
Hours: 1000-1800, Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Mondays.
Admission: Adults, R $6, Students, Teachers, Seniors, 60+ and Youth ID holders, R $3. Free, Members of the military and dependents, Seniors over 80 years, Disabled, Children under 6 years, Tour guides
When you are on a romantic weekend with your spouse, visiting a Torture Museum is not what one normally thinks of…unless maybe you are Christian Grey.
So maybe those with certain fetishes might enjoy this kind of setting or if you are upset with your spouse and searching for ways to make him suffer for not mowing the lawn, it might be of interest.
Seriously though, crazy experiences shared together are what you look back on and laugh at later!
As my husband and I were investigating the streets of Bruges, we happened upon this museum. Though it wasn’t high on my list of things to see, we ultimately decided that it might be thought-provoking.
The Torture Museum, located in a former fortress designed to protect Bruges, later became one of the oldest historical European prisons. During the 14th century, it became known as the “Old Stone” or “Oude Steen”.
The museum is a chronological maze of more than 100 torture devices, often displayed with realistic wax figures. As we made our way from the opening act, Vlad the Impaler, with a head firmly planted on the top of a spear, to various contraptions such as the Rack, the Cat’s Paw and the Drunkard’s Cloak, it was obvious that committing crimes, even petty ones, during medieval times, was something to ponder seriously as the punishments were so severe. These instruments were engineered to cause unbelievable humiliation, pain and suffering on the human body and mind.
Vlad the ImpalerDrunkard’s CloakBranding
Many of these devices we recognized from books and television shows but some were new. The method of peine forte et dure (hard and forceful punishment) was a form of torture which inflicted punishment on those accused of a felony, but who would neither plead guilty or not guilty. The accused was placed under a board upon which heavier and heavier stones were arranged until either a plea was entered or the defendant died from suffocation.
Peine Forte et Dure
The Heretic’s Fork was an abominable tool resembling a two-way steel fork with sharp spikes that was attached by a leather belt to the victim’s neck. It was often used for charges of heresy and witchcraft. Just thinking about moving your chin…ouch!
Heretic’s Fork
Another that I though quite interesting, and not so gruesome, was the Straw Plait. A heavy plait of hair, that was braided from straw, was woven into the hair of a woman for offences that referred to feminine dignity, such as low necklines or seductive gaits. Though not a severe punishment, it is imaginable that this heavy addition to the head would prove to be cumbersome.
Straw Plait
The Violin Gossip gave me a good laugh as I imagined two quarreling women secured into this contraption, facing each other and unable to escape each’s presence. This was an instrument used often to punish gossipers and to settle quarrels.
Violin’s Gossip
And of course, there was the guillotine, ever ready with a woven basket awaiting a bloody addition and a variety of other tools and executioner’s outfits. The most horrific, in my opinion, was Rat Torture. Though I have seen this depicted in horror and gangster movies, to see a wax figure in a former dungeon portraying this form of torture is disturbing to say the least. For those who do not know what this cheap and effective torment entails, let me describe it for you. Imagine the victim completely restrained and tied to the ground or another surface. A rat is then placed on their stomach and covered by a metallic container. As the container is heated, the rat then begins to look for a way out. Since the container is too hard to dig through…well…
Rat Torture
Wandering through this former prison, though gruesome at times, was a dark journey through time when torture was a widespread form of punishment. One of the most intriguing museums that we have ever visited, we learned a great deal about the discipline and persecution experienced from the 13th to 18th centuries.
And no, there wasn’t anything that I thought would be suitable to use as punishment for my husband making me angry!
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I will admit, I have never seen it, but for some reason, I was always intrigued with the idea of visiting Bruges.
My stays in Belgium have always consisted of a short twenty-four hours in Brussels, leaving me to think that I never had enough time to travel to Bruges, after my oh-so-important nap…after flying all night. When my husband and I decided to take a trip to Brussels for a few days, he was informed that plan number one included a day trip to Bruges.
After an hour’s train ride, we arrived in Bruges and made our way toward the city’s center. I had done a bit of legwork and made a list of some things that would be of interest to both my husband and I.
Having a quick bite (Belgian waffles, of course!), we sat in the cozy little cafe and gaze out into the Market Square, centered with a statue paying tribute to Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck, leaders of the Bruges Matin, an uprising against the French in the 14th. The square is surrounded by beautiful and historic architecture including the Provincial Court building and the majestic Belfort.
The Belfort was where we were going to start our exploration, though knowing that 366 steps to the top was involved…I was a bit apprehensive. But dressed for the occasion in my most comfortable boots, I was ready to see what this historic landmark would offer.
The 13th century Belfort is one of the three historically important towers of Bruges (with the Church of Our Lady and St. Saviour’s Cathedral) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Standing 83 meters high, the tower formerly housed a treasury, the municipal archives and served as an observation post for spotting fires, invaders and other dangers.
As we entered the former market hall, we climbed the stairs to the second level where the ticket counter is located. After purchasing our tickets, we were required to wait at the turnstile until it was unlocked and let us through…this was after two other people left the tower. One in, one out. It is unimaginable how lengthy the lines must become during the busier summer months!
Beginning our climb, we took it slowly and were happy to have a break when we reached the former Treasury. Here, the privileges, city’s charters, city’s seal and its accounts and funds were stored in this vaulted room from the thirteenth century onward. These precious documents were stored in padlocked chests behind the heavy wrought iron doors.
The belfry was also a meeting location for the town aldermen and was the preferred location for proclamations. These announcements were read from the balcony of the hall tower.
Door to the balcony
Continuing our climb, we headed upward to the next part of the tower which offered an explanation of how time was measured, how this process evolved over time and its importance to the citizens of Bruges. In this medieval city, the sound of the bells ruled the lives of its citizens and were used as a way of organizing their daily routines. Combinations of the pitches of these bells let citizens know exactly what was the time of day and what events were to take place. For example, the work bell was rung for the start of the working day, the noon bell signaled time for a lunch break and the evening bell marked the hour when the city’s gates were closed. The ringing of the bells also marked certain occasions such as a call to battle, the outbreak of fire, proclamations, public executions or the beginning and end of market days. The tower guards, who were responsible for sounding the bells, often passed the time between the hours, practicing their trades. A job often held by cobblers, you can probably imagine many a shoe was created here.
Today, Bruges has a city carillonneur who plays the bells on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 1100 to noon. If you are visiting during the summer months, keep your ears pealed for special carillon concerts.
Taking a deep breath, we ascended the stairs to reach the Drum Room which not only displayed some of the ten great bells that have graced the tower since 1280, but the largest, brought over from the Church of Our Lady. This great bell weighs approximately six tons and has a diameter of almost seven feet. The drum is the largest in existence and thought to weigh nine tons. It plays a melody every quarter of the hour and every half hour is marked with a short musical signal. Every two years, the music is changed. The clock, which can be spied from the square below, was made in 1748 and is operated by a three meter long pendulum.
Finally (and breathlessly), we reached the top of the tower in which the bells can be seen hanging from the rafters. This is the spot which you really appreciate the three hundred sixty-six steps that you just climbed! Unparalleled views of the city are like no other.
Heading back down was much easier than than the climb to the top, however, it was took a bit of maneuvering when encountering those heading upwards, as the circular stairways were quite narrow.
As we both exited the tower, I looked to my right at the line that had formed near the ticket counter. The light turned green, the turnstile unlocked and two other eager visitors moved through, ready to make the climb.
We walked out to the square and took a look upward, seeing from the exterior what we had just seen from the inside. This ancient tower that actually leans eighty-seven centimeters to the east and has played an important role in its citizens’ lives for centuries…
Now I really need to go and watch In Bruges to see it from another perspective!
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Standing tall in the Grand Place of Brussels, there are two grandiose buildings facing each other that set the tone for the city’s majestic square.
Each is so intricate and beautiful, and I have captured both photographically many times. If you had asked me prior to my last trip, if I knew what each was, however, I would honestly have had to say absolutely not!
On one side, you have Brussels’ City Hall and on the other side is the Broodhuis (Bread House), a UNESCO World Heritage Site which houses the Brussels City Museum. I thought that my husband might have enjoyed visiting City Hall, however, after entering the courtyard and the ticket office, we were informed that the next English tour would not be until later that afternoon. Since we had other plans for later in the day, we decided that the tour would have to wait.
Brussels City Hall
Broodhuis (Maison de Roi)
Moving onward, we headed over to Manneken Pis and then the museum that acts as his own personal closet, Garderobe Manneken Pis. As we purchased our admission, we were given the option to buy the combination ticket which also allowed access into the Broodhuis. Mulling over the decision, I learned something that I never knew. The Manneken Pis that every one goes to see (including us) is an IMPOSTER! The real Manneken Pis, for security reasons, is kept in the Broodhuis.
This cemented our decision…we were heading there next!
Once a wooden bread market building built in the 13th century, the Broodhuis was replaced by the Duke of Brabant during the 15th century. While City Hall symbolized the city’s independence, the new Broodhouis was designed to be a symbol of his power.
Also known as the Maison du Roi (King’s House), named for the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, who once owned the Bread House, the building was destroyed in the 16th century and rebuilt in the 19th century in the Gothic Revival style that we see today.
As we made our way through the Broodhuis, we learned a great deal about Brussels’ history. There is much attention given to arts, crafts, archaeology and folklore. One complete room was devoted to casts made from the sculptures from the exterior of the building. It was interesting to be able to see what these sculptural entities, only seen from afar, look like up close. Other rooms, gave particular attention to artifacts, tapestries, models and paintings.
What I loved most about this museum, however, was that for all the beauty that can be spied from the outside, the architectural detail is carried on throughout the interior. Carved doorways, stair railings and vaulted ceilings grace the spaces and as I walked from floor to floor, I couldn’t help but gasp at the light illuminating the intricate stained glass windows.
As astounded as we were to inspect this historic space, however, we really had come to see one thing in particular.
Would the REAL Manneken Pis, please stand up?
Okay, he’s already standing…I just really wanted to use that phrase! But seriously, where was he? As we made our way throughout the museum, we kept expecting to turn each corner and find him. Well, you know how this sort of thing works…naturally, he would be placed in the furthest room on the highest floor!
Finally, we discovered him, alone in a glass case. It was almost anticlimactic as I’m so used to seeing his doppelganger set inside his shell-shaped alcove surrounded by hundreds of his adoring fans.
But, alas, we had found him (the REAL him) set inside one of Brussels’ most historic edifices! SO…with the price of a ticket, you have access to two of the city’s most important treasures!
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Address: Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles, Grand-Place, 1000 Bruxelles
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Closed on Mondays, January 1, May 1, November 1, November 11 and December 25
Admission: Adults ages 18+, 4€. Under age 18 and citizens of Brussels, free. Free with Brussels card and on the first Sunday of the month. You can purchase a combined ticket for both the Garderobe Manneken Pis and the BrusselsCity Museum, 8€.
Getting There: Bourse tram stop, #3 or #4, , Bus, #48 or #95, Metro, Central Station / Brouckère, Train, Central Station
