Remembering D-Day

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

News reports these past couple of weeks have kept the world on edge. With bated breath, we watch to see what this war will bring.

People have fled from their homes and their country because of wars past, but because of modern day communications, we are seeing it in real time.  We don’t have to rely on hearsay or wait for the daily newspapers as was once the case during past altercations.

But, as difficult as it is to see, it brings to mind the sacrifices those have made in the past for the freedoms many have in their own countries. 

Sacrifices we should never forget. 

War memorials have been erected throughout the world so as not to forget those who died fighting for their country, their own people and for what they believe in.

Over the course of my travels, I have visited many war memorials throughout the world…Washington, D.C., Honolulu, London, Normandy and Berlin and many more.

Many notable cities have constructed these monuments to pay tribute to those who served and they attract large numbers of visitors each year.  But when I learned that there was a very important memorial in western Virginia, just a few hours from my home, I was somewhat perplexed.

The D-Day Memorial was built to honor the American GIs who participated in WWII at the invasion of France at Normandy on June 6, 1944.  More than 3,000 American soldiers were killed and wounded, among them eleven companies of soldiers from Virginia.  More than thirty soldiers from Bedford went ashore at Omaha Beach.  By day’s end, nineteen of Bedford’s soldiers were dead and four more died later in the Normandy campaign.  With a population of only 3,200, this constituted one of the most severe proportional losses of any town in the United States.  

Dedicated on June 6, 2001, by United States president George W. Bush, the memorial receives over 100,000 visitors per year, including veterans from different wars.  

My friend Kathie, an army veteran, had wanted to visit this memorial for quite some time.  Learning that its unique water features do not operate during the harsh winter months, we had postponed our trip.  With a busy spring and summer, we suddenly realized that with winter approaching once again, the water feature would soon again be off.  

Deciding that it was “now or never (or much later)”, we decided to make a day of it and make the long three-hour drive to Bedford in November. 

Purchasing our online tickets, we effortlessly made our way past the entrance gates and to the ticket office to check in.  Asked to step outside for the arrival of our guide, I walked into the Bobbie G. Johnson Pavilion to admire some of the antique military vehicles.

Bobbie G. Johnson Pavilion

As prompt as a military man can be, our veteran guide joined us and introduced himself.  He then asked for those veterans in the group to identify themselves.  Acknowledging those with raised hands, he missed my friend Kathie.  It was probably not intentional, as I’m sure he greets more men than women, but it was sad that she was passed over.  Thankfully, some around us, realizing the slight, reached over to her and thanked her for her service. 

After an introduction to the memorial grounds, he led us past the John Robert “Bob” Slaughter portrait bust and the sculpture Homage, for the sons of Bedford, to the Reynolds Gardens and then we were free to wander the premises on our own. 

John Robert “Bob” Slaughter portrait bust
Homage

The Richard S. Reynolds Sr. Gardens are beautifully landscaped and well maintained, with its pattern mimicking the design of the Supreme Headquarters Allied Expeditionary Force shoulder patch.  Here, we discovered the sculpture, The Supreme Commander, which depicts Dwight D. Eisenhower as the Supreme Commander for Operation Overlord. In the dome above him, a mosaic tiled map details plans for the invasion and he is surrounded by busts of his principle subordinates…Air Chief Marshal Sir Arthur William Tedder, Deputy Supreme Commander Admiral Sir Bertram H. Ramsay, Allied Naval Commander, Air Chief Marshal Sir Trafford L. Leigh-Mallory, Allied Air Forces Commander, Field Marshal Sir Bernard L. Montgomery, D-Day Assault Commander, Lieutenant General Omar N. Bradley, US 1st Army Commander and Lieutenant General Walter Bedell Smith, Chief of Staff.  Along the wall to the north, you can observe monuments honoring the major ground forces that participated in D-Day. 

Richard S. Reynolds Sr. Gardens
Dwight D. Eisenhower, The Supreme Commander
Richard S. Reynolds Sr. Gardens
Richard S. Reynolds Sr. Gardens
Franklin D. Roosevelt
Monuments honoring the major ground forces that participated in D-Day. 

Making our way up to Elmon T.  Grey Plaza, where the floor is divided into five segments (alluding to the five D-Day landing beaches: Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword), it is surrounded by bronze plaques bearing the names of the 4,413 Allied service members killed in action on D-Day. The names of United States service members are on the western wall; the names of the other Allied Expeditionary Force members are on the eastern wall. There is an alphabetical register of names inside the Gift Shop.

Elmon T.  Grey Plaza

Finally, we had reached the part of the monument where the water feature was so important. The granite “Higgins Boat”, representing the various landing craft that brought troops from their ships to shore on the morning of D-Day, sits along the “waterfront” and in the shallows lie two “hedgehogs” representing the many obstacles that the Germans had set out to deter the landing craft making their way to shore.

German Hedgehog

There are many beach sculptures which display troops on various poses of battle, honoring the valor, fidelity, and sacrifice, the hallmark of Operation Overlord. As we looked out over the scene before us, we realized that the sounds we were hearing were that of bullets whizzing by and hitting the water with small explosions.  This, along with the cascading falls alongside soldiers scaling the wall, was the water feature that we wanted to experience and it really lent to the authenticity of the encounter.

Making our way to the top of the wall to Robey W. Estes Sr. Plaza, we found the highlight of the memorial, the forty-four-and-a-half foot triumphal arch.  The black and white arch was designed to rise to this height to commemorate the date of the D-Day invasion…the sixth day of the sixth month of 1944.  

Triumphal arch
Triumphal arch

Also in Estes Plaza, which celebrates the success in the Normandy Landing, is the sculpture, Final Tribute, the inverted rifle topped with a helmet, which salutes the more than 4,400 Allied Members of the Expeditionary Forces. You can spot the National D-Day Memorial seal inscribed on the floor beneath the arch.  

Final Tribute
National D-Day Memorial Seal

Making our way past the arch to the Edward R. Stettinius Jr. Parade which shows the liberations expansion from the beaches to Paris and beyond, we encountered Le Monument aux Morts, created by French sculptor Edmond de Laheudrie in memory of the forty-four men of Trevieres, France who died in World War I. The original statue was struck in the head and disfigured. It was re-cast and serves as a reminder of peace and victory. We also crossed the path of The Purple Heart Monument which stands in the shadow of the garrison flag. It is dedicated to those who received the Purple Heart for their service on D-Day. Flying overhead are the flags of the twelve nations of the AEF in an arch along the exterior of Estes Plaza.

Edward R. Stettinius Jr. Parade
Le Monument aux Morts
The Purple Heart Monument
Flags from twelve nations.

A couple of other items of interest on the premises is the aircraft on the western side of Estes Plaza which pays tribute to the more than 11,000 aircraft which flew in support of the D-Day operations and the Gold Star Families Memorial, which pays tribute to parents, children, spouses and siblings of those who died in service to their nation at any point in our nation’s history.

Gold Star Families Memorial
Monument to US Coast Guard

While our visit wasn’t a lengthy one, it was one that stirred up a lot of emotions for not only myself, but for my friend Kathie who had devoted some time in her life to our nation’s military. Though she never saw combat, I am sure that it brought to mind the possibilities that she could have faced, should war have been declared at that time.

At this time of so much uncertainty, we need to pray for those fighting in the world to maintain their freedoms, for those who have lost their lives and those that will. Their families will never forget them. Neither should the world.

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National D-Day Memorial

  • https://www.dday.org/
  • Address: 3 Overlord Circle, Bedford, Virginia 24523
  • Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Closed Mondays December through February. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day.   The Memorial closes at noon on New Year’s Eve.
  • Admission: Adults, $12.00 ($10.00 online), Veteran (not WWII), $10.00 ($8.00), WWII veterans and active-duty military, free, Students (https://www.dday.org/
  • Address:
  • Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day.   The Memorial closes at noon on New Year’s Eve.
  • Admission: Adults, $12.00 ($10.00 online), Veteran (not WWII), $10.00 ($8.00 online), WWII veterans and active-duty military, free, Students (ages 6-18 or older with college ID), $8.00 ($6.00 online), Children (under age 6), free. Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest/D-Day Memorial Combo Ticket, $20, includes admission and tour at both sites, which may be visited on separate dates.
  • Getting There: From Richmond, 360 west to 460 west; Follow signs to Lynchburg and Bedford. Take 2nd Bedford Exit. Take a right off of the exit onto Burks Hill Road.  Take the next left at the Bedford Area Welcome Center for ticket purchases. Total distance – approximately 143 miles. Or, 64 west to 81 south; take exit 150 to Alternate 220; Follow signs to 460 (Lynchburg and Bedford) and take a left onto 460 east. Travel approximately 25 minutes and take the 122 exit. Take a left off of the exit and proceed through the stoplight.  Take an immediate left at the Bedford Area Welcome Center for ticket purchases. From Roanoke, 460 east to Route 122 north. Take the 122 exit. Take a left off of the exit and proceed through the stoplight.  Take an immediate left at the Bedford Area Welcome Center for ticket purchases. Total distance-approximately 27 miles.

The Hall and the Fossils

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Many years ago, while some work was being completed on our house, the electrician, noting my three very active boys, offered up a recommendation.

No, it’s not what you’re thinking…not chandeliers or track lighting…

He suggested that I take my boys fossil hunting!

Yes, fossil hunting!

Having a boy of his own, he was fully aware of the challenges of finding things to keep children occupied. Describing a place that he often took his son, he detailed all of the shark teeth and fossilized items they found on their visits. About an hour and a half away, located on the Potomac River in the northern neck of Virginia, he chronicled the property as the former home of Confederate Robert E. Lee, an historic estate open to visitors, although it was the area at the rear of the property, along the waterway that he wanted us to experience.

A few days later, I loaded the boys in the car and made that trip. We found dozens of ancient shark teeth, buried in the sandy banks, in that particular location and also in nearby Westmoreland State Park. Merely gazing at Lee’s former home as we drove by, I never gave the thought of visiting the stately manor much credence.

Years passed and the bags of shark teeth sat in a container on my kitchen countertop. As the restrictions from Covid lingered, I found myself away from work and desperately searching for things to occupy myself and fulfill my wanderlust desires. While cleaning the kitchen one day, I came upon one of those bags and thought about that sunny, fall day when we dug in the sand and carefully sifted it in hopes of discovering some ancient treasures. I remembered passing the Lee estate and decided to do an internet search to see if it was open to visitors. Certainly, I could stand to feel like a tourist again and maybe even do a little sand sifting!

On a mid-January day, my husband and I headed out to Montross, Virginia. Unseasonably warm and sunny, it was the perfect day to go sight-seeing. Upon our arrival, we ventured into the Visitor’s Center, paid our admission, collected our audio guide and wandered through the adjacent exhibit which gave an overview of the historical significance of the site as well its timeline.

Leaving the center, we then made our way down a long walkway toward the “Great House”.

Built by Thomas Lee in 1738, this plantation remained in the Lee family for four generations that helped to define our nation. While most people are aware that Thomas Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence, many don’t know the names of the signers, aside from Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams and John Hancock. In fact, Richard Henry Lee and Francis Lightfoot Lee, both born at Stratford Hall, were two of fifty-six endorsers during 1776.

Years later, the birth of Robert Edward Lee, in 1807, was documented in the plantation journals. This young man called Stratford Hall his home until leaving to serve as General-in-Chief of the Confederate States Army during the American Civil War from 1861 until 1865.

Designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1960, the property is under the care of the National Park Service and the United States Department of the Interior. The grounds are impeccably kept and the home is proportionately constructed and in exemplary condition.

We first made our way through both levels of the Great House, examining the period furniture, original colonial pine floors, brick masonry and oil paintings. The home is elegantly furnished and exhibits the wealth of the Lee family during the time.

Heading outside, we analyzed the home’s meritorious brick exterior, acknowledging the skillful craftsmanship, before taking to task the other structures located on the 2,000 acre property…the Overseer’s work place, the Payne cabin (home of the enslaved Payne family and the grave marker of “Uncle Wes” William Westley Payne), the spring house, the gardens, the northeast out-building, the gardener’s cottage, the burial vault, the smokehouse, the kitchen, the slave quarters, the southwest out-building and the coach house and stables. The property is vast, including marked nature trails, so allow a few hours see everything.

Great House Exterior
The Overseer’s Cabin
Overseer’s Cabin
Payne Cabin
Payne Cabin
The Grave of “Uncle Wes” William Westley Payne
The Spring House
The Spring House
Stratford Hall Gardens
Northwest Outbuilding
The Gardener’s Cottage
The Gardener’s Cottage
Burial Vault
Burial Vault
Kitchen and Smokehouse
Craftsmen’s Work and Living Quarters
Slave Quarters
Slave Quarters
Coach House and Stables
Coach House and Stables
Nature Trails

Since we still had a bit of time remaining before the winter sun slide beyond the horizon, we headed down to the beach area. Before we ditched our shoes for our coastal explorations, we investigated the grist mill with its paddle wheel and the lake.

Grist Mill
Grist Mill

Finally, it was time to see if I would have any luck with our specimen search. We had the beach to ourselves and we thoroughly combed the area and dug through the sand as much as my cold fingers could stand.

Potomac River Beach

Nothing.

Oh well, maybe I just don’t have the patience that I used to.

Leaving empty-handed, we made a quick stop at the slave cemetery. Sadly, we did not even have some shells to leave on the marker in remembrance of those who served the Lee family faithfully.

Slave Cemetery

Although it was the perfect day for sightseeing, obviously it wasn’t the perfect day for fossil hunting.

The boys will simply have to join me next time!

Stratford Hall

  • https://www.stratfordhall.org/
  • Address: 483 Great House Rd, Stratford, Virginia 22558-0001
  • Hours: 1000-1700, Wednesday through Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
  • Admission: Adults (ages 14+), $12.00, Children (ages 6-13), $5.00, Children (under 5), free. Grounds Pass (access to the hiking trails, public beach area, gardens, public grounds, Visitor Center, and Gift Shop only), Adults, $8.00, Children, $5.00.

A Piece of the Triangle

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Most people know that Yorktown was the site, after seven years of the American Revolution, that British General Lord Charles Cornwallis surrendered to General George Washington during the last major land battle which brought an end to the conflict.

After a visit to the battlefield, visitors often head into the town to explore the distinct reminders of Yorktown’s historic past.

Millions of tourists visit Yorktown annually, in conjunction with visits to nearby Jamestown and Williamsburg. All three cities, which form the Historic Triangle, offer interesting experiences to visitors of all ages. Though it has been quiet lately, I think that interest in the origins of our great nation will continue to lure the past crowds back to the area and on this beautiful fall day, it lured me.

Established in 1691, to regulate trade and collect taxes on both imports and exports for Great Britain, Yorktown emerged as a major port and economic center in the early part of the next century. With almost 300 buildings, the waterfront offered wharves, docks, storehouses and business and the city streets contained stately homes, taverns and shops during the mid 1700’s. 1781 saw Cornwallis’ arrival and the subsequent siege by American and French forces. As a result, much of the town was destroyed.

At the end of the war, fewer than seventy buildings remained. A fire in 1814 destroyed much of the surviving waterfront area, many homes and the courthouse on Main Street. More destruction was seen during the Civil War in 1862.

While I would have loved to visit the American Revolution Museum, time was limited after my drive through the battlefield and I was much more interested in taking a stroll to channel what it must have been like before the siege. Parking in a lot in the downtown area, I decided to spend the remainder of the afternoon walking the town streets and seeing what makes it unique.

Yorktown has a colonial atmosphere and while there are some reminders of its historic past, much of it has been reconstructed. There are some sites of importance that I encountered during my stroll along the pedestrian friendly streets. Many historic buildings were not open to the public during my visit, but it was nice to inspect their architectural prominence from the grounds and imagine it as it once was…a thriving tobacco port.

One of the most important homes in Yorktown is the Nelson House on Main Street. This was the home of Thomas Nelson, Jr., one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence and a commander of the Virginia Militia during the Siege of Yorktown. Much of the house has withstood the test of time and is original, including the bricks and most of the mortar in the outer walls. The interior boasts its original wall panels and most of its wooden floors. The home is filled with reproductions and a few period pieces obtained to show visitors how the Nelsons lived.

The Cole Digges House, also on Main Street, is one of mystery. Originally thought to have been constructed by Thomas Pate, a landowner during the period of 1699 to 1703, the house was thought to have been built in 1700, however there is no record of its construction. When Cole Digges, purchased the land in 1713, records show a home on the lot, however, the National Park Service claims that Digges built the home in the 1730s due to its style and tree-ring analysis showing that the wood in the home was harvested around that time. The home has undergone renovations over the years, retaining its characteristics from the alterations made by owners in 1921. Today, it operates as the Mobjack Bay Coffee Roasters store.

The Somerwell House is another home, near the Digges and Nelson houses, whose origins are uncertain. Named for Mungo Somerwell, owner of the property in the early 1700s. Purchased by Philip Lightfoot in 1716, and then known as the Lightfoot House, the National Park Service opted to go with the original owner’s name which points to a construction date between 1700 and 1707, making it the oldest house in Yorktown. It was once used as a visitor center and park headquarters, and now used as a rental property.

The Old Custom House, on the corner of Main and Read Streets, was built around 1720 by Customs Agent Richard Ambler, to secure import and export taxes and duties for the Port of Yorktown and is one of only twelve historic Customs Houses still remaining in the United States. This house is open to the public on Sundays from June to October and offers a museum.

A little further down the street, the Yorktown Victory Monument towers on the banks of the York River. Commemorating the American-French victory over the British during the Siege of Yorktown in 1781, which ended the American Revolution, the monument was designed by architects R.M. Hunt and Henry Van Brunt, sculpted by J.Q.A. Ward in 1881 and was completed three years later. The monument displays four high relief sculptures which depict military aspects of the American-French alliance. Thirty-eight stars on the column represent the thirty-eight states that were present at the time of the monuments erection, thirteen neoclassical female figures represent the thirteen original colonies and under them can be spied the saying, “One country, one constitution, one destiny.” The monument is crowned by Lady Liberty.

Backtracking to the center of town, I sought out the town’s one religious structure, Grace Episcopal Church. Built in 1697, the church has survived fire and two wars. As I walked among the graves, I witnessed numerous gravesites from some of Virginia’s most prominent families, including Thomas Nelson, Jr., a signer of the Declaration of Independence, Nicholas Martiau, George and Elizabeth Martiau Read, “Scotch” Tom Nelson and William Nelson.

Breathing in the salty air, I led it lead me down Church Street, finding myself on the waterfront facing Yorktown Beach. The day was relatively warm and I spied many families enjoying the sunny skies and picturesque views. I stopped for a moment, taking off my shoes so I could feel the sand between my toes and looked out over the river and at the George P. Coleman Memorial Bridge spanning its width.

Continuing my walk along the Riverwalk, I encountered the Historic Freight Shed which was constructed by the National Park Service in the 1930s to serve as a ferry terminal building between York and Gloucester and as a warehouse for freight being shipped from other ports. Once the Coleman Bridge was completed, the ferry service was suspended and the building was solely used for storage. In 1956, the building was remodeled to be used as a post office, however, the post office was relocated in 2000. The building was transferred from the National Park Service to York County and moved back from the river approximately 300 feet. Today it serves the area as a event venue.

Stopping for a moment, I studied the three statues in front of the Freight Shed. These statues pay tribute to the Marquis de Lafayette and the assistance given by France to General Washington during the Siege of Yorktown.

Though it was tempting to spend more time enjoying this beautiful town, it was getting late. The Riverwalk is a wonderful place to enjoy a meal, visit galleries and boutiques, listen to the sounds of the Fifes and Drums and other live entertainment or rent a bike, kayak or Segway and cruise the waterfront. Sadly, due to Covid, many of these things were not available. In addition to the waterfront area, there are so many things to see and do in Yorktown…a ride on the Schooner Alliance, ghost tours, the York County Historical Museum, the Poor Potter Archaeological Site, the Yorktown Baptist Church among them…if you are planning a visit, make sure to plan accordingly.

Finally, I began the uphill walk back to where I had began, passing the Swan Tavern a reconstruction of the main tavern from 1722 and York Hall, the former courthouse.

It is a great benefit to live so close to so many places that played such a significant part of our country’s history. While I couldn’t see everything in Yorktown on this day, there is nothing stopping me from the hour long drive on another.

I will be back.

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Yorktown

  • https://visityorktown.org/
  • Getting There: From I-95, Take I-64 East to VA-199 East/Colonial Parkway, Follow the Colonial Parkway to Yorktown, Turn left onto Water Street. Yorktown is 160 miles from Washington DC, 62 miles from Richmond and 12 miles from Williamsburg.

Nelson House

Cole Digges House

Somerwell House

The Old Customs House

  • Address: 410 Main Street, Yorktown, Virginia 23690, United States

Yorktown Victory Monument

Grace Episcopal Church

Historic Freight Shed

  • https://www.visityorktown.org/240/Freight-Shed
  • Address: 331 Water St, Yorktown, VA 23690, United States

A Place of Surrender

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If your interests lie in American history, then Virginia is the place to be.

With scores of battlefields, historical homes and buildings you can fill many days on your vacation or if you live there, like me, take field trips to occupy your unscheduled days.

On a beautiful fall afternoon, I found myself quite restless. I was tired of cleaning up after the dog, tired of watching Netflix and being off of work at that moment, definitely needing something different. Jumping in my car I headed east, knowing that there are many parks and places to visit along the way, I figured that I would just drive until inspiration hit.

Spotting the signs for Yorktown, I decided that since it was such a lovely day to be outside, checking out the battlefield would be perfect.

My arrival at the Visitor’s Center found it to be closed due to Covid restrictions, however, a park ranger was available outside to answer questions and assist with maps and ideas on how to tackle the immense battlefield area. Under normal circumstances, the Visitor Center is the perfect place to start your explorations with an orientation film, entitled “The Siege at Yorktown” and examine museum exhibits, which include the field tents used by General George Washington during battle and the campaign table used by British General Cornwallis. However, because the Visitor Center was closed, no fees were collected for my visit, a bonus!

Visitor’s Center

As I listened to the downloaded app on my phone, I learned that Yorktown was important in our nation’s history as this was the battle where American independence was won. On October 19, 1781, American and French armies led by General George Washington saw the surrender of the British forces under Lord Charles Cornwallis.

Although the British had chosen Yorktown for its deep water harbor and had fortified Yorktown, they were unprepared for the large army that arrived. George Washington had left New York with approximately 7,000 American and French troops and picked up nearly 8,000 more along the way. French Admiral Francois Joseph Paul de Grasse landed with a fleet of warships and an additional 3,000 troops, blockading the mouth of the York River. With no supplies and no reinforcements, Cornwallis found himself in peril and bound for a battle in which he was not ready.

The six-stop tour of Yorktown Battlefield was easy to navigate and led me to the most important spots on the battlefield, each marked with signs directing me from one stop to the next. Signs with red arrows were easy to follow for the Yorktown Battlefield tour and the yellow arrows for the Allied Encampment tour.

Beginning at Stop A, the British Inner Defense Line, I noted the preserved earthworks built by the British soldiers as defensive walls and many cannons, which are pointed in the direction where the American and French forces were positioned. In this area, are the remains of a small British fort (the Hornwork) and in the nearby field, the home of Thomas Nelson, a former Secretary of State for the Colony of Virginia. This home was used as Cornwallis’ headquarters until it was destroyed during the fighting.

Going out of order, my next stop (C) was the Second Allied Siege Line which ran all the way to the York River in the east. Parking in the adjacent lot, I took a walk along the pathways which bordered the earthworks and again, spied many cannons.

At Stop B, the Grand French Battery, I learned that the earthworks here are reconstructions. When the originals were leveled and had eroded, the National Park Service built the current fortifications in the exact location of the originals. There is a Howitzer and a mortar near the parking area and a footbridge and another information panel which describes the various artillery pieces.

Rather than return to the main road near the Visitor Center and Stops D and E, I decided to continue along Surrender Road toward the encampments. The six-stop tour of the Allied Encampment area gives visitors an overview of the areas that the American and French troops used for spending time, sleeping, drilling and storing artillery and other equipment. A beautiful drive through the woods, there wasn’t much to see besides the natural beauty of the area including wetlands and large open fields; a vivid imagination is required. Occasional signs enlighten visitors as to the locations of the French Hospital, the Headquarters Site of the Quartermaster General, the Headquarters Site of Henry Knox, Beaver Dam Creek, Washington’s Headquarters and the French Encampment. I discovered the Essex Lodge Cemetery and the French Cemetery, marked by a simple cross in memory of about fifty unidentified French soldiers killed during the Siege of Yorktown. There were a few cannons, both American and French, along the way, many in the French Artillery Park.

Heading back towards the York River, I made my way to Stop D, Redoubts 9 and 10. The earthworks that made up the British inner defenses was anchored by earthen forts as its outer defenses. These redoubts, located on the banks of the river, were stormed by the French and American forces on the night of October 14, 1781 and captured within thirty minutes. The devastation to the British position was so great that the next day, Cornwallis called for a cease fire and surrender talks began. Both forts have been reconstructed by the National Park Service and artillery representing the large American battery are on display along the siege line which runs behind the redoubt.

On the way to Stop E, I encountered the Wormley Pond Dam, built by Augustine Moore to power his grist mill. American troops marched over the dam regularly as they moved to and from the Siege line. The Moore House, the next stop on the tour, was not open to visitors but its grounds were available for inspection. This was the location where after Cornwallis asked for a cease fire and the talks for surrender terms were negotiated on October 18, 1781. Washington and Cornwallis were not present, however, each sent two representatives; for the British, Lieutenant Colonel Thomas Dundas and Major Alexander Ross and for the American-French alliance, Lieutenant Colonel John Laurens and Colonel Viscount de Noailles. An agreement was reached that night.

The Moore House was almost destroyed during the Civil War and has been renovated many times by the National Park Service. Although very little of the house remains from 1781, it was restored to its 1781 appearance based on drawings and descriptions from the time. The house is furnished with reproductions and antiques from the time period and it is not known which room was used to sign the surrender documents, although it is believed to have been the parlor. During normal operations, the house is open during various times from April through October and often rangers are present at the house to answer questions.

Finally, I made my way to the last stop on the tour, Stop F, Surrender Field, the location where 7,000 British soldiers abdicated to the American and French armies on October 19, 1781.

During a time when surrendering with dignity was so important, it was a great insult to Cornwallis that the Americans would not let him do so. Consider it payback that when the British had captured Charleston, the Americans were not allowed to surrender with honor. Negotiations lasted day and night at the Moore House, however, the British had to finally agree or continue to endure the battering from the French and American artillery. Claiming illness, Cornwallis did not attend the surrender.

From the parking area, you can follow a paved path which leads to an observation deck that looks out over the still intact field and an audio presentation can be accessed by the push of a button. Leaving the observation deck, follow the walkway and check out the display of surrendered artillery pieces which were engraved to mark the historic occasion. 12,000 muskets and 244 artillery pieces were relinquished by the British and 250 artillery pieces were engraved and given to various dignitaries.

The two historic trails are a wonderful way to spend an afternoon, learning about one of the most important events in our nation’s history. Not only can you see the locations of some of the fiercest battles, but you can spend the day in nature possibly spotting bald eagles, osprey, woodland birds, deer, groundhogs and squirrels. After a day on the battlefield, head over to the town of Yorktown and discover more of the area’s history.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Yorktown Battlefield National Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/york/index.htm
  • Address: 1000 Colonial Parkway, Yorktown, Virginia 23690
  • Hours: Park grounds and tour roads, open from sunrise to sunset. Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center is open for access to the Eastern National bookstore, open Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1600. The theater and exhibit areas are currently closed. The Moore House, The Nelson House, The Cemetery Lodge and the Poor Potter are closed but grounds open for visitation.
  • Admission: Adults aged 15 and over, $15.00. Admission is valid for 7 days and provides access to the following resources managed by Colonial National Historical Park: Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center Museum and Battlefield Tour Roads, Jamestown Visitor Center, Glasshouse and Island Drive Tour Road.
  • Getting There: From eastbound I-64, take exit 242B for Yorktown, to the Colonial Parkway. Follow the parkway to its end. From westbound I-64, take exit 250B for Route 105 East (Fort Eustis Boulevard east) to Route 17 (George Washington Memorial Highway). Turn left (North) onto Route 17. Follow the signs to the Yorktown Battlefield.

Castle Rock

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Across the James River, less than half a mile from the Belmead mansion, lies St. Francis de Sales.

Sad, neglected and slowly succumbing to the passage of time.

Built by enslaved people in the 1800s, the Belmead plantation was eventually converted to both a school for boys, St. Emma Military Academy, housed in the Belmead mansion and St. Francis de Sales School for Girls which offered educations for Native and African American students. These schools were established by Mother Katherine Drexel, a former heiress and socialite who devoted her life to the church and later went on to become one of only two American Roman Catholic saints. The girl’s school was named for Drexel’s father, Francis, and often referred to as Castle Rock…a castle to the girls that resided there and a foundation (rock) for their futures.

Both schools were closed in 1970 and since this time, the buildings have fallen into disrepair.

Visiting with a tour organized by local photographer John Plaschal, I had already done a full exploration of the Belmead mansion and its surrounding property. I headed to St. Francis de Sales, having to take the long way around with the James River bridge outage. Parking in the lot adjacent to the former school, I made my way through the opening in the gate, heading to the front of the building. The back was a bit lackluster, but it was the Gothic facade was what I wanted most to see.

Part of the front of the building had collapsed in the past few years and this made for some interesting photography, but the part I was most excited about was the church. With its arched doorway, capped with a splendid stained glass window and statue of its namesake, St. Francis de Sales, it was breathtaking. Creeping vines covered the façade, some still in bloom, and an occasional window was shattered, allowing the outside to venture in.

Waiting my turn, I finally entered the doorway. The narthex was enclosed by a low barrier and I had to be content to view the entire church from this viewpoint. It was obvious that mass had not been celebrated here in some time. There were two pews in front of the altar which appeared to be waiting for the worshipers of the past. The vaulted ceiling rose above and it looked as if great portions of it had fallen, leaving only the beams visible. What I loved most, however, were the colorful stained glass windows, visible on the left side of the church.

An agreement had been made with the current owner to allow visitors to venture no further than this point, due to the current state of the property. It was sad, as I would have liked to inspect each part of the church more intimately and especially to look back towards the choir to see the light filtering through the stained glass window above the doorway.

Walking completely around the building, I paid attention to the numerous architectural details while making my way toward the former art studio. The doorway was open and I spied blank chalkboards, empty shelves and tables and chairs covered in the crumbling debris from the aged ceiling.

The back of the building was in especially atrocious shape with the right side collapsing from the main structure. I was able to make my way closer, however, to see the balconied areas and vine-covered entrance. The rusty fire escapes still clung to the back of the building and I could only imagine the occasional student’s attempts to venture out using these dilapidated steps when curfew was upon them.

Following the path behind the school, I inspected the tall chimney and an abandoned building. An old gas pump stood neglected in the weeds nearby and I wondered if equipment used at the school was stored there at one time.

Continuing on the path through the woods, I admired the changing leaves and tall trees that lined the path. Eventually, I encountered a low wall, a landmark that I had been instructed to look for. Just beyond, I found the small, humpback bridge that crossed the small creek. I photographed every angle, even stepping down into the creek bed to see it from below, while the water coursed past my feet.

My journey back to the main building seemed much quicker and I sought out some of the other buildings on the property. Finally, eyeing the darkening sky, I jumped into my car and made my way to the main road. There was, however, a stop I had to make along the way.

The nun’s cemetery.

John, aware of my love of cemeteries, insisted that I visit on my way out and described the landmarks that I needed to navigate the area successfully. Pulling my car over to the shoulder, I headed into the darkening forest.

Now, I have watched enough scary movies to ask myself, “Why are you going into the forest…at dusk…by yourself…looking for a cemetery?”

Still, I ventured on, finding what then made sense as I saw it…a tree tunnel. Well, it was more like evergreen bushes trained to grow into a shape that resembled a tunnel, but instead of walking around it, I heeded my instructions and overcame my fear of the creepy crawlies that probably resided there. Moving quickly through it, I continually eyed the light at the end. “Come to the light,” it called, evoking memories of supernatural movies where the dead passed on, heading towards a bright aurora. That thought was applicable, as when I stepped out, it was there that I found the nun’s cemetery.

About eleven small headstones, marking the final resting place of the nuns that resided there, were scattered around the overgrown graveyard. In the moment, I was more concerned with snakes, than ghosts, so I headed back to the path.

Continuing on into the ever-growing gloom, I passed through a gate and found the children’s cemetery. Now, if dead nuns don’t make you scared, dead children might…especially in the dark.

I made quick work of photographing the small burial ground and finally, returned as quickly as I had come…maybe quicker!

A successful day of photography, both the Belmead and St. Francis de Sales, although, shadows of their former selves, make for stunning architectural subjects. It is good to know, however, that both buildings have been recently purchased by a new owner and a foundation has been established in an effort to restore and reuse the buildings.

Possibly one day, after renovations, everyone may have the opportunity to see these stunning pieces, reminders of time gone by.

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St. Francis de Sales

  • Address: 3500 St. Emma Drive, Powhatan, Virginia 23139
  • Admission: Admitted by invitation only
  • Hours: No regular hours

John Plaschal Photography

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The Eye of the Beholder

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Just because ruin has befallen something doesn’t mean it isn’t still beautiful.

The Belmead on the James dates back to 1845 when renowned American architect Alexander Jackson Davis, designed it for an eventual Civil War Brigadier General, Colonal Philip St. George Cocke. The Gothic Revival style plantation home was was built by enslaved people and set on 2,265 of rolling acres in Virginia’s historic Powhatan.

Now, here’s the part that the Catholic schoolgirl in me, gets excited…

In 1897, the Belmead was purchased by Mother Katharine Drexel, one of only two American-born Roman Catholic saints, and her sister, both nuns. The Sisters of the Blessed Sacrament transformed the plantation into two private schools, St. Francis de Sales, in a nearby Gothic towered building and St. Emma Agricultural and Industrial Institute on the Belmead property, both devoted to educating young African American and Native American students. Many distinguished students hailed from the two schools, including members of the world-class Tuskegee Airmen and Civil Rights leaders.

The school remained in operation until the 1970s. Most of the more than forty school buildings were destroyed, but three of the major historic structures still stand today. The Belmead mansion, a stone granary and St. Francis de Sales High School have fallen into disrepair, but one must always remember that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

The photographer that set up the President’s Heads photo shoot that I had recently attended, John Plaschal, has an affinity for deterioration. Not only has he made a quite a name for himself by regularly attracting visitors to these presidential capitulums, he hosts weekend shoots at the historic sites of the Belmead and St. Francis de Sales.

The mansion is not ordinarily open to the general public, only through a partnership with John Plaschal photography, and it was truly a blessing to see it as in its current condition, it seems that its days may be numbered.

Beginning my exploration in the basement, I made my way through its ominous, darkened hallways and rooms, noting the closed-off stairways and ferns growing from the floors.

The main floor showcased many rooms including a kitchen, a sitting room and a library. Of particular fascination was the parlor, where a giant mirror lay in pieces on the floor in front of the fireplace. Though no one had been in the house since John’s last visit, it was considered odd that the mirror had fallen on its own from its secure place on the wall, its hook still in place. John explained that it is believed that the house is haunted by its original owner and they assumed that he may have been the cause. Though I never felt anything strange presences while in the building, I wouldn’t count the possibility out as with the case in many aged buildings.

As I made my way up the circular staircase, I was struck by how sad this once grand estate felt. The busted doors, cracked walls and what remained of the outdated interior finishings depicted a mere shadow of its former self.

Once I had finished my tour of the home, I made my way to the outside to analyze its facade. The colorful, diamond-shaped etched and stained glass windows highlighted its walls and numerous chimneys graced its roofline. The rear of the building, with its covered entryway, was where I began my investigation, but it was the front of the mansion that was the most captivating with its gothic tower.

Next, I headed to the nearby cemetery, Memorial Circle and the overgrown water tower all nestled deep in the woods. Alone on the dirt road, surrounded by a dense thicket of trees, it was a bit creepy knowing that just down the way was the location where a Halloween haunted drive was being set up for a scary night’s festivities. I have watched enough horror movies to know that these types of locations are where things go awry! The Memorial Circle was extremely weird with random pieces of yard furniture and decaying statues were displayed amongst the natural landscape. I made quick work of photographing the area and walked briskly back to the Belmead, breathing a sigh of relief when I reached the crumbling amphitheater.

Making my way back toward the house, I got into my car and drove past the front of the mansion towards the granary. Parking my car once again, I made my way around the granary and through the barn. There were some interesting old pieces of farm equipment and old gas pumps on the premises as well as old signs collecting dust inside of the barn.

Finally, I decided to head to the much anticipated St. Francis de Sales. As I was headed back to the main road, crossing an old bridge, I spied a cemetery on the left side of the road. Pulling over, I walked up the hill to explore the historic cemetery located there. Deeply moved, I wandered around amongst the rusting, simple white crosses that dotted the landscape. These were the graves of the people who created the Belmead plantation. Noting a plaque attached to a large boulder, I learned that these graves dated back as far as 1853 and contained both young and old. Their work of art was crumbling much the same as their grave markers.

It was sad to see a once beautiful property aging very ungracefully, yet it was exciting to be able to be one of the few allowed to experience it and to be able to capture its fading beauty. Maybe with enough attention, helped along by John Plaschal, some historic society will be able to restore it once again.

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Belmead on the James

  • Address: 4599 Cosby Road, Powhatan, VA 23139
  • Admission: Admitted by invitation only
  • Hours: No regular hours

John Plaschal Photography

A Gift To the City

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Having been away from work for a while, due to the Covid restrictions, I was desperately craving different scenery. As a flight attendant, I am used to spending my weekends in some far away city, dining in the piazzas, walking the streets and soaking up the culture.

Deciding to tackle some local attractions, I headed over to Maymont park to walk around for some sunshine, fresh air and exercise. While I had visited this park on many occasions in the past, I had forgotten how some parts could transport me to other locales.

One of Richmond’s and the state’s greatest treasures, the 100 acre park was the home of millionaires James and Sallie Dooley at the turn of the century. The couple lived on this land from 1893 until 1925 in their Romanesque mansion, surrounded by magnificent gardens and landscapes.

My fascination with James and Sallie Dooley, began during the first time that I visited their mansion many years ago. Why? My maiden name is Dooley and as I walked around their beautiful home, it was fun to imagine that they were distant relatives of mine and I was visiting their homestead. This time around, I was able to walk around the exterior of their mansion, but unfortunately it was not open to visitors. The periphery, however, is worthy of inspection, especially for architecture buffs like me! It is a stunning structure and surrounded by some beautiful sculptural pieces, the family mausoleum and the Dooley garage and stable, which features antique buggies and carriages.

Mausoleum
Dooley Garage and Stable

Heading down the hill, past the fountain court and stone barn, I began to feel as if I had departed my home country and landed in Italy. Though the Dooleys had commissioned English pastoral gardens around their home, this part of their estate, was more formal, featuring stonework, statuary, gazebos, fountains and beautiful flowers, shrubs and trees. This classical style, developed in the 15th and 16th century can be spotted throughout Italy and more specifically at Villa Torlonia, near Rome.

Fountain Court
Stone Barn

A long pergola stretches along the northern edge of the garden and the garden is laid out in many levels below. At this point, the Dooleys could even spy the mighty James River out in the distance when it was first constructed. From this overlook stretches a stunning cascading fountain which feeds into a waterfall. There is a beautiful classical gazebo, imported from Italy, and I was told that it is quite lovely in the spring when surrounded by the blossoming peonies.

Making my way down the steps of the cascading fountain, I was disappointed to find that it was not in operation, but at the end, I was excited to glance upward at its magnificence and further down the path, find the entrance to the Japanese gardens.

The Japanese gardens have always been my favorite and the site of many picnics with my children during their younger days. When I am there, I truly feel as though I am in Japan.

Its nice to take a stroll on the gravel paths around the pond and admire the statuary, grotto and Japanese structures that rest near or over the water. I still fondly remember my boys jumping from stone to stone on the pathway across the pond and running across the wooden bridge near the base of the waterfall.

Exiting the gardens, I headed toward the part of the park where the wild animals are housed. Sometimes the black bear is not visible, but on this day, he was pacing back and forth along the wall and I was able to see him quite well. The Raptors and Bobcat exhibits were closed off due to spacing requirements so I continued along the path toward the Children’s Farm.

The horses and cows were grazing in the pastures and the vegetable garden was in full bloom. The sheep were out in their yard and I remembered how much my children loved to go to the petting zoo. The bison, my personal favorites, however, were nowhere to be seen within their enclosure.

The Robins Nature Center was not open on the day that I was here, but I thought back to the field trips in which we visited this facility. There are many interesting exhibits which highlight animals of the James River and Chesapeake Bay. One of the featured favorites are the otters, which reside in their own beaver lodge. The 30,000 gallon aquariums showcase a great number of aquatic animals which reside in the waters of the state. Over 45,000 guests visit the center annually, including tens of thousands of local students.

Robins Nature Center

As I made my way, full circle, back to my starting point, I relished the beauty around me…small creeks, large trees and rolling hills. It must have been a spectacular place for the Dooleys to call home and truly a special gift for them to bequeath to the city of Richmond.

Though the admission price is only suggested and visitors can enter the park freely, remember the generosity of the Dooleys and give back to the city to help maintain what the Dooleys gave to the city.

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Maymont

  • https://maymont.org/
  • Address: 1700 Hampton St, Richmond, VA 23220
  • Hours: Grounds and Gardens, April to September, 1000-1900, October to March, 1000-1700. Farm and Wildlife habitat, 1000-1700. The Robins Nature Center, Saturday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Carriage Collection, Tuesday-Sunday, 1200-1700. Maymont Mansion, temporarily closed.
  • Admission: Suggested admission, $5.00. Robins Nature Center, $8.00 (ages 13-64), $6 (ages 3-12), free (under 2 years).

Virginia Is For Nature Lovers

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

With thirty-eight state parks and nineteen national park service sites, Virginia is the place to be if you want to see the great outdoors! From coastal regions on the east and mountains on the west, there is something for everyone.

A popular slogan advertises that Virginia Is For Lovers and while that may be true, with all of these outdoor opportunities, I really think that Virginia Is For Nature Lovers!

During the cooler Fall months, I love to head to the mountains for a little camping and hiking. The Blue Ridge mountains are one of my favorite places with numerous campsites and over forty-nine marked trails with skill levels from easy to strenuous, including the renowned Appalachian Trail stretching from Georgia to Maine.

Sitting around on a beautiful Sunday morning, I realized that the outdoors was beckoning. Requesting recommendations from my son, an avid hiker, gave me the trail name, Humpback Rocks.

Hopping on the highway, we enjoyed the light traffic and sunny weather as we drove from Richmond past Charlottesville. Finally exiting, we drove along the Blue Ridge Parkway toward the Visitor’s Center parking lot. Many people park in the lot at the trailhead or along the road near that lot, however, even though the Visitor Center and its museum exhibits about mountain life were closed, I wanted to walk through the historic farm which lies between the Visitor Center and the trailheads.

Visitor’s Center

A wide, gravel trail took us amidst some log cabin structures, including a house, storage shed/barn and wellhouse. These were not open to visitors, however, you could see into the shed/barn if you are interested in its construction. The trail is only a quarter mile and reminiscent of an 1890’s mountain farm. During the summer months you can find costumed guides giving demonstrations on the way of Appalachian mountain life at the turn of the 20th century.

Cabin
Storage Shed/Barn
Secondary Structure
Wellhouse

Crossing the road, we followed others to the second parking lot where the trailheads began. Noticing two trails, we had to first make a phone call to my son to see which one was correct. Well…they both were. One would take us the long way around, on the Humpback Rocks Loop and the other to Humpback Rocks, more strenuous but only a short one-mile.

Don’t let that one-mile fool you.

The majority of the hike was uphill on the blue-blazed trail. Since having had given up my gym membership during the past few months, I found myself a little slow and breathing heavy, so we opted to take it in small sections, resting after each. The second half of the hike was the hardest with a 700-foot climb, zig-zagging back and forth, climbing over slippery rocks, large tree roots and muddy areas. As difficult as it was, we plodded on until finally, we heard many voices and reached a rocky area. Joining these other climbers onto Humpback Rocks, we were rewarded with spectacular views of the Rockfish and Shenandoah Valleys.

Grabbing a seat on an interior flattened area we enjoyed our water and snacks while basking in the beauty below and the warmth of the afternoon’s favorable temperatures. I must admit, however, being up that high was a bit disconcerting and as tempting as it was to get near the edge for that Instagram-worthy selfie, we both kept our distance.

Finally, we decided that our shaky legs had recovered enough to make the trip back down, which was considerably a bit easier. We decided that rewards were due for all of this effort!

Checking the internet, we discovered that there were many local breweries a short drive away. Now this was my idea of a good day…exercise followed by a good craft beer!

Settling on Blue Mountain Brewery, we arrived to find the extensive outdoor seating almost to capacity. Grabbing a spot at one of the umbrella-covered picnic tables, we quickly scanned the beer menu to find a thirst-quenching selection. Having a hard time making a decision, I decided on eight!

Okay, so it was eight tiny beers…a flight…but it gave me an incredible overview of the offerings at this particular brewery. Resting our weary legs, we were reveling in the picturesque scenery around us and enjoying our libations so much that we decided to stay and have dinner.

Though we didn’t have this plan when we first awakened during that morning, I’m glad that we decided to make the drive and give it ago. It was worth every step and every drop!

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Humpback Rocks and Blue Ridge Parkway Trails

Blue Mountain Brewery

At Marye’s Heights

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

More than 100,000 casualties occurred within a twenty mile radius of Fredericksburg during Civil War battles. As a result, more than 15,000 Union soldiers found their final resting place in the Fredericksburg National Cemetery.

After four major battles, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, Wilderness, and Spotsylvania Court House, the remains of deceased Union and Confederate soldiers were buried in shallow, often unmarked graves around the battlefields. It was deemed necessary that a national cemetery at Fredericksburg be established to provide a proper burial site for these soldiers.

The Fredericksburg National Cemetery, part of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania Country Battlefields Memorial National Military Park is located southwest of the city’s historic downtown in Marye’s Heights, a Confederate stronghold during the Battle of Fredericksburg. It was constructed in 1866 and is one of fourteen national cemeteries managed by the National Park Service.

Parking near the Visitor’s Center at the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park, we found it to be closed and its exterior and surroundings under construction. Thinking that we would take a walk on the trail that lead from this location, we ducked into the Museum Shop to obtain a map. Finding the trail to be extensive and because it was the end of the day, we decided to take a walk through the cemetery instead.

Following the natural contour of the landscape, we walked uphill, noting some of the monuments dedicated to Union soldiers and officers such as the Fifth Corps Monument, which honors the service of the corps and the Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch, commemorating the officer who was killed while leading his regiment of 83rd New York Volunteers in the Battle of Wilderness. In the center of the cemetery, we found the Humphrey’s Division Monument, surrounded by upright cannons. This monument honors the men under General Humphrey that led an unsuccessful attack on Confederate troops holding Marye’s Heights. Over 1,000 soldiers were killed or wounded in this engagement.

Fifth Corps Monument
Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch
Monument to the 127th Regiment of the Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry
Humphrey’s Division Monument
Humphrey’s Division Monument

Other small markers were scattered throughout the cemetery. Though bearing no names, they offered a longer number followed by another smaller number. While over 15,000 soldiers are interred here, only 2,473 were identified and these are the graves of the unknown. The upper number identifies the plot, while the second number identifies the number of soldiers buried in that plot. The soldiers that were identified are buried in individual graves, marked with a rounded headstone bearing the soldier’s name and state.

The cemetery is also the final resting place for an additional three hundred veterans of the Spanish-American War, World War I and World War II.

Though no music can be heard during our visit, the beat of a poem surrounded us. Near the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Monument, and throughout the cemetery, we noticed plaques containing verses from Theordore O’Hara’s, “The Bivouac of the Dead” (1847), which commemorated the American dead at the Battle of Buena Vista, from the Mexican-American War.

The muffled drum’s sad roll has beat
The soldier’s last Tattoo;
No more on life’s parade shall meet
That brave and fallen few.
On fame’s eternal camping ground
Their silent tents to spread,
And glory guards, with solemn round
The bivouac of the dead.
No rumor of the foe’s advance

Now swells upon the wind;
Nor troubled thought at midnight haunts
Of loved ones left behind;
No vision of the morrow’s strife
The warrior’s dreams alarms;
No braying horn or screaming fife
At dawn shall call to arms.
Rest on, embalmed and sainted dead,
Dear as the blood ye gave,
No impious footstep here shall tread
The herbage of your grave.



A powerful testament to those who gave their lives during these tumultuous times.

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Fredericksburg National Cemetery
https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/national_cemeteries/virginia/Fredericksburg_National_Cemetery.html
Address: 1013 Lafayette Boulevard, Fredericksburg, Virginia 22401
Hours: Dawn to dusk
Admission: free

 

Growing Up George

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Most Americans know that our nation’s first President was George Washington and that his residence, Mount Vernon, is located south of Washington D.C., on the banks of the Potomac River.

Having visited Mount Vernon with my children on various school field trips, I was intrigued with the how beautiful the estate and its grounds were and although I was aware that this was Washington’s home, I never thought about how long he lived there. Although he and his wife Martha made it their home until his death, I guess I always assumed that he also grew up there.

Recently, when visiting Fredericksburg, I found myself on Kings Highway. Noticing a historical sign directing visitors to George Washington’s boyhood home, I initially dismissed it assuming it was Mount Vernon. When I happened to see another sign directing me to the entrance, I realized that I was not near Mount Vernon and this was something entirely different.

This was Ferry Farm.

Located on the banks of the Rappahannock River, Ferry Farm, as it was later named, was George Washington’s home from the age of six years until his twenties. The Washington family purchased the farm in 1738 and it was here where George Washington spent his formative years and the place where most people believe he chopped down the infamous cherry tree.

Visitor’s Center

Purchasing a ticket, I walked in the garden for a few minutes before heading out to the area where the replica of the home stands. During my tour, learned that in 1740, the Washington family home was destroyed by fire, however, during excavations in 2008, archaeologists uncovered remains that led them to realize that this was the location of the family home. In 2015, the George Washington Foundation began constructing a replica on the site of the original building and it was opened to the public in 2018.

Path from Visitor’s Center to House
Surveyor’s Shed

Though no one knows what the farm was called during the years that the Washington family occupied the home, it later came to be known as Ferry Farm, because of the free ferry (not owned by the family) that crossed the river on the family’s land.

Replica of the Washington family home

After an introduction by the tour guide, we were led through the home which was built using eighteenth century building techniques. The tour which took us through the first floor, introduced us to reproductions of the furniture and objects listed in George’s father, Augustine Washington’s, probate inventory when he died in 1743. Unlike many other historical tours, because these are all reproductions, we were encouraged to interact with the objects while being regaled with stories about the family’s life.

Once the tour was complete, I ventured outside and down to the river to where the ferry once departed the banks of the river to make its crossing. From here, the view of the home sitting on the hill, was breathtaking and you could almost imagine a young George and his siblings running down the steep slope or sledding down during the winter!

Making my way back up the stairs, I spotted a tent, situated not far from the house. Archaeologists were excavating another site on the property and I was told that there have been prehistoric artifacts such as spear points, stone axes and numerous other tools tied to the American Indians that once made their home on the land found here. During the Civil War in 1862, the areas near the farm were the site of skirmishes between Confederate and Union armies. The farm was used by Union soldiers as a campground and although much of the farm was destroyed, a surveyor’s shed was constructed and is one on the only remaining structures from this time frame that can be seen today. In addition, archaeologists have found many items from the Civil War occupation that can be seen in the museum at the front of the property such as bullets, ink bottles, button and medallions from uniforms. Other interesting artifacts that can be inspected are 18th century wig hair curlers. The Georgian-style inspired museum and archaeological lab also houses the ticket office/visitor’s center and was not open for visitation.

Since Ferry Farm has only been open since 2018 and a new historical attraction, I do think that it is worth returning at a later date. A new visitor’s center is in the works and every year, visitors come for the celebration of Washington’s birthday. While everyone knows the cherry tree story, which is believed to have happened here, it is also claimed to be the site where George Washington skipped a silver dollar across the Rappahannock River. The river was wider then than it is today, making it a much harder feat, but all who attend are invited to recreate this event.

Wonder if there will be any tree chopping competitions too?

George Washington not only led an interesting adult life, but an interesting younger one as well.

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Ferry Farm

  • https://kenmore.org/visit-ferry-farm/
  • Address: 268 Kings Highway, Fredericksburg, Virginia 22405
  • Hours: March to October, Monday to Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday, 1200-1700, November and February, Monday to Saturday, 1000-1600, Sunday, 1200-1600
  • Admission: Adults, $1200, Students (ages 6 and up), $6.00, Children (ages 5 and under), free