Not A Plain Jain

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No discriminating religious institution visitor here!

Churches, temples, synagogues, mosques, chapels, basilicas, monasteries, convents…you name it! They are all on my visitation list when exploring a new city.

When we set out for our day in Mumbai, I had a loose plan. I knew that if we encountered any temples or churches, I would want to visit, however, I didn’t have any particular one in mind.

“Abdul…can we visit a temple?” (as our day came to a close…)

Abdul navigated his way through the streets of Mumbai and before long, we pulled over to the side of the street. He showed us the entrance to the Jain Temple Mumbai (also known as the Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple) and told us that he would park further down the street and wait for us.

Not sure what was in store for us, we cautiously entered the front gates and were immediately confronted with the rules of the temple. Some were incredibly interesting!

When I began to glance at the temple and its surroundings, I was extremely excited to explore it further. The temple is very interesting in that the entire premises is covered by a high roof that allows light to enter and which I also assume protects the decorated temple from the elements. The Jain Temple Mumbai is a place of religious significance and was built more than a century ago in 1904. The shrine is dedicated to Adishwara, the founder of Jainism and is the largest of the Jain temples in the city.

Ditching my sandals, I approached the temple and was stunned by its unique architecture and beauty. I was awed at the two stone elephants that greeted me at the stairway and the ornate archways and pillars that lured me further inside. Admittedly, I was a bit apprehensive about stepping inside and taking photos, but no one seemed to pay me any attention as they went about their business.

As I made my way throughout the temple, I discovered colorful sculptures and columns decorated with multi-hued and intricately carved flowers, marble floors and detailed paintings. As I glanced upward, I marveled at an amazing domed ceiling bedecked with symbols of the zodiac.

There were many worshipers, each paying their respects to the twenty-four tirthankaras and idols that could be found in the small alcoves. What I found most interesting, however, was a statue that a group of women were painstakingly changing. There were metal pieces, sort of like a coat of armor, that they were switching out to give the statue a different look. Was this Adishwara? Sadly, I never discovered the answer.

At the time, I didn’t know much about this religion, however, I later learned from Abdul, that the Jains are peace loving people who maintain their principles and avoid violence, most not even willing to kill an insect. They take great pride in and contribute greatly to the maintenance of their temples.

Having been to many different temples in throughout the world, I knew that I would see something different here in Mumbai. How ornate and elaborate it was, however, was a surprise to me and I loved the unique elegance of this place. It was no surprise to learn that this particular temple is renowned among the Jains for its unsurpassed beauty. Also, my visit left me wondering how I never knew this religion to exist. I am a well traveled person and am familiar with many religions and cultures yet, this one escaped me. Nonetheless, I was extremely grateful to be allowed to visit and learn something new and valuable.

Thank you Abdul!

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Chandabala Jain Temple

  • Address: 41 Walkeshwar Ridge Road, Malabar Hill, Mumbai
  • Hours: 0500-2100, daily
  • Admission: free

The Gandhi House

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Located on a pretty, tree-lined street in downtown Mumbai is the former home of one of the most famous people of India.

Mahatma Gandhi.

This was our second stop (if you don’t count shopping and a quick breakfast at Leopold’s) on our fast tour of Mumbai and I was very excited to see the house that Gandhi lived in and used as his headquarters from 1917 to 1934.

Mahatma Gandhi, who was born in 1869, in western India, was an Indian lawyer, anti-colonial nationalist and political ethicist who led the country to obtain their independence from British Rule. He led a very eventful life and is widely known around the globe even in death.

His home on Laburnum Road now acts as a museum and is free to visit. Upon entry, I discovered the small lobby of the museum, however, the majority of the first floor is used as a library, filled with books and manuscripts. There is a large bust of Gandhi, his many quotes emblazoned above the doorways and countless pictures line the walls.

Moving on to the second floor, up a staircase lined with photographs, I found the space which acted as Gandhi’s personal bedroom. Kept preserved in its original condition, his bed and charkha (spinning wheel) were kept as he left them and the space is protected by glass partitions. Also on the second floor is a photo gallery with snapshots of Gandhi’s life. There are also photos, letters and press releases on display for visitor’s to peruse.

The best part of the second floor, however, are the dioramas. These beautifully constructed scenes highlight important events and meetings in Gandhi’s life.

I later found that there is a rooftop terrace that is accessible, however, I do not remember finding an entrance. It was a beautiful day and I wish we had been able to ascend to a spot where I am sure that Gandhi spent his afternoons enjoying the sunshine.

Though my visit was rather short, this historic home had an amazing story to tell. It was most enjoyable walking through and discovering the space that such an important figure called home.

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Mani Bhavan

We Like Dirty Laundry

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The mysteries of India have always escaped me…until this year.

As I finally headed east, on a fifteen hour flight from New York to Mumbai, my mind pondered what I would discover. Would there be cows wandering the streets? A haze of pollution hovering over the city? Decrepit conditions throughout?

The preconceived notions of stories that I had heard about India filled my head and I must admit, I was a bit nervous.

Though it was a late night arrival at my hotel, I was up early and ready to meet my driver who was to take me to investigate some of the main sights of the city.

Pulling out into the streets, I was pleasantly surprised. The day was warm with clear skies and the roadways were not as busy as I had imagined early that morning. The streets were relatively clean and the architecture throughout was most intriguing. I loved speeding along the waterfront as I took in everything around me.

My driver, Abdul, asked me what destination was most important to me.

That was easy! The photographer in me wanted color and energy! I wanted to see what the locals did every day and something that was part of the local history.

Dhobi Ghat fit the bill.

Constructed in 1890, Dhobi Ghat is an open air laundromat that launders clothes and linens from Mumbai’s hotels, hospitals and garment dealers among others. The washing, done by dhobis (washer men) and their families, is executed in rows of open-air concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone which is used to agitate the items after they have been dipped in sudsy water. The washed items are then dried on rows and rows of clotheslines. After the drying has been completed, the clothes are neatly pressed and delivered to the owners.

There are specific tours that allow visitors a closer look at the action, however, time was limited and I was anxious to see as much of the city as I could during my short visit. As we stood on the platform adjacent to the flyover bridge of the Mahalaxmi Railway Station, I marveled at the spectacle below. Rows of colorful pieces of fabric filled the lines strung between the stalls where the dhobis work. Regretting that I had forgotten my larger camera with its telephoto lens, I aimed my Iphone and hoped that I would be able to capture the vibrant atmosphere.

Mahalaxmi Railway Station

The laundry is a flurry of activity for approximately 18-20 hours per day and is best viewed in the early morning and early afternoons when the facility is awash in color as the clothes hang to dry. Each dhobi uses his own the labor intensive system to sort, wash, hang and iron the pieces they are responsible for. Keeping track of the multiple pieces is done by codes imprinted on the back of the pieces and the gathering and return of the items is done by independent agents. It’s fascinating to witness!

Next time, I’m going back for the interior tour. Doing my own personal laundry is something is don’t care to do, but this inspired me!

I also realized something very important!

It’s actually not so bad getting multiple loads done in my washing machine and dryer after all!

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Dhobi Ghat Laundry

  • Address: Near Mahalaxmi Railway Station, Bapurao Jagtap Marg, Shanti Nagar, Lower Parel, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400034
  • Hours: Best viewed in the early morning and early afternoons.
  • Admission: Free, if viewed from the flyover bridge of the Mahalaxmi Railway station. Tours available from various companies.