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As we drove out of Tarangire National Park, one thing repeated itself over and over in my head.
“Sawa Sawa”.
A year ago, I didn’t know what the Swahili phrase meant. Now, if I am completing something, I hear Fahad’s throaty voice asking, “Sawa Sawa?”
Whenever we were out in one of the parks and we were ready to move on, Fahad would always ask in Swahili, “Sawa Sawa?” Though technically translated to English, it means “equal”, it also is means, “fine”, “all good” and “no worries” and what Fahad was asking was if we were ready to go.
Though we were not ready to move on, it was time for our adventure to end and time to return to Arusha, Nairobi and then home.
Driving through the park, heading to the exit, in order to make our way back to Arusha, we looked out at the elephants and giraffes, the baobab trees and the amazing landscapes that we had admired over the past week.
I definitely was not going miss the bumpy roads or the tsetse flies, but I would miss the beauty of each day, the animals, the scrumptious cuisine, our quaint lodges, local beer, our new friends, Mathilda (our 4×4), and, of course, Fahad.
I was going to miss Tanzania.
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Our first impression of Tarangire was a hot and sweaty one. Much more arid and dry than the other two parks, it was also sweltering and teeming with tsetse flies. The blue and black flags were present throughout the park and although they didn’t cause me much anguish, my travel mates suffered their piercing bites.
Throughout the park, male ostriches danced along, bobbing their bright pink necks with females remaining aloof. At one point, while driving along, we noticed what appeared to be a male ostrich resting in the grass. Waiting for it to rise, we soon noticed that it was not alone. Not only had we been fortunate to spy the mating ritual of lions while at Ngorongoro, but now, we were able to witness that of the ostrich!
A couple of hours into our trek, we made a stop at the African Galleria. Once we had utilized their facilities, we took a bit of time to walk around and inspect the amazing artwork. Yes, there were the normal masks, souvenirs and fabrics that you would find in any market, but there was also the most awe-inspiring carvings that I have ever seen. After spotting the most intricate piece of shaped wood, depicting migrating wildebeests, my curiosity got the best of me and I had to inquire about some of the prices.
On our first evening, in the waning light, we noticed Cape Buffalo foraging in the brush. A little later, a mountain reedbuck was grazing near our windows. So enthralled by this close-up encounter, I could have passed on dinner and watched this active display. No wonder there was no television and wifi available in our rooms! Also, in the middle of our first night, we were awakened by grunting and discovered zebras scratching their hind quarters on the lodge. The following evening, we were roused by the sound of a heavy movement through the brush. Two large elephant were walking near the top of the rim. It is a wonder that we actually got any sleep!
Passing the luxurious (and wildly expensive) Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, we knew we were almost there. Only six lodges sit on the crater rim, offering a bed capacity of only 560 along with sixteen campsites. Realizing how very few people are allowed here every night, it dawned on us what a privilege the journey was that we were about to undertake.
As our 4×4 climbed the steep road, we breathed a sigh of relief when we finally pulled into a parking area on the side of the road. This was it…our first view of Ngorongoro Crater!
Driving along the countless trails that span the crater floor, a female lion was spotted alongside the road. A few 4x4s stopped to admire her reserved beauty as she lounged in the heat of the new day. Soon, tiring of her grassy spot, she stood and ambled over to the road, making her way between two of the safari vehicles. Laziness prevailed and she quickly decided that the middle of the road was much better than her previous spot. Too bad for those trying to make their way!
Enjoying our breakfast, we marveled at our surroundings, basking in its endless beauty. I couldn’t stop watching the clouds rolling over the top of the crater, the succession of zebras that continued to make their way over the hill behind us and to the rear of the lake and the hippos that continued to laze in the murky waters. Honestly, I don’t know if I have ever been in a more beautiful place!
Our morning meal completed, we reluctantly moved on, migrating with the other vehicles along the dusty crater roads. Flightless male ostriches flaunted their pink necks and plumage and my favorite feathered creature in the crater, the Secretary Bird, made itself known throughout our journey.
As usual, our safari vehicle was the last to leave the area, but as we pulled away from the rest stop, my husband noticed movement in another cluster of trees. An enormous elephant moved out from the brush, exposing the largest set of tusks that we had ever seen. Estimated by our guide to be about sixty years old, he stayed near the tree line. As another vehicle pulled up to speak to our driver, we watched the old guy move away from the trees and slowly amble toward us. His gait was slow and tired but we soon noticed him picking up speed, realizing he was heading right for us! And…Fahad was not paying attention! “Fahad! Fahad!” We weren’t sure what was going to happen and we all ducked into the vehicle just as the senior mammoth reached us and bumped the back of our 4×4! As quickly as he came, he ambled away…”his fifth leg” swinging and obviously please with himself. Pulses beating rapidly, we drove away and allowed him to enjoy the rest of his day while we explored the Lerai Forest, home to the tall, slim yellow barked acacia trees.
While we waited for the others in our party to arrive, we mingled with the women as they decorated us with their beautiful, beaded collars. They sang songs and smiled at us while the men, practiced their dance moves. Soon, the others safari vehicles pulled under the acacia tree and our friends joined us for the show.
While the women provided the music, one of the men used the Greater Kudu, or horn and the other men formed lines, moving together and chanting rhythmically, “Oooooh-yah” with a growl and staccato cough. They thrust and withdrew their bodies, some jumping.
Eventually, we were gathered around two of the male villagers who proceeded to demonstrate how the Maasai make fire. With a bit of a breeze, conditions weren’t right and they were unsuccessful after two lengthy attempts. Clapping for their efforts, we then moved on to other parts of their village.
The schoolhouse was nearby and as we glanced into the small hut, the young children sang a song for us, recited their ABC’s and we inspected their lessons written on their chalkboard. Handing over the small gifts we had brought (pens, pencils and paper) to the schoolmaster, we were thanked profusely by everyone.
Exiting the huts, we saw many women and children who had not performed during our arrival, peeking out curiously at us. Shyly, they remained in the doorways of their huts where they could dart back in if a camera was raised.
Though we were not present for the great migration when the landscape may be dotted black from the large numbers of wildebeest, the views of the Serengeti from the top were awe inspiring! After the climb to the top, on the moderate trail, we were able to gaze out over the short, grassy plains while standing under the acacia trees which cover the summit. Since we had not booked the balloon safari, it was great to see from a different perspective what we had seen from the ground during the past few days.
The two square mile area is home to giraffes, elephants, antelope, lion, cheetah, vervet monkeys, wildebeest and zebras. There were also many small Agama lizards along the trail and a it is a great place for bird watching with many colorful starling and maribou storks soaring overhead.
For those wanting to stay in the area, there are a few lodges and camps; Sametu Camp for only 14 guests with a front row to superb, up-front, big cat viewing and roaring, nighttime bonfires. Serengeti Serena Lodge’s thatched, rondavel huts and manicured grounds. Four Seasons Lodge’s oasis of luxury with its infinity swimming hole overlooking a frequented watering hole and Private Mobile Camps with wildlife a few feet from its spacious tents.
