war – Snapping The Globe

Remembering D-Day

News reports these past couple of weeks have kept the world on edge. With bated breath, we watch to see what this war will bring.

People have fled from their homes and their country because of wars past, but because of modern day communications, we are seeing it in real time. We don’t have to rely on hearsay or wait for the daily newspapers as was once the case during past altercations.

But, as difficult as it is to see, it brings to mind the sacrifices those have made in the past for the freedoms many have in their own countries.

Sacrifices we should never forget.

War memorials have been erected throughout the world so as not to forget those who died fighting for their country, their own people and for what they believe in.

Over the course of my travels, I have visited many war memorials throughout the world…Washington, D.C., Honolulu, London, Normandy and Berlin and many more.

Many notable cities have constructed these monuments to pay tribute to those who served and they attract large numbers of visitors each year. But when I learned that there was a very important memorial in western Virginia, just a few hours from my home, I was somewhat perplexed.

The D-Day Memorial was built to honor the American GIs who participated in WWII at the invasion of France at Normandy on June 6, 1944. More than 3,000 American soldiers were killed and wounded, among them eleven companies of soldiers from Virginia. More than thirty soldiers from Bedford went ashore at Omaha Beach. By day’s end, nineteen of Bedford’s soldiers were dead and four more died later in the Normandy campaign. With a population of only 3,200, this constituted one of the most severe proportional losses of any town in the United States.

Dedicated on June 6, 2001, by United States president George W. Bush, the memorial receives over 100,000 visitors per year, including veterans from different wars.

My friend Kathie, an army veteran, had wanted to visit this memorial for quite some time. Learning that its unique water features do not operate during the harsh winter months, we had postponed our trip. With a busy spring and summer, we suddenly realized that with winter approaching once again, the water feature would soon again be off.

Deciding that it was “now or never (or much later)”, we decided to make a day of it and make the long three-hour drive to Bedford in November.

Purchasing our online tickets, we effortlessly made our way past the entrance gates and to the ticket office to check in. Asked to step outside for the arrival of our guide, I walked into the Bobbie G. Johnson Pavilion to admire some of the antique military vehicles.

As prompt as a military man can be, our veteran guide joined us and introduced himself. He then asked for those veterans in the group to identify themselves. Acknowledging those with raised hands, he missed my friend Kathie. It was probably not intentional, as I’m sure he greets more men than women, but it was sad that she was passed over. Thankfully, some around us, realizing the slight, reached over to her and thanked her for her service.

After an introduction to the memorial grounds, he led us past the John Robert “Bob” Slaughter portrait bust and the sculpture Homage, for the sons of Bedford, to the Reynolds Gardens and then we were free to wander the premises on our own.

The Richard S. Reynolds Sr. Gardens are beautifully landscaped and well maintained, with its pattern mimicking the design of the Supreme Headquarters Allied Expeditionary Force shoulder patch. Here, we discovered the sculpture, The Supreme Commander, which depicts Dwight D. Eisenhower as the Supreme Commander for Operation Overlord. In the dome above him, a mosaic tiled map details plans for the invasion and he is surrounded by busts of his principle subordinates…Air Chief Marshal Sir Arthur William Tedder, Deputy Supreme Commander Admiral Sir Bertram H. Ramsay, Allied Naval Commander, Air Chief Marshal Sir Trafford L. Leigh-Mallory, Allied Air Forces Commander, Field Marshal Sir Bernard L. Montgomery, D-Day Assault Commander, Lieutenant General Omar N. Bradley, US 1st Army Commander and Lieutenant General Walter Bedell Smith, Chief of Staff. Along the wall to the north, you can observe monuments honoring the major ground forces that participated in D-Day.

*Dwight D. Eisenhower, The Supreme Commander*

*Monuments honoring the major ground forces that participated in D-Day.*

Making our way up to Elmon T. Grey Plaza, where the floor is divided into five segments (alluding to the five D-Day landing beaches: Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword), it is surrounded by bronze plaques bearing the names of the 4,413 Allied service members killed in action on D-Day. The names of United States service members are on the western wall; the names of the other Allied Expeditionary Force members are on the eastern wall. There is an alphabetical register of names inside the Gift Shop.

Finally, we had reached the part of the monument where the water feature was so important. The granite “Higgins Boat”, representing the various landing craft that brought troops from their ships to shore on the morning of D-Day, sits along the “waterfront” and in the shallows lie two “hedgehogs” representing the many obstacles that the Germans had set out to deter the landing craft making their way to shore.

There are many beach sculptures which display troops on various poses of battle, honoring the valor, fidelity, and sacrifice, the hallmark of Operation Overlord. As we looked out over the scene before us, we realized that the sounds we were hearing were that of bullets whizzing by and hitting the water with small explosions. This, along with the cascading falls alongside soldiers scaling the wall, was the water feature that we wanted to experience and it really lent to the authenticity of the encounter.

Making our way to the top of the wall to Robey W. Estes Sr. Plaza, we found the highlight of the memorial, the forty-four-and-a-half foot triumphal arch. The black and white arch was designed to rise to this height to commemorate the date of the D-Day invasion…the sixth day of the sixth month of 1944.

Also in Estes Plaza, which celebrates the success in the Normandy Landing, is the sculpture, Final Tribute, the inverted rifle topped with a helmet, which salutes the more than 4,400 Allied Members of the Expeditionary Forces. You can spot the National D-Day Memorial seal inscribed on the floor beneath the arch.

Making our way past the arch to the Edward R. Stettinius Jr. Parade which shows the liberations expansion from the beaches to Paris and beyond, we encountered Le Monument aux Morts, created by French sculptor Edmond de Laheudrie in memory of the forty-four men of Trevieres, France who died in World War I. The original statue was struck in the head and disfigured. It was re-cast and serves as a reminder of peace and victory. We also crossed the path of The Purple Heart Monument which stands in the shadow of the garrison flag. It is dedicated to those who received the Purple Heart for their service on D-Day. Flying overhead are the flags of the twelve nations of the AEF in an arch along the exterior of Estes Plaza.

A couple of other items of interest on the premises is the aircraft on the western side of Estes Plaza which pays tribute to the more than 11,000 aircraft which flew in support of the D-Day operations and the Gold Star Families Memorial, which pays tribute to parents, children, spouses and siblings of those who died in service to their nation at any point in our nation’s history.

While our visit wasn’t a lengthy one, it was one that stirred up a lot of emotions for not only myself, but for my friend Kathie who had devoted some time in her life to our nation’s military. Though she never saw combat, I am sure that it brought to mind the possibilities that she could have faced, should war have been declared at that time.

At this time of so much uncertainty, we need to pray for those fighting in the world to maintain their freedoms, for those who have lost their lives and those that will. Their families will never forget them. Neither should the world.

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National D-Day Memorial

https://www.dday.org/
Address: 3 Overlord Circle, Bedford, Virginia 24523
Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Closed Mondays December through February. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. The Memorial closes at noon on New Year’s Eve.
Admission: Adults, $12.00 ($10.00 online), Veteran (not WWII), $10.00 ($8.00), WWII veterans and active-duty military, free, Students (https://www.dday.org/
Address:
Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. The Memorial closes at noon on New Year’s Eve.
Admission: Adults, $12.00 ($10.00 online), Veteran (not WWII), $10.00 ($8.00 online), WWII veterans and active-duty military, free, Students (ages 6-18 or older with college ID), $8.00 ($6.00 online), Children (under age 6), free. Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest/D-Day Memorial Combo Ticket, $20, includes admission and tour at both sites, which may be visited on separate dates.
Getting There: From Richmond, 360 west to 460 west; Follow signs to Lynchburg and Bedford. Take 2nd Bedford Exit. Take a right off of the exit onto Burks Hill Road. Take the next left at the Bedford Area Welcome Center for ticket purchases. Total distance – approximately 143 miles. Or, 64 west to 81 south; take exit 150 to Alternate 220; Follow signs to 460 (Lynchburg and Bedford) and take a left onto 460 east. Travel approximately 25 minutes and take the 122 exit. Take a left off of the exit and proceed through the stoplight. Take an immediate left at the Bedford Area Welcome Center for ticket purchases. From Roanoke, 460 east to Route 122 north. Take the 122 exit. Take a left off of the exit and proceed through the stoplight. Take an immediate left at the Bedford Area Welcome Center for ticket purchases. Total distance-approximately 27 miles.

Forts and Beaches

How do you combine history with a day at the beach?

In Key West, you can take a boat tour to the Dry Tortugas. On this island, seventy miles west of Key West, visitors can tour Fort Jefferson, bask in the sun and snorkel the clear waters of the Caribbean. A long ferry ride for a short time on the island? Surely there must be a better way!

Fort Zachary Taylor State Park on the southern part of the Key West, also offers a historic fort and a beach.

Built in the mid-1800s, Fort Zachary Taylor was one of three strongholds built to defend the southeastern United States coastline. Completed in 1866, it played significant roles in both the Civil War and the Spanish-American War and played a key role in guarding the harbor of Key West.

The fort, built by Irish brick masons, is two and a half stories tall and forms a trapezoid. Towering over fifty feet about the water, it walls are five feet thick. Back in its heyday, the fort housed 198 cannons and 450 men.

Only a few cannons (and none of the men) are in existence today, but we were able to walk along the top of the walls, enjoying the ocean views and in the inner areas where the remaining cannons are housed. There are multiple displays detailing life in the fort and ammunitions in the areas which once housed the barracks and if you are lucky, you might spy one of the iguanas that call the fort home.

After we had made our way throughout the historic structure, we exited the gates and took the Tropical Hammock Trail leading to the Fort Zachary Taylor State Park beach, passing the remains of the old Blacksmith Shop along the way.

Our walk wasn’t a long one and we found a rocky beach edged with calm waters and palm trees.

After we secured two chairs and an umbrella, it was time for some relaxation. The beach was decent, however, paying more for two chairs and an umbrella than we had in the Greek Isles, was a bit surprising. In addition, we were also glad to have brought snacks as the concession stand’s pricing was on the high side. As far as a refreshing swim was concerned, the water was dark and cloudy and extremely warm. Taking some time to relax together and get some sun seemed to be the only benefit of our visit.

So, while we enjoyed the fort and beach’s close proximity to the other attractions in Key West, what we expected was not what we got. I had seen the pictures of Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas and maybe that skewed my perception of what we would be experiencing in Key West. Though I enjoyed the fort I felt we were a bit short-changed on the beach side.

Next time, I think I’m paying for that long ride to the Dry Tortugas!

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Fort Zachary Taylor State Park

https://www.floridastateparks.org/parks-and-trails/fort-zachary-taylor-historic-state-park
Address: 601 Howard England Way, Key West FL 33040
Hours: 0800-sundown, daily
Admission: $6.00 per vehicle (2-8 people). Pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $2.50. Single-occupant vehicle or motorcycle (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $4.50.
Beach Amenities: Two chairs and umbrella, $30.00. Concessions and watersport rentals vary.

The Ghosts of Gettysburg

As a believer in the paranormal, some of my favorite television shows are about ghosts!

The ones pertaining to ghost hunting captivate my interest because these paranormal researchers visit some of the most haunted places in the world and the United States. One Saturday night, I remember watching an episode which highlighted Gettysburg Battlefield and the apparitions that inhabit the once bloody battlefields. I was intrigued! Knowing that Gettysburg was only a few hours away, I vowed to take a road trip one day.

Many years passed and there never seemed to be enough time to squeeze that trip in between my work and personal travels. I had been all over the world…Greece, Vietnam, Paris…you name it…but I had yet to fulfill this one seemingly small visit to the nearby state.

This year, amidst the Covid 19 restrictions, I found myself with more spare time than I could have ever imagined. Because I could not get to my job easily, I was forced to take a leave for a few months. At first, it was quite difficult to be home so much more than I was accustomed. Nothing was open, so I found myself quite bored. Eventually, however, things began to reopen and I decided that even if I couldn’t travel with my job to the international places that I was used to, I could still try and visit the many attractions in my state and the ones nearby.

One day, I packed my suitcase and decided that it was the day…the day to finally visit Gettysburg and maybe some of its ghosts!

After a quick visit to the national park website, I gathered the information needed for a successful trip, arrived in record time and checked into my hotel. Deciding to purchases tickets to explore the visitor’s center, which I felt was a necessity, I then elected to skip the tour bus (and crowds), download the Gettysburg Battle Auto Tour and do it myself!

Arriving at the opening time, I said hello to a “socially distancing” Abe Lincoln and made my way through the Visitor’s Center, taking my place in line for my time slot for the film, A New Birth of Freedom. Along with the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, the film and the museum’s exhibits gave me the background of the events that led to the brutal three-day Battle of Gettysburg, fought between the Union and Confederate soldiers in June 1863. A major turning point in the Civil War, this battle saw more than 51,000 Americans killed, wounded or missing, most under General Robert E. Lee’s command. The museum contained a great deal of information of events that led up to the war, the war itself and the conditions that dictated the soldier’s lives. There were old photographs, soldiers’ uniforms, musical instruments ammunitions, letters, flags and a tribute to the ones that gave their lives for the cause that they believed in. Protected under glass, I spotted letters from Abraham Lincoln and headlines from his death in 1865. One of the most interesting exhibits, however, were the wooden ceiling joists taken from Gettysburg resident, John Forney’s farm. Hanging above our heads, you could see where a single artillery projectile pierced what once supported his house.

Though I was not sure what the Cyclorama would entail, after the film, I followed the crowds up the escalators to the upper level. The 360 degree painting, by artist Paul Philippoteaux, that surrounded us, depicted Pickett’s Charge, the Confederate attack on the Union forces on July 3, 1863. Once the equivalent of an IMAX theater, the life sized painting, which took over a year and a half to complete, was originally displayed with numerous artifacts and sculptures, including stone walls, trees and fences. It was quite the spectacle as I made my way around the circular room and inspected the magnificent painting as the light changed and each section seemed to take on a life of its own.

Once I had made my way back to the lower level, I quickly stopped at the Information Counter, received a map and some helpful advice on how best to tackle the vast expanses of the battlefield.

Finally in my car, I took a quick glance at the directions, turned on my Auto Tour and headed out to the first part of the battlefield in the northern part of the city, that of McPherson Ridge, where the Battle of Gettysburg began. Though I have visited many battlefields in Virginia, I wasn’t sure what differentiated Gettysburg from these combat zones. For starters, as I turned onto Reynolds Avenue, I discovered what it was…monuments, memorials, markers and plaques that commemorate and memorialize the men who fought and died during this important battle. Including the state monuments, this constitutes one of the largest collections of outdoor sculpture in the world.

Wanting to experience it all, I initially stopped at every monument, memorial, marker and plaque. An hour into my journey, however, I learned that if I wanted to finish the entire drive, I would have to step it up.

There were many locations that I stopped along the way to get a closer look including the Eternal Light Peace Memorial, the North Carolina, Virginia and Pennsylvania Memorials, General James Longstreet’s Monument, Brigadier General Strong Vincent Memorial, Little Round Top (the site of an unsuccessful assault by Confederate troop against the Union) and the monuments located on this hilltop. I learned that Devil’s Den, located below Little Round Top, with its huge boulders, is a popular place for visitors to stretch their legs and sometimes after dark, scour the areas around for ghosts!

There were many historical farms, with their buildings still proudly gracing various areas of the battlefield, including the farms of George Weikert, Abraham Trostle, John and Mary Wentz, the Sherfy Family, the Spanglers and the Klingles. I even discovered the home of our 34th president, Dwight D. Eisenhower.

*The Home of President Dwight D. Eisenhower*

Countless cannons dotted the landscape as well as other items used by the troops, including wagons. There was so much still to see as I neared the National Cemetery and the rain began to fall, dampening my efforts.

Finally, I made my way to the area that included Spangler’s Spring, which still exhibits its original source of drinking water and Cemetery Hill, the keystone of the Union position at Gettysburg. These were important landmarks where major assaults took place towards the end of the battle.

Such a distinctive and monumental place, the Battlefields of Gettysburg was one of the most informative, yet moving locations that I have ever set foot on. It is quite hard to imagine what partaking in those three days was like; the anticipation, the combat, the aftermath. So much effort was expended. You can still definitely feel the spirit of the souls that fought and perished here.

So, did I see any ghosts?

After a long day driving the entire battlefield, my efforts ended with the arrival of a huge thunderstorm. The lightening strikes eerily sounded like cannon fire and as I glanced out of my hotel window at the darkened skies lighting up intermittently, I decided that if I wanted to see ghosts, it wasn’t going to be on the battlefield that night.

Maybe if I had had a partner to egg me on, I might have considered driving the battlefield under the cover of night.. Or maybe, I would have had the forethought to book a room at the Comfort Suites. These rooms overlooked the Evergreen Cemetery and was adjacent to the Soldier’s National Cemetery. Certainly, they must see their share of paranormal activity just outside the hotel! This leaves me to wonder if they book extra for the rooms with a “view”!

Next time, I definitely know where I am staying!

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Gettysburg National Military Park

https://www.nps.gov/gett/planyourvisit/visitorcenters.htm
Address: 1195 Baltimore Pike, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: Visitor’s Center, April 1-November 30, 0900-1600. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. December 1-March 31, pending pandemic conditions. Park Grounds and Roads, April 1-October 31, 0600-1000 daily, November 1-March 31, 0600-1900, daily.
Admission: There is no fee to enter the Visitor’s Center. Ticket with timed admission for the film A New Birth of Freedom, Cyclorama Painting and the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, Adults (ages 13+), $15.00, Seniors (65+), $14.00, Active Duty U.S. Military Personnel, free, AAA Discount, $14.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $10.00, Children (ages 5 and under), free. For access to the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War only, Adults, (ages 13+), $9.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $7.00
Battlefield Tours: By car with licensed tour guide, 1-6 people per vehicle, $75.00, 7-15 people per vehicle, $100.00, 16+ people per vehicle, $150.00. By bus with licensed tour guide, Adults (age 13+), $35.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $21.00, Children (5 and under), free

Churchill’s Hideout

Last week, I saw the movie, “Darkest Hour” and a few week’s before that, “Dunkirk”. History is not my strongest suit, despite my love of museums, but having visited the Churchill War Rooms in London recently, everything that happened during that time frame suddenly made sense to the muddled historic timeline in my head!

One of the five branches of the Imperial War Museums, the Churchill War Rooms, opened to the public in 1984, includes the Cabinet War Rooms, the historic underground complex that housed the British government center throughout World War II and the Churchill Museum, dedicated to the life of former prime minister Winston Churchill.

As Hitler threatened the world, Britain began construction on the Cabinet War Rooms, located below the Treasury building in Westminster in 1938. Just before the war broke out in Europe, operations were moved in and remained throughout the Second World War until the surrender of Japan.

The Churchill War Rooms offer a self guided tour through each of the areas used by British intelligence and more importantly, the prime minister of the time, Winston Churchill.

Watching the movie, it was quite thrilling to see the Map Room, which was used continually by the officers of the Royal Navy, British Army and Royal Air Force who produced a daily intelligence summary for the King, Prime Minister and the military Chiefs of Staff. The other room I recognized was the Cabinet Room, from which Churchill visited in 1940 and famously declared, “This is the room from which I will direct the war.” And that he did. 115 Cabinet meetings, in all, were held in the Cabinet War Rooms.

The facility included living and sleeping areas for the staff, bedrooms for the military officers and senior ministers and rooms for the typists and telephone switchboard operators. The prime minister also spent much of his time below ground working, despite the fact that the rooms were not entirely immune to the bombing raids that continually rained devastation upon the city.

Also interesting to observe were the Transatlantic Telephone Room and Churchill’s office-bedroom, both preserved much as they were left. Noticing a small sign which instructed visitors to walk to the end of one of the hallways, it also gave instructions to check out a doorway on the left. Though it only appeared to be the entrance to a bathroom, there wasn’t much else to clue anyone in as to its importance. As I entered the next room, one of the volunteers, asked me if I had noticed the doorway. Since I didn’t seem to know anything about it, he proceeded to tell me about a scene in the movie to watch for when Winston Churchill retired to what appeared to be a restroom. A glass wall, around the corner, offered a glimpse into the pseudo bathroom…it was actually a small room outfitted with a SIGSALY code-scrambling encrypted telephone connected directly with the Pentagon in Washington, D.C. This modest space offered the prime minister privacy and a direct line to speak with American President Roosevelt.

The other major part of the exhibit was the Churchill Museum. A large detailed space, it offered a look into Churchill’s life from his birth, to his military career, his political career and finally retirement.

Whether you are a fan of the two-time prime minister or a history buff, the Churchill War Rooms does not cease to please. Take a couple of hours and head on over to the place in London that made a huge impact on World War II.

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Churchill War Rooms

https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/churchill-war-rooms
Address: Clive Steps, King Charles St, Westminster, London SW1A 2AQ, UK
Hours: Daily, 0930-1800
Admission: Adult, £21.00, Children under 5, free, Children ages 5-15, £10.50, Family ticket (2 adults, 1 child) £35.70, Family ticket (2 adults, 2 children) £53.55, Concessions, £16.80. Audio guides included in admission price.
Getting There: Metro, Westminster station

Remembering the Fallen

Several Soviet Memorials are located in Berlin, erected to commemorate its fallen soldiers.

As we drove through the city, on the way to our hotel, we passed one of the memorials, the Tiergarten.

A colleague of mine, of Russian descent, was very excited to see that the monument was not far from some of the other landmarks we had planned to visit later that day. Having been to Berlin a few times before, I was actually surprised to see that it was located just down the road from the Brandenburg Gate. Maybe I had seen it and did not realized its significance or maybe I was asleep during the bus tour, but I was excited that I would be able to visit something new and share it with someone that it meant something to.

After our visit to the Brandenburg Gate, we headed west on Strasse des 17 Juni (17 June Street) and found ourselves at the entrance of the memorial which is located in the Großer Tiergarten, a large public park and a place where Adolf Hitler had plans to build Welthauptstadt Germania. Impressively flanked by two Red Army ML-20 152mm gun-howitzer artillery pieces and two T-34 tanks, the notable monument, a curved stoa, is topped by a towering statue of a Soviet soldier, whose arm is in a position to symbolize the Red Army’s putting down of the Nazi German state. A Cyrillic inscription under the soldier translates into “Eternal glory to heroes who fell in battle with the German fascist invaders for the freedom and independence of the Soviet Union”.

My friend, reading as we walked, explained that the monument was erected to commemorate the 80,000 soldiers of the Soviet Armed Forces who died during the Battle of Berlin in April and May 1945. It was constructed in 1945, within a few months of the capture of the city, and built from stonework taken from the destroyed Reich Chancellery.

As we walked to the rear of the property, we discovered an outdoor museum which highlighted the memorial’s construction and offered a look into the city’s other memorials.

Though the memorial has special meaning to those such as my friend and the many who make pilgrimages from various Soviet countries, there are those, however, who still oppose the monument. The structure has suffered at the hands of vandals and has earned some harsh nicknames, such as “Tomb of the Unknown Rapist” which references one of the various crimes committed by the Soviet occupation troops.

The Tiergarten was a surprise for me. Not one of the major attractions of Berlin, I had not planned to include it in my day, however, I was excited to learn more through my visit with my Russian friend.

As we walked the property, admiring the tanks, a bunny hopped out from the bushes. A short while later, a fox surprised us as he emerged from the same bushes. Was the fox searching for the bunny? Though the fatalities of the war ended many years ago, this was a reminder of how things once were…when there were those who were pursued and killed…

Though there are two other Soviet memorials in Berlin, commemorating the fallen, Treptower Park and Schonholzer Heide, make sure to check out the oldest and most conveniently located…Tiergarten.

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Soviet War Memorial (Tiergarten)

https://www.visitberlin.de/en/soviet-memorial-tiergarten
Address: Straße des 17. Juni 4, 10557 Berlin, Germany
Hours: Open 24 hours, daily
Admission: free