“Don’t cry because it’s over. Smile because it happened.” – Dr. Seuss
Our last morning. It was a day of mixed emotions…sad to be packing up and leaving the beautiful country of Croatia, but also glad to have had the wonderful experiences during our vacation…the good (the weather, the amazing apartments, new friends), the bad (not making it to Mostar, “vampire” flyovers) and the ugly (putting the rental car in a precarious position)!
There were so many things that we had been able to enjoy and see during our stay and it wasn’t quite over, I would soon discover. While we had seen most of what makes Dubrovnik special, it still had one more surprise up its sleeve on this day.
As we locked up our Airbnb and headed to the Stradun and past the Dominican Monastery, we booked our Uber to the airport. Following the pickup directions, we soon learned that there was yet another gate to the old town that we had yet to find…Vrata od Ploča.
Vrata od Ploča (the gate from Ploče) is the eastern entrance to Dubrovnik’s old town, built in 1450. Exiting through it, passing the inner door topped with a figure of St. Vlaho, we walked over a stone bridge which spanned a moat and a wooden lifting bridge and received stunning views of the harbor, thanks to our efforts.
Vrata od Ploča
Vrata od Ploča
A large flock of pigeons sat on the nearby walls and under the trees, eyeing us warily as we walked by. Suddenly, without warning, they took us by surprise as they all took flight in one great motion. Flapping their wings, it was if they were both saying goodbye and showing us that it was time for us to fly home too.
Sculpture along the waterfront
After our short ride to Čilipi International Airport, we too were soaring above the Croatian coastline. Spotting Dubronik almost immediately and then the Pakleni and Elafiti Islands, as well as Split, we happily reflected on the good memories we had shared…and even the bad and the ugly ones…because, it takes all kinds to make a trip what it is, in the end!
Croatia from the sky.
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Vrata od Ploča
Address: Ul. Vrata od Ploča, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
This was our final day in Croatia. It needed to count.
Since my husband had been a good sport and seen many churches and monasteries with me over the past week, I decided to give him a break. He wanted to walk around and look at his own leisure. Me? I wanted to go to the Franciscan Monastery and the Cathedral of Dubrovnik, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.
The Franciscan Monastery has an interesting history in that it contains one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. The complex, built around 1317, was initially located outside of the city gates. Moved due to the threat of war, it now stands just inside the Pile Gate and can be visited regularly which is where I headed first.
Entrance to the Franciscan Monastery Museum
Located beside the Holy Savior Church and built by the Franciscans who arrived in Dubrovnik around 1234, it contains two cloisters; one built in the Renaissance style with grand arches and the other in the Romanesque and Gothic styles boasting 120 columns. The Renaissance cloisters were much like many others I had seen before, however, it was the upper cloisters that I longed to see with its carved columns depicting animals and humans, which were not open to the public.
Once one of the wealthiest churches in the city, it was largely destroyed by the earthquake of 1667. Today, only part of its treasury is on display, however, it is the pharmacy, dating back to 1317 that people come for. Since the Franciscans are known for their devotion to the sick, the pharmacy aided their mission but also served the public, giving the friars a steady income. On display, you can see many of the old manuscripts that the friars used in the creation of their pharmaceuticals as well as the tools of their trade. You can also stop into the actual pharmacy to make any medical purchases you may need.
Franciscan Monastery Treasury and MuseumFranciscan Monastery Treasury and Museum
After my tour was complete, I headed to the Dubrovnik Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, making my way through the endless passageways and streets that make up the city. I had passed by this cathedral numerous times, but had not had the time to enter and discover what made it so special and the seat of the Diocese of Dubrovnik.
Sights in Dubrovnik
Sights in Dubrovnik
Sights in Dubrovnik
Sights in Dubrovnik
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Built on the site of several formal cathedrals dating back to the 7th, 10th, 11th and 12th centuries, this Baroque church was completed in 1713 after the previous had also been destroyed in the earthquake of 1667.
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
While it is the large dome that dominates the interior, it appears to be more modern than its 1700s origins. The main altar is decorated with carved panels which portray the Assumption of the Virgin and its treasury contains 182 relics from different regents; relics from the head, arm, and leg of Dubrovnik patron saint St Blasius, sacral dishes from the 13th to 18th centuries, and a large number of precious paintings. These relics are displayed in a small chapel from which you can gain access by paying a small entrance fee. Photographs are prohibited, but since I was the only visitor there at the time, I was able to capture a few, the most captivating displaying the gilded ceiling centered with a cherubic composition.
Chapel of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Chapel of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
An interesting note about the cathedral is that it is said that while Richard the Lionheart was shipwrecked in Dubrovnik in 1192, he contributed a great sum towards the building of the cathedral, hoping to gain favor in the eyes of the Lord for his survival.
After my explorations were complete and my husband and I had a quick lunch, we stopped by our apartment to don more appropriate boat gear and lather up for an afternoon in the Croatian sun! Heading down to the port, we waited for Ivusa who picked us up promptly at our designated time.
Dodging the intermittent boat traffic in the harbor, we were soon on our way, passing the walls of the city, which we had stood upon a week ago, looking out on this very same water that we were now cruising through. It was a beautiful day with only a few clouds in the sky, although not extremely hot as it was now the beginning of October.
Port of DubrovnikWalls of Dubrovnik’s Old TownElafiti IslandsElafiti Islands
The Elafiti Islands’ scenery was absolutely gorgeous and we sipped upon ice cold beers that Ivusa procured from a chest he had brought for the occasion. Pulling into a small cave, he displayed his expert boatmanship, maneuvering easily in the small space so we could see its interior. A little further up the rocky coast, he cut off the engine and showed us a small opening just above the water. Other boats had pulled up in this area and a few people were swimming toward the opening. This was the Blue Cave that I had seen in my friend’s pictures and we were invited to jump on in and have a look!
Cave in the Elafiti Islands
Now, while my son and I were in Capri, we took a boat into the Blue Grotto…it was much hotter there at the time, but I didn’t have to swim in cold water…into a small space. As an advanced scuba diver, you would think that I wouldn’t have been as nervous as I was, but as I eyed my husband in the water, waiting on me, I decided that you can’t pass up an opportunity and jumped right in. When I tell you that the water was cold…well, I can’t even describe how it took my breath away. For good measure, I took a small float with me and swam for dear life toward the opening!
As we ducked under the water and into the small cave, I suddenly forgot that my feet were numb and marveled at the color of the water as we faced the opening. Simply amazing!
The Blue Cave in the Elafiti Islands
Successfully making it back to the boat, we were on our way again in the island chain, pulling into the harbor of Sudurad. I had told Ivusa that I loved visiting churches and he said that this small island contained approximately thirty churches which were built in the middle ages. Many were in a ruined state, but as we pulled adjacent to the dock, he pointed out a tower Pakljena from 1529 and the Church of the Holy Spirit which contains a flat roof, the largest of its kind in the Adriatic.
Sudurad
My husband and I set out on foot to do some quick explorations, passing small restaurants and facilities offering olive oil and wine tastings, as the island cultivates a great quantity of olives, grapes as well as figs.
Sudurad
Sudurad
Sudurad
Sudurad
Sudurad
Our visit was short and we headed back to the boat to continue our tour, soon pulling up to the dock in Lopud. A much larger island than Sudurad, we decided to head (yes, at my suggestion) towards the church tower, which, coincidentally we discovered was a Franciscan Monastery built in 1493! The church and grounds were open for inspection and we took our time enjoying the view from the hilltop.
LopudLopud
Lopud
Franciscan Monastery
Franciscan Monastery
Afterward, we made our way back along the western waterfront, browsing the shops, admiring the sandy beach and popping in to see a small chapel, Crkva Bezgresno zacece BDMarije, which I presume belongs to the Catholic Church, though I couldn’t find more information after visit. We enjoyed more of the scenery and a beer and then headed back to the boat and a waiting Ivusa.
LopudLopudChapelLopud
The day was growing late and the sun getting lower in the sky. Heading back toward Dubrovnik in the waning light, Ivusa ensured that we had the best sunset views. As we approached Dubrovnik, it was dark and the hilltop lights sparkled on the water. Quite the magical ending to a magical day…and of course, a magical week!
Sunset in the Elafiti Islands
Sunset in the Elafiti Islands
Dubrovnik Night Lights
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All good things must come to an end, but better things may be in store.
Our time exploring other parts of Croatia was complete, but we were leaving beautiful little Hvar Town, heading back to the beautiful city of Dubrovnik and now we knew what to expect. There were many things we wanted to do and see, including our new friend, Ivusa.
Our ferry from Hvar Town to Dubrovnik
The ferry ride was a bit longer this time, but included a stop to pick up and deposit other passengers in Korčula. Since I was able to grab a spot on the back deck as we made our way to the dock, I had prime viewing of the beautiful old city. Why didn’t we spend a few days here? Definitely next time!
Lovely Korčula!
Four hours later, after our departure from Hvar, we were disembarking in Dubrovnik and catching a taxi to the Old Town. Our Airbnb, this time, was within the Old Town city walls…in fact, it was adjacent to Stradun, the city’s main pedestrian street, so a bit more convenient in that we didn’t have to climb twenty-two billion stairs!
Martecchini Airbnb apartment
After depositing our luggage in our room, we were off!
The Dominican Monastery, just around the corner, was first on our list. Dating back to the 14th century, the monastery is one of the most important architectural landmarks in the city and contains a great number of paintings, artifacts, jewelry and other items from Dubrovnik’s history. Its bell towers are prominent when walking the walls of the city, however, these not quite being as old as the monastery itself. Begun in the 16th century, they were only completed in the 18th.
Within the monastery, is the Gothic church of Saint Dominic, usually richly decorated and filled with treasures including the large golden crucifix above the main altar from the 14th century. Under construction at the time, we had to use our imaginations in order to “see” what it usually presents. The monastery museum was also quite intriguing with its vast jewelry collection and paintings from the Dubrovnik art school from the 15th and 16th centuries.
Churchof St. Dominic
Treasures from the Dominican Monastery MuseumTreasures from the Dominican Monastery MuseumTreasures from the Dominican Monastery Museum
Making our way through the abbey, we noted the Capital Hall, where the monastic community held its meetings, and the porches of the cloister which were added in the 15th century. Within the cloister is a rich green oasis complete with a stone well crown and I would imagine this was a favorite place for the residents to relax and enjoy nature’s beauty.
After our visit was complete, we walked a short distance, past the clock tower, to the Church of St. Blaise. The steps of this church is both a meeting place, due to its central location near the clock tower, and a resting place, perfect for people watching. We also noticed that many from the community congregate here, including the children, who play games on the steps and in Luza Square in front of the church.
Clock Tower
Church of St. BlaiseChurch of St. Blaise
The interior of this church did not disappoint my “church fascination” with its beautifully decorated golden altar, taking my breath away when I entered. Named after the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the church was built in 1715, by Venetian architect and sculptor Marino Gropelli on the foundations of a past Romanesque medieval church. This saint is featured on the main altar in gilt silver, crafted in the 15th century by an unknown master. In the saint’s left hand is a scale model of the Romanesque church which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1667 and he is flanked by two kneeling angels. This statue was the only one which survived the fire of 1706.
Church of St. Blaise
In front of the church is another of Dubrovnik’s landmarks, Orlando’s column. Unfortunately, this was under renovation and closed off by metal fencing. This tall and slender stone flag column is decorated with a depiction of a medieval knight, Orlando, who according to legend, helped the people of old Dubrovnik defeat invaders in the middle ages. A monument to freedom, it details the help aquired to remain a free trade city-state and acts as a flag holder which displays the Libertas (freedom) flag as well as the St. Blaise festival flag. An interesting note about the statue; the knight’s forearm is 51.25 centimeters long, the standard Dubrovnik measurement for fabric, where local merchants were measuring, cutting and selling fabric.
Orlando’s Column (under construction)
Orlando’s Column courtesy of justdubrovnik.com
A little further down the Stradun, we headed into the Franciscan Church. Much as I wanted to visit the Monastery and Museum, I decided to wait until the next morning as I thought that seeing another monastery was probably not what my husband had in mind. The church was a good compromise as the afternoon was nearing its end and he was anxious to start happy hour and revisit Lady Pipi restaurant which was near this location.
A large complex, consisting of the church, monastery, library, and pharmacy, belonging to the Order of the Friars Minor, was built in 1317, but with its construction taking centuries to complete. The original church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1667 and much of the complex was rebuilt several times with the only remaining element being the decorated portal which overlooks the main street.
Franciscan Church
Franciscan Church
The Baroque interior was stunning as we entered through the main doors with its diagonally patterned tile floor and and large, gilded chandelier. The main altar contained a statue of Christ between four twisted marble columns and the five side altars were sculpted by Venetian Giuseppe Sardi between 1684 and 1696. An important side note, we learned, is that poet Ivan Gundulić is buried in the church.
Continuing our explorations, we decided to see more of what lay beyond the gates. A short walk past the Pile Gate, through which we had entered earlier on our return, brought us past the Amerling Fountain, the overlook for the Beach Sulic, which we would later realize was the place Cersei Lannister on Game of Thrones would stand, the Imperial Hilton Hotel and almost to the Church of St. Elizabeth, a small chapel. Heading back to the Old Town, we wandered through its streets and alleyways appreciating the architecture and its beauty.
Amerling Fountain
Overlook for the Beach SulicSites outside Dubrovnik’s Pile Gate
Imperial Hilton Hotel
Chapel of St. Elizabeth
Dubrovnik’s Pile GateOld Town SitesOld Town SitesOld Town SitesOld Town Sites
At this point, my husband was truly at the end of his touring mode…but I spotted the Church of the Holy Annunciation. Promising only a quick peek, I ducked in and inspected the Serbian Orthodox church which was constructed in 1887. Though I was only inside for a few moments, I learned later that this impressive church has a huge collection of icons dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries within its museum and an impressive library containing over 12,000 volumes, including a gospel in Russian printed in Moscow in 1805.
Church of the Holy Annunciation
Finally, it was time for the long walk up the stairs for our grilled seafood platter “A La Pipi”!
“It’s about time!” said my husband. Long days definitely lead to good things!
Old Town at Night
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But not because I was a Game of Thrones fan…(that would come later!)
Having seen friends’ pictures and read many travel articles, it appeared to be beautiful, intriguing and full of history and it was exciting to hear that my airline was planning to fly that route starting in the summer.
Booking our flight for the end of September, I had three and a half months to plan, but fear suddenly gripped me! With ten days at our disposal, I wasn’t sure how to tackle the trip. We were going to fly into Dubrovnik, but what other cities could we fit into our itinerary? I stared at the map of Croatia, but really had no clue how far each city was from the other and how easy it was to get to and from.
After endlessly putting off the task of booking my hotels, I realized that in order to find a place fitting of our needs, I needed to figure it all out…and quick! Thankfully, my friend Kris had just returned and had posted about his trip on Facebook. Giving him a call, I quizzed him on his itinerary and rattled off a list of questions, trying to get the gist of what would work for my husband and I.
As we talked, I scribbled down some quick notes and I formulated a plan. But would it work?
Kris thought so.
The plan was as follows:
Day 1: Depart New York’s JFK International Airport
Day 2: Arrive Dubrovnik
Day 3: Drive to Kotor, Montenegro, explore and return to Dubrovnik
Day 4: Drive to Split, Croatia with a detour to Mostar, Bosnia
Day 5: Split, Croatia
Day 6: Depart Split, via ferry, for Hvar, Croatia
Day 7: Hvar, Croatia
Day 8: Depart Hvar, via ferry, for Dubrovnik
Day 9: Dubrovnik
Day 10: Depart Dubrovnik
With an itinerary in place, it was time to hit Airbnb and figure out where to stay. After a long day of perusing the site and countless emails and calls to my husband, that all finally fell into place, one city at a time. Why Airbnb? There are some really nice hotels in each city, however, I learned that some of the nicest places were on the Airbnb sites, especially within the walled city of Dubrovnik and Diocletian’s Palace in Split, where larger hotels are not located due to each’s confines. While it would have been nice to stay in Lapad (near Dubrovnik) and have views of the sea and a swimming pool, would we really have time to enjoy a refreshing swim? With so much to see and do, I seriously doubted it! Plus, every time we wanted to head to town, we would have had to catch the bus or call Uber.
Next came transportation. Cars? Buses? Ferries? Yes, No and Yes. I decided that we would rent a car upon arrival and drive to Split where we would drop it off at the airport. Using Uber to get to our Airbnb in Split, we would be on foot and then utilize the ferry to Hvar and then back to Dubrovnik.
Ok…were we ready?
I hoped so!
The only thing left was to figure out what attractions we wanted most to see in each city and then…
Wait until September!
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