Walking With Elephants

Braving the drizzle, elephant trekking was on the agenda for our final day in Koh Samui.

The adventure was booked through an agency and transportation was provided. Choosing the 1:00pm departure gave us time to walk on the beach and enjoy the sunshine that dared to peek out at us that morning.
A tuk tuk soon arrived to collect us and we were on our way. The route was very familiar as we had been to this area two days prior…Namuang Waterfall is at the same location.
Before climbing on the elephant, I was approached by a photographer to take pictures of me at the end of the trek. He had a professional camera and charged 200 baht ($6) and promised to deliver the pictures to my hotel that evening.
Soon, I was strapped into the seat and ambling off into the jungle. My driver’s name was Dang and he offered me an umbrella to protect me from the steady drizzle that refused to quit until we neared the end of the ride. Our trek was to last for 30 minutes and since my travel companions were on an elephant in front of me, I was able to take pictures of them and they were able to get some of me.

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As we neared the end of the pathway, through the river, towards the disembarkment platform, I saw my companions’ driver hop off of their elephant and move them one at a time off of the seat onto the elephant’s head. He proceeded to take many pictures for them with their iphones. My driver asked me if I would like to have pictures and I responded, “Yes.” I am not sure if he misunderstood me, but when we moved to the area where my companions’ pictures had been taken, he prompted our elephant to continue walking. As we walked into the river, I asked him when we were going to take pictures and I was harshly reprimanded that it was too late for him to get off of the elephant. I was taken aback by his rudeness as Thai people are usually quite pleasant. So shocked that I was, I hardly could muster up a smile as the professional photographer approached me for pictures.
Once I was back on land, I was so disappointed that my companions’ experience was so different than mine. I immediately went to the ticket window and asked the women working if all drivers offer to photograph their riders. I explained that I had witnessed many people receiving that courtesy, however, as a customer paying the same amount as them, I should have received it as well. They must have motioned to the manager because he was immediately at my side. He realized how disappointed I was and he quickly ushered me back to the platform and onto another elephant. He spoke to the driver who took me back to the end of the pathway, jumped off and began to take photos for me. The professional photographer spied me and came over to do more photographs as well. I was able to sit on the elephants head and as we were led away, the photographer leaned in to me and said only so I could hear, “These were much better with only you on the elephant. I’m glad you came back.”
Giving the manager a huge hug, I couldn’t express how grateful I was for that act of kindness that he extended to me. It had been a trying day and that event had been the straw that broke the camel’s back. Certainly, I understand that he wanted to keep a customer happy. In this age of Trip Advisor reviews, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and blogs, I am sure that he realizes that a bad experience can travel a long way from the island of Samui. However, it meant more to me than he will ever realize.
And yes, my photographs were delivered as promised…and I looked magnificent…without the driver on my elephant!

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Transportation is provided three times a day to the Namuang Waterfall area where the treks are done. The cost is about 700 baht ($20) for 30 minutes and 1000 baht ($30) for 1 hour. We asked for and received a discount since there were three of us booking, 600 baht each ($17) for 30 minutes.

For more pictures, please see my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe.

Buddhas, Monks and Kathoeys! Oh My!!!

After breakfast on our third day in Koh Samui, we decided to do some sightseeing on the island.  Although there are tours that provide either 4 or 6 hour itineraries, we opted to not be part of a tour group as we wanted to tailor the trip to our tastes.  No need for a monkey show!  I have seen many primates in my time…some too close for comfort!

Making a deal with a local cabbie was a pretty easy process.  There were many to be found along the main street awaiting customers.  We agreed on a price of 1300 baht ($36.00) for 4 hours of sightseeing, including the Wat Phra Yai (Big Buddha), Wat Plai Laem Temple, Hin Ta and Hin Yai, Wat Khunaram (Mummy Monk) and Namuang Waterfall.  Our cab driver did not speak much English, but we weren’t really looking for a tour guide.  He was capable of telling me how far to the next destination and that was fine by me!Big Buddha3

First on the itinerary was the Big Buddha.

The temple, Wat Phra Yai, sits on a small rocky island, Koh Faan, off of Koh Samui’s northeastern corner.  Build in 1972 and one of the island’s most popular attractions, the Buddha stands almost 40 feet high.  It can be seen several miles away and by arriving flights into Koh Samui airport.

Colorful dragons lead up to the platform area on which the Buddha sits.  There are also two other Buddha images adjacent and many Buddha devotees come daily to make offerings.  Entrance is free and donations are accepted.  Long shorts or trousers should be worn and shoulders should be covered.

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Front Buddhas

At Koh Phra Yai, we encountered a monk who invited us (for a donation) to receive a blessing.  We knelt in front of him and then he allowed us to have a picture taken.  He tied a good luck string on our wrists and blessed us with holy water using reeds dipped in the water and patting our wrists.  Then, we were sprinkled with the holy water while waving the reeds back and forth.  As he was touching our wrists, it sounded as if he were saying, “Good Luck, Good Luck, Good Luck” only it sounded more like, “G’luck, G’luck, G’luck”.  He must have sensed that we needed some luck because he chanted it an awful lot!Leah Monk

Next, we visited the Wat Plai Laem Temple, which is very near to the Big Buddha.  Located on Koh Samui’s northeast coast, the Buddhist temple features an impressive white 18 arm image of Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy and Compassion.  Surrounded by a tranquil lake, Wat Plai Laem is a live and active temple where devotees come daily to pay homage to Guanyin and Buddha, who is also depicted in a number of statues and murals around the temple.  Entrance is free, however donations are accepted.   Conservative dress and behavior is expected.

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Water temple Fat Buddha

My friends weren’t really interested in Hin Ta and Hin Yai (Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks) however, I talked them into visiting since it was on the way to the Mummy Monk and the waterfall.  Five minutes, I told them….jump out see it and jump back in the cab.  Well, well, wouldn’t you know who got a kick out of these?  I think they took more photographs than most tourists.  I really don’t need to describe these, check out the photographs and make of it what you will.

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Next was the Mummy Monk at Wat Khunaram.  There are many mummy monks throughout Thailand, but Loung Pordang, who died in 1973, is probably one of the most highly revered.

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He died in a seated meditative position and has been on display in an upright glass case at the temple ever since.  He was very accepting of death and saw it as an opportunity to be reborn into a better place.  He was said to have told his followers before his death that if his body were to decompose, that he wanted to be cremated.  However, if it did not, he wanted to be put on display as a reminder of Buddha’s teachings.  He has been on display ever since at Wat Khunaram.

Lastly, we visited the Namuang waterfall.  These falls are not extremely high, only descending for a total of 300 feet between the two parts of the waterfall, Namuang 1 and Namuang 2.  Because of the purple shade of the rock faces, these waterfalls were so named, Namtok Na Muang or Purple Waterfalls. There is a small pool at the base and I had previously seen pictures of other tourists taking a dip.  We had not brought our suits or towels, so swimming was not on the agenda.  Admission is free and there are many souvenir and food shops on the premises.waterfall

While in town, we always walked by the Starz Cabaret.  Usually, there was music playing through the upstairs open windows and more often than not, an elaborately dressed drag queen standing on the sidewalk handing out flyers for the show.

I had heard about the Kathoey (Lady Boy) shows in Thailand, but had never attended one.  So after returning from our tour, and getting a nice dinner, we decided that tonight was our chance!

We weren’t extremely tired and the location was close to the hotel.  Entry was free with a required drink purchase.  Drinks were not overly expensive…about 250 baht for a beer ($7.00), compared to 50-90 baht ($1.50-$2.50) at most restaurants, so it was as if you were paying a $5 cover charge.

The venue was quite small, so everyone had a pretty good view of the stage.performer

The performers consisted of four males who were back-up dancers to the 8 main attractions.  Lip syncing was the norm, but I have to say, they were quite entertaining!  Now, there were some that I could see were males, dressed in drag, however, some, I would have never known were not a woman had I encountered them on the street.

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A forty five minute show is performed every night at 8:30, 9:30 and 10:30 and afterwards, you are invited to take pictures with some of the performers…for a tip…of course!

Leah and boys

Check out more pictures on my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe.

Fisherman’s Village

For our first full day in Koh Samui, we had a little bit of a late start due to the rain and the fact that I stayed out a bit late the night before.  Once the rain stopped, we decided to take a cab over to the Fisherman’s Village area.
There are many restaurants and shops to pass away your time and money. Souvenirs such as clothing, carvings and purses (and just about anything else you can think of) can be found in great abundance.
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Unlike Chaweng Beach, it seems to be an older crowd and little or none of the nightlife.  It also felt less congested than Chaweng.
The beach area looked nice…clean and calm and there were places to rent jet skis and other watercraft.  On a clear day, you can see over to Koh Phangan.
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There are some tailors to have items of clothing made.  A particular dress in the window of Armani Tailors caught my friends’ eye.  I think it started out as curiosity, but before long they were picking out fabric and being measured for their custom dress.  Jimmy, the owner, instructed them to come back he next evening for a fitting.  The dress would be ready on the day after.  I can say that they were very pleased with the end result.
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You can get to the Fisherman’s Village by cab or by songthaew (tuk tuk).  We were quoted 450 baht and wondered if this was a good price.  However, it seems that this is a fixed price between Chaweng Beach and this area, as we saw a sign in Fishermans Village stating prices to various areas.
I would recommend coming to this area if not staying nearby for a change of pace.
Coming during the latter part of the afternoon, you could enjoy walking around while temperatures are cooling and then stay for a nice dinner along the waterfront.
And…if the mood strikes, order a new wardrobe.
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Check out more pictures on my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe.

 

Oh…Koh Samui

Since our next day was a travel day, we were up early and out the door, heading for Don Mueang airport.

Although we were only in Bangkok for two “half” nights (arrival after midnight and leaving hotel at 3:30 AM) I was sad to leave the Ibis Nana hotel. Last time I was in Bangkok, I stayed at the Mercure at the Skytrain Stadium stop. It was an extremely nice hotel that I booked thru Delta Perks, a site that offers us airline discounts with certain hotel chains. I absolutely loved this hotel and its location!  This time, I decided to try another Accor hotel, the Ibis Nana. The Ibis offers clean, Scandinavian style rooms. Our price was around 30 dollars per night, more than half of the Mercure’s price.  Since our stay was short, this seemed like a more reasonable choice.

What I liked most about this hotel is that there are lots of restaurants and bars in the area, so after a long day of sightseeing, you can go back to your room, freshen up and then you don’t have to go very far for a good meal or for nightlife.

Our flight from Bangkok to Surat Thani was booked with Nok Air. There are many discount airlines to choose from and most operate from Don Mueang airport which is closer to the city of Bangkok. Our flight was a steal at $67.
The good thing about booking a flight that departs at 6:10 AM is that there is no traffic at that time of the morning. Our cab driver was not happy when we had him turn on the meter…I suspect that he hoped to charge us a much higher fare than the 300 baht that was showing on the meter when we arrived.

Nok Air does not allow you to carry on your rollaboards, however, they do not require you to pay to check your luggage. The excellent thing about this is that with hardly any luggage being brought on board, the boarding process takes hardly any time at all.
The plane was impeccable and the bathrooms were immaculately clean.
On this short flight (1 hour) the flight attendants served a small breakfast snack, did a coffee service and even sold Nok Air products. Grant it, we were not full, maybe 2/3, but they were amazingly quick and efficient.

When we arrived, our bags were quickly delivered to the baggage claim.
We had booked the plane-bus-ferry option. It wasn’t long before we were loaded onto our bus and driving towards the Lomprayah ferry.

At the Lomprayah ferry terminal, we purchased the transfer option (150 baht) to take us from the arrival ferry pier to our hotel. The ferry was very nice and there was s snack bar for purchasing food, drinks and food.

After our docking in Koh Samui, we were met by the Lomprayah agents and escorted to our bus. 30 minutes later, we arrived at our hotel, Montien House.

We were told that our rooms would be another hour, so we went off to have lunch. Before long, we were checked into our rooms. I had specifically requested a room near my friend’s and facing the beach side of the property however, neither request had been met. In addition, someone had spilled something all over one of the walls and the room generally did not seem clean.
I went downstairs and explained what had happened. Thankfully, they were able to move me to the room across from my friend’s room, although it wasn’t beach facing.
Although I was unsure about the hotel at first, it quickly grew on me and I came to love the staff. Every day, they wanted to know my plans and when I came in, they wanted to know how my day was. The room was always cleaned very well and if there was something I needed, it was quickly taken care of.
The hotel was conveniently located near many shops, restaurants and nightlife.

On my last night, I went downstairs to go to the beach to release my lucky lantern.  I was alone and the front desk was occupied by one of the young men who worked at the hotel.  He saw my lantern and asked if I needed help with it.  I asked him to show me what to do.  He explained that it was easier if there were two people.  I responded that my friends were not there to help me.  What he said to me, was very touching, especially since I had had such a trying day.  “The staff here can help you.  We are your friends too!”

Maybe it wasn’t the most luxurious hotel, but little things like that mean so much to a customer!

 

 

 

Ibis Nana

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www. accorhotels.com

Nok Air

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www.nokair.com

Montien House

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www.montienhouse.com