Athens – Snapping The Globe

One Last Thing

Our feet were tired and we were hot and thirsty.

But…there was “one last thing” that I wanted to see on our way back to our hotel.

The Ancient Agora of Athens.

I had been here many years ago, but only remembered that it was during the winter and I was so cold that I cut our visit short. What was within the gates? I didn’t remember any of the major landmarks, only walking through some of the small ruins.

Having had such a long day, I think that if my husband and son had realized how much there was to do and see here, I don’t think they would have agreed to this “one last thing”. Nevertheless, our entry was free with the Combined Ticket we had purchased with our admission to the Acropolis, so I was determined that we would get our money’s worth!

The grand Stoa of Attalos, closest to the entry gate was where we decided to begin our exploration of the area. This column-fronted building is a remarkable example of Hellenistic architecture, fully restored from 1952-1956, and contains the Museum of the Ancient Agora.

The stoa, dating back to 150 BC, was built by Attalos II, the ruler of Pergamon, as a gift to the city of Athens for the education he received there. It was thought to have once operated as a commercial center with shops on each floor. Built of marble and limestone, it was much larger and elaborate than most of the buildings constructed in ancient Athens and exhibited different types of architectural orders. As we walked through the colonnades, on the main floor we noticed that the Doric order was used for the exterior and Ionic for the interior. Similarly, on the upper floor, the exterior was Ionic and the interior, Pergamene. Moving throughout the building, even with the intense heat of the day, the building was well lighted and ventilated through doorways and small windows.

The museum was especially interesting with it collections of clay, bronze and glass objects, coins, inscriptions from the 7th to the 5th century BC and pottery from the Byzantine period and Turkish conquest. Most captivating were the detailed sculptures depicting some of the Athenian citizens…so detailed in some cases that you almost expected movement. Also related in great detail, throughout the museum, is the history of the Agora area and how it developed over the ages.

Once our visit to the museum was complete, we moved out into the Ancient Agora, the area where Athenians would often gather to trade information and goods. There were many paths among the ruins and much to discover.

Making our way toward the north-west side of the property, we discovered the Temple of Hephaestus, one of the most well-preserved pieces of architecture in the city. Situated atop the Agoraios Kolonos hill, construction on the building began in 449 BC and took almost three decades to complete as attention to building the Parthenon took priority.

The temple, dedicated to Hephaestus, the ancient god of fire and Athena, goddess of pottery and crafts, had a variety of uses over the years, resulting in the buildings continual upkeep. It’s longest purpose, however, was serving as the Greek Orthodox church of Saint George Akamates from the 7th century until 1834. Shortly after the arrival of the first King of Greece, Otto I, it was ordered that the building be used as a museum. It remained in this capacity until 1934, when it was reverted to the status of ancient monument.

The building’s grounds are well kept and heavily planted with shrubs and a well-paved walkway around its perimeter. As you make your way around the building, be sure to take note of the eastern and western friezes, the grand Doric columns (6 on the east and west sides and 13 on the north and south sides) and the sculptures depicting the labors of Hercules and the Battle of Theseus with the Pallentides, the fifty children of Pallas and the Fall of Troy.

Heading back along the southern rim of the property, we discovered the Church of the Holy Apostles (also known as the Holy Apostles of Solaki). When excavations began on the Ancient Agora in 1931, there were many churches located in the area. All were removed except for this small, Byzantine church, which has been dated back to 1000 AD, one of the oldest in Athens. After extensive restorations, this little church is now one of the highlights of the Ancient Agora with its colorful frescoes and intricate stone work.

With the heat wearing us down, we headed toward the exit. Leaving my husband and son near the exit I made a quick detour, moving toward the Monument of the Eponymous Heroes. This marble podium previously displayed the bronze statues of the ten heroes of the tribes of Athens, Erechtheus, Aegeus, Pandion, Leos, Acamas, Oeneus, Cecrops II, Hippothoon and Aias. Once used as a pulpit where proposed legislation, decrees and announcements were announced, I must admit that I was a bit disheartened to find it in poor condition, only displaying a shell of its former grandeur.

As I spotted my husband and son waiting patiently for me under the shade of a large tree, I stopped quickly to inspect Odeon of Agrippa statues that remain as the only part of the concert hall that once stood in the center of the Ancient Agora. Built in 15 BC, it was a gift to the people of Athens from Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa (Roman statesman and general) and was able to seat crowds of 1,000. After architectural damage throughout the years, it was finally destroyed by the Herulians in 267 AD.

Thinking about he destruction of the Odeon of Agrippa, I thought about how many times the Agora was destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries. Abandoned and forgotten, it was finally brought to light when excavations began in 1931.

Learning so much more on this visit than on my previous, I was glad that I had dragged my husband and son here. It is strange to think that only eighty-eight years ago, the citizens of Athens did not know that this site would someday become a place for thousands of tourists to wander about, learning about the commerce of the ancient Athenians.

Though we were ready for a nap and a cold shower, I was glad that we had made the detour and that my family had agreed to my impulse.

Sometimes that “one last thing” is the thing you remember most.

Other notable sites within the Ancient Agora:

The Ruins of the Tholos
The Propylon to the Bouleuterion
The surviving torso of a statue of the Roman Emperor Hadrian
Ruins of the Metroon
Great drainage canal on the agora
The Altar of Zeus Agoraios
The ruins of the civic offices.
The Klepsydra (water clock used to time speeches).
Southeast Fountain House
Remains of the Triangular Shrine
Two noteworthy ancient streets, The Road to Pireas and the street of the marble workers.
The ruins of the state prison
The Dekasterion (court house)
The NE Bath
The Middle Stoa

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Ancient Agora of Athens

http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=2485#_=_
Address: Adrianou 24, Athina 105 55, Greece
Hours: November to March, 0800-1500, April to October, 0800-2000, daily
Admission: Adult, €8.00, Reduced rate, €4.00, Children under 18 years, free. Combination ticket, includes admission to Acropolis, Temple of Zeus, Ancient Agora, Roman Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Keramikos Cemetery and Lyceum of Aristotle, €30.00

The Sermon on the Hill

“Now what you worship as something unknown I am going to proclaim to you. The God who made the world and everything in it is the Lord of heaven and earth and does not live in temples built by hands.”

These words were spoken by the Apostle Paul during his sermon on Areopagus Hill in Athens. This sermon (Areopagus sermon, Acts 17:24) was responsible for the conversion of his first believers, Dionysios Areopagitus and a woman, Damari. After his conversion to Christianity, Dionysios was baptized with his family in 52 AD and became the first Bishop of Athens. Upon his death as a Christian martyr by burning, he was later venerated as a saint in the Catholic and Eastern Orthodox churches and became the Patron Saint of the city.

Such an important piece of biblical history, there are many who do not realize that the place that this sermon took place is located just below the Acropolis. Between the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora this hill is one that many, upon the descent from the Acropolis, head over to climb, because, well…they see everyone else doing it.

It does offer outstanding views of the city, the Ancient Agora and the Acropolis, but many do not realize its significance.

In Greek mythology, Areopagus Hill was the place where the council of gods held a trial for the god of war, Aris, who was accused of the murder of the son of Poseidon, Halirrhothios. In Greek history, it was the location of murder trials and also the location where Mycenaean graves were discovered. Religious buildings once stood on top of the hill but were eventually decimated by earthquakes.

Today, at any given time, you can spot large numbers of people shuffling around on the slippery apex, hoping to get the best views of the city and the best selfies with the Acropolis towering over them. The hill is easily accessible from steps carved into rocky hillside and from a metal staircase located on the left-hand side of the hill.

Words of warning…the steps are quite slippery, but its an amazing place to gather your where-abouts and admire the views.

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Areopagus Hill

http://www.eie.gr/archaeologia/gr/02_DELTIA/Areopagus.aspx
Address: Theorias 21, Athina 105 55, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Acropolis

The Birthplace of Democracy

Coming off of our exploration of the Hill of the Muses or Philapappou Hill, we continued walking the paths of the city’s alluring green space, making our way from one hill to the next…the Pnyx.

The birthplace of democracy.

From 508 BC, Pnyx Hill was the meeting place of the Democratic Assembly. Citizens assembled here ten times a year to make political decisions and take note of the orators speeches, including those of Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles and Themistocles.

As I walked from Philapappou Hill, I encountered a small rocky hill surrounded by parkland. A large flat platform of eroded stone was set to one side with steps carved into the slope. The podium, or Bema, offered a raised area for leaders to address the crowds who were seated in a semicircle, first on the ground and then later on wooden benches which were installed to accommodate the growing crowds.

The first question posed to the crowd was always an open invitation, “Tis agoreuein Bouletai?”

“Who wishes to speak to the assembly?”

As the acceptance of democracy spread, crowds grew from 5,000 to more than 13,000, finally outgrowing the Pnyx and moving to the Theater of Dionysus at the base of the Acropolis.

The Bema is cordoned off for protection, however, make sure to climb to the top area where you can find the former locations of the Sanctuary of Zeus Hypsistos, the Altar of Zeus Agoraios and Meton’s Solar Clock.

As we continued on toward the exit of the Pnyx, we located the retaining Wall of Pnyx built during the Hellenistic period and which offered protection to the area. Other items of interest, not to be missed, are the Sanctuary of Pan and the Fountain of Pnyx.

The Sanctuary of Pan was a religious shrine on the south slope. Not one to display monumental or architectural embellishments, it was a simple chamber which exhibited a relief, representing semi-God Pan, a naked Nymph and a dog. Outside of the doorway of the shrine, an ancient mosaic is protected by plexiglass.

The Fountain of Pnyx is also located nearby, and dates back to the 6th century. This fountain is a rock-carved cistern which collected and stored water for the city of Athens. Though you are unable to view it up close, the chamber is covered with a mosaic floor.

Though we viewed both of these from outside the park’s gates, this seemed to offer the best viewing area.

Since the both hills, Philapappou and Pnyx, are connected, make sure to continue your walk to encounter all that both have to offer. You can even continue up to Nymph Hill which houses the National Observatory during the evening hours.

If time is not of the essence and you’ve seen Athen’s major sights, it is worth the time to take a leisurely walk and encounter many of Athens off-the-beaten-track bits of history.

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Pnyx Hill

Address: Athens 117 41, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Thission stop
Sanctuary of Pan

Address: Apostolou Pavlou 1, Athina 118 51, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Thission stop

Fountain of Pnyx

Address: Apostolou Pavlou, Athina 118 51, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Thission stop

The Hill Of the Muses

Socrates.

One of the most widely recognized classical Greek philosophers in history, he was also known as the founder of Western philosophy. It was his unique teachings and thoughts, however, that led to his demise. In 399 BC, Socrates went on trial and was found guilty of corruption and impiety. After being imprisoned, he was sentenced to death by poison.

Searching a map of Athens, I noticed on Philapappou Hill (also known as the Hill of the Muses), a landmark noting the location of the Prison of Socrates. Since I had never had the opportunity to walk to the top of this hill to inspect the monument to Philapappou (that I had seen from the nearby Acropolis) I decided that it would be a good destination for that day and being able to search out the location of this historical prison would be a bonus.

Heading up the pedestrian friendly Dionysiou Areopagitou street, I entered the park gates and headed up the marble paved pathways. Welcoming the shady pine-covered trails, I looked for signs leading to my destinations. There were none, however, finding the first item on my list was not all that difficult as it seemed that most other tourists were headed that way.

The Prison of Socrates was nothing more than a cave with iron bars…still, it was interesting to think that Socrates spent his last days here. Or did he?

Though this is a popular spot for tour guides to take tourists and prattle on and on about Socrates last days, it has been brought to light that these openings within the rock are probably no more than the remains of an ancient Mycenaean building. The real location of the philosopher’s prison was probably located near the Ancient Agora, at the foot of the Acropolis. Though no one is sure, it is interesting to visit this location and imagine poor Socrates passing the time behind the iron gates before his demise.

Continuing on, we followed the trail, climbing higher and higher up the steep rocky paths. As we came to a bend in our route, we moved out onto an opening and a rock outcropping. Here, we got our first views of the Acropolis from a different perspective. Having been to the Acropolis on multiple occasions, seen it from below in the Plaka and from afar from my hotel’s rooftop terrace, it was something to see from an adjacent hill. As we stared in wonder, we also noticed the amazing views to be gotten of Mount Lycabettus and the Saronic Gulf and I imagined that it would be an amazing location to take in the sunset.

Climbing higher, we finally reached the pinnacle of our ascent where the Monument to Philapappou, an ancient Greek mausoleum dedicated to Gaius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos (65-116 AD), rests. A prince from the Kingdom of Commagene, Philopappos was highly respected and one of the greatest benefactors of the city.

Upon his death, which caused great grief to not only his family, but also to the citizens of Athens, it was decided that a tomb would be erected on Muses Hill. Built on the same site where 6th century poet and mystical seer, Museaios was entombed, the two story marble structure is an elaborately carved structure on par with the Acropolis…its location showing his great status within the city.

Following the main path, past the Philapappou Monument, we found the Shrine of the Muses, cut into the rock face just below the top of the hill. This shrine was created in honor of the goddesses of creative inspiration. Philapappou Hill is also known as the Hill of the Muses for it being the home of the nine muses of Greek mythology.

Heading down the hill, we finally came to the Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris, a 15th century Byzantine church. By now, everyone should know how much I love churches and of course, I was thrilled to unexpectedly find this charming chapel during the midst of our exploration of Philapappou Hill. Though it offered a peaceful place to rest for a moment, I was frustrated to find the church locked. I was especially disappointed later when I learned that this church is decorated with beautiful frescoes. I also learned that its surname, “Loumbardiaris” (the Bomardier) was earned as it was saved by a miracle in 1658 when the Turkish commander of the Acropolis, Yusuf, was planning to bomb the church from the Propylaea. The following day, as they prepared to attack, a lightening strike hit the gunpowder magazine, causing an explosion which killed Yusuf and his entire family.

Since I was unable to examine the interior of this historical structure, I made myself content to walk around and survey its exterior architectural features. A spectacular find that I will certainly return to see again!

A good part of our morning had been fulfilled with the exploration of Philapappou Hill. There was much more as two nearby hills are connected to this beautiful green space within the city of Athens and we decided to continue our excursion.

What else would we find?

If you are in the area and find yourself with time before or after your visit to the Acropolis, make the short walk to Philapappou Hill and discover the treasures scattered around this beautiful promontory. Have a picnic, enjoy the views and maybe even the sunset!

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Filopappos Hill

Address: Thissio, Athens, 104 38 Athens, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Prison of Socrates

Address: Filapappou Hill, 43, Rovertou Galli 39, Athens 117 41
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Akropoli station

Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris

https://www.facebook.com/agiosdimitriosloumpardiaris/
Address: Filapappou Hill, Athens 117 41, Greece
Hours: 0800-1200, 1700-2000, daily
Admission: free

First Cemetery of Athens

Athens is a place where historical landmarks are a dime a dozen.

The Acropolis, Temple of Zeus, Hadrian’s Arch (to name a few)…you can take you pick of so many to fill your time while visiting the ancient city.

Since I’ve been to most of these places, I was on the lookout for something different. Thinking back on my visit to the Keremeikos Ancient Cemetery, I realized that there had to be more modern cemeteries within the city, much like those of Paris (Pere Lachaise), Milan (Monumentale) and Buenos Aires (La Recoleta).

After conducting a bit of research, I discovered that the official cemetery of the City of Athens dates back to 1837. A prestigious burial place sought out by both Greeks and foreigners, it was the first to be built within the city’s limits and located not far from the Panathenaic Stadium.

Setting out in the warm, sunny afternoon, I made the journey quickly and soon found myself at the top end of Anapafseos Street.

Admittedly, the entrance to the cemetery was a bit disappointing as it is scaffolded, presently under construction. One inside, however, I was greeted immediately on my left with one of the cemetery’s three churches, the Church of Saint Theodores (the other two being Saint Lazarus and Saint Charles). Though the church was not open, I enjoyed its blue painted architecture and single slim belltower standing tall in the bright afternoon.

Making my way through the more elaborate tombs located in the forefront of the cemetery, I admired those of Heinrich Schliemann, German businessman and archaeological excavator of the cities of Troy, Mycenae and Tiryns, Ioannis Pesmazoglou, Greek banker, economist and politician and Georgios Averoff, businessman, philanthropist and one of the great national benefactors of Greece.

Making the steep walk towards the rear of the cemetery, I was in search of something special…the tomb with the famous sculpture of a dead young girl called I Koimomeni (“The Sleeping Girl”), created by Yannoulis Chalepas. A bit of exploration was in order, as there are others that appeared to be very similar. I soon found the serene sculpture immortalized by sculptor Chalepas and wondered about her fate. It was later that I learned that the sleeping girl, Sophia Afentaki, was born in 1855 and died of tuberculosis at the age of 18 years.

Continuing my exploration, I was saddened by the overgrown condition of many parts of the cemetery and took extra time to pay respects to many of the graves in the area. Many of the graves and tombs were obviously quite expensive and many housed the remains of many members of Greek families and on the opposite end of the spectrum, there were also many grave sites that were quite modest.

Winding my way deeper and deeper into the cemeteries bounds, I discovered unique sculpture, touching mementos, fresh and dying flowers, distinctly crafted lanterns and fading photos. What I didn’t encounter, however, were other visitors. The cemetery was perfectly empty and quiet.

After a while, the peace and quiet became quite disconcerting. Realizing that I was probably a bit vulnerable, alone in a cemetery, even in the daylight, I decided to head back to the front of the graveyard, passing the burial areas reserved for Protestants and Jews.

The Cemetery of Athens was a unique experience, one that most tourists do not search out despite it’s historical and cultural significance. Though I did see a couple of other tourists in the beginning of my visit seeking out some of the famous grave sites, there were not many others that I ran across.

If it is historical or architectural significance that you seek or a desire to search out some of the famous grave sites, take a trip to the First Cemetery of Athens, a peaceful haven that will not disappoint.

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First Cemetery of Athens

Address: Logginou 3, Athina 116 36, Greece
Hours: 0800-2000, daily
Admission: free

Notable Burials within the First Cemetery of Athens:

Archbishops Christodoulos, Chrysostomos II, Seraphim and Dorotheus
Hero of Greek War of Independence, Odysseas Androutsos
Singers, Sotiria Bellou, Stratos Dionysiou, Stelios Kazantzidis, Dimitros Mitropanos, Demis Roussos, Rita Sakellariou, Sofia Vembo, Nikos Xilouris (and composer)
Poets, Odysseas Elytis, Nikos Kavvadias, Kostis Palamas, Kostis Palamas, Alexandros Rizos Rangavis, Giorgos Seferis, Angelos Sikelianos, Alexandros Panagoulis (and politician, democracy activist)
Actors, Jules Dassin, Dimitris Horn, Manos Katrakis, Vassillis Logothetidis, Orestis Makris, Thanasis Veggos, Jules Dassin ( and director), Dimitris Papamichael (and director)
Actresses, Tzeni Karezi, Marika Kotopouli, Ellie Lambeti, Zoe Laskari, Katina Paxinou, Aliki Vougiouklaki
Prime Ministers, Georgios Kafantaris, Andreas Papandreou, George Papandreou, Charilaos Trikoupis, Xenophon Zolotas
Politicians, Theodoros Kolokotronis, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, Melina Mercouri, Andreas Michalakopoulos, Grigoris Lambrakis, Nikolaos Bourandas (Police and Fire Service General), Yannis Makriyannis (and merchant, military officer author), Nikos Zachariadis (General Secretary of the Communist Party of Greece from 1931 to 1956)
Sculptor, Yannoulis Chalepas
Philanthropist and businessman, George Averoff
Painter, Demetrios Farmakopoulos
Archaeologist, Adolf Furtwangler
Filmmaker, Humphrey Jennings
Statesman, Dimitrios Kallergis
Conductor, Pianist and Composer, Dimitri Mitropoulos,
University of Athens’ Greatest Benefactor, Antonios Papadakis
Military Dictator during the Regime of the Colonels, Georgios Papadopoulos
Lawyer, Alexandros Papanastasiou
Director, Screenwriter and Lyricist,Alekos Sakellarios
Feminist, Kalliroi Parren
Amateur Archaeologist who excavated the site of Troy, Heinrich Schliemann
Great Benefactor of Greece, Michael Tositsas
Composer, Vassilis Tsitsanis
Founder of Filiki Eteria, Emmanuil Xanthos
Member of Filiki Eteria, Ioannis Varvakis
Author, T.H. White
Architect, Ernst Ziller

The Garden of Amalia

Every beautiful day deserves a walk in a beautiful garden.

Blessed with agreeable weather year round, there’s always opportunity to visit many outdoors places in Athens. One such place, is indeed, a beautiful garden.

The Athens National Gardens.

The National Garden was created between 1838 and 1840 by the first queen of Greece, Queen Amalia.

Queen Amalia, wife of king Otto, was rumored to have spent so much time (at least three hours a day) taking care of the garden, that the garden was originally named for her. When you enter the garden from Vasilissis Amalias Avenue, you can see the impressively tall Washingtonia palm trees that the queen planted, one of the highlights of the garden.

After leaving the Temple of Olympian Zeus, I crossed the road and entered the garden from Leof. Vasilissis Olgas Street, walking along the fountains leading up to the impressive structure of the Zappeion.

The Zappeion’s construction was started in 1874 and designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen. Opened on October 20, 1888, it’s main purpose was to serve as building for the Olympic games, first acting as a venue for the fencing competitions, during the 1896 Summer Olympics. Later, the building was used as the Olympic Village (1906) and then served as the first host for the organizing committee (ATHOC) for the 2004 Olympic Games from 1998 to 1999. It also served as the press center during the 2004 games.

Historically, the building has some significance besides it original purpose. In 1938, the Athens Radio Station, the country’s first national broadcaster, began operating on the premises and later continued to house the National Radio Foundation until the inauguration of the House of Radio in 1970. In 1940, it was converted into a hospital and during the following year, it was commandeered by the German army to become a storehouse and barracks. In 1979, documents were signed at the Zappeion formalizing Greece’s accession to the European Community.

Today the Zappeion is mainly used for official and private meetings and ceremonies as well as art exhibitions and occasional concerts. It is not open for tours.

Just outside the Zappeion, be sure to look for the statue of Evangelos Zappas. Buried underneath this statue is his head. There are approximately 70 other statues and works of art in the gardens immediately surrounding the Zappeion, including statues of Lord Byron and the Zappas cousins, who funded the construction of the building.

After walking around the building and through its own park, I finally entered the Athen’s National Garden, a peaceful oasis within the hustle and bustle of the ancient city.

One of the first things I encountered were the massive palms planted by the Queen Amalia. It was quite thrilling to walk between these imposing trees towering into the impossibly blue sky and think about how long ago they were planted and how they have endured.

Walking along, I encountered vine-covered walkways, which must be astonishing when in bloom and massive eucalyptus trees which provide shade during the intense heat experienced in Athens’s summer. The garden is home to 7,000 trees, 40,000 bushes and other plants which include 519 species and varieties, with 102 of them being Greek. There are Judas trees, oleanders, carob trees and foreign born Australian pines and Chinese trees-of-heaven. You can also find Centenarian Holm oaks, cypress trees and Canary Island date palms as well as plants that were introduced into the garden at its inception.

There are six lakes within the premises, one with a picturesque bridge and hundreds of ducks and fish that reside there. It is evident that these birds and amphibious creatures enjoy a well-provided-for lifestyle at the lake, as there were many small children, bag of bread in hand, eagerly obliging their requests for a hand-out. Children will also enjoy a small zoo-like collection of animals located within the park.

While exploring the gardens near the Vasilissis Sophias Avenue entrance make sure to look for the remains of the Roman floor. Uncovered during nineteenth century excavations at a depth of one meter, the well-preserved floor belonged to a the courtyard of a Roman villa.

Another popular attraction is the sun dial located near the main entrance and the Washingtonia palms. Once the primary method of telling time, visitors to the sight can be seen gazing at the sun dial and then checking their observations against their modern day timepieces for accuracy.

Other attractions within the gardens are a conservatory, where plants are cultivated before being planted in the garden, a children’s library and a small cafe where you can grab a drink or snack and refresh in the green surroundings. The entrance is located on Irodou Attikou Street. There is also a library containing two reading rooms, a fairy tale room, a music room and a film room. The library’s collections boasts 6,000 publications.

A walk in the Athens National Garden is truly a magical experience and one to include while exploring the city. Adjacent to other important attractions, this oasis beckons and protects during the sweltering parts of the day. Exercise here, meet others or just bask in its beauty.

I know…I did.

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Athens National Gardens

https://www.cityofathens.gr/episkeptes/aksiotheata/diadromes-stin-istoria-tis-athinas/o-kipos-tis-athinas
Address: Amalias 1, Αμαλίας 1, Athina 105 57, Greece
Hours: 0600-1930, daily
Admission: free

On Alert At The Arch

Snap.

Bending to the right, I adjusted my camera and focused in on Hadrian’s Arch, trying to get the best shot in the late afternoon sunshine.

Turning my body, I felt a tug on my backpack and turned to find a woman, her hands in my bag.

Confronting her, she backed away, feigning innocence in her native language. Thankfully, she was unable to get my wallet which was deep in the carryall that I don’t normally use when I travel.

Sadly, this is a common theme in Athens. Pickpockets roam the city, looking for marks in crowded areas or at monuments not normally secured by gates and guards.

What was still more shocking was that others were nearby, probably watching her trying to help herself to my hard earned cash and no one said anything.

Since this is the first time I have had an encounter of this kind…ever…especially in this ancient city, I am trying to not let it deter my affection for Athens and the spectacular history it presents.

Pickpockets aside, the Arch of Hadrian is an astonishing triumphal arch located near Syntagma square and between the rock of the Acropolis and the Temple of Zeus and should not be overlooked on any trip to Athens.

The monument was started in 131 BC to celebrate the arrival of the Roman Emperor Hadrian and to express gratitude for his contributions to the city. Though it is not known who built the arch, its location was chosen to mark the line between the ancient part of the Athens and Hadrian’s new city.

Built of marble from Mount Pentelikon, the arch, originally acting as one of the seven gates serving as a defense, reaches a height of almost sixty feet and is forty-one feet wide by almost eight feet deep. The lower area is an arched gate through which pedestrians could pass and there are two inscriptions carved into the structure. The first reads, “This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus” and the second on the opposite side, declares, “This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus”, informing of the two districts designated by Hadrian.

An important landmark in Athens, take a short walk from the central square and check it out while enroute to the other attractions in the area…the Temple of Zeus, the National Gardens and the Panathenaic Stadium.

Imagine what it was like to walk beneath this magical arch when it served as a tribute to Hadrian, a supporter of Greek culture and who did all that he could to raise Athens to a special place in the Roman Empire.

Just keep your eyes open!

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Hadrian’s Arch

Address: Leoforos Vasilisis Amalias, Athina 105 57, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Temple That Almost Wasn’t

So many ruins…so little time.

Having an interest in both history and architecture, Athens always gives me a thrill with so much to see and do in both departments. With only a short time in the city each time I visit, however, I have to accept that I may only get to squeeze in one or two sites during my outings.

Usually, after arriving, I jump into the shower, grab some caffeine and hit the streets, but sadly, after a long and demanding flight, this girl had to catch some shut eye. My grand plan to grab a tour to Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon would have to wait. Leaving later than I usually do from my hotel, time made the decision of where I would head…the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which was a short walk away.

Having been here before, I knew what to expect, but this time, I knew a bit more about the temple.

The first thing I know is that it is amazing that there are even ruins to still visit. Not in the way you might think, however.

The construction of this temple was begun in the 6th century by Pisistratus, the son of Hippocrates, also known as the Tyrant of Athens, who desired to pay tribute to the Olympian Zeus (originating from his position as head of the Olympian gods). Due to a lack of funding and the disestablishment of his son in 510 BC, construction ceased. Other attempts were made to finish the temple, by the Macedonians and Anthiochus, however, there was no completion until the Emperor Hadrian made the effort seven hundred years later.

When the building of the temple had finally concluded, it was renowned as the largest temple in Greece; there were 104 Corinthian columns and a giant gold and ivory statue of Zeus, erected by Hadrian, with a similar one of himself next to it. Today, all that remains of the entire structure are sixteen columns. Though no one knows exactly why the temple was destroyed, there is speculation of its extirpation by an earthquake and pillaging from a barbarian invasion in the third century AD . Materials from temple were then carted off to be used in various building projects throughout the city.

Today, you can still see the remaining columns standing on its original site in Athens with one lying on the ground where it fell during a storm in 1852. Two other columns can be seen in the Temple of Jupiter in Rome on Capitoline Hill, where they were brought by the Roman General Sulla.

Although you must retain a short distance from the temple, you are close enough to discover its column’s massive girth and imagine what it must have been like during its glory. You can almost imagine the colossal statues of Zeus and Hadrian holding court in the center of the temple.

Though the site is not extensive, take some time to enjoy the ruins and make sure not to miss the archaeological site on the edge of the property, highlighting some ancient structures uncovered there. Not one of the sites that most people aspire to visit, you can often find it uncrowded and enjoyable and you are able to obtain nice photos, especially in the afternoon when the sun hits the columns, almost making them glow against the perpetually cerulean sky. You can also combine your visit with a quick stop to Hadrian’s Arch located just outside the gates of the temple.

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Temple of Zeus

Address: Temple of Olympian Zeus (Archaeological Area), Vasilissis Olgas & Vasilissis Amalias Avenue , 10557 Athens (Greece)
Hours: Winter, 0830-1500, Summer, 0800-1930, daily. January 6, 0730-1930, October 28, 0730-1930. Closed March 25.
Admission: General Entrance, €2.00. Combined ticket, includes Archaeological areas of Athens (Acropolis, Acropolis Museum, Ancient Agora, Theater of Dionysus, Kerameikos, Temple of Olympian Zeus and Roman Agora, €12.00, reduced, €6.00. Free entrance to Children under the age of 18 (with ID), Students of Greek of Universities (with ID), those serving armed forces (with ID).
Getting There: By Bus, 057, 103, 108, 111, 155, 200, 208, 209, 227, 237, 856, A3, A4, B3, B4. Tram, 4. By Foot, Follow Vasilissis Amalias Avenue from Syntagma Square for about 500 meters, where you will come to the Temple of Olympian Zeus on your left.

For Athen’s Athletes…

It’s time for your morning jog…imagine running on a track rich in history. A place where ancient athletes once competed…

In Athens, you can!

Most visitors to Athens, make sure to see the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and the Forum, but many don’t realize that the Panathenaic stadium is actually one of the most significant monuments in Athens and in all of Greece.

Located in the central Athens district of Pangrati, it is here that the Olympic flame sets up its journey to the cities of the Olympic games and is one of my favorite places to visit!

In 330 BC, a simple racecourse was built on the site and became the location of the Great Panathenaea, the religious and athletic festival celebrated every four years to honor the goddess Athena. With no formal seating, spectators sat on the inclines of the adjacent ravine to view the festivities.

In 144 AD, the stadium was rebuilt by Athenian Roman senator, Herodes Atticus, also responsible for many other structures throughout the country. Constructed entirely out of marble, it was a place for the masses with 50,000 seats. By the fourth century, however, the stadium was abandoned when Hellenistic festivals and bloody spectacles were banned by Roman Emperor Theodosius I and the structure fell into ruin.

After archaeological excavations uncovered the stadium in 1869, it was readied, once again, for use. By 1870, interest was shown in a revival of the original Olympic Games and thus the Zappas Olympics was held at the stadium that year and again in 1875. Refurbishment, approximately 20 years later, prepared the stadium for the opening and closing ceremonies and as a venue for four sports for the first modern Olympics in 1896.

During the 20th century, the stadium was once again used as an Olympic venue when Athens hosted the 28th Summer Olympic Games in 2004. With the motto, “Welcome Home”, this Olympics marked the return of the games to the city where they began. More importantly, a new medal design was introduced replacing one used since 1928. Guiseppe Cassioli, had designed a medal with a colossal mistake…a design depicting the Roman Colosseum rather than a Greek venue. The new design, rightfully, featured the Panathenaic Stadium.

Today, you can visit the stadium, take a seat on the smooth marble seats in the stands or run the well-maintained track. Not only it is great exercise to take a jog, but make sure to make the steep climb to the top of the stadium for an excellent view of the overall complex and the surrounding areas.

Two interesting Greek statues grace the far part of the track…your audio guide, included in your admission, will tell you about them…but be sure to take a close look.

Also, be certain not to miss the permanent exhibition located at the far left side of the stadium, through the vaulted passage, which contains original Olympic Games posters and torches from 1896 until today. Each torch is so unique to the host country, it is quite interesting to see them up close.

Lastly, when departing the exhibition and returning to the stadium’s interior, walk slowly through the vaulted passage…think back to the athletes as they breathed deeply, readied their minds and made they way toward their dream.

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Panathenaic Stadium

http://www.panathenaicstadium.gr/Contact/tabid/93/language/en-US/Default.aspx
Address: Vasileos Konstantinou Anevue (opposite the statue of Myron Discobolus) Athens 116 35
Hours: March-October, 0800-1900, November-February, 0800-1700
Admission: Adults, 5.00€, Children under 6, free, Students and over 65 years, 2.50€, persons with disabilities and those accompanying them, free. Audio guide included.

The Amazing Acropolis

High above Athens, the Acropolis keeps watch over the city.

The flat topped, steep and rocky hill is the home to the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, the Propylaia and the temple of Athena Nike. The Acropolis’ monuments have survived for almost twenty-five centuries through wars, explosions, bombardments, fires, earthquakes, sackings, interventions and altercations and still they stand after the multitude of changes that Greece has seen over time. The heart of the city, it still represents what it originally stood for, Democracy, Philosophy, Freedom of Expression and Speech and a place where people from all continents converge.

Having visited the Acropolis on many occasions, my original intent was to visit the Acropolis museum. After finding that photography is not allowed within the building, I decided to head to the Acropolis first, saving the museum for later when I would need a place to cool off from the heat of the day.

The line for entry was quite long, encompassing tourists from many countries, however the major shock was the difference in price from my last visit. Two years ago, the admission price was only 12€…today, the entry fee has jumped to 20€. Additionally, the price from two years ago, included all of the ancient sites, Dionussus Theater and the Southern slope, Temple of Zeus, Agora and Agora Museum, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos and Roman Agora and was valid for four days. Today, you must purchase a Multi-site ticket which covers the above attractions and costs 30€.

Making my way thru the gates, I headed up the winding path among the ruins that line the pathway, with a stop to rest and admire the theater of Herod Atticus, built by the Romans in 161 AD. The theater is still used today for classical concerts, ballet and performances of high cultural value. Further on is the Theater of Dionysious, the first stone theater and home to Sophocles, Aeschylus, Euripides and Aristophanes. Rebuilt around 342 BC it was then enlarged by the Romans for gladiator flights.

After the remaining climb, I found myself at the entrance, the Propylaea, dating back to 432 BC. A magnificent first view of your destination, it is also the point where the most excited tourists, stop to take group pictures and selfies. Navigating your way around these individuals proves to be challenging, especially on the smooth marble steps.

On your left is the Pinacotheca and a Hellenistic pedestal and on the right, the tiny temple to Nike Athena. The temple commemorates the Athenians victory over the Persians and sits on a platform overlooking the islands of the Saronic Gulf.

Walking out onto the plateau, that is the Acropolis, your first views are of the Parthenon on your right and the Erecthion on your left. The buildings of the Acropolis were built by Pericles in the fifth century BC and were considered the most sacred buildings and the safest part of the city. As little as 150 years ago, there were still dwellings on the Acropolis.

The Erecthion, my favorite part of the Acropolis, contains the porch of the maidens or Caryatids. These statues are copies as four of the original statues reside in the Acropolis museum and the fifth, in the British museum. The building sits on the most sacred site of the Acropolis where Poseidon and Athena had their contest over who would be the Patron of the city. Athena, declared the victor, had the great city named for her. The building itself is the real religious temple of the Acropolis, sitting on what was the northeast corner of what was the original temple. This temple was burned and destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC.

Take the time to walk around the Erecthion and inspect all side of this structure before continuing to the Parthenon. You can get some really nice photos when the sun is behind the building in the afternoon.

The Parthenon, still being taken apart and being put together from the wear and tear of centuries of exposure to the elements is encased in scaffolding, taking away from the full beauty of the building. Restoration has been going on for the past thirty years and will probably continue onward for an equal amount of time. That being said, impressive in scale and that which we associate the Acropolis with, it is an architectural marvel. Designed by Kallikrates and Iktinos as a tribute to the past and the achievements of the Ancient Athenians it was also erected to house a giant statue of Athena. It was also not a temple or place or worship as most people assume and used as a treasury to store the tribute paid by the other Greek city-states and a storage facility for Turkish gunpowder.

After making your way around the Parthenon, move over to the northeast corner of the Acropolis to where the mighty Greek flag flies high. Standing in this location you can see many landmarks including Mount Lycabettos, the National Gardens, the Plaka, Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Zeus and the Olympic stadium. On a clear day, you can also see the port of Pireaus and some of the islands beyond.

After making your way back to the Propylaea, consider an exit to the right to visit the rock of Areopagos. The location where St. Paul spoke to the people of Athens in AD 51, there is a tablet embedded in the stone that contains his words. Despite a very slippery climb, it offers a superb view of the Agora, the Plaka, Monastiraki, Omonia and much of Athens as well as a great place to watch the sunset. Continue onward down the hill toward the Agora and other parts of this fabulous, historic city.

Because I have visited the rock of Areopagos on a few other occasions, I decided to make my way back the way I had come and toward the Acropolis museum, my original destination. Passing the many artists that line Dioysiou Aeropagitou street, one caught my eye. Purchasing two paintings, it suddenly dawned on me that I would have to carry my prizes with me for the rest of the night. So…the museum or my hotel?

Big decision…the Acropolis museum would have to wait until another day…again.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Acropolis

http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/gh351.jsp?obj_id=2384
Hours: 0800-2000, closed for some holidays
Admission: 20€
Getting There: Metro, Acropolis, then walk via Dionysiou Areopagitou Street. Metro, Monastiraki, then walk through the archaeological site of Ancient Agora, or Plaka district.