©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
Old Havana is filled with history, architecture, landmarks, entertainment, restaurants and museums. One would be hard pressed to not find something that interests them during their visit.
There are many other parts of the city, however, that offer up some amazing items of interest, so making a priority to step outside of the box is essential.
When I had gone on my tour of the city, we had visited the areas of Vedado, Centro Habana and Habana Viejo and crossed through the tunnel to Habana del Este. There was a brief stopover at the Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and a drive by of Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana, the two fortresses that lay to the east of the entrance canal to the Bay of Havana. Since I didn’t have the time to properly explore each of these or the Military Exhibition, I decided that I needed to return on my last afternoon in the city.
But how would I get there?
Toying with the idea of taking the ferry to the Christ Statue, I decided that it would be a long walk to each of the fortresses and back. Remembering that I had seen many taxi cabs parked by the Plaza 13 de Marzo, I headed in that direction, thinking that cab fare would not be much just to cross through the tunnel from that point. Quickly locating a driver, I discovered that cab fare to the east side was a flat rate of only $10 CUC. A short drive ensued and I was dropped at El Morro.
After I paid the entrance fee, I made my way through a long, semi-arched tunnel. Exiting in the bright sunshine, I found myself on the colossal ramparts of the castle, complete with sweeping views of the the city across the waterway and the Battery of Twelve Apostles below. These twelve cannons, along with with the cannons on the ramparts, helped assist in the defense of the Havana Harbor and the city.
This iconic landmark was built between 1589 and 1630 and together with the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, on the opposite side of the bay, was a major part of the city’s defense fortification system. To safeguard the harbor from pirates and other invaders, a chain was strung between the two fortresses.
The fortress grounds are sprawling and contain several museums; Museo del Morro, Museo de la Navegación and Museo de Piratas. These museums display artifacts and items related to the castle’s history, the city’s maritime history and pirate folklore. The most stunning part of the complex, however, is the lighthouse which was built in 1846. The lighthouse was constructed to take the place of the watchtower that was destroyed by the British during their siege in 1762.
Hoping to enjoy the views of the fort and surrounding areas from a higher vantage point, I approached the lighthouse. Finding the door open, I ventured in and made my way up the curved staircase. As I neared the top, however, I heard a voice which appeared to be talking to another on a two-way radio. Thinking that maybe I was entering somewhere where I should not be, I quickly made my way back down and out of the structure. Having to be content to enjoy the lighthouse from the castle level, I also made my way through the exhibit which detailed lighthouses throughout Cuba. It is also interesting to note that El Morro once housed a school for lighthouse keepers.
Although it was still sweltering during the afternoon, I made my way around the fort, admiring the rusted cannons, central barracks, the old latrines and the small memorial, commemorating the 1762 siege, located between the two strong powder rooms in the northeast bastion. There was also a stairway which contained many clay vats leading to a hidden exit at the Star platform. These earthenware jars are called tinajones and were place there for the storage of the oil used in the lighthouse. Now empty, it was worth the descent for the lovely views of the water, the city and the Battery of the Twelve Apostles.
After a quick stop in the cafe for some much needed water, a walk through the vendor’s stalls and a walk around the grounds, I decided to make my way to the east and the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana. Known as one of the most complex and expensive defense systems in the Americas, it is also one of the largest.
Constructed in the 18th century with some of most advanced military defensive features, it was named after King Carlos III of Spain, who demanded a spyglass to see it from Madrid. He claimed that such a fortress, which cost so much, surely could be seen across the ocean!
Over the years, the fortress has been used as a prison, a storage facility and, more famously, as the command headquarters of Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara. After renovations were completed the early 1990s, different museums were opened within the complex including the Museo de Armas (Museum of Arms), Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara) and a museum of the history of the fortress.
Most famously, La Cabana is known for attracting thousands of locals and visitors each night to witness a tradition that began in the eighteenth century; the firing of the 9 o’clock cannon. Having heard the shot from my location in Old Havana each night, I had hoped to witness the spectacle at the fortress during my visit.
As I arrived in the late afternoon, after a short walk from El Morro, I was able to enter via the great drawbridge, which in turn, led to another bridge which crossed the now-dry moat. The innards of the fort was laid out much like a small city and I admired the repetitive framework. Making my way to the ramparts to admire the restored cannons and the excellent views of both the city and of El Morro, I marveled at the sheer size of this place.
Discovering the Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara), I explored the items of interest that were once in his possession, including the desk from which he made revolutionary decisions. Next door, I was welcomed by an elderly gentleman who was manning the International Book Fair, held here annually…a great place to visit, if you read in Spanish.
Out in the courtyard, I found the inimitable sundial which told me that it was around five o’clock, the time which everything begins to shut down around the city. Since no one was asking me to leave, I continued my explorations, but found the chapel and the Museum of Arms closed. Noting that vendors were setting up, I realized that they must do so each evening in anticipation of the crowds that arrive for the cannon firing. Although I walked around a bit more, I realized that the restaurants I had encountered were not open. I was tired, hungry, ready for a shower and nine o’clock was a few hours away. Besides, I wasn’t even sure how I was going to get home!
Stopping for a few more photo opportunities on my way out, I hesitated at the road. Should I turn right and head toward the Christ Statue and try to catch the ferry back to Havana or should I turn left and head back to El Morro where I might be lucky enough to find an empty cab? It was a tough decision because I really didn’t know how far I was from the ferry. Turning toward El Morro, I prayed for a passing cab. Some passed with patrons and an empty one did drive by, but I did not see it until it was too late to flag it down! Continuing down the road, I finally made it back to El Morro and as luck would have it, I saw an old Russian cab.
Now, I had ridden in many classic cars during my visit, but this type of car was one that I had maybe only seen during my trips to Moscow years ago; the Russian Lada. It wasn’t a very smooth ride back through the tunnel, but it certainly was unique! The little old gentleman driving put on “Mack the Knife” as he swerved, bumped and sped me back to Old Havana. It was seriously one of the funniest, yet terrifying moments I have ever had in a cab…and I take cabs in New York regularly! (Check out the video on Facebook, Snapping the Globe).
Finally, setting my feet on terra firma and still a bit shaky, I headed back to my Airbnb for my last night.
My last night to enjoy delicious Cuban food…
My last night to say admire the amazing architecture…
My last night to hear the cannon firing…
My last night to lay in bed and listen to the city outside my door…
My last night to enjoy my Airbnb host’s hospitality…
I realized that for all my uncertainty about taking this trip, I had found a place that rated in the top of my all-time favorite places! A place that I will certainly return in the future. After all, there were still many things to see within the city and so much outside of it!
Yes, Cuba…I am coming back!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro
- Address: Havana, Cuba
- Hours: 1000-1900, daily
- Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)
Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana
- Address:
- Hours: 1000-2200, daily
- Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)