Marken – Snapping The Globe

Edam, Volendam and Marken…what do they have in common?

Edam, Volendam and Marken are some of the cities, towns, villages and districts that make up the municipality of Waterland in the Netherlands.

Having been to many parts of the Netherlands, it is sometimes hard to find something that I haven’t already done. Arriving at the train station on the early side, we were still undecided as to our destination. One option was Kinderdijk in the north, the other was to revisit Volendam, but with the addition of Edam and Marken, two cities that I had not seen before. After realizing that the Marken ferry was still in operation, we decided to head to the back of the train station to the bus departure area and buy a Waterland ticket.

The Waterland area comprises picturesque fishing villages and beautiful countryside built on polders and is a wonderful day trip while visiting the Amsterdam area. It is easily accessible by the EBS bus system from Amsterdam Central Station.

After a thirty-minute bus ride, we disembarked in Edam for the beginning of our adventure. A picturesque little town, everything seemed so quiet that I had to stop and think about what day it was. Seeming more like a Sunday, no one was on the streets and many stores appeared to be shut down. After crossing one of the town’s lift bridges, we enjoyed the local homes with their quirky artistic displays and the Carillon tower on our walk towards the center of town.

The Carillon tower is all that remains of a late gothic church and is the oldest clockwork in the Netherlands, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The belltower for the Church of Our Dear Lady still stands despite the demolition of the church in 1882. The tower, threatening to fall, in 1972, was shored up with steel girder sand restored. The tower was not open for inspection, but we learned that it houses the Association for the Conservation of the IJsselmeer. The bells, made by Pieter van den Ghein, ring a short melody every fifteen minutes and we were serenaded as we made our way into the center of town.

In the town center, Damplein square, we located a nice cheese shop with a friendly owner who chatted with us as we purchased some goodies…cheeses, of course and the most delicious curry mayonnaise. Ducking into a small café, we had a quick drink while we inspected the map for things to do and see.

Originating from the twelfth century, Edam, became prosperous through ship building and merchant trading. Not as busy as its neighbor, Volendam, it is quiet and famous for its cheese, which is named for the town. The cheese, sold in rounded cylinders, is semi-hard, pale yellow, coated in red paraffin wax, ages well and does not spoil. Because of these qualities, it became a popular cheese between the 14th and 18th centuries due to its stability.

Deciding to skip the Edam museum, a crooked building near the Damplein, we headed toward the Grote Kerk. Arriving at the 15th century Sint Nicholaaskerk (St. Nicholas Church), we discovered that it would not open until after one o’clock. Walking around the cemetery at the rear of the building we inspected the many unique gravestones and statues.

Our next stop was the Kaaswaag. Though the weighing and demonstrations take place in this square during the summer months, we were able to see the exterior of the building and the bronze statues of two traditional cheese carriers hauling a cheese cradle.

Passing the 18th century baroque-style Town Hall, we headed down the main street towards Fort Edam. After a 20 minute walk, we soon found ourselves at the gates of Fort Edam. Theme of the day in Edam? Closed. Peering in, we eyed the aged structure that was once the line of defense from attacks from the north. Not able to enter, we turned around and made our way back from which we came, aiming to catch the next bus and a busier city.

Catching the next bus to Volendam, we were excited for what the town would hold for us, besides lunch!

A couple of years prior, I had visited Volendam during the month of November. Cold, rainy and blustery, it was not an optimum day as we made our way to the waterfront where the wind whipped the waves over the seawall. After a quick lunch, we had visited one of the photo shops, dressed in traditional costumes and had a great time taking an assortment of pictures with the help of a friendly photographer.

This time, with much nicer weather, we traced the same path into town. The streets were still filled with tourists, despite it being so late in the season.

The Dutch town of Volendam, located on the Markermeer Lake is known for its colorful wooden houses, red roofs and old fishing boats that rest in its harbor. There are many seafood vendors lining the harbor and two fascinating museums, the Volendam Museum, featuring paintings, sculptures, pottery, traditional costumes and art from 19th century artists who visited the area and the Palingsound Museum, which chronicles the local music scene.

Seeking out the fish and chips restaurant that I had dined in prior, we ducked in for a quick but delicious lunch. After our meal, we posed with the statues along the waterfront, admired the fine views of the Ijsselmeer (former Zuider Zee), visited the many shops and then unbelievably found the same photography studio with the same photographer! The studio had changed a bit, but the photographer remembered me and my friends who had visited on that day.

Changing back into our own clothing, we headed across the pedestrian walkway to the Marken ferry. Climbing aboard, we were soon sailing out of the harbor and across the Markermeer Lake to the island of Marken.

Marken’s harbor was filled with boats, restaurants, shops and other tourists waiting to take the ferry on its return to Volendam. The small town was equally as quiet as Edam had been. The buildings, however, were much more unique.

The beautifully painted wooden buildings were built on man-made hills called werven and those that were not, were built on stilts to protect in times of flooding. We made our way along the streets almost lost in time. Many of the buildings were decked out with unique Halloween and Fall displays, even some with authentic cobwebs. Because it was so late in the day, we did not visit some of Marken’s attractions, The Marker Museum, The Original House of Marken, the Lighthouse and the Wooden Shoe Factory, opting only to revel in the beauty of the architecture and charm of the town.

Eventually, all paths lead to the bus stop and we were on our way back to Amsterdam. Back to the hustle and bustle of the capital city and away from the simplistic lifestyle of Waterland. While visiting Amsterdam, if you want to experience the Netherlands of old, be sure to take a day to head out to the Waterland area…you will not be disappointed.

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Getting to Waterland

EBS bus service runs throughout the area and covers all the main towns, villages and places of interest in Waterland. There are two types of EBS buses, the standard yellow EBS buses and the red and grey R-NET branded buses. All buses have free Wifi and are wheelchair accessible.

EBS Waterland buses depart from the IJ waterside upper level bus terminal of Amsterdam Central station. Bus departure times are clearly marked on the screens and there is an EBS ticket and information office.

Sint Nicholaaskerk

http://www.grotekerkedam.nl/
Address: Grote Kerkstraat 57, 1135 BC Edam, Netherlands
Hours: April 2 thru October 23, 1330 to 1700
Admission: free

Kaaswaag (Edam Weigh House)

http://www.edamcheeseshop.com/weigh%20house.html
Address: Jan Nieuwenhuizenplein 5, 1135 WT EDAM
Hours: Kaaswaag Edam is open every day between April and September
Admission: free

Fort Edam

http://www.fortbijedam.nl/
Address: Oorgat 10, 1135 CR Edam, Netherlands
Hours: Open every 1st and 2nd Sunday of each month, April to October. 1100-1600.
Admission: free

Volendam Museum

http://www.volendamsmuseum.nl/
Address: Zeestraat 41, 1131 ZD Volendam, Netherlands
Hours: 1000-1700, March to October, daily
Admission: Adults, €3, Children, ages 0-13, €1.75

Palingsound Museum

http://www.smitbokkum.nl/palingsoundmuseum/
Address: Slobbeland 19, 1131 AA Volendam, Nederland
Hours: Tuesday thru Sunday, 1000-1800
Admission: €1.75

Marken Ferry

http://en.markenexpress.nl/
Address: Haven 39, 1131 EP Volendam, Netherlands
Hours: 1000 (first departure, Volendam-Marken), 1700 (last departure, Volendam-Marken)
Tickets: Adults, return ticket, €9.95, one-way, €7.50, Children, ages 4-11, return ticket, €6.95, one-way, €5.00.

Marker Museum

http://www.markermuseum.nl/
Address: Kerkbuurt 44/47, 1156 BL Marken, The Netherlands
Hours: April 1 thru September 30, 1000-1700, October 1 thru November 1, 1000-1600, Sundays, 1200-1600
Admission: Adults, €3, Children, ages 0-12 years, €1.50

Original House of Marken

http://infomarken.com/en/attractions/original-house-of-marken/
Havenbuurt 22, 1156 AM Marken, The Netherlands
Hours: Monday thru Sunday, 1030-1800, daily

Wooden Shoe Factory

https://woodenshoefactory-marken.myshopify.com/
Kets 52, 1156 AX Marken, Netherlands
Hours: Open 365 days a year, Summer season (March 23-October 30), 1000-1945, Winter season (October 31-March 22), 1100-1730