Category: Machu Picchu

The Incan Citadel

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Set high in the Andes Mountains of Peru, above the Urubamba River valley, lies an Incan citadel…

Machu Picchu.

A destination on so many’s bucket list, it had topped mine for a long time.

Finally, my day had come.

Leaving our larger backpacks at our Aguas Calientes hotel, we packed only the necessities in our travel packs and set out into the dark to make our way to Avenida Hermanos Ayar for the start of an exciting day.

5:00 am…a line was snaking its way down the street.  Taking our place, we looked back a few minutes later to see the line had grown significantly.   Soon, a person came by to verify our bus tickets and our entrance tickets.

5:25 am…the first of the buses began to position themselves for their first riders.

5:35 am…we were on our way.

The half hour journey followed the Urubamba River until reaching a bridge crossing.  Here, we began the back and forth climb to the top of the mountain, passing the occasional groups that decided to forego the bus and make the hour and a half climb to the citadel.

As we disembarked and made our way to the entrance, there were many guides seeking to assist visitors.  Although we had originally thought we would hire a guide, when we finally made a decision on one particular person, someone hired them before we could.  We finally decided to tour the premises on our own, a decision I realized would probably benefit me more than my husband.  When I am trying to capture a place photographically, I always feel a bit disrespectful when I am shooting while they are speaking, however, if I don’t capture what I want to and we quickly move on, I feel a bit cheated.  Since, it would have been just him and I, it would have been more evident that I was only half listening than when we were part of a group.

Walking the paths onto the grounds with no map, we followed the masses trying to decipher which way to go…and there it was…our first glimpse of the ancient Incan citadel.

Built in the 15th century, Machu Picchu was renowned for the complicated building system of huge stone blocks that fit together intricately with no mortar.  With deep foundations and tight formations, the buildings are earthquake prone and for good measure…Machu Picchu sits atop not only one, but two fault lines.

The citadel was built high in the mountains offering panoramic views, though its exact use remains a mystery.  Some historians believe that Machu Picchu was constructed during the rule of two great Incas, Pachacutec Inca Yupanqui and Tupac Inca Yupanqui, with it being built as a royal estate for the former.  Used only for 80 years, there is the possibility that the inhabitants died suddenly from disease.   When Hiram Bingham III stumbled upon the ruins in 1911, he was actually in search of the city of Vilcabamba and he spent most of his life arguing that the cities were one in the same.  Not the first to discover the ruins, however, Bingham was the first scientific discoverer to bring international attention to Machu Picchu and undertake major clearing and excavation.

Some visitors to Machu Picchu come to honor the sacred temple and others are fascinated by its historical significance.  Still, there are others that hope to benefit from the powerful energy believed to emit from the ruins.

Me?  I was here for a check on my Bucket List and amazing photos!

As we made our way up the Cultivation Terraces, we found our way to the City Gate and then on to the Cemetery, Funerary Rock and the House of the Guardians, finding that some amazing views of Machu Picchu can be had here.

 

 

Taking a trail through the brush, we hiked for a while, gazing down the steep drop offs to the river below as we sought out the Inca Bridge.  Finally, after about a thirty minute hike, we found the bridge, some old boards, spanning a gap alongside the cliffs.  No access was allowed, with a locked wooden gate barring any entry to the area, but noting the poor ancient construction, I was happy to maintain my distance.

Turning, we made our way back the way we had come.

Half an hour later, we returned to find an even greater number of people on the premises, making descent to the lower portion of Machu Picchu difficult.  Spying llama nearby, we used them as a distraction for a while to rest up for the fight down the stairways.

Finally, after our descent, we encountered the Urban Area and parts of the complex including Nusta’s Bedroom, Temple of the Sun, Royal Tomb, Ritual Fountains and The Royal Palace.  Though many of the outlying buildings have been reconstructed to give visitors a better idea of how they originally appeared, only about thirty percent of the archaeological area has been restored with renovation continuing.

Following the crowds, we made our way past the Temple of the Three Windows, the Main Temple and the Main Square with park directors keeping everyone on the path and moving in one direction.  Eventually, we made it to the Sacred Rock and noticed the entrance to Huayna Picchu, the starting point to an arduous climb to the soaring pinnacle.  Though we had had the opportunity to purchase tickets for the climb, staring up at this peak and the minuscule figures making their way up the steep paths, we were glad that we had skipped that part.  Though I am not afraid of heights, I couldn’t image making my way up to the top…I was having trouble with the lack of oxygen in the higher altitudes on some of the simpler paths.

Heading back in the direction of the main entrance, we made our way through the Houses of Factories, the Industrial Zone and the Prisoner’s Area, stopping occasionally to snap photos of the ruins and the nearby peaks, that were making themselves more visible with the clearing skies.

Eventually, all good things must come to an end and the path did just that…

Stepping out of the authorized grounds, we took the opportunity to utilize the facilities, stamp our passports with the official Machu Picchu stamp and grab something to drink while taking in the large numbers of visitors continually arriving and departing.

Our wait wasn’t long for the bus back to Aguas Calientes and we were soon winding back and forth down the mountain.

Back in town, we found a nice place along the river to have lunch and enjoy cuy for the first time since we had arrived in Peru.  Not the full fledged roasted affair, this one was prepared fried and was extremely delicious!  As we enjoyed our meal, the skies opened up, making us extremely glad that we had departed Machu Picchu when we did.

Had we actually done it?  Yes, we had made the long arduous journey all the way to the center of the mountains of Peru and visited the UNESCO World Heritage Site that many aspire to.

Thinking back to two conversations that I had had with friends who had once visited, I wondered if I had missed something critical.  These friends both intimated that Machu Picchu was life changing.  I understand that everyone’s definition of the terms is subjective and dependent on other things they have experienced in their lives.  I asked my husband, “Did you think this was life changing?”  Though he agreed with me, we were extremely happy with our visit, for us, we didn’t equate the definition with our experience.

After a lifetime of saying he would never set foot on the African continent, my husband not only ventured there, but enjoyed it so immensely that he continually talks about returning.  That is life changing.

Not to take anything away from Machu Picchu or anyone else’s adventure, we have to admit that the Incan citadel is a trip that everyone should take during some part of their lives.  A beautiful ancient civilization, it’s setting far away from modern life lets everyone stop and imagine how simple yet complex life once was.

Life changing?  Yes, for the Incas.

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Machu Picchu

  • http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe/
  • Hours:  0600-1800, daily, including public holidays, Christmas and New Years.
  • Admission:  Nationals, 60 Soles (about $18 US), Foreign Visitors, 152 Soles (about $45 US)  Tickets can be purchased from the Ministerios website or Decentralized Offices Department of Culture (Cusco), Main office Cusco – Calle Garcilaso SN – Museo Casa Garcilaso (L-S 7:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.), except Sundays and holidays and Office Machu Picchu Pueblo – Cultural Center (L-D 5:15 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.) every day.  Tickets are for entry in the morning or afternoon only.  Passports or ID card required for entry.
  • Getting There:  From Lima, airline travel to Cusco.  From Cusco, travel to Aguas Calientes on Peru Rail or Inca Rail.  In Aguas Calientes, bus tickets are required for transportation to Machu Picchu or hiking the steep trail for one and a half hours.

Air Travel from Lima to Cusco

  • Many airlines fly from Lima to Cusco frequently throughout the day.  Check the websites for LC Peru, Avianca, LATAM, Star Peru and Peruvian Airlines.

Peru Rail

Inca Rail

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Inter Bank, Cusco

  • Address:  Av. El Sol, 380, Cusco
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday, 0900-1300, 1400-1800, Saturday, 0900-1300
  • Ticket Prices:  Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single.  Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
  • Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only.  Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Aguas Calientes (Bus Stop)

  • Address:  Av. Hermanos Ayar S/N
  • Hours:  Monday-Sunday, 0500-2100
  • Ticket Prices:  Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single.  Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
  • Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only.  Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Machu Picchu

  • Address:  Bus Stop
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday, 0730-1730
  • Ticket Prices:  Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single.  Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
  • Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only.  Passports or national ID required for purchase.

 

Training Days

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are three ways to get to Machu Picchu.

Hiking the Inca Trail.

By private van or bus to the town of Hydroelectrico and hike three hours.

By train.

Perusing the different options, we immediately knew that on our vacation, we didn’t want to do any major hiking, not knowing how we would react to the altitude.  So, train it was!

Having opted to catch the train from the nearby Poroy Station, we set out early in the morning by taxi.  As we neared the station, our cab driver attempted to communicate with us and with his limited Spanish, we were concerned that he was lost.  Finally, as we pulled into the station parking lot, we learned that he wanted to know our return time the next night so he could pick us up.  As I negotiated the price, I felt some relief knowing that upon our arrival, we would not have to hope for transportation back to our hotel.

With plenty of time to spare, we bought waters and made ourselves as comfortable as possible, watching the boarding process for the Explorer train, leaving a bit earlier than ours.  We had packed light, discovering that Peru Rail, prefers smaller bags and left the our larger bags checked at our hotel, which we would return to the next night, yet it was interesting to see others with larger suitcases.  Maybe they were staying in Aguas Calientes for a longer period of time.  Maybe they don’t know how to pack light.  Still, it was freeing to be traveling with only a backpack.   Eventually, our departure time neared and we took our place in line, eager to see what the Vistadome train offered.

Having assigned seating provided no stress about finding seats together and we were excited to see the seats across the table unoccupied.  As the train pulled out from the station, we were tired from our long day in the Sacred Valley, our short night and were eager to get more sleep.  We soon found our curiosity about the surrounding countryside superseded the need to doze.

The train was extremely comfortable with large, leather seats, lots of leg room and huge windows, offering spectacular views of the passing scenery.  Not long after our departure, the crew came into the aisle, giving me momentary pause, reminding me of my own job.  Snacks and beverages were offered and were quite delicious.

After everything was cleared away, I marveled at the towns we glided by and the people going about their daily routines…traditionally dressed women, children walking to school, villagers working in the fields and hikers and sherpas and hikers setting out on the Inca trail.

Soon, we neared Ollantaytambo and the train slowed, pulling into the station.  Though we had been able to enjoy our table alone for the first part of the journey, we were soon joined by a couple from Spain.  Though pleasantries were exchanged at their arrival, it was evident that their English was not good enough to maintain a conversation, so I occupied myself with trying to capture what I was seeing on my camera.

Almost four hours from the start of our journey in Poroy, we felt the train slowing once again as we pulled into the station at Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchy Station.  So excited to begin our exploration of a new part of Peru, we grabbed our bags and headed out, eager to see what this small town had to offer.

Flash forward…after exploring Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, we returned to the Machu Picchu station for our return to Cusco.

The train station was quite busy and a little confusing.  My husband and I were not sure if we were in the correct boarding spot and had to verify with station personnel.

Finally, we boarded and made ourselves comfortable in our seats at the middle of the train.  The other couple sharing our table was from England, most interesting to chat with and we were able to compare stories of our time at Machu Picchu.

As with our trip to Aguas Calientes, complimentary sandwiches and beverages were offered and later, alcoholic beverages and snacks were available for purchase.

Once the trolleys were put away, we were informed that we would be treated to a fashion show.  Our attendants came through the aisles, one at a time, wearing alpaca sweaters, shawls, capes and scarves.  They demonstrated the flexibility of each piece, which were also available for sale.

Deciphering an announcement made over the P.A., I understood something about a demon.  A little confused, I looked at my husband, and told him that I must have misunderstood what I was hearing.  Music began to play and a brightly garbed character wearing a demonic mask with long, blonde hair came running from the galley, dancing and leaping through the aisle.

What we learned from this amusing spectacle is that it is called, The Diablada or Danza de los Diablos (Dance of the Demons), an original dance from Peru and Bolivia which is characterized by the mask and devil suit worn by the performer.  It is a religious, theatrical dance honoring spirits and used as a symbol for the country’s indigenous cultural identity.

Since it had grown darker outside and we were unable to see the beautiful scenery, it was a welcome distraction.  We clapped and laughed at the demon’s antics and enjoyed his dances with various patrons.

Finally, the train slowed and we were arriving in Cusco.

Our driver was waiting with our name on a sign and as exhausted as we were from our extended day, we were glad that we had arranged to have him there to greet us.

Many people want the entire experience of hiking to Machu Picchu, although this is not for everyone, especially those with mobility issues.  Though I think it would have been a unique adventure, I am not sure I would have enjoyed the hiking portion, probably arriving at Machu Picchu much too exhausted to actually enjoy it.

Anyone who wants to visit Machu Picchu should consider the one of the train lines for at least half of the trip, very efficient and comfortable, it was absolutely worth the price of a ticket!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Peru Rail

Inca Rail