Forts – Snapping The Globe

Rediscovering Accra

There is nowhere like Africa.

The smells, the sights, the people!

I had missed being in Accra and was excited to show my friend around on her first sojourn. Once we had visited Black Star Square, a new locale for me, it was time to reacquaint with some “oldies but goodies” and see what else we might discover in the process.

When you walk around the city, you never know what you might encounter…fighting cows, someone’s laundry on a city bench or wall, someone sleeping under a tree, countless vendors hawking their goods. It is always a surprise and usually quite entertaining.

Dodging the hazards of the crumbling sidewalk, we ventured back along 28 September Road towards the Accra Arts Market. Speaking of not knowing what you might find or walk away with, this is the place. I was in search of face masks made of kente cloth and I knew exactly where to look, however, it is quite difficult engaging with the locals who invite you into their booths and remind you that it’s always “free to look”. Although I have countless masks and other oddities from my previous visits, I steeled myself to say no, however, my friend, on her first visit, couldn’t and walked away with a small table!

Purchases aside, we were able to reconnect with my old friend David, a drum maker who works in the market, share a soda and some great gossip!

Since the Kwame Nkrumah monument was a short distance away, I decided that we should stop in for a visit. Although I had been there before, it was nice to see it once again, even if the fountains were all drained and the property a bit unkempt. One of the most interesting things I discovered was in the museum at the back of the property. I had just finished watching the Netflix series, “The Crown” and remembered the episode when Queen Elizabeth danced with President Nkrumah at a ball in Accra in 1961. Right there on the wall was a photo depicting that particular event!

Leaving the property, I suddenly realized a major mistake we made upon our arrival. I really am out of practice… Never tell some of the locals your name unless you want a personalized ornament, shell, bracelet…the possibilities are endless. I understand that they are desperately trying to make a living, but once they had our name (in our case) they made bracelets for each of us with our monikers woven into it and wanted to sell it to us. Sadly, I didn’t have enough money for their asking price (which was quite high) and I felt bad for the amount of time spent making it, so…we came to an agreement of a purchase with a discount.

Continuing on, our next stop was the Holy Trinity Cathedral. This beautiful, stone church was completed in 1894 and was funded by the colonial British government. Fifteen years after its completion, it was deemed a cathedral by the Diocese of Accra.

Having lain my eyes upon many a cathedral in the world, I would say that this one was in no way equal, however, mass was just finishing and the priest warmly welcomed us inside and told us to make ourselves at home. The design was quite interesting with a dark, barrel-vaulted ceiling, a stone-walled interior and red velvet-covered pews, but it was stark in contrast to some of the Italian, Central and South American gilded temples I have set foot in. Nonetheless, it was nice to see the interior and even speak with some of the parishioners who were still gathered outside.

Heading into the Jamestown area, I was hoping that we could tour the Ussher Fort, one of the three forts that Europeans built in the region during the middle of the 17th century. This fort was built by the Dutch and was completed in 1649 and I suspected that we would be able to get some interesting photos in the bright, sunny day. Blaming incorrect internet information, we found the place to be closed, but were still able to sneak a peek at the interior through the barred doorways. Definitely another place for one of my future trips.

After stopping for a cold drink at the colorful Jamestown Cafe, we cut through the area that houses the Makola market. Having seen the market in operation during its peak operations during the week, we found the streets to be relatively deserted…Sundays are really a day of rest for many Ghanaians. A little further, after passing the monument to King Tackie Tawiah, (king of Accra from 1862-1902), we ended up on Independence Avenue with its countless vendors and local market. While Makola was quiet, we found a flurry of activity while hastening our own travels back to our hotel.

Hobbling back to my room, I suddenly realized how much ground we had covered that day. My friend was thrilled to have seen so many interesting sights and met so many interesting people. Me? I was just happy to rediscover one of my favorite African cities!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Accra Arts Centre

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Museum

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: 5 cedi (about .83 US)

Holy Trinity Cathedral

Address: High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Mass Schedule: Unknown
Admission: free

Ussher Fort

https://www.ghanamuseums.org/ussher-fort-museum.php
Address: 33 Prof. Atta Mills High St, Accra, Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Admission: Pupils from Primary to JHS 3, GH¢ 0.20 (about .04 US), SHS Students, GH¢ 0.50 (about .08 US), Tertiary Students with ID, GH¢ 1.00 (about .16 US), Ghanaian Adults, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Children, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Students with ID, GH¢ 5.00 (about .83 US), Adult Foreigners, GH¢ 10.00 (about $1.66 US)

Makola Market

Address: Kojo Thompson Rd, Accra, GH
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free

Just Like the Caribbean

Of all the things to love about St. Augustine, there is one that stands out.

Castillo de San Marcos.

I love visiting forts and have been to many throughout the world. What stands out to me about this particular one, however, is that even though it is poised on American soil, as you gaze upon its coquina walls, you can’t help but feel like you’ve been transported to the Caribbean.

Sitting on the shores of Matanzas Bay, the Castillo San Marcos National Monument was built over 340 years ago by the Spanish to protect the sea routes and the city. Builders were brought from Havana and workers retrieved the soft coquina stone from Anastasia island to construct the 26 foot high star-shaped walls over the course of twenty-three years.

Over time, the Castillo de San Marcos underwent many changes including the raising of its walls an additional six feet and the transference of ownership multiple times. While the Spanish instituted its construction, occupation was later transferred by treaty to the British and renamed St. Marks. The Spanish regained the fort in 1784 and changed the name back to its original moniker. In 1821, Spain sold the property to the United States, which renamed it Fort Marion (after Francis Marion) and appropriated it for use by the United States Army until 1899. In 1861, Florida, which had joined the Confederate States of America, gave the fort to the Confederates however, during the following year, the fort was taken by the Union. During this time, storerooms were converted to prison cells and Native Americans (among them Chief Osceola) were held captive in the fort as well as prisoners during the Spanish-American War in 1898. A year later, the fort was discontinued as a military base and named a national monument in 1900 with its original name being restored in 1942.

Over its illustrious history, Castillo de San Marcos has flown six different flags and today remains the oldest and largest masonry fortress within the continental United States. Definitely something to see outside of the Caribbean!

As I made my way to the ticket booth, I anxiously eyed the extensive line snaking out from the entrance. Only one hundred people were being allowed to visit the fort at one time, however, the line moved much quicker than I anticipated and I was walking past the drawbridge and into the fort’s courtyard before I knew it.

Much like other forts I have visited prior, there were two levels to explore…the lower level which housed many exhibits, prison cells and living and working quarters and the upper level which provided expansive views of the historic city, the bay and nearby Anastasia Island, whose natural elements helped to birth the structure. While I enjoyed wandering from from room to room on the lower level, it is always the upper levels that are most fascinating with it guard towers and ornately engraved cannons.

A popular tourist attraction in St. Augustine, the fort is run by the National Park Service and is well preserved and maintained. After your tour of this historical structure, spend some time walking along the waterfront area and enjoy the expanse of ground that fronts the fort. Take a deep breath, close your eyes and imagine…with its water views and palms trees, it certainly does feel as though you are in the presence of a great Caribbean citadel.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castillo de San Marcos National Monument

https://www.nps.gov/casa/index.htm
Address: 1 S Castillo Dr, Saint Augustine Beach, FL 32084-3252
Hours: 0900-1730 (last admission 1700), daily. Park grounds closed from midnight until 0530. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
Admission: Adults (16 years and over), $15.00 (good for 7 consecutive days). Children (15 years and younger), free if accompanied by adult. Maximum capacity of 100 visitors in the fort at any time.
Parking: The city of St. Augustine maintains a parking lot in front of the Castillo. Parking is $2.50 per hour and paid at automated stations which accept currency, credit and debit. The city’s parking garage is located a block away and provides additional shaded parking.

Forts and Beaches

How do you combine history with a day at the beach?

In Key West, you can take a boat tour to the Dry Tortugas. On this island, seventy miles west of Key West, visitors can tour Fort Jefferson, bask in the sun and snorkel the clear waters of the Caribbean. A long ferry ride for a short time on the island? Surely there must be a better way!

Fort Zachary Taylor State Park on the southern part of the Key West, also offers a historic fort and a beach.

Built in the mid-1800s, Fort Zachary Taylor was one of three strongholds built to defend the southeastern United States coastline. Completed in 1866, it played significant roles in both the Civil War and the Spanish-American War and played a key role in guarding the harbor of Key West.

The fort, built by Irish brick masons, is two and a half stories tall and forms a trapezoid. Towering over fifty feet about the water, it walls are five feet thick. Back in its heyday, the fort housed 198 cannons and 450 men.

Only a few cannons (and none of the men) are in existence today, but we were able to walk along the top of the walls, enjoying the ocean views and in the inner areas where the remaining cannons are housed. There are multiple displays detailing life in the fort and ammunitions in the areas which once housed the barracks and if you are lucky, you might spy one of the iguanas that call the fort home.

After we had made our way throughout the historic structure, we exited the gates and took the Tropical Hammock Trail leading to the Fort Zachary Taylor State Park beach, passing the remains of the old Blacksmith Shop along the way.

Our walk wasn’t a long one and we found a rocky beach edged with calm waters and palm trees.

After we secured two chairs and an umbrella, it was time for some relaxation. The beach was decent, however, paying more for two chairs and an umbrella than we had in the Greek Isles, was a bit surprising. In addition, we were also glad to have brought snacks as the concession stand’s pricing was on the high side. As far as a refreshing swim was concerned, the water was dark and cloudy and extremely warm. Taking some time to relax together and get some sun seemed to be the only benefit of our visit.

So, while we enjoyed the fort and beach’s close proximity to the other attractions in Key West, what we expected was not what we got. I had seen the pictures of Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas and maybe that skewed my perception of what we would be experiencing in Key West. Though I enjoyed the fort I felt we were a bit short-changed on the beach side.

Next time, I think I’m paying for that long ride to the Dry Tortugas!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Fort Zachary Taylor State Park

https://www.floridastateparks.org/parks-and-trails/fort-zachary-taylor-historic-state-park
Address: 601 Howard England Way, Key West FL 33040
Hours: 0800-sundown, daily
Admission: $6.00 per vehicle (2-8 people). Pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $2.50. Single-occupant vehicle or motorcycle (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $4.50.
Beach Amenities: Two chairs and umbrella, $30.00. Concessions and watersport rentals vary.

The Other Side of Havana

Old Havana is filled with history, architecture, landmarks, entertainment, restaurants and museums. One would be hard pressed to not find something that interests them during their visit.

There are many other parts of the city, however, that offer up some amazing items of interest, so making a priority to step outside of the box is essential.

When I had gone on my tour of the city, we had visited the areas of Vedado, Centro Habana and Habana Viejo and crossed through the tunnel to Habana del Este. There was a brief stopover at the Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and a drive by of Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana, the two fortresses that lay to the east of the entrance canal to the Bay of Havana. Since I didn’t have the time to properly explore each of these or the Military Exhibition, I decided that I needed to return on my last afternoon in the city.

But how would I get there?

Toying with the idea of taking the ferry to the Christ Statue, I decided that it would be a long walk to each of the fortresses and back. Remembering that I had seen many taxi cabs parked by the Plaza 13 de Marzo, I headed in that direction, thinking that cab fare would not be much just to cross through the tunnel from that point. Quickly locating a driver, I discovered that cab fare to the east side was a flat rate of only $10 CUC. A short drive ensued and I was dropped at El Morro.

After I paid the entrance fee, I made my way through a long, semi-arched tunnel. Exiting in the bright sunshine, I found myself on the colossal ramparts of the castle, complete with sweeping views of the the city across the waterway and the Battery of Twelve Apostles below. These twelve cannons, along with with the cannons on the ramparts, helped assist in the defense of the Havana Harbor and the city.

This iconic landmark was built between 1589 and 1630 and together with the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, on the opposite side of the bay, was a major part of the city’s defense fortification system. To safeguard the harbor from pirates and other invaders, a chain was strung between the two fortresses.

The fortress grounds are sprawling and contain several museums; Museo del Morro, Museo de la Navegación and Museo de Piratas. These museums display artifacts and items related to the castle’s history, the city’s maritime history and pirate folklore. The most stunning part of the complex, however, is the lighthouse which was built in 1846. The lighthouse was constructed to take the place of the watchtower that was destroyed by the British during their siege in 1762.

Hoping to enjoy the views of the fort and surrounding areas from a higher vantage point, I approached the lighthouse. Finding the door open, I ventured in and made my way up the curved staircase. As I neared the top, however, I heard a voice which appeared to be talking to another on a two-way radio. Thinking that maybe I was entering somewhere where I should not be, I quickly made my way back down and out of the structure. Having to be content to enjoy the lighthouse from the castle level, I also made my way through the exhibit which detailed lighthouses throughout Cuba. It is also interesting to note that El Morro once housed a school for lighthouse keepers.

Although it was still sweltering during the afternoon, I made my way around the fort, admiring the rusted cannons, central barracks, the old latrines and the small memorial, commemorating the 1762 siege, located between the two strong powder rooms in the northeast bastion. There was also a stairway which contained many clay vats leading to a hidden exit at the Star platform. These earthenware jars are called tinajones and were place there for the storage of the oil used in the lighthouse. Now empty, it was worth the descent for the lovely views of the water, the city and the Battery of the Twelve Apostles.

After a quick stop in the cafe for some much needed water, a walk through the vendor’s stalls and a walk around the grounds, I decided to make my way to the east and the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana. Known as one of the most complex and expensive defense systems in the Americas, it is also one of the largest.

Constructed in the 18th century with some of most advanced military defensive features, it was named after King Carlos III of Spain, who demanded a spyglass to see it from Madrid. He claimed that such a fortress, which cost so much, surely could be seen across the ocean!

Over the years, the fortress has been used as a prison, a storage facility and, more famously, as the command headquarters of Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara. After renovations were completed the early 1990s, different museums were opened within the complex including the Museo de Armas (Museum of Arms), Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara) and a museum of the history of the fortress.

Most famously, La Cabana is known for attracting thousands of locals and visitors each night to witness a tradition that began in the eighteenth century; the firing of the 9 o’clock cannon. Having heard the shot from my location in Old Havana each night, I had hoped to witness the spectacle at the fortress during my visit.

As I arrived in the late afternoon, after a short walk from El Morro, I was able to enter via the great drawbridge, which in turn, led to another bridge which crossed the now-dry moat. The innards of the fort was laid out much like a small city and I admired the repetitive framework. Making my way to the ramparts to admire the restored cannons and the excellent views of both the city and of El Morro, I marveled at the sheer size of this place.

Discovering the Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara), I explored the items of interest that were once in his possession, including the desk from which he made revolutionary decisions. Next door, I was welcomed by an elderly gentleman who was manning the International Book Fair, held here annually…a great place to visit, if you read in Spanish.

Out in the courtyard, I found the inimitable sundial which told me that it was around five o’clock, the time which everything begins to shut down around the city. Since no one was asking me to leave, I continued my explorations, but found the chapel and the Museum of Arms closed. Noting that vendors were setting up, I realized that they must do so each evening in anticipation of the crowds that arrive for the cannon firing. Although I walked around a bit more, I realized that the restaurants I had encountered were not open. I was tired, hungry, ready for a shower and nine o’clock was a few hours away. Besides, I wasn’t even sure how I was going to get home!

Stopping for a few more photo opportunities on my way out, I hesitated at the road. Should I turn right and head toward the Christ Statue and try to catch the ferry back to Havana or should I turn left and head back to El Morro where I might be lucky enough to find an empty cab? It was a tough decision because I really didn’t know how far I was from the ferry. Turning toward El Morro, I prayed for a passing cab. Some passed with patrons and an empty one did drive by, but I did not see it until it was too late to flag it down! Continuing down the road, I finally made it back to El Morro and as luck would have it, I saw an old Russian cab.

Now, I had ridden in many classic cars during my visit, but this type of car was one that I had maybe only seen during my trips to Moscow years ago; the Russian Lada. It wasn’t a very smooth ride back through the tunnel, but it certainly was unique! The little old gentleman driving put on “Mack the Knife” as he swerved, bumped and sped me back to Old Havana. It was seriously one of the funniest, yet terrifying moments I have ever had in a cab…and I take cabs in New York regularly! (Check out the video on Facebook, Snapping the Globe).

Finally, setting my feet on terra firma and still a bit shaky, I headed back to my Airbnb for my last night.

My last night to enjoy delicious Cuban food…

My last night to say admire the amazing architecture…

My last night to hear the cannon firing…

My last night to lay in bed and listen to the city outside my door…

My last night to enjoy my Airbnb host’s hospitality…

I realized that for all my uncertainty about taking this trip, I had found a place that rated in the top of my all-time favorite places! A place that I will certainly return in the future. After all, there were still many things to see within the city and so much outside of it!

Yes, Cuba…I am coming back!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro

Address: Havana, Cuba
Hours: 1000-1900, daily
Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)

Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana

Address:
Hours: 1000-2200, daily
Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)

Halfway Thru Havana

Three o’clock and thirsty.

There was still plenty of daylight and most attractions in Cuba did not close for a little while. I needed a plan of action that might include a frosty beverage!

Grabbing a seat on a rustic bench, I took a second to regroup.

Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio near the Revolution Museum caught my eye. I had just been near there and it meant a little backtracking, but there were many restaurants just around the corner and it would be nice to have a seat and something to drink.

Though the church was not open, I discovered that it sat on a pretty, yet tiny, colonial square, Plazuela de Santo Ángel. A lovely bronze statue of a woman holding court in front of the church captured my attention. She was dressed in vintage attire, holding a fan and appeared to have just left the church and was going to do her business in Old Havana.

Although there is a placard on the church wall which tells visitors about this woman, Cecilia Valdes, I had to wait until later to decipher who she was as it was written in Spanish. What I later learned was that this woman is the title heroine of a popular 19th century book which had a scene set at this location. The book has inspired operas, literary reiterations and a feature film and has been considered one of the most important novels detailing life in 19th century Cuba. You can also take note of the bust on the nearby wall of Cirilo Villaverde, the Cuban poet, novelist, journalist and freedom fighter. He is known especially for one great literary piece of work. Yes…the novel, Cecilia Valdes!

As I made my way away from the square, I was intrigued with the area. There were captivating outdoor cafes, fun souvenir shops and colorful fans hanging above the street. It was a beautiful afternoon and it was nice to take a seat under one of the large umbrellas and enjoy a refreshing cerveza!

Once again, I continued my explorations and there was a great detail to take in; small, beautifully crafted tiles on buildings, artists putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces, bits of grafitti, a statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and city wall ruins in the Parque Cespedes La Maestranza and the Police Headquarters situated in a old fortress, were just a few of the treasures that I encountered along the way.

Music playing in the distance caught my ear and I followed the tune. Finding myself in the Plaza de la Catedral, a known locale of countless street performers, I stared up at the profound Havana Cathedral, also known as the Catedral de San Cristobal. One of the eleven cathedrals on the island, it serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese. Built between 1748 and 1777, it was consecrated in 1782.

The Baroque architectural style is quite commanding as you stand before the cathedral in the plaza and if your eye is quite discerning, you may notice that the two bell towers are of unequal size and height. Approaching the facade, I noticed that there were fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone, quickly realizing that the Cathedral is constructed from coral. It is quite beautiful and I could not wait to see what its interior held, especially knowing that it was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini.

The interior is decorated in the neoclassical style and has a central nave, two side aisles, eight side chapels and is in the form of a Latin cross. Though my initial impression of the interior was that it was stunning, with its palatial columns and soaring vaulted ceilings, I realized that it was more of an understated beauty. I have seen my share of opulent religious building throughout the world and this one was not of that class. It was, however, welcoming and offered many sculptures, paintings and frescoes throughout its interior. Some of these paintings and frescoes are by masters Peter Paul Rubens and Bartolome Esteban Murillo. Other standouts are a statue of Apolinar Serrano, Spanish bishop of Havana, who is buried in the Cathedral, a sculpture of Saint Christopher, the Patron Saint of Havana, three fading frescoes by Giuseppe Perovani above the altar, a canvas of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of the Cathedral, and on the altar, sculptures and goldsmith works made in Rome during the first half of the 19th century.

The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Christopher and between 1796 and 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept in the Altar of the Gospel before being taken to the Seville Cathedral in Spain after the Cuban War of Independence.

Finding the side door open, I ventured out and discovered access to the right belltower. I suspected that someone is usually stationed at the entrance to collect an admittance fee, however, no one was present. Making my way up each level of the campanile, I had bird’s eye views of each of the mighty carillons as well as panoramas of the plaza below and even a view across the river of the Christ of Havana. A small gate was unlocked and I discovered that it led onto a portion of the roof. Since there was no one to tell me that I was not allowed and no signs, I ventured to the area and was rewarded with close glimpses of the tiled roof and the spectacular flying buttresses.

After my visit to the Cathedral was complete, I headed back out into the Plaza de la Catedral. Musicians were performing at the El Patio restaurant and locals and visitors were dancing in the square. There were gaily dressed Cuban women, seated at tables and telling fortunes and a general sense of celebration. Walking down the Empedrado, I witnessed many artists along the thoroughfare and older women holding tight between their teeth, one of the things Cuba is known for. It seems that they have learned that tourists love the photo opportunity to pose with a cigar smoking old lady! Here, I also found La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar which lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the establishment since its opening in 1942. Though I would have loved to go inside, the line was fairly long and I really would have preferred to come back in the evening for a proper drink.

Cutting back across the Plaza de la Catedral, my next destination was the Plaza de Armas, Havana’s oldest square. Originally known as Plaza de Iglesia for a church that stood on the site, it was developed in the 1520s. Its current name was adopted in the late 16th century, when the governor used the site to conduct military exercises.

Today, the square is centered with a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and bounded by some important buildings which include the 18th century Palacio de Los Condes de Santovenia (now known as the Hotel Santa Isabel), El Templete, the Public Library, the Museum of Natural History, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.

Hoping to be able to visit the Castillo de la Real Fuerza before closing time, I raced around the property to find the entrance. Luckily, I was allowed inside and began my exploration of the oldest Spanish stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere.

Constructed between 1555 and 1577, to safeguard against pirate attacks, it later became the official residence of the Governor of Havana and served as Cuba’s National Archive and National Library. After the Revolution, it housed government offices and a museum of arms. Today, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, serves as a Museum of Ceramics and a Maritime Museum.

After making my way through the lower level and discovering the maritime artifacts located there, I ventured to the second level which houses the bulk of the Maritime Museum and includes the Naval Model-Making Salon and the Underwater Archeology Warehouse. The most spectacular part of the second level, however, is the watchtower which was added in 1634 and is now a symbol of the city. This watchtower is adorned with a bronze statuette, a replica of La Giraldilla of the Seville Cathedral and is used as a weather vane. Though I originally had no knowledge of this watchtower, it was the ladies keeping watch over the museum salons who wanted me to see what made the castle special, that unlocked the door and let me out on the balcony to see it up close!

Upon my departure from the castle, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas. As I entered the gates of El Templete, I was taken aback by the neoclassical architecture, not very common in Havana. The small Greco-Roman temple with Doric columns, dates back to 1827, and was erected in the place where it was believed that the Villa de San Cristobal de la Habana was founded in 1519. Though the workers were in the process of closing the premises for the day, they allowed me to take a quick peek to see the three valuable paintings by French painter Juan Bautista Vermey, which depict the first mass, the first council and the blessing of the Templete on its inauguration.

Inside the courtyard, you can spy the Column of Cajigal which honors the Spanish governor in charge of its construction, an image of the Virgin of Pilar, patroness of Spanish sailors (atop the column), and a marble bust of Governor Don Hernando de Soto, the first governor of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana. The ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in various religions, is one of many that has stood on the site. The latest has existed since 1960 and on November 16, residents come to the tree after midnight, circle it three times and throw a coin to its roots and make a wish.

Crossing the plaza, I stepped into the courtyard of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, the former offical residence of the governors of Havana. Dating back to the late 1700’s, it is home to the Museum of the City of Havana and houses exhibitions of art and historical artifacts. Though I would have loved to see the interior and its original colonial decor, the palace was closing for the day.

Though I was disappointed in not having had the opportunity to visit the palace, I stepped back into the street, which I discovered was paved with wooden blocks. This was the first time I had ever seen this and believe me, it was pretty cool!

Walking past the plaza, I made my way past the Mezquita Addallah and Parque Guayasamin toward the beautiful Old Town Square. Though there are many squares and plazas throughout the city, this one was my favorite. Laid out in 1559, this square offers buildings in many different architectural styles, as well as a fountain and unique sculpture. It was here that I finally encountered the Town Dogs.

I learned about the Town Dogs during my tour that morning but even though I had kept a keen eye out, I had not encountered any of them. The Town Dogs are designated as such by the mayor, protected and cared for by the city, each being vaccinated and sterilized. They wear a tag bearing their names and addresses and are free to roam on their own. Lounging on the steps of the Camera Obscura, I found Nina and P. Oblivious to the fact that I was excited to see them, neither were extremely cooperative about giving me a photogenic look…probably because they also had had a long day and were as tired as I was!

Spying a restaurant balcony with seating across the square, I made a beeline in that general direction. The Don Eduardo Alegre Bar and Restaurant was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the amazing view below, the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer and the perfect way to end my day!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio

Address: Calle Compostela y Cuarteles Loma del Ángel, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0700-1900, daily
Admission: free

Catedral de San Cristobal

Address: Calle Empedrado 156 , La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday 1030-1200, Sunday Mass at 0900.
Admission: free. Tower access, $1 CUC ($1 US)

Castello de la Real Fuerza

Address: Plaza de Armas e/Calle O’Reilly y Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0830-1830, daily
Admission: $1 CUC ($1 US)

Hoofing It Thru Havana

Especial del dia…pollo con queso en trigo.

As I sat in the sanwicheria, eating my chicken and cheese sandwich, I contemplated how to tackle parts of the city which I had not seen that day or on my previous day’s ventures.

Should I make my way to the waterside area bordering Avenue del Puerto for its many museums and churches, venture out to the Malecon’s architectural wonders and take in the fresh sea air or head south to the Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market to seek out some exclusive treasures?

Finally deciding to head north, I made my way along the narrow, dusty streets stopping to capture the captivating architecture and scenes of daily life on my camera. What fascinated me most, however, were the small markets and the carnicerias…not for what they offered or for their appearances, but how locals were required to stand outside in long lines to purchase products. I was a bit confused with the markets, especially, as people stood with their noses pressed against the windows while shopkeepers unlocked the door and allowed one person inside at irregular intervals. After speaking with my host, I learned that purchases are regulated by the government and it is sometimes difficult for locals to obtain necessities. Thankfully, drinks (beer, water and soda) and food were provided by my host and charged to my account, so I never had to figure out how to gain admission into these exchanges.

Continuing on, I decided to conquer the northern part of the city, starting with the Museum of the Revolution. After paying my admission and checking my backpack in the baggage room, I made my through the former Presidential Palace, which dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1913. The awe-inspiring building was decorated by Tiffany’s of New York, contains a jaw-dropping double staircase and many exquisite rooms including the Salón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors), which resembles the room in the Palace of Versailles, the Salón Dorado, used for banquets and decorated in Louis XVI style, the Despacho Presidencial, the President’s office where Fidel Castro was sworn in in 1959 and the chapel with its Tiffany chandelier.

*Salón de los Espejos* (*Hall of Mirrors*)

Though I was originally unaware of Cuba’s history, especially during the revolutionary period, the displays, though mostly captioned in Spanish, contain much documentation and photographic evidence of Batista’s overthrow and a somewhat skewed view of Castro’s seizure of power. There is a large array of artifacts, clothing (including blood-stained and bullet riddled uniforms), letters, documents, weapons and newspapers. If you look carefully or have a guide point it out to you, you can spy the bullet holes in the walls, near the staircase, from the students’ attempt at overthrowing the government in 1957.

In the rear of the building you can find the Granma, the vessel that brought Castro, Guevara and eighty-two others to Cuba in 1956 with the purpose of overthrowing the regime of Fulgencio Batista. Due to preservation purposes, be warned, the ship is partly obscured by the surrounding glass and continuously guarded. There are other vehicles associated with the revolution surrounding the pavilion, including planes, rockets and an old postal van that was used as a getaway car during the 1957 attack. In the courtyard and throughout the museum, there were many art pieces by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.

*Sculpture by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.*

In addition to seeing many other tourists within the museum, I was a bit taken aback to find many locals as well. I later learned, however, the museum was designed primarily to help Cubans understand their own history.

Exiting the museum, I stopped to take a look at the fragment of the former city wall and the SAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs battle. Just beyond these landmarks, I made my way through the Plaza Trece de Marzo, passing the statue of patriot José Marti on horseback, a gift from U.S. donors through a fund initiated by the Bronx Museum of the Arts. The original bronze statue of Marti on horseback, by equine sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington (from which this was modeled) can be seen in New York’s Central Park.

Walking a ways on the Paseo de Marti, again, I was in awe of the architectural gems. Although some were a shadow of their former selves, you could see the artistry that still prevails. This must have been a beautiful place to walk in its heyday and today is still a nice place to stroll with its colorfully, tiled walkways, large shade trees and dedicated effigies.

Crossing the traffic circle near the Spanish embassy, I walked up to the monument that we had passed earlier in the day during my tour…that of General Maximo Gomez, a commander in the wars for independence. The statue is well maintained and frequented by youngsters who used the wide open area to skate.

As the breeze from the Bay of Havana beckoned me toward the water, I found myself at the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, one of the four historic forts that defended Port Havana. Built more than 400 years ago, San Salvador de la Punta Castle is also one of the three fortresses that appear on the Cuban coat of arms.

Castle La Punta and Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the fort I had visited on my tour earlier during the day, were both built on either sides of the channel’s entry. For centuries, a chain barrier was stretched across the canal to prevent access into the port. If this did not deter marauders, pirates and anyone else with ill-intent, there were many large cannons pointed toward the water.

Today, the castle’s moat is no longer functional and the castle no longer serves in its original capacity. Renovated in 2002, to restore it to its original historic appearance, its interior houses the Castle Museum. There are several rooms that inform about the castle’s history and construction, displays of naval models, various objects from sunken Spanish fleets and information about underwater archeology and the slave trade. Intricate models of other castles in Spain, Italy and Cuba can be found on the lower level and many cannons and artillery can be found on the upper level. Don’t plan on asking for any assistance, the staff has other things to do during the mid-day hours! Can anyone say siesta?

After taking in the castle’s interior, make sure to walk around the promenade that surrounds the castle. Here, you can check out dedications to other castles, statues, cannons and fantastic views of the channel, Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, La Cabana and the Malecón. Take a moment to cross back over the roadway to check out the Monument to the Eight Medical Students, a Greek-style temple, built in 1890, in memory of the students executed in the city in 1871, who were accused of violating the grave of a Spanish journalist and the Real Carcel de La Habana, the remains of a 19th century jail where political figures were incarcerated.

*Monument to the Eight Medical Students*

At the beginning of my afternoon, one of the options I considered was making my way along the waterway on the Avenue Del Puerto. I had already seen so much of Havana and there was still so much on my agenda, especially in this area. It was hard to believe I had already seen so many interesting places.

With the walkway bordering the channel nearby, I decided that that would be my general direction. Sunset was many hours away, leaving me with ample time to continue my explorations…what else would I find in this beautiful, old city?

To be continued…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Museo de Revolucion

Address: Calle Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Zulueta, Havana 10600 Cuba
Hours: 0930-1600, daily
Admission: Adult Nationals, $8 CUC ($8 US), Under 12 years, free. Adults, International, $10 CUC ($10 US) Guided tours, $2 ($2 US), only available in Spanish. Ticket office open from 0930-1600.

Plaza 13 de Marzo and Statue of José Marti

Address: Agramonte (y Genios), Havana, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Monument to General Maximo Gomez

Address: Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta

Address: Paseo de Marti Prado y Av. del Puerto, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0900-1700, Wednesday to Sunday
Admission: $6 CUC ($6 US)

Monument to the Eight Medical Students

Address: 4JWR+4W, Havana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Climb To the Castle

How high can you get in Barcelona?

Very high!

There are some amazing places in Barcelona to get beautiful views of the city.

The Montjuic Castle, the sight of an old military fortress, was a place I had been vowing to visit on one of my trips to Barcelona, yet, I just hadn’t been there with a day clear enough to take advantage of its orientation high above the city and the fantastic views it offered.

Starting my journey, I ventured out to the Plaza d’Espana metro station so that I could walk up the steps to the Museum of National Art of Catalonia and get a bit of exercise. The views here are also incredible as is the architecture and the Magic Fountain which can be seen in all its glory during operating hours (see schedule below).

Passing the gardens along Passeig de Santa Madrona, I made my way to the Avinguda de L’Estadi and the Telefèric de Montjuïc . Always looking for a fun way to travel, I assumed that the
telefèric would be an amazing way to get up to the castle…and to be honest, I was quite tired!

Thrilled to find no line, I was able to secure my own cable car, allowing for optimum photographic opportunities. However, with the car being so light and the wind so strong, the swinging of the car from side to side was a bit daunting as we made the final stretch of the journey to the castle.

Stepping out of the telefèric station, I was happy to find the castle’s location right alongside, providing some instant photographic gratification.

Heading to the front of the castle, I found it to be much larger than I had anticipated and I admired the four bastions at each corner of the curtain wall. Crossing the bridge to the castle, which traversed the Santa Eulàlia Moat, I discovered it to be no longer filled with water, but with beautiful flowers and grassy areas.

Purchasing my ticket, I ventured onto the castle’s sea wall. There are many pieces of artillery and sculpture and entryways to the castle’s dungeon, but the most stunning is the 360º views of the port, the Mediterranean, the coastline and the area of Baix Llobregat.

Making my way around the castle I admired the architecture and the landscaping, eyeing the fruit trees at the rear of the property which made me realize how hungry I was, thinking maybe I would have to check out the cafe.

Entering the interior courtyard of the castle, the parade grounds, I ventured through the passageways, enjoying the displays at the rear of the castle highlighting the Mountain of Barcelona and how its position in the city has affected historical events, the Prison and Memory of Barcelona which tells about the castle’s history as a military prison and an exhibit which details The Search of Freedom.

Finally making my way to the terrace, the highest point of the castle, I took in the amazing views of Barcelona, Montjuïc Hill and the castle itself. On the roof, above the entrance, standing tall, is the square watchtower that signaled the arrival of ships through a system of sails during the day and bonfires at night. On the tower’s eastern and western facades, there are two sundials, dating back to 1777, which once was responsible for giving the time in the morning (eastern facing) and for the afternoon (western facing). A plaque on the base of the tower describes the tower as the location where the French astronomer Pierre Méchain obtained the geographical coordinates of Barcelona in 1792 and 1793 and established the trig point that would serve to measure the meridian from Dunkirk. The length of this meridian, linking Barcelona, Paris and Dunkirk, was used as the basis of the metric system.

From a sign posted near the tower, I learned that tours of the watchtower are conducted three to four times a day in both English and Catalan. Since I had missed the tour times, I had to content myself with enjoying the views from the outside. Making a mental note of the tour times, I decided that it would be important to plan the next visit according to the times posted, as I discovered that the guide also takes you down to the dungeons where extensive graffiti has been uncovered, made by those were imprisoned there during different stages of the building’s history.

As I headed back to towards the parade grounds, I located the cafe and eyed the sweet offerings in its showcase. Since it was later in the day, I decided to save my appetite for dinner and enjoy a cold beer in the courtyard instead. It was an amazing end to my day, soaking up both the architectural history and the warm afternoon sun.

As the afternoon came to a close, I wandered back the way I had come, to the telefèric station. Once again, I was able to secure a cable car for myself, only this time, the city was aglow in the light of the setting sun.

After exploring such a beautiful historical setting, I couldn’t image more of a magical ending to a fantastic day. So amazing to be soaring high above the amazing city of Barcelona!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Monjuic Castle

http://ajuntament.barcelona.cat/castelldemontjuic/en
Address: Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66, 08038 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: March 1 until November 1, 1000-2000, daily. November 2 until February 28, 1000-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and January 1.
Admission: Standard admission, 5€, Reduced admission, 3€. Free admission on the first Sunday of the month and Sundays after 1500. Guided tours lasting 1 hour are offered at 1100 and 1500 each day and let visitors discover places within the castle not normally open to the public. Tours, 4€
Getting There: By foot. The walk uphill to Montjuïc Castle from the top of the funicular (lower station, Paral.lel, metro lines 2 and 3), adjacent to the cable car station, takes about 20 to 25 minutes. By public transportation. Bus, line 150, origin Avinguda de la reina Maria Cristina, terminus Montjuïc Castle. Bus 150 goes round Montjuïc Hill before finally reaching the Castle. The ride from Plaça d’Espanya takes about 20 minutes. The descent from the Castle to the beginning of the line also takes 20 minutes. Bus 150 also connects with the
Telefèric de Montjuïc at the bus stop Avinguda de Miramar-Estació del Funicular. The cable car service begins in Avinguda Miramar and leaves visitors in front of the Castle. It has three stops, the first in Avinguda Miramar, one in the middle in the Plaça de la Sardana, and one in front of the Castle. The price of the cable car does not include admission to the Castle. By car. If you arrive by private vehicle, there is a large public car park near the castle on Carrer dels Tarongers.

Telefèric de Montjuïc

https://www.telefericdemontjuic.cat/es
Address: Avinguda Miramar, 30, 08038 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: November-February 1000-1800, daily. March-May, 1000-1900, daily. June-September, 1000-2100, daily. October, 1000-1900, daily.
Admission: Adults, 8,40€, one-way, 12,70€ roundtrip. Children, ages 4-12, 6,60€, one-way, 9,20€ roundtrip. Children under age 4, free.

Magic Fountain

https://www.barcelona.cat/en/what-to-do-in-bcn/magic-fountain/magic-fountains-show-times
Hours: November 1 until January 6, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. January 7 until February 28, closed for maintenance. March 1 until March 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. April 1 until May 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130. June 1 until September 30, Wednesday to Sunday, 2130-2230, music and color, 2130 and 2200. October 1 until October 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130.
Admission: free

By Land and By Sea

Two forts, one city.

My favorite thing about San Juan is its two forts, Castillo San Felipe del Morro and San Cristobal. Having visited both two times before, you would think that I would look to find something else. Well, there are lots of other things in Old Town, but I never tire of these old structures…truly a photographers dream!

Castillo San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal, are two forts that were built to protect the city, the former from attacks from the sea and the latter, attacks from land.

Exiting our cruise ship, the first thing on my agenda was San Cristóbal. Near the port, I knew that it was a short walk that would take me through Plaza de Colón and to the gates of the fort. Starting early, to make the most of our short time in San Juan, I could beat the crowds, photograph to my hearts content, still stroll the city and also see El Morro.

Castillo San Cristóbal, a San Juan Historic Site, stands guard at the eastern gate, the land entrance, to the walled city of Old San Juan. After 149 years of construction, the fort was completed in 1783, although modifications were made throughout next century. The fortification covered about 27 acres of land, sitting on a hill originally known as the Cerro de la Horca, and basically wrapped around the city of San Juan allowing entry through its heavily guarded double gates.

Although the largest fortification built by the Spanish in the New World stood ready to defend the city against land attacks, not much action was seen. A land attack by the British in 1797 (under the command of Sir Ralph Abercrombe) did not make it as far as the fort and until 1898, the only dilemma was a 24 hour mutiny by soldiers living inside the fort against the Spanish crown. Finally, in 1898, the first shots of the Spanish-American War were fired when Puerto Rico was under military attack from U.S. Navy warships. Though the Spanish military attempted to retaliate, its old cannons and the fort could not withstand the assault, surrendering within 24 hours. Only six months later, Puerto Rico became a territory of the United States.

After Puerto Rico’s acquisition, the United States maintained an active military base at the fort with the additions of concrete pillboxes and an underground bunker control center during World War II. In 1961, once the U.S. Army vacated the premises, the U.S. National Park Service gained control and San Cristobal and El Morro were designated as museums and both were also declared as World Heritage Sites by the United Nations.

Over the years, with the city’s growth, part of San Cristóbal and a large segment of the city wall was was demolished to allow for flow of traffic in and out of the city.

The fort has two entrances, one off of Norzagaray Street and one off of Munoz Rivera Avenue. Since I was coming from the cruise ship terminal, I entered from the latter, however, the former is much more dramatic and one used by those coming from El Morro along the route near the water. If you choose to enter from Munoz Rivera, make sure to exit from other entrance to admire its sweeping ramp and grand appearance.

There are many things to see within the fort that can be observed with or without a guide. Three popular tours offered include, The Tunnels Tour which offer treks through the tunnels of the fort and include historical information about these hidden defenses, The Outworks Tour, which brings you to the outworks to see the land defenses and the The Lantern Light Tour, offered twice a week, which informs of soldier’s lives within the fort. In addition, every hour on the hour, free 20-30 minute Daily Orientation Talks are led by park rangers which explain life in the fort.

Since I had opted not to participate in one of the daily walks or tours, I was on my own with my map, looking forward to seeing all of the things that make San Cristóbal special.

Beginning with the short movie that is run continuously throughout the day, on the hour and the half hour (Spanish on the quarter and three quarters of the hour), I learned about the battles and the construction of the forts. Some of the relics from the forts times of battle are also on display in the Visitor Center.

Continuing through the long tunnel, I then found myself in the heart of the fort. There are so many passageways to explore, it is quite a bit difficult to determine, at times, which way to go. Some of the main items you want to make sure you see are:

Tunnel Systems: There are many tunnels to explore throughout the fort, one in particular, leading to the dungeon.

Cisterns: These extremely large cisterns were used for the transport of water during the times of the Spanish Colony and also used as bomb shelters during World War II.

Santa Barbara Chapel: Located in the central plaza, the chapel was built for the fort’s occupants to offer prayers and worship. Santa Barbara is the patron saint of persons in danger of fire and explosions and for this reason, the chapel was especially important to the cannoneers working with their dangerous weapons.

Military Uniforms: A display of uniforms of the soldiers gives insight into how uncomfortable these men must have been in the Caribbean heat. Made of wool and/or cotton, they were layered and included coats and tights.

Living Quarters: Beds, uniforms and dining tables are displayed to show how the troops’ quarters looked when the fort was in use. Make sure to check out the window shutters with graffiti etched into it…ships, dates and Spanish words.

Cannon Balls: There are many piles of cannonballs, weighing approximately 200 pounds each, on the upper level of the fort.

Flags: Check out the flags blowing in the breeze, the United States flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag. The latter is a white flag with a red X and was t he Spanish military flag used from the 16th to 18th centuries to identify warships, forts and regiments of troops loyal to the king of Spain.

Sentry Boxes (Garitas): Located around the outer walls of the fort, the garitas offered a vantage point to watchmen who were guarding the shore. One particular garita, Garita del Diablo, located by itself close to the water in one of the oldest parts of the fort, is of particular interest to tourists. Legend tells that guards on duty in this garita, would disappear, taken away by the devel. Though stories must have run rampant during this time, it was more likely that the guards took advantage of the garitas remote location to escape. Though this sentry box is inaccessible to tourists, it can still be seen. There are many other garitas that can be entered and used for photo opportunities.

Outworks: To the east of the fort is a large stretch of lawn along with some buildings. This is the Outworks of the fort. Take a walk around the area to the the layers of defense (moats and walls) from a different perspective.

With so much to enjoy here, take your time to see all parts of San Cristobal. In addition to the photo opportunities it provides within its walls, its city and coastal views are incredible! I could see both the Carnival Sunshine and Royal Caribbean’s ships docked as well as other beautiful buildings throughout the city. Make sure to stand along the water side and take in the panoramic views of the coast from Old San Juan to Condado and beyond…truly spectacular!

After leaving San Cristóbal, it is approximately a one mile picturesque walk to Castillo San Felipe del Morro along Calle Norzagaray. Since I wanted to stroll through the center of town, doing some shopping along the way, I used Calle Fortaleza then, Calle Clara Lair to the Old City Gate. Walking along the outer walls on the Paseo de Morro, I walked along the water, looking out to El Canuelo, another smaller fortification on Goat Island, and made my way through the grounds of Castillo San Felipe del Morro to the front entrance.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or El Morro, as it is affectionately known, sits high atop a bluff overlooking the entrance to San Juan Bay. One of the largest fortifications built by the Spanish in the Caribbean, it took over 250 years to complete (1787) and was built to protect San Juan from invaders by sea.

After crossing the bridge to the fort, I showed my receipt from San Cristóbal and began my own tour of El Morro.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, named in honor of King Philip II of Spain, lies on the northwestern-most point of the islet of Old San Juan. Construction of the citadel and its surrounding walls began in 1539, on orders of King Charles V of Spain, seeking a way to defend the port of San Juan by controlling entry to the harbor. The final design, drawn up in 1587, was based on Spanish military fortification principles of that time and similar structures can be seen throughout the Caribbean and Latin America in Cuba, Dominican Republic, Mexico, Panama, Guatemala and Honduras.

El Morro’s six levels rise from the sea to a height of 145 feet and offer an imposing sight to those arriving by sea. Nevertheless, El Morro suffered many attacks over the years, from the English in both 1595 and 1598 and from the Dutch in 1625. During the Spanish-American War, U.S. Navy ships fired upon El Morro, destroying the lighthouse. As mentioned above, the war ended with the Treaty of Paris, in which Spain ceded ownership of islands of Puerto Rico to the United States.

After the U.S. acquired Puerto Rico, many government buildings, including El Morro, became part of a large U.S. Army post, Fort Brooke. The large green space in front of El Morro was filled with a hospital, officer’s quarters, officer’s club and sports facilities. The U.S. Army also added a massive concrete bunker to the top of El Morro to serve as a Harbor Defense Fire Control Station, during World War II, to watch for German submarines.

In 1961, the fort became part of the National Park Service when the United States Army officially retired from the fort. Declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations, the esplanade was cleared and restored giving citizens and visitors a wide open space to enjoy the sunny Caribbean days. Today you can see many people flying kites in the afternoon trade winds, a beautiful site with the castillo in the background.

While walking through the ancient fortification, make sure to take in the case mates, where countless arms were fired and the chapel, where no doubt many a soldier prayed for redemption and safety. As with San Cristóbal, check out the sentry boxes, or garitas scattered throughout the structures upper levels.

My favorite part, however, is the restored lighthouse. Sitting 180 feet above sea level, the lighthouse was completed in 1908. On the upper levels you can also see the same three flags flown on San Cristóbal…the U.S. flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag.

Looking out at the massive grounds, the property spreads out along 70 acres, including the killing grounds and the esplanade. Nearby, you can see the nearby Cemetery of Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzi.

An interesting fact about El Morro was that it was used as a film set in 1996 for the movie, Amistad, directed by Steven Spielberg, representing a fort in Sierra Leone, where slaves were auctioned in 1839. Interesting indeed, since slave labor was used to build El Morro.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a most amazing structure and if you arrive or depart on a cruise ship, you are in for a treat! In the afternoon sunlight, you glide right by the Old City Gate, Paseo de Morro and the regal El Morro perched high on its promontory. One of the most beautiful sights of Puerto Rico!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castillo San Cristobal

https://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
Hours: Open daily, 0900-1800, closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day
Admission: Adult, $7.00, Children under 15 years, free. Admission covers entrance to both forts.
Tunnels Tour: English, 1030, Wednesday, 1030 and 1430, Saturdays. Spanish, 1430, Wednesday and 1030 and 1230, Sundays. Approximately 1 hour, maximum group size, 15 people. Sign up at the front desk prior to the tour.
Outworks Tour: Spanish, Saturdays, 1430, English, Sundays, 1430.
Lantern Light Tour: Spanish, Sundays, 1800-1900, English, Tuesdays, 1800-1900. Ranger led.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

https://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
Address: 501 Calle Norzagaray, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
Hours: Open daily, 0900-1800, closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day
Admission: Adult, $7.00, Children under 15 years, free. Admission covers entrance to both forts.
Tours: El Morro, Keystone to Protection of the Spanish Empire Tour, English, Saturdays, 1030 English and Sundays, 1430. Spanish, Saturdays, 1430 and Sundays, 1030. Short informational talks are available every day in the main plaza of Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Make sure to wear comfortable shoes when visiting either of the forts as some of the flooring can be uneven, slippery and offer lots of stairways and bring lots of water, especially on hot days as the heat is intensified by the stone.

The French Fort

Sometimes I have trouble getting to or from work, so I take Amtrak. But, as an American, that is about the extent of what we call train travel here in the United States.

Everyone in Europe takes the train…everywhere. The rail networks reach far and wide and it is extremely easy (and relatively cheap) to visit, shop or go to the beach in other cities.f

Recently, a trip to Nice had me itching to see more of the coastal area. Having been to Monaco and Juan le Pins, I had only spent a small amount of time in Antibes and decided that I would like to see what else it had to offer.

Shortly after my arrival (and a shower), I made my way to the train station, Gare de Nice-Ville and purchased a ticket for the next departure to Antibes. Though it was running a few minutes late, I was soon on my way.

The train was filled with beach goers carrying floats and beach bags, excitedly talking amongst themselves and eager to arrive at their destinations to enjoy the beautiful warm and sunny day. A short 25 minutes later, the train was pulling into Gare d’Antibes and after pushing past a man carrying two beach chairs and a child already wearing his floaties, I was soon making my way down toward the marina, Port Vauban.

Port Vauban, a natural harbor used since before the Roman Empire, is home to the Yacht Club d’Antibes and is the largest marina in the Mediterranean. The harbor houses some of the world’s largest and most extravagant yachts. When visiting Antibes, a great way to spend an afternoon is to walk around the marina, check out some of the amazing vessels and imagine what it would be like to cruise the vibrant waters in absolute luxury!

Though it was nice to spend some time near the harbor, my destination was actually on the far side, Fort Carré.

When making plans to visit Antibes, I had spied Fort Carré on the map. It appeared to be directly between the train station and the harbor and my original plan to was to walk nearby and see if it was open to the public. Well, maps aren’t always correct and after my arrival, I discovered it was about a fifteen minute walk away from the center of Antibes. The route was well marked and I soon arrived at the Antibes Football Club stadium. A large statue that appeared to be some sort of memorial and the fort was visible on the other side, however, it was quite confusing as to how to make my way there.

Spying an open gate near the Football Club, I made my way to the far side of the stadium. Climbing the stone stairways, I made my way to the statue, Le Poilu.

One of the tallest, yet, little known War Memorials in France, the statue stands guard over the Stade de Fort Carré. Walking around the base of the statue, you are reminded of the terrible losses that the town of Antibes suffered during World War One. Two hundred and fifty-four names are engraved on all four side of the monument’s base…a number larger than any other town in France.

The statue stands 22 meters in height and was sculpted by Henri Bouchard and inaugurated in 1927. Legend has it that upon completion and installation of the statue, the sculptor committed suicide when he realized that he had placed the soldier’s rifle on the wrong side.

Walking past the statue, I began earnestly searching for the Fort’s entrance. Though a fence separated me from a road bordering the stadium and the fort, I noticed people walking in the area. Certain that I needed to be on the opposite side, I slipped through a hole in the fence (yes…I did) and finally found the unassuming entrance to the fort’s grounds.

Quite overgrown and appearing to be more of a natural path, I followed others up the rocky and dusty trail, stopping occasionally to admire the wildflowers growing in the area.

Finally, the entryway to the castle stood before me. Paying the admission fee of 3€, I was instructed to remain on the lower level until greeted by a guide. Walking around the circular interior courtyard, I was mesmerized by the contrast between the dark red doorways and the aged tan stone walls. An exhibit detailing the construction of the castle was contained in one of the rooms off of the courtyard and an old well occupied the ground space.

A young, female guide soon joined us and we were escorted up the rounded stairway to the level above. Making our way through the structure, she informed us on the history of Fort Carre.

The star shaped fort was built in the 16th century by Henri de Mandon and redeveloped in the 17th century by the Marquis de Vauban. Housing barrack buildings for officers and men and an ancient chapel, the fort is devoid of cannons or other military accoutrements.

Set on the headland that divides the Antibes harbor from the Baie des Anges, the most impressive part of traversing the walkways at the top of the structure is the panoramic views of the Mediterranean and its nearby beaches, Port Vauban, the southern Alps and on clear days views down both ways to Monaco and Cannes.

As we dodged an aggressive seagull, guarding its nest, we were informed that one of the most famous inhabitants of the fort was Napoleon Bonaparte during the French Revolution. After the overthrow of Robespierre in 1794, he was detained in Fort Carré for ten days. The fort resumed its penitentiary role during the occupation in World War II when it acted as holding place for foreigners. Before opening to the public as an historic monument in 1998, the fort was used as a sports college where soldiers learned to climb its precipitous walls and as one of the locations for the Bond film, Never Say Never with the return of Sean Connery as 007.

Enjoying the warmth of the sunny day, I could have stayed on the top of the fort for much longer, however, being required to stay in the company of our guide, we were escorted to the lower level for the completion of our tour.

After my departure, I made my way around the entire base of the fort, stopping to pay my respects at a nearby soldier’s grave. Finally, following a drive down the backside of the fort, I found the green entrance gates. Not anxious to slip through the hole in the fence once again, I walked toward the stadium’s left side and sure enough found the path which I should have taken when I arrived.

Much easier than the latter method of entry!

Excited that I was able to experience a part of French history, I made my way back past the harbor and to the center of Antibes. If you enjoy history and photography, I strongly recommend a visit to Fort Carré…and the view’s not so bad either!

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Fort Carré

http://www.antibes-juanlespins.com/culture/fort-carre
Address: Avenue du 11 Novembre, 06600 Antibes, France
Hours: February to May, 1000-1230 and 1330-1700, June to October, 1000-1300 and 1400-1800, November to January, 1000-1230 and 1330-1630. Closed Mondays and January 1, May 1, November 1 and December 25.
Admission: 3€

Port Vauban

http://www.riviera-ports.com/ports/port-d-antibes-vauban
Address: Avenue de Verdun, 06600 Antibes, France
Hours: Open always
Admission: free

Le Poilu

Address: 60 Avenue du 11 Novembre, 06600 Antibes Juan les Pins, France. Behind the Antibes Football Stadium