Fredericksburg – Snapping The Globe

At Marye’s Heights

More than 100,000 casualties occurred within a twenty mile radius of Fredericksburg during Civil War battles. As a result, more than 15,000 Union soldiers found their final resting place in the Fredericksburg National Cemetery.

After four major battles, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, Wilderness, and Spotsylvania Court House, the remains of deceased Union and Confederate soldiers were buried in shallow, often unmarked graves around the battlefields. It was deemed necessary that a national cemetery at Fredericksburg be established to provide a proper burial site for these soldiers.

The Fredericksburg National Cemetery, part of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania Country Battlefields Memorial National Military Park is located southwest of the city’s historic downtown in Marye’s Heights, a Confederate stronghold during the Battle of Fredericksburg. It was constructed in 1866 and is one of fourteen national cemeteries managed by the National Park Service.

Parking near the Visitor’s Center at the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park, we found it to be closed and its exterior and surroundings under construction. Thinking that we would take a walk on the trail that lead from this location, we ducked into the Museum Shop to obtain a map. Finding the trail to be extensive and because it was the end of the day, we decided to take a walk through the cemetery instead.

Following the natural contour of the landscape, we walked uphill, noting some of the monuments dedicated to Union soldiers and officers such as the Fifth Corps Monument, which honors the service of the corps and the Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch, commemorating the officer who was killed while leading his regiment of 83rd New York Volunteers in the Battle of Wilderness. In the center of the cemetery, we found the Humphrey’s Division Monument, surrounded by upright cannons. This monument honors the men under General Humphrey that led an unsuccessful attack on Confederate troops holding Marye’s Heights. Over 1,000 soldiers were killed or wounded in this engagement.

*Monument to the 127th Regiment of the Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry*

Other small markers were scattered throughout the cemetery. Though bearing no names, they offered a longer number followed by another smaller number. While over 15,000 soldiers are interred here, only 2,473 were identified and these are the graves of the unknown. The upper number identifies the plot, while the second number identifies the number of soldiers buried in that plot. The soldiers that were identified are buried in individual graves, marked with a rounded headstone bearing the soldier’s name and state.

The cemetery is also the final resting place for an additional three hundred veterans of the Spanish-American War, World War I and World War II.

Though no music can be heard during our visit, the beat of a poem surrounded us. Near the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Monument, and throughout the cemetery, we noticed plaques containing verses from Theordore O’Hara’s, “The Bivouac of the Dead” (1847), which commemorated the American dead at the Battle of Buena Vista, from the Mexican-American War.

The muffled drum’s sad roll has beat
The soldier’s last Tattoo;
No more on life’s parade shall meet
That brave and fallen few.
On fame’s eternal camping ground
Their silent tents to spread,
And glory guards, with solemn round
The bivouac of the dead.
No rumor of the foe’s advance
Now swells upon the wind;
Nor troubled thought at midnight haunts
Of loved ones left behind;
No vision of the morrow’s strife
The warrior’s dreams alarms;
No braying horn or screaming fife
At dawn shall call to arms.
Rest on, embalmed and sainted dead,
Dear as the blood ye gave,
No impious footstep here shall tread
The herbage of your grave.

A powerful testament to those who gave their lives during these tumultuous times.

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Fredericksburg National Cemetery
https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/national_cemeteries/virginia/Fredericksburg_National_Cemetery.html
Address: 1013 Lafayette Boulevard, Fredericksburg, Virginia 22401
Hours: Dawn to dusk
Admission: free

Growing Up George

Most Americans know that our nation’s first President was George Washington and that his residence, Mount Vernon, is located south of Washington D.C., on the banks of the Potomac River.

Having visited Mount Vernon with my children on various school field trips, I was intrigued with the how beautiful the estate and its grounds were and although I was aware that this was Washington’s home, I never thought about how long he lived there. Although he and his wife Martha made it their home until his death, I guess I always assumed that he also grew up there.

Recently, when visiting Fredericksburg, I found myself on Kings Highway. Noticing a historical sign directing visitors to George Washington’s boyhood home, I initially dismissed it assuming it was Mount Vernon. When I happened to see another sign directing me to the entrance, I realized that I was not near Mount Vernon and this was something entirely different.

This was Ferry Farm.

Located on the banks of the Rappahannock River, Ferry Farm, as it was later named, was George Washington’s home from the age of six years until his twenties. The Washington family purchased the farm in 1738 and it was here where George Washington spent his formative years and the place where most people believe he chopped down the infamous cherry tree.

Purchasing a ticket, I walked in the garden for a few minutes before heading out to the area where the replica of the home stands. During my tour, learned that in 1740, the Washington family home was destroyed by fire, however, during excavations in 2008, archaeologists uncovered remains that led them to realize that this was the location of the family home. In 2015, the George Washington Foundation began constructing a replica on the site of the original building and it was opened to the public in 2018.

Though no one knows what the farm was called during the years that the Washington family occupied the home, it later came to be known as Ferry Farm, because of the free ferry (not owned by the family) that crossed the river on the family’s land.

After an introduction by the tour guide, we were led through the home which was built using eighteenth century building techniques. The tour which took us through the first floor, introduced us to reproductions of the furniture and objects listed in George’s father, Augustine Washington’s, probate inventory when he died in 1743. Unlike many other historical tours, because these are all reproductions, we were encouraged to interact with the objects while being regaled with stories about the family’s life.

Once the tour was complete, I ventured outside and down to the river to where the ferry once departed the banks of the river to make its crossing. From here, the view of the home sitting on the hill, was breathtaking and you could almost imagine a young George and his siblings running down the steep slope or sledding down during the winter!

Making my way back up the stairs, I spotted a tent, situated not far from the house. Archaeologists were excavating another site on the property and I was told that there have been prehistoric artifacts such as spear points, stone axes and numerous other tools tied to the American Indians that once made their home on the land found here. During the Civil War in 1862, the areas near the farm were the site of skirmishes between Confederate and Union armies. The farm was used by Union soldiers as a campground and although much of the farm was destroyed, a surveyor’s shed was constructed and is one on the only remaining structures from this time frame that can be seen today. In addition, archaeologists have found many items from the Civil War occupation that can be seen in the museum at the front of the property such as bullets, ink bottles, button and medallions from uniforms. Other interesting artifacts that can be inspected are 18th century wig hair curlers. The Georgian-style inspired museum and archaeological lab also houses the ticket office/visitor’s center and was not open for visitation.

Since Ferry Farm has only been open since 2018 and a new historical attraction, I do think that it is worth returning at a later date. A new visitor’s center is in the works and every year, visitors come for the celebration of Washington’s birthday. While everyone knows the cherry tree story, which is believed to have happened here, it is also claimed to be the site where George Washington skipped a silver dollar across the Rappahannock River. The river was wider then than it is today, making it a much harder feat, but all who attend are invited to recreate this event.

Wonder if there will be any tree chopping competitions too?

George Washington not only led an interesting adult life, but an interesting younger one as well.

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Ferry Farm

https://kenmore.org/visit-ferry-farm/
Address: 268 Kings Highway, Fredericksburg, Virginia 22405
Hours: March to October, Monday to Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday, 1200-1700, November and February, Monday to Saturday, 1000-1600, Sunday, 1200-1600
Admission: Adults, $1200, Students (ages 6 and up), $6.00, Children (ages 5 and under), free

Not-So-Virtual Whiskey

One of the things that Covid has taught us is that cocktails are always welcome, no matter what is going on in the world.

Beer, wine and spirits have helped people pass their time during their lockdowns, especially during virtual happy hours.

Beer, wine and spirits have helped people to forget about their troubles.

Beer, wine and spirits sales are through the roof!

Recently, I was thinking of things to do and while I have taken part in many a virtual happy hour, I was ready to get out of the house and see something different. Perusing the internet one day, I came across a local distillery that offers tours…maybe Google pointed me in that direction since I had been placing an order with a local beer and wine store and they thought I was the perfect candidate…but even though I prefer beer and would rather go to a craft brewery, I thought it would be fun and educational.

The A. Smith Bowman Distillery, located in Fredericksburg, Virginia, got its start in Fairfax County in 1927 as a dairy and granary. A. Smith Bowman realized that his fields were producing an abundance of grain and did not want to see it go to waste. In 1934, he built a distillery with the help of his two sons and their first product, “Virginia Gentleman” was well received. His distilling business was born.

Until the 1950’s, Mr. Bowman was the sole producer of legal whiskey in Virginia and he has since shifted gears, moving to Fredericksburg and producing handcrafted small batches and experimental editions.

Now, I will admit, I am not partial to whiskey, but taking part in a free tour concluding with free samples sounded like a great way to get myself out of the house. Enticing two of my friends to make the forty-five minute trip was easy and we signed up for a morning tour, discovering when we arrived that we were the only participants for that particular time slot. Perfect for social distancing!

Our guide led us through the great room, maintaining our six feet, showing us Mr. Bowman’s original desk, and explaining the different varieties produced in the distillery. The production room was quite interesting with the Vendome Copper & Brass Works stills, quiet for the time being which made it easy to learn from our guide how each plays a part in making the spirits. We walked through the assembly line area which was also taking a break, however, I think it would be quite interesting to see it at work. Most captivating, however, was the storage facility filled with thousands of barrels. There, we were shown the numbering system which allows team members to pull the barrels that have been properly aged and are ready for distribution.

Finally, taken back to the great room, we headed to the bar where we were allowed to pick four products to sample, including bourbon, vodka, gin and rum. There were some that were more pleasing to each of our palates, however, it was easy to discern why the A. Smith Bowman Distillery has won the awards of “World’s Best Bourbon” at the World Whiskies Awards in both 2016 and 2017 among many others.

As we finished our tasting, we were able to browse the gift shop area where various goods such as bourbon-inspired drinkware, apparel, coffee, soaps, salsa, barbeque, steak and chocolate sauces…and of course, spirits…are available for purchase.

The distillery sits on impeccable grounds, bordered by Deep Run creek and there are many historical sites in Fredericksburg to visit once your tour has been completed.

The A. Smith Bowman Distillery tour was an extremely interesting way to spend an hour or so and we learned a great deal about something none of us were familiar with. Plus, we got to sample some award winning spirits and walked away with some of our Christmas shopping completed. Much better than virtual happy hour!

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A. Smith Bowman Distillery

https://asmithbowman.com/
Address: 1 Bowman Dr, Fredericksburg, VA 22408
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday, 1200-1700
Admission and Tours: free

His Name Was Thomas

I never really thought about his real name.

Studying the Civil War, we learned about both the Confederate and Union generals, however, one in particular, was was always referred to as “Stonewall”.

His full name was Thomas Jonathon Jackson.

While driving back from Gettysburg, my mind was filled with the landmarks I had seen and my thoughts on what had happened during that three day battle in 1863. Many soldiers and commanding officers gave their lives but no focus was ever put upon what happened to those who survived or those who lost their lives in the days leading up to this historic battle.

As I passed near Fredericksburg, a sign pointing to the “Stonewall” Jackson Death Site caught my eye. There was still a few hours of daylight remaining.

Thomas Jonathon “Stonewall” Jackson was born in Clarksburg in West Virginia. He was received training at the U.S. Military Academy at West Point and was recognized as a hero in the Mexican War. Continuing his military experience at Virginia Military Institute as an instructor, he was made a brigadier general at the first major battle of the Civil War near Manassas, Virginia. It was during that battle that General Bernard E. Bee proclaimed, “There is Jackson standing like a stone wall”.

Well known for his military feats by both the North and the South, he was mistakenly shot by his own men during the Battle of Chancellorsville on May 2, 1863. Though the bullet only caused his wounding, he was unable to continue his military duties until after recuperating sufficiently. Confederate General Robert E. Lee secured a safe place behind enemy lines in Guinea Station on Thomas C. Chandler’s seven hundred and forty acre plantation, Fairfield.

Though he was welcomed into the family’s home, Jackson’s doctor and staff officers decided to place him in one of the quiet outbuildings which acted as an office of sorts. After sufficient time had passed, Jackson would board a train and travel to Richmond, Virginia for additional medical care.

The general was accompanied during his stay by his doctor’s and staff officers and attempted to overcome his injuries which were amplified by the amputation of his twice wounded left arm. Though his spirits were lifted by the arrival of his wife, Mary Anna, and baby daughter, Julia, he soon succumbed to a bout of pneumonia, crying out in his delirium, “Order A.P. Hill to prepare for action! Pass the infantry to the front rapidly! Tell Major Hanks…”. The last part of this sentence went unfinished but as a smile spread across his face, he said quietly, “Let us cross over the river, and rest under the shade of the trees.” He then passed away.

Driving through the countryside, I soon found the landmark’s location down a long drive, bordered by railroad tracks. The office is the only remaining structure from the Chandler’s plantation as sometime after the Civil War, the main house was burned during a major fire.

The office was established as a historic shrine in the 1920s, it was renovated then and again in the 1960s. The National Park service added some other pieces from the era to the ones used during Jackson’s stay to recreate the scene of his last days.

The site is part of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park so I expected it to be well maintained like the battlefields there. I found, however, long grasses surrounding the building and felt as if it is a site not well visited. I was able to make my way down a brick path to get closer to the structure and a sign in the window gave an overview of his final days.

Just beyond the office was a marker showing the former location of the Chandler house and near the parking lot is a gravestone. Though Stonewall Jackson’s arm was buried in the Lacy Cemetery in Chancellorsville, Virginia, where is was amputated, his body was buried in his hometown of Lexington, Virginia. This gravestone merely marks the spot where he died.

Though not a widely known landmark, if you are a Civil War buff, make sure to seek this out during your visits to the local battlefields and historical landmarks. Not a lot to see, but definitely part of the overall timeline of the war and the overall experience.

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Stonewall Jackson Deathsite

https://www.nps.gov/frsp/learn/historyculture/jds.htm
Address: 12019 Stonewall Jackson Road, Woodford, VA 22580
Hours: Grounds open from sunrise to sunset. Currently most public buildings in the National Park System are closed due to Covid restrictions.
Admission: free
Getting There: Take Rte. 2 south from Fredericksburg for approximately ten miles, then turn right onto Va. Rte. 606, Stonewall Jackson Road for about 3 miles. The “Stonewall” Jackson Death Site will be on the right. Additionally, you can take Rte. 1 south from Fredericksburg for approximately six miles, then turn left onto Guinea Station Road for about six miles. Take a left onto Stonewall Jackson Road, and the “Stonewall” Jackson Death Site will be on the left.