The Center of the Nation

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

About a year and a half ago, my husband and I visited the Center of the World monument while vacationing in Quito, Ecuador. When I heard about the monument for the Geographic Center of the Nation in Belle Fourche, South Dakota, I decided that I needed to plan my travel route around this attraction.

Located in western South Dakota, the monument is accessible year round, but being that I visited on Veteran’s Day, I was disappointed to find that the Visitor’s Center and Tri-State Museum closed.

What was more disappointing, however, was that I learned that this was not actually the geographic center. Kind of like in Ecuador, where a mistake in measurements resulted in the monument not being located on the exact location, the actual center is located on private property. The National Geodetic Survey chose Belle Fourche, the town closest to the actual site and the monument was placed there.

While I learned that I could drive twenty miles north to the actual center’s location (latitude 44 58 02.07622N and longitude 103 46.60283W), marked by a red, white and blue hand lettered sign and a United States flag in a private field, I just didn’t have the time.

Walking behind the Visitor’s Center and Tri-State Museum, I found the 21-foot monument, near the Redwater River, made of etched South Dakota granite and a twelve inch bronze marker from the National Geodetic Survey.

What is interesting to consider, however, is that before the addition of Alaska and Hawaii in 1959, Lebanon, Kansas was the geographic center of the nation. With the inclusion of these two states, a new center had to be determined. Keep in mind, Rugby, North Dakota has the distinction of being the geographic center of North America.

Also on the property is the Buckskin Johnny Cabin, built in 1876, which was constructed by John T. Spaulding with logs felled in the Black Hills. It was donated to the Belle Fourche Lions Club, moved to the city and restored as a historical monument to the early days of the frontiersmen. You can also find a Korean War Memorial, a Vietnam War Memorial, antique farm equipment, military equipment and a trail extending near the river.

While my stopover was short and sweet, it was a good diversion, regardless of the fact that I was led here in error.

Sometimes you win some and you lose some. All in a days adventures!

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Geographic Center of the Nation

Close Encounters

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In the 1977 hit motion picture, Close Encounters of the Third Kind, a man’s encounter with a UFO leads him to a landmark mountain where the government is attempting to communicate with extraterrestrials.

I was only ten years old when the movie was released and remember sitting in the theater, half fascinated and half terrified; my youthful naivete leading me to somehow believe that what I was seeing really existed. Of course, we scanned the darkened skies during the evenings, watching for anomalies, but now, there was this weird shaped mountain somewhere, where extraterrestrials were hiding out, waiting to abduct innocent people like me!

The blockbuster movie captivated the masses and paved the way for similar movies and television shows and its innovative special effects initiated what was to come.

While enroute to Rapid City, South Dakota, I decided to engage other travelers in the gatehouse in the Minneapolis airport. Listening to their conversations, it was evident that they had traveled there many times and I was eager to know what attractions they suggested that I visit. Of course, topping the list was Mount Rushmore, the Crazy Horse Memorial and the Badlands, but one caught me off guard.

Do you remember the movie, Close Encounters of the Third Kind?” I was asked by a man going on a hunting trip. “The mountain tower that was featured in the movie is just across the border in Wyoming, only a couple hours away. It is worth the drive.”

There was no thinking about this. I knew that I was going to move heaven and hell to see this and more importantly photograph it for my mom, a huge fan of the movie.

Setting out early on my second day in South Dakota, it was cold but clear. Merging on to the interstate, I headed west, marveling at how little traffic I encountered, crossing into Wyoming. Turning from the highway at Sundance, I headed north, the anticipation building with each mile.

And there it was!

Pulling over to the side of the road, with it still quite some distance from my location, I snapped photo after photo so that I could send to my mom…the culmination of the hints I had been texting to her as to where I was going.

Earlier in the day, I was concerned about certain locations possibly being closed for Veteran’s Day. Entering the park, however, I learned that it was my good fortune to actually be visiting on this day as admission was complimentary, saving me the twenty-five dollar entry.

Winding my way uphill, I occasionally glimpsed the tower peeking out from behind the trees until I reached the parking area where it loomed over me. After parking my car and taking a quick bathroom break, I headed toward the trail entrance.

Color caught my eye and I began to notice bits of cloth attached to many of the trees along the trail. These are prayer cloths left by practitioners of Native American religions, who believe the tower to be sacred.

I was only there to moderately hike, but after passing a sign informing climbers to register, I assumed that climbers scale the tower’s soaring, smooth walls. I later learned, however, that climbers are asked by the National Park Service to not climb in June, during the summer solstice, a sacred time. Native Americans, however, ask that the tower not be climbed at any time.

I followed the Tower Trail, passing the boulder field on a paved 1.3 mile walk around the base of the Tower. It was a lovely day with bright blue skies as a backdrop for the monolith reaching up to it. The hike was relatively easy, with views of the nearby valleys and of course every part of the tower. Signage along the path informed about the tower’s geologic history, the surrounding lands and the people who live there, the fire ecology and the nature that dwells on the tower’s lands.

Of course, the landscape looked nothing like the movie’s. There definitely was not an area with a huge mothership blasting five tuba notes in communication with mankind! However, I was glad that I had decided to cut into my tight schedule to enjoy the great outdoors and take this excursion.

Once my hike was complete, I drove back down the mountain to the base of Joyner’s Ridge Trail where stunning views of the tower are abundant. Deciding not to take another hike as I had so much more to see on my return to South Dakota, I headed toward the front of the park. Here, I encountered Prairie Dog town. Everywhere, I looked, I could see small heads popping out of the ground and little bodies running back and forth. Such a fascinating place, I stayed for longer than I had planned watching these amazing animals.

Passing through the front gates, I made a pit stop at the gift shop. Asking for advice for a nearby lunch stop, the nice saleslady directed me to the town of Hulett. With one more glance at the Tower that had sometimes haunted my earlier years, I set off to see what other close encounters I could find in Wyoming and South Dakota.

Believe me, there are many!

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Devil’s Tower

  • https://www.nps.gov/deto/index.htm
  • Address: Devil’s Tower, Wyoming 59602, United States
  • Hours: Open 24 hours. Visitor Center is currently closed.
  • Admission: $25 per vehicle (1-7 day pass), $20 per motorcycle (1-7 pass), $15 Individual on foot or bicycle (1-7 day pass), $25, Commercial Tours (1-6 people), $40, Commercial Tours (7-25 people), $100, Commercial Tours (26 or more people). Fee free days, January 18, April 17, August 4, August 25, September 25 and November 11.

Foggy Days

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Standing atop the highest point in Cuttyhunk, I looked down past the oyster ponds to the beaches of the West End at a stone tower perched alone on an arm of the island.

With a little investigation, I learned that this stone tower was the Cuttyhunk Monument, dedicated to the island’s founder, Bartholomew Gosnold.

In 1602, Gosnold sailed toward the Americas with the intent to set up a new colony and trading post. After brief stops in Maine and Provincetown, he then landed on Elizabeth’s Isle, known today as the island of Cuttyhunk.

Gosnold, a lawyer, traveled in high circles, practicing law with Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Walter Drake and enjoying regular performances by Shakespeare. It has also been speculated that he had ties to the Knights Templar and may have been trying to find their settlement on Narragansett Bay.

After a successfully harvesting a ton of sassafras, known for its healing properties, cedar timbers and furs, the settlement was disbanded and the group set off to return to England. Though Gosnold didn’t realize the colony that he set out to establish, he left his mark on the area. He is credited with naming Cape Cod because of the abundance of cod in its waters and Martha’s Vineyard for his deceased infant daughter and his wife’s grandmother, Martha Golding, as well as the wild grapes growing there. It is believed that he introduced the wheelbarrow to the New World and that Shakespeare’s play, The Tempest, may have been based on the documentation kept by Gosnold and his companions. Gosnold, continued his explorations and was part of the group responsible for the first English colony at Jamestown.

In 1902, construction of a 70 foot stone tower was initiated as a tribute to Bartholomew Gosnold on the spot where it was believed he set up the island’s first settlement. The monument was completed and dedicated on September 1, 1903.

When staying with my friend a couple of years ago, I read a small article about the the Cuttyhunk Monument. Remembering this article, I vowed that I was going to head out to the West End of the island to see this monument up close and personal.

One day, we set out for the long walk to the West End. Having spoken with a couple of other residents, we were warned to check the tide schedule as the water crosses the path between the two salt ponds, that leads to the beach. After we arrived, however, the fog rolled in quickly and we couldn’t see a thing.

A few more days passed and my time in Cuttyhunk was coming to a close. I was determined to make it out to get a better view of the monument. During the early morning, I woke up to a dense fog covering the island. Deciding that our adventure was just not going to happen, I closed my eyes and burrowed down deeper under the covers. Strangely enough, when I awoke later, the sun was shining and we decided to give it a try.

The day was hot and the dirt road a bit rocky and uneven. We continued our quest and as we came upon a hill, we were able to look through the clearing to a clear beach…and the monument! Wow! We were going to get a good view!

Trudging down the hill, we passed through the tall sea grass and tiptoed over the stones that separated the oyster ponds. We could see the monument to our left, but there was something else. The fog was rolling in!

Quickly, we made our way to the beach, walking in the direction of the monument and praying that this bout of fog was going to disperse. I have to say, I never gave up on that idea, but sadly, even though it thinned at times, it never really cleared. I guess the bright side was that I could still see the monument through the fog, yet, it wasn’t conducive to the beautiful photographs I had dreamed of. I must admit, however, this gloom, no matter how rarified, lent a creepy atmosphere, one that I could imagine the first settlers encountered when first stepping foot on this spot. I could almost imagine the native settlers standing on the point, waiting to greet the newcomers.

Sitting there on a large boulder, smelling the salty air, my imagination began to wander. What was it like landing here for the first time? Exciting, yet frightening, I am sure.

Wait, was that a ghost, standing on the point? The ghost of Bartholomew Gosnold?

All of this fog was really getting to me…it was just a fisherman hoping for some of the Atlantic Cod.

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Cuttyhunk Monument

  • Address: West End, Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily and depending on the tides
  • Admission: free

The Virgin of Quito

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As we drove through the darkened streets of Quito toward our hotel, it was as if a ray of sunshine cast itself through the nighttime skies down on Panecillo hill.

Fittingly, before the Spanish arrived, the Incas used this hill as a place to worship the sun. At night, it is lighted so that it is visible for the entire city to see and is the location of an icon that is worshiped by millions.

The Blessed Virgin.

Commissioned in 1976, by the religious order of the Oblates, the statue was designed by Spanish artist Agustín de la Herrán Matorras. The statue, which is 134 1/2 feet high, is made up of seven thousand pieces of aluminum, which reflects the light of the day and continually makes itself known, high above the city.

After seeing this amazing statue from afar, upon our late night arrival, I knew that I had to see it up close. Taking an Uber through the winding streets that led up to the top of Panecillo hill, I gasped at the enormity of the statue as we pulled into the parking lot.

As I stood beneath her, I took note that she is much like other classic virgin statues, stepping on a snake while standing atop a globe. What makes this virgin less like others, however, is her angelic wings and the fact that her posture gives the impression of a dancer, much like the Virgen de Quito sculpted by Bernardo de Legarda in 1734 and on display in the Church of St. Francis.

The hill upon which the Virgin stands offers amazing 360 degree views of the surrounding city and mountainous areas beyond on clear days and we noticed many people here relishing the views as well as purchasing souvenirs and food at the many kiosks that surround the area.

Entering the Virgin statue, we paid the entry fee and proceeded to climb the stairs to the three levels which present religious icons, artwork and beautiful stained glass windows. Upon reaching the uppermost level, it was possible to see the innards of the statue…a fascinating glimpse at how the largest of this kind of monument was put together.

Making our way down and to the exterior, we admired the statue from the different levels of the landscape, appreciating how the late afternoon sun illuminated it so beautifully.

While a trip to the top of Panecillo Hill is a relatively easy one with the large availability of taxis and Ubers, it might be tempting to make the uphill hike through the neighborhoods below, especially if you are in the downtown Quito area. Be cautious as we were warned of vicious neighborhood dogs and muggings that haunt the inclined area. It should be known, as well, that cell service was not very good at the top of the hill and we luckily found a taxi before attempting to make the downhill hike. Nevertheless, a visit to the Virgin of Panecillo is one that all visitors to Quito should make to appreciate its artistry.

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El Panecillo

  • Address: El Panecillo, Quito EC170111, Ecuador
  • Hours: Monday through Friday, 0900-1800, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1700
  • Admission: $1 to enter premises, $2 to enter statue
  • Getting There: Taxi or Uber, about $3-4 each way from the center of downtown

The Real Middle

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Global Positioning System was introduced in the 1970’s. With this launch, it was determined that the Equator line in Quito, Ecuador was not where originally thought after the eighteenth century Franco-Spanish Geodesic Mission first determined its location.

That’s a big problem, especially when the city invested millions of dollars to build a tourist attraction so that tourists could photograph themselves straddling the imaginary line, marked with yellow, which divides the globe into the northern and southern hemispheres!

Visiting Mitad del Mundo first, we understood the complexity of the situation but took it all in stride. After all, the entire complex was quite charming and entertaining and we could have stayed for much longer if we would have had the time.

After a bit of research, I had found that the Intinan Solar Museum was located a short distance from Mitad del Mundo’s entrance gates and was highly recommended from past visitors.

Guiding my husband along the sidewalk and following the marked location on my iPhone map app, we took a turn onto a gravel drive leading uphill. There didn’t appear to be much here aside from a couple of rundown buildings and the occasional vehicle that passed us by, stirring up the dust on the roadway. My husband, a little skeptical, insisted we turn back, even though a sign at the main road had pointed the way. I, ever the adventurer, insisted we keep going.

Soon, cresting the hill (and much to my husband’s relief), we found the raised walkway leading to the entrance built into the hillside. Greeted by one of the workers, we were directed to the ticket booth and instructed to wait until an English speaking guide became available.

The whole complex was fairly small but well appointed with Ecuadorian decor including totem poles that were gifted by other countries and re-creations of cultural villages. As we waited, we inspected the gift shops and grabbed some water from the restaurant.

Our guide soon introduced himself and began his job of escorting us through the village explaining its history and offering a look into Ecuadorian life through exhibits showing daily life including homes, tools and dioramas. Authentic items displayed included a shrunken head, a stuffed anaconda and a burial chamber with a re-created mummy. A demonstration of how chocolate is made from its cacao beginnings was quite compelling, especially when we were offered delicious samples.

The best part of the complex was the interactive demonstrations which took place on the Equator line, marked in red, running through the entire village. These presentations depicted the pull of the equator’s force…trying to walk the equator line with my eyes closed (unsuccessfully, of course), balancing an egg on a nail and draining a basin on the equator line and in both hemispheres. Many reviews refer to these as parlor tricks, but I guess I am quite gullible…I thought they were quite believable, though I could never balance that egg on the nail!

Water drains straight down on the equator line
Water drains clockwise in the southern hemisphere
Water drains counterclockwise in the northern hemisphere

Our entire visit lasted about an hour but was time well spent. Although both equator sites were vastly different, we enjoyed our time at each and I would recommend that anyone visiting Quito make time in their day for a visit to both sites.

But, if someone insisted that I pick a favorite…

The Intinan Solar Museum, by a mile! I loved it for its more intimate feel and the personalized experience we received there.

Visit both and make up your own mind!

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Intinan Solar Museum

The Middle of the World

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Passport junkie.

That’s me. A person who wants to fill their passport with as many stamps from as many countries that they can.

This summer, I had done quite a bit of traveling with my family, however, even though we had visited cities to which I had never been, it was to countries that I had already marked off my map.

Scouring airline routes for a new country to visit, I decided that my husband and I could make it down to Quito, Ecuador, somewhere neither of us had ever traveled to, without a lot of fanfare or time off of his schedule.

Arriving late at night, the sky was dark and foggy and their wasn’t much to see at the airport or on our taxi ride to our hotel in the downtown area. So, it suffices to say that I was up early and eager to see what Quito had to offer.

One of the most popular attractions in Quito is the Equator. Yes…that imaginary line that runs through the center of our globe and what Quito is named for. If there was nothing else that we would see, this had to be it!

So you ask…if it’s imaginary, how would we find it?

Uber, of course!

Journeying via Uber for a few miles from the downtown area, our destination was Ciudad Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World City), the location of where the monument to the equator has been built. Though is is touted that this is the exact location of the equator, as was determined by the eighteenth century Franco-Spanish Geodesic Mission, the World Geodetic System, used in modern GPS systems, actually shows that the equator actually lies about 240 meters north of the marked line.

Oops!

No matter, we would visit this Disney-esque like park and then head to the real Equator location at the Intinan Solar Museum afterward.

Mitad del Mundo Entrance and Ticket Booth

Passing through the entrance, we headed through the well-manicured grounds to the pyramidal monument which dominates the park’s skyline. Each side faces a cardinal direction and the monument is topped with a globe. Naturally, the first thing we (as all other tourists) did was to straddle the yellow “equator” line in front of the monument. For a moment, my husband was in the northern hemisphere and I was in the south…yet only a few inches away from each other!

How cool is that?

We ventured into the monument to visit the small museum that offers insight into the Ecuadorian culture as well as information about the equator and the history of Mitad del Mundo. Working our way through each level, we finally, found ourselves at the top which offers a viewing platform and amazing perspectives of the property and the city and mountains beyond.

Making our way throughout the property, we found it to be quite vast and offering many attractions, including shopping and restaurants along a small colonial square, a llama farm, beer and cocoa museums, a planetarium and replications of ancestral housing. There are three cultural museums, the Ecuadorian Pavilion which offers a look at pre-Columbian art to inform of the history of Ecuador, the France Pavilion, a two-storied space which offers insight into the main contributions provided by the First and Second French Geodetic Mission and the Guayasamin Pavilion where you can appreciate the works of Ecuadorian painter and sculptor Oswaldo Guayasamin, who fought for the rights of the indigenous people. The Cultural Square hosts cultural events on most weekends and there is a small train station which provides transportation throughout the park with commentary emphasizing the history of the park.

Ancestral Housing Replicas

My favorite thing (besides dining on delicious empanadas) was our visit to the chapel modeled after the many churches that dominate the center of Quito. Ascending the bell tower, we had a beautiful view of the monument and the square below, I immediately focused in on this sign.

Oh, yes! I’ve always wanted to ring a church bell!

Descending back into and out of the church, we made our way, next door, to the Virgin’s Museum which highlights the most important Virgins celebrated and worshiped around the world. Just down the street, there was a small grotto, which gives patrons a chance to give thanks and praise to the most important Virgin, the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Although, it would have been easy to spend the greater part of a day here at Ciudad Mitad del Mundo, our itinerary was packed with many of Quito’s attractions and it was time to move on.

Petting the llamas would have to wait until next time!

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Mitad Del Mundo

  • http://www.mitaddelmundo.com/en-us/
  • Address: Manuel Cordova Galarza Km. 13, 5 SN, Quito, Ecuador
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $5.00, Children (ages 5-12), $2.50, Seniors and Disabled, $2.50, Children under 5, free
  • Getting There: Uber, from the Hilton, about $13.00 US. Quito Tour Bus, $30.00 per Adult, $20.00, reduced fare, departing from the Boulevard of the United Nations. The Mitad del Mundo bus ($.40 per person, adult, $.20 reduced) which runs along the Occidental Avenue (North-South). Buses run approximately every 5 minutes. Taxi rates vary from various parts of the city and arrangements can be made from most hotels for driver to wait for return or transport to other locations throughout the city.

The Hill Of the Muses

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Socrates.

One of the most widely recognized classical Greek philosophers in history, he was also known as the founder of Western philosophy. It was his unique teachings and thoughts, however, that led to his demise. In 399 BC, Socrates went on trial and was found guilty of corruption and impiety. After being imprisoned, he was sentenced to death by poison.

Searching a map of Athens, I noticed on Philapappou Hill (also known as the Hill of the Muses), a landmark noting the location of the Prison of Socrates. Since I had never had the opportunity to walk to the top of this hill to inspect the monument to Philapappou (that I had seen from the nearby Acropolis) I decided that it would be a good destination for that day and being able to search out the location of this historical prison would be a bonus.

Heading up the pedestrian friendly Dionysiou Areopagitou street, I entered the park gates and headed up the marble paved pathways. Welcoming the shady pine-covered trails, I looked for signs leading to my destinations. There were none, however, finding the first item on my list was not all that difficult as it seemed that most other tourists were headed that way.

The Prison of Socrates was nothing more than a cave with iron bars…still, it was interesting to think that Socrates spent his last days here. Or did he?

Though this is a popular spot for tour guides to take tourists and prattle on and on about Socrates last days, it has been brought to light that these openings within the rock are probably no more than the remains of an ancient Mycenaean building. The real location of the philosopher’s prison was probably located near the Ancient Agora, at the foot of the Acropolis. Though no one is sure, it is interesting to visit this location and imagine poor Socrates passing the time behind the iron gates before his demise.

Continuing on, we followed the trail, climbing higher and higher up the steep rocky paths. As we came to a bend in our route, we moved out onto an opening and a rock outcropping. Here, we got our first views of the Acropolis from a different perspective. Having been to the Acropolis on multiple occasions, seen it from below in the Plaka and from afar from my hotel’s rooftop terrace, it was something to see from an adjacent hill. As we stared in wonder, we also noticed the amazing views to be gotten of Mount Lycabettus and the Saronic Gulf and I imagined that it would be an amazing location to take in the sunset.

Climbing higher, we finally reached the pinnacle of our ascent where the Monument to Philapappou, an ancient Greek mausoleum dedicated to Gaius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos (65-116 AD), rests. A prince from the Kingdom of Commagene, Philopappos was highly respected and one of the greatest benefactors of the city.

Upon his death, which caused great grief to not only his family, but also to the citizens of Athens, it was decided that a tomb would be erected on Muses Hill. Built on the same site where 6th century poet and mystical seer, Museaios was entombed, the two story marble structure is an elaborately carved structure on par with the Acropolis…its location showing his great status within the city.

Following the main path, past the Philapappou Monument, we found the Shrine of the Muses, cut into the rock face just below the top of the hill. This shrine was created in honor of the goddesses of creative inspiration. Philapappou Hill is also known as the Hill of the Muses for it being the home of the nine muses of Greek mythology.

Heading down the hill, we finally came to the Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris, a 15th century Byzantine church. By now, everyone should know how much I love churches and of course, I was thrilled to unexpectedly find this charming chapel during the midst of our exploration of Philapappou Hill. Though it offered a peaceful place to rest for a moment, I was frustrated to find the church locked. I was especially disappointed later when I learned that this church is decorated with beautiful frescoes. I also learned that its surname, “Loumbardiaris” (the Bomardier) was earned as it was saved by a miracle in 1658 when the Turkish commander of the Acropolis, Yusuf, was planning to bomb the church from the Propylaea. The following day, as they prepared to attack, a lightening strike hit the gunpowder magazine, causing an explosion which killed Yusuf and his entire family.

Since I was unable to examine the interior of this historical structure, I made myself content to walk around and survey its exterior architectural features. A spectacular find that I will certainly return to see again!

A good part of our morning had been fulfilled with the exploration of Philapappou Hill. There was much more as two nearby hills are connected to this beautiful green space within the city of Athens and we decided to continue our excursion.

What else would we find?

If you are in the area and find yourself with time before or after your visit to the Acropolis, make the short walk to Philapappou Hill and discover the treasures scattered around this beautiful promontory. Have a picnic, enjoy the views and maybe even the sunset!

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Filopappos Hill

  • Address: Thissio, Athens, 104 38 Athens, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Prison of Socrates

  • Address: Filapappou Hill, 43, Rovertou Galli 39, Athens 117 41
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Akropoli station

Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris

Meet Me There

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One of the things I love about European cities is their public squares.

At any hour of the day, you can find people sitting on the benches, relaxing, talking and watching their children play. They are also the perfect meeting points for those coming together from various points in the city.

Many of these squares have beautiful fountains and artwork and are attractive to tourists for their outdoor cafes, perfect for people watching.

My favorite square in Madrid, is the Plaza Mayor. One of the first places I ever visited years ago, I still love it’s warm medieval ambiance, the many restaurants that spill into the plaza, the performers and the multitude of traditional artists that come each day and night to sell their wares. As proof, many of their paintings grace the walls of my home.

Plaza Mayor
Street Performers

In the heart of Madrid, the Plaza Mayor was first built during the Hapsburg period of Philip III’s reign in the 15th century, just down the road from another famous plaza, Puerta del Sol. It was originally named, Plaza del Arrabal and used as the main market. After the plaza’s transferral to the city of Madrid in 1561, renovations resulted and after three major fires in its history, what you see today can be credited to architect Juan de Villanueva who lowered the surrounding buildings, closed the corners and created large entrances to the square.

Measuring 423 feet by 308 feet, the square contains 237 balconies, nine gates and a statue of Philip III on a horse in the center. In the past, executions and bullfights were once held here, but today, its major (and much milder) events include the annual Christmas market and on Sunday mornings, a stamp collecting and coin collecting market.

Plaza Mayor Gate
Statue of Philip III

Next to the Plaza Mayor, on Arco de Cuchillero Street, is something that should not be missed on a visit to Madrid. The Restaurante Botin, one of my favorites, which is the oldest restaurant in the world and offers some affordable and delectable culinary delights.

Another spot that people meet in Madrid is close by…Puerta del Sol. Not only a meeting spot now, but a popular location in the past.

Between the 17th and 19th centuries, the Puerta del Sol’s Post Office was the destination for couriers coming from other areas of Spain. Residents, eager for the latest news, would congregate in the hopes of gleaning what they could from the couriers and each other.

The square originated as one of the gates in the city wall that once surrounded Madrid in the 15th century. The name of the gate, which faced east, came from the rising sun which decorated the entry. Today, there is no trace of the ancient wall or the gate, but there are other landmarks that many descend upon the area to see.

The former House of the Post Office, by Jacques Marquet was completed in 1768, now houses the seat of the Presidency of the Madrid Community. Situated across the street from the square, you can also find Kilometer Zero embedded in the sidewalk just under the building’s clock tower. This monumental slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.

Old Post Office
Kilometer Zero Plaque

Within the square, you can find a mounted statue of Charles III of Spain (El Rey Alcalde, the mayor-king) who is honored here for the extensive public works he set in motion.

Statue of Charles III

Another famous statue is The Bear and the Strawberry Tree (el Osso y el Madroño) which is the symbol of Madrid. I will always remember this statue as once I was instructed to meet someone there, not knowing it had been moved (in 2009) from the north side at the entrance to Calle del Carmen. Needless to say, I couldn’t find it and my name was mud with the person the next day!

The Bear and the Strawberry Tree

Another interesting statue found in the square is the Mariblanca. This statue is a copy, possibly of the famous Venus de Milo and marks the place of a former fountain displaying that figure.

My favorite thing in the square, however, can be found high overhead. The Tío Pepe lighted sign is located above the square’s former Paris Hotel. After a three year absence for renovation of the building, the sign, was returned to its original location in 2014. Tío Pepe (Spanish for Uncle Joe) has been greeting visitors to Puerta del Sol, since 1938, while enticing them to try the famous brand of Sherry.

Tio Pepe Sign

Puerta del Sol has been the site of many demonstrations over the years, but mainly attracts visitors for its shopping, restaurants and sites. Not to be missed, if you find yourself traveling through the city on Madrid’s extensive metro and are passing through Sol, jump on out and check it out.

Just recently, I had the pleasure to stay near the Plaza de España. This beautiful square exhibits more of a park like feel and is extremely peaceful, though still located in an extremely urban area.

Located at the intersection of Grand Vía and Princesa streets, there is a large number of hotels, shopping and restaurants located nearby as well as the Royal Palace.

Despite the many attractions located in this area, however, many people come to Plaza España to see the Cervantes Monument, sculpted by Rafael Martínez Zapatero and Lorenzo Cullaut Valera. Commissioned by King Alfonso XIII on the anniversary of the publication of the second part of Don Quixote, the main part of the fountain with the figures of Don Quixote and his squire Sancho Panzo was erected in the 1920’s but not fully completed until the 1960’s when the sculptures of Aldonza and Dulcinea were added on the side.

Cervantes Monument
Cervantes Monument, rear

Two architecturally important buildings flank the square, Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana, two of the tallest buildings in Madrid, thrilling those impressed by progress. For those, however, who want to enjoy nature, Plaza España offers shaded and wooded areas, a fountain and pond and seasonal landscaping.

Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana

After a long walk, I grabbed a seat opposite the monument to rest and enjoy the view. Glancing at my watch, I noticed it to be almost five, the time I had planned to meet a friend here. After my long walk from Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, my feet were enjoying the respite and my eyes were enjoying the natural and architectural gems set before me.

Maybe I should have made it five-thirty…

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Plaza Mayor

Puerta del Sol

Plaza de España



High On A Hill

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Sitting high on a hill in Paris is a beautiful, white church.  The Sacre Coeur.

The Roman Catholic church and minor basilica, designed by Paul Abadie, took thirty-nine years to complete and is one of the most visited landmarks in the city behind the Eiffel Tower.  Not only dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the basilica represents a penance for the defeat of France in the 1871 Franco-Prussian War and the socialist Paris Commune of 1871.  From its vantage point on the Butte Montmartre, it is the recognized center of one of Paris’s most famous neighborhoods.

Montmartre is one of my favorite places in Paris.  I love watching the artists paint in the Place du Tertre, the hoards of tourists and sampling the fabulous array of food choices.  I love strolling the park-like setting of the Montmartre cemetery, strolling by Van Gogh’s former apartment, the Moulin de laGalette and then posing with the Passer Through Walls statue. My favorite thing, however, is paying a visit to the remarkable Sacre Coeur.

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A most beautiful basilica, I am always quieted by its interior with dazzling mosaics, colorful stained glass windows and handsome organ, built by Aristide Cavaillé-Coll.

Though we did pass through the interior, our main reason for coming to the Sacre Coeur was to visit the Dome.

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IMG_8254Paying our entrance fees, we began the arduous climb (over 300 steps) to the top of the Dome.  Though I had to stop a few times and my legs were quite shaky, we reached the top and Oh! What a view!

The entire city of Paris was spread before us from the forecourt of the Basilica.  Earlier, we had seen the city from the level of the River Seine, now we were seeing it over 200 meters higher and from a different vantage point than the Eiffel Tower, the highest point in Paris.  The entire city and countryside can be observed from the narrow balcony that circles the dome for a 360 degree view.

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The upper architecture of the basilica can also be inspected from this perspective…the compelling rooflines, the rain diverting gargoyles and the adjacent lofty towers.  And the best part…I could look down on the entirety of my favorite area, Montmartre.

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Finally, we made our way down the three hundred (or so) stairs, a much easier journey down than up.

In Paris, there are many ways to spy upon the city…the Dome of the Pantheon, Montparnasse Tower, the Eiffel Tower, but go to the Sacre Couer for visions of one of the most interesting parts of the city!  It’s a double deal…see the interior and the surrounding area.

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Sacre Coeur Basilica

  • http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/english/
  • Address:  35, Rue du Chevalier De La Barre, 75018 Paris
  • Hours:  Main Entrance, Esplanade of the Basilica, 0600-2230
  • Admission:  Basilica, free.  Dome, Adults €6, Children, €4 (4-16yrs)
  • Getting There:  Metro:  Jules Joffrin (M° 12) + Montmartrobus (Place du Tertre stop),  Pigalle (M° 12, M° 2) + Montmartrobus (Norvins stop), Anvers (M° 2) + Cable car (métro ticket) or steps, Abbesses (M° 12) + Cable car (métro ticket) or steps.  Bus:  30 – 31 – 80 – 85 (Anvers Sacré-Coeur bus stop at foot of Montmartre)