Meet Me There

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One of the things I love about European cities is their public squares.

At any hour of the day, you can find people sitting on the benches, relaxing, talking and watching their children play. They are also the perfect meeting points for those coming together from various points in the city.

Many of these squares have beautiful fountains and artwork and are attractive to tourists for their outdoor cafes, perfect for people watching.

My favorite square in Madrid, is the Plaza Mayor. One of the first places I ever visited years ago, I still love it’s warm medieval ambiance, the many restaurants that spill into the plaza, the performers and the multitude of traditional artists that come each day and night to sell their wares. As proof, many of their paintings grace the walls of my home.

Plaza Mayor
Street Performers

In the heart of Madrid, the Plaza Mayor was first built during the Hapsburg period of Philip III’s reign in the 15th century, just down the road from another famous plaza, Puerta del Sol. It was originally named, Plaza del Arrabal and used as the main market. After the plaza’s transferral to the city of Madrid in 1561, renovations resulted and after three major fires in its history, what you see today can be credited to architect Juan de Villanueva who lowered the surrounding buildings, closed the corners and created large entrances to the square.

Measuring 423 feet by 308 feet, the square contains 237 balconies, nine gates and a statue of Philip III on a horse in the center. In the past, executions and bullfights were once held here, but today, its major (and much milder) events include the annual Christmas market and on Sunday mornings, a stamp collecting and coin collecting market.

Plaza Mayor Gate
Statue of Philip III

Next to the Plaza Mayor, on Arco de Cuchillero Street, is something that should not be missed on a visit to Madrid. The Restaurante Botin, one of my favorites, which is the oldest restaurant in the world and offers some affordable and delectable culinary delights.

Another spot that people meet in Madrid is close by…Puerta del Sol. Not only a meeting spot now, but a popular location in the past.

Between the 17th and 19th centuries, the Puerta del Sol’s Post Office was the destination for couriers coming from other areas of Spain. Residents, eager for the latest news, would congregate in the hopes of gleaning what they could from the couriers and each other.

The square originated as one of the gates in the city wall that once surrounded Madrid in the 15th century. The name of the gate, which faced east, came from the rising sun which decorated the entry. Today, there is no trace of the ancient wall or the gate, but there are other landmarks that many descend upon the area to see.

The former House of the Post Office, by Jacques Marquet was completed in 1768, now houses the seat of the Presidency of the Madrid Community. Situated across the street from the square, you can also find Kilometer Zero embedded in the sidewalk just under the building’s clock tower. This monumental slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.

Old Post Office
Kilometer Zero Plaque

Within the square, you can find a mounted statue of Charles III of Spain (El Rey Alcalde, the mayor-king) who is honored here for the extensive public works he set in motion.

Statue of Charles III

Another famous statue is The Bear and the Strawberry Tree (el Osso y el Madroño) which is the symbol of Madrid. I will always remember this statue as once I was instructed to meet someone there, not knowing it had been moved (in 2009) from the north side at the entrance to Calle del Carmen. Needless to say, I couldn’t find it and my name was mud with the person the next day!

The Bear and the Strawberry Tree

Another interesting statue found in the square is the Mariblanca. This statue is a copy, possibly of the famous Venus de Milo and marks the place of a former fountain displaying that figure.

My favorite thing in the square, however, can be found high overhead. The Tío Pepe lighted sign is located above the square’s former Paris Hotel. After a three year absence for renovation of the building, the sign, was returned to its original location in 2014. Tío Pepe (Spanish for Uncle Joe) has been greeting visitors to Puerta del Sol, since 1938, while enticing them to try the famous brand of Sherry.

Tio Pepe Sign

Puerta del Sol has been the site of many demonstrations over the years, but mainly attracts visitors for its shopping, restaurants and sites. Not to be missed, if you find yourself traveling through the city on Madrid’s extensive metro and are passing through Sol, jump on out and check it out.

Just recently, I had the pleasure to stay near the Plaza de España. This beautiful square exhibits more of a park like feel and is extremely peaceful, though still located in an extremely urban area.

Located at the intersection of Grand Vía and Princesa streets, there is a large number of hotels, shopping and restaurants located nearby as well as the Royal Palace.

Despite the many attractions located in this area, however, many people come to Plaza España to see the Cervantes Monument, sculpted by Rafael Martínez Zapatero and Lorenzo Cullaut Valera. Commissioned by King Alfonso XIII on the anniversary of the publication of the second part of Don Quixote, the main part of the fountain with the figures of Don Quixote and his squire Sancho Panzo was erected in the 1920’s but not fully completed until the 1960’s when the sculptures of Aldonza and Dulcinea were added on the side.

Cervantes Monument
Cervantes Monument, rear

Two architecturally important buildings flank the square, Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana, two of the tallest buildings in Madrid, thrilling those impressed by progress. For those, however, who want to enjoy nature, Plaza España offers shaded and wooded areas, a fountain and pond and seasonal landscaping.

Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana

After a long walk, I grabbed a seat opposite the monument to rest and enjoy the view. Glancing at my watch, I noticed it to be almost five, the time I had planned to meet a friend here. After my long walk from Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, my feet were enjoying the respite and my eyes were enjoying the natural and architectural gems set before me.

Maybe I should have made it five-thirty…

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Plaza Mayor

Puerta del Sol

Plaza de España