castle – Snapping The Globe

Vibrant Verona

While visiting Venice is an amazing experience, after having been there many times, one gets the itch to see other cities in the region. Having already taken the train to Padua a few years prior, I was planning on seeing some other nearby cities. On this particular day, however, realizing that we had arrived a little earlier than normal, I decided to venture out a little further…to Verona.

Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, situated on the Adige River and known as the setting for two of William Shakespeare’s plays, Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Because of its artistic heritage and opera season staged in its Roman amphitheater, it attracts millions of visitors each year.

Ruled by the della Scala family during the 13th and 14th century, the city was extremely prosperous during their reign and this wealth can be spied throughout its boundaries today; in its monuments, walls and architecture and more. While I was aware that many tourists head straight to Juliet’s House and Museum, one of the most famous places in the city, I decided to do this as well, but also to see the other aspects that make this UNESCO World Heritage Site so special.

After the hour and ten minute train ride, I quickly ducked into a station shop to purchase a face mask for the return trip or for any other attraction which might require it. During my train ride, I had realized that KN95 face masks were still required on public transportation when conductors removed five British travelers at the stop prior to Verona’s Porta Nuova station. While I had a regular surgical mask, I realized that it was not enough and was thankful that I went unnoticed.

Thankful that crisis had been averted, I set out to walk to the city center, first stopping at the Porta Nuova (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=30718), the city’s old gate. Stopping for a few photos, I then continued on Corso Porta Nuova past Giardini Pradaval and its sculptures and statues, the Lapidary Museum Maffeiano and I Portoni della Bra the historic gate that once divided the city from the countryside and connects the Porta Nuova railway station to Piazza Bra. While I felt welcomed by the city gate Porta Nuova, it was when I walked through the arches of I Portoni della Bra that I felt as though I was truly entering the city and readied myself for the city’s beauty.

Having planned to see the amphitheater, I decided to take a detour and walk toward the river and the Castelvecchio Museum, since its opening hours were fewer. Making my way across its intimidating drawbridge into the courtyard, I then headed inside to make my way through its major Italian art collections distributed over twenty-nine rooms. Sculpture, paintings, ancient weapons, ceramics, goldsmiths, miniatures and ancient city bells were artfully displayed throughout the castle which dates back to the mid 1300s. While it was built as a residence for the della Scala family, it was mainly used for the military defense of the city and that is evident by its towering walls and battlements.

While I enjoyed my walk through the castle’s interior, what I really wanted to do was investigate the courtyards, the battlements and the clock tower. Climbing up the stairway, I made my way first to the rear of the castle and was rewarded with stunning views of the river and the Scaligero Bridge. It was a beautiful day and being out on the walls was the perfect place to be! Some of the passageways were a bit narrow but easy to navigate and to reach the seven towers. From the front of the castle, the views of the city, the large courtyard, the clock tower and the small courtyard beneath the tower were so stunning that I could have stayed up there all day. Finally, I passed through the adjacent walkway to the bridge and took a quick stroll across so that I could say “I did”.

If I was going to see everything, however, it was time to move on and I decided to continue my path along the Corso Cavour, which follows the river. A short stroll later, I passed the Arco dei Gavi, a massive, ancient white-marble arch which was was used as a gate in the walls during the Middle Ages. During the Napoleonic rule, French engineers demolished it and its ruins were moved to a square and then to the arena. In 1932, the arch was reconstructed, under Mussolini’s rule, in its current spot next to the Castelvecchio, very near its original location.

A little further down the road, I happened upon the Basilica di San Lorenzo. As I always make time for a church, I spent a few moments walking through this 12th structure. Built in the Romanesque style on the remains of a 5th or 6th century paleo-Christian building, using some of the original materials, it was interesting to see the two different types of building materials stemming from the different phases of construction…alternating brick and stone which gives the interior a striking pattern of strips in the columns and the walls and apse. Listening in to a tour guide’s spiel, I also learned that a unique feature is the presence of the women’s galleries, still intact and open onto three sides. Though my stop was a quick one, I was glad to see this beautiful church.

Near the Ponte della Vittoria, I decided to move into the city center as there was more to see in that domain. A few minutes later, I passed under the impressive Porta Borsari, the arched limestone gate, which dates back to the 1st century and served as the main entrance to the city.

There were many more churches, including the Church of St. Eufemia; some open, some closed for the afternoon, and as I spied many balconies, I thought of Juliet’s House, which I had planned to visit…whenever I got there! But of course, there was so much to see along the way!

Glancing at my watch, I decided to snatch a few moments at the Church of San Giovanni in Foro. A minor church, it was built on what was the main Roman road. Badly damaged by fire in 1172, while much of Verona was destroyed, its restoration in the early 1900s led to the discovery that Roman walls had been incorporated into the external walls of the church. It was small and dimly lit, but its beautiful mosaics, stone walls and ancient paintings made me glad that I had stumbled upon this gem.

Continuing on, I finally made my way to the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the center of the city’s political and economic life. There were many market stalls hawking souvenirs and food, but there were lots of statues, fountains and other landmarks to see. More importantly, the square is surrounded by many buildings and monuments that have marked the history of Verona…City Hall, Lamberti Tower, the Houses of Mazzanti, Maffei Palace, the Gardello Tower and the Casa dei Mercanti (Merchant’s House). What I loved most, however, was the ancient fountain (circa 1368) with its roman statue, Madonna Verona, built by Bonino da Campione, which stands proudly in the center of the square and welcomes visitors to investigate its history.

My goodness…what wasn’t there to see? I love everything about Rome and its “in your face architecture”, but the simplicity of Verona with the minor details that begged you to slow down and savor it was unlike anything I had ever experienced in Italy. Everywhere I laid my eyes, there was stunning construction, architectural details on every building, including balconies upon which other Italian ladies, like the fictional Juliet, may have stood, conversing down to their young paramours.

Finding my way to the Scaliger Tombs, I decided that I needed to enter the premises so that I could see these stunning tombs at close range. After paying my entrance fee, I was given a handout to guide me through the small courtyard. Each of the elaborate tombs were unique and some just outright ostentatious. While passerby could get a glimpse through the iron bars of all of the tombs, I thought it much better to see their beauty unobstructed.

These five funerary monuments celebrate the Scaliger family who ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century. Located in a wrought-iron fenced enclosure of the church of Santa Maria Antica, these Gothic tombs were constructed for the wealthy members of the noble Scaliger dynasty who ruled as the Lords of Verona; Cangrande I, Mastino II, Cansignorio, Alberto II and Giovanni.

The church was open and I was given a covering for my shoulders as I entered. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before leaving.

Finally, next on the list was the famed Juliet’s House, a short walk away. As expected, after walking through the short corridor to the courtyard, I found it extremely crowded with other visitors. Everyone was jockeying for position and waiting for their chance to pose with the bronze statue of Juliet. Noting the balcony above, and those also posing there for photographs, I figured out which door to enter to pay my admission.

Inside, there were statues paying homage to Shakespeare, another bronze statue of Juliet, period furniture and the bed and Renaissance costumes from Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film version of Romeo and Juliet. The wooden floors and artfully decorated ceilings were extremely cozy, although very roomy, depicting the wealth of the Capello family (from which the name Capulet was derived). Eventually, I was able to step out onto the balcony and also pose for a photo, but I was interested to find that even though the house dates back to 13th century, the balcony was only added during the 20th century.

On my way out, I noticed the red mailbox, which collects the letters “to Juliet” from visitors. Remembering the 2010 movie Letters to Juliet, I smiled at the messages visible in the small window in the center, glancing around, wondering where the women who volunteer to answer them were.

Just up the road, I happened upon Porta Leoni, the ancient gate that was built during the Roman Republic and features a double façade and two towers. Adjacent, below the street level are amazing Roman excavations.

The afternoon was dwindling away and although I had seen so much during my afternoon visit to Verona, I still wanted to see the amphitheater. Deciding to walk along the river in order to make navigation back to Corso Porta Nuova a little easier, I was stopped in my tracks by an imposing church on the corner.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore.

Oh, I was here and I couldn’t resist, so I went in, hoping I had enough time for everything else on my list…namely the amphitheater. The church was still open and I paid my admission, following the handout offered to me, which guided me to both the Upper and Lower churches.

Starting with the Lower church, I traversed the ancient staircase to reach the first and oldest cloister of the complex. Here, I marveled at the decorated ribbed vaults and frescoed columns which divided the space. Of particular note was the early 14th century fresco depicting the Virgin seated on a throne with baby Jesus and a 12th century fresco of the Baptism of Jesus. There is a tombstone of jurist Antonio Pelacani, who died in 1327, showing him teaching his students and another of scholar Master Omobono, built in 1330. In the presbytery, there is a wooden crucifix from the 14th century and in the right transept, the stone upon which saints Fermo and Rustico were beheaded.

Back upstairs in the Upper church, I found it to be a massive and towering space. Again, crumbling frescoes decorated the walls and a large wooden door was topped with a fresco of the Crucifixion of Christ. The single nave church contained five apses and of particular interest was the Della Torre altar, from the 18th century, Our Lady’s Chapel (1613), which contains a some significant paintings and the presbytery with its marble altar, created by Schiavi, on which the relics of Saints Fermo and Rustico are kept.

There were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel. Upper ChurchThere were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel.

Sadly, I had saved the amphitheater for last and it was not meant to be.

This time…

With so much to see in Verona, I was impressed with what I had undertaken and experience in a single afternoon. As there is much more enjoy in Verona, I realized that I would definitely return in the near future.

Pulling my KN95 mask from my bag…it was time to make that train.

.For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castelvecchio Museum

https://museodicastelvecchio.comune.verona.it/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=42545
Address: Corso Castelvecchio, 2, Verona, Italy
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000 to1800. Last entrance at 1715. Closed Mondays, December 24, January 1.
Admission: Adults, €6.00 (+ €.60 online presale), Children (ages 8-14 years), €1.00 (+€.10 online presale). Free admission for residents of 65 years in the Municipality of Verona, persons with disabilities and their companion, children up to 7 years, holders of the VeronaCard.

Arco dei Gavi

https://www.verona.in/verona/what-to-see/details/arco-dei-gavi
Address: Corso Cavour, 2, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Basilica di San Lorenzo

https://verona.com/it/verona/chiesa-di-san-lorenzo/
- Address: Corso Cavour, 28, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 0900-1200 and 1500-1700
  - Admission: free

Porta Borsari

Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 57A, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Chiesa di San Giovanni in Foro

Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 20, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: hours unknown
Admission: free

Piazza delle Erbe

https://verona.com/en/verona/piazza-delle-erbe/
Address: Piazza delle Erbe, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 0730-2030, daily
Admission: free

Scaliger Tombs

Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: €3 (unverified)

Juliet’s House

https://verona.com/en/verona/casa-di-giulietta/
Address: Via Cappello, 23, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 0900-1900, daily
Admission: Adults, €6

Porta Leoni

Address: Via Leoni, 37100 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours daily
Admission: free

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

https://www.chieseverona.it/it/le-chiese/la-chiesa-di-san-fermo
Address: Corte S. Elena, Piazza Duomo 35, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100-1800, Saturday, 0930-1800, Sunday, 1300-1800
Admission: Single entry €4. Entry to four churches, San Fermo, San Zeno, Cathedral Complex and Santa Anastasia, Basilica of San Zeno, the Cathedral Complex, the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, €8

Metro de Chateau

At one end of the Paris metro yellow line is La Defense, the other, Chateau de Vincennes.

The location of my work hotel is somewhere in between and I’ve visited La Defense’s Christmas market a few years ago, but never gave much thought to the other end of the line. La Defense is a business district, I just naturally assumed Chateau de Vincennes metro stop was named after the area, not an actual Château. In actuality, I was partly correct.

The area of Vincennes was formed in the late 18th century, when two village communities located north of the chateau joined together…the hamlet of La Pissotte, which was built towards the end of the 13th century and Basse-Coura subdivision created under Charles V originally used to house royal servants. In 1829, the territory was enlarged at the expense of Fontenay-sous-Bois and Montreuil. Vincennes now covers an area of some 192 hectares and has almost 50,000 inhabitants. It is one of the most densely populated towns in France.

But, there really is a chateau in Vincennes!

Setting out shortly after my arrival into Paris, I was excited at the prospect of seeing this chateau in Vincennes that this metro stop was named for.

Exiting the metro, I discovered massive walls and an imposing gate a short distance away on the Avenue de Paris. Complete with a draw bridge spanning a moat surrounding the premises, I was reminded of its long history and its need for defense during tumultuous times.

Chateau de Vincennes entrance

Built between 1361 and 1369, this preferred residence of the French Kings was known for its keep and for its beautiful chapel, Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes, although prior monarchs used the area during the century before construction commenced.

Passing through the gates, I glanced up at the bell tower and clock, the very first public clock in France (although now a reproduction with its original kept in Saint Chappelle). A little further, I walked into a large compound with buildings lining the walkway to both my left and right, and here, I discovered the ticket office. Although I had purchased my ticket prior to my arrival, I stopped inside to ensure that everything was in order and to confirm what my entry fee covered. Handed a map, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to visit not only the Keep and the Chapel, but also the Queen’s Pavilion.

*Chateau de Vincennes inner courtyards and buildings*

The Keep, or “donjon” seemed to be the perfect place to start my explorations. This fortified central tower, the tallest in Europe at the time, was built during the 14th century. Initiated by King Philippe VI in 1340, later his son Jean II of France and subsequently, his son, the future Charles V, the fortress with high walls, towers and a keep were completed by 1370. Charles V moved into the Keep with some construction still underway. As I moved through the massive structure with its 52 meter tower in the center, I read through the signage describing each of the areas’ usage.

The ground floor of the Keep has wells and the remains of a large fireplace, probably originally used by royal servants. It was largely rebuilt when the building was used as a prison.

*View of Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes and King and Queen Pavilions from the Keep*

The first floor contained the meeting hall of the Council of the King, and was also used when needed for bedchambers of the Queen and others close to the King. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, some of which are still in place.

The second floor was occupied by the bedchamber of the King, and has decorations added by Charles V of France when he rebuilt it from 1367–38. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, and the vaulted ceiling was decorated with sculpted keystones and consoles and painted flour-de-Lys and the coat-of-arms of the King, against a blue background, still visible. A small oratory is set into the north wall, though its wood paneling has disappeared.

The third floor has the same plan as the second, but lacks the ornate decoration of the royal floor. It was probably used by important guests of the King.

The fourth, fifth and sixth floors, which lack ornament, were probably used by domestic servants or soldiers. They were also used to store munitions for the weapons placed at the windows of the fourth floor and on the terraces of tower of latrines and the main body of the keep. The sixth floor has no windows and a ceiling only two meters high, and a single entrance. Beginning in 1752, the upper floors were used primarily as prison cells. The bars in the windows and doors date from that period. The extensive and elaborate graffiti still found on the walls on the upper floors also dates from the 17th and 18th century.

After Charles death, it remained a place of refuge for future kings, eventually converting to a prison and finally, a military installment. In fact, the most interesting portions of the keep were one of the areas used for the restraint of prisoners. In this area, I spotted many signatures etched onto the walls and the remains of murals painted on the walls by these prisoners, the most beautiful being those completed by Monseigneur Boulogne, confessor of Napoleon I, imprisoned on his orders. This room was also used to later keep the Comte de Mirabeau, who spent three years imprisoned at Vincennes where he wrote about the abuses of the royal warrant. Other famous prisoners included Denis Diderot (1713-1784), François-Vincent Raspail (1794-1878), the Marquis de Sade (1777-1784).

My tour of the Keep complete, I headed across to Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes. Having been to the beautiful chapel of Sainte Chapelle in Paris’ Ile de Cite, I was curious to see how they would compare.

Conceived by Charles V as his dream to add an exceptional religious monument to the fortress and a place to house the relics of the Passion of Christ, he did not live to see its culmination. With construction beginning in 1379, it still remained unfinished in the 16th century. King Francois I, a frequent resident, resolved to bring it to its completion in 1520, to celebrate the birth of his son and heir. Upon his death, Henry II of France resumed construction, completing the vaults and overseeing the addition of woodwork and stained glass with its completion in 1552.

While both are built in the Gothic style and organized in the same manner, this one seemed much more narrow and more brightly lit. Devoid of seating or ornamentation aside from the windows and the altar, it was a clear view of the sole internal space, especially from the rear choir loft, in contrast to Sainte Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite having two levels, upper for the King and his family and the lower for ordinary members of the court.

The sacristy, a separate two story structure, is attached to the chapel at the oratory of the King on the north side of the chapel and a stunning funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien can be found inside as well.

*Funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien*

Exiting the Chapel I headed through the arches into the courtyard of the Pavilions of the King and Queen. A beautiful, open and grassy space each building, the King’s Pavilion on the southwest corner and the Queen’s opposite.

*View of the King and Queen Pavilion Courtyard*

The King’s Pavilion was constructed between 1610 and 1617 by Louis XVIII and modified over the years to enlarge the structure. Consisting of three stories with five rooms for the King, his apartment looked our west over the gardens. Today, parts of the King’s Pavilion ceiling can be found in the Egyptian collection of the Louvre Museum.

The Queen’s Pavilion was construction many years later, from 1658 to 1660 and followed the same basic design as the King’s structure, however, instead of a garden view, it overlooked the courtyard. As the Germans stored explosives in the two pavilions and these caught fire after an explosion, the building fell in to disrepair.

*King’s Pavilion, upper middle. Queen’s Pavilion, middle*

On this visit, I was able to visit the King’s Pavilion, which houses an exhibition of the Fortresses of the Emperor depicting Napoleon and his military engineers. Personal possessions, artillery, portraits, models and other objects were found on the second floor and although the signage was in French, it was nice to see part of the interior of the building.

As the day was winding to a close and the temperature started to drop, I decided that my exploration of Chateau de Vincennes was at its end. Making my way back to the entrance gate, I headed back to the metro with the same name…

Chateau de Vincennes.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Chateau de Vincennes

https://www.chateau-de-vincennes.fr/
Address: Avenue de Paris, Vincennes, FR 94300
Hours: 1000-1700, daily
Admission: 9,5€

The Other Side of Havana

Old Havana is filled with history, architecture, landmarks, entertainment, restaurants and museums. One would be hard pressed to not find something that interests them during their visit.

There are many other parts of the city, however, that offer up some amazing items of interest, so making a priority to step outside of the box is essential.

When I had gone on my tour of the city, we had visited the areas of Vedado, Centro Habana and Habana Viejo and crossed through the tunnel to Habana del Este. There was a brief stopover at the Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and a drive by of Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana, the two fortresses that lay to the east of the entrance canal to the Bay of Havana. Since I didn’t have the time to properly explore each of these or the Military Exhibition, I decided that I needed to return on my last afternoon in the city.

But how would I get there?

Toying with the idea of taking the ferry to the Christ Statue, I decided that it would be a long walk to each of the fortresses and back. Remembering that I had seen many taxi cabs parked by the Plaza 13 de Marzo, I headed in that direction, thinking that cab fare would not be much just to cross through the tunnel from that point. Quickly locating a driver, I discovered that cab fare to the east side was a flat rate of only $10 CUC. A short drive ensued and I was dropped at El Morro.

After I paid the entrance fee, I made my way through a long, semi-arched tunnel. Exiting in the bright sunshine, I found myself on the colossal ramparts of the castle, complete with sweeping views of the the city across the waterway and the Battery of Twelve Apostles below. These twelve cannons, along with with the cannons on the ramparts, helped assist in the defense of the Havana Harbor and the city.

This iconic landmark was built between 1589 and 1630 and together with the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, on the opposite side of the bay, was a major part of the city’s defense fortification system. To safeguard the harbor from pirates and other invaders, a chain was strung between the two fortresses.

The fortress grounds are sprawling and contain several museums; Museo del Morro, Museo de la Navegación and Museo de Piratas. These museums display artifacts and items related to the castle’s history, the city’s maritime history and pirate folklore. The most stunning part of the complex, however, is the lighthouse which was built in 1846. The lighthouse was constructed to take the place of the watchtower that was destroyed by the British during their siege in 1762.

Hoping to enjoy the views of the fort and surrounding areas from a higher vantage point, I approached the lighthouse. Finding the door open, I ventured in and made my way up the curved staircase. As I neared the top, however, I heard a voice which appeared to be talking to another on a two-way radio. Thinking that maybe I was entering somewhere where I should not be, I quickly made my way back down and out of the structure. Having to be content to enjoy the lighthouse from the castle level, I also made my way through the exhibit which detailed lighthouses throughout Cuba. It is also interesting to note that El Morro once housed a school for lighthouse keepers.

Although it was still sweltering during the afternoon, I made my way around the fort, admiring the rusted cannons, central barracks, the old latrines and the small memorial, commemorating the 1762 siege, located between the two strong powder rooms in the northeast bastion. There was also a stairway which contained many clay vats leading to a hidden exit at the Star platform. These earthenware jars are called tinajones and were place there for the storage of the oil used in the lighthouse. Now empty, it was worth the descent for the lovely views of the water, the city and the Battery of the Twelve Apostles.

After a quick stop in the cafe for some much needed water, a walk through the vendor’s stalls and a walk around the grounds, I decided to make my way to the east and the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana. Known as one of the most complex and expensive defense systems in the Americas, it is also one of the largest.

Constructed in the 18th century with some of most advanced military defensive features, it was named after King Carlos III of Spain, who demanded a spyglass to see it from Madrid. He claimed that such a fortress, which cost so much, surely could be seen across the ocean!

Over the years, the fortress has been used as a prison, a storage facility and, more famously, as the command headquarters of Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara. After renovations were completed the early 1990s, different museums were opened within the complex including the Museo de Armas (Museum of Arms), Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara) and a museum of the history of the fortress.

Most famously, La Cabana is known for attracting thousands of locals and visitors each night to witness a tradition that began in the eighteenth century; the firing of the 9 o’clock cannon. Having heard the shot from my location in Old Havana each night, I had hoped to witness the spectacle at the fortress during my visit.

As I arrived in the late afternoon, after a short walk from El Morro, I was able to enter via the great drawbridge, which in turn, led to another bridge which crossed the now-dry moat. The innards of the fort was laid out much like a small city and I admired the repetitive framework. Making my way to the ramparts to admire the restored cannons and the excellent views of both the city and of El Morro, I marveled at the sheer size of this place.

Discovering the Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara), I explored the items of interest that were once in his possession, including the desk from which he made revolutionary decisions. Next door, I was welcomed by an elderly gentleman who was manning the International Book Fair, held here annually…a great place to visit, if you read in Spanish.

Out in the courtyard, I found the inimitable sundial which told me that it was around five o’clock, the time which everything begins to shut down around the city. Since no one was asking me to leave, I continued my explorations, but found the chapel and the Museum of Arms closed. Noting that vendors were setting up, I realized that they must do so each evening in anticipation of the crowds that arrive for the cannon firing. Although I walked around a bit more, I realized that the restaurants I had encountered were not open. I was tired, hungry, ready for a shower and nine o’clock was a few hours away. Besides, I wasn’t even sure how I was going to get home!

Stopping for a few more photo opportunities on my way out, I hesitated at the road. Should I turn right and head toward the Christ Statue and try to catch the ferry back to Havana or should I turn left and head back to El Morro where I might be lucky enough to find an empty cab? It was a tough decision because I really didn’t know how far I was from the ferry. Turning toward El Morro, I prayed for a passing cab. Some passed with patrons and an empty one did drive by, but I did not see it until it was too late to flag it down! Continuing down the road, I finally made it back to El Morro and as luck would have it, I saw an old Russian cab.

Now, I had ridden in many classic cars during my visit, but this type of car was one that I had maybe only seen during my trips to Moscow years ago; the Russian Lada. It wasn’t a very smooth ride back through the tunnel, but it certainly was unique! The little old gentleman driving put on “Mack the Knife” as he swerved, bumped and sped me back to Old Havana. It was seriously one of the funniest, yet terrifying moments I have ever had in a cab…and I take cabs in New York regularly! (Check out the video on Facebook, Snapping the Globe).

Finally, setting my feet on terra firma and still a bit shaky, I headed back to my Airbnb for my last night.

My last night to enjoy delicious Cuban food…

My last night to say admire the amazing architecture…

My last night to hear the cannon firing…

My last night to lay in bed and listen to the city outside my door…

My last night to enjoy my Airbnb host’s hospitality…

I realized that for all my uncertainty about taking this trip, I had found a place that rated in the top of my all-time favorite places! A place that I will certainly return in the future. After all, there were still many things to see within the city and so much outside of it!

Yes, Cuba…I am coming back!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro

Address: Havana, Cuba
Hours: 1000-1900, daily
Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)

Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana

Address:
Hours: 1000-2200, daily
Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)

Halfway Thru Havana

Three o’clock and thirsty.

There was still plenty of daylight and most attractions in Cuba did not close for a little while. I needed a plan of action that might include a frosty beverage!

Grabbing a seat on a rustic bench, I took a second to regroup.

Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio near the Revolution Museum caught my eye. I had just been near there and it meant a little backtracking, but there were many restaurants just around the corner and it would be nice to have a seat and something to drink.

Though the church was not open, I discovered that it sat on a pretty, yet tiny, colonial square, Plazuela de Santo Ángel. A lovely bronze statue of a woman holding court in front of the church captured my attention. She was dressed in vintage attire, holding a fan and appeared to have just left the church and was going to do her business in Old Havana.

Although there is a placard on the church wall which tells visitors about this woman, Cecilia Valdes, I had to wait until later to decipher who she was as it was written in Spanish. What I later learned was that this woman is the title heroine of a popular 19th century book which had a scene set at this location. The book has inspired operas, literary reiterations and a feature film and has been considered one of the most important novels detailing life in 19th century Cuba. You can also take note of the bust on the nearby wall of Cirilo Villaverde, the Cuban poet, novelist, journalist and freedom fighter. He is known especially for one great literary piece of work. Yes…the novel, Cecilia Valdes!

As I made my way away from the square, I was intrigued with the area. There were captivating outdoor cafes, fun souvenir shops and colorful fans hanging above the street. It was a beautiful afternoon and it was nice to take a seat under one of the large umbrellas and enjoy a refreshing cerveza!

Once again, I continued my explorations and there was a great detail to take in; small, beautifully crafted tiles on buildings, artists putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces, bits of grafitti, a statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and city wall ruins in the Parque Cespedes La Maestranza and the Police Headquarters situated in a old fortress, were just a few of the treasures that I encountered along the way.

Music playing in the distance caught my ear and I followed the tune. Finding myself in the Plaza de la Catedral, a known locale of countless street performers, I stared up at the profound Havana Cathedral, also known as the Catedral de San Cristobal. One of the eleven cathedrals on the island, it serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese. Built between 1748 and 1777, it was consecrated in 1782.

The Baroque architectural style is quite commanding as you stand before the cathedral in the plaza and if your eye is quite discerning, you may notice that the two bell towers are of unequal size and height. Approaching the facade, I noticed that there were fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone, quickly realizing that the Cathedral is constructed from coral. It is quite beautiful and I could not wait to see what its interior held, especially knowing that it was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini.

The interior is decorated in the neoclassical style and has a central nave, two side aisles, eight side chapels and is in the form of a Latin cross. Though my initial impression of the interior was that it was stunning, with its palatial columns and soaring vaulted ceilings, I realized that it was more of an understated beauty. I have seen my share of opulent religious building throughout the world and this one was not of that class. It was, however, welcoming and offered many sculptures, paintings and frescoes throughout its interior. Some of these paintings and frescoes are by masters Peter Paul Rubens and Bartolome Esteban Murillo. Other standouts are a statue of Apolinar Serrano, Spanish bishop of Havana, who is buried in the Cathedral, a sculpture of Saint Christopher, the Patron Saint of Havana, three fading frescoes by Giuseppe Perovani above the altar, a canvas of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of the Cathedral, and on the altar, sculptures and goldsmith works made in Rome during the first half of the 19th century.

The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Christopher and between 1796 and 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept in the Altar of the Gospel before being taken to the Seville Cathedral in Spain after the Cuban War of Independence.

Finding the side door open, I ventured out and discovered access to the right belltower. I suspected that someone is usually stationed at the entrance to collect an admittance fee, however, no one was present. Making my way up each level of the campanile, I had bird’s eye views of each of the mighty carillons as well as panoramas of the plaza below and even a view across the river of the Christ of Havana. A small gate was unlocked and I discovered that it led onto a portion of the roof. Since there was no one to tell me that I was not allowed and no signs, I ventured to the area and was rewarded with close glimpses of the tiled roof and the spectacular flying buttresses.

After my visit to the Cathedral was complete, I headed back out into the Plaza de la Catedral. Musicians were performing at the El Patio restaurant and locals and visitors were dancing in the square. There were gaily dressed Cuban women, seated at tables and telling fortunes and a general sense of celebration. Walking down the Empedrado, I witnessed many artists along the thoroughfare and older women holding tight between their teeth, one of the things Cuba is known for. It seems that they have learned that tourists love the photo opportunity to pose with a cigar smoking old lady! Here, I also found La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar which lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the establishment since its opening in 1942. Though I would have loved to go inside, the line was fairly long and I really would have preferred to come back in the evening for a proper drink.

Cutting back across the Plaza de la Catedral, my next destination was the Plaza de Armas, Havana’s oldest square. Originally known as Plaza de Iglesia for a church that stood on the site, it was developed in the 1520s. Its current name was adopted in the late 16th century, when the governor used the site to conduct military exercises.

Today, the square is centered with a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and bounded by some important buildings which include the 18th century Palacio de Los Condes de Santovenia (now known as the Hotel Santa Isabel), El Templete, the Public Library, the Museum of Natural History, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.

Hoping to be able to visit the Castillo de la Real Fuerza before closing time, I raced around the property to find the entrance. Luckily, I was allowed inside and began my exploration of the oldest Spanish stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere.

Constructed between 1555 and 1577, to safeguard against pirate attacks, it later became the official residence of the Governor of Havana and served as Cuba’s National Archive and National Library. After the Revolution, it housed government offices and a museum of arms. Today, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, serves as a Museum of Ceramics and a Maritime Museum.

After making my way through the lower level and discovering the maritime artifacts located there, I ventured to the second level which houses the bulk of the Maritime Museum and includes the Naval Model-Making Salon and the Underwater Archeology Warehouse. The most spectacular part of the second level, however, is the watchtower which was added in 1634 and is now a symbol of the city. This watchtower is adorned with a bronze statuette, a replica of La Giraldilla of the Seville Cathedral and is used as a weather vane. Though I originally had no knowledge of this watchtower, it was the ladies keeping watch over the museum salons who wanted me to see what made the castle special, that unlocked the door and let me out on the balcony to see it up close!

Upon my departure from the castle, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas. As I entered the gates of El Templete, I was taken aback by the neoclassical architecture, not very common in Havana. The small Greco-Roman temple with Doric columns, dates back to 1827, and was erected in the place where it was believed that the Villa de San Cristobal de la Habana was founded in 1519. Though the workers were in the process of closing the premises for the day, they allowed me to take a quick peek to see the three valuable paintings by French painter Juan Bautista Vermey, which depict the first mass, the first council and the blessing of the Templete on its inauguration.

Inside the courtyard, you can spy the Column of Cajigal which honors the Spanish governor in charge of its construction, an image of the Virgin of Pilar, patroness of Spanish sailors (atop the column), and a marble bust of Governor Don Hernando de Soto, the first governor of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana. The ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in various religions, is one of many that has stood on the site. The latest has existed since 1960 and on November 16, residents come to the tree after midnight, circle it three times and throw a coin to its roots and make a wish.

Crossing the plaza, I stepped into the courtyard of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, the former offical residence of the governors of Havana. Dating back to the late 1700’s, it is home to the Museum of the City of Havana and houses exhibitions of art and historical artifacts. Though I would have loved to see the interior and its original colonial decor, the palace was closing for the day.

Though I was disappointed in not having had the opportunity to visit the palace, I stepped back into the street, which I discovered was paved with wooden blocks. This was the first time I had ever seen this and believe me, it was pretty cool!

Walking past the plaza, I made my way past the Mezquita Addallah and Parque Guayasamin toward the beautiful Old Town Square. Though there are many squares and plazas throughout the city, this one was my favorite. Laid out in 1559, this square offers buildings in many different architectural styles, as well as a fountain and unique sculpture. It was here that I finally encountered the Town Dogs.

I learned about the Town Dogs during my tour that morning but even though I had kept a keen eye out, I had not encountered any of them. The Town Dogs are designated as such by the mayor, protected and cared for by the city, each being vaccinated and sterilized. They wear a tag bearing their names and addresses and are free to roam on their own. Lounging on the steps of the Camera Obscura, I found Nina and P. Oblivious to the fact that I was excited to see them, neither were extremely cooperative about giving me a photogenic look…probably because they also had had a long day and were as tired as I was!

Spying a restaurant balcony with seating across the square, I made a beeline in that general direction. The Don Eduardo Alegre Bar and Restaurant was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the amazing view below, the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer and the perfect way to end my day!

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Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio

Address: Calle Compostela y Cuarteles Loma del Ángel, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0700-1900, daily
Admission: free

Catedral de San Cristobal

Address: Calle Empedrado 156 , La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday 1030-1200, Sunday Mass at 0900.
Admission: free. Tower access, $1 CUC ($1 US)

Castello de la Real Fuerza

Address: Plaza de Armas e/Calle O’Reilly y Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0830-1830, daily
Admission: $1 CUC ($1 US)

The Inspiration

As a child, one of my favorite memories was waiting for the Wonderful World of Disney movie on Sunday nights. Seeing Tinkerbell flying onto the screen in front of the Disney Castle and all of the fireworks exploding behind it, was breathtaking! The anticipation was only second to Christmas Eve when we eagerly awaited the arrival of Santa and the presents under the tree the next morning!

The mere sight of this castle, in even a picture, was enough to trigger fantasies of not only what the movie would be that week, but also what it would be like to live in or even visit this castle. Castles were what our fantasies were made of…princesses, knights in shining armor and space to run freely and have spectacular games of hide and seek.

Visitors to Disney World have often wondered how Walt Disney, the theme park’s creator, conceived and brought to fruition, this beautiful castle. Had he seen one like it somewhere?

Visitors to Segovia, go to see not only the city’s amazing aqueduct, but the beautiful castle (or alcazar) that is rumored to have been Walt’s inspiration for Disneyworld’s castle.

Now, I’m a bit of a sucker for a castle. I love not only the history and the architecture, but the princess that resides in every woman, imagines that one day she is going to wander the halls of a castle in a foreign land, doling out orders to her ladies in waiting and whiling away the hours sewing, painting, dancing and waiting for her prince. So, when I have an opportunity to see an amazing “real-life” castle, I take it!

Walking through the city of Segovia, past the aqueduct, the Plaza Mayor and the many beautiful churches and cathedrals, I headed to the outermost edge of the city. I wanted to see the castle of Segovia.

Originally built as a fortress in the 12th century, it was later used as a royal palace, state prison, Royal Artillery College and military academy and is well known throughout Spain for its distinctive architecture. It was one of the favored residences of the monarchs and a key fortress in the defense of the kingdom with its location on the granite cliffs at the convergence of the Clamores and Esrema rivers. There are many secret passages that connect to these rivers and it is the location where Isabella was crowned in 1474 as the Queen of Castile and Leon.

And yes, as I approached the castle, I could truly see the similarities to what I had once set my eyes upon on visits to Disneyworld and on Sunday night television! It is a truly fascinating spectacle and I was excited as I entered the ticket office at the forefront of the property. Ticket in hand, I crossed the drawbridge and began my exploration.

The castle is now used as a museum and a military archives building and when you enter, there are many different options of the areas to seek out. Follow the signs, as your visit is self guided, and take each space, one by one.

The highlights of the castle are its keep, its square with four towers and the hall raised by King John II of Castile which first served as a Weapons room. There are magnificent courtyards filled with statues and artillery and the Cellars in which the foundations of the castle can be found.

The Hall of the Palace contains suits of armor and leads to the Hall of the Galley with its magnificent stained glass windows representing Henry III of Castile and his family and Henry II of Castile with scenes of the death of Peter I and John II. A beautiful painting depicting the coronation of the queen Isabella I of Castile decorates one of the walls, but it is the coffered ceiling that takes center stage. The room was built by the queen of Catherine of Lancaster in 1412.

The Throne Room contains portraits of the kings, the coat of arms of the Catholic Monarchs, the throne seating and leads to the Hall of the Fireplace with its tapestry of Our Lady’s betrothal. The Royal Chamber’s main focus is the brocade covered bed, woven in gold, along with scenes of the family life of the Catholic Monarchs.

The Hall of the Kings truly took my breath away with its gold inlaid ceiling set with statues corresponding to the Kings of Asturias, Leon and Castile. There is a portrait of Philip II and two portraits of his wives, Elisabeth of Valois and Anna of Austria.

Sweeping through the Room of the Belt with its tile walls and its elaborate blue and gold ceiling, I was elated to peer through a screened partition to spy the Chapel, which was also accessible through the next hallway. This was the location where the kings and queens of the castle celebrated mass.

Finally, I ventured into the Weapons Room or Armory. The Alacazar had housed the armory of the House of Trastamara since old times and was the model of the collections of weapons that were finally collected into the Royal Armory of Madrid. Out of the back of the Weapons Room, there is a large terrace which offers views of the river below and the nearby Museo Real Casa de Moneda de Segovia and the Convento de San Juan de la Cruz.

Following the signs, I retraced my steps to the front of the castle to climb the 152 steps of the tower of John II of Castile. The large panoramic terrace gave me outstanding views of the entire city and close up views of the construction of the towers and the castle. As I stared out upon the city, my inner princess reared her head and I felt that Sunday night Disney excitement. That inner princess suddenly felt as though she was staring out on her kingdom…one she was about to set foot back upon and thoroughly discover what it was all about!

Very inspiring.

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Alcazar of Segovia

https://www.alcazardesegovia.com/
Address: Plaza Reina Victoria Eugenia, s/n, 40003 Segovia, Spain
Hours: October to March, 1000-1800 and April to September, 1000-1900. Closed December 25, January 1, January 6.
Admission: Adults, €5.00, Seniors €3.45. Citizens of the European Union can visit for free on Tuesdays from 1400-1600.
Getting There: Train, from Chamartin station in Madrid, http://www.renfre.com or http://www.thetrainline.com. By bus, from Moncloa metro station (Madrid), http://www.omio.com. After arriving in Segovia, bus #11 (2€) stops at the aqueduct and its about a 15-20 minute walk to the castle on the northwest side of the city.

Castle of the Holy Angel

On countless occasions, I have walked by the Castel Sant’Angelo…most times heading over the Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge to the Piazza Navona, the location of two of my favorite restaurants and my absolute fave gelato shop.

Having always admired it for its spherical silhouette and commanding position along the river, I am not sure why I had never ventured inside.

With the summer crowds beginning to thin, my mind filled with the opportunities this offered. Uncrowded streets, not many long lines. I wanted to experience something different, yet still get my daily dose of culture and that could mean any number of locations to visit.

Heading out with a friend, we had decided to have dinner at The Old Bear, near the Piazza Navona, after whatever adventure we decided upon.

Hmmm…just across the river was the Castle Sant’Angelo. I was in the mood for pumpkin lasagna and yes, a castle!

Intended for use as a mausoleum by Emperor Hadrian and his family, the construction of the Castle Sant’Angelo was begun in the year 135. Only requiring four years to complete, the building was then given over to the military, eventually being integrated into the Aurelian Walls, which enclosed the city of Rome including all seven of its hills, the Campus Martius and Trastevere.

As the plague ravaged the city, Pope Gregory I experienced a vision of Saint Michael the Archangel on the top of the castle announcing the end of the epidemic. As we stood on the Ponte Sant’Angelo, itself lined with amazing angelic statues, we gazed upon the fortress and at the statue of Saint Michael comparatively placed on the apex.

After paying our entrance fee, we made our way through the five floors which are reached by a spiral ramp that first reaches the chamber of ashes and eventually cells where many historical figures were imprisoned.

There are many medieval features of the castle from its time served as a fortress. The spiraling ramp provided rapid return to safety as well as a way for horseback riders to transit the space, a small wooden bridge that sits across the imperial tomb and a drawbridge. During the years of rebellion, four bastions were added to improve the fortification of the castle. These were the bastions of San Marco, San Luca, San Giovanni and San Matteo and as we made our way through these additions, we were able to witness the many wooden catapults, rusty cannons and marble cannon balls that were useful during the attacks the city continuously received. In addition, the Bastion of San Giovanni was home to a sixteenth century gunsmith workshop in the tower and in a reconstruction of the space, we were able to take note of the items used to construct the devices.

The castle was a maze of stairs, enclosed spaces and walkways most extremely well preserved due to its continual modifications over the centuries. Finding ourselves in the Courtyard of Honour which contains the papal apartments, used as a place of refuge by the pope when they were forced to flee the Vatican, we spied the stairs which led us to the second highest point on the castle…the one where we could stand beneath the great statue of Michael the Archangel. It is here, as well, that you can stand and admire the city, including the commanding St. Peter’s Basilica, the river below and all points past.

The loggias were my favorite parts of the castle. The smaller of the two was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century by Pope Julius II of Rovere (you can spot his name and coat of arms on the lintel), it was used as a place for the pope to bless the crowds of pilgrims on their way towards St. Peter’s Basilica. The Grand Loggia, completed in 1543, was completed by Pope Paul III (notable for commissioning the Last Judgement in the Sistine Chapel), and conceived as an entrance to his private apartments. It is decorated with episodes of Hadrian’s life and images of the monuments that he had built, including the mausoleum itself.

Stopping at the small cafe for a short time to escape the incessant drizzle that had started, we grabbed a beverage and enjoyed the warmth and smells of the pastries served here.

Spying a break in the weather, we decided to continue on, admiring the architectural details of the castle. Eventually, we came to something totally unexpected. Within the beautifully decorated rooms, named after Clement VII Medici, we happened upon an Italian fashion exhibit showcasing haute couture and jewelry by Italian designers, including Bulgari and Valentino. Beautifully dressed mannequins and display cases filled the apartments, including the Apollo Room, which if you were not overwhelmed by the fashion displayed here, you certainly were by the magnificent marble fireplace, frescoes, door friezes and tiled floors.

Sadly, the one thing that I was so anxious to visit within the castle was the Passetto di Borgo; the passageway built in 1277 that enabled a periously-threatened pope to make a safe getaway. In 1494, Pope Alexander VI transited this passage as Charles VIII invaded the city and Clement VII escaped using the passage during the Sack of Rome in 1527, when troops of the Holy Roman Emperor massacred almost the entire Swiss Guard on the steps of St. Peter’s Basilica. In 2000, in honor of the Pope’s Jubilee year, the Passetto di Borgo was renovated and temporarily re-opened. It can be visited during specific times with the accompaniment of a guide.

Heading out of the castle, we found the rain had ceased and the darkening sky was beginning to clear. Examining the castle from the ground perspective, we walked across the bridge stopping with the masses to get one last look.

Never before having realized that Michael the Archangel was the statue that sat upon the top of the castle, I glanced at the angel once again and had a feeling of peace.

Everyone always wants a guardian angel looking out over them!

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Castle Sant’Angelo

http://castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it/
Address: Lungotevere Castello, 50, 00193 Roma RM, Italy
Hours: Daily, 0900-1930. Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
Admission: €15.00, € 2.00 reduced. The entrance ticket also allows entry to the National Museum of the Palazzo di Venezia in the following eight days after purchase. From October to March, free entry on the first Sunday of each month. Guided tours included in the admission ticket. November to March, English, 1000 and 1500, Italian, 1130 and 1630. April to October, English 1000 and 1630, Italian, 1130 and 1800.
Getting There: Metro, Ottaviano. Buses numbers 23, 34, 49, 64, 87, 280, 492, 926 and 990.

The City of the Seven Castles

In ancient times, Naples was called the “city of the seven castles” as it was the only city in the world that boasted seven castles within its boundaries. These castles, Castel dell’Ovo, Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino), Castel Sant’Elmo, Castel Capuano, Castello del Carmine, Castello di Nisida and Forte di Vigliena, provided a powerful defense to the Gulf of Naples from attacks by sea.

Three of these castles are located along the coastline in the touristic areas of Naples, near the Piazza del Plebiscito, making it an easy task to visit them in a single day.

Since the Castel Nuovo was located near our hotel (and made for an awesome view from our hotel window!) so we opted to begin our exploration there.

Castel Nuovo’s construction was initiated in 1279 by Carlo I D’Angio during the beginning of Naples’ reign as capital of the region. The modern fortress today appears much as it did upon its inception and was originally called Maschio Angioino. The castel acted as the royal residence and became a center of culture giving hospitality to artists, doctors, scholars and authors. When Alfonso I, of the Aragonese, succeeded the Anjevins, he continued to use the castle as a royal residence but ordered renovations, including the Triumphal Arch, celebrating his victorious entry into the city of Naples.

Upon entering, it was quite impressive to pass through this Triumphal Arch and admire the detailed craftsmanship of both it and the Bronze Gates, ordered by Ferdinand I of Aragon. Entering into the vast courtyard, we admired the high interior walls and proceeded to follow the self-guided tour.

We made our way through the Hall of the Barons, originally the throne room and location where the barons conspired against Ferrante I d’Aragona in 1487, the Palatine Chapel, dedicated to the Assunzione della Vergine and then the Chapel of the “Anime Purganti”, or Purgatory Chapel, which dates back to the 16th century. This small chapel is richly decorated but protected by a glass wall, which limited our proximity to the priceless artwork.

Climbing the stone stairs, we found ourselves at the scenic balcony giving us a beautiful view of the marina and the nearby buildings. The upper floors house exhibitions and cultural events, part of the Municipal Museum of Naples, which also has displays on several floors, including sculptures, paintings and objects from the medieval period to the 19th century. The first floor’s exhibits included works from photographers Fabio Donato and Luciano Ferrara. Most intriguing, however, was the glass floor displaying human remains that were excavated and preserved.

Though we were not able to visit the basement (only possible with a guide), a story I overheard from a tour guide detailed a “crocodile pit”. It was found that occasionally prisoners would disappear and were believed to have been snatched by a crocodile who would grab their leg and drag them out to sea. Speculation was that Queen Giovanna brought the creature to Naples from Egypt on the occasion of her wedding with Giacomo of Bourbon.

Walking along the coastline, passing the Fontana del Gigante (Fountain of the Giants), we made our way to the second fortress, Castel della’Ovo which stands on the islet of Megaride, lending to its untouchable, yet fairy-tale perception. No wonder many brides and grooms decide to take their wedding photos here!

The Castel’s name, truly unique, is one of Neapolitan legends. The castle was named for the egg that Latin poet Virgil apparently hid in a cage in the dungeons of the castle. This egg was kept hidden because the “fortune of the Sea Castle depended on it”.

As we walked along the causeway towards the castle, we noted the marina and the restaurants around the eastern wall, part of the small fishing village, Borgo Marinaro, established in the 19th century.

The castle sits on the site of a previous structure, built by the Normans in the 12th century. After Charles I of Anjou built the new castle and moved his court there, it became the seat of the Royal Chamber and of the State Treasury. Castel dell’Ovo also served as a prison, housing Empress Constance of the Holy Roman Empire (1191, later Queen of Sicily), King Conradin before his trial and execution in 1268 and Queen Joanna I of Naples before here assassination in 1381.

Inside the castle, there are several buildings used for exhibitions and other special events. Aside from a few statues and cannons, the castle’s main features are those that are architectural, however, there are some beautiful views of the city and coast to be had from the upper level.

Moving on, we headed through the Piazza del Plebiscito to the Augusteo subway station. Knowing it would be a difficult task to make it up the immense hill to Castel Sant’Elmo, we boarded the subway/funicular towards Piazza Fuga and then walked the remaining distance.

Dating back to 1275, this castle, which sits high above the city, was originally a church dedicated to St. Erasmus and was transformed into a royal residence. An earthquake, in 1456, caused the collapse of the towers and some of the walls. After interventions by the Aragonese, the castle was transformed into a defensive fortress. Almost a century later, construction commenced which committed the castle to its current configuration, a star-shaped fortress.

The castle, which sits high on a hill above the city, was used as a troop’s garrison, a military prison until the 1950’s and it now houses the Museo del Novecento, dedicated to 20th century Neapolitan art.

This castle was extremely interesting as it fits the image of what you would expect a castle to be, with its drawbridge and dark, interior passages. It is when you reach the upper level, while walking along the ramparts that you discover what makes it so special…the outstanding views of the city and the bay islands.

After admiring the impressive clock tower, we ventured into the Museum for a quick look where we discovered some impressive and sometimes strange pieces. Exiting the rear doors of the museum, the church was directly across the walkway and we stepped in to have a quick look at its simple interior.

Looking out once again at the city from our bird’s eye view, it was now easy to comprehend what a vast city Naples is. Spread out before us, we realized that there was so much we had not had time to see and the afternoon was drawing to a close. Spying a church’s facade next door, we decided that if we were going to see more, it had better close by.

Heading down through the castle, we made our way to the exterior, stopping on the drawbridge, to once again, admire the coat of arms of Charles V with the double-headed eagle at the entrance portal. The clear, blue sky made for a beautiful view as we walked away, through the gates and we marveled at how much history was to be found in Naples.

Only having had the time to discover three of Naples seven castles, we realized that we would have to make time on another trip to see the other four.

Three out of seven wasn’t too bad…right?

Especially because these three were pretty spectacular!

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Castel Nuovo

http://www.comune.napoli.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/EN/IDPagina/1372
Address: Via Vittorio Emanuele III
Hours: 0830-1900, Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday.
Admission: 06.00€

Castel dell’Ovo

https://www.castel-dell-ovo.com/
Address: Via Eldorado, 3, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
Hours: 0900-1830, Monday through Saturday. 0900-1400, Sunday
Admission: free

Castel Sant’Elmo

http://www.polomusealecampania.beniculturali.it/index.php/il-castello
Address: Via Tito Angelini, 22 – 80129 Naples
Hours: 0830-1930, daily
Admission: Full price, 5.00€, Reduced, 2.50€, Tuesday, 2.50€

Now, Naples!

How many vacations can a person go on in one year?

As many as you can!

First it was Greece and now it was time for Naples!

I had just returned from an amazing trip to Greece but now it was time to go to work and Rome…you know, make some money to pay for all that delicious moussaka that I had consumed over the course of ten days and top off those pounds with multiple scoops of gelato.

My middle son had not been able to join us on our Greek sojourn due to educational obligations over the summer and was anxious to travel somewhere with me for a few days. I decided that I would have him meet me in New York after my return from Rome and we would decide on a location for a few days. Dakar was our first choice but the flight filled up, leaving us to make another decision. Malaga was a possiblitity, but shortly after I landed from Rome, he informed me that he was “feeling like Italy”.

Oh, okay…if we must!

So, we boarded the flight and I went right back to where I had just returned.

It wasn’t a hard decision! However, since I have been to Rome many times, it was time to see something different…Naples and the Amalfi Coast.

Upon landing, we headed to Rome’s Termini Station and boarded a westbound train to Naples, quickly making a hotel reservation along the way.

Now, unless I’m confusing it with some other Italian city, it did not seem like Naples had ever gotten rave reviews from other travelers that I had spoken to. What I have learned over the years, however, is to try things out for yourself. What is good for the goose, is not always good for the gander!

Arriving on a Sunday, we made our way to our hotel and then set out to explore the area around the water’s edge. There were two impressive castles nearby…Castel Nuovo and Castel del Ovo, but sadly, we found them to be closed.

Enjoying the sunny, hot afternoon, we walked along the water’s edge, watching longingly as the locals enjoyed the sunshine and refreshing waters from the rocks and from their boats.

Admiring the infamous Mount Vesuvius from afar, we passed parks, statues, monuments and the Galleria Umberto, finally arriving in Piazza del Plebiscito (Square of the People), an immense space that houses the royal palace on one side and on the other by the neoclassical facade of the church of San Francesco di Paola.

Walking past the equestrian statues that stand in front of the church, (one depicting Ferdinand I of Bourbon and the other, Charles III of Bourbon), we made our way towards the Palazzo Reale.

Stopping the admire the eight statues of the most famous Kings of Naples, in the niches on the facade, we made our way to the side entrance hoping the find it open. As luck would have it, it was and we eagerly ducked inside, anxious to escape the oppressive August heat.

Built in 1600, the extensive palace was originally intended as the residence of King Philip III of Spain for his visits to Naples, however, it became the official residence of Viceroy Fernando Ruiz de Castro, earl of Lemos and his wife after 1734. Designed by Domenico Fontana, a prominent Italian architect, the building suffered damage during a fire in 1837 but eventually was restored by Gaetano Genovese.

After walking through the vaulted porticoes, we accessed the main entry with its immense staircase with twin ramps and coffered dome overhead.

Meandering through the richly appointed spaces, we encountered grand halls and chambers, many retaining their original works of art, tapestries, paintings, period furniture and fine porcelain. The highlights of the palace were the Throne Room, the Court Theater, the Royal Apartments and the Oratory (the queen’s personal chapel)…all lending to our understanding of the Italian royal life.

As the afternoon came to a close, despite our excitement of discovering this magnificent city, the effects of a long night of travel were starting to grab hold our reserves. There was so much to see and experience, but if we were not going to slumber through dinnertime, we decided we needed a bit of rest. Tomorrow would be a big day for checking things off of my personal bucket list, but on this night, after our nap, it would be important to seek out Naples’ famous margarita pizza!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Palazzo Reale

https://www.coopculture.it/en/heritage.cfm?id=76
Address: Piazza del Plebiscito, 1, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
Hours: 0900-2000, Closed Wednesday
Admission: Full €6.00, Reduced €2.00 (citizens of European Union ages 18-25), Online tickets, reservation fee: € 2.00. Free, European and non-European citizens under 18 years. Free first Sunday each month from October through March and on the following dates, March 14, April 1, May 6, June 3, July 11, August 5, September 2, September 19.
Getting There: Bus ANM R1 Via San Carlo stop, Bus ANM R3 Via San Carlo stop, Bus ANM C4 Piazza Treiste e Trento stop

The Grand Finale

Naxos was such an unexpected pleasure.

When we had made the decision to visit a couple of the Greek islands, Naxos was definitely not on my radar. If it had not been for the suggestion of a friend, I am not even sure that we would have chosen it over the many others that dot the Aegean Sea.

That being said, we had done and seen most of what we had set out to and enjoyed every bit of it, however, I still felt as though there was more to be discovered.

After our trip to the islet of Palatia to see Apollo’s Temple, my husband and son decided to head to the hotel for a nap before our ferry’s departure that afternoon. Camera in hand, I headed back into the alleys and pathways to see what more I could find in Naxos’ Old Town.

Now when I think back to our time in Naxos, I fondly remember the beautiful mountains and beaches, but what stands out in my mind is the intricacies of the Old Town. I absolutely adored just wandering the narrow passageways and picturesque harbor, discovering a photo around every corner.

As I headed past the port to make my way back up the hill, I noticed a modest, white-washed church standing alone on a small island. Panagia Myrtidiotissa is a small chapel built by the fishermen of Tsirigo and Kythira who survived a storm outside of Naxos and is only accessible by boat. As I sat on a bench, wishing I could make my way there, I watched a fisherman work on his vessel, all the while under the protecting eye of this historic church. If you happen to be in Naxos on September 24, make sure to not miss the celebratory feast honoring the church and the mariners of the island.

Knowing that we had missed the Catholic Church’s opening times the day before, I headed up the hill, in that direction, and discovered that I was still a bit early.

Around the corner, however, I noticed a sign directing me to the Casazza Chapel or the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos). Only having to wait a few minutes for its opening, I entered a beautifully decorated structure. Since I wasn’t sure of the history of the chapel, it was fortunate that the woman who unlocked the doors for us was an American and we could speak freely. She explained that the chapel was built in the 13th or 14th century by Duke Markos Sanoudos and continued to operate as the chapel of all Dukes of Naxos. Completed in 1680, the chapel was dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin and later operated as the church of the Jesuits upon their arrival.

Leaving the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos, I passed near a doorway where an older gentleman was sitting. He beckoned to me and invited me in. Not sure what I was being invited to see (and a little nervous), I entered and found a small Orthodox chapel. It was colorful and well appointed even though occupying such a tiny space. Though I never learned what this chapel was, as he did not speak English, I could tell that he was proud of it and as I watched, he continued to invited all passersby to step in and admire the chapel.

Finally, making my way back to the cathedral in the central square, I found it open and entered eagerly. Though the church is relatively small, it is the most important temple of the castle in Naxos.

Exhibiting Byzantine and Western influences, the cathedral was built in the 13th century. There are some small chapels within the five-aisled, three domed structure and the floor is constructed of marble embossed with the coat of arms of the Duke of Naxos. The central aisle boasts an wood altar crafted by Tagiadoroi from Chios from 1774 and a painting of the Panagia Eleousa (Our Lady the Merciful) dating from the 11th or 12th century.

As you examine the outside of the cathedral, make sure to take note of the four coats of arms, including those of Markos Sanoudos, and the striking bell tower constructed in 1963 by John Filippoti.

Other notable religious buildings in the area include the building of the Catholic Archdiocese (13th century) which houses a collection of architectural parts, relics, folklore material, engravings, icons and ecclesiastical utensils, the old Jesuit Commercial School and the old Ursaline Academy for Girls.

Continuing my adventure through the maze of walkways and paths of the Old Town, I meandered slowly examining stairways, door knockers, signs, souvenirs, artwork, cafes, archways and even found an art gallery showcasing the work of my old friend, Yanni Souvatzoglou, an Athens sculpture artist.

As time dissolved quickly, I knew that I would have to return to the hotel so that we could catch our ferry back to Athens, however, there was just enough time to see one last thing…the Orthodox Cathedral.

The Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos was constructed in 1787 on the site of a smaller church and is dedicated to Zoodochos Pigi, the life-giving Virgin Mary. The cathedral was constructed using materials from other buildings including some ancient temples and it is said that the solid granite pillars were brought from the ruins of Delos.

As I entered the cathedral, I breathed in deeply, taking in the extravagance before me. The excitement of capturing it all was short-lived as I was told that photography was not allowed.

A few, well-placed shots were definitely going to be taken and I made my way around the church admiring the intricate wall paintings and the beautiful icons dating back to Turkish times as well as the Gospel Book, which according to custom, was a present from Catherine the Great of Russia.

Finally, it was time for our time in Naxos to come to an end. As we walked through the town toward the ferry terminal, I took one last look around at the city, the boats in the harbor and the fresh catch of the day drying in the sun.

We would definitely miss this Greek Island that we had grown to love during our short stay. Coming here was definitely unexpected but after seeking out many of the things that make it so special, we were extremely happy that we had taken the chance.

Unexpected and now not unexplored, by us anyway!

The grand finale just whetted our appetite for more…we will be back!

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Panagia Myrtidiotissa

Address: Naxos Port, Naxos Town 843 00, Greece
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos or Casazza Chapel )

http://www.kantam.gr/index.php/el/
Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece, behind the Catholic Church
Hours; 1000-unknown
Admission: free

Catholic Cathedral of Naxos

http://www.kantam.gr/index.php/el/
Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
Hours: 1000-unknown
Admission: free

Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos

http://Naxos 843 00, Greece
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Yanni Souvatzoglou

https://www.yannisouvatzoglou.gr/
Address: Voulis 44 A Street, Athens 10557, Greece
Hours: 1000-2100, daily
Admission: free

The Castle On A Cold Day

An impressive structure in the center of Milan, the Sforza Castle, built in the 15th century, is a must see while visiting the Italian city.

I have walked through the grounds many times but never gave a thought to the museum housed inside.

During the winter, it’s sometimes a struggle to find things to do when the weather is not optimum, so on a cold day, I finally decided to head over to check out everything the castle had to offer.

The castle, built by Francesco Sforza, the Duke of Milan on the remnants of a 14th century fortification, was built as a defensive castle. Throughout its history, it was destroyed, rebuilt and modified and was once one of the largest citadels in Europe. Today, the castle houses the Museums of the Castello and offers glimpses of masterpieces by Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and Bramante.

Allowing myself just two and a half hours to see what the castle had in store for me, I exited the Cairoli metro station and enjoyed the architectural monument laid out before me. Stopping for a moment to enjoy the modest fountain, which frames the castle’s facade, I then made my way through the Torre del Filarete and into the castle’s courtyard. Making my way around the castle walls, I inspected each of the circular keep-towers and some of the statues and architectural ruins scattered throughout.

Often the site of artisan and farmer’s markets and entertainment, this day was no exception with artist Thiago Gusi giving us music to sight see by.

Finally, entering the museum, I paid my admission and began my exploration. I have to say, the amount of art and sculpture displayed here was mind-blowing and I quickly realized that I really should have allowed more time.

I won’t try to describe each and every piece in the museum, but as I moved through each of the rooms, there was a plethora of outstanding sculptural works, tapestries, frescoed ceilings, tiled floors, suits of armor, stained glass and painted canvases. Stunned by the quality and quantity, I glanced at my watch and moved as expeditiously as I could.

Thinking that my tour was almost complete, I discovered that, yes, there was more!

Moving through the museum, I found a whole other section highlighting furniture and then another, with religious icons. Each and every piece was more spectacular than the last.

As I glanced through the window at the waning daylight, I realized that my two and a half hours had passed much too quickly.

Having walked through and near the castle so many times, why had I never ventured into the castle’s museums before?

With such an affordable admission price, it won’t be the last!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Sforza Castle

https://www.milanocastello.it/
Address: Piazza Castello, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Hours: Castle, 0700-1930. Castle Museum, 0900-1730. Closed on Mondays, December 25, January 1 and May 1.
Admission: May 16, 2019-January 12, 2020, full ticket 10€ , reduced 8€ , reduced first Sunday of the month 5€ . Ticket includes the entrance to all the Castle Museums and Leonardo exhibitions. Free entry: every first and third Tuesday of the month from 1400. Guided tour every Saturday at 1500, 8€
Getting There: Metro, Cairoli (red line) , Cadorna (red and green line) and Lanza (green line) stations.