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The mysteries of India have always escaped me…until this year.
As I finally headed east, on a fifteen hour flight from New York to Mumbai, my mind pondered what I would discover. Would there be cows wandering the streets? A haze of pollution hovering over the city? Decrepit conditions throughout?
The preconceived notions of stories that I had heard about India filled my head and I must admit, I was a bit nervous.
Though it was a late night arrival at my hotel, I was up early and ready to meet my driver who was to take me to investigate some of the main sights of the city.
Pulling out into the streets, I was pleasantly surprised. The day was warm with clear skies and the roadways were not as busy as I had imagined early that morning. The streets were relatively clean and the architecture throughout was most intriguing. I loved speeding along the waterfront as I took in everything around me.
My driver, Abdul, asked me what destination was most important to me.
That was easy! The photographer in me wanted color and energy! I wanted to see what the locals did every day and something that was part of the local history.
Dhobi Ghat fit the bill.
Constructed in 1890, Dhobi Ghat is an open air laundromat that launders clothes and linens from Mumbai’s hotels, hospitals and garment dealers among others. The washing, done by dhobis (washer men) and their families, is executed in rows of open-air concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone which is used to agitate the items after they have been dipped in sudsy water. The washed items are then dried on rows and rows of clotheslines. After the drying has been completed, the clothes are neatly pressed and delivered to the owners.
There are specific tours that allow visitors a closer look at the action, however, time was limited and I was anxious to see as much of the city as I could during my short visit. As we stood on the platform adjacent to the flyover bridge of the Mahalaxmi Railway Station, I marveled at the spectacle below. Rows of colorful pieces of fabric filled the lines strung between the stalls where the dhobis work. Regretting that I had forgotten my larger camera with its telephoto lens, I aimed my Iphone and hoped that I would be able to capture the vibrant atmosphere.
The laundry is a flurry of activity for approximately 18-20 hours per day and is best viewed in the early morning and early afternoons when the facility is awash in color as the clothes hang to dry. Each dhobi uses his own the labor intensive system to sort, wash, hang and iron the pieces they are responsible for. Keeping track of the multiple pieces is done by codes imprinted on the back of the pieces and the gathering and return of the items is done by independent agents. It’s fascinating to witness!
Next time, I’m going back for the interior tour. Doing my own personal laundry is something is don’t care to do, but this inspired me!
I also realized something very important!
It’s actually not so bad getting multiple loads done in my washing machine and dryer after all!
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Dhobi Ghat Laundry
- Address: Near Mahalaxmi Railway Station, Bapurao Jagtap Marg, Shanti Nagar, Lower Parel, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400034
- Hours: Best viewed in the early morning and early afternoons.
- Admission: Free, if viewed from the flyover bridge of the Mahalaxmi Railway station. Tours available from various companies.