A Market For the Senses

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Looking for some unique souvenirs in Cusco?

How about fresh juice?

Produce?

A delicious meal?

San Pedro Market has it all!

As you walk into the sprawling market building, every one of your senses will come alive.  

The smells will entice you to have a bite here, seated next to one of the many locals who dine here.  A true treat for your tongue!

The sights are plenty and colorful!  With so much to buy, you won’t know where to start.  Feel the fabrics.  Try on a hat or scarf.  Squeeze a lemon.  Peruse the pachamama dolls and other mementos.

The sounds…the sound of frying chicken, locals laughing and exchanging pleasantries, thousands of items being transported in and out.  Sometimes it can be a bit overwhelming!

The whole experience is wonderful and one that all tourists should make the short trip for, however, there are some things to remember;  make sure the juices are made with bottled water and if you buy any fruits and vegetables, make sure to wash them before eating.  Its wonderful to support the local people by making purchases, but always haggle for the best price.  Many vendors see dollar signs when the see Gringos approaching.  Be prepared to walk away and try another vendor, even in the next stall.  Most importantly, keep an eye on your belongings as it can get crowded, especially in the mornings.  

The most important thing to remember, however, is to enjoy yourself and take it all in!

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San Pedro Market

  • Address:  Calles Tupac Amaru and Cascaparo, about an eight minute walk from Plaza de Armas
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  From Plaza de Armas, head south along Calle Manta, past Plazoleta Espinar.  As you pass Plaza San Francisco, head under the archway, and walk approximately two minutes.  San Pedro Market will be on your left.

Church Overload

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One more church?  Uphill?  

No thanks.

Not wanting to make the uphill journey to San Cristobal, the final church on our Religious Ticket, a compromise was made to visit Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, located in the Plaza de Armas instead…especially when we found out that admission was free on that day.  

Of course, I had come to expect the No Photos rule by this time, and I was getting a little tired of seeing so many churches.  (Yes, I actually said this!)

But…free is free.

This massive church, commissioned by the Jesuits in 1571 and constructed in 1576, offers one of the best examples of Spanish Baroque architecture in Peru.  Competing effectively with the Cathedral on the northeast side of the plaza, the church has two bell towers and is connected to the Jesuit’s University of San Ignacia de Loyola.  

Though construction was begun in 1576, on the grounds of the palace of the Inca Huayna Capac, the church was badly damaged in the earthquake of 1650.  The present day building was finally completed, 18 years later, in 1668.

Some of the most notable pieces and features of the church include a painting of the Transfiguration of Christ at the high altar by Jesuit Diego de la Puente and a painting depicting the wedding of artín García de Loyola, the nephew of Ignatius Loyola with Beatriz (great-niece of the Inca ruler Tupac Amaru).  In the Sacristy are sculptures by Melchor Huaman Mayta of the saints San Jeronimo and San Francisco.

What I enjoyed the most, however, were the two towers.  Though the ascent was slow, allowing for the descent of other visitors on the narrow stairway, it was worth the steep climb, for the views looking out over the Plaza and the adjacent Cathedral.  You can also access the balcony from the left tower which allows visibility of the church’s interior.

If you have a few minutes, duck in for a quick look at this historical church…the access to the towers is absolutely worth your time!

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Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús

  • Address:  Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
  • Hours:  0900-1130 and 1300-1730, daily
  • Admission:  S/ 15

Time To Make the Climb!

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

At some point during your visit to Cusco, you are bound to make the steep climb up the ancient Incan Road, Hathunrumiyoc (Quechua for great stone street”) and believe me, it is steep!

Passing the Archbishop’s Museum and the 12 angled stone set into the ancient perimeter wall, you will be huffing and puffing when you make it to the Plazoleta San Blas.  

Or maybe that was just me…still unaccustomed to Cusco’s high elevation. 

So why make the trip?  

The area is quite unique and filled with boutiques, restaurants and of course…a church.  A small church.  An ancient church.

The Templo San Blas.

Built in 1544, the primitive chapel was constructed on the site of an old Inca temple dedicated to Illapa, the god of thunder and lightning.  Set in the oldest parish of Cusco, the church, built by Viceroy Francisco Toledo, was originally built with mud bricks, but was reconstructed with stone walls after the earthquake of 1950.  

An earlier earthquake also played a pivotal role in the church’s history.  About a hundred years after its erection, an earthquake shook the city and the old neighborhood of T’oqokachi.  Once the church had been rebuilt and restored, it became an important temple and began to be decorated with extravagant and important artwork.

The collection of paintings exhibited in the church include one displaying the Life and Miracles of San Blas by artist Fabian Perez de Medina and a canvas of the resurrection of Lazarus, by Master Diego Quispe Tito.  It’s greatest attraction, however, is the beautifully intricate pulpit carved of Cusquenian cedar, known worldwide.  One legend has it that it was made by a local man who who miraculously healed from leprosy, another suggests that it was created by famous Quechua woodcarvers, and still, it is also thought to have been created by either Diego Quispe Tito or
Juan Tomas Tuyru Tupac.

 As we entered the simple looking church, our tickets were validated and we entered, not expecting to see much.  What a surprise was in store for us!

As was becoming the norm, no photographs were allowed and someone was actively walking throughout the church watching our actions.  If only I could have captured the beauty that was laid forth before us in greater detail.  Trying to slyly snap a couple of photographs of the amazing altar and the pulpit, I was reprimanded by the guard…though I was successful.  A bit embarrassed, we decided to head up to the bell tower where we were able to take photographs of the plaza beneath us and of the tower and bell.  The views from here were spectacular in the beautiful afternoon.   

Once we descended from the bell tower, the church had gained more visitors, but we were still unable to capture more photos. 

While the church is included in the Religious Ticket, it is worth the price of single admission because of its rich history, amazing interior and views! Take the time…make the climb!  Up the hill and to the belltower!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Templo San Blas

  • Address:  Plazoleta San Blas, Cusco, Peru
  • Hours:  Monday to Saturday, 0800-1800, Sunday, 1000-1800
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US).  Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Once Upon A Palace

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The palace of Inca Roca.

Ever hear of it?

Perhaps if you lived during Incan times.

Today, the Inca Roca palace is known as the Archbishop’s Palace or The Religious Art Museum.

Located a short distance from Plaza de Armas, on the famous Hatunrumiyoc Street, the museum is located on the site which was once the home of the Marquis of San Juan de Buenavista and later the Archbishop of Cusco.  Transformed into a museum in the 1960s, the site attracts thousands of visitors interested in the both the Colonial and Moorish architecture of the building as well as the religious artifacts housed in the museum. Dedicated to 17th and 18th century religious art by important Peruvian and Andean artists, the main draw for many visitors, however, is the historic palace setting.

As we walked up the street, we noticed many people taking pictures near the stone perimeter wall of the museum.  We learned that one particular stone interested them, “The Stone of 12 Angles” an archaeological artifact, considered to be a national heritage object.

After validating our Religious Ticket, we entered the museum first, noticing (again) not only the NO PHOTOS sign, but the cloistered Renaissance courtyard, decorated with a tranquil fountain, stone arches and walls decorated with blue and white tiles.  Many visitors were sitting here enjoying a quiet moment away from the busy streets of Cusco.

Surrounding the courtyard, inside the classical mansion, are a series of corridors filled with colonial furniture, chapels and important works of masters of Andean painting, including Juan Zapata.  There are many valuable religious masterpieces such as a painting of Christ’s crucifixion by Alonso Cano, entitled Granada and paintings by the Cusqueno Marcos Zapata, one Ayacuchana painting and a Quitena painting.

An important relic, a small organ of two processing refined bellows occupies one of the smaller rooms.  This organ was the first ever to come to Peru for the cathedral.

The architecture is exceptional with a door in arabesque style, doorways in the Moorish style, carved cedar ceilings and spectacular stained-glass windows and a beautiful gold-filled chapel.

The one thing that we noticed, however, was the lack of information displayed on what we were seeing.  Much of what we gleaned from our visit was from a bit of research later.

The museum was small, but interesting to see…rather enjoyable having another location to discover something new about Cusco’s history and to occupy some time during our day.   Not sure if I would have sought it out on my own, but worth the time since it was included in our Religious ticket and a plus for those interested in architectural styles.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe. 

Museum of Religious Art

  • Address:  Located on the corner of Hatunrumiyoq Street and Herrajes street.
  • Hours:  0800-1800, daily.
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating three other churches ),    S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).  Also included with the Cusco Tourist Ticket.

Cathedral of Cusco (Basilica Cathedral of the Virgin of Asuncion)

  • Address:  Plaza de Armas
  • Hours:  1000 to 1800, daily.
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 25.00 (about $7.38 US).  Student: S /. 12.50 (about $3.70 US).  Admission also with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Templo San Blas

  • Address:  Plazoleta de San Blas, Cusco
  • Hours:  1000-1800, daily
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US).  Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Church of San Cristobal

  • Address:  Avenue Don Bosco
  • Hours:  1000-1800, daily
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US).  Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

The Cathedral of Cusco

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There is no shortage of churches in Cusco.

In fact, with so many in such close proximity, it is possible to fill your day with a self-guided walking tour, hitting on some of the major temples, beginning with Iglesia de Santo Domingo on Calle Santo Domingo, heading to Plaza de Armas to visit Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus, Iglesia del Triunfo, La Catedral, Iglesia de Jesus Maria, on to Iglesia de Santa Teresa and Iglesia de la Merced, a block away, and then Iglesia de San Francisco, Iglesia de Santa Clara and Iglesia de San Pedro a short stroll from the plaza.

These churches, some dating back to the mid 1500’s, offer spectacular insight on both the Inca and Spanish colonial cultures.

The Cathedral of Cusco (Basilica Cathedral of the Virgin of Asuncion), dominates the Plaza de Armas and I was anxious to visit this massive structure.  Finding that a ticket (the Boleto Religioso) could be purchased that offers admission to not only the cathedral, but to two other churches, Templo San Blas and the Church of San Cristobal and the Museum of Religious Art, I decided that this would be a great way to not only see some of the amazing religious sites of Cusco, but some of the parts of the city in between.

Long before the Cathedral stood on its present location, the Kiswarkancha stood in the main square.  Built by the Incas, the Kiswarkancha was the palace of Viracocha, the ruler of the Kingdom of Cusco.  As the Spanish conquistadors arrived, however, they made the decision to demolish the palace and build a cathedral on the site, in order to wipe out the Inca religion and promote the spread of Christianity.

Lasting for almost a century, construction began in 1559 and was completed by utilizing an involuntary Incan workforce.  Most of the stones used in the construction was taken from Sacsayhuaman, again with the idea of desecrating another of the Inca’s religious sites.  Once the Spaniards learned that the sand located on the building site was also considered holy, they demanded that it be used in the mortar.

Standing before this mighty structure, flanked by its two solid towers and sidled by the Iglesia del Triunfo and Church of Jesus, Mary and Joseph, it’s easy to forget its sordid beginnings.

As we entered and paid our admission, once again, I noticed that photography was not allowed.  No…not even without a flash.

After we began our self-guided tour and began to see the unimaginable beauty presented in this “Mother Church”, I was even more disappointed about the No Photography rule.

The sprawling cathedral has eleven chapels, one vestry, one chapter house, seven altarpieces, one choir, over three hundred paintings, various carvings and sculptures.  Offering characteristics of Gothic, Renaissance, Mannerist and Baroque architecture, from start to finish, the artistic detail offered in every nook and cranny is a feast for the eye.  Baroque, Neoclassical and Renaissance details are displayed on the two altars and magnificent woodworking is displayed on the pulpits and choir stalls.  Of the two altars, the original lambran (alder-tree) is located at the back and the neoclassical embossed silver altar in front, which is currently used.

The sacristy, one of the most decorated parts of the cathedral, displays a large collection of 18th paintings by Marcos Zapata, including his version of the Last Supper which presents the main dish of roast guinea pig, and portraits of Cusco’s bishops, beginning with Vicente de Valverde, the first resident bishop of Cusco who accompanied Francisco Pizarro on his conquests.  A large, dark painting of the crucifixion, is also presented here, thought to be painted by either Dutch artist, Anthony van Dyck or Spanish artist Alonso Cano.  Other important paintings by Basilio Santa Cruz Pumacallo and Basilio Pacheco can also be seen in the cathedral as well as the oldest surviving painting in Cusco, depicting the the ancient city during the 1650 earthquake where the townspeople are seen carrying a crucifix in the Plaza de Armas, praying for the natural disaster to end. Diego Quispe Tito’s Christ’s 12 Parables is particularly noteworthy as this incomplete collection depicts the twelve months and zodiac symbols of the year, incorporating the parables of Jesus into the pictures.

A most intriguing relic is the wooden crucifix, the Black Christ, discolored from centuries of smoke and dust emitted from burning candles.  When the cathedral was restored in the 1990s, the crucifix was not cleaned.  Every year, during the Lord of Miracles Procession during Holy Week, the crucifix is taken outdoors to commemorate the earthquake of 1650.

Another spectacular piece, which can be spied from the outside, in the north tower, is the famous Maria Angola bell.  Weighing  over 13,000 pounds and standing just over seven feet, the bell, cast in 1659 was named, according to local tradition, after an Angolan slave who threw gold into the crucible where the bell was being made.   Now cracked, it is only rung on special occasions and can be heard reportedly from more than 20 miles away.

The cathedral attracts thousands of visitors each year and includes a visit to the adjoining Church of Triumph (Iglesia del Triunfo) which was built in 1538, three years after the conquistadors settled in Cusco.  The statue of St. James, slaying an Inca, sits atop the church as a tribute to the belief that this patron saint of Spain played a major role in the Spanish miraculously driving back the Incas during a siege from 1533 and 1536.

Also attached to the church, and included in the visit to the cathedral, is the Church of Jesus, Mary and Joseph, a great place to see the art work of colonial Peruvian Inca artists.

Walking slowly throughout the premises, we attempted to soak in as much of the amazing craftsmanship as we could while I took an occasional photo on the sly.  Be wary, however, there are cameras located throughout the church and workers who are not easily identifiable will ask you to put away your phone or camera.  Though I was only caught once, I can not say for sure whether or not a guest would be asked to leave for continuing to disobey the rule.

Whether or not churches are of interest to you, make sure to put the Cathedral on your agenda during your visit to Cusco, as well as the other churches and museum included with the combination ticket.  With a museum-like quality, you will surely be fascinated by not only its history, but by the intriguing architecture, craftsmanship and artwork on display here.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Cathedral of Cusco (Basilica Cathedral of the Virgin of Asuncion)

  • Address:  Plaza de Armas
  • Hours:  1000 to 1800, daily.
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 25.00 (about $7.38 US).  Student: S /. 12.50 (about $3.70 US).  Admission also with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Museum of Religious Art

  • Address:  Located on the corner of Hatunrumiyoq Street and Herrajes street.
  • Hours:  0800-1800, daily.
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating three other churches ),    S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).  Also included with the Cusco Tourist Ticket.

Templo San Blas

  • Address:  Plazoleta de San Blas, Cusco
  • Hours:  1000-1800, daily
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US).  Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Church of San Cristobal

  • Address:  Avenue Don Bosco
  • Hours:  1000-1800, daily
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US).  Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

 

The Bones of Cusco

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Ruins, churches and bones.

There are a lot of these in Cusco.

After our return from Machu Picchu, we were determined to discover everything there was in Cusco.  We had explored the ruins, now it was time for the churches and bones.

On the first day of our arrival, we had walked through the Plaza San Francisco.  Intrigued by the church there, I had walked over and tried the door.  It was locked, so I figured we would return on another day.

After perusing maps and information on things to do in the city, I discovered that the church was connected to a monastery and convent and was open to the public for guided tours.  This was something I wanted to see…and see how it compared to the San Francisco Monastery in Lima.

As we walked down the hill from our hotel, we entered the plaza and made our way to the museum’s entrance.  Paying our entrance fee, we waited patiently for the guide to take us through the property.

After a brief introduction, he uttered those words I hate…”pictures are not allowed”.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooo!

Built in 1572 by the order of Viceroy Francisco de Toledo, the monastery was used until 1650, when an earthquake damaged the property.  Restoration put it back into operation until the present, however, where there were once 180 Franciscan monks living on the premises, only three remain.

We were guided through the two-storied property which includes cloisters, a choir, library, refectory, chapels and the church.  Many of the paintings are in need of restoration but one of the highlights is the monumental canvas measuring 12 x 9 which depicts the genealogy of the Franciscan family by Juan Espinoza de los Monteros.  Allegedly, this painting is the largest in Latin America!

Original carvings and religious artwork, chests, manuscripts and books fill the rooms and I was both mesmerized by what I was seeing, but also disappointed that I could not capture most of it, but for the occasional stolen photo when our guide was not looking.

As we stood in the choir loft of the church, carved of cedar by local Franciscan Friar Luis Montes, Isisdro Fernandez Inka and Antonio Paz, we admired what we could see below in the dimly lit space…the Latin cross plan with three naves and topped with a high square tower.  Inquiring of the opening hours so that I might return, we were told that although hours were posted, they are not always reliable.

Continuing on, our guide brought us to the library, filled with massive texts, many of which are extremely valuable.  A vast number of books are also housed elsewhere and the space is lit by natural lighting entering from the large, floor-to-ceiling windows.

Finally, we were led to the catacombs which contain the remains of several unknown locals from ancient periods.  The first cemetery built in the city, the bones are lined on each side of the hallways located beneath the church.  We were led down a stairway in one of the rooms to a cave-like space.  Also filled with bones, they were arranged, though not as beautifully as others I have seen, such as in the Capuchin Crypt in Rome and San Bernardino alle Ossa in Milan.   An altar honoring Saint Francis of Assisi was also present here and shockingly, I was allowed to take pictures.

Eventually, we were deposited back in the cloisters and left to explore the gardens.  Pictures were also allowed, so we snapped a few selfies, to placate my need to capture the moment.

Though many only use Cusco as a stepping stone for their visit to Machu Picchu, there is much to explore in the once historic capital of the Inca Empire.  The monastery is centrally located and requires only a short amount of time…take advantage of it!

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San Francisco de Asís Monastery

  • Address:  Jirón Lampa, Distrito de Lima, Peru, Cusco.  Located in the Plaza San Francisco, near the National School of Sciences.
  • Hours:  Museum, Monday to Friday, 0900-1200 and 1500-1745.  Saturday, 0900-1200.  Closed Sunday and holidays.  Church, Monday to Saturday, 0630 to 2000.  Sunday, 0630-1200 and 1700-2000.
  • Admission:  Museum, General, S / 15.00, National Student, S / 3.00.  Church, free admission

The Others

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“You need a cab?”

We had planned to walk from Cristo Blanco along the highway and visit the ruins of Q’enqo.  With our later start that day, we had decided that if we were able to visit two of the sites included with our ticket, we would have gotten our money’s worth.

But, here was this cab driver…offering to take us to Q’enqo, Puka Pukara and Tambomachay.  We could mark everything off of our list and frankly, believe it or not, I wasn’t tired of seeing ruins yet.

After some negotiation, with our driver insisting that these other sites were not as large as Sacsayhuaman, we settled on twenty minutes at each of the three sites and then a drive back to Plaza de Armas.

Down the road, we headed a short distance, and with the hilly terrain, were glad we didn’t have to walk.  Arriving at Q’enqo, our tickets were punched and we entered the premises.  Though there wasn’t much signage to let us know what we were seeing, we made our way through the site.

What we learned later, from the book the cab driver gave to us to look through, was that the site was the smallest of the four ruins and was built as a house and ceremonial site for an important Inca citizen.  Nestled into a large rock on Socorro Hill, we entered from the rear of the site and found a fully intact ritual altar…a dark reminder of the sacrificial practices of the Incas.

The drive to our next destination wasn’t an extremely long one and we were soon arriving at the former military fortress of Puka Pukara.  Located high above Cusco, the small site offers panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and was probably built there to give the military a great view over important parts of the empire.  The site consists of large walls, terraces and staircases and is well marked, guiding you throughout.

Just across the highway was the ruins of Tambomachay.  A short walk from the road, we anxiously quickened our pace, worried that we would not be able to see everything marked on the map given to us at the entry during our allotted twenty minutes.

An alternate name for Tambomachay is El Baño del Inca (The Bath of the Inca) and it was apparent with the still functioning aqueducts located at the rear of the site.  Overhearing a tour guide informing his group that Tambomachay was thought to have been built to worship the god of water, we could definitely see that here in the peaceful, ancient retreat.  Later, as we rifled through our cabbie’s book, we found that Tambomachay’s function was not certain…it may have served as a military outpost, a spa resort of the Incan political elite or maybe both.

We loved climbing to the top of the rocks to look down on the water features, however, we were a bit perplexed by our map.  It appeared that there were other parts of the site, located nearby.  Try as we might, however, we were unable to find them during our quick visit.

Keeping a close eye on the time, it seemed much too soon as we made our way back to the parking area to meet our ride back into town.

Though I could see that some may feel “ruin overload”, especially if they’ve already been to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, I still think that these four “other” sites are important to Cusco’s history and should not be missed.  I would offer up one suggestion, however….negotiate for thirty to fifty minutes at Tambomachay.  For such a lengthy walk, twenty minutes wasn’t nearly enough.

That being said…take a trip out to the outer limits of Cusco…it is important to see what the city itself, has to offer!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Partial Tour Tickets-Sacsayhuaman, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay

  • http://www.cosituc.gob.pe
  • Ticket Office Address:  Av El Sol 103, Tourist Galleries, Of. 101, Cusco, Peru
  • Hours:  Monday to Saturday, 0800-1800, Sundays and holidays, 0800-1300
  • Ticket prices:  Circuit I, Sacsayhuaman, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay, S/. 70, General, (about $21 US), S/. 40, Students, (about $12 US).  Circuit II, Regional Historical Museum, Museum of Contemporary Art, Folk Art Museum, Koricancha Site Museum, Native Art Center Qosqo, Monument to the Inca Pachacutec, S/. 70, General, (about $21 US), S/. 40, Students, (about $12 US).  Circuit III, Sacred Valley of the Incas sites, Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero, Moray, S/. 70, General, (about $21 US), S/. 40, Students, (about $12 US).  Cusco Touristic Ticket, allows admission to 16 sites in Cusco, the nearby Sacred Valley and the South Valley, Cusco Tourist Ticket Integral – BTCL, S/. 130 (about $39 US).  Cusco Tourist Ticket Integral for students-BEE, S/. 70 (about $21 US).
  • Getting There:  On foot, you can walk to Sacsayhuaman (and the adjacent Christ Statue) from Cusco, about 30-40 minutes, uphill.  Walk from Plaza de Armas to the first ruin, Sacsayhuamán, by taking the road that runs along the right side of the Cathedral, and then turning left on Choqechaka road. Walk along the road and then take a right on the Atoc’sekuchi staircase. Climb the staircase until you reach a main road, where you will turn left. Walk along the road for a few minutes, and you’ll see the Cristo Rey statue. Turn left on the gravel road just past it and continue along it through a field to the entrance to Sacsayhuamán.  By cab (recommended),  S/. 10 (about $3 US).  You also can negotiate with a driver who can wait and drive you to each of the other sites.  After walking to the Christ Statue, I negotiated a rate of S/. 50 soles for the driver to take us to Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay and back to Plaza de Armas.  We negotiated that the driver wait at each site for 20 minutes.  However, with cabs being plentiful, you can use separate taxis as all of the ruins are situated along the main highway to Pisac.  Taxi from Sacsayhuamán to Q’enqo, about S/. 5 (about $1.50 US).  Taxi from Q’enqu to Puka Pukara, about S/. 8 (about $2.25 US).  You can walk from Puka Pukara to Tambomachay.  In addition to taxi to return to town, you can also flag down the next bus passing Tambomachay for S/. 1 (about $.30 US).

 

 

Cristo Blanco

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Standing tall on mountainside, we could see him from Plaza de Armas.

Cristo Blanco, the Statue of the White Christ.

Though not as large as Christ the Redeemer in Rio, this statue was a gift from Palestinian Christians in 1945, as a token of gratitude for the refuge they received in the city after World War II.  Keeping watch over the city with open arms, the sculpture beckons tourists to take a closer look and to gaze out over the sprawling city of Cusco.

Designed by local artist Francisco Olazo Allende, who also designed the Santa Clara archway leading into Cusco’s San Francisco Square, the parts of the statue were manufactured in the San Blas district and then transferred and erected on the spiritual location of Pukamoqo Hill, which supposedly holds soil from all of the four quarters of the Inca Empire.

After our visit to Sacsayhuamán, we took a short walk from the rear of the site uphill to the statue.  Towering above us about 25 feet, the statue starkly contrasted against the clear, blue sky.  Though the fencing surrounding it kept us from getting too close, we were able to get some decent photographs and our visit lasted a short ten minutes.  Since not much time is required at the site, you can incorporate your visit with stops at Sacsayhuamán, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara and Tambomacay, all located on the same highway.

And Cristo Blanco never sleeps.  Make sure to cast your eyes upward at night when he is brightly lit!  A constant reminder of the hospitality and friendliness of the Cusqueñan people.

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Cristo Blanco

  • Hours:  Open daily, 24 hours
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  By taxi, about S/. 15 (about $5.50 US), with journey taking about 15 minutes.  By foot, from Plaza de Armas, the journey takes about 30-40 minutes, uphill.

 

 

Sexy Woman

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Although most people aspire to visit Machu Picchu when heading down to Cusco, many do not realize that there are other archaeological sites near Cusco that are equally as important.

Q’enqo.

Puka Pukara.

Tambomachay.

Sexy Woman.

Wait, what?

Ok…Sacsayhuamán.

Comprised of the words Saqsay, meaning satiated or filled and waman, meaning hawk, Sacsayhuaman is a mouthful, but much easier to pronounce if you say it like “Sexy Woman”!

After our exhausting trip to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, we decided to sleep in the next morning and spend the day seeing some sights in Cusco.  But, after the early wake-up calls the last few mornings, sleeping in meant, 9:00 a.m.  Our bodies, so used to rising early, wanted no part of a late morning.

Deciding to check out the archaeological ruins in Cusco, we were not really sure if we could purchase the ticket which incorporated the four sites at Sacsayhuamán’s ticket office, so we headed into town to the Tourist Gallery, to purchase the tickets before grabbing a cab to the citadel.

A friend had recommended securing a guide at Sacsayhuamán and we did just that once we arrived.   Edmundo was extremely friendly and most informative, guiding us through the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Building of the citadel began around 1100 after the Killke culture had occupied the area for 200 years.  Expanded by the Inca from the 13th century, huge, dry stone walls were constructed with boulders cut so precisely that they were fitted together with no mortar.

With its location so high above Cusco, the fortress was well protected and was extremely important to the area’s militia.

As we walked through the large plaza area, Edmundo explained that it was capable of holding thousands of people and was designed for ceremonial activities.  The massive terrace walls were the main attraction here, however.  The stones used in the wall’s constructions are among the largest used in any building in pre-Hispanic American and so precisely cut and fitted that not even a piece of paper can be inserted between them.  The longest wall is approximately 400 meters long and 6 meters tall and appears to be a sort of three dimensional jigsaw puzzle with its largest stone weighing more than 360 tons and 29 feet high.  Edmundo pointed out many stones that were cut and placed, forming shapes…a puma’s paw, a llama, a snake, a guinea pig and a bird…shapes we would never have seen had we not had a guide.

As we were guided through the Terrace Gateway, we walked up the stairways to the upper terraces.  The views of Cusco from this area were spectacular and we admired the city below noting major landmarks, Plaza de Armas, La Catedral, Iglesia de La Compaña de Jesús.  It was explained to us that Cusco was laid out in the shape of a puma and Sacsayhuamán makes up the head with its jagged walls representing its teeth.

As we stood high over the city, the sky darkened and lightening began to flash.  So exposed to the elements, we were a bit nervous, however, as accustomed to the ever-changing weather, Edmundo continued his monologue, guiding us through the site, informing us that Sacsayhuamán once had three towers and a labyrinth of rooms large enough to accommodate 5,000 Inca soldiers.

Making our way back down to the parade ground, where the Inti Raymi winter solstice festival is held every June and attended by tens of thousand of spectators, we crossed the massive area over to the Rodadero which was believed to be the religious and ceremonial section. Most of the structures once at the Rodadero were torn down by the Spaniards and later inhabitants of Cusco.  We were led down below ground through a passage, ducking our heads to make our way through and emerging above ground in another area.  Fun as that was, the best part was coming across the high, smooth rocks that descended in a wavy pattern.  Edmundo led me carefully uphill and had me sit.  Scooting forward, I began to slide down, faster and faster until I reached the bottom!  Yes, the Incas surely must have had fun on this!

 

Finally, our tour came to an end and Edmundo directed us out of the back of the property to the road leading to Q’enqo and the path to The Christ Statue, our next two stops.  Pointing out some restaurants that we could grab a bit to eat, he bid us goodbye.

Though Machu Picchu’s and Pisac’s breathtaking locales lend to their attraction, we really enjoyed visiting Sacsayhuamán, for the preciseness and original Inca architecture.  We learned a great deal from Edmundo and I recommend a guide so as not to miss some of the most impressive features of this amazing site.  Remember…much of Machu Picchu has been rebuilt, but the massive original stones of Sacsayhuamán, have withstood the test of time.

Stones, stones and more stones, but we may have seen a sexy woman or two…

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Partial Tour Tickets-Sacsayhuaman, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay

  • http://www.cosituc.gob.pe
  • Ticket Office Address:  Av El Sol 103, Tourist Galleries, Of. 101, Cusco, Peru
  • Hours:  Monday to Saturday, 0800-1800, Sundays and holidays, 0800-1300
  • Ticket prices:  Circuit I, Sacsayhuaman, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay, S/. 70, General, (about $21 US), S/. 40, Students, (about $12 US).  Circuit II, Regional Historical Museum, Museum of Contemporary Art, Folk Art Museum, Koricancha Site Museum, Native Art Center Qosqo, Monument to the Inca Pachacutec, S/. 70, General, (about $21 US), S/. 40, Students, (about $12 US).  Circuit III, Sacred Valley of the Incas sites, Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero, Moray, S/. 70, General, (about $21 US), S/. 40, Students, (about $12 US).  Cusco Touristic Ticket, allows admission to 16 sites in Cusco, the nearby Sacred Valley and the South Valley, Cusco Tourist Ticket Integral – BTCL, S/. 130 (about $39 US).  Cusco Tourist Ticket Integral for students-BEE, S/. 70 (about $21 US).
  • Getting There:  On foot, you can walk to Sacsayhuaman (and the adjacent Christ Statue) from Cusco, about 30-40 minutes, uphill.  Walk from Plaza de Armas to the first ruin, Sacsayhuamán, by taking the road that runs along the right side of the Cathedral, and then turning left on Choqechaka road. Walk along the road and then take a right on the Atoc’sekuchi staircase. Climb the staircase until you reach a main road, where you will turn left. Walk along the road for a few minutes, and you’ll see the Cristo Rey statue. Turn left on the gravel road just past it and continue along it through a field to the entrance to Sacsayhuamán.  By cab (recommended),  S/. 10 (about $3 US).  You also can negotiate with a driver who can wait and drive you to each of the other sites.  After walking to the Christ Statue, I negotiated a rate of S/. 50 soles for the driver to take us to Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay and back to Plaza de Armas.  We negotiated that the driver wait at each site for 20 minutes.  However, with cabs being plentiful, you can use separate taxis as all of the ruins are situated along the main highway to Pisac.  Taxi from Sacsayhuamán to Q’enqo, about S/. 5 (about $1.50 US).  Taxi from Q’enqu to Puka Pukara, about S/. 8 (about $2.25 US).  You can walk from Puka Pukara to Tambomachay.  In addition to taxi to return to town, you can also flag down the next bus passing Tambomachay for S/. 1 (about $.30 US).

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

Training Days

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are three ways to get to Machu Picchu.

Hiking the Inca Trail.

By private van or bus to the town of Hydroelectrico and hike three hours.

By train.

Perusing the different options, we immediately knew that on our vacation, we didn’t want to do any major hiking, not knowing how we would react to the altitude.  So, train it was!

Having opted to catch the train from the nearby Poroy Station, we set out early in the morning by taxi.  As we neared the station, our cab driver attempted to communicate with us and with his limited Spanish, we were concerned that he was lost.  Finally, as we pulled into the station parking lot, we learned that he wanted to know our return time the next night so he could pick us up.  As I negotiated the price, I felt some relief knowing that upon our arrival, we would not have to hope for transportation back to our hotel.

With plenty of time to spare, we bought waters and made ourselves as comfortable as possible, watching the boarding process for the Explorer train, leaving a bit earlier than ours.  We had packed light, discovering that Peru Rail, prefers smaller bags and left the our larger bags checked at our hotel, which we would return to the next night, yet it was interesting to see others with larger suitcases.  Maybe they were staying in Aguas Calientes for a longer period of time.  Maybe they don’t know how to pack light.  Still, it was freeing to be traveling with only a backpack.   Eventually, our departure time neared and we took our place in line, eager to see what the Vistadome train offered.

Having assigned seating provided no stress about finding seats together and we were excited to see the seats across the table unoccupied.  As the train pulled out from the station, we were tired from our long day in the Sacred Valley, our short night and were eager to get more sleep.  We soon found our curiosity about the surrounding countryside superseded the need to doze.

The train was extremely comfortable with large, leather seats, lots of leg room and huge windows, offering spectacular views of the passing scenery.  Not long after our departure, the crew came into the aisle, giving me momentary pause, reminding me of my own job.  Snacks and beverages were offered and were quite delicious.

After everything was cleared away, I marveled at the towns we glided by and the people going about their daily routines…traditionally dressed women, children walking to school, villagers working in the fields and hikers and sherpas and hikers setting out on the Inca trail.

Soon, we neared Ollantaytambo and the train slowed, pulling into the station.  Though we had been able to enjoy our table alone for the first part of the journey, we were soon joined by a couple from Spain.  Though pleasantries were exchanged at their arrival, it was evident that their English was not good enough to maintain a conversation, so I occupied myself with trying to capture what I was seeing on my camera.

Almost four hours from the start of our journey in Poroy, we felt the train slowing once again as we pulled into the station at Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchy Station.  So excited to begin our exploration of a new part of Peru, we grabbed our bags and headed out, eager to see what this small town had to offer.

Flash forward…after exploring Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, we returned to the Machu Picchu station for our return to Cusco.

The train station was quite busy and a little confusing.  My husband and I were not sure if we were in the correct boarding spot and had to verify with station personnel.

Finally, we boarded and made ourselves comfortable in our seats at the middle of the train.  The other couple sharing our table was from England, most interesting to chat with and we were able to compare stories of our time at Machu Picchu.

As with our trip to Aguas Calientes, complimentary sandwiches and beverages were offered and later, alcoholic beverages and snacks were available for purchase.

Once the trolleys were put away, we were informed that we would be treated to a fashion show.  Our attendants came through the aisles, one at a time, wearing alpaca sweaters, shawls, capes and scarves.  They demonstrated the flexibility of each piece, which were also available for sale.

Deciphering an announcement made over the P.A., I understood something about a demon.  A little confused, I looked at my husband, and told him that I must have misunderstood what I was hearing.  Music began to play and a brightly garbed character wearing a demonic mask with long, blonde hair came running from the galley, dancing and leaping through the aisle.

What we learned from this amusing spectacle is that it is called, The Diablada or Danza de los Diablos (Dance of the Demons), an original dance from Peru and Bolivia which is characterized by the mask and devil suit worn by the performer.  It is a religious, theatrical dance honoring spirits and used as a symbol for the country’s indigenous cultural identity.

Since it had grown darker outside and we were unable to see the beautiful scenery, it was a welcome distraction.  We clapped and laughed at the demon’s antics and enjoyed his dances with various patrons.

Finally, the train slowed and we were arriving in Cusco.

Our driver was waiting with our name on a sign and as exhausted as we were from our extended day, we were glad that we had arranged to have him there to greet us.

Many people want the entire experience of hiking to Machu Picchu, although this is not for everyone, especially those with mobility issues.  Though I think it would have been a unique adventure, I am not sure I would have enjoyed the hiking portion, probably arriving at Machu Picchu much too exhausted to actually enjoy it.

Anyone who wants to visit Machu Picchu should consider the one of the train lines for at least half of the trip, very efficient and comfortable, it was absolutely worth the price of a ticket!

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Peru Rail

Inca Rail