Hallowed Ground

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many soldiers gave their lives in the Battle of Gettysburg.

The battlefield’s landscape is dotted with numerous monuments which commemorate the Union and Confederate troops that fought there. More monuments can be found at the National Cemetery, which together with the battlefield form the Gettysburg National Military Park. Though many of dead soldiers’ souls may still roam the battlefield, it is there, in the cemetery, that you are reminded of who they were from their headstones.

After the Battle of Gettysburg, the toll on both sides consisted of the loss or mortal wounding of 10,000 lives, 30,000 injuries and 10,000 soldiers captured or missing. Because of the mass casualties, most of the deceased soldiers were hastily buried in shallow graves, marked by their names scrawled on wooden crosses. Exposure to the elements began to cause the erosion of the impromptu graves and it was determined that there was an immediate need for proper burials.

The decision was made to build a cemetery, using the site from which the Union center repulsed Pickett’s Charge, and ground was broken four months after the battle on October 27, 1863. Union soldiers were relocated to the cemetery and efforts were eventually made to move the Confederate soldiers’ remains to Virginia, Georgia and the Carolinas, although there are a few that remain in Gettysburg National Cemetery.

Having been to Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond, Virginia, I have seen the graves of these Confederate soldiers. I was anxious to walk around the historic cemetery in Gettysburg to observe any similarities, but I also knew that the Gettysburg National Cemetery was famous for more than gravesites, markers and monuments. There is something that makes this cemetery stand apart from landmarks in the city and other Civil War cemeteries.

On November 19, 1863, at the cemetery’s dedication, President Abraham Lincoln stood among these departed souls and delivered a two-minute address about the sacrifices of war and the necessity of holding the Union together.

The Gettysburg Address.

Four score and seven years ago our fathers brought forth on this continent, a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal.

Now we are engaged in a great civil war, testing whether that nation, or any nation so conceived and so dedicated, can long endure. We are met on a great battle-field of that war. We have come to dedicate a portion of that field, as a final resting place for those who here gave their lives that that nation might live. It is altogether fitting and proper that we should do this.

But, in a larger sense, we can not dedicate — we can not consecrate — we can not hallow — this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have consecrated it, far above our poor power to add or detract. The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here. It is for us the living, rather, to be dedicated here to the unfinished work which they who fought here have thus far so nobly advanced. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us — that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to that cause for which they gave the last full measure of devotion — that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain — that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom — and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth. —Abraham Lincoln, November 19, 1863

As I entered the gates on Taneytown Road, I immediately came upon the podium which was erected for visiting presidents who attend memorial ceremonies. To the right, is Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address Memorial.

The memorial is a semicircular stone monument which includes a bronze bust of the president, sculpted by Henry K. Bush-Brown, and two tablets on either side, one of which highlights the short speech. Though many think that such a profound address would have been inked on many pages, one of the greatest highlights of American history was only ten sentences long.

Though the memorial commemorates the Lincoln and the Gettysburg Address, the location of the great oration actually took place about three hundred yards from this spot, so I headed in that direction determined to find where it took place.

The cemetery is designed as a wide semi-circle with the Soldier’s National Monument at its center. Radiating from the monument are sections divided by state; smaller states closest to the monument and larger states along the outside. The Soldier’s National Monument, designed by the Batterson-Canfield Company is a mighty granite shaft rising from a four cornered pedestal and bearing sculptures crafted by Randolph Rogers representing war, history, plenty and peace. Glancing to the top of the shaft is the statue, “Genius of Liberty”, crowning its peak. The monument is notable as being near the location of the dais of the dedication ceremony where Lincoln delivered the Gettysburg Address.  Numerous smaller monuments also dot the cemetery’s landscape, including a memorial to the Union soldiers of New York and a monument to Major General John F. Reynolds.

Soldier’s National Monument
Memorial to the Union soldiers of New York and Monument to Major General John F. Reynolds

As I made my way around the grand monument and then the remainder of the cemetery, I encountered impeccable funerary grounds, maintained by the National Park Service, with a landscape dotted with cannons, concrete pathways and marble headstones.

As I reverently made my way through the premises, I discovered that although the majority of the graves accommodate the remains of Union Soldiers, the government later added sections for veterans from the Spanish-American War, World Wars I and II, the Korean War and the Vietnam War, bringing the total of veterans that are laid to rest here to more than 6,000.

When I first entered the grounds, the rain which had started during my tour of the battlefield had slowed to a hazy mist. The gloaming of the late afternoon, in addition, added to the sobering realization of just what I was surrounded by.

Not only is it a place where a speech of great magnitude was articulated by one of the greatest men in our country’s history, but it is a place where immeasurable bravery and patriotism was laid to rest. It is a place where we were reminded by President Lincoln why our great country was worth fighting for. A hallowed ground…not only for the lives lost, but the lives that continued and still continue on.

In this election year, it is important to remember the vision of our founding fathers, the lives that were given to bring our country to where it is today and to enjoy the freedoms that we have been given.

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Gettysburg National Cemetery

 

First Cemetery of Athens

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Athens is a place where historical landmarks are a dime a dozen.

The Acropolis, Temple of Zeus, Hadrian’s Arch (to name a few)…you can take you pick of so many to fill your time while visiting the ancient city.

Since I’ve been to most of these places, I was on the lookout for something different. Thinking back on my visit to the Keremeikos Ancient Cemetery, I realized that there had to be more modern cemeteries within the city, much like those of Paris (Pere Lachaise), Milan (Monumentale) and Buenos Aires (La Recoleta).

After conducting a bit of research, I discovered that the official cemetery of the City of Athens dates back to 1837. A prestigious burial place sought out by both Greeks and foreigners, it was the first to be built within the city’s limits and located not far from the Panathenaic Stadium.

Setting out in the warm, sunny afternoon, I made the journey quickly and soon found myself at the top end of Anapafseos Street.

Admittedly, the entrance to the cemetery was a bit disappointing as it is scaffolded, presently under construction. One inside, however, I was greeted immediately on my left with one of the cemetery’s three churches, the Church of Saint Theodores (the other two being Saint Lazarus and Saint Charles). Though the church was not open, I enjoyed its blue painted architecture and single slim belltower standing tall in the bright afternoon.

Making my way through the more elaborate tombs located in the forefront of the cemetery, I admired those of Heinrich Schliemann, German businessman and archaeological excavator of the cities of Troy, Mycenae and Tiryns, Ioannis Pesmazoglou, Greek banker, economist and politician and Georgios Averoff, businessman, philanthropist and one of the great national benefactors of Greece. 

Tomb of Heinrich Schliemann
Tomb of Ioannis Pesmazoglou
Tomb of Georgios Averoff

Making the steep walk towards the rear of the cemetery, I was in search of something special…the tomb with the famous sculpture of a dead young girl called I Koimomeni (“The Sleeping Girl”), created by Yannoulis Chalepas. A bit of exploration was in order, as there are others that appeared to be very similar. I soon found the serene sculpture immortalized by sculptor Chalepas and wondered about her fate. It was later that I learned that the sleeping girl, Sophia Afentaki, was born in 1855 and died of tuberculosis at the age of 18 years.

“The Sleeping Girl”

Continuing my exploration, I was saddened by the overgrown condition of many parts of the cemetery and took extra time to pay respects to many of the graves in the area. Many of the graves and tombs were obviously quite expensive and many housed the remains of many members of Greek families and on the opposite end of the spectrum, there were also many grave sites that were quite modest.

Winding my way deeper and deeper into the cemeteries bounds, I discovered unique sculpture, touching mementos, fresh and dying flowers, distinctly crafted lanterns and fading photos. What I didn’t encounter, however, were other visitors. The cemetery was perfectly empty and quiet.

After a while, the peace and quiet became quite disconcerting. Realizing that I was probably a bit vulnerable, alone in a cemetery, even in the daylight, I decided to head back to the front of the graveyard, passing the burial areas reserved for Protestants and Jews.

The Cemetery of Athens was a unique experience, one that most tourists do not search out despite it’s historical and cultural significance. Though I did see a couple of other tourists in the beginning of my visit seeking out some of the famous grave sites, there were not many others that I ran across.

If it is historical or architectural significance that you seek or a desire to search out some of the famous grave sites, take a trip to the First Cemetery of Athens, a peaceful haven that will not disappoint.

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First Cemetery of Athens

  • Address: Logginou 3, Athina 116 36, Greece
  • Hours: 0800-2000, daily
  • Admission: free

Notable Burials within the First Cemetery of Athens:

  • Archbishops Christodoulos, Chrysostomos II, Seraphim and Dorotheus
  • Hero of Greek War of Independence, Odysseas Androutsos
  • Singers, Sotiria Bellou, Stratos Dionysiou, Stelios Kazantzidis, Dimitros Mitropanos, Demis Roussos, Rita Sakellariou, Sofia Vembo, Nikos Xilouris (and composer)
  • Poets, Odysseas Elytis, Nikos Kavvadias, Kostis Palamas, Kostis Palamas, Alexandros Rizos Rangavis, Giorgos Seferis, Angelos Sikelianos, Alexandros Panagoulis (and politician, democracy activist)
  • Actors, Jules Dassin, Dimitris Horn, Manos Katrakis, Vassillis Logothetidis, Orestis Makris, Thanasis Veggos, Jules Dassin ( and director), Dimitris Papamichael (and director)
  • Actresses, Tzeni Karezi, Marika Kotopouli, Ellie Lambeti, Zoe Laskari, Katina Paxinou, Aliki Vougiouklaki
  • Prime Ministers, Georgios Kafantaris, Andreas Papandreou, George Papandreou, Charilaos Trikoupis, Xenophon Zolotas
  • Politicians, Theodoros Kolokotronis, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, Melina Mercouri, Andreas Michalakopoulos, Grigoris Lambrakis, Nikolaos Bourandas (Police and Fire Service General), Yannis Makriyannis (and merchant, military officer author), Nikos Zachariadis (General Secretary of the Communist Party of Greece from 1931 to 1956)
  • Sculptor, Yannoulis Chalepas
  • Philanthropist and businessman, George Averoff
  • Painter, Demetrios Farmakopoulos
  • Archaeologist, Adolf Furtwangler
  • Filmmaker, Humphrey Jennings
  • Statesman, Dimitrios Kallergis
  • Conductor, Pianist and Composer, Dimitri Mitropoulos,
  • University of Athens’ Greatest Benefactor, Antonios Papadakis
  • Military Dictator during the Regime of the Colonels, Georgios Papadopoulos
  • Lawyer, Alexandros Papanastasiou
  • Director, Screenwriter and Lyricist,Alekos Sakellarios
  • Feminist, Kalliroi Parren
  • Amateur Archaeologist who excavated the site of Troy, Heinrich Schliemann
  • Great Benefactor of Greece, Michael Tositsas
  • Composer, Vassilis Tsitsanis
  • Founder of Filiki Eteria, Emmanuil Xanthos
  • Member of Filiki Eteria, Ioannis Varvakis
  • Author, T.H. White
  • Architect, Ernst Ziller

A Monumental Resting Place

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Some people just don’t like the idea of cemeteries, feeling uneasy knowing that they are surrounded by so many long, lost departed souls.  Me?  I love them and have visited a great many in cities around the world.  A place of remembrance, it gives solace to those who visit their loved ones, but it can also tell you so much about the culture and history of a city or country.

My favorite cemetery, second only to La Recoleta in Buenos Aires, is located in Milan.  A couple of years ago, my friend Judy and I ventured out on the new subway line in search of what this place had to offer.  We were blown away!  The extravagance and opulence were more than we ever expected!

Opened in 1866, the largest cemetery in Milan can be described as more of a museum or park.  Filled with contemporary and classical Italian sculptures and tombs, it also features Greek temples, elaborate obelisks and many original works from a vast array of famous artists.  Many notable Italian citizens are interred throughout the property, including conductor and cellist, Arturo Toscanini, actor, Walter Chiari and Nobel prize winner, Salvatore Quasimodo.

Just recently, I found myself in Milan again on a beautiful, warm and sunny day.  Heading out by myself, I decided that Monumentale would be the perfect location to take in the lovely afternoon and capture its beauty with my camera.

Entering through the main Famedio, a Neo Medieval style memorial chapel made of marble and stone, I first stopped to gaze upon the beautiful blue ceiling and the tomb of novelist, Alessandro Manzoni before making my way through each of the hallways.  I particularly loved walking along the outer edges of the open-aired corridors so that I could admire the building’s architecture, the courtyard and the ornate tombs that line the area.

Before making my way into the cemetery’s immaculately groomed grounds, I then walked the full length of the building’s lower level, exiting at the center, where I could examine the map and the locations of the cemetery’s famous occupants.  In this area is also a structure comprised of metal tubes and black and white stones centered with a small clay bowl placed inside the main formation.  Surrounded by memorial plaques, I was informed by a fellow bystander that it is a monument to the 800 Italians who perished in Nazi concentration camps and the bowl was filled with soil from the Mauthausen concentration camp.

Wandering the grounds, through the avenues of trees, should be reserved for an unhurried pace as to absorb entire beauty of the surroundings and that’s just what I did.  It was impossible not to want to stop and inspect each monument, so detailed and individualized were they.  Many of the tombs and funerary monuments are of such an extravagant size, it is almost as through you are walking through a neighborhood of homes.

At the rear of the property is the Jewish section which contains its own entrance, and a central building which was once the original entrance for Monumentale.  There are many monuments of artistic value in this section by famous architects and sculptors.  When walking through this area, be sure not to miss the artistic windows in the central building which represent the twelve tribes of Israel by artist Diego Pennacchio Ardemagni.

Three other sites that absolutely cannot be missed are Mausoleum of Antonio Bernocchi (designed by Giannino Castiglioni), where you can lean inside and gaze at the upward spiral design of the monument, the full-size casting of the Last Supper for the Campari family tomb and the monument to the Besenzanica family, “L’Aratura” designed by Enrico Butti.

Even with the lesser known and less famous gravesites, beautifully detailed sculpture can be found.  My favorites were of people of all walks of life…sailors, soldiers, children…but I especially enjoyed the flying girls and the grave with the scooter as they were so different.

My second time in Monumentale, I enjoyed as much as my first, staying for more than three hours.  Many people always tell first-timers to visit the Duomo and the Last Supper, but honestly, this ranks right up there as an extremely important Milanese tourist destination.

So…when in Milan, skip the fashion shows…spend a day surrounded by art in Milan’s open-aired museum…I mean cemetery!

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Monumentale Cemetery

  • https://www.comune.milano.it/wps/portal/ist/en
  • Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale, 20154 Milano, Italy
  • Hours:  0800-1800, except Mondays, entrance permitted up to 30 minutes before closing.
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Metro, line M5, station Monumentale.  Tram lines 2, 4, 12 and 14.  Bus 37.