Category: Naxos

The Grand Finale

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Naxos was such an unexpected pleasure.

When we had made the decision to visit a couple of the Greek islands, Naxos was definitely not on my radar. If it had not been for the suggestion of a friend, I am not even sure that we would have chosen it over the many others that dot the Aegean Sea.

That being said, we had done and seen most of what we had set out to and enjoyed every bit of it, however, I still felt as though there was more to be discovered.

After our trip to the islet of Palatia to see Apollo’s Temple, my husband and son decided to head to the hotel for a nap before our ferry’s departure that afternoon. Camera in hand, I headed back into the alleys and pathways to see what more I could find in Naxos’ Old Town.

Now when I think back to our time in Naxos, I fondly remember the beautiful mountains and beaches, but what stands out in my mind is the intricacies of the Old Town. I absolutely adored just wandering the narrow passageways and picturesque harbor, discovering a photo around every corner.

As I headed past the port to make my way back up the hill, I noticed a modest, white-washed church standing alone on a small island. Panagia Myrtidiotissa is a small chapel built by the fishermen of Tsirigo and Kythira who survived a storm outside of Naxos and is only accessible by boat. As I sat on a bench, wishing I could make my way there, I watched a fisherman work on his vessel, all the while under the protecting eye of this historic church. If you happen to be in Naxos on September 24, make sure to not miss the celebratory feast honoring the church and the mariners of the island.

Knowing that we had missed the Catholic Church’s opening times the day before, I headed up the hill, in that direction, and discovered that I was still a bit early.

Around the corner, however, I noticed a sign directing me to the Casazza Chapel or the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos). Only having to wait a few minutes for its opening, I entered a beautifully decorated structure. Since I wasn’t sure of the history of the chapel, it was fortunate that the woman who unlocked the doors for us was an American and we could speak freely. She explained that the chapel was built in the 13th or 14th century by Duke Markos Sanoudos and continued to operate as the chapel of all Dukes of Naxos. Completed in 1680, the chapel was dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin and later operated as the church of the Jesuits upon their arrival.

Leaving the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos, I passed near a doorway where an older gentleman was sitting. He beckoned to me and invited me in. Not sure what I was being invited to see (and a little nervous), I entered and found a small Orthodox chapel. It was colorful and well appointed even though occupying such a tiny space. Though I never learned what this chapel was, as he did not speak English, I could tell that he was proud of it and as I watched, he continued to invited all passersby to step in and admire the chapel.

Finally, making my way back to the cathedral in the central square, I found it open and entered eagerly. Though the church is relatively small, it is the most important temple of the castle in Naxos.

Exhibiting Byzantine and Western influences, the cathedral was built in the 13th century. There are some small chapels within the five-aisled, three domed structure and the floor is constructed of marble embossed with the coat of arms of the Duke of Naxos. The central aisle boasts an wood altar crafted by Tagiadoroi from Chios from 1774 and a painting of the Panagia Eleousa (Our Lady the Merciful) dating from the 11th or 12th century.

As you examine the outside of the cathedral, make sure to take note of the four coats of arms, including those of Markos Sanoudos, and the striking bell tower constructed in 1963 by John Filippoti.

Other notable religious buildings in the area include the building of the Catholic Archdiocese (13th century) which houses a collection of architectural parts, relics, folklore material, engravings, icons and ecclesiastical utensils, the old Jesuit Commercial School and the old Ursaline Academy for Girls.

Continuing my adventure through the maze of walkways and paths of the Old Town, I meandered slowly examining stairways, door knockers, signs, souvenirs, artwork, cafes, archways and even found an art gallery showcasing the work of my old friend, Yanni Souvatzoglou, an Athens sculpture artist.

As time dissolved quickly, I knew that I would have to return to the hotel so that we could catch our ferry back to Athens, however, there was just enough time to see one last thing…the Orthodox Cathedral.

The Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos was constructed in 1787 on the site of a smaller church and is dedicated to Zoodochos Pigi, the life-giving Virgin Mary. The cathedral was constructed using materials from other buildings including some ancient temples and it is said that the solid granite pillars were brought from the ruins of Delos.

As I entered the cathedral, I breathed in deeply, taking in the extravagance before me. The excitement of capturing it all was short-lived as I was told that photography was not allowed.

A few, well-placed shots were definitely going to be taken and I made my way around the church admiring the intricate wall paintings and the beautiful icons dating back to Turkish times as well as the Gospel Book, which according to custom, was a present from Catherine the Great of Russia.

Finally, it was time for our time in Naxos to come to an end. As we walked through the town toward the ferry terminal, I took one last look around at the city, the boats in the harbor and the fresh catch of the day drying in the sun.

We would definitely miss this Greek Island that we had grown to love during our short stay. Coming here was definitely unexpected but after seeking out many of the things that make it so special, we were extremely happy that we had taken the chance.

Unexpected and now not unexplored, by us anyway!

The grand finale just whetted our appetite for more…we will be back!

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Panagia Myrtidiotissa

  • Address: Naxos Port, Naxos Town 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: free

Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos or Casazza Chapel )

Catholic Cathedral of Naxos

Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos

Yanni Souvatzoglou

Apollo’s Doorway

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Cruising into the Naxos harbor, you don’t have to go very far to see a piece of Greek history and architecture.

Greeting visitors to its island, is the Portara, the portal to the temple of Apollo, standing on the islet of Palatia.

The temple’s construction was started around 530 BC, when Lygdamis, the tyrant of Naxos, made the decision to build the highest and most magnificent building in all of Greece devoted to the honor of Apollo, the Greek God and protector of music and poets. After war broke out, work was halted and never completed.

After the temple’s marble was harvested for the Castle of Naxos, the doorway was deemed too heavy to dismantle and relocate, leaving a prodigious example of early Greek architecture to be studied and enjoyed by both visitors and locals for thousands of years to come.

Though we had spied the beautiful doorway as our ferry sailed into port, it wasn’t until our last day in Naxos that we finally made the walk across the causeway that connects the islet to Naxos.

Making our way up the steep path, we were eager to reach the pinnacle, but it was also essential to stop and enjoy the views of the blue Naxian waters, nearby Paros and the Naxian coastline in the distance.

As we made the summit, the remains of the temple spread out all around us with the Portara in the centrum. Staring through this vestibule at the white-washed city beyond it, I wondered if we should have come here during the evenings when we spied large numbers of visitors holding court awaiting the setting sun’s final descent beyond the island of Paros.

Yes, I think we should have.

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Portara Gate/Temple of Apollo

  • Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Big Fat Greek Island

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As Greek sunshine flooded our Naxos hotel room, we opened our balcony doors and looked out into the quiet streets, breathing in the salty sea air. It’s amazing to be in the Greek Isles!

After a quick breakfast, we headed into town to explore the multitude of passageways that headed uphill and the Venetian castle that keeps watch over the town. Because of the early hour, many of the shops we passed were not open and as we neared the castle, I was surprised to find it was not the typical castle that I had visited in other cities. What I mean is that I expected a ticket booth and an actual entrance into the fortification. This castle can be accessed wholly without a ticket and if you aren’t really paying attention, you might miss the fact that you are actually on the castle’s grounds as there are so many buildings that make up the complex.

That being said, the castle of Chora is a medieval monument, built by Venetian Duke Markos Sanoudos in 1207. It has two entrances, the Great Gate (Trani Porta) and the Wicket (Paraporti). Inside the castle, there are many medieval buildings such as the boarding school of the Ursulines, the School of Commerce founded by the Jesuit monks, the Kapela Kazatza, a chapel of the Duke, the Catholic Cathedral and the Tower of Krispi or Glezos (housing the Byzantine Museum).

It was an amazing adventure to travel amidst the winding passageways, that snake between the homes, shop and restaurants that make up this area. And believe me…it was not easy making progress as there was a picture to be taken at every turn!

Knowing that there was so much more to see on the island, we headed to a car rental shop and secured a car for the day. Getting out of the city was a bit of a challenge, but once we had traveled a few miles, it was fairly easy navigation.

Traveling through the western part of the island, we passed near the salt lakes where hundreds of windsurfers and kitesurfers meet each day to test their skill. In this area, we also were aware that there were many beautiful beaches, however, our mission was to explore the interior of the island before laying down our towels in the sun.

As we drove through the countryside, passing old windmills high on arid peaks, we soon came to the town of Vivlos, where we noticed one of the historical monument signs. Advertising the location of the Old Wash House that the villagers once used before the advent of Maytag, the site was still in relatively good shape and we could only image the villagers meeting here each day to do their laundry.

Continuing on, we soon found ourselves in Kato Sagri. A ruined building next to a church my eye. Pulling over, we walked around the property which is located at the settlement of Kanakari. The complex consisted of a tower house and bakery, both in ruins, with washers and a water well, formerly used for the needs of the buildings. This area was once used as a gathering point for the inhabitants of the village and the small church of the Annunciation, which is still in excellent condition, has served as a church for both Christian Catholics and Orthodox Christians. There is also a small complex of rooms, Kanakari1656, to rent behind the church offering a private getaway for visitors to the area.

Our next destination was the Temple of Demeter (Dimitras), however, it was nearing lunchtime and we decided to grab a bite to eat at the Cafe Bar Mylos, which sported a couple of old windmills on the premises. Spotting a sign across the road directing visitors to the historic site of Church of Agios Nikolaos, we decided to take a walk down the narrow, dusty road to check it out. A longer walk than we anticipated, we tried to enjoy the warm, clear day and the beauty of the countryside.

After turning onto a small path along a stone fence, we arrived at the small church which is located all alone in a field surrounded by the mountainous beauty. Though we were unable to view the interior, I later learned that it is a single-aisle church with an interior covered by successive layers of frescoes. These frescoes depict the birth and baptism of Jesus with the most recent layer dates back to 1270.

After the long walk back to our car, we resumed our trek to the Temple of Demeter, located not far near the village of Sangri.

The marble temple dedicated to Demeter, the ancient goddess of grain, dates back to the 6th century BC in the classical architectural style. Built near fertile areas, it was used for a religious purpose since the late Mycenaean Era.

Around the 3rd century BC, the temple was turn into a Christian religious center and a small chapel, dedicated to Agios Ioannis, was built on the premises, using marble from the ancient temple. Ruined in the 6th century, it was rebuilt in 1977.

After the remains of the temple were discovered in 1949, excavations lasted almost twenty years, beginning in 1976. Restored to its original glory by German archaeologists in the 1990s, the temple is now open to visitors.

Although a bit of a drive from Naxos Town, the temple is quite beautiful in its natural setting and accessible from its entire perimeter. After we had walked around the temple and checked out the chapel, I then took a walk to the rear of the property, past the ticket booth, to the museum which displays many remnants of the ruins that were not used in the reconstruction.

We continued our drive through the towering mountains in the middle of the island admiring the white-washed towns the cascade down the slopes and the countless churches that dot the countryside. After a quick hike down the side of a steep cliff, I even visited a simple little chapel that offered phenomenal views of the rich island.

Finally, after much driving, we decided that it was time to head to the coast for some much needed relaxation. Beginning at Plaka beach, we took a walk to the water to see what was available. Though the water was relatively calm, clear and blue, it did not appear as though there were any chairs for rent in this area. Driving further up the road, we soon found ourselves at Agia Anna. Here, there was plenty of parking and the water appeared similar to what we had just seen at Plaka Beach. A quick chat with a gentleman on the beach, secured us three beach chairs and an umbrella!

Though the water was pretty chilly, it was wonderful to see how clear it was and the beach was not overly crowded. Many restaurants and a small grocery store across the street provided some nourishment and we proceeded to enjoy the remainder of the afternoon enjoying the views and warmth of the Greek sun.

As the day drew to a close, the realization that our time in Naxos was coming to an end and yet, I felt as though there was so much more see on this “great big fat greek island”!

What an unexpected surprise!

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Old Wash House

  • Address: Βίβλος 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Site of Kanakari

  • Address: Κανακάρι, Sangrí 843 00, Greece

Cafe Bar Mylos

  • Address: Άνω Σαγκρί 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown

Aghios Nikolaos

  • Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: interior not open to public

Temple of Demeter

  • Address: Drimalia 843 02, Greece
  • Hours: 0900-1600, closed Tuesday
  • Admission: 4€
  • Getting There: By car, from Hora, follow the road to Filoti. After about 6 miles turn onto the road signposted for Ano Sangri and the Temple of Demeter. Follow the signs for about 2 more miles to the temple.

Next? Naxos!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

With so many Greek islands to choose from, how do you decide which to visit?

Although my family and I knew that we wanted to visit Santorini, we had no clue where to go after that.

A friend, who had recently visited three islands, suggested her itinerary of two nights in each Santorini, Mykonos and Paros. We contemplated these but hearing her stories about the expense of Mykonos, we decided that we wanted something a little more laid back and less costly.

Having spotted another friend’s posts on Facebook, I sent her a message inquiring about her recent vacation on the island of Naxos. Her response was overwhelmingly positive and after sending me a list of restaurants, hotels and things to do, we decided that this would be our destination.

Naxos, the largest of the islands of the Cyclades, lies north of Santorini and was once the seat of the Ducat of the Aegean and has been continuously inhabited since the 4th milennium BC. The most fertile of the Greek Islands, Naxos is a major producer of olive oil, potatoes, spoon sweets, the island’s famous liqueur, Kitron, wine and cheeses. It is famous for its wide variety of cultural events, traditional fairs. The island also offers colorful mountain villages, traditional windmills, breathtaking hiking and biking trails and some of the most beautiful beaches in the Greece.

The ferry from Santorini to Naxos, was a quick hour and ten minutes and before we knew it, we were pulling up to a quaint ferry port backed by a town built into the hillside, topped with an imposing Venetian castle.

It was a quick walk to our hotel and after checking in, we decided to spend the afternoon at Saint George’s Beach, just around the corner.

A popular beach which lays southwest of Naxos Town, Saint George’s Beach is named after the small chapel of Saint George which lies at its northern end. We found the waters to be extremely calm and relatively clear, though darker in nature, and the sands were soft, yet more of a dingy gray than any beach we had ever visited.

Making our way down the beach past the many restaurants that line the area, we finally decided on a place with a large number of vacant umbrellas and sun-beds for rent. Here, we relaxed for the remainder of the day, enjoying cold beers, snacks and great music.

As sunset approached, we headed into town to one of the bars facing the harbor to watch the amazing evening spectacle, so different and yet, so similar to those we had eyed each evening while in Santorini.

Finally, as the day came to a close, with the sun dipping beyond the horizon, we headed to one of the many restaurants rimming the harbor. The aroma of fresh, grilled seafood filled the air as we discussed our plans for the next day, which would start with us venturing through the narrow alleys and stairways up to the castle. We were then going to rent a car and see what lies beyond the main town.

Caves, beaches, churches, mountains, windmills, villages…

Naxos…a new place to explore!!! I couldn’t wait!

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Saint George’s Beach