Tel Aviv – Snapping The Globe

Markets and Ancient Ports

For many years, it seemed like I visited Tel Aviv almost every month. Over time, however, I have decided to work shorter flights which suit my schedule a little bit better by not having the two night flights that Tel Aviv has.

When someone reached out to me in April, however, and wanted to swap two of my Rome trips for her Tel Aviv, it benefited me to take the swap and have the weekend that I was supposed to work off. Sounded like a good idea…and it was! I was excited to revisit the Mediterranean city to see some favorites and discover some new things!

Despite it being a holiday when we arrived, and finding everything closed, the next day was business as usual. After grabbing some falafel at my favorite place, I decided that I was going to get a lot of steps in, first heading to the Carmel Market.

The largest market in Tel Aviv was first opened in 1920, approximately eleven years after the establishment of the city. Located on one street which runs south from the junction of King George Street, Allenby and Sheinkin Street to the Carmelit Bus depot, it always hosts a bustling crowd, especially on Thursdays and Fridays, when locals are making their purchases for their family meals. Visitors should not be intimidated by the locals going about their business as the market also attracts tourists wishing to experience the sights, sounds and of course smells of the freshest fruit and vegetables, spices and other delectables in addition to those hoping to find unique souvenirs and clothing. I have always loved coming here, usually to purchase my olive oil but just for the overall experience!

On this day, however, I realized my mistake. Wanting to take a walk to the Old City of Jaffa, I could not purchase my olive oil as I would have to backtrack to my hotel to drop it off or carry the heavy purchase on this journey. Assuming I would have time later to return, I proceeded on to the second leg of my adventure.

To get to the Old City of Jaffa, it is about a thirty-seven minute walk and I decided that I would do it along the waterfront to enjoy the sights and smells of the sea. It was a beautiful April day and I was so thankful to be able to have the time to enjoy the lovely sunshine. It wasn’t long before I passed Charles Clore Park and the Haetzel Betashach Museum which focuses on the history of Etzel, the Hebrew acronym for the National Military Organization (one of the military groups who led the struggle for Israel’s independence). Only pausing to take a few photos of the outside of the museum, I continued on my way quickly arriving at landmark which marks the entrance to the ancient port city.

The Jaffa Clocktower.

Standing in the middle of the north end of Yefet Street, the limestone tower incorporates two clocks and a plaque commemorating the Israelis killed in the battle for the town in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War. It is one of seven clock towers built in Ottoman Palestine…only one of six that remain.

There was plenty of unique art and architecture to see along the way, but I was determined to make my way through the HaMuze’on Garden, past the Jaffa Theatre and to the Kdumim Visitor Center Square. St. Peter’s Church was on my list, however, I arrived to realize that I was between opening hours. Since it would require waiting for its reopening in a couple of hours, I decided to spend my time re-exploring the old port and seeking out some things in the nearby area.

Walking through the square, I made my way to the stairs leading through the garden and to the Wishing Bridge. I remember seeing this bridge a long time ago, but I had forgotten its meaning. I read the sign, “An ancient legend holds that anyone boarding the bridge holds the zodiac sign and looks at the sea – their wish will come true.” Naturally, I had lots of wishes, so I walked along the wooden walkway, studying each of the aged bronze zodiac signs that wrapped around its rails. Placing my hand on the Lion, Leo, I looked out to the sea and made my wish…wishes…hopefully it counted for more than one!

*The Wishing Brid*ge (as viewed from below)

Walking through the gardens, I appreciated the lush greenery, beautiful flora and sculptural works that filled the landscape. Eventually, I found the other notable item that I had come to see. The replica of ancient Egyptian Ramesses II gate. Without knowing the background, it seems rather unremarkable (and too new), but as I stood there taking photos, a gentleman asked me me what I knew of it. Such began a conversation with a local tour guide Haim Tamari. Mr. Tamari informed me that this replica supplants the original 13th century gate that was discovered in this spot and dates from the period of the rule of Ramesses II. The inscription on one of the gates includes on of the many honorific titles of Ramesses II. Work had recently been completed on the paved and hardscaped area around the gate.

Mr. Tamari and I walked together back to the square as the hour was approaching of the opening of the church. We talked of the history of the area and of my past visits to many parts of the country. Realizing that I was expecting a visit to St. Peter’s he continued on with his dialogue, expanding to the history of the church. He explained that this church was completed in 1894 but was preceded by another from the 16th century which was constructed as a church and inn for pilgrims on the ruins of an earlier temple. It was constructed here because it was in Jaffa that St. Peter raised Tabitha (one of Jesus’ disciples) from the dead (Acts of the Apostles, Acts 9:36-43, Acts 10:1-4) and it is dedicated to him. The church, facing west toward the sea, instead of east (like most churches) was situated on a hill serving as a beacon to pilgrims, signaling that the Holy Land was near.

Thankful that I now had a knowledgeable contact for future tours, I thanked him for sharing his company, conviviality and knowledge. He continued on to an appointment, bidding me a farewell and I took a seat outside the church’s iron gates, tall, brick façade and towering bell tower.

At three o’clock, the doors were opened and I and others who had also congregated at its opening, were ushered inside. As I made my way past each of the side altars, I took in the overall appearance of the church, with its dominant pastel-colored vaulted ceiling, stained glass and ochre marble walls. Taking a seat in one of the pews, I bent my head in prayer only to be distracted and then mesmerized by the pulpit, carved in the shape of a tree. As a tour group made their way inside, I listened as their leader spoke of its history, including an interesting tidbit about Napoleon, who was said to have lived in one of rooms of St. Louis’ citadel just outside and to the right of the sacristy while he was at St. Peter’s in 1799 during the French campaign in Egypt and Syria.

Finally, my visit to St. Peter’s complete, I exited and made my way through the stairways, alleyways and tunnels of Jaffa toward its port. Walking along the water’s edge, I passed cafes, studios, restaurants and mosques, reminding me that this was a city of more than one faith.

*The Sea Mosque (where the city’s Muslim sailors and fisherman prayed before going to sea)*

After such a long day, it was time to start the long walk back to my hotel. Arriving almost an hour later, with aching feet, I realized that it was time to grab that nap for the dreaded overnight flight home. Reflecting on my cultural and historically filled day, I realized that I had been missing out on the amazing opportunities that Tel Aviv affords for the lack of sleep. Yes, despite the nap I was getting ready to take, it was going to be a long night home…but definitely worth it.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Carmel Market

https://www.touristisrael.com › carmel-market-tel-aviv › 4433
Address: HaCarmel Street 48, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Hours: Summer, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1800), Friday, 0700-afternoon (closing begins two hours before Shabbat comes in). Winter, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1600), Friday, 0700-afternoon (two hours before Shabbat comes in).
Admission: free

Jaffa Clocktower

https://www.jaffaclocktower.com/
Address: Yefet Street 14, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

St. Peter’s Church

https://stpetersjaffa.com/
Address: Tel-Aviv-Yafo, Israel, 1
Hours: Daily, 0900-1145 and 1500-1700
Admission: free

Let Me Tell You About Tel Aviv

One of the biggest surprises in my life was visiting Tel Aviv.

Knowing virtually nothing about the country of Israel at the time, I swapped onto a Tel Aviv trip thinking that it was another, Istanbul, since the rotation numbers were very similar. My husband, under the impression that it was unsafe to travel there, had previously warned me about bidding or swapping onto the trip, so, when I realized my mistake, I flew into a panic.

Secretly, I really wanted to go there, but I was in turmoil as to how I should I handle it? Should I lie to my husband and tell him I was traveling elsewhere? Should I honor his wishes and re-swap the trip for another? Should I tell him about it?

Finally, I decided to come clean. Admitting my mistake, I expressed my wish to keep the trip. I certainly did not want something to happen to me and have him find out I was there in that fashion.

Years after flying that trip and visiting Tel Aviv and Jerusalem for the first time, I still think about that experience; how I almost gave up one of the most amazing experiences for the unfounded wishes of another.

Today, I still enjoy visiting Tel Aviv as much as those first few times. Back then, it was still so new and exciting to tell people that I was visiting a place that few people I knew would ever go. Now, I enjoy visiting because it’s so familiar; my favorite restaurants, bars, nightclubs, markets, tours, beaches.

My husband still gives me a hard time.

This past weekend, I went to Tel Aviv for the first time in two years. It wasn’t that I didn’t want to visit…recently, when I had been awarded the trip, I needed time off or had something else that needed taking care of. It’s also a hard trip to work…long flight hours, two all-nighter flights and a sometimes demanding clientele.

We arrive late in the afternoon, and after working more than 11 hours, we are quite exhausted. The trick to this late arrival is to keep on going. So, after a quick shower and change, we meet up for happy hour and a nice dinner…and sometimes dancing! Yes, the nightlife here is amazing with some outstanding bars and clubs.

Having a strong desire to see what the country of Israel has to offer, I usually book a tour for the next day, even knowing how tired I will be after touring all day and then having to work a 12 hour flight home. I have visited the cities of Caesarea, Acre, Megiddo, Haifa, Galilee, Nazareth, Jerusalem, Masada and swam in the Dead Sea…sometimes on more than one occasion. Visiting the many historical and biblical sights, one realizes why so many Christians make the pilgrimage to this country.

One city, that I had never had the opportunity to visit, was Bethlehem. A tour of the birthplace of Jesus had been on my agenda for this layover, but realizing that there were many things that needed accomplishing, I decided that postponing the tour until another time would be best.

Catching up on my sleep, I got a somewhat late start to my day. After finally opening my balcony window and seeing the oceanfront view and the beautiful sunny weather awaiting me, however, I quickly got a move on.

Wandering over to my favorite falafel place, Yashka Shawarma and Grill, I found that they had done a bit of remodeling, but the falafel pita was still as good as I remembered. I also love the wide array of salads available with your food! Cabbage and beets? Never was a fan until I came to Israel!

Walking down, Dizengoff Street, I discovered a unique and colorful fountain, which I had never seen before. I stopped to appreciate the dancing water and accompanying music for a few minutes. Located on a pedestrian bridge, many people seem to congregate here to enjoy the view.

My next stop was the Dizengoff Shopping Center to purchase a bracelet charm. Having to wait in line at the mall entrance and then have your bags searched, really makes one appreciate the freedom that we enjoy in our own countries. Knowing that this is for everyone’s safety, the locals seem to take it all in stride and patiently wait their turn.

Making my way down King George street, I soon found myself at my final destination; the Carmel market.

The Carmel market is an amazing assault on your senses and pocketbook. There are clothes, purses and jewelry to buy on one end and tons of fresh vegetables, desserts, juices, fresh fish and other food items on the other. You can get a suitcase or skincare products…you name it…it’s there. After saying hello to my friend, Leon, who sells Dead Sea skin products, I set about finding the olive oil that I had come searching for. Three bottles later, my purse was so heavy, I decided that a detour to the hotel would be in order.

Not quite ready to call it a day, I dropped my purchases in my room and headed out toward the beach area. My favorite bike rental place, Pinky’s, closed a few years ago, so for the first time, I used the Tel-O-Fun bike rental kiosk, closest to my hotel, to rent one of the bikes available throughout the area. The bikes are rented thru a credit card swipe and rates vary according to time used.

Riding down the promenade toward Jaffa, the walkway was crowded with both Israelis and tourists, enjoying the 70 degree weather, clear skies and ocean view. Soon arriving in the old port city, I stopped to admire the sweeping view of the city of Tel Aviv and the occasional fisherman hoping to secure dinner.

Having visited Jaffa many times, I decided to ride along the waterfront to the port located at the rear of the city, stopping occasionally for the many pictures that present themselves along the way. The numerous restaurants, here on the waterfront, were bustling with patrons enjoying fresh seafood and Mediterranean fare and the art galleries were teeming with customers.

After retracing my steps, I walked my bicycle to the main street. Here you will find the Jaffa flea market, home to a treasure trove of antiques and handmade and secondhand items. Take the time to explore the many alleyways, covered walkways and outdoor verandas that have been operating for more than 100 years. There are many souvenir shops and clothing stores to satisfy the most discerning shopper and many restaurants to satisfy any foodie’s cravings.

Here on the main street, one can also gaze upon the clock tower that greets visitors at the entrance to Jaffa. The clock tower is one of seven built in Palestine during the Ottoman period. The others are located in Safed, Acre, Nazaret, Haifa, Nabius (West Bank) and Jerusalem, the last being the only that has not survived. The tower stands in the middle of Yefet street at the northern entrance to Jaffa. Made of limestone, it incorporates two clocks and a plaque commemorating the Israelis killed in the battle for the town in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War.

Finally, as the afternoon was drawing to a close, I began to make my way back down the beach toward my hotel. Knowing that my time in Tel Aviv was ending, I stopped many times to watch the glowing sun as it dipped into the sea.

Later that evening, as we headed to the airport for the long return home, I realized how grateful I was that I, once again, have had the opportunity to return to this intriguing country.
For more pictures of Tel Aviv and Jaffa, please check out my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, Snapping the Globe.

Yashka Shawarma and Grill
Dizengoff Street, 105 (corner of Frishman and Dizengoff)
Try the falafel pita

Carmel Market
Location: Extends the length of HaCarmel Street, from Magen David Square to the end of Carm lit, and across the nearby streets of the Keren Ha Teimanim neighborhood and Nahalan Binyamin pedestrian mall.
Hours: Sunday to Thursday from 8 am until sundown and Friday from 8 am until 2 pm.
Transportation: From the New Central Bus Station: Dan Bus lines 4 or 205. Public taxi minibuses 4 or 5 to Allenby Street. From Central Train Station: Dan Bus lines 18, 61 or 82. From University Train Station: Dan Bus lines 24 or 25.
Parking: Ahuzat HaHof Carmel-Kalisher Street, corner with HaCarmel Street. Pay lot with 313 spaces.
ATMs and public restrooms available.

Tel-O-Fun Bikes https://www.tel-o-fun.co.il/en/
Cost: Access Fee plus Hourly rental
Daily Access Fee 17 ILS
Daily Access Fee-Saturdays and Public Holidays 23 ILS
Weekly Access Fee 70 ILS
Annual Access Fee 280 ILS
Cumulative time from rental beginning:
Up to 30 minutes 0 ILS
Up to 60 minutes 6 ILS
Up to 90 minutes 12 ILS
Up to 150 minutes 32 ILS
Up to 210 minutes 72 ILS
Up to 270 mintes 153 ILS
Please note: Allow time to watch the video for instructions on returning the bike and allow time to find an alternate location for bike return. When arriving at my original location, I watched the video but did not realize that the rod that is to be inserted into the bike to lock it, was not working (wire tie prevents it from being inserted all the way in). I had already pressed the button to return the bike, so the bike could not be returned to a different stall or a different location. Thankfully, a gentleman and his wife came to my assistance, calling the Tel-O-Fun office for me. A code was given to unlock the bike, allowing the proper return procedures.

Jaffa Flea Market
Hours: Open 6 days a week, from Sunday through Friday, from morning through early evening hours.