Germany – Snapping The Globe

Along the Rhine-Bacharach

There are so many beautiful towns along the Rhine River in Germany. But how do you decide which one to visit?

You call a friend who is from there for suggestions!

So, after my friend, Annie, gave me a list of her favorites, I decided on the town of Bacharach. Only a few trains stops up the river, she described it as charming with a very German feel and consisting of an upper town with amazing views of the valley below and a small town beneath. At this time of year, there would not be many tourists…the most enticing bit of information!

After a long night of transatlantic travel, I was tired, but I decided to head right out to make the most of the shorter hours of the fall season.

It took a few minutes to figure out my train ticket and which platform I was leaving from at the Mainz train station, however, I was soon on my way. Forty-five minutes (and a short nap) later, I was exiting Bacharach’s small station and heading into the lower town along the river.

*First views of Bacharach from the train station*

Walking along the main street, I found it to be extremely picturesque and quiet, which was both good and bad. Good that I did not have to fight for space along the small walkways and narrow streets, but bad that not a lot of the shops were open. Contenting myself with a bit of window shopping, I headed north towards the center of town, passing the Stadt Bacharach am Rhein, a city government office, and other buildings, all constructed in the traditional half-timbered style.

*Walking along Bacharach’s main street* (*Stadt Bacharach am Rhein bottom, middle photo*).

*Hotel Kranenturm, an historic hotel built into and alongside the Kranenturm tower* *and city walls.*

Kirch St. Peter in Bacharach, the town’s Catholic church, was open, however, I decided to bypass instead to make the ascent to the upper town first. Taking the stairs behind the church, I began the long climb, pausing every so often to take a breather and take in my surroundings. Views of the nearby hillsides offered ancient crumbling walls, old towers and lovely perspectives of the town below.

*Stairs to Werner chapel, castle and upper town.*

Eventually, along the long, steep staircase, I came upon the Ruine Wernerkapelle. The Werner Chapel was a major landmark in Bacharach and was erected after the murder of a boy called Werner. The fury over the murder resulted in riots and subsequently, the deaths of forty other people. In 1287, work began on the chapel to commemorate Werner’s memory and to offer a place of prayer for those making pilgrimages to his grave site. Sadly, the beautiful chapel was destroyed in the War of the Grand Alliance in 1689 and only the crumbling ruins remain.

Continuing my climb, the stairs transitioned from hard stone to packed earth, littered with fallen leaves and twigs causing me to carefully place my footing with each step. Breathing heavy and tired, I finally encountered a stone archway and a another set of steps leading to Burg Stahleck, the historic castle dating back to the 12th century. Now housing the Bacharach Youth Hostel, it consists of half-timbered houses, romantic courtyards, towers and a cozy wine bar with stunning views of the Rhine Valley.

After winding my way throughout the property, I headed to the small restaurant, grabbed a bottle of Bitburger beer and sat in the courtyard, watching the cruise boats navigate the river below. The beer was a much needed refreshment but after a night of little sleep, I had to fight the urge to have another lest I succumb to the longer sleep I desperately needed…plus, I still had much to see in the lower town!

Descending the seemingly never-ending staircase, I finally reached St. Peter’s church (est. 1230) once again. Thankfully finding it unlocked, I ventured inside, admiring the rich ornamentation and beautiful interior in the early French Gothic Style. While not as ostentatious as those in Italy or Central and South America, what I admired most was the beautiful organ and the brightly colored capitals on the columns.

Heading west behind the church, but still in the lower town, I found myself strolling along small pathways next to a narrow waterway. Admiring the flowers that grew along the trail and the beautiful old homes, I finally found the Steeger Tor, the wooden tower built in the 14th century at the western corner of the city’s fortifications. The Steeger Tor has retained its original roof and is constructed in the half-timbered style seen throughout the city. Covering the Blücherstraße, cars are still allowed to transit through its open base.

After a string of cars had passed, I carefully walked though the opening and then made my way up to the hillside planted with rows of grapevines winding their way along the wired supports. A dusty path led me to the Postenturm, which once acted as a defense tower in the northern wall of the town and was restored as a water reservoir in 1899. Now solely an observation tower, the slate quarry stone spire allows visitors to climb to its head for incredible views of the upper and lower towns and the surrounding countryside.

*Bacharach’s fields of grapes which yield their famous wine*

After my visit, I continued back down the hillside and encountered a cute grey cat who jumped down from its perch to lead me to the way back to the lower town. Wandering the small cobblestone streets, I discovered many interesting sights…an alleyway filled with umbrellas, the Virgin Mary tucked behind a small arched window, a wishing well and a garden of zebras…before finding the Münzturm.

*View of the Postenturm from the lower town.*

The Münzturm, an historic tower, is well known throughout the region as the location that Swedish troops entered to invade the city during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648). Built in the 14th century, it is also known as the Mint Tower or the Coin Tower because of its location near the Palatinate mint on Oberstrasße. As with the Steeg Tor, cars can utilize the narrow opening at the bottom to enter the city and a staircase on the southern side leads to the city wall. Still in use today, the upper floors serve as a guild tower, archive and meeting room for the Wine Guild Bacchus Zechgesellschaft zu Bacharach und Steeg von 1328.

*Münzturm, also known as the Mint Tower or the Coin Tower.*

While my plan had been to have a bite to eat at the medieval, half-timber Altes Haus, I discovered that it did not open on this particular day until 6:00 p.m. Not wanting to return to Mainz in the late evening, I decided to take a few photos of the place that was immortalized by Rhine poets and the setting of many films. This famous restaurant was built in 1586 but an inscription on the house states that its beginnings date back to 1368.

Continuing on with my explorations, I headed back toward St. Peter’s Church, taking a left on Marktstraße. Here, I discovered yet another historic tower, the Marktturm.

This tower was well known for the annual Bacharach wine market that took place between the tower and the church during the 15th and 18th centuries. During the 18th century, it also functioned as a prison, during the 19th century, it housed the community bell and in the 20th, a wine tavern. Escaping damage during World War II, it was restored in 1910 and today it is used as a private residence. Part of one of the best preserved city fortifications in the Rhine Valley, you can also access the city wall from a staircase on the left-hand side.

Passing beneath the Marktturn, I headed to the pathway outside the city walls for a different perspective. While I did not walk along the immediate river front, I could see numerous boats traversing the waters and a couple parked at the river’s edge. I knew there were boats that could take me all the way back to Mainz, but I was not sure of the schedule or the embarkation and disembarkation points. Instead, I walked along, passing the Church of St. Nikolaus and the Customs House while making my way back to the train station. What I later learned was that it has been said that once upon a time, kings from around the world would only drink Bacharach wine. Being a major player in the wine industry, the sales and the collected customs duties, in this exact building, made Bacharach an extremely wealthy town.

*City entrance and city walls. Alternate view of the Kranenturm hotel which is built into the city wall and tower.*

While there are many beautiful towns throughout this region, Bacharach is definitely one that warrants the effort for those desiring to be transported back many centuries. Definitely not a large city, but I would still say that Bacharach is still a rich one. Rich in its history and rich in that it is one of Germany’s true treasures in the Rhine Valley.

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Burg Stahleck

https://www.diejugendherbergen.de/jugendherbergen/bacharach/
Address: Oberstraße
1, 55422, Bacharach, Germany
Hours: Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, 0930-1200, Closed Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday
Admission: not open to the public

Kirch St. Peter in Bacharach-Evanglische Kirchengemeinde Vierthaler

https://www.bacharach.de/a-ev-kirche-st-peter
http://www.bacharach.de/german/code/stadtrundgang/pg7.html
Address: Blücherstraße 1, 55422 Bacharach, Germany
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Ruine Wernerkapelle

https://www.romantischer-rhein.de/en/a-wernerkapelle
Address: 55422 Bacharach, Germany
Hours: 0900-1800
Admission: free

Steeger Tor

https://www.bacharach.de/a-holzmarktturm-steeger-tor
Address: Holzmarktturm, Blücherstraße, 55422 Bacharach
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Postenturm

https://www.bacharach.de/en/a-postenturm
Address: Postenturm, 55422 Bacharach, Germany
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Münzturm

https://www.bacharach.de/en/a-muenzturm
Address: 55422, Auf d. Munze, 55422, Bacharach, Germany
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Altes Haus

https://www.facebook.com/alteshausbacharach/?rf=108299185928746
Address: Oberstrasße 61, 55422, Bacharach, Germany
Hours: Thursday, Friday, Monday, 1800-2300, Saturday and Sunday, 1230-2300, Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
Admission: free, prices vary per order

Marktturm

https://www.regionalgeschichte.net/mittelrhein/bacharach/kulturdenkmaeler/stadtbefestigung.html
Address: Markstrasse 1, 55422, Bacharach, Germany
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

A Christmas Trio

Every year, I look forward to my layovers in December.

I bid layover in cities that are known for their outstanding Christmas markets. Covid put a damper on this tradition for a couple of years, but this year, markets were back in full swing and I had a trio to visit.

Brussels was the first on my schedule and I remembered fondly purchasing beautiful lace ornaments many years ago at the market in the city center. Setting out in the early afternoon to get a leg up on the crowds, we headed towards the Grande Place, but first wandered into the Les Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, the glass roofed arcade filled with cafes, theaters and luxury stores. Having the distinction of being the first covered shopping arcade in Europe, it attracts hundreds of visitors daily wishing to experience its beautiful architecture and unique shopping opportunities. Rather than wait for the market to purchase some of the lace ornaments I was seeking, I found some here with Christmas motifs, in the event that I did not encounter them later. The gallery was bedecked with garland, lights, Christmas trees and Santa figures, making us excited for what was to come.

Making our way into the Grande Place, we found Christmas trees both in the square and on the balcony of City Hall, but our main focus was on the life-sized nativity in the center of the square. We joined the queue of fellow visitors, lining the fenced in area to gaze upon the holy scene which depicted the birth of Jesus Christ.

Exiting the Grande Place, we followed the path of small huts erected for the occasion which offered sweets food items, drinks and a variety of gift items. My favorite hut, however, sold smoutbollen, fried donut balls coated in powder sugar, which reminded me of the beignets I usually purchase when I visit my Louisiana home.

After our snack, we headed to Place Sint-Katelijine (Place St. Catherine), an area I am well familiar with as our layover hotel was once located very near and known for its Church of Saint Catherine, the beautiful Victorian church which I wrote about in the past (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=5577).

While I had not been extremely impressed (except for the smoutbollen) with the market offerings or the markets appearance near the Grande Place, it was now growing dark and this is what I came to Brussels to see!

*Place Sint-Katelijine Christmas Market*

Two long lines of lighted Christmas huts stretched out before us, ending at the giant red-lighted Ferris wheel. There was a wide array of offerings for purchase and as we shopped our way to the end of one row, we stopped just short of the Ferris wheel to watch the Christmas carol singing moose and then to enter the warm and welcoming champagne bar! Now, I rather fancy myself a beer-kind-of-girl, but joining my friend for some champagne and conversation while we warmed ourselves near the wood-burning stove seemed so festive and I just wanted to stay here all night! However, all good things must come to an end, so we shopped our way back the way we had come and set out to find a nice welcoming Belgian restaurant for dinner while admiring the beautiful Christmas lights above the Brussels’ streets.

*Place Sint-Katelijine Christmas Market* *and Champagne Bar*

My next trip was a few days later to Madrid, Spain. I had read up on the city’s markets and was excited to learn that our hotel overlooked a very nice one just across the street in the Plaza de Espana. While I was excited to experience this particular market, the one that I had my eye on was located in the Plaza Mayor, which I had learned offered nativity sets and individual nativity items. As a collector of unique nativity sets, I was excited to find a special item from Spain.

The market in Plaza de Espana was fairly busy in the afternoon and I was tempted to take a seat in the Paulaner Biergarten for an afternoon beer. Instead, I perused the different stalls and checked out the Christmas tree before making my way on foot towards the Plaza Mayor.

Much to my surprise, I encountered a small market in the Plaza Santo Domingo, but so early in the month, only a handful of the small wooden huts were open. Continuing my walk, I happened upon the Plaza de Isabel II, with its giant metal Christmas tree decorated with red ornaments and a troop of Spanish dancers giving the onlookers a cultural treat.

*Christmas decorations and (a creepy) Santa in Madrid*

*Plaza de Isabel II Christmas Tree (day and night)*

Finally, after what seemed like miles of walking, I found the entrance to the Plaza Mayor. Still late in the afternoon, the lights were not yet illuminated, but I decided to make my way through the maze of red huts that filled the square. On the outskirts, there were many vendors selling wreaths, greenery and other Christmas décor, but each of the stalls in the interior, seemed to offer one of two things…nativity sets or Chinese junk. Indeed, I was in the market for a nativity set, but as I made my way from hut to hut, I realized that it was pretty much all the same type of figurines, in different sizes. I assumed that people purchased an initial set of a particular size and each year, purchased different pieces to add to their collection, beyond the basic setup of Jesus, Mary, Joseph, Kings, shepherds, angels and animals. With what was offered, you could create whole village scenes with running water and electric lights. While if you have the room for this and its your preference, this would be the place to find your yearly addition, however, I was not impressed with the artistry, suspecting that many of these piece were imported and not Spanish made. I didn’t give up, however, traipsing throughout the square, hoping to find an inspirational piece created in Spain, yet all I found from the vendors not selling small cheap toys, hats and odds and ends were the same resin figurines, while dodging children throwing firework poppers in my path and having to skirt parents with large strollers and visitors pushing their way through the crowd.

*Nativity Figurines in Plaza Mayor Christmas Market*

At six o’clock, the square was illuminated and I was happy to be able to see it lit up, bequeathing us all with a festive glow. Taking a quick selfie under the green Christmas tree, I headed out of the square towards Puerta del Sol. Here and there, along the way, I encountered some unique lights over the city streets and in the plaza, the golden lit Christmas tree as well as the lighted Royal Postal Service Building and its iconic clock tower.

There were so many people making their way into the plaza…police were monitoring the streets which were allowing only one-way foot traffic on some streets. Not wishing to remain in a situation, where there could be a potential problem with crowd control, I decided to make my way back home, passing by Plaza de Isabel II once again, but now with its large tree lighted in blue and red. Finally, at Plaza de Espana it was nighttime and it was lit up quite beautifully, with full \-sized lighted nativity figures and more people than I could have imagined filling the square and waiting for their opportunity to take a few turns on the ice skating rink. Seizing a few moments to appreciate the twinkling lights on the real fir Christmas tree, I decided that I had had enough of the crowds that day and it was time to retire to my hotel to rest and have a nice beer in the warmth of the lobby of my hotel, looking out on the throngs of shoppers and holidaymakers! In a few days, I would get the opportunity for the German Christmas market experience…this was the one I was most looking forward to!

*Plaza de Espana Christmas Market at night*

A few days later I was on my way to Frankfurt, Germany. I initially had grand plans of taking the train to Weisbaden and Frankfurt’s Christmas markets, but thankfully, I came to the realization that being a Saturday, all of these markets were going to be extremely crowded and it was best to be conservative with my shopping ambitions. Although I didn’t get much sleep on the airplane and only a couple of hours in my hotel when we arrived, I powered through to arrive in the nearby Mainz market during the early afternoon, first passing through the Schillerplatz which offered a small market fare with a few decorations. Though I longed to see the Mainz market lit during the nighttime hours, less crowds seemed to be a fair tradeoff by going early.

Well, I can tell you, if we had waited until the nighttime hours, there would have been no way to see what we wanted to see, purchase what we wanted to purchase or eat and drink what we wanted to eat and drink. Each booth had lines of people waiting for service and although we were able to buy our potato pancakes, candy coated almonds and gluehwein, it took a lot of perseverance and patience. I was lucky enough to snag my German beer steins quickly, but my little wooden German smoking men, took about a half hour and drinking my entire cup of gluehwein to make the purchase…same for my nativity set at the Kathe Wolhart store.

Still, it was magical, seeing the full-sized nativity, carousels, the six-tiered pyramid and other beautiful decorations. But after fighting crowds for three hours, we headed back to the hotel to meet our crew for happy hour.

A while into our cocktail enjoyment, someone looked out of the window and noticed numerous lighted vehicles passing in front of the hotel. Quickly, we all headed outside and were treated with a parade of lighted farm vehicles. We had no idea where they were coming from or where they were going, but seeing the effort that they put into lighting each one and their attempts to make each unique put us in the Christmas spirit and dissipated my disappointment in not seeing the Mainz Christmas Market lighted at night.

So there it was…a trio of Christmas markets this year, to get me into the spirit!

Next year, which cities will it be?

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Brussels Christmas Markets

https://christmasmarkets.io/belgium/brussels-christmas-market/
https://www.facebook.com/plaisirsdhiver.winterpret.winterwonders/
Address: Grand Place
Address: Place Sainte-Catherine 41, 1000 Brussels, Belgium

Madrid Christmas Markets

https://christmasmarketsineurope.com/madrid-christmas-markets/
Address: Plaza de Espana
Address: Plaza Mayor

Mainz Christmas Market

https://christmasmarketsineurope.com/mainz-christmas-market/

Just A Quick Look

Curiosity always seems to get the best of me!

Spying a church steeple down the street while walking back from the East Side Gallery in Berlin, I found my feet turning automatically in that direction.

Not wanting to miss something good, even though I was trying to make it back to my hotel for my dinner plans, I thought, “Just a quick look“.

Though the church’s interior wasn’t open for inspection, I did learn quite a bit about the property from the signboards posted at the front and back of the church’s property.

This was more than a church…this was about an entire square.

Architect August Soller, whose grave can be spied at St. Michael’s, was tapped to design the city’s third oldest Roman Catholic church. With plans completed in 1845, construction commenced six years later with much influence from Soller’s travels in Italy; mainly churches in Padua and Venice. So, when you spy St. Michael’s, as it was originally meant to be seen, with its view beyond the water feature (the remains of the Luisenstadt Canal) its conception from Venice’s churches along their waterways can be understood, as I was about to discover.

Completed in 1861, St. Michael’s served as a garrison church for Catholic soldiers due to its location near the border between Berlin-Mitte locality and Kreuzberg and was established by King Frederick William IV. After damage during World War II, it was partially reconstructed in the 1950’s. Now protected as a historical monument in Berlin, you can still see the wounds it sustained during the “Bombing of Berlin”, as you walk around the exterior of the church.

Though the church’s original walls and dome remain, the roof and the interior, including its organ, was destroyed. As I stood before the church’s entrance, it was amazing to be able to see the surviving dome through the portal window below the bell tower. Beneath the window is a mosaic depicting the Annunciation which surprisingly survived the bombing along with the church’s facade and entrance.

Long before the church’s completion, an idea to build a waterway through Luisenstadt was conceived. The idea was shelved until 1840, when the King of Prussia made the decision that a canal should connect the Landwehrkanal and the River Spree to reduce travel on the latter. With construction beginning in 1948, the first ship sailed along the waterway, passing St. Michael’s church in 1952, before turning at Engelbecken, the canal basin.

Despite the King’s determination in fulfilling the canal project, many years later, in 1926, the decision to fill in the Luisenstädt Canal was made due to noise, odor and lack of use. The Engelbecken, was then developed as a park under the guidance of landscape architect Erwin Barth. Though Barth’s main desire was to keep the canal, an idea not popular with the city’s government, he finally succeeded in developing the Engelbecken, surrounded by a green space. The canal basin became the Angel’s pool, a pond for swans surrounded by gardens.

Making my way across the Michaelkirchplatz, I stood on the raised viewing platform, anxious for a better look at the church, however, looking down at the Angel’s pool and the adjacent garden’s I anxiously searched for the steps leading to the area.

Cafe Am Engelbecken sits at the canal’s original water level, a relaxing spot to take in an afternoon tea or aperitif. Walking along the pool, lined with hedges and greenery, I glanced across at the picturesque and precise buildings which spread out along the perimeter. Pergolas hover above the path, awaiting the new growth of the warmer weather and I could only imagine how beautiful my walk would be during the summer when the Virginia creeper, climbing ross and clematis cling tightly to the structures. Arriving at the far end of the pool, it was then that I understood Soller’s idea of St. Michael’s position on a waterway, much like the Venetian churches.

This is the best view of St. Michael’s church!

The rose gardens, destroyed by the construction of the Berlin Wall, were excavated in 1993 by the Berlin Historic Gardens Conservation and a path runs down past the Oranienplatz between both Legiendamm and Leuschnerdamm. The path is highlighted by the Indische Brunnen, an eastern-style fountain also called the Hindu Springs. Although I exited at Oranienplatz, the path continues all the way down to Böcklerpark.

My detour to St. Michael’s church was definitely worth the eventual mad dash to my dinner plans. Very interested to learn about its and the surrounding area’s history, I now have another mission to see the interior of this historic church, which probably will not warrant, just a quick look!

I’m blocking off the whole afternoon!

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St. Michael’s Church and St. Michaelkirchplatz

Address: Michaelkirchpl. 15, 10179 Berlin, Germany
Hours: Park open 24 hours, church hours unknown
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Heinrich-Heine-Strasse and Kottbusser Tor stations

Movin’ On Up…To the East Side

The wall.

For you and me, it could be the barrier between our bedroom and the hallway.

For Germans, during the years between 1961 and 1989, it meant something vastly different.

The Berlin wall was a heavily guarded, concrete barrier, that divided Germany both physically and politically during the Cold War. Constructed by the German Democratic Republic, it remained until its demolition in November 1990 after the reopening of the border in 1989.

There are many of my colleagues who remember the division of their country and more importantly, when the wall came down. One friend tells me that each time she comes back to Berlin, she still get emotional when she sees the portions of the wall that remain, reminders of the years of separation from her family.

Today, the wall is a large draw for visitors to Berlin, eager to see the physical barrier that split families and friends. There are quite few locations where the wall can be seen in the city, including Mauerpark, Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin Wall Memorial, Schlesischer Busch Watch Tower, Potsdamer Platz and the longest remaining stretch at the East Side Gallery located on Mühlenstraße. Having visited the wall on a few occasions, it is always surprising to see how narrow it really was. I guess I always thought that its height and depth was what deterred people from scaling it and defecting to the other side, however, the guards and their machine guns were the real obstacle.

A few years ago, while on a tour bus, we had driven down Mühlenstraße and I was mesmerized by the brightly painted longest span of the wall. Why it had taken me so long to return, I am not sure, but on this trip to Berlin, I was going to take advantage of the sunny afternoon.

Arriving at the East Side Gallery, I decided to start at the part of the wall nearest to the Oberbaum Bridge, the iconic double decker bridge that crosses the River Spree (note to self, come check out this beautiful bridge on another trip to the city!).

At the start of the wall, there is the Berlin Wall Museum, located on the second floor of the Pirates of Berlin building, a great place to start your exploration of the history of the wall.

This museum, founded on the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie (November 2014), highlights why and how the wall was built and how Germans, both East and West, suffered; how this aberration changed people’s lives. There are many historical facts, exhibitions, film clips and photos and a portion of the museum that commemorates the dead who died on the wall during its twenty-eight years of existence.

Mikhail Gorbachev had announced the founding of the museum on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie in November 2014 in Berlin. A part of the museum is dedicated to him, as he is a trigger and guarantor of change and a peaceful revolution.

After my departure from the museum, I headed to the start of the wall and made my way down its length, taking the time to examine each of the one hundred and five murals painted by artists from all over the globe. Possibly the largest and longest lasting open-air gallery in the world, originated in 1990, the murals document the time of change when the wall fell and the jubilation that those affected by its presence experienced.

Though some of the paintings have suffered from exposure to the elements, the heritage protected landmark still draws over three million visitors every year. Work has been conducted to restore over a third of the murals and the effort continues.

Any visit to Berlin should include a stop at one of the remaining portions of the wall. The East Side Gallery is highly recommended for its artistic renditions of the joy felt around the world when the wall came down. Head first to the museum, walk the wall’s length and even check out the backside, filled with graffiti…the perfect place to enjoy both the river and an important historic landmark marking the reunification of Germany.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

East Side Gallery

http://www.eastsidegallery-berlin.com/
Address: Mühlenstraße 3-100, 10243 Berlin, Germany
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: free
Getting There: Nearest U-bahn stations, Warschauer Straße, Schlesisches Tor, Jannowitzbrücke

The Wall Museum

https://thewallmuseum.com/
Address: Mühlenstraße 78-80, 10243 Berlin, Germany
Hours: 1000-1900, daily
Admission: Adults, 12,50€, Students, 6,50€, Groups of 10 persons or more, 9,50€, Children up to 7 years, free
Getting There: Nearest U-bahn stations, Warschauer Straße, Schlesisches Tor, Jannowitzbrücke

A Cathedral? Not Really.

When walking along the river Spree, there is one building that dominates the skyline.

The Berlin Cathedral.

Though this amazing structure is commonly known as a cathedral, it actually only holds the status of a parish church for the Protestant community. Its beauty truly surpasses others within the once-walled city, but it is its history that really sets it apart.

Once the court church to the Hohenzollen dynasty, the rulers of Prussia and later, the German Emperors, this fifteenth century church had its humble beginnings as the chapel of the new royal city palace. As time progressed, it was deemed a collegiate church…a Domkirche (cathedral church). Though it was not the seat of the bishop or the central church of a diocese, it continued to be known as the Dom Cathedral.

From the early nineteenth century, the church was transformed from a court church into a neo-classical building by architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel. As time progressed and monarchy changed, several designs were proposed for a new church. By 1888, Emperor Friedrich Wilhelm II, finding the church too modest, insisted on a new design which would reflect on the monarchy’s power and prestige. After many designs were presented and rejected, it was architect Julius Carl Raschdorff’s palatial conception that was selected to compete with St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s in London.

The church’s construction began in 1894 and a short eleven years later, the new church was consecrated.

The Second World War was detrimental to the church with it sustaining much damage. After years of neglect, restoration work began in 1975 with a full-fledged rehabilitation beginning in 1993 after the fall of the Berlin Wall, which had divided the city since the war.

Churches are my passion and I have seen many during my travels. I have to admit, however, as you walk up to this one, it is one of the most impressive with its massive center dome and the smaller two flanking it. With its new golden cross (2008) glittering in the sun, the Lustgarten Park situated in the front, filled with tourists lounging in the sun and the fountain reflecting multicolored hues…it is certainly a place that would lure anyone of any faith.

After paying my admission, I donned my audio guide earphones and entered the the first stop on the tour, the Sermon church.

Wow.

There is not much more that I can say that can adequately describe the interior of the Sermon church. Filled with bright light emanating from the large windows and reflecting from the gilded adornments, the church is a sight to behold. My reaction was to turn three hundred sixty degrees in order to take in everything, from the sandstone pillars and figures of the four great reformers, Luther, Melanchthon, Zwingli and Calvin to the reliefs depicting the lives of the Apostles that decorate the walls above the statues. The mosaics with beautiful portraits of the evangelists were especially breathtaking.

The chancel takes center stage and my eye was initially drawn to it as it sits high above the congregation and is surrounded by glass paintings representing the Nativity, the Crucifixion and the Resurrection. The altar, made of white marble and onyx presides before the gilded Apostles’ Screen designed by Friedrich Schinkel. The beautifully carved pulpit to the left of the chancel is also particularly noteworthy.

Turning to the left side of the church, the great Sauer organ was galvanizing with its massive size and artistry. Installed during the building’s construction, it is the largest preserved organ in its original state and is considered to be the largest in Germany with 7269 pipes and 113 registers.

The main focus, however, was the gilded cupola with its large windows and colorful mosaics near the apex. The second dome on the site, after Emperor William II deemed the first too small, is the highlight of the Sermon Church with a height of 225 feet and a diameter of 100 feet. Standing in the center of the church I admired the best view of the dome…absolutely mesmerizing!

Venturing outside of the Sermon church’s main area, I took notice of the crypts located under the organ gallery. Though there are many others within the cathedral, these are the burial sites of Kurfürster Friedrich Wilhelm, Elector of Brandenburg, his wife Kurfürstin Dorothea, German Emperor, Friedrich III and Kurfürster Johann Cicero, Elector of Brandenburg.

Opposite the organ gallery, I ventured into the Baptismal and Matrimonial Church. The entrance, flanked by ornate sarcophagi and created by sculptor Andreas Schlüter, led to a barrel vaulted church. This more intimate space, was adorned by an altarpiece, The Outpouring Of The Holy Spirit, considered to be one of the most significant pieces of artwork in the cathedral and an organ built by the Potsdam company Alexander Schuke, the first to be built after the Second World War.

Heading upward on the Imperial Staircase, I walked slowly, inspecting the multicolored marble and the stone from the Lahn region used in construction as well as the unique candelabra and ceiling crowns. Adorning the ceilings and wall spaces are paintings displaying stories from the life of Jesus Christ and parables. Take note of the “Nazareth” painting hanging opposite the staircase. The original, by Albert Hertel, was lost during the war, however, this reconstruction was painted by Brandenburg restorer and painter Ekkehard Koch.

On the upper level, there is a museum which offers an architectural history on the cathedral with large scale models of wood and plaster. Many of these show some of the original designs by Friedrich Stüler, which were never realized.

Heading higher…270 steps…I was able to lay my eyes on some of the best views of Berlin from the dome. Fascinating statues lined the wide balustrade and I could see famous landmarks such as City Hall, the Humboldt Forum, Museum Island and the television tower.

My final stop was on the lower level of the cathedral, which is the burial place of the Hohenzollern dynasty who ruled Prussian since the Middle Ages and the German Empire from 1871 until 1918. Though the most important kings and emperors are buried near their favorite castles in Berlin, the immense space is lined with beautifully carved tombs and statues from the influential family.

My visit completed, I made my way from the cathedral back into Lustgarten Park. Facing the building, I stopped and gazed up at the domes, my eyes drawn to the spot where I had stood just before. Equally impressive from the outside and the inside, the Berliner Dom is one of the most stunning churches I have visited. An amazing place of history and architecture, it ranks high on the lists of attractions in the once divided city. It now acts as a place which brings people together…a place of worship and a place of tourism.

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Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dom)

https://www.berlinerdom.de/en/
Address: Oberpfarr- und Domkirche zu Berlin, Am Lustgarten, 10178 Berlin
Hours: Monday through Friday, 0900-2000, Saturday, 0900-1700, Sunday, 0900-1200
Services: Sundays and public holidays, 1000, Communion Service and Children’s Service, Sundays and public holidays, 1800, Service with Sermon and Hymns, Saturdays, 1800, Vespers, Monday through Saturday, 1200, Midday Worship, Monday through Friday, 1800, Evening Worship (Thursdays as Evensong in English and German)
Admission: Adults, €7.00, Children, €5.00

The New Guard

Sometimes you set out to find landmarks. Sometimes they find you.

As I was walking across the river onto Unter den Linden, I came across an intriguing structure.

Drawn in by its classicist style fronted with a row of columns and a gable frieze, I walked closer to inspect the sandstone-colored building topped with the goddess of victory.

Stepping onto the portico, I peered inside the dimly lit interior, anxious to see what significance this building had.

In the center, illuminated by the light of an aperture above is a mother embracing her dead son.

The statue, Mother With The Dead Son, by Käthe Kollwitz is extremely touching in its simplicity, honoring those victims of war and tyranny in Germany.

Originally a memorial designed by Prussian master builder, Karl Friedrich Schinkel, his first work in Berlin, the New Guard (Neue Wache) building was designed to honor those who died in the Napoleonic Wars and the Wars of Liberation. The structure also served as a guardhouse for the royal guard until the end of the monarchy in 1918.

In 1931, a memorial for the fallen soldiers of the World War was created here by Heinrich Tessenow, however, it was severely damaged by bombings during the Second World War.

After restorations in 1960, the building has come to serve as a memorial to the victims of fascism and militarism. An eternal flame was placed in the center of the structure and in 1969, the remains of an unknown soldier and an unknown concentration camp prisoner were buried here, marked by a commemorative plaque.

Today, you can venture here any time of day to pay homage to those who gave their lives during wartime as well as inspect an important piece of sculpture. Try to visit on Wednesdays, when the Great Guard of Honor gathers in front of the memorial to march the length of the facade.

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Neue Wache

https://www.visitberlin.de/de/neue-wache
Address: Unter den Linden, 410117, Berlin
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: free

Under the Dome

Many wait for weeks to secure a reservation to the Reichstag in Berlin.

We talked our way in!

Let me explain…

A friend of mine, Vadim, showed me a historic photograph, taken on May 2, 1945 by Yevgeny Khaldei, of two Soviet soldiers raising the flag of the Soviet Union atop the Reichstag building during the Battle of Berlin on May 2, 1945. Regarded as one of the most recognizable images of World War II, I remembered seeing it before, but never realized that it had been taken up on the Reichstag.

Vadim, a Russian by birth, wanted to visit the site of this picture, an important point in Soviet history, symbolizing the victory of the USSR over Germany. Checking the Reichstag website and discovering that visits were allowed by reservation only, he also discovered that the only reservations available for the next day were much earlier than our scheduled arrival.

Deciding to fill out the reservation form despite not being able to make the time slot and applying for a party of five, he included a note explaining that we would not actually be arriving in Berlin until much later…”Would it be okay to use the reservation later in the day?” Though he received a confirmation, it was apparent that it was auto-generated and no one had actually read his comments.

Later in the day, we made our way to the Reichstag, confirmation in hand, not really expecting to be allowed admittance. Approaching a security official, we explained our situation and we were allowed us inside to speak to another official.

First hurdle down…our foot was in the door.

Relating our story once again, we were shocked when the official returned, after checking with another person of authority, and informed us that we would be allowed inside. YES!

“Passports please.”

What? No one told us that we needed to bring our passports! Explaining that we did not realize that passports were necessary, we offered our drivers licenses. Thankfully, this was acceptable!

Second hurdle down.

As the official checked off our names, it was apparent that Vadim had made up our birthdays (I love him…he thinks I am eight years younger!). Crossing off the registered dates, surprisingly, he corrected each and uttered no complaint…until…the last name. One of the women registered to visit was not present…instead, another had come in her place.

A look of frustration crossed his face and I think we all half-expected to be thrown out of the building. Again, he left the table to speak with his superior.

We all thought, “This is where he returns with a big, fat, German NO”. “Nein!”

As he returned to his chair, he looked down at his manifest, crossed out the erroneous name, wrote in the replacement and directed us to the security checkpoint.

We were in!

Now what? Honestly, I have to admit that aside from knowing that this was a historic building, we really did not know what we were going in to see. After ascending to the roof and receiving our complimentary audio guide, we headed out to the dome to find out.

The Reichstag building was opened in 1894 and was modeled after the Memorial Hall in Philidelphia to house the Imperial Diet of the German Empire. After being severely damaged by fire in 1933, the building was abandoned for its original intent, as the parliament of the German Democratic Republic (the Volkskammer) met in the Palast der Republik in East Berlin and the parliament of the Federal Republic of Germany (the Bundestag) met in the Bundeshaus in Bonn. The building was further damaged by air raids and during the Battle of Berlin in 1945, it was captured by the Red Army.

Although an attempt was made in the 1960s to refurbish the building, a full restoration was finally completed after the German reunification on October 3, 1990. At the culmination of the project, the building once again became the meeting place of the Bundestag.

As we entered the large dome which sits atop the Reichstag, we admired the 360-degree views of Berlin while ascending the steel ramps that curve upwards to the top of the dome. Our audio guides continued to give commentary, but changed from the history of the building to the surrounding landscapes and buildings in the city. At the top of the dome, the opening allows for ventilation and there is seating available for those wishing to take a rest and enjoy the views.

The main hall and debating chamber of the Bundestag could be seen through the glass enclosure beneath the mirrored cone at the center of the dome. This cone directs light into the Riechstag, increasing energy efficiency and giving visitors a view of the parliamentary proceedings when in action. Reservations can also be made to witness a pleinary session from within the chamber when available.

Visiting the Reichstag dome is something that all should try to accomplish while in Berlin. Although we were extremely excited that we were able to gain entry to this historic monument, I do wish that we had been a little better informed. One of the items of interest, that I realized later that we had missed, was the cyrillic graffiti left behind by Soviet soldiers after the seige in 1945. This historical defacing has been carefully preserved and can be seen during visits to the Reichstag.

I guess we will have talk our way in again on a future visit!

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The Reichstag Building

https://www.bundestag.de/en/visittheBundestag/dome/registration/245686
Address: Platz der Republik 1, 11011 Berlin, Germany
Hours: Daily from 0800 until 2400 with last admission at 2200. Closed all day on December 24 and after 1600 on December 31. Also, the dome will be closed from March 13-17, July 17-21 and from October 9-13 for cleaning and maintenance. The roof terrace will still be accessible.
Admission: free with admission (by reservation) every quarter of the hour
Registration requests must be submitted online with a complete list of participants. The following information is required for each person: surname, first name and date of birth. For those who have not booked in advance, you may register at the service center near the Reichstag Building. If any free spots are available, you will be issued a booking confirmation. You can also register to visit with the next two days. Registration requires first and last names and date of birth. Identification matching reservations will be required for admittance.
Getting There: Bus number 100 and the M41 both stop at the Reichstag. The nearest U-Bahn station is the Bundestag. The Reichstag is also a short walk from Berlin’s main rail station, Hauptbahnhof.

Remembering the Fallen

Several Soviet Memorials are located in Berlin, erected to commemorate its fallen soldiers.

As we drove through the city, on the way to our hotel, we passed one of the memorials, the Tiergarten.

A colleague of mine, of Russian descent, was very excited to see that the monument was not far from some of the other landmarks we had planned to visit later that day. Having been to Berlin a few times before, I was actually surprised to see that it was located just down the road from the Brandenburg Gate. Maybe I had seen it and did not realized its significance or maybe I was asleep during the bus tour, but I was excited that I would be able to visit something new and share it with someone that it meant something to.

After our visit to the Brandenburg Gate, we headed west on Strasse des 17 Juni (17 June Street) and found ourselves at the entrance of the memorial which is located in the Großer Tiergarten, a large public park and a place where Adolf Hitler had plans to build Welthauptstadt Germania. Impressively flanked by two Red Army ML-20 152mm gun-howitzer artillery pieces and two T-34 tanks, the notable monument, a curved stoa, is topped by a towering statue of a Soviet soldier, whose arm is in a position to symbolize the Red Army’s putting down of the Nazi German state. A Cyrillic inscription under the soldier translates into “Eternal glory to heroes who fell in battle with the German fascist invaders for the freedom and independence of the Soviet Union”.

My friend, reading as we walked, explained that the monument was erected to commemorate the 80,000 soldiers of the Soviet Armed Forces who died during the Battle of Berlin in April and May 1945. It was constructed in 1945, within a few months of the capture of the city, and built from stonework taken from the destroyed Reich Chancellery.

As we walked to the rear of the property, we discovered an outdoor museum which highlighted the memorial’s construction and offered a look into the city’s other memorials.

Though the memorial has special meaning to those such as my friend and the many who make pilgrimages from various Soviet countries, there are those, however, who still oppose the monument. The structure has suffered at the hands of vandals and has earned some harsh nicknames, such as “Tomb of the Unknown Rapist” which references one of the various crimes committed by the Soviet occupation troops.

The Tiergarten was a surprise for me. Not one of the major attractions of Berlin, I had not planned to include it in my day, however, I was excited to learn more through my visit with my Russian friend.

As we walked the property, admiring the tanks, a bunny hopped out from the bushes. A short while later, a fox surprised us as he emerged from the same bushes. Was the fox searching for the bunny? Though the fatalities of the war ended many years ago, this was a reminder of how things once were…when there were those who were pursued and killed…

Though there are two other Soviet memorials in Berlin, commemorating the fallen, Treptower Park and Schonholzer Heide, make sure to check out the oldest and most conveniently located…Tiergarten.

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Soviet War Memorial (Tiergarten)

https://www.visitberlin.de/en/soviet-memorial-tiergarten
Address: Straße des 17. Juni 4, 10557 Berlin, Germany
Hours: Open 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Brandenburger Tor

One of the most recognizable landmarks in Europe is the Brandenburger Tor, or Brandenburg Gate.

The first time I ever laid eyes on this magnificent piece of architecture, it confirmed my presence in Berlin. Yes, I knew I was in Berlin, but standing before it…well, I was really there!

Built between 1788 and 1791 on the orders of the Prussian King, Frederick William II, by Carl Gotthard Langhans, it was the key entry point to the city, marking the start of the road from Berlin to the town of Brandenburg an der Havel, the former capital of the Margraviate of Brandenburg.

Located in the western part of the city center, the gate stands near the Reichstag building, which houses the German parliament, and is the monumental entry to Unter den Linden, the renowned boulevard of linden trees which leads to the Royal City Palace. Though most of Berlin was destroyed at the end of the war, the iconic gate survived, albeit with heavy damage. Though East and West Berlin attempted restoration, once the wall was erected, access to the gate, located in East Berlin was eliminated.

As you stand before the gate, its most notable feature is the Quadriga, the statue which depicts the goddess of victory driving a chariot pulled by four horses. The statue remained in place for over a decade before Napoleon decided that the statue be dismantled and shipped to Paris. Remaining in storage until 1814, it was returned to Berlin when Paris was captured by Prussian soldiers following Napoleon’s defeat. When the statue was remounted atop the gate, one change was made…an iron cross was added to represent Prussia’s military victory over France. During Berlin’s communist era, the cross was removed, but restored in 1990 during the unification of Germany. Today, the Quadrica grandly sits atop the gate for all to admire.

Many historical events have also taken place at the Brandenburg Gate.

When Hitler came to power in 1933, he was treated to a torchlight procession through Berlin which passed under the gate en route to the presidential palace.

Thirty years later, in 1963, after the Berlin Wall was erected, former U.S. President John F. Kennedy, delivered one of the most famous addresses of his presidency, to a crowd of more than 120,000 gathered near the Brandenburg Gate. Most people remember this speech for Kennedy’s one phrase, “I am a Berliner” as they do for former President Reagan’s speech, also at the Brandenburg Gate, where he challenged Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev to “tear down this wall” in 1987.

Today, you can view a commemorative plaque which lies across Eberstrasse, which was unveiled at the 25th anniversary of Reagan’s historic address urging for peace.

Although there are many landmarks that I have visited throughout Europe… London Bridge, the Eiffel Tower, Roman Coliseum, the Leaning Tower of Pisa…I have never been moved by one so much as this, remembering its historical significance. Counting the bullet holes still remaining in the columns, the feelings that it invokes is indescribable. Though the Brandenburg Gate has undergone restoration over the years, it appears that construction of the subways line beneath the city and the heavy trucks that regularly make deliveries nearby have caused more cracks to appear in this amazing structure. It is such a shame to think that one day, it might not be here.

Visit while you can…

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http://www.berlin.de/sehenswuerdigkeiten/3560266-3558930-brandenburger-tor.html
Address: Pariser Platz, 10117 Berlin, Germany
Hours: Open daily
Admission: free

Topography Of Terror

Though it came tumbling down in 1989, parts of the Berlin Wall still stand as a testament to the Cold War era.

One such stretch of the wall is located appropriately enough at the Topography of Terror, an outdoor and indoor history museum located on Niederkirchnerstrasse, on the site in which during the Nazi regime from 1933-1945, buildings housed the headquarters of the Gestapo and the SS. During Allied bombings in 1945, these buildings were destroyed and the ruins demolished after the war.

The Berlin Wall ran along the south side of the street, previously known as Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse and separated the American and Soviet zones. Here, adjacent to the Topography of Terror, the longest outer segment, still remaining, can be seen both from within the museum’s grounds and from the outside.

Exhibitions marked the museum’s beginnings on Berlin’s 750th anniversary in 1987. Shortly after, the cellar of the Gestapo headquarters, a gruesome site of torture and execution, was located and excavated. The site, covered at the time with canopies, was turned into an open-aired memorial and museum and detailed the history of repression under the Nazis. Today, a permanent open-aired museum informs visitors of the timeline of the Third Reich, from Hitler’s rise, to the fall of Berlin, through the use of statistical information, anecdotal clips, photographs and architectural remnants.

Both fascinating and sobering at the same time, the Topography of Terror is worth a look, if not for the information, but for an up-close and personal look at the historical barricade.

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Topography Of Terror

http://www.topographie.de/
Address: Niederkirchnerstraße 8, 10963 Berlin, Germany
Hours: Daily, 1000-2000
Admission: free
Note: Additional sections of the Berlin Wall can be seen at and near the Potsdamer Platz.