Paris – Snapping The Globe

Marie Antoinette Was Here

On the famed Île de la Cité, visitors are drawn to the magnificent stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle and the medieval French Gothic cathedral, Notre Dame. Yet, another historic structure, La Conciergerie, just next door to Sainte-Chapelle, is often overlooked!

But why? Perhaps the average tourist does not realize the significance of the building situated on the Boulevard du Palais, only wanting to check the boxes of the most famous landmarks in the City of Lights. Or, maybe…they simply do not allocate enough time for a building they may think is only a judicial one…not one that dates back to the 6th century and played an important role in the French Revolution.

Located within a fortified complex on the Île de la Cité, in the Seine River, the impressive medieval palace, was built as an historic Gothic dwelling to house the Kings of France, beginning with King Clovis. In 1200, King Philip II then made the Palais de la Cite the royal seat of power, remaining so until the 14th century. At this time, it then took on a judicial role as the Kings of France vacated to settle in at the Louvre and Chateau du Vincennes. As a Palace of Justice, it saw the addition of prison cells and became a royal prison, chancellery and seat of Parliament.

During the French Revolution of 1789 and the period of “The Terror” (1793-1795), the palace held and tried many political prisoners, but it is one that it is most famous for. It was in La Conciergerie that the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette was detained in captivity until her execution, along with 2700 others.

Marie Antoinette’s fate, a guillotined beheading, was similar to most prisoners who spent time at the converted cells within the palace walls. The word “conciergerie” is a French term meaning, “lodging of a housekeeper” as it was looked after by the person left in charge of the palace in the absence of the King and was known as one of the worst prisons of the period. Very few prisoners made it out alive, succumbing to illness, neglect or the blade of the guillotine.

While a majority of La Conciergerie’s square footage is dedicated to courthouses and administrative buildings, a most important historical part is open to the general public and has been transformed into a museum.

Having purchased a combination ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, we proceeded directly to the entry point on Boulevard du Palais once our tour of the holy chapel was complete. Since La Conciergerie still operates as a government building, we were guided through a security complex so that we and our belongings could be searched and run through metal detectors before being allowed access to the premises.

Since there are no guided tours, we were given a small tablet to aid in our navigation of the premises. As we entered the museum, we first moved through the Grande Salle (Great Hall), a palatial space reminiscent of its royal status as home to the kings and then on to the lower level, La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall). This massive space once served as an enormous dining room for palace workers and accommodated royal banquets and other formal occasions within its impressive 210 foot long area, divided by grand columns and vaulted 28 foot ceilings.

*La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall)*

The corridor of cells allowed for the understanding of the former prisoners’ living conditions. These dark and narrow cells with no furnishings, were not a place of luxury. While we gazed upon clean floors and felt the neutral climate from modern heating and air conditioning, it was certain that this place was once overrun with rats and other vermin and that prisoners suffered from both heat and cold and slept on the floor. By stark contrast, we were also privy to the small prison warden offices, complete with period furniture and more conveniences as well as the cells outfitted for wealthier prisoners.

A mural that shows the names of some individuals victimized by the Reign of Terror and imprisoned or tried at the Conciergerie. Their names are printed in different colors depending on their punishments, with those executed by guillotine shown in red. Other plaques and historical displays throughout the museum portion of the visit recount the history of the Revolution and the Reign of Terror, led by the infamous Robespierre.

Finally, we traversed the stairs to the site of the cell of Marie Antoinette. The queen was held in this cell during the final two months of her life during the Reign of Terror. Here, the sanctuary, Girodins’ Chapel, was originally a place of worship that was then converted to a collective cell during the Revolution. After the Revolution, the “Expiatory Chapel” was built to atone for the queen’s execution and pay tribute to her and other royal figures executed during that time period. Nestled in the back of the chapel, there is a shrine covered with black walls, covered in silver tears. Located at the supposed site of the queen’s bed, a faux marble altar is decorated with a text to honor her memory and the last letter from Marie-Antoinette to her sister-in-law, Madame Elisabeth. Period furnishings show how her cell may have been decorated as in contrast to the less wealthy prisoners; she was given a bed, furniture and servants. A detailed reconstruction of her cell is available for inspection.

*Re-creation of Marie Antoinette’s cell*

Just outside of Girodins’ Chapel is the garden in the women’s courtyard. Here, female prisoners were allowed to wash their clothes in the fountain, walk around, and eat outside, a nice perk not afforded to the male prisoners.

La Conciergerie is not a large museum but an important one and we completed our tour in a short time span. If you find time to traverse the Île de la Cité or visit Notre Dame (when reopened) or Sainte-Chapelle, take an extra hour to tour this interesting piece of Paris’ significant history. It may not have the views of the Eiffel Tower or the artwork of the Louvre, but it will give an understanding of the French Revolution and Marie Antoinette’s last days. While it is not the only site where you might see an actual guillotine blade, it might be the one worth remembering.

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La Conciergerie

Address: 2 Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris
Hours: 0930-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and May 1.
Admission: Adults, €11.50 (US$ 12.60), Under 18 years and EU Citizens (18 – 25 years old), free entry, Persons with reduced mobility and accompanying person, free entry. Free entry with Paris Pass and Paris Museum Pass. Free entry on the first Sunday of the month from November to March. Combined ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, €18.50
Getting There: Metro, Cité, line 4. Bus, lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81 and 85.

The Holy Chapel

Visiting Paris with my, then 13 year-old son, many years ago, we had mentally prepared a list of things that we wanted to do and experience…the Louvre, Notre Dame, Montmartre, the Sacre Coeur and of course, the Eiffel Tower. Naturally, we hoped to add more to our list as we happened upon it and that’s kind of what happened with Sainte-Chapelle.

While waiting to pay our admission at the Arc de Triomphe, we spotted a poster-style sign on the wall advertising Sainte-Chapelle. I had vaguely heard of it prior to this trip, but it really wasn’t a place that we had allotted time for in our schedule. My son, however, was transfixed with the photo of the vivid stained glass windows and insisted that we could go.

Time was limited, but after our visit to the Arc de Triomphe, we dashed to the Metro and made it to the Île de la Cité with a little time to spare. Securing our entry tickets, we walked into an architectural and chromatic dreamland.

While the Gothic-style itself was mesmerizing, it was those stained-glass windows that had captivated my son and drew us here that took our breath away.

Walking through the Sainte-Chapelle, we admired the vividness of the soaring apertures that fill in the upper walls of the space and the golden accents, comprehensive statues, architectural details, rich colors and brightly lit chandeliers hanging from the vaulted ceiling. Albeit a spontaneous decision, we had made the right one.

Last spring, remembering this experience so fondly and after having toured Chateau de Vincennes’ Sainte-Chapelle earlier in the year, I decided to return while on one of my Parisian layovers.

*The walk across the bridge to the Île de la Cité* *and Saint-Chapelle*

Booking a ticket online, I arrived at my appointed time and made my way through the security checkpoint, through the courtyard and into the royal chapel. Indeed, it was as beautiful as I remembered it.

Constructed around 1238 and consecrated ten years later, this residence of the Kings of France until the 14th century, is considered one of the highest Gothic architectural achievements of its time. Built by King Louis IX of France, to house his collection of Passion relics, including the Crown of Thorns, it is also one of the earliest surviving buildings on the Île de la Cité. Though damaged during the French Revolution, it was restored and contains one of the most extensive 13th century stained glass collections in the world, with over two thirds of its original glass remaining.

While Sainte-Chapelle is no longer a church, having been secularized after the French Revolution, it is still considered a royal chapel inspired by earlier ones in the realm. This one, with its two levels, equal in size, offered a place (upper level) to house the sacred relics and was reserved for the royal family and their guests. The lower level was used by the courtiers, servants and soldiers of the palace. Its large size was comparable to many of the other Gothic cathedrals in France.

As I made my way through the upper chapel, what struck me most, as it did before, was that most of the walls are mostly constructed of pillars and buttresses and the spaces between are almost entirely glass. On a sunny day, the color is almost blinding with so many panes catching the light. On this day, however, it was quite gloomy outside, but even then, the windows showed off their magnificence.

The upper chapel was filled with visitors, all gazing skyward and I followed the walls and windows in order, using the laminated card (available in a variety of languages) to decipher what was each window’s theme…the New Testament (featuring scenes of the Passion, the Infancy of Christ and the Life of John the Evangelist) and the Old Testament (featuring scenes from the Book of Genesis, Exodus, Joseph, Numbers/Leviticus, Joshua/Deuteronomy, Judges, Jeremian/Tobia, Judity/Job, Esther, David and the Book of Kings). Created by three different ateliers you can spot the contrasting styles used in the artist’s creations. And finally, I stood before the great rose window, at the rear of the chapel, created and installed in the late 15th century. This window, is composed of eighty-nine separate panels, representing scenes of the Apocalypse and uses a different technique, giving it a brighter look.

*Upper Chapel, King/Queen Alcove, Middle*

After I had made my way through the crowded space, paying particular attention to the two small alcoves set into the opposite walls where the King and Queen worshipped (King, north side, Queen, south side), I proceeded down the stairway to the lower chapel. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, it was heavily decorated with sculpture, columns, murals and the fleur-de-lis emblem of Louis IX, especially on its vaulted ceiling. Whereas the upper chapel soared to great heights, the lower chapel’s ceiling was only 22 feet high, although, still offering its own beautiful stained glass windows, depicting scenes from the Virgin’s life.

After my exit from the chapel’s interior, I took a few moments, despite the drizzling rain that had begun to fall, to walk around the exterior and admire its Gothic architectural components. Since visiting Notre Dame is currently not possible since its devastating fire in 2019, this is a stunning substitute on the Île de la Cité.

While there are other important “copies” of Sainte-Chapelle throughout the world (Karlstejn Castle, near Prague, Hofburgkapelle, Vienna, Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross and St. Bartholomew, Wroclaw, Poland and Exeter College, Oxford) and you can see some of the early stained glass that was removed at the Musee de Cluny in Paris and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, I can not imagine not seeing this one in person and I was glad for my son’s inquisitiveness and persuasive skills many years ago.

It is truly a masterpiece like no other that should be on the top of every Parisian visitor’s list.

For me, two visits down and many more to come.

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Sainte-Chapelle

https://www.sainte-chapelle.fr/en/
Address: Sainte-Chapelle, 10, boulevard du Palais 75001 Paris
Hours: April 1-September 30, 0900-1900, October 1-March 30, 0900-1700. Last admission, 40 minutes before closing. Closed May 1, December 25 and January 1. Visit by confirmed time slot booked online.
Admission: Adult, 11.50€, 18 year old and under, free, 18-25 year old (European Union), free. Combined ticket with Conciergerie, Adult, 18.50€, 18 year old and under, free, 18-25 year old (European Union), free.
Getting There: Metro 4, station Cité, RER B ou C, station Saint-Michel, Métro 1,7,11, 14, station Châtelet. By Bus, Lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81, 85, 96 et Balabus, Stations Vélib’ à proximité.

Metro de Chateau

At one end of the Paris metro yellow line is La Defense, the other, Chateau de Vincennes.

The location of my work hotel is somewhere in between and I’ve visited La Defense’s Christmas market a few years ago, but never gave much thought to the other end of the line. La Defense is a business district, I just naturally assumed Chateau de Vincennes metro stop was named after the area, not an actual Château. In actuality, I was partly correct.

The area of Vincennes was formed in the late 18th century, when two village communities located north of the chateau joined together…the hamlet of La Pissotte, which was built towards the end of the 13th century and Basse-Coura subdivision created under Charles V originally used to house royal servants. In 1829, the territory was enlarged at the expense of Fontenay-sous-Bois and Montreuil. Vincennes now covers an area of some 192 hectares and has almost 50,000 inhabitants. It is one of the most densely populated towns in France.

But, there really is a chateau in Vincennes!

Setting out shortly after my arrival into Paris, I was excited at the prospect of seeing this chateau in Vincennes that this metro stop was named for.

Exiting the metro, I discovered massive walls and an imposing gate a short distance away on the Avenue de Paris. Complete with a draw bridge spanning a moat surrounding the premises, I was reminded of its long history and its need for defense during tumultuous times.

Chateau de Vincennes entrance

Built between 1361 and 1369, this preferred residence of the French Kings was known for its keep and for its beautiful chapel, Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes, although prior monarchs used the area during the century before construction commenced.

Passing through the gates, I glanced up at the bell tower and clock, the very first public clock in France (although now a reproduction with its original kept in Saint Chappelle). A little further, I walked into a large compound with buildings lining the walkway to both my left and right, and here, I discovered the ticket office. Although I had purchased my ticket prior to my arrival, I stopped inside to ensure that everything was in order and to confirm what my entry fee covered. Handed a map, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to visit not only the Keep and the Chapel, but also the Queen’s Pavilion.

*Chateau de Vincennes inner courtyards and buildings*

The Keep, or “donjon” seemed to be the perfect place to start my explorations. This fortified central tower, the tallest in Europe at the time, was built during the 14th century. Initiated by King Philippe VI in 1340, later his son Jean II of France and subsequently, his son, the future Charles V, the fortress with high walls, towers and a keep were completed by 1370. Charles V moved into the Keep with some construction still underway. As I moved through the massive structure with its 52 meter tower in the center, I read through the signage describing each of the areas’ usage.

The ground floor of the Keep has wells and the remains of a large fireplace, probably originally used by royal servants. It was largely rebuilt when the building was used as a prison.

*View of Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes and King and Queen Pavilions from the Keep*

The first floor contained the meeting hall of the Council of the King, and was also used when needed for bedchambers of the Queen and others close to the King. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, some of which are still in place.

The second floor was occupied by the bedchamber of the King, and has decorations added by Charles V of France when he rebuilt it from 1367–38. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, and the vaulted ceiling was decorated with sculpted keystones and consoles and painted flour-de-Lys and the coat-of-arms of the King, against a blue background, still visible. A small oratory is set into the north wall, though its wood paneling has disappeared.

The third floor has the same plan as the second, but lacks the ornate decoration of the royal floor. It was probably used by important guests of the King.

The fourth, fifth and sixth floors, which lack ornament, were probably used by domestic servants or soldiers. They were also used to store munitions for the weapons placed at the windows of the fourth floor and on the terraces of tower of latrines and the main body of the keep. The sixth floor has no windows and a ceiling only two meters high, and a single entrance. Beginning in 1752, the upper floors were used primarily as prison cells. The bars in the windows and doors date from that period. The extensive and elaborate graffiti still found on the walls on the upper floors also dates from the 17th and 18th century.

After Charles death, it remained a place of refuge for future kings, eventually converting to a prison and finally, a military installment. In fact, the most interesting portions of the keep were one of the areas used for the restraint of prisoners. In this area, I spotted many signatures etched onto the walls and the remains of murals painted on the walls by these prisoners, the most beautiful being those completed by Monseigneur Boulogne, confessor of Napoleon I, imprisoned on his orders. This room was also used to later keep the Comte de Mirabeau, who spent three years imprisoned at Vincennes where he wrote about the abuses of the royal warrant. Other famous prisoners included Denis Diderot (1713-1784), François-Vincent Raspail (1794-1878), the Marquis de Sade (1777-1784).

My tour of the Keep complete, I headed across to Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes. Having been to the beautiful chapel of Sainte Chapelle in Paris’ Ile de Cite, I was curious to see how they would compare.

Conceived by Charles V as his dream to add an exceptional religious monument to the fortress and a place to house the relics of the Passion of Christ, he did not live to see its culmination. With construction beginning in 1379, it still remained unfinished in the 16th century. King Francois I, a frequent resident, resolved to bring it to its completion in 1520, to celebrate the birth of his son and heir. Upon his death, Henry II of France resumed construction, completing the vaults and overseeing the addition of woodwork and stained glass with its completion in 1552.

While both are built in the Gothic style and organized in the same manner, this one seemed much more narrow and more brightly lit. Devoid of seating or ornamentation aside from the windows and the altar, it was a clear view of the sole internal space, especially from the rear choir loft, in contrast to Sainte Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite having two levels, upper for the King and his family and the lower for ordinary members of the court.

The sacristy, a separate two story structure, is attached to the chapel at the oratory of the King on the north side of the chapel and a stunning funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien can be found inside as well.

*Funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien*

Exiting the Chapel I headed through the arches into the courtyard of the Pavilions of the King and Queen. A beautiful, open and grassy space each building, the King’s Pavilion on the southwest corner and the Queen’s opposite.

*View of the King and Queen Pavilion Courtyard*

The King’s Pavilion was constructed between 1610 and 1617 by Louis XVIII and modified over the years to enlarge the structure. Consisting of three stories with five rooms for the King, his apartment looked our west over the gardens. Today, parts of the King’s Pavilion ceiling can be found in the Egyptian collection of the Louvre Museum.

The Queen’s Pavilion was construction many years later, from 1658 to 1660 and followed the same basic design as the King’s structure, however, instead of a garden view, it overlooked the courtyard. As the Germans stored explosives in the two pavilions and these caught fire after an explosion, the building fell in to disrepair.

*King’s Pavilion, upper middle. Queen’s Pavilion, middle*

On this visit, I was able to visit the King’s Pavilion, which houses an exhibition of the Fortresses of the Emperor depicting Napoleon and his military engineers. Personal possessions, artillery, portraits, models and other objects were found on the second floor and although the signage was in French, it was nice to see part of the interior of the building.

As the day was winding to a close and the temperature started to drop, I decided that my exploration of Chateau de Vincennes was at its end. Making my way back to the entrance gate, I headed back to the metro with the same name…

Chateau de Vincennes.

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Chateau de Vincennes

https://www.chateau-de-vincennes.fr/
Address: Avenue de Paris, Vincennes, FR 94300
Hours: 1000-1700, daily
Admission: 9,5€

Tour Number Two

“Anyone want to go to finish of the Tour de France today?”

For twenty-three days, cyclists compete in the Tour de France, one of the greatest races in the world. Consisting of twenty-one stages that pass through villages and hamlets throughout the country, thousands of spectators line the streets and roadsides to cheer on the competitors and be part of the national celebration. The final stage speeds its way down the Avenue des Champs-Elysees on its final day, a day almost akin to a national holiday for the French.

My husband had always followed the Tour de France. Me? Not so much, but I knew that Lance Armstrong was a top contender that year and I just so happened to be in Paris for the finish of the great race. Of course, I was going to go!

Many of my coworkers were convinced that it “was going to rain”, that we “weren’t going to be able to get there”, that we “wouldn’t be able to see anything even if we got there”. In the end, only three of us decided to take the chance and headed out toward the Arc de Triomphe.

It was my first Tour de France and…

…it did not rain.

…we were able to get there.

…we saw everything!

Lance Armstrong won that year and we were able to watch the racers streak by from our perch atop some hikers’ backpacks on the Avenue des Champs-Elysees. We also learned from two British gentlemen, who attended every year, that once the award ceremony was completed, we shouldn’t leave…the riders would come by slowly for victory laps and we would be able to capture some amazing photos! For never having had much interest in a cycling race, it was one of the most amazing experiences of my life!

Of course, the next day, those who told us not to go…were…well…a bit jealous, to say the least!

Over the years, I always thought I would go back to witness the finish of Tour de France again, but each June would go by and as I saw it playing out on television, I realized that my schedule that year, wouldn’t allow it.

Until this year.

I was going to be in Paris for the finish of the Tour de France! Funny thing was that I didn’t plan to be. A last minute swap with a coworker had put me being in the City of Lights on Sunday, June 18. My husband, while watching one of the stages of the race, mentioned that our youngest son had ruined his Tour de France shirt. This brought to mind my upcoming trip. As I checked the website and my calendar, I was amazed…the finish would be on the very day that I would be there! And although, things were going to be a bit different due to Covid restrictions, wild horses couldn’t keep me from going down to the Champs-Élysées to witness tis amazing spectacle!

After arriving in Paris that morning and a brief nap, we all headed down to the Arc de Triomphe to try and secure a primo viewing spot. The area was cordoned off by metal barricades and we had to walk for blocks to find an entrance. At the entrances, guards were checking vaccination cards and negative Covid test results to allow entry to the Avenue des Champs-Élysées.

Still early in the afternoon, we headed down the avenue noticing that there were no hordes of spectators lining the edges of the barricades yet. Checking the expected arrival of the racers on the Tour de France app, we realized that we still had a bit of time, so we decided to grab a bite to eat and a couple of beers.

As my cohorts enjoyed their food, I kept a close eye on the adjacent barriers, determined to have that front row seat that getting there early enough would merit.

Finally, we picked our spots…front row…and waited…anticipation mounting. Trips to the beer cart down the street may or may not have helped to pass the time.

Sirens filled the air and police motorcyclists sped down the Champs de Elysees. But no riders yet! What I had not remembered was that the racers were preceded by the publicity parade. This caravan, made up of many of France’s major brands in dedicated vehicles, advertise their wares and usually throw out free gifts to eager and waiting hands. This year, due to Covid, you guessed it…no free gifts! But still, the publicity parade is great fun and many people come to the race primarily for this part of it, not just to see the racers.

As a roar swept through the crowd, making its way down toward us, we realized that they were finally here. Flashes of metal and colored jerseys departed as quickly as they arrived as the sheer speed of the cyclists made it nearly impossible to distinguish one from the other until the main pack slowed each other’s speeds. It was almost unimaginable, the endurance needed for these riders to make it to this point in the race, riding 100km for three weeks in physically challenging terrain.

After ten laps, we didn’t see the riders any more. That was it. It was over! No fanfare, no rider slicing through a ribbon at the finish line. We weren’t that close to the end point. We did learn, however, that the winner was 22-year old, Slovenian Tadej Pogačar (UAE Team Emirates) with Denmark’s Jonas Vingegaard and Ecuador’s Richard Carapaz behind him in second and third place.

Although during the last time I had attended, we had ventured down to the podium to watch the award ceremony, prior to the victory laps, it was not meant to be for the Tour de France 2021. My companions were not as eager to wait an unspecified time for something that may or may not have been cancelled due to Covid…and they were hungry!

So off we went…but with a new Tour de France t-shirt for my husband!

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Tour de France

https://www.letour.fr/en/

The Catholic Superstar

St. Vincent de Paul was born on April 24, in 1581 in the region of Landes, France. Growing up with deeply religious beliefs, he felt the calling to the priesthood early on and was ordained at the age of 19.

Working as a chaplain for Queen Margaret de Valois, he also served as a tutor to the Gondi family. It was during this time that he realized the inequities between the rich and poor and took on the rectification of this situation as his life’s mission.

After sixty years in the priesthood, where he served the poor and suffering, St. Vincent de Paul died on September 27, 1660. Canonized only 77 years later (considered record time) by Pope Clement XII, he was considered a saint among saints and such a Catholic superstar that in 1969, Pope Paul VI added his Feast Day to the official calendar as the 27th of September.

On a brisk fall day, it was this illustrious saint that I had come in search of in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. Located only a couple of blocks from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, where the saint’s heart is enshrined, the Shrine of St. Vincent de Paul (not to be confused with the Church of St. Vincent de Paul in the 10th arrondissement) is located inside the Church of the Lazarists Mission and houses a wax effigy of the saint.

Entering the church, I was surprised to find something extremely different from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, which I had just visited. An impressive festooned interior with intricate details decorating the walls, columns and doorways was framed by a high arched ceiling enhanced with blue and gold painting and framed, gilded medallions. While my impression of the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal had been of one that was light and airy, this church was more grand and elaborate and my eyes were immediately drawn to the grand altar filled with statues. Above the tabernacle, I could see the glass reliquary and St. Vincent de Paul’s likeness displayed within.

Since I had conducted some research before my visit, I was aware of the story of his exhumation. When first unearthed, the saint’s body first appeared to be incorrupt, however, when flooding damaged the area where his body had been placed, it began to show signs of decay. His heart was removed and sent to the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal and his skeletal remains covered with wax giving him a very realistic appearance.

Following the modest story of St. Vincent de Paul, conveyed through the pictures displayed in the stained glass and a canvas by Brother Francois, I walked along the side aisles which also displayed many statues and the casket containing the remains of St. Jean-Gabriel Perboyre. The polished marble floor reflected the lighting and the beautiful blue tiled ceilings.

From my viewpoint in front of the altar, I looked upward, admiring the glass and silver reliquary, designed by Odiot, the best goldsmith of his era. I bowed my head, said a prayer and continued on throughout the remainder of the church. As I neared the exit, I turned for one last look and a movement at the reliquary caught my eye.

A person.

Thinking it must be a member of the staff, I once again prepared to depart when I noticed the person hold up their cellphone for a selfie.

There had to be a way up there.

Making my way back toward the front of the church, I began to search for the way up. Deep behind the altar, I found it…a dual stairway, on either side, leading up to the holy treasure!

An easy climb led me to the top, allowing for the veneration of the relics at an amazingly close distance, and also being able to appreciate the outstanding craftsmanship of the reliquary, the intricate statues that guard the icon and a bird’s eye view of the church.

Thankful that I had turned for that one last look…I may have missed the most important part of this unique shrine.

Missing the ability to be so near the reliquary of such an important Catholic saint is only part of the issue with the church. A simple structure that one may just stroll by while in the area due to its plain facade, it must be sought out with a purpose. It is not a structure that a person simply stumbles upon…unless you like entering random doorways…however, it is one that any person with an affinity for Catholic history should seek out. Not only a beautiful church, it is one that honors an amazing Catholic saint.

Seek out this superstar…he’s still shining bright.

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The Shrine of Saint Vincent de Paul

Address: 95 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1400-1900 (unverified)
Admission: free
Getting There: By Metro, Vaneau or Sèvres-Babylone stations. By Bus, number 39, 70 and 87.

The Miraculous Medal

Paris has always been a spiritual place for me.

Having associated the city with its beautiful churches, cathedrals and miracles that have occurred within the country, I truly love the peace it gives me when I visit.

Years ago, I found myself with an extra day to fill while in the city. Wandering through a part of town that I had never been to, I found the Chapel of Our Lady Miraculous Medal, tucked away on Rue de Bac, the location where the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré in 1830.

The chapel’s location, is quite inconspicuous and I doubt that you would find it if you were not actively trying to do so. Even so, thousands of visitors make their way to the chapel each year to attend mass and purchase the medals that Our Lady requested to be created.

Dating back to 1813, the chapel was dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus and located in the Hôtel de Châtillon. It was expanded in 1849 and many times in the years after its inception. The chapel we see today, was completed in 1930, however, the tabernacle, dating back to the seventeenth or eighteenth century is still as it was in 1815, coming from the building given to the Daughters of Charity in 1800.

When Catherine Labouré was a seminary sister at the mother house of the Daughters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul, she began having visions. In the first, Saint Vincent de Paul showed her his heart, each time in a different color; white (peace), red (fire) and black (misfortunes that would come upon Paris and the entire country). Her second vision displayed Christ presented in the Sacred Host, and then on The Feast of the Holy Trinity, He appeared as a crucified King, stripped of his adornments.

Her final vision came at the age of 24, when she received three visits from the Blessed Virgin Mary. On July 18, the Blessed Virgin requested that Confraternity of the Children of Mary be established. Mary’s second request was that a medal be created with the following invocation, “O Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee.” Following her orders, the medal was forged and since its creation, countless miracles have been attributed to the medal as well as conversions and protection for those seeking it.

Everyone knows about the miracles that occur at Lourdes, however, it has been said that more miracles have occurred through devotion to the Blessed Mother while praying with this medal. It became known as the Miraculous Medal when during the cholera epidemic in Paris, in 1832, the Sisters handed out medals and many people were unexpectedly cured and then turned their faith to God.

The first thing you notice upon entering the chapel, besides the large number of the devoted bowing their heads in prayer, is how light and airy the space is. High ceilings frame the chapel and tall columns line either side, making way for the side aisles containing the shrine of Saint Louise de Marillac, co-foundress with Saint Vincent de Paul of the Daughters of Charity and the reliquary containing the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul.

As I approached the altar, I admired the tabernacle decorated with an angel carrying a cross and its carved door depicting the nativity, crowned with a shining star. The tabernacle is flanked by two light-carrying angels and topped by a beautiful ivory crucifix. Towering above the tabernacle is the large marble statue of the Virgin with the Rays.

Another statue of Mary, the Virgin of the Globe, caught my eye, holding the world in her hands.

I walked over to inspect the aisle dedicated to Saint Vincent de Paul which contains the Altar of the Apparitions, a mosaic by Maison Maurmejean and the most important piece, the relic of the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul, which was brought to Paris from Turin during the Revolution.

Crossing over to the other aisle, I gazed upon the body of Saint Louise de Marillac, which has rested inside the chapel since 1920.

The main attraction of the chapel, however, is Catherine Labouré. Buried in the chapel in Enghien-Reuilly, the location of her death, the vault was opened at the time of her beautification and her body was found to be perfectly intact. It was transferred to the chapel and presently lies under the altar of Our Lady of the Globe in a glass coffin. Many of the faithful kneel before her, laying down their burdens and tribulations.

After a few minutes spent in prayer, I headed out into the courtyard and into the gift shop. There are many styles and sizes of the Miraculous Medal available for purchase as well as rosaries, prayer books and prayer cards.

A site of spirituality and miracles, a visit to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal is a must for true believers. See the spot where these holy apparitions took place and see the person responsible for the medal. Purchase one, wear it and share it with other faithfuls.

The Miraculous Medal Prayer

O Virgin Mother of God, Mary Immaculate, We dedicate and consecrate ourselves to you under the title of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. May this Medal be for each one of us a sure sign of your affection for us and a constant reminder of our duties toward you. Ever while wearing it, may we be blessed by your loving protection and preserved in the grace of your Son. O Most Powerful Virgin, Mother of Our Savior, keep us close to you every moment of our lives. Obtain for us, your children, the grace of a happy death; so that in union with you, we may enjoy the bliss of Heaven forever.
Amen.

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Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal

http://www.chapellenotredamedelamedaillemiraculeuse.com/langues/english/the-chapel-of-our-lady-of-the-miraculous-medal/
Address: 140 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris
Hours: Tuesday, 0745-1900, Wednesday through Monday, 0745-1300 and 1430-1900
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Sevres-Babylone (lines 10 and 12). Buses, 39, 63, 70, 84, 87, 94.

Bare Bones

The Catacombs of Paris…

Often the subject of many a horror movie, the catacombs maintain a place in countless imaginations as one of gruesome terror. Those who are claustrophobic refuse to enter thinking that as they make their way thru the passageways, the walls will close in around them, the bones coming to life! And there are many who are convinced that ghost roam these halls (well, actually they might).

Despite these fears, the Catacombs are a popular, yet dark feature in The City of Light with thousands of visitors lining up each day to roam the corridors and gaze upon the millions of bones that line the walls and walkways.

With so many famous cemeteries in Paris (Cimetière du Père Lachaise, Cimetière de Montmartre, Cimetière du Montparnasse), however, how did the catacombs come to be?

Limestone quarries, located on the outskirts of the city, provided construction materials for the city’s building and allowed for growth and expansion before the 18th century. Around this time, Parisian cemeteries were increasingly becoming overpopulated and many improper burials resulted in open graves and unearthed corpses. The stench of decomposing flesh and the risk of disease led those who resided close to these cemeteries to complain to the authorities.

In 1763, Louis XV issued an edict which banned all burials within the city, however, the Church fought back, not wishing to disturb the dead. In 1780, massive rains caused flooding which resulted in a wall around the cemetery of Les Innocents to collapse, spilling rotting corpses onto the neighboring properties. Finally, French authorities were forced to take action.

The quarries were deemed an appropriate spot to relocate the bones and corpses from the overcrowded cemeteries. In 1786, the Tombe-Issoire quarries were blessed and consecrated and they became what we now know as the Paris Catacombs. Moving the bodies from Les Innocents took over two years and was followed by the relocation of bones from cemeteries throughout the city. By the French Revolution, however, the practice of burying the newly dead directly into the catacombs was instituted.

The process of transferring the bones was finally completed in 1860 and seven years later, the catacombs were opened to the public.

Access to the Catacombs, one of the fourteen City of Paris museums, is located near the Denfert Rochereau metro station in the Square de l’Abbe Migne. After waiting in the never-ending queue, you will descend via a staircase of 130 steps leading down 20 meters below ground. The area is dimly lit, and at times, narrow and low. There are many signs engraved on the walls, however, most will not be of any assistance in navigating the passageways. Architects and engineers of the Quarry Inspection Department marked their underground construction work during the 18th century. The number of the work site, initials and the year are engraved in the stone and are interesting to note. Other signs refer to the Arcueil Aqueduct, built between 1613 and 1623, on order from Marie de Medici, to bring water to the city from springs in Rungis and many of the passageways are identified by the avenues that run above them.

After a lengthy walk and an encounter with a display on the history of the catacombs, we soon came to the entrance to the ossuary, where a sign above the black and white doorways read “Stop, this is death’s empire!”. Stepping through the entryway, it is here that you finally encounter the remains of several million Parisians.

The first bones were thrown here randomly and it wasn’t until 1810, when Héricart de Thury, Inspector General of the Quarries, developed the area. Long bones and skulls were arranged decoratively to form a back wall, or hague, behind which the other bones are piled. Thury also created signage to indicate which Parisian cemetery the bones originated. His use of geometric shapes on the masonry pillars and decorative arrangement of the bones is fascinating and reminded me of the Capuchin Crypt in Rome, where bones are used to decorate the walls and used to make various objects within the crypt.

After a lengthy walk, I became separated from my companions and found myself completely alone. Though I was enthralled by the process of photographically capturing the unique bone formations, it suddenly dawned on me that I might have taken a wrong turn. Trying to remain calm, I continued on, positive that I was on the correct path toward the exit.

Finding the fountain “de la Samaritaine” (of the Samaritan woman) was a welcome sight. Knowing that this would be part of the tourist passageways, I realized that I must be on the correct path. The fountain is a well, around which a small circular area was designed, surrounded by wall of bones from the Les Innocents. The well was installed so that the quarry workers could make mortar for use in the construction of the hagues.

Finally, encountering other visitors, I found signs referring to the major events of the French Revolution, “Fighting at the Réveillon factory in Faubourg
Saint-Antoine on 28 April 1789” (where a workers’ protest ended in a massacre) and “Fighting at the Château des Tuileries on 10 August 1792” (where Swiss guards fought against Parisian units). During this time, the ossuary was used as a morgue and those killed in combat were brought to this location.

Nearing the end of the tour, my companions were alerted to my approach by the clicking of my camera. Here, I found them in the Crypt of the Passion, or the “tibia rotunda”. A supporting pillar is circled by skulls and tibias and form an impressive barrel shape. In 1897, a concert was held here between midnight and two in the morning. Over one hundred thrill-seeking attendees listened to Chopin’s Funeral March and the Danse Macabre as well as other pieces by Camille Saint-Saens.

Those same thrill-seekers are still fascinated by the Paris Catacombs today. Though open to the general public, access is limited to a small part of the network. Since, 1955, it has been illegal to enter other parts of the catacombs, however, the Cataphiles, urban explorers, have explored parts of the catacombs deemed off limits. Some areas have been reported to have been restored and turned into creative spaces by the Cataphiles, one with a secret amphitheater, complete with a giant cinema screen, projection equipment, a couple of films and seats and a neighboring area with a fully stocked bar and a restaurant. As many as 300 Cataphiles have been reported to enter the catacombs each week via secret entrances. Non-Cataphiles and tourists are not welcome.

Though this may be appealing to many, I myself, realizing how uneasy I was when I was alone during my visit, think I would rather remain in the areas that are monitored…and at least lit.

As we exited into the gift shop, we took a moment to look around at the merchandise offered and to utilize their restrooms. Stepping out onto the streets, near the intersection of Avenue Rene Coty and Rue Dareau, however, it became clear that our ending point was not near the beginning of our journey. Though we were able to swiftly determine the correct direction to return, it might be beneficial if signage pointed visitors back to the direction in which they came.

Where else in the world do you get to explore a city from below? For this reason, the Catacombs are a “must-see” and should not be missed! And, for those interested in Parisian history, this is for you!

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The Catacombs of Paris

http://www.catacombes.paris.fr/en/homepage-catacombs-official-website
Address: 1 Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014 Paris, France
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday from 1000-2030, last admission, 1930. Closed Mondays.
Admission: 13€, children under 18, free. Expect a long line to enter. Advance tickets may be purchased which offer a Skip the Line option for about 31€ which also includes an audio guide.
Getting There: Located across from the Denfert-Rochereau metro stop, in the Square de l’Abbe Migne

The Royal Necropolis

Off with his head!

Decapitated on the hill of Montmartre during the mid-third century, Saint Denis, the first patron saint of France and the first bishop of Paris, was said to have carried his head to the site where he wanted to be buried, the site of the present church…the Basilica of Saint Denis.

A shrine to Saint Denis was erected on the site, which was formerly a Gallo-Roman cemetery, and the Abbey of Saint Denis was established by Dagobert I, king of the Franks. In 636, on orders of Dagobert I, the relics of Saint Denis were reinterred into the location and then later removed when they were transferred to the parish church of the town in 1795. The relics were finally returned to the abbey in 1819. At the death of Dagobert in 639 until the 19th century, the Abbey of Saint Denis became the burial site of not only St. Denis, but the burial place of 43 kings, 32 queens and 10 servants to the monarchy. It is also interesting to note that the cathedral was only used for the coronation of French Queens, never the kings, that function being reserved for the Cathedral of Reims.

Today, Saint Denis is not on the Paris list of “must sees” but absolutely should be, as extraordinary as it is. Not many people I know, who have visited Paris, have heard of it or actually know where it is located. But, so impressed by my first visit a few years ago, I decided to make the journey to Saint Denis once again in the northern part of the city.

Taking the RER B, I headed north, changing lines to the RER D at Gare du Nord. Disembarking at Gare du St. Denis, I walked out of the station only to realize that nothing looked familiar. Asking for help, I proceeded to walk in the direction which I was pointed. About ten minutes later, following signs marking the way, I finally found the basilica.

Admittedly, the exterior is quite remarkable and some time should be taken to inspect and appreciate the intricate details on all facades of the church before entering. Admission to the nave is free and well worth a walk around. From here, you can determine why the church was promoted to cathedral status in 1966, so awesome is its beauty. Be sure to visit the gallery on the left side of the cathedral which showcases many royal items from past kings. From the nave, you can spy the tombs and monuments from afar, however, if you are aspiring to a closer look (which you will), you must pay the admission to the necropolis outside at the right of the basilica.

The entrance to the royal necropolis is just past the admission booth, however, take a minute to enter to Visitor’s Center which offers a detailed history of the cathedral as well as an architectural model of St. Denis and the surrounding area.

Once you’ve stepped back inside the basilica, you will realize how breathtaking it truly is. The architecture is impressive with its vaulted ceilings and transept roses, however, there is so much more to behold here. It is here that is the burial location of most French kings and the many monuments of kings, queens and others were moved here at the time of the Revolution, when the churches where they resided were demolished. Many of these tombs exhibit the effigies of those they represent, but no longer contain the remains, when during Revolutionary times, the tombs were opened by workers, under orders from officials, and the bodies removed and dumped into two large pits nearby. A great number, however, were saved by archaeologist Alexandre Lenoir who claimed them as artworks for his Museum of French Monuments.

Saint Denis, more of a museum of monumental sculpture, offers the largest collection of funerary sculpture from the 12th to 16th centuries and a large number of tombs of particular worth, Clovis I, the first to be moved to Saint Denis, two beautiful enameled brass effigies of Blanch and Jean, the children of St. Louis, a lovely effigy of Berthe (Big Foot), whose monument was part of a series commissioned by St. Louis. Be sure to set your eyes upon the colossal monuments of Francois I and Claude, Louis XII and Anne of Brittany and Henry II and Catherine de Medici, the parents in law of Mary, Queen of Scots. Most interesting is the monument to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, of which the remains were found on January 21, 1815 and brought to Saint Denis by the Bourbons and buried in the crypt in the Bourbon grave.

Ensure that you do not miss the stairways down to the ossuary and the crypt. The Bourbon Chapel, the first entrance down the stairs on the right, contains centographs from the 19th century which honors the Bourbon dynasty and the heart of Louis XVII. The Bourbon grave, as mentioned above, contains the remains of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. The royal ossuary contains bones exhumed from the royal tombs at the time of the Revolution gathered by Louis XVIII and placed behind two marble plates with the name of each monarch. The archaeological crypt presents the remains of earlier structures and was the location of the martyred saints, Saints Denis, Rustique and Eleuthière.

So enthralled was I by the intricately sculpted tombs each with their unique hand positioning and many with their beloved pets at their feet, that I had to remind myself to take note of the beautiful stained glass featured throughout; the north transept rose features the Tree of Jess and the south transept shows the Creation as well as exceptional modern glass and twelve misericords. Many of the panels have been removed for long-time conservation and replaced with photographic transparancies.

After spending a considerable part of the afternoon, closing time was drawing near and I was ushered outside to the now-closed gates by one of the cathedral employees. Not quite ready to leave, I spent a few minutes in the waning sunlight and captured a few more photos. Truly spectacular!

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Basilica of St. Denis

http://www.saint-denis-basilique.fr/en/
Map of the tombs in St. Denis: https://uk.tourisme93.com/basilica/map-of-the-tombs-saint-denis-basilica.html
Address: Basilique cathédrale de Saint-Denis 1, rue de la Légion d’Honneur,93200 Saint-Denis
Hours: January 2-March 31 and October 1-December 31, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 1000-1715. Sunday, 1200-1715. April 1-September 30, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 1000-1815. Sunday, 1200-1815. Closed on January 1, May 1 and December 25.
Admission: Adults, 9€, Under 26 years of age, 7€. Audio Guide, 4.50€, Under 18 years, 3€.
Getting There: Line 13, station Basilique de Saint-Denis. The Metro Station was a couple of blocks away from the cathedral and easily spotted by the colorful pot near the entrance. Taking the Metro allowed me to avoid the walk back to Gare du St. Denis for the RER.

All but three of the Kings of France are buried in the basilica in addition to a few other monarchs. The remains of the earlier monarchs were removed from the Abbey of St. Genevieve which was destroyed.

Clovis I (466-511)
Childebert I (496-558)
Aregund (515/520-580)
Fredegund (third wife of Chilperic I), (died 597)
Dagobert I (603-639)
Clovis II (634-657)
Charles Martel (686-741)
Pepin the Short (714-768) and his wife, Bertrada of Laon (died 783)
Carloman I (751-771)
Charles the Bald (823-877) and his first wife, Ermentrude of Orleans (823-869)
Carloman II (866-884)
Robert II of France (972-1031) and his third wife, Constance of Arles (986-1032)
Henry I of France (1008-1060)
Louis VI of France (1081-1137)
Louis VII of France (1120-1180) and his second wife, Constance of Castile (986-1032)
Philip II of France (1165-1223)
St. Louis IX of France (1214-1270)
Charles I of Naples (1227-1285, an effigy covers his heart burial
Philip III of France (1245-1285) and his first wife, Isabella of Aragon, Queen of France (1248-1271)
Philip IV of France (1268-1314)
Leo V, King of Armenia (1342-1393)
Louis XII of France (1462-1515)
Francis I of France (1494-1547)
Henry II (1519-1559) and Catherine de Medici (1519-1589)
Francis II (1544-1560)
Charles IX (1550-1574), no monument
Henry III (1551-1589), also King of Poland (heart burial monument)
Henry IV (1553-1610)
Louis XIII (1601-1643)
Louis XIV (1638-1715)
Louis V (1710-1774)
Louis XVI (1754-1793) and Marie Antoinette (1755-1793)
Louis XVII (1784-1795), heart burial
Louis XVIII (1755-1824)

Other Royalty and Nobility

Blanche of France (daughter of Philip IV)
Nicolas Henri, Duke of Orleans (1607-1611), son of Henry IV
Gaston, Duke of Orleans (1608-1660), son of Henry IV
Marie de Bourbon, Duchess of Montpensier (1605-1627), wife of Gaston
Marguerite of Lorraine (1615-1672), Duchess of Orleans and second wife of Gaston
Anne Marie Louise d’Orleans (1627-1693), la Grande Mademoiselle
Marguerite Louise d’Orleans (1645-1721), Grand Duchess of Tuscany
Jean Gaston d’Orleans (1650-1652), Duke of Valois
Marie Anne d’Orleans (1652-1656), Mademoisselle de Chartres
Henrietta Maria of France (1609-1669), wife of Charles I of Scotland and England
Philippe I, Duke of Orleans (1640=1701), brother of Louis XIV
Princess Henritta of England (1644-1670), first wife of Philippe
Elisabeth Charlotte of the Palatinate (1652-1722), second wife of Philippe
Maria Theresa of Spain (1638-1683), consort of Louis XIV
Louis of France (1661-1711), le Grand Dauphin
Maria Anna Victoria of Bavaria (1660-1690), Dauphin of France, wife of Louis
Princess Anne Elisabeth of France (1662), daughter of Louis XIV
Princess Marie Anne of France (1664), daughter of Louis XIV
Marie Thérèse of France, (667-1672), daughter of Louis XIV
Philippe Charles, Duke of Anjou (1668-1671), son of Louis XIV
Louis François of France (1672), Duke of Anjou, son of Louis XIV
Philippe II, Duke of Orléans (1674-1723), Regent of France
Louis of France (1682-1712), Duke of Burgundy
Marie Adélaïde of Savoy )1685-1712, Duchess of Burgundy
Louis of France (1704-1705), Duke of Brittany
Charles of France (1686-1714), Duke of Berry
Marie Louise Elisabeth d’Orléans (1695-1719), Duchess of Berry
Na (not baptized) d’Alençon (1711)
Charles d’Alençon (1713), Duke of Alençon
Marie Louise Elisabeth d’Alençon (1714)
Marie Leszczynska (1703-1768), consort of Louis XV
Louise Elisabeth of France (1727-1759), Duchess of Parma
Henriette of France (1727-1752), daughter of Louis XV and twin of above
Louise of France (1728-1733), daughter of Louis XV
Louis of France (1729-1765), Dauphin of France
Infanta Maria Teresa Rafaela of Spain (1726-1746), first wife of Louis of France, Dauphin of France
Maria Josepha of Saxony (1731-1767), second wife of Louis of France, Dauphin of France
Philippe of France (1730-1733, Duke of Anjou
Princess Marie Adèlaïde of France (1732-1800), daughter of Louis XV
Princess Victoire of France (1733-1799), daughter of Louis XV
Princess Sophie of France (1734-1782), daughter of Louis XV
Princess Louise of France (1737-1787), daughter of Louis XV
Louis Joseph, Dauphin of France (1781-1789), first son of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette
Princess Sophie Hélène Béatrice of France (1786-1787), second daughter of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette
Henri de La Tour d’Auvergne, VIcomte de Turenne (1611-1675), Maréchal General de France
Anne of Brittany, Duchess of Brittany (1477-1514), wife of Charles VIII and Louis XII

Papa Noël Would Be Proud

It’s Christmastime in the city!

Many European cities know how to do it up in grand style…in general and especially when it is Christmastime!

I have been to many Christmas markets in many different cities over the years (Frankfurt, Edinburgh, Amsterdam, Paris, London) and there is nothing like it to get you in the holiday spirit.

During the last couple of years, having been in Paris during the holidays, I have visited the market on the Champs Elysees. Last year, I have to admit, however, I was not very impressed with the types of merchandise offered and felt a little exposed being on either side of a major roadway. When I heard that the Champs Elysees market was not opening this year, it honestly did not surprise or disappoint me.

I knew that there were other markets in different parts of the city and a little research informed me that indeed the largest market was not the now defunct Champs Elysees but always had been the market at La Defense, operating since the early 1990s. Well, this was absolutely where I was headed.

Taking the metro was a relatively easy (although a bit lengthy) affair with only one switch. Arriving in the La Défense station, however, was quite confusing as we dodged the massive work crowd trying to get home for their dinner and weekend. Correctly assuming that the market would be near the Grande Arche, we followed the signs and found one of the entrances to the market.

For about six weeks, before, during and after Christmas, La Défense hosts the 12,000 sq. meter Christmas village. Laid out in a grid-like pattern with red carpeted walkways, 250 wooden chalets present a wide range of goods to entice eager holiday shoppers to part with their hard earned euros. Clothing items, ornaments, wooden games, jewelry, candy…you name it…it’s all there ready to be wrapped up and placed under your tree!

In addition to the shopping, there are countless choices of food items to be washed down with mulled wine, beer or hot chocolate. And don’t forget about dessert…waffles and crepes galore! If you can not find anything to tickle your fancy, however, remember that the Quatre-Temps mall and the CNIT are on either side of the market and offer a wide array of dishes.

The La Défense Christmas market also offers some other fun things…a virtual reality area, mascots who roam the market, a moving miniature Christmas village and Santa’s phone booth. Today’s youth! Why write Santa, or rather, Papa Noël (we are in France), a letter when you can use the direct line to give him a call at La Défense?

The whole area was lit beautifully and although it was a bit cold, we enjoyed walking around and admiring the beautifully crafted items. Our only complaint was that we didn’t feel like there were enough Christmas-y items. Although I found a regionally made nativity set for my collection, my friend was disappointed when she couldn’t find a Christmas ornament representative of Paris or even France for that matter. What we found was mass produced and evidently made in other countries.

At the end of our sojourn, before we headed back to the metro, we decided to climb the steps at the Grande Arche to look out over the area. I must say, with the skyscrapers on every side of the brightly lit market, it did make for a grand sight! Papa Noël would be proud!

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La Défense Christmas Market

From 23 November 2017 to 28 December 2017
Hours: Zone 1, food service, open 7 days a week, from 1100 to 2300 (0300 on December 31). Zones 2 and 3 open from Monday to Thursday, from 1100 to 2000, Friday until 2200, Saturday from 1000 to 2200.
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro Line 1, RER A, T2, Transilien train lines L and U

High On A Hill

Sitting high on a hill in Paris is a beautiful, white church. The Sacre Coeur.

The Roman Catholic church and minor basilica, designed by Paul Abadie, took thirty-nine years to complete and is one of the most visited landmarks in the city behind the Eiffel Tower. Not only dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the basilica represents a penance for the defeat of France in the 1871 Franco-Prussian War and the socialist Paris Commune of 1871. From its vantage point on the Butte Montmartre, it is the recognized center of one of Paris’s most famous neighborhoods.

Montmartre is one of my favorite places in Paris. I love watching the artists paint in the Place du Tertre, the hoards of tourists and sampling the fabulous array of food choices. I love strolling the park-like setting of the Montmartre cemetery, strolling by Van Gogh’s former apartment, the Moulin de laGalette and then posing with the Passer Through Walls statue. My favorite thing, however, is paying a visit to the remarkable Sacre Coeur.

A most beautiful basilica, I am always quieted by its interior with dazzling mosaics, colorful stained glass windows and handsome organ, built by Aristide Cavaillé-Coll.

Though we did pass through the interior, our main reason for coming to the Sacre Coeur was to visit the Dome.

Paying our entrance fees, we began the arduous climb (over 300 steps) to the top of the Dome. Though I had to stop a few times and my legs were quite shaky, we reached the top and Oh! What a view!

The entire city of Paris was spread before us from the forecourt of the Basilica. Earlier, we had seen the city from the level of the River Seine, now we were seeing it over 200 meters higher and from a different vantage point than the Eiffel Tower, the highest point in Paris. The entire city and countryside can be observed from the narrow balcony that circles the dome for a 360 degree view.

The upper architecture of the basilica can also be inspected from this perspective…the compelling rooflines, the rain diverting gargoyles and the adjacent lofty towers. And the best part…I could look down on the entirety of my favorite area, Montmartre.

Finally, we made our way down the three hundred (or so) stairs, a much easier journey down than up.

In Paris, there are many ways to spy upon the city…the Dome of the Pantheon, Montparnasse Tower, the Eiffel Tower, but go to the Sacre Couer for visions of one of the most interesting parts of the city! It’s a double deal…see the interior and the surrounding area.

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Sacre Coeur Basilica

http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/english/
Address: 35, Rue du Chevalier De La Barre, 75018 Paris
Hours: Main Entrance, Esplanade of the Basilica, 0600-2230
Admission: Basilica, free. Dome, Adults €6, Children, €4 (4-16yrs)
Getting There: Metro: Jules Joffrin (M° 12) + Montmartrobus (Place du Tertre stop), Pigalle (M° 12, M° 2) + Montmartrobus (Norvins stop), Anvers (M° 2) + Cable car (métro ticket) or steps, Abbesses (M° 12) + Cable car (métro ticket) or steps. Bus: 30 – 31 – 80 – 85 (Anvers Sacré-Coeur bus stop at foot of Montmartre)