In addition to beaches, Aruba is filled with farms and sanctuaries…donkeys, ostriches, birds and butterflies!
During our stay we had already visited the donkeys and the ostriches so naturally, butterflies were next on our list .
First, however, there were a few places we wanted to see.
The capital of Aruba, Oranjestad is named after “Huis van Oranje’ (Orange House), the name of the Dutch Royal Family in 1824 during the Dutch colonization. This downtown area is filled with plenty of traditional Dutch multicolored buildings, museums, restaurants and shops scattered through Main Street, the Royal Plaza Mall and Renaissance Marketplace.
Finding a parking space in the downtown area is a challenge, but after a little back and forth, we finally secured a spot. Parking near the National Archaeological Museum of Aruba put us near many of these architectural gems as well as the Wharfside Flea Market, where we perused the stalls looking for Aruban souvenirs and treasures.
A quick six minute walk brought us to the I Love Aruba Sign on Lloyd G. Smith Boulevard the perfect place for souvenir pics! While this particular sign is convenient for cruise ship passengers…Promenade Cruise Port is located adjacently…there are a few other signs located throughout the island (Parliament House, Senor Frog’s, Hadicurari Beach) if you don’t happen to visit downtown Oranjestad.
Jumping back in our car, we headed back toward Palm Beach and made a quick stop at The Old Mill. Known as De Oude Molen, it was built back in 1804 in the Netherlands, meticulously taken apart, shipped to and reconstructed in Aruba in 1960. Planned as a tourist attraction, a new base was constructed and a restaurant ensconced within. Today, The Old Mill is still a top tourist attraction as well as a museum, resort and a top dining option. While we found the museum and restaurant closed due to the early hour, we were able to peek inside at the dining facility which is decorated with furniture and paintings dating between 880 and 1800.
Finally, we headed (almost next door) to the Butterfly Farm. Opened in 1999, it was preceded by the first Butterfly Farm, located in Saint Martin and established in 1994. Located on the French side of the island, it was designed and built by two eccentric Englishmen, William Slayter and John Coward.
Aruba Butterfly Farm
Discovering success on Saint Martin, five years later, Slayter decided to open another farm in Aruba. While the farm in Aruba has thrived, sadly, the farm in Saint Martin was destroyed by the category five hurricane, Irma in September 2017.
After purchasing our admission, we were able to join a tour that was about to begin. Here, we found ourselves in a net-enclosed miniature rain forest filled with beautiful flowers, plants and trees…the perfect home for butterflies!
From our guide, we learned about the evolutionary cycle from microscopic eggs, to to caterpillars, to pupae. We were also instructed on how to handle the butterflies and caterpillars and those with brightly colored clothing and citrus scented perfumes were lucky enough to attract these beautiful creatures!
Once our tour was complete, we were welcomed to stay as long as we wanted. While it was warm and humid inside (the perfect environment), we walked around for quite some time, enjoying the beauty of these beautiful winged creatures as they flitted around from leaf to leaf and branch to branch and dined on sugar water and fruit.
While I would have loved to continue our theme of “farms and sanctuaries” and checked out the Bubali Bird Sanctuary, this was our last full day in Aruba that was not going to be strictly a beach day. The next day was to be spent in the sun with our feet in the sand and toes in the water! While birds would be flying overhead, this would be as close as we would come to Aruba’s flying friends!
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I Love Aruba Sign
Address: Lloyd G. Smith Boulevard 19, Oranjestad, Aruba
Heading so far south into New Mexico had me wondering if we had made the right decision going so far out of our way. But, I was told we couldn’t miss one of the state’s natural wonders…
Carlsbad Caverns.
As we headed farther south, we noticed fields of oil wells pumping out their liquid gold, so it was no surprise upon our arrival that many of the hotels, ours included, catered to long-term guests in the petroleum industry. This meant, however, that we were able to secure a larger room with a kitchen and an early breakfast in the morning as many of these workers make these hotels their home away from home.
Since Carlsbad Caverns was located about 20 miles southwest of the city center, we were packed up and grabbing a bite to eat with the oil field workers so that we could make our arrival before the opening of the Visitor’s Center. Even though it wasn’t yet the height of tourist season, we anticipated a large number of visitors and wanted to be one of the first in line since we had only half a day to experience the caverns and then make it to our next destination, over three hours away.
Winding our way up to the Visitor’s Center, we secured a parking spot and found ourselves fifth in line. As anticipated, by the time the doors were unlocked, a line snaked to the parking lot behind us. Using our America the Beautiful Pass for admission, we also signed up and paid for the ranger-led tour of the King’s Palace, a part of the caverns off limits except when accompanied by park personnel. We also opted to hike to the cavern entrance instead of taking the elevators. At the time, I really did not have an opinion about either, however, being accompanied by my son, he insisted that we hike, a decision I would later appreciate.
Since we were told we were unable to enter the cavern for another half hour, we spent some time inspecting the museum exhibits. As the appointed time neared, we all gathered near the door, expecting a ranger to come over and unlock it or have it magically swing open. When this didn’t happen, we all paced and glanced at our watches, thinking that our precious time in the cavern was dwindling. Eventually, my son tried the door, finding it unlocked! Yes, we were unable to go to the cavern until 0830, however, we all could have walked the trail to the starting point! What do they say about sheep and the cliff?
When we reached the gathering point, a ranger greeted us and gave us some important information about our trek. From here, we would walk to the cavern entrance a short distance away and after our visit, we could either hike back out or take the elevator back to the Visitor’s Center.
And so it began.
As we started our walk, we soon saw the giant, dark, gaping maw that was the access to the caverns. Much larger than I ever anticipated, I watched the bats circling near and from the entrance as we walked back and forth along the hairpin trail into the abyss. One thing we had learned from the ranger was that during the evening, the park hosts its nightly Bat Program which allows visitors to experience the wonder of thousands of bats flying out of the cavern and into the night sky (April to October) from the amphitheater at sunset. With regret, we wished that we had known of this event so that we could have journeyed here the night before. On this day, however, we would have to be content to watch the bats flying to and fro above our heads.
Cold and damp, we were glad that we had opted to don pants and pullovers and of course sneakers for the loose gravel and dirt path. Into the darkness, we proceeded, following the 1.25 mile Natural Entrance Trail and the occasional sign directing us to specific items to note. Extremely steep, we lost about 750 feet…equivalent to walking up or down a 75-story building…for about an hour.
As we made our way, we reflected on the fact that this was what sixteen-year old Jim White first experienced in 1898 when he stumbled upon one of the largest cave systems in the world, Carlsbad Caverns. Here, while we had explicitly placed lighting, well-maintained trails and a cafeteria a short distance away, he had explored with homemade torches, string to find his way back, food and water.
Little by little, he and a friend mapped the enormous caving system, naming each of the areas with monikers of what it reminded him of. Whale’s Mouth, with its draperies and flowstone, The Green Lake Room for its, yes, green lake, The Lion’s Tail for its stalactite and popcorn and the Temple of the Sun with its tall columns, stalactites and stalagmites.
Whale’s MouthOld Staircase
Finally, we approached the Big Room. Glancing at our watches, we had a decision to make…head left toward the cafeteria to await our tour of the King’s Palace or keep going a short distance and then return the way we had come at our tour’s appointed time. Opting for the second choice, we continued through the impressive large limestone chamber, which is almost 4,000 feet long, 625 feet wide and 255 feet tall at its highest point. The fifth largest chamber in North America, it is also the twenty-eighth largest in the world. Following the snaking loop trail, we skirted thousands of rock formations, delicate sculptures, columns, cave bacon and popcorn, tubes, spires, fossils, ribbons, drapes, curtains, stalagmites, helictites, stalactites, totem poles, flowstone, soda straws and more all in the 357,469 square feet of the Big Room. As mesmerized as we were, we had to turn back to meet our guide, however, we knew that we would come this way again, shortly.
Gathering in the cafeteria area (which was not in operation at the time), we joined about thirty other visitors and our ranger for what was to be a one and a half hour, 1 mile guided tour through four highly decorated cave chambers into the deepest portion of the cavern…830 feet beneath the earth’s surface.
Following our ranger down an 80 foot descent, we marveled at the details and rooms for which Jim White had named the King’s Palace for its opulence. Listening to stories about the cave’s geology and early explorer’s experiences, we made our way through the first of the four chambers known as the scenic rooms, which contains a spectacular large castle-like formation in the center of the 100-foot tall expanse.
King’s Chamber
Continuing on to the Papoose Room, located between the King’s Palace and the Queen’s Chamber, we entered a small room which was similar in context to the King’s Palace. Hundreds of impressive stalactites clung from the ceiling and stalagmites sprouted from the ground.
Papoose Room
Next was the Queen’s Chamber, considered the most beautiful of the four scenic caves, with its highlight being the 40-foot tall floor to ceiling drapery column and the delicate formations resembling lace and filigree.
Queen’s Drapery ColumnQueen’s Chamber
Finally, we headed back through the King’s Chamber on our way to the final chamber in the assemblage, the Green Lake Room, passing the Bashful Elephant, which indeed, does appear to be a small elephant viewed from its rear. The Green Lake Room is the uppermost of the four rooms and named after the deep, malachite colored lake in the corner of the room. An interesting tale was related by our guide about how in the 1940s, the military, using the caverns as an emergency fallout shelter, used the lake to look for ripples caused by an atomic bomb test miles away. As none ever appeared, it was believed that Green Lake Room could be a viable shelter in case of a nuclear attack.
Bashful ElephantGreen Lake Room
Finally, after hearing many tales of Jim White’s explorations, we were all seated on a bench. Our ranger asked us to completely turn off our cellphones and then he proceeded to shut off all lights in the chamber. At this moment, you realize that you have never experienced total darkness, even when you thought you had…at night…in your bedroom. This was something different…until I moved my arm and my Apple Watch gave the area around us a greenish glow, flashing 11:25. Embarrassed for ruining the moment, I quickly removed my watch and placed it under my leg! However, for the mistake, it did give us a small glimpse of how Jim White might have viewed the space with a single candle.
Making our way back to the tour starting point, we then resumed our explorations of the Great Room back from the spot we had left earlier. There was much to see including the Stone Lily Pads, table-like shelf stone formations at the edge of a now dry pool, the Silent Bell, the Crystal Spring Dome which is the largest active stalagmite in the cavern and having a bell-like appearance, the Rock of Ages, a huge column, the Chinese Theater, which contains beautiful columns stalactites and stalagmites and the Dolls Theater, a recessed area with soda straws and small columns.
Bottomless Pit
Cave BaconMirror LakeStone Lily PadsSilent BellRock of AgesDolls TheaterChinese Theater
All in all, our trek throughout the three miles of rooms and passageways of the main cavern took us much longer than expected. The sheer size of the cavern was unlike anything we had ever experienced and it was mind blowing that there are still parts undiscovered and more than 27 miles of passages are not open to the public! There were times when my mind began to wander, thinking that if an earthquake would suddenly happen in this area while we were so far below ground…I had to redirect my thoughts because, well, I just couldn’t fathom the consequences!
Finishing our circuit, we found ourselves back at the elevators and waited patiently for our return to the Visitor’s Center and civilization!
With our tour of what some call “one of the seven wonders of the world”, we headed back to Carlsbad in anticipation of the next leg of our journey.
Returning north, we headed toward Artesia where we took a westerly turn. A short time after our turn onto Route 82, I spotted an enormous sculpture resembling an oil rig. Anxious to get to our destination, but also curious about what it was, I made a U-turn and parked. While the city also boasts one of the best collections of bronze sculptures in the area and a diverse public mural program which celebrate its rich history, this major piece of sculptural work is the one to see if you only have time to devote to a single piece. The Derrick Floor, is dedicated “to the men and women who take risks and do the work to find, produce and refine New Mexico oil and gas.” The drilling rig is a 34-foot high cast with a four man crew created in 125 percent life size scale and sits in a pool of cascading water. It was designed by Vic Payne and dedicated in April of 2004.
My curiosity sated, we headed back to the road and continued our journey west through Lincoln National Forest toward Alamogordo and White Sands. Though most of our journey in New Mexico had been through dry, scrubby barren land, we welcomed the change of scenery as the landscape changed to a lush mountainous and forested region. Though there wasn’t much to see, besides a couple of shops and not many places to stop (plan your bathroom breaks accordingly), we finally emerged on the far side to some amazing mountainous overlooks in Cloudcroft. Happy for the opportunity to stretch our legs we pulled over to take a few photos.
Alamogordo welcomed us with a hot dry wind. As we glanced out toward the area where White Sands National Park was located, we could see a haze in the air and I wondered if conditions would make our planned excursion the next day a no-go. But first, in order for that excursion to take place, we had one thing to do.
Find some snow saucers and ski wax!
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Address: 3225 National Parks Highway, Carlsbad , New Mexico 88220
Hours: Visitor’s Center, 0800-1700, daily. Last cavern entrance ticket sold, 1415. Last cavern entrance, 1430. Elevator into the cavern, 0830-1430. Last elevator out of the cavern, 1645. Hike into the cavern, 0830-1430, Last time to hike out of the cavern, 1530 (complete hike out by 1630). National park closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free entry for America the Beautiful Pass and other passes (see website for more information).
Admission: Adults (16 years and older), $15.00, Children (under 16 years), free.
In 1885, Thomas Edison headed to south Florida, seeking a respite from the harsh winters. His friend, Henry Ford followed 31 years later and moved in next door!
This past spring, I found myself in Fort Myers, doing the exact same thing…seeking a respite from the remnants of winter’s wrath. Between trips to the beach and time lounging in the warm sunshine, I found myself wanting to see what it was that lured Edison and his family, and later, Henry Ford, to the area. I headed downtown to the National Register Historic Site, Edison and Ford Winter Estates.
What I found at the most visited historic home site in America (besides long lines and a hefty admission fee) was twenty acres of historical buildings and gardens including the 1928 Edison Botanical Research Laboratory.
After purchasing my admission, I followed the masses across McGregor Boulevard and began my explorations.
Starting my self-guided tour on the northeast side of the property, I visited the Caretakers’ Cottage. The cottage, which now offers various exhibits throughout the year, was one of the oldest buildings in Fort Myers when Thomas Edison arrived. Designed in the “cracker” style, it was originally used by cattlemen as they drove their herds south. The house was renovated and expanded to include a kitchen, garage and chauffeur’s quarters, making it comfortable for the caretakers who lived on-site year-round. On this day, I found the structure to be devoid of its original furnishings, but filled with an interesting display of furniture and artwork created from the wood of trees destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017.
Thomas Edison’s Caretakers’ Cottage
Exhibit in the Caretakers’ Cottage
Continuing my walk through the beautifully landscaped property and the Moonlight Garden, I found Edison’s study which was built in 1928 and was the site of many experiments, including underwater telegraphy. The laboratory originally contained equipment for mechanical and chemical experiments and many elements from his various companies. Eventually, his laboratory was sold to Henry Ford and moved to his collection of historic buildings at Greenfield Village in Dearborn, Michigan.
Thomas Edison’s StudyThomas Edison’s Study and the Moonlight GardenMoonlight Garden
Just across the pathway from Edison’s study, I discovered the place where the family, no doubt, spent much of their time…the swimming pool. One of the first residential pools constructed in the area, the 50’ x 20’ pool was built in 1910. A few years later, a changing room, shower and Tea House were added. As I stood in the heat of the day, I must admit, it still looked pretty inviting!
Swimming Pool Complex
Following the path along the Caloosahatchee River, I reveled in the cool breeze and stopped to inspect the remnants of the pier which had been constructed to bring in building materials needed for the estate’s creation. The river walk path, lined with tall, regal palms and lush greenery led to the property belonging to Henry Ford. In 1914, the Ford family (Henry, Clara and their son Edsel) was invited by the Edison’s for a visit. Finding the climate and area (as well as the company) to be enjoyable, they purchased the home adjacent to the Edison estate. The Mangoes, as it was named by the Fords, was built in the Craftsman architectural style and featured two stories.
PierRiverwalk
On the southwestern side of the property, I first investigated the Ford Caretaker’s Cottage, originally a garage and residence. Today, it caters to visitors of the estate and offers locally made ice cream, books and gifts as well as a place to sit and cool off. Another garage, to the rear of the main house, provided a look at five of Ford’s beautifully crafted automobiles.
Henry Ford’s Caretakers’ Cottage
Ford’s Automobile Garage
Ford’s Citrus Grove
Finally, with a quick peek at Ford’s citrus grove, I made my way to Henry Ford’s main house. Built in 1911, the American bungalow was constructed with a wide covered porch from which I and other visitors could peer into the opened, plexi-glass covered doorways of the home. The cypress ceiling with decorative beams held court over the interior accoutrements, although I was to understand that most of the furnishings on display were not original, except for the grandmother clock in the living room.
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main HouseHenry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Strolling by Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden, I then had an outstanding view of the front of the Edison home, fronted by a row of majestic palms. Before heading to the porch, however, I strolled down Orchid Lane and the Friendship Walk. The lane was developed as a natural path from the mango trees that formed a line down both properties. Many orchid plants were grown here and the stones that gave sustenance to the path were quite interesting with each being a gift to the Edisons from friends, family and local community members and leaders. Started in 1928, with a stone from Hamilton Holt, the president of Rollins College in Winter Park, Florida, the pathway continued to evolve with stones, fifty in all, in memory of family members, ideologies and causes.
Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden
Friendship WalkClara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden
Making my way back to the Edison main house, I was able to examine the family’s pride and joy…the Seminole Lodge.
Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole Lodge
Divided into two sections, it was interesting to contemplate the thought process involved in its design. Originally, the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however in 1906, the Edison family purchased the guesthouse, originally owned by a business associate, to house their frequent guests, including Henry Ford, Harvey Firestone, President-elect Herbert Hoover, and many others. The guest house offered a sitting room, dining room, kitchen, guest bedrooms and quarters for serving staff. The original design of the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however, with the addition of the guest cottage to the main structure, the family remodeled the main house to offer a library, a study, Edison’s den and serve as family bedroom suites, using the kitchen and dining in the guest house.
Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole LodgeEdison Guest HouseWalkway between Edison Guest House and Main House
Again, we were allowed to walk on the ample covered porches and peer through the plexi-glass blocked doorways, but it was wonderful to learn that nearly all of the furnishings in the Edison main house and guest house are original to the Edison family. There were many cozy seating areas on the porch and it was assured that many a fishing tale was told here when the men returned from their days at sea. On the wall above one of the seating areas, I spied a mounted tarpon. It was amusing to read about Charles Edison’s story as to how he gaffed a 110-pound tarpon (his first), while his dad, out in a larger boat upriver, excitedly brought back his first tarpon, only to discover he had been out-fished by his son!
Edison Main HouseEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and Gardens
I continued to enjoy the estate grounds until I decided to make my way back to the visitor center. Although I had assumed that my tour was over, in the attached building, I discovered the museum displaying a wide assortment of machinery, Edison inventions, fishing gear along with a depiction of the pier that originally stood behind the houses, statues of both Thomas Edison and his wife, Mary, furniture and many of Henry Ford’s automobiles. I studied as many as I could of the exhibits and artifacts before making my way through Thomas Edison’s Machine Shop.
Edison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate Museum
I stood looking at the tables filled with beakers and lab equipment and it was truly awe-inspiring to think of the ideas conceived and executed here. If it not for Thomas Edison, we might possibly be using candles during the nighttime hours and if it were not for Henry Ford, everyday travel as we know it, would not exist.
Edison’s Machine Shop and Laboratory
As I got back into my car to head back to my hotel room, where I turned on my lights, I realized that today, I had stood where these great men stood, saw where they worked and enjoyed what they got to enjoy, even if just during the winter.
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The Hollywood Walk of Fame in Los Angeles is one of the state’s top attractions.
The Walk of Fame in Madrid…a forgotten attempt at imitation.
While checking out places of interest near the Plaza de Espana in Madrid, something caught my eye! A few blocks from my hotel was the city’s own version of the iconic Hollywood attraction!
Opened in 2011, the Spanish Film Academy, wishing to pay tribute to Spanish actors, actresses and filmmakers, laid the groundwork for the installation of twenty-five stars (one for each year of the Academy’s lifetime). The site was chosen for its proximity to the “Golem” and “Renoir” cinemas and also the bookstore, “8 1/2” that specializes in cinematography, however, the site selection wasn’t without controversy. Many thought it would be better to place the “stars” on the Gran Via, a busy avenue more frequented by tourists. While the plan was to install a star per year after the initial induction, only one other was embedded in the sidewalk.
Excited to see Madrid’s cinematic tribute interpretation, I headed out to walk the few blocks to its location. Thinking that it would be easy to spot, I discovered that it was tucked away on a side street and I actually walked past it…twice.
Finally, I turned onto Calle de Martin de los Heros.
Oh, what a disappointment!
Instead of a Walk of Fame, I discovered a Walk of Shame!
Stars dedicated to Luis Buñuel (filmmaker), Pedro Almodovar (filmmaker, producer, screenwriter, former actor), Fernando Rey (actor), Penelope Cruz (actress), Javier Bardem (actor) and Antonio Banderas (actor) among others, lined one side of the street. The sidewalk was dirty, cracked and unkempt. Cigarettes were stuck into the edges of the squares and even one star, that of Luis Garcia Berlanga (director), was crossed with barrier tape. Even poor Javier Bardem’s star was missing one of its appendages!
Although I am positive that certain actors and actress are proud that their country of origin has honored them, I am sure that they are more proud of their five-pointed, terrazzo and gold stars on Hollywood Boulevard.
My advice?
No pierdas tu tiempo (don’t waste your time)!
Go visit the stars of Penelope Cruz, Javier Bardem and Antonio Banderas in California!
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Paseo de la Fama de Madrid
Address: C. de Martin de los Heros, 13, 28008, Madrid, Spain
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Plaza de Espana, lines 3 and 10. Bus, 001, 1, 133 and 74. Train, C1, C10, C3A, C7.
As we drove through the darkened streets of Quito toward our hotel, it was as if a ray of sunshine cast itself through the nighttime skies down on Panecillo hill.
Fittingly, before the Spanish arrived, the Incas used this hill as a place to worship the sun. At night, it is lighted so that it is visible for the entire city to see and is the location of an icon that is worshiped by millions.
The Blessed Virgin.
Commissioned in 1976, by the religious order of the Oblates, the statue was designed by Spanish artist Agustín de la Herrán Matorras. The statue, which is 134 1/2 feet high, is made up of seven thousand pieces of aluminum, which reflects the light of the day and continually makes itself known, high above the city.
After seeing this amazing statue from afar, upon our late night arrival, I knew that I had to see it up close. Taking an Uber through the winding streets that led up to the top of Panecillo hill, I gasped at the enormity of the statue as we pulled into the parking lot.
As I stood beneath her, I took note that she is much like other classic virgin statues, stepping on a snake while standing atop a globe. What makes this virgin less like others, however, is her angelic wings and the fact that her posture gives the impression of a dancer, much like the Virgen de Quito sculpted by Bernardo de Legarda in 1734 and on display in the Church of St. Francis.
The hill upon which the Virgin stands offers amazing 360 degree views of the surrounding city and mountainous areas beyond on clear days and we noticed many people here relishing the views as well as purchasing souvenirs and food at the many kiosks that surround the area.
Entering the Virgin statue, we paid the entry fee and proceeded to climb the stairs to the three levels which present religious icons, artwork and beautiful stained glass windows. Upon reaching the uppermost level, it was possible to see the innards of the statue…a fascinating glimpse at how the largest of this kind of monument was put together.
Making our way down and to the exterior, we admired the statue from the different levels of the landscape, appreciating how the late afternoon sun illuminated it so beautifully.
While a trip to the top of Panecillo Hill is a relatively easy one with the large availability of taxis and Ubers, it might be tempting to make the uphill hike through the neighborhoods below, especially if you are in the downtown Quito area. Be cautious as we were warned of vicious neighborhood dogs and muggings that haunt the inclined area. It should be known, as well, that cell service was not very good at the top of the hill and we luckily found a taxi before attempting to make the downhill hike. Nevertheless, a visit to the Virgin of Panecillo is one that all visitors to Quito should make to appreciate its artistry.
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The first time I ever visited Lisbon, I remember seeing the colorful tiles that decorated many buildings and walls in the city.
On this visit, I was seeing pink!
Walking from the Cais do Sodre ferry station, I happened to walk across an overpass and took a look down at the street below.
IT WAS PINK!
Yes, Pink Street is aptly named for its bright, Pepto-Bismol-like color. Known for the large number of bars located here, Pepto-Bismol is probably something that many people, who frequent the area, use after a night of hard partying and heavy eating!
Taking the stairway down to the colorful Rua Nova do Carvalho, I walked along, following the rose-colored pathway, wondering how crowded this place gets when the sun goes down.
Once Lisbon’s Red Light District, sporting sleazy bars and brothels, the street was given an overhaul in 2011 and the questionable businesses were shut down. Today, instead of sailors seeking sex, the area is the one that people choose when looking for drinks, food and dancing! A tamer version than what was there before.
What a transformation! It’s like someone added a drop of white to clean the area and instead of red, it lightened up the mood!
To Pink!
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The Pink Street
Address: R. Nova do Carvalho, 1200-372 Lisboa, Portugal
If you want to see all that San Francisco has to offer, there is one place to go.
Coit Tower.
The slender white concrete column, rising from the top of Telegraph Hill, can be seen from throughout the city. Completed in 1933, it has attracted the attention of residents and tourists alike for its simple beauty and the 360 degree views it offers.
Having seen Coit Tower from afar, many times, I had never taken the time to make it up Telegraph Hill to see exactly what it offered. With the clear, spring day, complete with bright blue skies, spread out above me, however, I decided that it was high time to make the climb.
The grounds around the tower, Pioneer Park, were well-manicured and offered ample area to take a break on one of the many benches and enjoy the shade, especially after the steep climb. It’s also a great place to watch and look for its noisiest residents, a wild flock of parrots.
Entering the tower, I was directed to the gift shop to purchase an elevator pass to reach the observation deck and then made my way to the queue for the elevator. The elevator is quite small, slow, holds only about 8 people and is manually operated, so be prepared to wait, especially during peak times.
Stepping off the elevator into the sunshine flooding the upper area and filtering through the decorative arches, we eagerly made our way to the windows where, as far as the eye could see, was the Bay City! Sweeping views of the hills, valleys and the city’s most famous landmarks captivated our attention…the Golden Gate and Bay bridges, Alcatraz, the Transamerica Pyramid, Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39, Nob Hill, Russian Hill, Twin Peaks, Aquatic Park, the Financial District, the Ferry Building, Angel Island, Treasure Island and Lombard Street, as well as the five surrounding counties.
Though I was enjoying the comprehensive views of the city, I still wasn’t aware of the history of this intriguing structure, however, a chat with the tour guide gave me a bit of insight.
Lillie Hitchcock Coit, a wealthy, eccentric resident of the city passed away in 1929 and left one-third of her fortune for the purpose of adding beauty to the city that she so dearly loved. Designed by the architecture firm of Arthur Brown, Jr. (the designers of San Francisco’s City Hall), the 210 foot tower was built on Pioneer Park the former sight of an optical semaphore telegraph (1850), which was erected to alert residents of the arrival of ships. The tower was dedicated to the city’s volunteer firefighters that Lillie Coit so greatly admired. Another monument, also paid for with Coit’s funds and dedicated to the firefighters was erected in Washington Square. This sculpture depicts three firemen, one carrying a woman in his arms.
The tower is well known and often-depicted in advertisements and scenes hyping San Francisco. If you are a film buff and have a keen eye, however, you may have noticed Coit Tower highlighted in many films and television series. Hitchcock, himself, featured the tower in his 1958 film Vertigo and more recently, it appeared in the 2015 disaster film, San Andreas, the Eddie Murphy film, Dr.Dolittle and the television show, Charmed.
Once you have taken a tour of the top of the tower, make sure to spend some time to inspect the murals at the base of the tower. These murals were created by twenty-five local artists who were commissioned to create works of art which depict aspects of life in California.
Having made such an impression upon the city due to the generosity of Lillie Coit, honor her and take a walk up to the top of Telegraph Hill. After you see all that’s before you, I promise,
Address: 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd, San Francisco, CA 94133
Hours: April to October 1000-1800, November to March, 1000-1700. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Admission: Elevator Entrance fee, San Francisco residents, Adults, $6, Seniors 62+, $4, Youth 12-17 years, $4, Children, 5-11 years, $2, Children under 2, free. Non-residents, Adults, $9, Seniors 62+, $6, Youth 12-17 years, $6, Children, 5-11 years, $2, Children under 2, free.
One of the things I love about European cities is their public squares.
At any hour of the day, you can find people sitting on the benches, relaxing, talking and watching their children play. They are also the perfect meeting points for those coming together from various points in the city.
Many of these squares have beautiful fountains and artwork and are attractive to tourists for their outdoor cafes, perfect for people watching.
My favorite square in Madrid, is the Plaza Mayor. One of the first places I ever visited years ago, I still love it’s warm medieval ambiance, the many restaurants that spill into the plaza, the performers and the multitude of traditional artists that come each day and night to sell their wares. As proof, many of their paintings grace the walls of my home.
Plaza MayorStreet Performers
In the heart of Madrid, the Plaza Mayor was first built during the Hapsburg period of Philip III’s reign in the 15th century, just down the road from another famous plaza, Puerta del Sol. It was originally named, Plaza del Arrabal and used as the main market. After the plaza’s transferral to the city of Madrid in 1561, renovations resulted and after three major fires in its history, what you see today can be credited to architect Juan de Villanueva who lowered the surrounding buildings, closed the corners and created large entrances to the square.
Measuring 423 feet by 308 feet, the square contains 237 balconies, nine gates and a statue of Philip III on a horse in the center. In the past, executions and bullfights were once held here, but today, its major (and much milder) events include the annual Christmas market and on Sunday mornings, a stamp collecting and coin collecting market.
Plaza Mayor Gate
Statue of Philip III
Next to the Plaza Mayor, on Arco de Cuchillero Street, is something that should not be missed on a visit to Madrid. The Restaurante Botin, one of my favorites, which is the oldest restaurant in the world and offers some affordable and delectable culinary delights.
Another spot that people meet in Madrid is close by…Puerta del Sol. Not only a meeting spot now, but a popular location in the past.
Between the 17th and 19th centuries, the Puerta del Sol’s Post Office was the destination for couriers coming from other areas of Spain. Residents, eager for the latest news, would congregate in the hopes of gleaning what they could from the couriers and each other.
The square originated as one of the gates in the city wall that once surrounded Madrid in the 15th century. The name of the gate, which faced east, came from the rising sun which decorated the entry. Today, there is no trace of the ancient wall or the gate, but there are other landmarks that many descend upon the area to see.
The former House of the Post Office, by Jacques Marquet was completed in 1768, now houses the seat of the Presidency of the Madrid Community. Situated across the street from the square, you can also find Kilometer Zero embedded in the sidewalk just under the building’s clock tower. This monumental slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.
Old Post Office
Kilometer Zero Plaque
Within the square, you can find a mounted statue of Charles III of Spain (El Rey Alcalde, the mayor-king) who is honored here for the extensive public works he set in motion.
Statue of Charles III
Another famous statue is The Bear and the Strawberry Tree (el Osso y el Madroño) which is the symbol of Madrid. I will always remember this statue as once I was instructed to meet someone there, not knowing it had been moved (in 2009) from the north side at the entrance to Calle del Carmen. Needless to say, I couldn’t find it and my name was mud with the person the next day!
The Bear and the Strawberry Tree
Another interesting statue found in the square is the Mariblanca. This statue is a copy, possibly of the famous Venus de Milo and marks the place of a former fountain displaying that figure.
My favorite thing in the square, however, can be found high overhead. The Tío Pepe lighted sign is located above the square’s former Paris Hotel. After a three year absence for renovation of the building, the sign, was returned to its original location in 2014. Tío Pepe (Spanish for Uncle Joe) has been greeting visitors to Puerta del Sol, since 1938, while enticing them to try the famous brand of Sherry.
Tio Pepe Sign
Puerta del Sol has been the site of many demonstrations over the years, but mainly attracts visitors for its shopping, restaurants and sites. Not to be missed, if you find yourself traveling through the city on Madrid’s extensive metro and are passing through Sol, jump on out and check it out.
Just recently, I had the pleasure to stay near the Plaza de España. This beautiful square exhibits more of a park like feel and is extremely peaceful, though still located in an extremely urban area.
Located at the intersection of Grand Vía and Princesa streets, there is a large number of hotels, shopping and restaurants located nearby as well as the Royal Palace.
Despite the many attractions located in this area, however, many people come to Plaza España to see the Cervantes Monument, sculpted by Rafael Martínez Zapatero and Lorenzo Cullaut Valera. Commissioned by King Alfonso XIII on the anniversary of the publication of the second part of Don Quixote, the main part of the fountain with the figures of Don Quixote and his squire Sancho Panzo was erected in the 1920’s but not fully completed until the 1960’s when the sculptures of Aldonza and Dulcinea were added on the side.
Cervantes MonumentCervantes Monument, rear
Two architecturally important buildings flank the square, Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana, two of the tallest buildings in Madrid, thrilling those impressed by progress. For those, however, who want to enjoy nature, Plaza España offers shaded and wooded areas, a fountain and pond and seasonal landscaping.
Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana
After a long walk, I grabbed a seat opposite the monument to rest and enjoy the view. Glancing at my watch, I noticed it to be almost five, the time I had planned to meet a friend here. After my long walk from Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, my feet were enjoying the respite and my eyes were enjoying the natural and architectural gems set before me.
Maybe I should have made it five-thirty…
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Walking through one of the busiest and well known places in Madrid, the Puerta del Sol, I noticed a crowd of people across the street.
They were all looking down.
Being of a curious mind, I needed to see why.
In front of the old Post Office building, under the clock tower, a slab is embedded in the concrete sidewalk.
Kilometer Zero.
This stone slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.
If you’ve ever heard the saying, “all roads lead to Rome”, this type of marker explains why as many countries used these type of traditional markers, most commonly in their capital cities, with the most famous marker being the “Golden Milestone” in Ancient Rome.
The Madrid marker was originally placed in this location in 1950 and replaced with newer stones in 2002 and 2009, however with the replacement in 2002, it was turned the wrong direction, but corrected in 2009.
Today, it attracts thousands of tourists and tour groups who come to see where travel begins.
If you are in the historic Puerta del Sol, challenge yourself to find Kilometer Zero.
It won’t be that hard…just look for a group of people looking down!
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When I first visited Paris, one of the first things I remember (besides the Eiffel Tower), was the Arc de Triomphe. Located near my hotel, I was fascinated by the grand structure which seemed to have a constant stream of cars driving around it at all hours.
On another trip, I discovered an arch in Milan in the Piazza Sempione, and yet another, in Rome, the Arch of Constantine.
Hey wait, just how many arches are there? I thought this was a Parisian thing!
How wrong I was!
Triumphal arches are the most distinctive type of architecture that is associated with ancient Rome. These arches were mainly used for various reasons, mainly to commemorate the founding of new colonies, generals’ victories, construction of roadways and bridges, deaths of members of the imperial family or the accession of a new emperor.
These arches often span roadways, have one or more arched passageways and are decorated with carvings, sculpted reliefs and dedications.
Arches in the Roman style have been constructed in many cities around the world. Yes, the Arc de Triomphe, Milan’s Arco della Pace and Arch of Constantine, but there are so many more, including the Narva Triumphal Arch in Saint Petersburg, the Wellington Arch in London, the Arcul de Triumf in Bucharest, the India Gate in Delhi, the Arch of Caracalla in Tebessa, Algeria, Arch of Titus in Rome, the Siegestor in Munich and the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Arch in New York, just to name a few.
A few years later, while walking around in Barcelona, I was surprised to see another arch, very similar to the one in Paris, without the cars. Instead, there were many people walking around and through the arch onto the promenade of the Passeig de Lluis Companys.
Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf was built as the main access gate for the 1888 World Fair, by Josep Vilaseca, and still stands today, a true icon of the city. As it once welcomed visitors, it does so today, guiding them to the Parc de la Ciutadella.
On the day that I decided to revisit this monument, the afternoon was one of those that are hard to duplicate on a winter’s day. The sun was radiant, the sky brilliantly clear and the temperature extremely mild. Hundreds of people walked along the Passeig de Lluis Companys, enjoying the climate’s perfection!
As I approached the arch from Avenida de Vilanova, I marveled at the reddish brickwork standing vividly against the blue sky. The front frieze contains the stone sculpture Barcelona rep les nacions (“Barcelona welcomes the nations”) by Josep Reynes. Walking along the sides of the arch, I studied the friezes which include the stories of agriculture and industry by Antoni Vilanova and of trade and art by Torquat Tassó. The two pillars of the arch feature carved bats, something unexpected, but what I learned, were the emblem of King Jaume I, who ruled Barcelona during a period of prosperity. As I walked through the arch to the other side, I marveled at the number of people out and about as well as vendors hawking everything from jewelry to balloons.
Making my way to the concrete gates that line the Passeig de Lluis Companys, I stopped to study amazing urns that top the concrete gate, while occasionally dodging a biker or two. I especially enjoyed studying the unique lighting structures that also provide seating for visitors as well as a couple of interesting statues, including one of Pau Claris, an important political figure who proclaimed the Catalan Republic under the protection of France.
The best way to appreciate the arch, however, is to stop, turn and take a look at it every so often as you walk toward the Parc de la Ciutadella. Its amazing to see even from afar with the palm trees that line the walkway, framing its beauty.
So…how many have triumphal arches have I seen so far? About five…but with many trips planned for the future, I will be sure to seek them all out.
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