The Musical Wall

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Murals, graffiti, sculptures…

Having studied art and architecture, they always draw my interest. There are days, during my layovers, that I just wander around taking pictures of public art…and it is never in short supply in any city throughout the world.

One fall afternoon in Milan, I was walking the streets in the Navigli Canal area. Trying to locate another particular point of interest, I spotted something else marked on Google maps.

The Macan Music Wall.

Not quite sure what this would reveal, I headed in that direction.

Each year, in addition to Milan’s famous Fashion Week, the city also hosts Music Week, a pace of concerts, showcases, meetings, workshops, webinars, exhibitions and presentations. During Milan’s 2018 Music Week, the event was kicked of with the inauguration of the Macan Music Wall, a public artwork dedicated to music, unveiled, commissioned and gifted by Porsche Italia to the city.

This imposing mural covers the façade of a building in via Conchetta (corner of via Troilo) and was created by the collective of urban artists Orticanoodles and the Leagas Delaney agency. Entitled “Music Is A Never Ending Journey”, the work depicts a gigantic beating heart placed at the center of a musical cosmos. Around the heart, planets and constellations inspired by different genres and musical instruments rotate, as in a star map. Painted with special fluorescent paints, it is even visible during the nighttime hours.

To make your visit even more special, pop your Airpods in and tune to Porsche Italia’s Spotify channel, entitled “Music Is a Never Ending Journey” for the full experience!

While this is not a major attraction, it was interesting to discover while in the area and I think that it would be quite the spectacle to behold at night!

Many more art installations, sculpture and graffiti can be found the in Navigli Canal area, including the Wall of Dolls ( https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=6924). Put on your walking shoes and start searching!

Wall of Dolls
Navigli Canal area art installations, murals and grafitti

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Macan Music Wall

  • Address: Via Conchetta, 8, 20136 Milano, MI, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Tram 3, L.go Mahler stop. P.TA Genova FS metro stop, walk 16 minutes.

Alley Art

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Graffiti…I love it!

São Paulo’s Batman Alley has been my highlight with stairwells, walls, doorways and sidewalks filled with stunning murals and artwork. While I have seen some great graffiti over the years, I have never experienced anything like Batman Alley in all of the cities I have visited.

Until I set foot in Rapid City.

As I stepped outside of my hotel in the fifteen degree morning, my only focus was the drive ahead of me to the Badlands on snowy roads. Walking toward my car, hoping there was an ice scraper, I looked immediately to my left and noticed a bit of graffiti…and a sign.

Art Alley.

The first inhabitants of South Dakota left their marks in the form of petroglyphs. Today, artists leave their stories in the form of murals in Art Alley.

In the early 2000s, artists began to use the alley as their canvas. Since then, the area has flourished and has become a social movement and a place to spread messages. The Rapid City Arts Council is in charge of the space and permits must be obtained from them or from the building owner. Though not all buildings are available for painting, there is enough surface area between 6th and 7th Streets to provide tons of space for artists’ expressions and a place for tourists to see what the art scene in Rapid City is all about.

Situated next to the Hilton Hotel Alex Johnson and countless restaurants and shops, it’s easy to see while experiencing all that downtown Rapid City has to offer.

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Art Alley

  • https://www.artalleyrc.com/
  • Address:  Between 6th and 7th, and Main and Saint Joseph Streets, Rapid City, South Dakota
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Movin’ On Up…To the East Side

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The wall.

For you and me, it could be the barrier between our bedroom and the hallway.

For Germans, during the years between 1961 and 1989, it meant something vastly different.

The Berlin wall was a heavily guarded, concrete barrier, that divided Germany both physically and politically during the Cold War. Constructed by the German Democratic Republic, it remained until its demolition in November 1990 after the reopening of the border in 1989.

There are many of my colleagues who remember the division of their country and more importantly, when the wall came down. One friend tells me that each time she comes back to Berlin, she still get emotional when she sees the portions of the wall that remain, reminders of the years of separation from her family.

Today, the wall is a large draw for visitors to Berlin, eager to see the physical barrier that split families and friends. There are quite few locations where the wall can be seen in the city, including Mauerpark, Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin Wall Memorial, Schlesischer Busch Watch Tower, Potsdamer Platz and the longest remaining stretch at the East Side Gallery located on Mühlenstraße. Having visited the wall on a few occasions, it is always surprising to see how narrow it really was. I guess I always thought that its height and depth was what deterred people from scaling it and defecting to the other side, however, the guards and their machine guns were the real obstacle.

A few years ago, while on a tour bus, we had driven down Mühlenstraße and I was mesmerized by the brightly painted longest span of the wall. Why it had taken me so long to return, I am not sure, but on this trip to Berlin, I was going to take advantage of the sunny afternoon.

Arriving at the East Side Gallery, I decided to start at the part of the wall nearest to the Oberbaum Bridge, the iconic double decker bridge that crosses the River Spree (note to self, come check out this beautiful bridge on another trip to the city!).

At the start of the wall, there is the Berlin Wall Museum, located on the second floor of the Pirates of Berlin building, a great place to start your exploration of the history of the wall.

This museum, founded on the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie (November 2014), highlights why and how the wall was built and how Germans, both East and West, suffered; how this aberration changed people’s lives. There are many historical facts, exhibitions, film clips and photos and a portion of the museum that commemorates the dead who died on the wall during its twenty-eight years of existence.

Mikhail Gorbachev had announced the founding of the museum on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie in November 2014 in Berlin. A part of the museum is dedicated to him, as he is a trigger and guarantor of change and a peaceful revolution.

After my departure from the museum, I headed to the start of the wall and made my way down its length, taking the time to examine each of the one hundred and five murals painted by artists from all over the globe. Possibly the largest and longest lasting open-air gallery in the world, originated in 1990, the murals document the time of change when the wall fell and the jubilation that those affected by its presence experienced.

Though some of the paintings have suffered from exposure to the elements, the heritage protected landmark still draws over three million visitors every year. Work has been conducted to restore over a third of the murals and the effort continues.

Any visit to Berlin should include a stop at one of the remaining portions of the wall. The East Side Gallery is highly recommended for its artistic renditions of the joy felt around the world when the wall came down. Head first to the museum, walk the wall’s length and even check out the backside, filled with graffiti…the perfect place to enjoy both the river and an important historic landmark marking the reunification of Germany.

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East Side Gallery

  • http://www.eastsidegallery-berlin.com/
  • Address: Mühlenstraße 3-100, 10243 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Nearest U-bahn stations, Warschauer Straße, Schlesisches Tor, Jannowitzbrücke

The Wall Museum

  • https://thewallmuseum.com/
  • Address: Mühlenstraße 78-80, 10243 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours: 1000-1900, daily
  • Admission: Adults, 12,50€, Students, 6,50€, Groups of 10 persons or more, 9,50€, Children up to 7 years, free
  • Getting There: Nearest U-bahn stations, Warschauer Straße, Schlesisches Tor, Jannowitzbrücke

Batman Alley

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

São Paulo can be a daunting city.

Roads are congested with traffic and the city is somewhat spread out, necessitating the use of the metro or bus system if you want to get around without the use of an automobile.

Unless I am traveling to a far part of the city, I do enjoy walking, especially in the neighborhoods south of Paulista Avenue.  One of my favorite areas is that of Cerqueira César with its beautiful old trees and rolling streets (though it can be hard on your feet).  I love the many eating establishments and boutiques, leading down to Rua Oscar Freire, the king of shopping areas, with its well-known (and expensive) stores offering up clothing, shoes and jewelry.  Another nearby area, Pinheiros has more of a funky vibe and many cool cafes and bars.

Walking through these two areas  brings me to my favorite place in São Paulo…no…not the Havaiana’s store. It is one that I think of when I picture the artistic side of the city…the neighborhood of Jardim de Bandeiras.  A bit more rustic, the area has many car repair shops, seedy bars and art galleries and sits right behind the Cemitério São Paulo Cardeal.  Doesn’t sound appealing?  What’s located there is, though…I promise!

It is here that my favorite attraction in São Paulo can be found…Batman Alley.

In 1980, a picture of DC Comic hero, Batman was painted on one of the walls in the alley.   Shortly thereafter, local art students began filling the adjacent walls with psychedelic and cubist influenced designs, a tradition that has continued throughout the years, though seemingly gaining more notoriety, most recently.

As you walk around and past the cemetery, a great deal of graffiti can be spotted on doorways and walls of the buildings and cemetery…some good and some…not so good.  But, as you near Batman Alley, the concentration becomes denser and more sophisticated.

The phenomenal thing about Batman Alley is that you can visit each time you are in São Paulo and when you turn the corner into the alley, you never know what you may find.  The art is continually renovated and looked after by the community and is always breathtaking.  Even though it is ever changing, you can still find Batman, so be sure to search for him.

From my first visit to this unique area, I have noticed a huge increase in visitors.  I’m not sure how I found this area, because years ago, it was not very well known to tourists and of course, takes a bit of doing to get there.  Today, I observed more foot traffic as well as Uber depositing those too time-pressed to walk.  There are many more cafes lining the streets adjacent to the alley and college-aged students and young professionals enjoying the sunshine and a beer or two.

The biggest difference, however, is in the alley itself.  In addition to the hordes of people attempting to photograph the exclusive artwork, there are the young girls attempting to get the most awe-inspiring pictures for their Facebook profile or for Instagram.  There are wanna-be photographers (some possibly real) and their wanna-be models complete with wardrobe changes and props, hoping that the exclusive location (if not the outcome of their work) will give both of their portfolios a leg-up.  So unique is the area that  I even observed a couple taking their engagement photos here!

Every wall is filled with amazing portraits, depictions and different styles of graffiti.  If you are lucky, you might even catch an artist (or two) at work.  Take your time, dodge the masses and be patient with the photo-shoots…Batman Alley is a place to relish…not rush, and, when you have finished walking through the alley, spend a little time walking the neighboring streets…many more interesting forms of artwork can be found, making the long walk to get there absolutely worth the blisters!

There are those who do not care for graffiti as much as others, however, keep this one thing in mind…Batman Alley is more than graffiti…it is an experience!

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Beco do Batman

  •  Address:  R. Gonçalo Afonso – Vila Madalena, São Paulo – SP, 03178-200, Brazil
  • Hours:  Never closes
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Closest metros, Fradique Coutinho and Sumaré.  About a forty minute walk from Oscar Freire.

Taking It To the Bank

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One night, while checking the recordings on my DVR, I noticed a title, Banksy Does New York.  Hmmm…spinoff of Debbie Does Dallas?

Discovering that my children were the culprits, they were questioned…who the heck was Banksy?

A world renowned contemporary artist, Banksy got his start spraying graffiti on the streets of Bristol, England.  Using a distinctive stenciling technique and dark humor, he has developed a cult-like following throughout the world.  His pieces, pop up randomly, sell for thousands of dollars and are amassed by well-known art collectors.

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But who is Banksy? Is he young or old?  Is he Caucasian or of African or Chinese descent?  He is short?  Is he tall?

Truth is…no one really knows.  Despite his popularity, Banksy has managed to remain anonymous.

IMG_6274Watching Banksy Does New York with my children, I was fascinated.  People scrutinize the internet in order to find his pieces, located on walls, streets, bridges and self-built prop pieces in cities throughout the world, before they are removed or defaced.  Some are just quick stencils on the sides of buildings.  Some have moving parts or actually move through the city, but most have strong political and social statements and almost all are quite humorous.

Imagine my delight to find that Banksy’s exhibit, Laugh Now, was being held at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Amsterdam while I was visiting.  No following websites or searching the streets to see a real authentic Banksy!  It was across town at MOCO for the price of admission.

Arriving at the museum, tickets in hand, we managed to avoid the lines that formed later in the day, thus proving what a major draw Banksy is.  The museum, located inside Villa Alsberg, a townhouse dating back to 1904, is the perfect yang to Banksy’s ying..the old meets the new.

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IMG_6263The displays were split between the upper and lower floors of the museum, and was combined with an exhibit on Salvador Dali on the basement floor.  Starting on the top floor, first stopping to admire his piece, Forgive Us For Our Trespassing on the staircase landing, we made our way through each of the themed rooms, Anti-capitalism, Laugh Now, Weaponry, There Is Always Hope and CCTV highlighting some of his classics like Laugh Now and Girl with Balloon.

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The entrance floor showcased some rescued pieces from the rubble of demolished buildings and other sculptural pieces (Rat-With-Umbrella, Cardinal Sin) as well as one of his famous Mona Lisa pieces and a huge canvas of the famous painting Beanfield which has not been displayed anywhere since 2009.

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Finally, moving on to the basement level, we encountered a final, large-scale Banksy…

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…as well as a small room with a film documenting his work around the world.

The Salvadore Dali exhibit was also very interesting with many paintings and his famous Mae West Lips Sofa, designed in 1937 and inspired by the lips of actress Mae West.  A large-scale melting clock is also on display…a tribute to his most famous painting, The Persistence of Memory.

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A gift shop is also located on the lower lever of MOCO selling t-shirts, books and other Banksy and Dali memorabilia.

If taking to the streets in search of a real Banksy is not in the cards for you, make sure to check out one of his exhibitions throughout the world.  Definitely worth seeking if you are a fan of graffiti art (like I am) and much easier than scouring the internet and walking through back alleys!  But, if the hunt is for you and you are in the Los Angeles or London, try and find some pieces still on the streets.

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&msa=0&msid=206833562822512571407.00049d25df7020948a997  http://blog.saatchigallery.com/finding-banksy-london

Let me know if you find any!

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Banksy Exhibition at the Amsterdam Museum of Contemporary Art

  • https://www.mocomuseum.com/banksy-amsterdam
  • Address:  Museumplein, Honthorststraat 20, 1071 Amsterdam
  • Hours:  1000-1800, daily through March 29, 2017
  • Admission:  Adults, 12.50€, Students, 10€, Under 16, 7.50€
  • Getting There:  The Moco Museum is situated on the Museumplein, opposite of the Rijksmuseum and next to the Van Gogh Museum.  From Amsterdam Central Station, take Tram 2 (direction Nieuw Sloten), Tram 5 (direction Amstelveen Binnenhof), stop Van Baerlestraat, Bus 170 (direction Uithoorn, Amstelplein) or Bus 172 (direction Kudelstaart), stops Hobbemastraat or Museumplein.  From train station Amsterdam Amstel, take Tram 12 (direction Station Sloterdijk), stop Van Baerlestraat.  From train station Amsterdam Zuid WTC, take Tram 5 (direction Centraal Station), stop Van Baerlestraat
  • About the Artist:  http://www.banksy.co.uk/