monastery – Snapping The Globe

The Grand Finale, Day Eight in Croatia

All packed up and ready to go. Well almost.

This was our final day in Croatia. It needed to count.

Since my husband had been a good sport and seen many churches and monasteries with me over the past week, I decided to give him a break. He wanted to walk around and look at his own leisure. Me? I wanted to go to the Franciscan Monastery and the Cathedral of Dubrovnik, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

The Franciscan Monastery has an interesting history in that it contains one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. The complex, built around 1317, was initially located outside of the city gates. Moved due to the threat of war, it now stands just inside the Pile Gate and can be visited regularly which is where I headed first.

*Entrance to the Franciscan Monastery Museum*

Located beside the Holy Savior Church and built by the Franciscans who arrived in Dubrovnik around 1234, it contains two cloisters; one built in the Renaissance style with grand arches and the other in the Romanesque and Gothic styles boasting 120 columns. The Renaissance cloisters were much like many others I had seen before, however, it was the upper cloisters that I longed to see with its carved columns depicting animals and humans, which were not open to the public.

Once one of the wealthiest churches in the city, it was largely destroyed by the earthquake of 1667. Today, only part of its treasury is on display, however, it is the pharmacy, dating back to 1317 that people come for. Since the Franciscans are known for their devotion to the sick, the pharmacy aided their mission but also served the public, giving the friars a steady income. On display, you can see many of the old manuscripts that the friars used in the creation of their pharmaceuticals as well as the tools of their trade. You can also stop into the actual pharmacy to make any medical purchases you may need.

*Franciscan Monastery Treasury and Museum*

After my tour was complete, I headed to the Dubrovnik Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, making my way through the endless passageways and streets that make up the city. I had passed by this cathedral numerous times, but had not had the time to enter and discover what made it so special and the seat of the Diocese of Dubrovnik.

*Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary*

Built on the site of several formal cathedrals dating back to the 7th, 10th, 11th and 12th centuries, this Baroque church was completed in 1713 after the previous had also been destroyed in the earthquake of 1667.

While it is the large dome that dominates the interior, it appears to be more modern than its 1700s origins. The main altar is decorated with carved panels which portray the Assumption of the Virgin and its treasury contains 182 relics from different regents; relics from the head, arm, and leg of Dubrovnik patron saint St Blasius, sacral dishes from the 13th to 18th centuries, and a large number of precious paintings. These relics are displayed in a small chapel from which you can gain access by paying a small entrance fee. Photographs are prohibited, but since I was the only visitor there at the time, I was able to capture a few, the most captivating displaying the gilded ceiling centered with a cherubic composition.

*Chapel of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary*

An interesting note about the cathedral is that it is said that while Richard the Lionheart was shipwrecked in Dubrovnik in 1192, he contributed a great sum towards the building of the cathedral, hoping to gain favor in the eyes of the Lord for his survival.

After my explorations were complete and my husband and I had a quick lunch, we stopped by our apartment to don more appropriate boat gear and lather up for an afternoon in the Croatian sun! Heading down to the port, we waited for Ivusa who picked us up promptly at our designated time.

Dodging the intermittent boat traffic in the harbor, we were soon on our way, passing the walls of the city, which we had stood upon a week ago, looking out on this very same water that we were now cruising through. It was a beautiful day with only a few clouds in the sky, although not extremely hot as it was now the beginning of October.

The Elafiti Islands’ scenery was absolutely gorgeous and we sipped upon ice cold beers that Ivusa procured from a chest he had brought for the occasion. Pulling into a small cave, he displayed his expert boatmanship, maneuvering easily in the small space so we could see its interior. A little further up the rocky coast, he cut off the engine and showed us a small opening just above the water. Other boats had pulled up in this area and a few people were swimming toward the opening. This was the Blue Cave that I had seen in my friend’s pictures and we were invited to jump on in and have a look!

Now, while my son and I were in Capri, we took a boat into the Blue Grotto…it was much hotter there at the time, but I didn’t have to swim in cold water…into a small space. As an advanced scuba diver, you would think that I wouldn’t have been as nervous as I was, but as I eyed my husband in the water, waiting on me, I decided that you can’t pass up an opportunity and jumped right in. When I tell you that the water was cold…well, I can’t even describe how it took my breath away. For good measure, I took a small float with me and swam for dear life toward the opening!

As we ducked under the water and into the small cave, I suddenly forgot that my feet were numb and marveled at the color of the water as we faced the opening. Simply amazing!

Successfully making it back to the boat, we were on our way again in the island chain, pulling into the harbor of Sudurad. I had told Ivusa that I loved visiting churches and he said that this small island contained approximately thirty churches which were built in the middle ages. Many were in a ruined state, but as we pulled adjacent to the dock, he pointed out a tower Pakljena from 1529 and the Church of the Holy Spirit which contains a flat roof, the largest of its kind in the Adriatic.

My husband and I set out on foot to do some quick explorations, passing small restaurants and facilities offering olive oil and wine tastings, as the island cultivates a great quantity of olives, grapes as well as figs.

Our visit was short and we headed back to the boat to continue our tour, soon pulling up to the dock in Lopud. A much larger island than Sudurad, we decided to head (yes, at my suggestion) towards the church tower, which, coincidentally we discovered was a Franciscan Monastery built in 1493! The church and grounds were open for inspection and we took our time enjoying the view from the hilltop.

Afterward, we made our way back along the western waterfront, browsing the shops, admiring the sandy beach and popping in to see a small chapel, Crkva Bezgresno zacece BDMarije, which I presume belongs to the Catholic Church, though I couldn’t find more information after visit. We enjoyed more of the scenery and a beer and then headed back to the boat and a waiting Ivusa.

The day was growing late and the sun getting lower in the sky. Heading back toward Dubrovnik in the waning light, Ivusa ensured that we had the best sunset views. As we approached Dubrovnik, it was dark and the hilltop lights sparkled on the water. Quite the magical ending to a magical day…and of course, a magical week!

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Franciscan Monastery

https://www.dubrovnik-travel.net/franciscan-monastery/
Address: Poljana Paska Milicevica 4, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: 40KN (about $5.65 US)

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Dubrovnik Cathedral)

https://thecatholictravelguide.com/destinations/croatia/dubrovnik/
Address: Ul. kneza Damjana Jude 1, 20000
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Franciscan Monastery of Lopud

Address: Lopud, Croatia
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Back to Dubrovnik, Day Seven in Croatia

All good things must come to an end, but better things may be in store.

Our time exploring other parts of Croatia was complete, but we were leaving beautiful little Hvar Town, heading back to the beautiful city of Dubrovnik and now we knew what to expect. There were many things we wanted to do and see, including our new friend, Ivusa.

The ferry ride was a bit longer this time, but included a stop to pick up and deposit other passengers in Korčula. Since I was able to grab a spot on the back deck as we made our way to the dock, I had prime viewing of the beautiful old city. Why didn’t we spend a few days here? Definitely next time!

Four hours later, after our departure from Hvar, we were disembarking in Dubrovnik and catching a taxi to the Old Town. Our Airbnb, this time, was within the Old Town city walls…in fact, it was adjacent to Stradun, the city’s main pedestrian street, so a bit more convenient in that we didn’t have to climb twenty-two billion stairs!

After depositing our luggage in our room, we were off!

The Dominican Monastery, just around the corner, was first on our list. Dating back to the 14th century, the monastery is one of the most important architectural landmarks in the city and contains a great number of paintings, artifacts, jewelry and other items from Dubrovnik’s history. Its bell towers are prominent when walking the walls of the city, however, these not quite being as old as the monastery itself. Begun in the 16th century, they were only completed in the 18th.

Within the monastery, is the Gothic church of Saint Dominic, usually richly decorated and filled with treasures including the large golden crucifix above the main altar from the 14th century. Under construction at the time, we had to use our imaginations in order to “see” what it usually presents. The monastery museum was also quite intriguing with its vast jewelry collection and paintings from the Dubrovnik art school from the 15th and 16th centuries.

*Treasures from the Dominican Monastery Museum*

Making our way through the abbey, we noted the Capital Hall, where the monastic community held its meetings, and the porches of the cloister which were added in the 15th century. Within the cloister is a rich green oasis complete with a stone well crown and I would imagine this was a favorite place for the residents to relax and enjoy nature’s beauty.

After our visit was complete, we walked a short distance, past the clock tower, to the Church of St. Blaise. The steps of this church is both a meeting place, due to its central location near the clock tower, and a resting place, perfect for people watching. We also noticed that many from the community congregate here, including the children, who play games on the steps and in Luza Square in front of the church.

The interior of this church did not disappoint my “church fascination” with its beautifully decorated golden altar, taking my breath away when I entered. Named after the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the church was built in 1715, by Venetian architect and sculptor Marino Gropelli on the foundations of a past Romanesque medieval church. This saint is featured on the main altar in gilt silver, crafted in the 15th century by an unknown master. In the saint’s left hand is a scale model of the Romanesque church which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1667 and he is flanked by two kneeling angels. This statue was the only one which survived the fire of 1706.

In front of the church is another of Dubrovnik’s landmarks, Orlando’s column. Unfortunately, this was under renovation and closed off by metal fencing. This tall and slender stone flag column is decorated with a depiction of a medieval knight, Orlando, who according to legend, helped the people of old Dubrovnik defeat invaders in the middle ages. A monument to freedom, it details the help aquired to remain a free trade city-state and acts as a flag holder which displays the Libertas (freedom) flag as well as the St. Blaise festival flag. An interesting note about the statue; the knight’s forearm is 51.25 centimeters long, the standard Dubrovnik measurement for fabric, where local merchants were measuring, cutting and selling fabric.

*Orlando’s Column courtesy of justdubrovnik.com*

A little further down the Stradun, we headed into the Franciscan Church. Much as I wanted to visit the Monastery and Museum, I decided to wait until the next morning as I thought that seeing another monastery was probably not what my husband had in mind. The church was a good compromise as the afternoon was nearing its end and he was anxious to start happy hour and revisit Lady Pipi restaurant which was near this location.

A large complex, consisting of the church, monastery, library, and pharmacy, belonging to the Order of the Friars Minor, was built in 1317, but with its construction taking centuries to complete. The original church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1667 and much of the complex was rebuilt several times with the only remaining element being the decorated portal which overlooks the main street.

The Baroque interior was stunning as we entered through the main doors with its diagonally patterned tile floor and and large, gilded chandelier. The main altar contained a statue of Christ between four twisted marble columns and the five side altars were sculpted by Venetian Giuseppe Sardi between 1684 and 1696. An important side note, we learned, is that poet Ivan Gundulić is buried in the church.

Continuing our explorations, we decided to see more of what lay beyond the gates. A short walk past the Pile Gate, through which we had entered earlier on our return, brought us past the Amerling Fountain, the overlook for the Beach Sulic, which we would later realize was the place Cersei Lannister on Game of Thrones would stand, the Imperial Hilton Hotel and almost to the Church of St. Elizabeth, a small chapel. Heading back to the Old Town, we wandered through its streets and alleyways appreciating the architecture and its beauty.

At this point, my husband was truly at the end of his touring mode…but I spotted the Church of the Holy Annunciation. Promising only a quick peek, I ducked in and inspected the Serbian Orthodox church which was constructed in 1887. Though I was only inside for a few moments, I learned later that this impressive church has a huge collection of icons dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries within its museum and an impressive library containing over 12,000 volumes, including a gospel in Russian printed in Moscow in 1805.

Finally, it was time for the long walk up the stairs for our grilled seafood platter “A La Pipi”!

“It’s about time!” said my husband. Long days definitely lead to good things!

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Krilo Ferry

https://www.krilo.hr › en

Martecchini Airbnb Apartment

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/50272540?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=c510d4a5-f5a8-4855-9be3-9af683ff60c8
Address: Kovačka ulica 2, Dubrovnik, Dubrovačko-neretvanska županija 20000, Croatia

Dominican Monastery

https://www.dubrovnikcity.com/dubrovnik/attractions/dominican_monastery.htm
Address: Ul. Svetog Dominika 4, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, 30KN, Children, 20KN

Franciscan Church

Address: 4 Poljana Paska Milicevica, Dubrovnik, HR 20000
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free

Church of the Holy Annunciation

Address: Od Pucha 8, Dubrovnik 20000 Croatia
Hours: 0900-1600, daily
Admission: free

Happy Hours

The city of Prague has some of the most unique and beautiful architecture in the world.

Standing atop Petrin Hill and looking over the city, it is sometimes hard to explain how everywhere you cast your glance, there is a picture. I’ve been to many cities in Europe and yet, this is the one that always takes my breath away.

Behind Petrin Hill you can observe the elegant spires of a basilica, of the Basilica of Our Lady. Though I love churches (and this one was not open while I was visiting), it was not what I was here to see.

Prague’s Strahov Monastery, is one of the oldest Premonstratensian monasteries, (founded in 1140), still in existence in the world and it was just around the corner from my hotel. Heading there for its re-opening after lunch, I paid my admission for both the Library and the Gallery as well as for permission to take photos. Many of Prague’s historical buildings charge to take photos, without flash (of course), and in order to not get a stern warning and risk being asked to leave, I’ve learned that it is best to pay for permission if you want to capture the beauty of these building’s interiors.

The Library is beyond description. The two halls, the Theological Hall and the Philosophical Hall are filled with over 200,000 volumes and is one of the most valuable and best preserved historical collections in the world. Though you cannot actually enter each of the rooms, you are allowed to observe from the doorways, a bit difficult when its crowded or when someone does not understand that they’ve taken enough photos and they need to make way for others. The Theological Hall, designed by Abbot Jeroným Hirnhaim, is the older of the two and was established between 1671 and 1674, while the Philosophical Hall dates from 1794. Both halls are two-stories high with ceiling frescoes painted by Siard Nosecký and Anton Maulbertsch.

The Philosophical Hall was built under the direction of Abbot Václav Mayer and contains more than 42,000 volumes covering topics such as philosophy, astronomy, mathematics, history and philology, while the Theological Hall’s 18,000+ volumes contain numerous editions of the Bible, many in different languages. In the foyer area, you can inspect some of these bibles, displayed in protective cases.

The foyer also contains a large collection of curiosities from the estate of Karel Jan Erban, dating back to 1798. In large display cabinets, you can observe sea fauna, collections of insects, minerals, wax replicas of fruit, archaeological collections, ceramics, handcuff and Hussite peasant weapons. The most interesting artifact, however, is the remains of the now extinct Dodo bird.

Though there are many notable buildings within the complex including the Basilica, the Abbey Building, the Convent, the Great Monastery Restaurant and the Strahov Monastery Brewery, the only other part that was open to the public (and did not involve beer) was the Strahov Gallery.

Heading over to the Strahov Gallery, I was pleased to find that it was more than just a picture gallery. While the gallery contains a large collection (more than 1500 pieces) of Gothic, Baroque, Rococo painting and Rudolfian art, there were other halls and exhibits throughout the structure.

One of the first exhibits, located in the Romanesque Hall (the monastery’s former food storerooms) detail the origins of the Strahov monastery, including a to-scale model of the monastery, photographs and a cycle of paintings of the scenes of St. Norbert, the founder of the Premonstratensian Order. There are also artifacts used during the celebrations on the occasion of the transfer of his relics to Prague.

The Summer Refectory (dining hall) dates back to 1691 and was designed by the Burgundian architect Jean Batista Mathey. Here, my attention was drawn upward to the ceiling which is covered with an amazing fresco entitled “Heavenly Banquet of the Just with Christ as the Host” by Siard Nosecký. As my attention was then cast down, I was able to admire the series of portraits with ten important figures from the monastery.

The nearby Chapter Hall also displayed a beautifully, frescoed ceiling, precious paintings and works of art including an ornate gilded altar. This important room was restored in 1990 to its original appearance and is where new members join the order.

Finally, as the gallery neared its closing hour, I headed to the exposition displaying liturgical works of arts, many of Czech descent, but others from different areas of Europe and the actual picture gallery.

Walking to the exit along the hallways, there were many exquisite statues and wide windows offering a peek at the buildings serene courtyard.

A visit to the monastery is on the shortlist of things to do while in Prague, but if I could make a recommendation, it would be to visit during the afternoon hours. Once finished, you can enjoy some of the monastery’s tasty brews and have a bite to eat while looking out on one of Europe’s most picturesque cities!

An afternoon of history, culture, views, food and, of course, DRINK, this is what I call my Happy Hours!

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Strahov Monastery

https://www.strahovskyklaster.cz/en/
Address: Strahovské nádvoří 1/132, 118 00 Praha 1
Hours: 0900-1200, 1300-1700, daily
Admission: Strahov Library, Adults, CZK 150 (about $6.60 US), Reduced, 80 CZK (about $3.52 US), Family (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years), 300 CZK (about $13,20 US) , Photo Permission, 50 CZK (about $2.20 US) . Strahov Gallery (open only until 1600), Adults, 280 CZK (about $12.30 US) , Reduced, 140 CZK (about $6.16 US) , Family (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years), 500 CZK (about $22.00 US) . Photo Permission, 80 CZK (about $3.52 US) . Children under 6 years, Holders of cards for handicapped persons, members of religious orders and congregations, teachers accompanying students, free. Children over 6 years and students up to 27 years, reduced admission.
Getting There: By Metro Malostranska (line A). Then tram 22 or 23 to Pohorelec. Scenic route, take the funicular, go to tram stop Ujezd (trams 9,12,15,20,22,23). Take the funicular railway to the top of Petrin Hill and walk 10 minutes along Strahovska street. By car, parking is free of charge at the Brusnice stop on Kepler Street.

Treats and Treasures

With so many things to do and see in Quito’s historic city center, it was hard to choose, much less squeeze as much as we could into one day!

Trying to maintain a balance of churches, convents and monasteries was the challenge as there are so many to visit.

The Monasterio Museo del Carmen Alto was one of the monasteries that I was interested in for its rich history. Built in 1653, it is still home to twenty Carmelite nuns and houses an fascinating museum.

The whitewashed, two-story building was the former home of Quito’s patron saint, Mariana de Jesus (1618-1645). Today, thousands of pilgrims make their way to the monastery to pay their respects to this Ecuadorian saint. Thousands more come to tour the exhibits which explore the daily routines of the cloistered nuns who have made their lives here, the religious art and artifacts from the monastery’s prestigious history and to purchase some of the nuns traditional sweets.

The cloistered nuns at Carmen Alto stay busy by producing limones desamargados, hollowed out tiny lemons filled with a sweet creamy center. After your visit, make sure to stop by the gift shop near the exit where you can stock up on these sweet treats as well as traditional baked goods, aromatic waters for nerves and insomnia, bee pollen, honey and bottles of mistela (anise-flavored liqueur).

The Museo del Carmen Alto is a great place to soak up some of Quito’s religious history as well as gather some unique souvenirs!

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Museo del Carmen Alto

http://www.museocarmenalto.gob.ec/
Address: Garcia Moreno y Rocafuerte, Junto al Arco de la Reina, Quito, Pinchincha 17015
Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 0930-1700
Admission: Adults, $3.00, Students (with I.D.), $2.00, Children, $1.50, Seniors over 65 years and those with disabilities, free. Spanish tours, free. English tours, $4.00.
Getting There: Located in the Historic Center of Quito on García Moreno and Rocafuerte streets, next to the Arco de la Reina. By Trolebus, stop at the station of the Plaza de Santo Domingo. By car, parking available on La Ronda, Guayaquil Street, in Cadisan, Calle Mejía and García Moreno.

The Middle of the City

There are five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ecuador.

The city of Quito received the prestigious honor in 1978.

Notorious for it equatorial crossing, Quito is known as the Middle of the World. It’s famous Old Town, which helped to earn its UNESCO World Heritage status, can be found in the middle of the city.

Founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city, the capital of Ecuador is one of the best preserved and least altered historic centers in Latin America. The city’s chief attraction is its Old Town, el Centro Historico, and its ample array of churches, monasteries and convents which date back to the beginnings of the colony. The Old Town spans a relatively small area, so it is quite easy to cover the distance in a day. Trying to decide what to see within that area is the most difficult part.

The best way to begin the exploration of Quito is in the Plaza de la Independencia, the city’s main square. Since the Basilica had taken up our entire morning, we would officially begin our tour the Old Town here.

Also known to the locals as Plaza Grande, the square is a part of the city’s rich history and a place where they go to chat, relax, play, eat and sometimes, get their shoes polished! It is surrounded by some of the most beautiful buildings in the city, including the Governor’s Palace (Palacio de Gobierno), the home and office of the Ecuadorian president, the Metropolitan Cathedral (Cathedral Metropolitana) and a centralized fountain surrounded by well manicured gardens.

Deciding to have a bite to eat before beginning our explorations we wandered into the Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop’s Palace), a beautiful manor located along the north side of the plaza, which is the official residence of the Archbishop of Quito. In its three cobblestone courtyards, there is a multitude of shops and eateries. In this mall, we found Cafe del Fraile situated on the second floor, extending onto the ornate wooden balconies.

The food and service were equally as good as the scenery, both inside the restaurant and out. Seated on the balcony, we had an excellent view of the courtyard below and of some of the beautiful religious artwork that decorated it. So mesmerized by the theological pieces, I had to take a walk throughout all of the rooms, to make sure I didn’t miss anything!

After our meal was complete, we proceeded into the plaza. We found that the police had completely surrounded the square with tall wire fencing and would only let us out onto Venezuela Street. Not sure what was happening, our question was answered a short time later when a band of protesters came marching down the street, carrying signs and bullhorns. Deciding to cross over to the other side of the square on another street, we headed to the Church of La Compañía de Jesus (The Church of the Society of Jesus).

After paying our admission, I inquired as to whether photos were allowed. Not surprisingly, I was told no, as is the norm in many of the churches in Ecuador. Of course, after beginning our tour of the church, I was so enthralled with the sheer artistry of the interior, that I had to try and capture as much as I could without being seen.

Built over a span of 160 years, this church is known as the most beautiful church in the city and possibly all of Ecuador. Its gold leaf interior, elaborate design and traditional architecture are some of the most captivating I have ever witnessed.

Moving on, we headed to the El Museo Camilo Egas…well, not really headed. As we were walking by, we were invited in by the security guard. Not sure of what we were going in to see, we just decided to go with it.

This museum is dedicated to one of the great modern Ecuadorian artists of the twentieth century, Camilo Egas. This exhibition showed the different stages of his work during his lifetime (1898-1962) and is housed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion.

As we walked along in the city, we enjoyed the handsome architecture…some buildings in better condition than others. The thing we enjoyed the most, however, was the people, most going about their daily activities and those practicing their traditional trades…the hatters, shoemakers and food vendors.

It was pretty easy to navigate the city using Google Maps on my Iphone, however, people often relate that making their way around the Old Town can be quite confusing. Noticing different types of signs, we learned that many streets have two different names…the official name on green plaques and the historical name painted on ceramic tiles. Most streets in the immediate Old Town area, however, have been laid in a grid-like fashion, from north to south, so getting around the center is fairly easy.

Heading in the direction of Panecillo Hill, we had decided to make our way to Calle La Ronda, the local nightlife area, when we were stopped by the police. Apparently we stuck out like the tourists that we were and they wanted to make sure that we were cautious if we were heading toward Calle La Ronda, an area sometimes known for pickpockets and thieves. A lively area in the evenings, we had thought to check it out during the day in the event that we decided to head there for dinner later that evening.

Though the walk was uneventful, heading down off of the overpass to access Calle de la Ronda, seemed a little sketchy. Once we were on the street, however, we found it to be quiet and lined with many historic buildings. It was interesting to find out that in the past, men would serenade the women on the balconies. If they sung well, they were invited to come in and meet the family and the woman. For those that could not carry a tune? They were only met with a bucket of water to their head!

Music still plays a big part on the mile-long stretch of the pedestrian street. During the evenings, especially on Friday and Saturday, the music is cranked up and you can find many restaurants cooking up Ecuadorian specialties and vendors selling handicrafts. We did head there later that evening, but found the loud music to be quite overwhelming and chose a quieter restaurant at the far end of the street.

Swinging by the Plaza Santo Domingo, I had hoped to be able to enter the church, however we found it to be closed. Inquiring with some of the vendors, I was told it would be open later in the day. Knowing our afternoon was coming to a close, I admired the uncrowded plaza which lent to some beautiful photos and we moved on. Later that evening, when we departed Calle La Ronda, we were able to observe the Church of Santo Domingo lit up beautifully and how crowded the square had become. If street performers is your thing, this is the place to go!

Continuing on our walk through Old Town, we decided to visit the Museo del Carmen Alto which is situated on the location where Saint Mariana of Jesus (Quito’s patron saint) lived and died. (Read more about it in a future post)

Nearing Plaza Independencia, we found that the police had removed the barricades and the square was back to its normal everyday routine. Though my husband was growing tired of visiting churches and desperately wanted to grab a seat and have a beer, I persuaded him to make one last push.

The Metropolitan Cathedral situated on the southern side of the plaza was a place that I had really wanted to visit and it did not disappoint. Though it is not as extravagant from the exterior, the interior has some amazing treasures. (You can read more about in in a future post)

So that was it! SO much to do in Quito’s old town and we had only made a dent. We were spending the next day traveling out to Otavalo and its sprawling market, so seeing the rest of Quito’s treasures would have to wait until a future visit.

When spending time in Quito, there is so much more to see…the Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño and its waxworks, the Casa de María Augusta Urrutia or the Casa de Sucre, to get a glimpse inside the best preserved Old Town houses and the Governor’s Palace (tours leave every 20 minutes starting at 0900). And for the church lovers like me, there are countless sanctuaries throughout the city, many within Old Town, including Plaza de San Francisco and its baroque church, Basilica of our Lady of the Merced, The Church of El Sagrario, Carmen Bajo, Church of San Agustin, Santa Catalina de Sienna Church and Convent, Church of San Blas, El Belén, The Guápulo Church and Convent.

I really must go back!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

El Museo Camilo Egas

Address: Venezuela 1302, Quito, Pichincha
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday-Sunday, 1000-1600
Admission: $1.00

Cafe Del Fraile

http://cafedelfraile.com/
Address: Chile Oe 4-22, Venezuela, Palacio, Arzobispal Mall, Quito, Pinchincha 170150
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1100, Sunday, 1000-0900

Plaza de la Independencia

Address: Garcia Moreno St. and Chile St., Venezuela, Quito, 170401, Ecuador
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of the Jesuits

http://fundacioniglesiadelacompania.org.ec/portal/m/Inicio
Address: Garcia Moreno N10-43, Quito 170401, Ecuador
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0930-1830, Saturday, 0930-1600, Sunday, 1230-1600
Admission: Free visits on the first Sunday of each month. Adult admission approximately $2.

Museo del Carmen Alto

http://www.museocarmenalto.gob.ec/
Address: Garcia Moreno y Rocafuerte, Junto al Arco de la Reina, Quito, Pinchincha 17015
Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 0930-1730, daily
Admission: Adults, $3.00, Children, $1.00

Museo Catedral Primada de Quito

http://www.catedraldequito.org/
Address: Venezuela y Espejo 715, Quito
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700
Admission: National Tourists, Adults, $2.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $1.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $4.00. Foreign Tourists, Adults, $3.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $2.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $6.00.

The Monastery on the Hill

Spying a nearby church tower as we stood atop the Castel Sant’Elmo, we decided that this would be our next destination. Little did I realize at the time that it was a monastery…one of my favorite places to visit!

The Certosa e Museo di San Martino is located a short distance from the Castel Sant’Elmo and is truly a treasure of Naples. Built in 1325 and then rebuilt in the 17th century, this large monastery complex was more than we ever imagined.

As we entered the courtyard, we discovered the church that we spied from Castel Sant’Elmo. This baroque sanctuary is a masterpiece decorated with a stunning marble floor, various paintings by Jusepe de Ribera, sculptures by Guiseppe Sanmartino and frescoes by Battistello Caracciolo. At the presbytery, there is an intricate marble lattice, decorated with precious stones and altar made of the same materials. Be sure to take a look up at the ceilings which are richly decorated with frescoes.

As we continued our exploration, we came to the peaceful Grand Cloister (Chiostro Grande) which contains a monk’s graveyard in one corner. This graveyard was quite fascinating with it skull topped enclosure and provided us with some great photo ops.

The Quarto del Priore, which is the apartment used for the reception of important guests, contains some relevant masterpieces including a Madonna col Bambino e San Giovannino by Pietro Bernini.

Surprisingly, we discovered that the monastery houses the Museo Nazional di San Martino which offers a look a many collections. One of my passions is collecting nativity scenes from around the world. Here, the museum showcases their extensive collection, some extremely rare, dating back to the 1800’s.

In another part of the monastery, there are many precious objects, including paintings and bronze sculptures by Neapolitan artists of the 19th century. My favorite part of the exhibit, however, was The Sezione Navale, or Maritime Museum, where many model ships and ship’s instruments were on display. The most appealing was the full-sized Great Barge, used by King Charles of Bourbon in the 1700’s. Other areas offer displays showcasing sculpture and epigraphy and a library on the second floor dedicated to the Prints and Drawings Collections with over 8,000 pieces.

A short walk through the garden was also in order, which offered an overlook to the city. It was a bit overgrown and unkempt leading us to return to the cloistered areas to enjoy the outdoors.

Though this was not the original monastery I had hoped to visit, that being Monastero di Santa Chiara, Certosa e Museo di San Martino was close by and surpassed my expectations.

If anyone is visiting Naples and making the ascent to the Castel Sant’Elmo, save time for a visit to this amazing monastery next door!

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Certosa e Museo di San Martino

http://www.polomusealecampania.beniculturali.it/index.php/certosa-e-museo
Address: Largo S. Martino, 5, 80129 Napoli NA, Italy
Hours: 0830-1830, Monday to Saturday. 0830-1600, Sunday. Closed Wednesday.
Admission: Full, 6,00€, Reduced, 3,00€
Getting There: Metro, Vanvitelli and then bus V1 to Piazzale San Martino. Bus: C28, C31, or C36 to Piazza Vanvitelli. Funicular: Centrale to Piazza Fuga or Montesanto to Morghen

One More Day

While standing on the slopes of Pacaya Volcano, we couldn’t help but feel elated!

I can’t explain the pure joy we were feeling for having chosen to visit Guatemala and the beautiful city of Antigua…for all the things we had seen while we were there…for the friendly Guatemalans that we had encountered…for all of the beauty we had laid our eyes upon!

We were not ready for it to be over and thankfully, we were able to work out another night’s stay with our hotel (not an easy feat with the busy Holy Week)!

In order to make the most of our extra time, we were up early to hit the streets and see everything we had not yet had the time to. Believe me, there was quite a bit, plus more than we would have ever imagined.

First stop was the Cementerio General San Lázaro, just down the street from our hotel. We had not intended to stop here, but it was on the way to the our first destination. Always having been intrigued by old cemeteries, I figured it was worth a quick look.

Walking through the white arched entrance, decorated for Holy Week, we made our way through the municipal cemetery that was created in 1834 by the state major, Mariano Galvez on land that once hosted a leper’s hospital. The maze of white-washed tombs, some displaying the purple decorations for Holy week, was very peaceful and we observed the immaculate grounds. Though there were many mausoleums and smaller tombs, there were just as many that were quite grand. The small colonial church, San Lazaro, at the end of the large initial walkway, contained some interesting statues, both inside and out, and a large gold altar.

Leaving the cemetery, we made our way down the street to our original destination, Convento la Recolección, which I had spotted on my map the night before. We didn’t have any idea of what to expect here, but after paying our admission at the gate, we were blown away by what we found.

In the United States, there are so many building codes that dictate the structural integrity of a building. If a building does not meet these codes, people are most definitely not allowed to enter the premises or in some cases, even approach. On our first day, we were shocked to see how we could wander freely through the ruins of the monasteries that had no barrier walls or guard rails.

Convento la Recolección, took this to a whole different level.

We could see that this structure was missing its roof and that the front walls were crumbling, as approached on the lengthy sidewalk. There were two huge chunks of stone on either side of the sidewalk and we discovered that these were pieces of the same front walls that had collapsed during the great earthquake of 1773.

Approaching the front steps, we looked through the stone archway (surprisingly still intact), to the interior. The floor was littered with boulder-sized remains of the church’s ceiling and columns. There were no barriers or restrictions on where you could walk and we slowly and carefully made our way around the decaying floor, littered with its broken extremities, while staring upwards at the remaining walls, some still displaying its original detailing. Truly one of the most thought provoking places I have ever visited!

This architectural complex was a former church and monastery of the Order of the Recollects, initiated when in 1685, two missionaries of the friars of the Recollects arrived and sought permission for construction of the monastery. Though it was originally determined by the City Council that not enough friars were present to support the venture and that enough monasteries had been established, a royal decree was finally issued for its construction in 1700. Construction commenced in 1701 and continued until 1717 when the church was inaugurated. A short time later that year, earthquakes damaged the church and cloisters. Repairs were carried out, however, the devastating Santa Marta Earthquake of 1773, left the complex in ruins.

Today, the ruins are protected as both a national monument and as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as we made our way out of the church, we walked into the adjacent monastery grounds. Here, the walls are still standing, but as with the church, the complex is open to the Antiguan heavens. The interior rooms and the former cloister is free of rubble, giving it a different feel than the church. Many of the walls and interior spaces were aged and decrepit, however, there were many traces of the architectural details that once graced its walls.

Heading a few blocks up the road, we found ourselves at our next stop, Convento de San Jeronimo. This complex was once planned as the College of St. Jerome by the Order of Mercy in 1757, however, in 1765, after initial construction was almost demolished, it was decided that the building would be used as the building of the Real Income Alcabalas and Royal Customs, one of the city’s top financial institutions of the time. As with most other buildings within the city, its construction was affected by earthquakes and some of its remains used as building materials for other projects within the city.

Today, the well-manicured grounds contain a multitude of flowers, shrubs and trees and provide a peaceful setting for families who desire to have a nice setting for a picnic lunch. Though the complex is not immense, it is nice to explore some of the small rooms and ascend the staircases to the top. At the north end, we looked out over the courtyard and its central fountain toward the towering Volcan de Agua in the distance.

Our final destination took us across the city, now teeming with visitors, here to see the Holy Week processions. It seemed that the city’s population had tripled overnight and we had a difficult time making our way through the parades that journeyed through the streets, now even during the daytime hours.

The festivities reminded me so much of Mardi Gras, with its vendors and convivial atmosphere, yet, without the debauchery. Many people were donning purple robes and the Holy Week processions that we had witnessed during the previous evenings, had grown in size, both in the amount of participants and the proportions of the floats. In the Tanque La Unión, the historic gathering place used by the citizens to wash their clothes during colonial times, there were countless peddlers lining its perimeter and cooking traditional Guatemalan delicacies and dishes which could be purchased. The mournful sounds of the bands could be heard throughout the city, especially in the nearby Convento Santa Clara.

Santa Clara was established in 1734 by the sisters from Puebla, Mexico and four years later, destroyed by the Santa Marta Earthquake and subsequently abandoned.

As we entered, we noticed how much larger this complex was compared to the others we had visited. It was filled with floral blooms and shrubs and like most others, missing most of its ceiling.

Most interesting, however, was the intact church’s stonework facade with is Serbian balustrade pilasters and the arched niches along the nave which served as confessionals in addition to the captivating cloister with its ancient fountain.

Walking along one of the halls, you can stand atop the extended pulpit chair and climb the one remaining stairway adjacent to the cloister. Magnificent views over the convent can be obtained here as well as of the nearby mountains.

As our day was coming to a close, we ducked into the nearby Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol, its front portico packed with those looking to purchase items from the multitude of vendors in the streets and in front of the church or just hoping to get a better view of the processions.

Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol is a smaller baroque church adjacent to San Pedro Hospital. It was designed by Nicolás de Cárcamo and named in honor of Hermano Pedro de San José Betancur, whose tomb we had seen on our second day at the Santuario San Francisco el Grande.

As we stood, once again, on the portico, we looked out into the street and noticed a brightly colored display comprised of pine needles, sawdust and flowers. When the owner of our hotel had mentioned to us that “carpets” were beginning to be laid throughout the city, we innocently envisioned something you would see at a movie screening. Suddenly, the colorful sawdust between the cobblestones and the bags of sawdust and the stencils at the market began to make sense. The night before, we had watched a lady lay pine needles in a cordoned-off section on one of the streets as we walked home. We really had no idea what was transpiring and then it all made sense as we looked down on the street below us.

These were the carpets!

But, did the processions avoid these streets that the carpets were laid down on?

As a procession made its way down our street, we watched as they paraded right through these carpets, destroying the beautiful display. After the procession was complete, there were multiple people following who swept up the remnants, leaving a scattering of sawdust wedged between the paving stones.

Walking home, we began to notice so many of these carpets or “alfombras” lining the streets. It was obvious how much work and time was devoted to these endeavors and we were mesmerized as we walked by and examined these intricate designs which sometimes take months to plan involving multiple members of families and businesses.

Around the corner from our hotel, we noticed two different alfombras being laid. We decided that we could check their progress early in the morning when we were heading to the airport.

During the early morning hours, packing up our suitcases, we were informed by the hotel staff that our driver had called and could not make it to the hotel. Since we would have to the walk the six blocks to meet him, we headed into the darkened streets, only to find them lighted by strong lamps and enlivened with loud music.

As we traversed the distance to our awaiting transportation, we discovered why he could not make it to our hotel. The streets were blocked and people had worked through the night, creating alfrombras everywhere. It was the most amazing sight…beautiful carpets stretching as far as we could see.

Though I snapped as many pictures as I could while walking, the outcome does not show you the impact of what were seeing, plus with the motion and darkened streets, my pictures were not the clearest.

If I had realized what was to come, we might have planned on leaving on the afternoon flight and spending the early morning hours walking around the city, admiring the carpets and watching the processions originate from La Merced (around 4:00 am) when the processioners swap their purple robes to black ones. Still, what we saw was one of the most intriguing spectacles, leading me to think that I need to plan a trip in the future, just to spend time inspecting the alfombras!

As our plane departed Guatemala City a few hours later, I sat back in my seat, thinking of all that we had experienced during the last few days. It was mind boggling how much we accomplished not knowing one thing about Guatemala, Antigua, it history and traditions and yet, discovered, almost by accident.

With so much more to explore in this rich country…Lake Atitlan, the ruins of Tikal, Iximche and Yaxha and miles of beach-lined coast…Guatemala deserves more than just one more day!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Cemeterio General San Lázaro

Address: Calle San Bartolome Becerra, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: free

Convento la Recolección

Address: 1a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Nationals, Q5, Central American, Q15, Foreign Student Q20 (about $2.60 US) , Q40 (about $5.25 US) per person

Convento de San Jeronimo

Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia y 1a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Nationals, Q5, Central American, Q15, Foreign Student Q20 (about $2.60 US) , Q40 (about $5.25 US) per person

Convento Santa Clara

Address: 6a Calle Oriente y 2a Avenida Sur Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Nationals, Q5, Central American, Q15, Foreign Student Q20 (about $2.60 US) , Q40 (about $5.25 US) per person

Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol

Address: Guatemala 03001, 6a Calle Oriente No. 20, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: free

For The Price Of A Train Ticket

Where would you go for the price of a train ticket?

Rome has set the bar very high for me as far as Italian cities go. I never tire of walking through the city and finding that around every corner there is something bigger and better. I don’t ever feel as though I need to venture outside of the city.

Milan, however, was never a place that I could find footing with. In fact, I would complain (to anyone who would listen) about how much I hated going there. I always felt like I had to work extra-hard to find the things that make it Milan…and it was never just around the corner.

Over the years, I have done research and found those outstanding and sometimes hidden gems that make Milan special…there were more than I ever imagined and more of which I hope to come. Lately, however, I have stumbled upon an interesting fact. The trains in Milan are relatively inexpensive.

For the price of a train ticket, I could venture outside of Milan and discover so much more. That inexpensive ticket opens up lots of possibilities with so many charming Italian cities nearby that you can explore.

Having visited the city of Pavia, about a 45 minute journey from Milan, I had heard about Certosa di Pavia, one of the largest monasteries in Italy. In fact, I had seen it in the distance from my window on the train when I visited Pavia. Filling the skyline in the countryside, it appeared imposing and mysterious…I had to buy a train ticket to check it out!

Getting to the monastery was quite easy. The subway near my hotel, brought me to Garibaldi station and from there I was able to take a train straight to the Certosa di Pavia station. One there, it was about a 12-15 minute walk, following the path around the high monastery walls to the entrance.

Having discovered that a tour was offered at the opening times in Italian only, I was a bit disappointed that there were no others in English. Someone, however, gave me a bit of advice…take the tour in Italian. Even if you don’t understand any of it, you will get to see parts of the monastery that are not open to those not taking part in the tour.

Time to muster all of my Italian…and I promise, there’s not enough in my repertoire to understand a guide on a tour.

There were many visitors congregating at the entrance and right on schedule, someone was there to open the gates and allow everyone in.

Now, I have been to the Duomo in Milan many times and to this day, I am still awe-struck by its beauty and intricacies. This place definitely gives the Duomo a run for its money! Towering above the grass courtyard, it simply takes your breath away! Every nook and cranny of the structure’s facade is filled with reliefs, statues and inlaid carvings and you want to stand there and take in every minute detail.

Heading inside, however, I was on a mission to make sure that I did not miss the tour. Mouth gaping at the larger than life-size statues dominating the dimly lit space, I obliged when beckoned by the monk behind the gates at the rear of the church.

Starting at the left side structure, our tour commenced with a request…no photographs. It was interesting however, to realize that the monks who reside in the monastery now are of the order of the Cistercians, those who have taken a vow of silence. How is it that this Cistercian monk was giving us a tour? It was later, that I learned that some of the monks have been released from their vow for the sole purpose of giving guided tours.

Moving throughout the spaces behind the gates, the monk guided us though each of the areas within the church probably informing our tour group of the important details about the church’s inception.

(My Italian lacking severely, I was busy sneaking photos, not even trying to comprehend what was being communicated!)

The monastery, built in 1396-1495, is one of the largest in Italy. Founded by the monastic order of Carthusians, the Certosa is vastly different in style than what the Carthusians were normally known for…simplicity of architecture.

Originally, the church was built to serve as a mausoleum for the Visconti family and was built in the Gothic style with a Latin cross plan, consisting of a nave, two aisles and transept. Indeed inspired by the Duomo of Milan, its crossed vaults on Gothic arches are alternately decorated with geometrical shapes and starry skies.

A fresco, Incoronation of Mary between Francesco and Ludovico Sforza can be seen in the main apse as well as other frescoes with saints and prophets. The Certosa also exhibits other painted masterpieces by Bergognone including the panels of St. Ambrose and San Siro and the Crucifixion. Some important paintings originally in the church have either disappeared or been disassembled and distributed among museums, including the National Gallery of London. Inside the Chapel of St. Michael, frescoes by Carlo Francesco Nuvolone can be inspected and there is an important collection of stained glass windows by 15th century masters, including Zanetto Bugatto, Vincenzo Foppa, Bergognone and Hans Witz. Many notable sculptural works can be found here including the carved wooden choir stalls, the marble altar frontals, a bronze candelabra by Annibale Fontana and a 16th century high altar.

The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti can be found in the southern transept as well as the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the northern transept.

*The tomb of* *Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este*

*Reproduction of the tomb of* *Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este* *in the Museum of Certosa di Pavia*

Following the monk, we were awestruck by the portal with sculptures by the Mantegazza brothers, leading to the Small Cloister with a small garden in the center and the terracotta decorations on the small pilasters. The Grande Cloister was similarly decorated with the cells of the monks opening to a central garden. It was quite interesting (and moving) to walk through one of the monk’s cells to see just how simply they lived.

After our tour was complete, I once again walked through the parts of the church that had caught my attention and finally made my way to the Museum. With free admission, the museum is worth taking the time to walk through and displays many of the Certosa’s impressive pieces and informs about the history the area. What I loved the most, however, is the plaster casts of friezes from the church’s facade. Here you can see, up close, what you can’t see with the naked eye due their locations high in the facade.

Finally, I headed into the Monastic Shop where the products made by the monks who reside at the monastery are sold. There is a large selection of herbal teas, alcoholic beverages, soaps, honey, religious icons and rosaries for purchase and you might spy one of those monks catching a nap in the corner, like I did!

Before heading out, I spent some time walking around the grounds in front of the church before heading out to make my way back to the train station.

Happy that I learned about the inexpensive price of Italy’s trains, I inserted my few euros into the ticket machine and purchased my return ticket, headed back to Milan, dinner and some much needed rest.

Most impressed by the Certosa di Pavia, this will most certainly be the first of many adventures outside of Milan!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Certosa di Pavia

https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=search&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=it&sp=nmt4&u=http://www.certosadipavia.it/&xid=17259,15700023,15700186,15700190,15700253,15700256,15700259&usg=ALkJrhi3Wug5qLKO0OMFPeSkSyTf6NKUfg
Address: Via del Monumento, 4, 27012 Certosa di Pavia PV, Italy
Hours: 0900-1130 and 1430-1630. Closed Mondays.
Admission: free
Getting There: There are trains from many stations in Milan. I traveled from Milan Garibaldi station straight to, Certosa di Pavia, one stop before Pavia. You can see the monastery from the station and it is about a fifteen minute walk to the entrance to the monastery.

The Bones of Cusco

Ruins, churches and bones.

There are a lot of these in Cusco.

After our return from Machu Picchu, we were determined to discover everything there was in Cusco. We had explored the ruins, now it was time for the churches and bones.

On the first day of our arrival, we had walked through the Plaza San Francisco. Intrigued by the church there, I had walked over and tried the door. It was locked, so I figured we would return on another day.

After perusing maps and information on things to do in the city, I discovered that the church was connected to a monastery and convent and was open to the public for guided tours. This was something I wanted to see…and see how it compared to the San Francisco Monastery in Lima.

As we walked down the hill from our hotel, we entered the plaza and made our way to the museum’s entrance. Paying our entrance fee, we waited patiently for the guide to take us through the property.

After a brief introduction, he uttered those words I hate…”pictures are not allowed”.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooo!

Built in 1572 by the order of Viceroy Francisco de Toledo, the monastery was used until 1650, when an earthquake damaged the property. Restoration put it back into operation until the present, however, where there were once 180 Franciscan monks living on the premises, only three remain.

We were guided through the two-storied property which includes cloisters, a choir, library, refectory, chapels and the church. Many of the paintings are in need of restoration but one of the highlights is the monumental canvas measuring 12 x 9 which depicts the genealogy of the Franciscan family by Juan Espinoza de los Monteros. Allegedly, this painting is the largest in Latin America!

Original carvings and religious artwork, chests, manuscripts and books fill the rooms and I was both mesmerized by what I was seeing, but also disappointed that I could not capture most of it, but for the occasional stolen photo when our guide was not looking.

As we stood in the choir loft of the church, carved of cedar by local Franciscan Friar Luis Montes, Isisdro Fernandez Inka and Antonio Paz, we admired what we could see below in the dimly lit space…the Latin cross plan with three naves and topped with a high square tower. Inquiring of the opening hours so that I might return, we were told that although hours were posted, they are not always reliable.

Continuing on, our guide brought us to the library, filled with massive texts, many of which are extremely valuable. A vast number of books are also housed elsewhere and the space is lit by natural lighting entering from the large, floor-to-ceiling windows.

Finally, we were led to the catacombs which contain the remains of several unknown locals from ancient periods. The first cemetery built in the city, the bones are lined on each side of the hallways located beneath the church. We were led down a stairway in one of the rooms to a cave-like space. Also filled with bones, they were arranged, though not as beautifully as others I have seen, such as in the Capuchin Crypt in Rome and San Bernardino alle Ossa in Milan. An altar honoring Saint Francis of Assisi was also present here and shockingly, I was allowed to take pictures.

Eventually, we were deposited back in the cloisters and left to explore the gardens. Pictures were also allowed, so we snapped a few selfies, to placate my need to capture the moment.

Though many only use Cusco as a stepping stone for their visit to Machu Picchu, there is much to explore in the once historic capital of the Inca Empire. The monastery is centrally located and requires only a short amount of time…take advantage of it!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

San Francisco de Asís Monastery

Address: Jirón Lampa, Distrito de Lima, Peru, Cusco. Located in the Plaza San Francisco, near the National School of Sciences.
Hours: Museum, Monday to Friday, 0900-1200 and 1500-1745. Saturday, 0900-1200. Closed Sunday and holidays. Church, Monday to Saturday, 0630 to 2000. Sunday, 0630-1200 and 1700-2000.
Admission: Museum, General, S / 15.00, National Student, S / 3.00. Church, free admission

Flying South

South America…here we come!

Packing up that manila folder filled with many hours of research, bookings, reservations, tickets and general information was so final. If it wasn’t in the folder, chances were that it wasn’t going to happen.

So, unlike many other trips I have taken in the past, where I had a general plan but booked on the fly, this one had specific items that had to be booked in advance. With my husband in tow, I have to admit, I was a bit nervous about his having a good time and things working out as they should.

More than anything, I wanted my husband to enjoy the things that I have previously experienced in Lima and experience new things together in Cusco and Machu Picchu.

After a quick six hours in the air, we were touching down in Lima and making our way through customs and immigration. Arriving at our hotel, we were pleased to find that we had been upgraded to a beautiful suite and despite the late hour, we still had time to grab a nightcap at the hotel bar.

So far, so good!

After a hearty breakfast the next morning, we headed out to explore the Historic Center of Lima.

San Francisco Monastery was first on our agenda. Having visited this UNESCO World Heritage site on my first visit to Lima (read about it in my post Lovely Lima), I was eager for my husband to experience its refined beauty and history. Only having to wait a short time for the next English tour, we were taken through the alluring structure which also contains a library and catacombs.

After a short walk around the Plaza Mayor…and a few selfies…we headed to the Cathedral Basilica of Lima (read about my first visit in my post Cathedral of Lima). Officially inaugurated by conquistador Francisco Pizzaro who is also entombed in the cathedral, the church incorporates a small ossuary and the Religious Art Museum of the Cathedral of Lima. Every single one of the fourteen individual chapels is worth inspection, as each seems to be more ornate and more elaborate than the other.

After a walk through some of the small markets and a glimpse at the Presidential Palace, we jumped back into a cab and headed back toward Miraflores. Traffic of course, was at its usual, almost standstill. Heading down Avenue Arequipa, we made a quick decision to stop our driver near a street heading to Huaca Pucllana (read about my first visit on my post A Peruvian Pyramid), a great adobe and clay pyramid which served as an important ceremonial and administrative center between the years of 200 and 700 AD. Luckily, an English tour was about to commence and were able to follow along, learning about the historic structure.

Finally, we headed back toward Parque Kennedy in the center of Miraflores. Walking through the park, I pointed out the Church of the Miraculous Virgin (read about my first visit in my post The Colonial Church) and City Hall. Guiding my husband toward a store, La Quinta, with tables piled high with clothing, he inquired as to whether he was going to get some of the churros that I always talk about. Yes, but first a little shopping expedition (read more about it in my blog post Shop Til You Drop)!

Not only did my husband find a great many shirts of the popular brand that he loves here at a fabulous discount, but he even went back after churros for a few more!

Eager to rest our feet and relax for a while, we found a great little restaurant with amazing Peruvian cerviche. A couple of beer later, the toll of our adventurous day was catching up. Knowing we had a full day ahead of us, it was time to enjoy our suite for a few more hours and get some shut eye.

Cusco was calling!

So, we were up early the next morning and heading even further south into Peru. Though is was an arduous task getting to the airport, even with easy Saturday traffic, the check-in process with LC Peru was quite simple and before lunchtime, we had already checked into our hotel in Cusco.

Headed down the hill behind our hotel, we soon got our first glimpses of Cusco’s main areas, the San Francisco Plaza and the beautiful Plaza de Armas flanked on the east and south by the alluring Cusco Cathedral and the Iglesia De La Compañia De Jesús and on the north and west by restaurants and shops.

The streets were busy with residents going about their Saturday business and we joined in with the errands we had to attend to. Though we enjoyed walking along the streets of Cusco and admiring the impressive colonial architecture, open spaces and occasional street art, we were seeking out the ticket office to purchase our bus tickets for Machu Picchu prior to heading to Aguas Calientes. Not realizing that we were required to bring our passports for purchase, the agent agreed to use our driver’s licenses and pictures of our passports that we both had in our phones.

Finally, with tickets in hand, we set out to accomplish the last of our tasks of the day, collecting our tickets for our Sacred Valley tour the next morning. This tour had been set up for us by a friend of a friend. As we found the office, met the agent and paid for the tour tickets, we were instructed on our pick up time in the morning and what our day would entail…lots of stops, beautiful ruins, interaction with the local people and lunch. Very excited about to hear what our upcoming day, we bid our travel agent goodbye and continued our explorations of the Plaza de Armas, culminating with a scrumptious, Peruvian dinner.

Now, I am adventurous eater, but my husband is not. There are two things that I wanted to try in Peru and alpaca was one of them. After deciding on one of the many restaurants in the square, we found a nice, little place, overlooking the beautiful plaza and ordered this unique entree. Believe it or not, my husband decided to join me on my quest to try something new! Though we found it not to be as tasty as we thought, we were glad we had a new experience under our belt. One of many to come in the next few days!

After much planning and travel, it was time! Our Machu Picchu adventure was just beginning!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

San Francisco Monastery

http://museocatacumbas.com/
Address: Jirón Lampa, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
Hours: 0900-2015, daily
Admission: Adults, S / 15.00 (about $4.46 US), Students, S / 8.00 (about $2.38 US), Children, S / 3.00 (about $0.89 US)

Cathedral Basilica of Lima

https://arzobispadodelima.org/
Address: Jirón Carabaya, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
Hours: 0900-1700, Monday-Friday, 0900-1200, Saturday, 1300-1700, Sunday
Admission: General, S / 10.00 (about $3.00 US)

Huaca Pucllana

http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe/
Address: cuadra S/n, Calle General Borgoño 8, Miraflores, Peru
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Adults, S / 12.00 (about $3.57 US), Children Under 12, Students and Teachers, S / 6.00 (about $1.79 US)

LC Peru

http://www.lcperu.pe/

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Consettur Machupicchu S.A.C.

Address: Av. Infancia, 433, Wanchaq, Cusco
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0800-1245, 1500-1800, Sunday, 0800-1245
Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Inter Bank

Address: Av. El Sol, 380, Cusco
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0900-1300, 1400-1800, Saturday, 0900-1300
Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Aguas Calientes (Bus Stop)

Address: Av. Hermanos Ayar S/N
Hours: Monday-Sunday, 0500-2100
Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Machu Picchu

Address: Bus Stop
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0730-1730
Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.