Tag: Havana

Dreaming of Havana

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Selecting a place to stay in any city can be stressful.

You want to be in a venue that is convenient and clean, yet for a solo female, safe.

The United States’ relationship with Cuba also presents a problem. Americans are not allowed to subsidize any kind of government property or business and many of the hotels are government owned. Two of the visa categories that allowed for American travel to Cuba were “People to People” and “Support the People”. These allowed for Americans to stay in small privately owned Airbnb properties, more commonly known as casa particulars, which allowed interaction with the local population and the ability to support the hardworking residents rather than the government.

One of the reasons that I had never attempted to travel to Cuba was because I was afraid to book a place early on. Since I travel on a stand-by basis, it is quite difficult to know that you will positively receive a seat on the flight until just before departure, unless half of the plane is full…and that never seems to happen! By this time, most cancellation deadlines for the properties have already passed.

Many times, I have booked my hotel from the airplane while it was still at the gate, while in-flight or even after I had landed. Since my American-based cellphone would not work upon my arrival, none of these options were viable since I really needed a response from the property owner confirming my reservation and the address of the accommodation, unlike staying in a hotel.

As I stressed the night before about this trip, I reached out to two of the properties, on the Airbnb website, that looked nice and appeared to be in the area that I wanted. Thankfully, the owner of Havana Dream, was awake in the middle of the night, talking to his family in Spain (as I later learned). When I explained my situation, he readily gave me the address and told me to book later that morning when I had a better handle on the situation. It was truly that bit of understanding that led me to have an outstanding experience.

My fears were put to rest when the gentleman who sat next to me on the plane, a tour guide, told me that he regularly keeps clients at that location. I knew that it wasn’t one of the cheaper places to stay, but I took his words to heart. “You truly get what you pay for in Havana. You will not regret staying at this place.”

Another added touch, that helped me to feel comfortable, was the fact that the owner arranged for a classic car and driver to meet me at the airport. With my limited Spanish, it was a relief to know that someone would be waiting for me and I would not have to communicate the directions. Though the service was at my expense, it was one that helped my navigation from the airport to the downtown area immensely.

Still, one never knows what you are going to get until you actually arrive.

As we pulled up to the door on Obrapia Street, I was a little skeptical. I followed the driver up a narrow set of of concrete stairs, passing an entrance to other units beyond an iron gate. Another gate was opened for us to ascend yet another flight of concrete stairs. And there I was…

Havana Dream.

The manager, Judy, met me in the sitting area and as I looked around, it definitely looked like the pictures that had motivated me to book. The sitting, kitchen and dining areas were the nucleus of the home and was quite beautiful and modern. There were stunning antiques and showcases filled with expensive-looking place settings, flatware and glassware and the kitchen cabinets and appliances were all flawless, stainless steel. Amazing art pieces, crystal chandeliers and fresh flowers completed the look!

The door to my room was one of two, immediately off of this area. As Judy led me in, I can say that I knew, then and there, that I had indeed made the right choice. My bed was pristinely made, covered in a white bedspread with embroidered pillows with the the name of this casa particular. There were small night tables and lamps on either side of the bed, with USB ports for my charging needs, and a luggage rack, a place to hang my clothes and soft, monogrammed robes. Across from the bed, there was an antique bureau which had been converted into a washbasin, an antique sewing machine, which was flipped under so that the top could be used as a table and a television mounted on the wall. Since it is advised to bring a great deal of cash for spending purposes (American ATM and credit cards do not work), the safe mounted on the wall was a welcome sight. Near the luggage rack, there was a bathroom, appointed with modern fixtures and soft, white, monogrammed towels hanging on the rack.

Judy opened up the balcony doors to show me the magnificent view of the Capitol building down the street, and the plush chairs that I would later enjoy during the cooler evenings. She then took me back inside to explain options available to me during my stay. The refrigerator was stocked with water, Hollandia beer and Tukola soda. It would be restocked each day and my tab would be noted for the items I had used. As we walked back into the kitchen, I was shown the menu board with food items available, such as sandwiches and fruit shakes. As I had decided to have breakfast the next morning, Judy took note of the time that I expected to eat and my particular liking for my eggs.

Money could be exchanged in the with Judy or the owner and internet cards could also be purchased. Not having cellular service was something that had caused me great anxiety. During my ride to the casa particular, I discovered that my cellphone’s GPS was working, so I was able to navigate throughout the city without pulling out maps and advertising to everyone that I was a tourist. The internet cards were for one hour increments, however, and noting my Apple product, Judy urged me to use the minutes consecutively. They had discovered that with Iphones, sometimes the remaining minutes disappear after a one-hour card was initiated. Later, I learned that occasionally, the owner would turn on WIFI and if I was lucky enough to be there, I could tap into his network, keeping me from continually having to purchase more cards. Having the ability to touch base with my family and let them know that I was okay was comforting.

Noting all of the modern products in the home, the lack of stores offering home furnishings and necessities required to run an establishment such as this, I asked the owner one day about how he was able to furnish the place so eloquently. Though originally born in Cuba, he spent most of his life in Spain and from there, devised the plan to open a casa particular in Havana. Much thought and planning was given to the project and countless hours were spent acquiring what was needed to remodel and ready the property. It was then all packed into a shipping container and transported across the ocean. Here, it was all combined with a loving touch so that visitors would be welcomed for a comfortable stay in the city.

He spoke so passionately about the project and his plans to continually improve the premises. Taking me outside, he led me past the other two bedrooms, in the back of the unit, to a set of intimidating stairs, that probably might not meet the building code in the United States. Up we went, to the roof, where I found the space that he planned to establish a dining/relaxing area. He already had a barbeque pit, a few chairs and work had begun on the tile flooring. The view, however, was what stole the show! I could already envision myself sitting there on a future stay, relaxing and enjoying a beer, while enjoying the sunset and scenery!

Back downstairs, I enjoyed my morning breakfasts in the beautiful dining room…and yes, we ate off of the good service pieces! The women who prepared my toast, eggs and elaborate plates of delicious fruit also prepared amazing queso sandwiches! I loved these so much that on my third day, when I stopped by my room to freshen up and drop off my packages, I had them make me one for lunch!

With so many things to see in the city, location was also something that had been extremely important. Only one block from the walking street, Obispo, a popular place to people watch, this casa particular was also in close proximity to countless museums, churches, dining, shopping, the discernable Capitol building and the famous El Floridita Bar! Location perfection!

Everything about this stay was seamless and I felt truly welcomed and safe. As my driver arrived to pick me up for my return to the airport and the United States, I took some time to reflect on the “trip that almost wasn’t”. Would I have changed anything at all about what I did here or more importantly, where I stayed?

The only thing I would have changed would have been to stay longer!

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Havana Dream

The Other Side of Havana

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Old Havana is filled with history, architecture, landmarks, entertainment, restaurants and museums. One would be hard pressed to not find something that interests them during their visit.

There are many other parts of the city, however, that offer up some amazing items of interest, so making a priority to step outside of the box is essential.

When I had gone on my tour of the city, we had visited the areas of Vedado, Centro Habana and Habana Viejo and crossed through the tunnel to Habana del Este. There was a brief stopover at the Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and a drive by of Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana, the two fortresses that lay to the east of the entrance canal to the Bay of Havana. Since I didn’t have the time to properly explore each of these or the Military Exhibition, I decided that I needed to return on my last afternoon in the city.

But how would I get there?

Toying with the idea of taking the ferry to the Christ Statue, I decided that it would be a long walk to each of the fortresses and back. Remembering that I had seen many taxi cabs parked by the Plaza 13 de Marzo, I headed in that direction, thinking that cab fare would not be much just to cross through the tunnel from that point. Quickly locating a driver, I discovered that cab fare to the east side was a flat rate of only $10 CUC. A short drive ensued and I was dropped at El Morro.

After I paid the entrance fee, I made my way through a long, semi-arched tunnel. Exiting in the bright sunshine, I found myself on the colossal ramparts of the castle, complete with sweeping views of the the city across the waterway and the Battery of Twelve Apostles below. These twelve cannons, along with with the cannons on the ramparts, helped assist in the defense of the Havana Harbor and the city.

Battery of the Twelve Apostles

This iconic landmark was built between 1589 and 1630 and together with the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, on the opposite side of the bay, was a major part of the city’s defense fortification system. To safeguard the harbor from pirates and other invaders, a chain was strung between the two fortresses.

The fortress grounds are sprawling and contain several museums; Museo del Morro, Museo de la Navegación and Museo de Piratas. These museums display artifacts and items related to the castle’s history, the city’s maritime history and pirate folklore. The most stunning part of the complex, however, is the lighthouse which was built in 1846. The lighthouse was constructed to take the place of the watchtower that was destroyed by the British during their siege in 1762.

Hoping to enjoy the views of the fort and surrounding areas from a higher vantage point, I approached the lighthouse. Finding the door open, I ventured in and made my way up the curved staircase. As I neared the top, however, I heard a voice which appeared to be talking to another on a two-way radio. Thinking that maybe I was entering somewhere where I should not be, I quickly made my way back down and out of the structure. Having to be content to enjoy the lighthouse from the castle level, I also made my way through the exhibit which detailed lighthouses throughout Cuba. It is also interesting to note that El Morro once housed a school for lighthouse keepers.

Although it was still sweltering during the afternoon, I made my way around the fort, admiring the rusted cannons, central barracks, the old latrines and the small memorial, commemorating the 1762 siege, located between the two strong powder rooms in the northeast bastion. There was also a stairway which contained many clay vats leading to a hidden exit at the Star platform. These earthenware jars are called tinajones and were place there for the storage of the oil used in the lighthouse. Now empty, it was worth the descent for the lovely views of the water, the city and the Battery of the Twelve Apostles.

After a quick stop in the cafe for some much needed water, a walk through the vendor’s stalls and a walk around the grounds, I decided to make my way to the east and the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana. Known as one of the most complex and expensive defense systems in the Americas, it is also one of the largest.

Constructed in the 18th century with some of most advanced military defensive features, it was named after King Carlos III of Spain, who demanded a spyglass to see it from Madrid. He claimed that such a fortress, which cost so much, surely could be seen across the ocean!

Over the years, the fortress has been used as a prison, a storage facility and, more famously, as the command headquarters of Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara. After renovations were completed the early 1990s, different museums were opened within the complex including the Museo de Armas (Museum of Arms), Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara) and a museum of the history of the fortress.

Most famously, La Cabana is known for attracting thousands of locals and visitors each night to witness a tradition that began in the eighteenth century; the firing of the 9 o’clock cannon. Having heard the shot from my location in Old Havana each night, I had hoped to witness the spectacle at the fortress during my visit.

As I arrived in the late afternoon, after a short walk from El Morro, I was able to enter via the great drawbridge, which in turn, led to another bridge which crossed the now-dry moat. The innards of the fort was laid out much like a small city and I admired the repetitive framework. Making my way to the ramparts to admire the restored cannons and the excellent views of both the city and of El Morro, I marveled at the sheer size of this place.

Discovering the Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara), I explored the items of interest that were once in his possession, including the desk from which he made revolutionary decisions. Next door, I was welcomed by an elderly gentleman who was manning the International Book Fair, held here annually…a great place to visit, if you read in Spanish.

Out in the courtyard, I found the inimitable sundial which told me that it was around five o’clock, the time which everything begins to shut down around the city. Since no one was asking me to leave, I continued my explorations, but found the chapel and the Museum of Arms closed. Noting that vendors were setting up, I realized that they must do so each evening in anticipation of the crowds that arrive for the cannon firing. Although I walked around a bit more, I realized that the restaurants I had encountered were not open. I was tired, hungry, ready for a shower and nine o’clock was a few hours away. Besides, I wasn’t even sure how I was going to get home!

Stopping for a few more photo opportunities on my way out, I hesitated at the road. Should I turn right and head toward the Christ Statue and try to catch the ferry back to Havana or should I turn left and head back to El Morro where I might be lucky enough to find an empty cab? It was a tough decision because I really didn’t know how far I was from the ferry. Turning toward El Morro, I prayed for a passing cab. Some passed with patrons and an empty one did drive by, but I did not see it until it was too late to flag it down! Continuing down the road, I finally made it back to El Morro and as luck would have it, I saw an old Russian cab.

Now, I had ridden in many classic cars during my visit, but this type of car was one that I had maybe only seen during my trips to Moscow years ago; the Russian Lada. It wasn’t a very smooth ride back through the tunnel, but it certainly was unique! The little old gentleman driving put on “Mack the Knife” as he swerved, bumped and sped me back to Old Havana. It was seriously one of the funniest, yet terrifying moments I have ever had in a cab…and I take cabs in New York regularly! (Check out the video on Facebook, Snapping the Globe).

Finally, setting my feet on terra firma and still a bit shaky, I headed back to my Airbnb for my last night.

My last night to enjoy delicious Cuban food…

My last night to say admire the amazing architecture…

My last night to hear the cannon firing…

My last night to lay in bed and listen to the city outside my door…

My last night to enjoy my Airbnb host’s hospitality…

I realized that for all my uncertainty about taking this trip, I had found a place that rated in the top of my all-time favorite places! A place that I will certainly return in the future. After all, there were still many things to see within the city and so much outside of it!

Yes, Cuba…I am coming back!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro

  • Address: Havana, Cuba
  • Hours: 1000-1900, daily
  • Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)

Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana

  • Address:
  • Hours: 1000-2200, daily
  • Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)

Sanctuaries and Souvenirs

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The early bird gets the worm…or a great breakfast!

Although I had checked many things off of my list of things to do in Havana, there was still a great deal more to see! As I sat in the dining room, enjoying my eggs, fruit and toast, I checked my map and thought more about the some of the things that were suggested by my seatmate on the flight to Havana.

Deciding to start at the Basilica and Convent of San Francis of Assisi, I thought that I would finally see more of the religious institutions that dot the predominately Catholic country.

Getting anywhere was slow going as I was continually distracted by the unique architecture that existed on each block. Passing the Museo Casa de Mexico Benito Juarez, I made a note to return later if there was time and then made a quick stop to admire the statue of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan military and political leader who led Venezuela, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Panama to independence from the Spanish Empire.

Casa de Benito Juarez and Simon Bolivar Statue

Finally arriving in the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, I first sought out two significant statues. The monument to the Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, sits on a bench, beckoning visitors to take a seat next to him and El Caballero, the bronze likeness of José María López Lledín, a man which much speculation once surrounded. An interesting story surrounds the latter. Originally from Spain, he was was said to have lost his family, arrested for a crime he did not commit and wandered the streets of Havana during the 1950s. He always carried a portfolio with his treasured pens, gifts and colored pieces of cards, which he bestowed on passersby. Over time, he became well known throughout the city and would often entertain with poetry recitals and storytelling. He died in 1985 and was buried in the Cemetery of Santiago de las Vegas. After the restoration of the plaza in the late 1990s, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis. His statue was erected in 2001 and was designed by sculptor José Villa Soberón, who also sculpted the John Lennon sculpture which can be found in the Parque Lennon in Vedado. His beard has been rubbed shiny and it is said that doing so gives good luck!

After a beard rubbing, I admired the lovely, wide open plaza and the beautiful buildings surrounding it, as well as the statue of Fray Junípero Serro with a Juaneño Indian boy, before entering the Basilica.

The original church that stood on this site was built by the Franciscans in 1591 but was damaged by severe storms in 1680 and 1692. A hurricane toppled its tower in 1694. Eventually, construction resulted in the church’s present Baroque stature in 1739, was named a basilica by the Pope and became the city’s premier house of worship. It eventually adjoined the adjacent Franciscan convent.

As I ventured inside, again I was a bit underwhelmed, as I had been with the Havana Cathedral. Its interior is in the shape of a Latin cross with domed ceilings, however, it lacked the grandeur that I thought would exist here. As I later learned, however, from 1762, the church no longer served the Catholic religion. From this time, the British had control over Havana and commandeered the basilica for Anglican services. Considered desecrated by the Protestants, Catholicism never existed within its walls again. Although the monks continued to occupy the convent, Queen Maria Cristina of Spain closed the building and transferred the members of the religious order. In 1907, the property was purchased by the government and sadly, became a warehouse.

Today, the church acts as one of Havana’s most outstanding concert halls and is home to the acclaimed all-female chamber orchestra, Camerata Romeu. As I wandered through the church, I was privy to some of the members performing during a rehearsal session.

Inside the crypt, the remains of many 17th and 18th century aristocrats can be found. The nave and the attached cloister also houses the Museum of Sacred Art which exhibits paintings by José Nicolás de la Escalera and Vicente Escobar, wooden images, early marriage registries and the armchairs and lectern used by Fidel Castro and Pope John Paul II during his 1998 visit. Though I enjoyed wandering through the church’s interior, it was the cloister with its fern-filled courtyards and countless rooms filled with religious artifacts that was most captivating.

The former church’s one hundred and thirty-seven foot tower, once the tallest in Havana (second tallest in Cuba), was previously crowned by a statue of St. Francis of Assisi, whose head was severed during a hurricane in 1846. Though the tower can be accessed by a somewhat rickety staircase (which I had planned to tackle for the beautiful views of the city), it was sadly not meant to be…the spire was closed due to maintenance.

Making my departure, I headed south on Oficios and immediately found myself staring at a train’s coach car, El Coche Mambi. Entering the car, I was greeted by an elderly woman, who explained (in Spanish) that visiting was by tour only. After paying her, she then led me through the car which was used by the Presidents on their tours of the country. Last used by Fidel Castro Ruz, the coach has been converted into a museum and preserved the same as when it was in use. Though my Spanish is basic, I mostly understood the history and what I was seeing as she led me through the coach and explained its contents. The president’s bedroom, the president’s wife’s bedroom, the kitchen, dining room and the president’s desk were quite interesting and beautifully displayed.

As I thanked the gracious senora for the short, yet insightful stopover, I ventured out, making my way to the waterside.

Headed toward the ferry terminal, I first encountered Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral. Since I had deemed the day, “a church day”, I decided that my ferry to Regla could wait while I find if it was possible to see the church’s interior. Discovering unlocked doors, I peered inside, spying a woman performing some tasks. She did not seem disturbed by my presence, so I quietly entered and moved throughout the space, discovering each of the elements that make an orthodox church unique.

The church’s construction dates back to 2004 when Cuban leader Fidel Castro offered to build the cathedral as a monument to Russian and Cuban good-will. The cathedral was built in the Byzantine style with a central golden cupola surrounded by four smaller copper-colored ones. The pieces of the cupolas, as well as elements of decoration, including the floor covering and the church plate, were brought from Moscow and the interior has space for 500 congregants.

After my walk-thru was complete, I ventured back out into the sunshine, finally heading to the ferry terminal. My destination was the small town across the bay where the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla is located. Though I probably would have not done this without some coaxing, it was highly recommended by the tour guide that I sat beside on the airplane. After hearing how much I love visiting churches, he insisted that I take the ferry to see this church, which houses the black Madonna, a highly venerated statue of the Virgin Mary.

I was a bit nervous as I entered the ferry terminal. After having my bag searched, I unsuccessfully searched for a ticket counter. There were many people waiting and as a boat approached from the south, I assumed that this was the correct vessel. Lining up with both locals and tourists, I asked a gentleman if this was the boat to Regla and was told yes, only to glance up and discover that another boat had pulled up to the dock. Hmmm. I decided that I would go with my gut!

As I approached the lanchita on the right, I saw people paying the crew as they boarded. Thankfully, I had smaller change, even though I overpaid a bit…ticket price was only 10 centavos! Making my way across the boat to the open doorways, so that I could get some air while fighting for space among the masses, I again asked someone (who appeared to be a local) if I was on the boat to Regla. “Si Señora”, he replied and I breathed a sigh of relief.

As we pulled away from the dock, I realized that if I indeed was on the wrong boat, the other ferry crossed the bay to the Christ statue and that wouldn’t be such a bad thing. Our ferry motored off, getting further from the city and I spied the golden cupola of Our Lady of Kazan in the distance, reflecting the brilliant glow of the day. And…it looked like we were headed in the right direction!

Seven minutes later, we were pulling up to the dock in Regla and I decided to follow those who appeared to be tourists. From the looks of the area, it seemed like the church was the tourist destination of choice…maybe the only choice.

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla was a short walk and I was met by many vendors sitting on the stone gates which surrounded the church, hoping to sell me a candle or an offering to the Virgin. The church, with its long colorful history, is extremely important to the believers of the Virgin. The statue, which was believed to have been carved by St. Augustine “the African” in the 5th century, was brought from Spain in 453. After surviving a storm in the Strait of Gibraltar, it became known as the patron of sailors.

A small hut was built on the site, to house a copy of the image in 1687 by a pilgrim named Manuel Antonio, but was destroyed by a hurricane only five years later. A more durable chapel was built a few years later and in 1714, Nuestra Señora de Regla was proclaimed patron of the Bahía de la Habana. In 1957, the image was crowned by the Cuban Cardinal in the Havana Cathedral. On September 7, the saint is celebrated when thousands of pilgrims descend on Regla and the image is paraded through the streets.

The church’s vaulted ceiling makes a grand statement above the lightness of the church’s color scheme which is trimmed in blue, a salute to its association with the sea. There are beautiful paintings which depict life on the ocean, carved stations of the cross, saint’s statues and a golden side altar. As you enter the church, however, it is the altar, directly in your line of vision, that houses La Santísima Virgen de Regla. Though I had to wait a short time, I was finally able to approach the altar and take pictures of the Black Madonna…truly awe inspiring.

The ferry ride back to Old Havana was a quick affair and I toyed with the idea of immediately jumping on the other ferry. I wanted to revisit the Christ Statue and Castillo Des Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and I also wanted to tour La Cabana. There were other things in Old Havana that I wanted to discover first, however, so off I went by land, towards the Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market.

Since I had done a bit of browsing on Obispo street, but not yet made any significant purchases, I was eager to see what I might find in this highly recommended establishment. Built in 1885, the Havana’s oldest depository is the home to the largest artisan’s market in the city. A short walk from the harbor, it is easily accessible to cruise ship arrivals and offers everything from clothes to paintings to toys and tobacco accessories. The sheer size of it was quite overwhelming and I was not sure where to turn. As everyone tried to garner my attention, I decided that I would try to find shirts for my sons and a nativity set for my collection. In a predominately Catholic country, it would seem that finding a nativity set would be an easy feat, however, it took at least a half an hour of talking to people, who then went to talk to people, in order to find one! And since I was pretty particular about the type of t-shirts that I was searching for, it was a similar procedure. It was quite exhausting, but I met some interesting people, learned some interesting local news and walked away with the purchases I had planned and then a couple of unplanned ones too!

With my heavy package, I decided that I would begin heading back to my Airbnb to drop them and have a quick bite to eat. Crossing the street, however, I spotted the Church of St. Francisco of Paula. What caught my attention was the tall trio of stained glass windows on the rear of the church. I decided that I should take a quick look from the inside to see their sunlit beauty.

What originally served as an important hospital for women and children during the end of the 17th century, was built with an adjoining church devoted to St. Francis of Paola, one of the founders of the Roman Catholic Order of the Minims. The buildings were destroyed by a hurricane in 1730, but rebuilt in the Baroque style that is seen today. When the Havana Central Railroad attempts to demolish the church was met by opposition, work was completed to have it listed as a National Monument in 1944. Sadly, however, the railroad was able to destroy the hospital.

The church that can be visited today is similar in style to other Havana churches, those of Santo Domingo, Guanabacoa and San Francisco de Asis and has been extensively restored. The stained glass windows, that lured me inside, act as the altarpiece and this church has the only organ that has been preserved in Cuba with its original pipes and machinery. The ashes of the great Cuban violinist Claudio José Brindis de Salas (1852-1911), considered one of the best violinists of his time, are preserved in the church and although the the belfry still exists, its original three bells, destroyed during the hurricane of 1730, were never restored.

My stomach was starting to rumble and my feet were starting to ache, but there was one more church I wanted to see before I shifted gears. A couple of blocks from St. Francis of Paola church was the Iglesia y Convento de la Merced.

Having seen a few churches in the city, I had been a bit underwhelmed. This one, however, did not disappoint. One of the most beautiful churches in Havana, it was built between 1865 and 1867 in the Baroque style and is the type to make you gasp as you lay your eyes on the interior. Decorated by Cuban artists, it contains murals and frescoes throughout with highlights of light blue on the ceiling and an elegant black and white marble floor. Beautiful statuary and intricately carved stations of the cross grace its heart and it was hard not to take a seat on the old carved pews to rest and pray for a few moments. The most intriguing part of the church, however, was the chapel on the left side of the church with a full grotto installed behind the altar. Though the church is suffering from exposure to the damp air and is in need of restoration, it is truly one that I was glad that I did not miss.

Finally, it was time to continue my journey back to my temporary home. It had been a busy morning and I needed to refresh and refuel. After my lunch, it would be time to change channels from churches to the forts that lay across the channel.

From prayers to protection…all in a day in Havana!

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Casa Benito Juarez

  • Address: 116, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
  • Hours: Sunday and Tuesday only, 0930-1430.
  • Admission: Unknown

Statue of Simon Bolivar

  • Address: Mercaderes, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Convento and Basilica Menor of San Francis of Assisi

  • Address: Plaza de San Francisco La Habana Vieja, Havana Cuba
  • Hours: 0930-1800, daily
  • Admission: Church and Museum, $2 CUC (about $2 US), Tower $1 CUC (about $1 US), Children under 12 years, free

El Coche Mambi

  • Address: Oficios y Churruca, Havana, Cuba
  • Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0930-1600. Closed Sunday.
  • Admission: By tour only, $2 CUC (about $2 US)

Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral

  • Address: Avenida del Puerto Esquina Calles Sol y Santa Clara – La Habana Vieja, Havana 10100 Cuba
  • Hours: No posted opening times
  • Admission: free

Terminal de Ferris (Ferry Terminal)

  • Address: Avenue Del Puerto, La Habana, Cuba
  • Hours: 0400-midnight, daily.
  • Admission: 10 centavos (about 10 cents US)
  • Capacity is 90 persons and boats depart every 15 minutes

Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla

  • Address: Avenue Marti, Regla, Cuba
  • Hours: 0800-1700, daily
  • Admission: free, donations accepted

Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market

  • Address: Avenida del Puerto corner of Calle Cuba
  • Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800. Closed on Monday.
  • Admission: free

St. Francis of Paola

  • Address: 110 Leonor Pérez, Havana, Cuba
  • Hours: No posted opening times
  • Admission: free

Iglesia Y Convento de la Merced

  • Address: Calle de Cuba 806, Havana, Cuba
  • Hours: Hours listed are 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, Monday-Saturday and 0900-1300, Sunday, however, I ventured in after the noon hour, so church may or may not be closed. Mass times are 0900, Monday-Saturday and noon, Sunday
  • Admission: free

Halfway Thru Havana

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Three o’clock and thirsty.

There was still plenty of daylight and most attractions in Cuba did not close for a little while. I needed a plan of action that might include a frosty beverage!

Grabbing a seat on a rustic bench, I took a second to regroup.

Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio near the Revolution Museum caught my eye. I had just been near there and it meant a little backtracking, but there were many restaurants just around the corner and it would be nice to have a seat and something to drink.

Though the church was not open, I discovered that it sat on a pretty, yet tiny, colonial square, Plazuela de Santo Ángel. A lovely bronze statue of a woman holding court in front of the church captured my attention. She was dressed in vintage attire, holding a fan and appeared to have just left the church and was going to do her business in Old Havana.

Although there is a placard on the church wall which tells visitors about this woman, Cecilia Valdes, I had to wait until later to decipher who she was as it was written in Spanish. What I later learned was that this woman is the title heroine of a popular 19th century book which had a scene set at this location. The book has inspired operas, literary reiterations and a feature film and has been considered one of the most important novels detailing life in 19th century Cuba. You can also take note of the bust on the nearby wall of Cirilo Villaverde, the Cuban poet, novelist, journalist and freedom fighter. He is known especially for one great literary piece of work. Yes…the novel, Cecilia Valdes!

 As I made my way away from the square, I was intrigued with the area. There were captivating outdoor cafes, fun souvenir shops and colorful fans hanging above the street. It was a beautiful afternoon and it was nice to take a seat under one of the large umbrellas and enjoy a refreshing cerveza!

Once again, I continued my explorations and there was a great detail to take in; small, beautifully crafted tiles on buildings, artists putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces, bits of grafitti, a statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and city wall ruins in the Parque Cespedes La Maestranza and the Police Headquarters situated in a old fortress, were just a few of the treasures that I encountered along the way.

Music playing in the distance caught my ear and I followed the tune. Finding myself in the Plaza de la Catedral, a known locale of countless street performers, I stared up at the profound Havana Cathedral, also known as the Catedral de San Cristobal. One of the eleven cathedrals on the island, it serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese. Built between 1748 and 1777, it was consecrated in 1782.

The Baroque architectural style is quite commanding as you stand before the cathedral in the plaza and if your eye is quite discerning, you may notice that the two bell towers are of unequal size and height. Approaching the facade, I noticed that there were fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone, quickly realizing that the Cathedral is constructed from coral. It is quite beautiful and I could not wait to see what its interior held, especially knowing that it was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini.

The interior is decorated in the neoclassical style and has a central nave, two side aisles, eight side chapels and is in the form of a Latin cross. Though my initial impression of the interior was that it was stunning, with its palatial columns and soaring vaulted ceilings, I realized that it was more of an understated beauty. I have seen my share of opulent religious building throughout the world and this one was not of that class. It was, however, welcoming and offered many sculptures, paintings and frescoes throughout its interior. Some of these paintings and frescoes are by masters Peter Paul Rubens and Bartolome Esteban Murillo. Other standouts are a statue of Apolinar Serrano, Spanish bishop of Havana, who is buried in the Cathedral, a sculpture of Saint Christopher, the Patron Saint of Havana, three fading frescoes by Giuseppe Perovani above the altar, a canvas of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of the Cathedral, and on the altar, sculptures and goldsmith works made in Rome during the first half of the 19th century.

The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Christopher and between 1796 and 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept in the Altar of the Gospel before being taken to the Seville Cathedral in Spain after the Cuban War of Independence.

Finding the side door open, I ventured out and discovered access to the right belltower. I suspected that someone is usually stationed at the entrance to collect an admittance fee, however, no one was present. Making my way up each level of the campanile, I had bird’s eye views of each of the mighty carillons as well as panoramas of the plaza below and even a view across the river of the Christ of Havana. A small gate was unlocked and I discovered that it led onto a portion of the roof. Since there was no one to tell me that I was not allowed and no signs, I ventured to the area and was rewarded with close glimpses of the tiled roof and the spectacular flying buttresses.

After my visit to the Cathedral was complete, I headed back out into the Plaza de la Catedral. Musicians were performing at the El Patio restaurant and locals and visitors were dancing in the square. There were gaily dressed Cuban women, seated at tables and telling fortunes and a general sense of celebration. Walking down the Empedrado, I witnessed many artists along the thoroughfare and older women holding tight between their teeth, one of the things Cuba is known for. It seems that they have learned that tourists love the photo opportunity to pose with a cigar smoking old lady! Here, I also found La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar which lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the establishment since its opening in 1942. Though I would have loved to go inside, the line was fairly long and I really would have preferred to come back in the evening for a proper drink.

Cutting back across the Plaza de la Catedral, my next destination was the Plaza de Armas, Havana’s oldest square. Originally known as Plaza de Iglesia for a church that stood on the site, it was developed in the 1520s. Its current name was adopted in the late 16th century, when the governor used the site to conduct military exercises.

Today, the square is centered with a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and bounded by some important buildings which include the 18th century Palacio de Los Condes de Santovenia (now known as the Hotel Santa Isabel), El Templete, the Public Library, the Museum of Natural History, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.

Museum of Natural History

Hoping to be able to visit the Castillo de la Real Fuerza before closing time, I raced around the property to find the entrance. Luckily, I was allowed inside and began my exploration of the oldest Spanish stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere.

Castillo de la Real Fuerza

Constructed between 1555 and 1577, to safeguard against pirate attacks, it later became the official residence of the Governor of Havana and served as Cuba’s National Archive and National Library. After the Revolution, it housed government offices and a museum of arms. Today, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, serves as a Museum of Ceramics and a Maritime Museum.

After making my way through the lower level and discovering the maritime artifacts located there, I ventured to the second level which houses the bulk of the Maritime Museum and includes the Naval Model-Making Salon and the Underwater Archeology Warehouse. The most spectacular part of the second level, however, is the watchtower which was added in 1634 and is now a symbol of the city. This watchtower is adorned with a bronze statuette, a replica of La Giraldilla of the Seville Cathedral and is used as a weather vane. Though I originally had no knowledge of this watchtower, it was the ladies keeping watch over the museum salons who wanted me to see what made the castle special, that unlocked the door and let me out on the balcony to see it up close!

Upon my departure from the castle, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas. As I entered the gates of El Templete, I was taken aback by the neoclassical architecture, not very common in Havana. The small Greco-Roman temple with Doric columns, dates back to 1827, and was erected in the place where it was believed that the Villa de San Cristobal de la Habana was founded in 1519. Though the workers were in the process of closing the premises for the day, they allowed me to take a quick peek to see the three valuable paintings by French painter Juan Bautista Vermey, which depict the first mass, the first council and the blessing of the Templete on its inauguration.

El Templete

Inside the courtyard, you can spy the Column of Cajigal which honors the Spanish governor in charge of its construction, an image of the Virgin of Pilar, patroness of Spanish sailors (atop the column), and a marble bust of Governor Don Hernando de Soto, the first governor of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana. The ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in various religions, is one of many that has stood on the site. The latest has existed since 1960 and on November 16, residents come to the tree after midnight, circle it three times and throw a coin to its roots and make a wish.

El Templete

Crossing the plaza, I stepped into the courtyard of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, the former offical residence of the governors of Havana. Dating back to the late 1700’s, it is home to the Museum of the City of Havana and houses exhibitions of art and historical artifacts. Though I would have loved to see the interior and its original colonial decor, the palace was closing for the day.

Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales

Though I was disappointed in not having had the opportunity to visit the palace, I stepped back into the street, which I discovered was paved with wooden blocks. This was the first time I had ever seen this and believe me, it was pretty cool!

Walking past the plaza, I made my way past the Mezquita Addallah and Parque Guayasamin toward the beautiful Old Town Square. Though there are many squares and plazas throughout the city, this one was my favorite. Laid out in 1559, this square offers buildings in many different architectural styles, as well as a fountain and unique sculpture. It was here that I finally encountered the Town Dogs.

Addallah Mosque
Parque Guayasamin

I learned about the Town Dogs during my tour that morning but even though I had kept a keen eye out, I had not encountered any of them. The Town Dogs are designated as such by the mayor, protected and cared for by the city, each being vaccinated and sterilized. They wear a tag bearing their names and addresses and are free to roam on their own. Lounging on the steps of the Camera Obscura, I found Nina and P. Oblivious to the fact that I was excited to see them, neither were extremely cooperative about giving me a photogenic look…probably because they also had had a long day and were as tired as I was!

Old Town Square

Spying a restaurant balcony with seating across the square, I made a beeline in that general direction. The Don Eduardo Alegre Bar and Restaurant was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the amazing view below, the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer and the perfect way to end my day!

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Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio

  • Address: Calle Compostela y Cuarteles Loma del Ángel, Havana Cuba
  • Hours: 0700-1900, daily
  • Admission: free

Catedral de San Cristobal

  • Address: Calle Empedrado 156 , La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday 1030-1200, Sunday Mass at 0900.
  • Admission: free. Tower access, $1 CUC ($1 US)

Castello de la Real Fuerza

  • Address: Plaza de Armas e/Calle O’Reilly y Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
  • Hours: 0830-1830, daily
  • Admission: $1 CUC ($1 US)

Hoofing It Thru Havana

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Especial del dia…pollo con queso en trigo.

As I sat in the sanwicheria, eating my chicken and cheese sandwich, I contemplated how to tackle parts of the city which I had not seen that day or on my previous day’s ventures.

Should I make my way to the waterside area bordering Avenue del Puerto for its many museums and churches, venture out to the Malecon’s architectural wonders and take in the fresh sea air or head south to the Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market to seek out some exclusive treasures?

Finally deciding to head north, I made my way along the narrow, dusty streets stopping to capture the captivating architecture and scenes of daily life on my camera. What fascinated me most, however, were the small markets and the carnicerias…not for what they offered or for their appearances, but how locals were required to stand outside in long lines to purchase products. I was a bit confused with the markets, especially, as people stood with their noses pressed against the windows while shopkeepers unlocked the door and allowed one person inside at irregular intervals. After speaking with my host, I learned that purchases are regulated by the government and it is sometimes difficult for locals to obtain necessities. Thankfully, drinks (beer, water and soda) and food were provided by my host and charged to my account, so I never had to figure out how to gain admission into these exchanges.

Continuing on, I decided to conquer the northern part of the city, starting with the Museum of the Revolution. After paying my admission and checking my backpack in the baggage room, I made my through the former Presidential Palace, which dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1913. The awe-inspiring building was decorated by Tiffany’s of New York, contains a jaw-dropping double staircase and many exquisite rooms including the Salón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors), which resembles the room in the Palace of Versailles, the Salón Dorado, used for banquets and decorated in Louis XVI style, the Despacho Presidencial, the President’s office where Fidel Castro was sworn in in 1959 and the chapel with its Tiffany chandelier.

Museum of the Revolution
Salón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors)
Salón Dorado
Despacho Presidencial

Though I was originally unaware of Cuba’s history, especially during the revolutionary period, the displays, though mostly captioned in Spanish, contain much documentation and photographic evidence of Batista’s overthrow and a somewhat skewed view of Castro’s seizure of power. There is a large array of artifacts, clothing (including blood-stained and bullet riddled uniforms), letters, documents, weapons and newspapers. If you look carefully or have a guide point it out to you, you can spy the bullet holes in the walls, near the staircase, from the students’ attempt at overthrowing the government in 1957.


In the rear of the building you can find the Granma, the vessel that brought Castro, Guevara and eighty-two others to Cuba in 1956 with the purpose of overthrowing the regime of Fulgencio Batista. Due to preservation purposes, be warned, the ship is partly obscured by the surrounding glass and continuously guarded. There are other vehicles associated with the revolution surrounding the pavilion, including planes, rockets and an old postal van that was used as a getaway car during the 1957 attack. In the courtyard and throughout the museum, there were many art pieces by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.

The Granma
Courtyard
Sculpture by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.

In addition to seeing many other tourists within the museum, I was a bit taken aback to find many locals as well. I later learned, however, the museum was designed primarily to help Cubans understand their own history.

Exiting the museum, I stopped to take a look at the fragment of the former city wall and the SAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs battle. Just beyond these landmarks, I made my way through the Plaza Trece de Marzo, passing the statue of patriot José Marti on horseback, a gift from U.S. donors through a fund initiated by the Bronx Museum of the Arts. The original bronze statue of Marti on horseback, by equine sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington (from which this was modeled) can be seen in New York’s Central Park.

City Wall Fragment
SAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs
Plaza Trece de Marzo

Walking a ways on the Paseo de Marti, again, I was in awe of the architectural gems. Although some were a shadow of their former selves, you could see the artistry that still prevails. This must have been a beautiful place to walk in its heyday and today is still a nice place to stroll with its colorfully, tiled walkways, large shade trees and dedicated effigies.

Crossing the traffic circle near the Spanish embassy, I walked up to the monument that we had passed earlier in the day during my tour…that of General Maximo Gomez, a commander in the wars for independence. The statue is well maintained and frequented by youngsters who used the wide open area to skate.

As the breeze from the Bay of Havana beckoned me toward the water, I found myself at the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, one of the four historic forts that defended Port Havana. Built more than 400 years ago, San Salvador de la Punta Castle is also one of the three fortresses that appear on the Cuban coat of arms.

Castle La Punta and Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the fort I had visited on my tour earlier during the day, were both built on either sides of the channel’s entry. For centuries, a chain barrier was stretched across the canal to prevent access into the port. If this did not deter marauders, pirates and anyone else with ill-intent, there were many large cannons pointed toward the water.

Today, the castle’s moat is no longer functional and the castle no longer serves in its original capacity. Renovated in 2002, to restore it to its original historic appearance, its interior houses the Castle Museum. There are several rooms that inform about the castle’s history and construction, displays of naval models, various objects from sunken Spanish fleets and information about underwater archeology and the slave trade. Intricate models of other castles in Spain, Italy and Cuba can be found on the lower level and many cannons and artillery can be found on the upper level. Don’t plan on asking for any assistance, the staff has other things to do during the mid-day hours! Can anyone say siesta?

After taking in the castle’s interior, make sure to walk around the promenade that surrounds the castle. Here, you can check out dedications to other castles, statues, cannons and fantastic views of the channel, Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, La Cabana and the Malecón. Take a moment to cross back over the roadway to check out the Monument to the Eight Medical Students, a Greek-style temple, built in 1890, in memory of the students executed in the city in 1871, who were accused of violating the grave of a Spanish journalist and the Real Carcel de La Habana, the remains of a 19th century jail where political figures were incarcerated.

Monument to the Eight Medical Students
Real Carcel de La Habana

At the beginning of my afternoon, one of the options I considered was making my way along the waterway on the Avenue Del Puerto. I had already seen so much of Havana and there was still so much on my agenda, especially in this area. It was hard to believe I had already seen so many interesting places.

With the walkway bordering the channel nearby, I decided that that would be my general direction. Sunset was many hours away, leaving me with ample time to continue my explorations…what else would I find in this beautiful, old city?

To be continued…

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Museo de Revolucion

  • Address: Calle Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Zulueta, Havana 10600 Cuba
  • Hours: 0930-1600, daily
  • Admission: Adult Nationals, $8 CUC ($8 US), Under 12 years, free. Adults, International, $10 CUC ($10 US) Guided tours, $2 ($2 US), only available in Spanish. Ticket office open from 0930-1600.

Plaza 13 de Marzo and Statue of José Marti

  • Address: Agramonte (y Genios), Havana, La Habana, Cuba
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Monument to General Maximo Gomez

  • Address: Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta

  • Address: Paseo de Marti Prado y Av. del Puerto, Havana Cuba
  • Hours: 0900-1700, Wednesday to Sunday
  • Admission: $6 CUC ($6 US)

Monument to the Eight Medical Students

  • Address: 4JWR+4W, Havana, Cuba
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Cuba Cruising, Chevy Style

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There was one thing I wanted to do in Cuba.

Ride in one of the beautifully restored classic automobiles.

Since my Airbnb hosts had sent a classic car to retrieve me from the airport, that request was already fulfilled.

Okay…kind of.

Though I had seen a bit of the city from this old Ford on my way to the Airbnb, it wasn’t quite what I had envisioned. I pictured myself perched in a convertible, taking in the sunshine and the major sites of the city.

Having heard of Strawberry Tours, I decided to book their Vintage Car Tour. Reading up on the nature of their tour, I learned that I could book one seat in the car for $29 or the entire car for $99. Well, since I’m not a fan of sharing space with others (those who may or may not get in the way of my photo opportunities), I decided that the entire car was worth the splurge!

My second day in Havana started with a hearty breakfast at my Airbnb. Though it was not included in the nightly rate, I decided that it would be a great way to experience some local culture and cuisine and requested that it be ready for me before I ventured out. It was a delicious spread consisting of eggs, toast and lots of fresh fruit, preparing me for a long day of sightseeing!

The meeting point was only three blocks away and I paced back and forth, hoping that I had indeed gotten the location right.

A few minutes later, a beautiful, red convertible Chevrolet pulled up. My guide and driver both introduced themselves and invited me to walk around, inspect and take as many pictures of this classic beauty as I could manage. It was quite evident that they were pleased with my admiration of the car and that I was to be their only client (something that probably made their job a lot easier) for the tour.

Jumping into the back seat, we set off, driving the narrow streets as Eduardo, my tour guide, began to give me his introductory remarks and Luis, navigated.

Our first stop was the Fabrica de Tabaco Partagas, so that I could see one of the trademarks of Cuba…cigars. Though I think that this location was once an actual Factory, it is more of a store and an opportunity to purchase some souvenir cheroots. Not much of a smoker, I admired the sights and of course, smells, before we set off for different parts of the city.

Heading away from Old Havana, we drove through Chinatown, feeling the wind in my hair and thinking how fortunate I was to be able to experience this old city in this manner. Not really sure of the landmarks we were going to visit, I was surprised when we pulled into the parking lot at the Plaza de la Revolución.

The Plaza de la Revolución is huge…72,000 square meters and the thirty-first largest city square in the world. At first, I thought we had just pulled into a parking lot because there were so many cars, however, in fact it becomes a parking lot for the many tours that frequent the area and our beautiful Ford captured the attention of many other visitors. What caught my attention, however, was the tall tower and statue which pay tribute to Jose Marti and on the other side of the square, the buildings of the Ministry of Interior and Communications. These buildings are the real highlights of the plaza with the giant matching steel facades which display the most important heroes of the Cuban Revolution, Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos.

Originally called the Plaza Cívica (Civic Square) after its construction in 1959, it was later renamed after the revolution, as this was the location where many political rallies took place with political figures, including Fidel Castro, addressed the crowds. Years later, two of the most important religious figures of the world, sermonized the predominately Cuban Catholic population from this same location…Pope John Paul II in 1998 and Pope Francis in 2015.

Other important buildings are located here, including the National Library and the Palace of the Revolution, the seat of the Cuban government and Communist Party. Since our time was limited, we were unable to check out these landmarks at closer range, however, I do suggest taking the time to visit and inspect the monument in this important location.

Moving on, we drove through neighborhoods boasting cemeteries, restaurants and homes, finally making our way into a remarkable green space…the Parque Almendares, also known as the Havana Forest. After pulling into a parking lot adjacent to a small snack bar, the first thing that caught my eye was a beautiful, red Model T Ford parked in the rear. An elderly man sat in the front seat and a small sign posted on the front window advised that photos were not free. I gladly gave him a few dollars so that I could photograph this lovingly-preserved antique. As I told him that I was photographing the car for my father-in-law, a collector (who was also in possession of one), he became very excited and wanted to show me every well-tuned detail, including the engine, the spare tires, axles and rumbleseat! He even insisted that I sit in the car so that I could have a photograph for my father-in-law.

Saying our goodbyes, I walked around this area of the park, near the river. Eduardo informed me that on some days, you can witness those who participate in the Afro-Cuban religion of Santeria making animal sacrifices on the banks of the Rio Almendares. Thankfully, this was not one of those days!

As we returned to the parking lot, I learned what to expect at every parking lot we would come to. The owners of the dazzling cars that had brought other visitors, had their hoods open so that they, and anyone else who wanted to take a look, could! Of course I made my way around my favorites!

Heading out of the park, we drove toward the coast and along the famed Malecón, the broad esplanade and seawall that stretches for five miles along the azure waters of the Caribbean. It is a spectacular and popular destination in Havana and a spot to see fishermen casting their lines and families and friends taking leisurely strolls.

As I enjoyed the sunshine, blue skies and spirited Spanish music being played on the radio, I relished the scenery. There are a number of important monuments along the way, including those of General Maximo Gomez, Antonio Maceo, General Calixto Garcia and the Monuments to the Victims of the USS Maine as well as many buildings of interest, such as the United States Embassy and the spectacular Cuban National Hotel, set high on a cliff.

Cuban National Hotel
Monument to General Maximo Gomez
United States Embassy

Transiting the Tunel de La Habana, we drove to the Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro, one of the symbols of Havana. It is a landmark that is most visited by both tourists and locals and has appeared in many movies over the years. As we stood near the entrance, Eduardo gave me a brief history of this stunning fortress, but again, time was limited and there was no chance to check out its interiors.

Hopping back into our candy-apple hued Chevy, we made our way past another fortress, Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana, where historic cannons are fired nightly and the Museo Historico Militar Exhibition. We drove slowly past the assortment of military equipment on display from the Cuban Missile Crisis and I made a mental note that this might be a place that I would like to return.

Museo Historico Militar Exhibition

Pulling into a small parking lot and spotting something towering at the end of a pathway, I realized that we were going to visit Havana’s version of the Christ statue, El Cristo de La Habana. Having visited many other Christ statues in the world, I was excited to see the scale of this one up close.

During the turbulent 1950’s, president Fulgencio Batista commissioned a colossal statue of Christ, hoping to gain support of the predominately Christian population. Sculpted by Jilma Madera, a well-known Cuban artist, it was a simple piece, made in Italy, carved from Carrara marble and blessed by Pope Pius XII. Even though the monument was designed with the best intentions, bad luck followed its inauguration. Fidel Castro conquered Havana and took control of the country, religion was made illegal and the military zone near the statue was placed under strict control, leaving the grand statue to be forgotten for more than thirty years.

In the 1990’s, the government reopened the site, so that the Christ statue might look down onto the port of Havana and the citizens and tourists could enjoy its beauty. In addition to admiring the statue, it is the perfect spot to take in the incredible views of the city and the port. Though not as large as the one in Rio, I thought that this Christ had a more delicate and graceful appearance.

We returned to our car, checking out a few others in the parking lot, as this was now a thing! It was time, however, to return to the point where we had departed from a few hours earlier, in what I had now started to think of as my Chevy. Yes indeed, I was becoming attached!

As we drove down Teniente Rey street, I sadly realized my time cruising around Havana in the Chevy was now over. My time in that Chevy, however, showed me what a fabulous city it was and even though there was so much I had seen of the city so far, there was so much still to go. Saying goodbye to Eduardo and Luis and the Chevy, I made my way to a local sanwicheria, hoping to grab a bite to eat and plan my next move!

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Strawberry Tours

Fabrica de Tabaco Partagas

  • Address: Calle Industria, Havana, Cuba
  • Hours: 0900-1330
  • Admission: 10 CUC ($10 US)

Plaza de la Revolución

  • Address: Avenida Paseo, La Habana, Cuba, Havana Plaza De La Revolucion
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: Free

Parque de Almendares

  • Address: Below the bridge on Calle 23, Havana Cuba
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: Free

Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro

Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana

  • Address: Parque Histórico Militar Morro-Cabaña
  • Hours: 0800-2300, daily
  • Admission: 6 CUC, daytime hours, 8 CUC, nightime hours ($6.00 and $8.00 US)

Museo Historic Militar

  • Address: 4MW3+Q2, Havana, Cuba
  • Hours: Unknown
  • Admission: Free

El Cristo de La Habana

  • Address: Casa Blanca, Havana Cuba
  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: Free
  • Getting There: Taxi (about 10 CUC) or Ferry from Terminal de Ferris, Lancha Habana-Casa Blanca. Ferry fare about .45 CUC (.45 US).

Hello Havana!

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Stepping onto Obrapia Street, I first looked left and then right.

First instincts were to gauge how safe I felt in this new city. Heading back one block, I decided to walk along Obispo Street, which is only open to foot traffic. Walking along this pedestrian friendly thoroughfare, I noticed that it was very well kept and there were many shops, banks, parks, restaurants and a few museums.

Obispo Street

Ducking into an artisan market, I browsed the unique souvenirs available and then made my way across the street to inspect a statue of Don Quixote by Leo D’Lazaro (1989), in the Parque de Obispo. There were many locals relaxing in the shade of the large, old trees and the smell of Cuban cuisine filled the air.

Taking a seat on one of the benches, I observed the passersby. Everyone was going about their business and there appeared to be many tourists in the area, making me feel more comfortable. I felt good about venturing further.

After taking a look at my map, I decided to walk westward toward the famous El Floridita bar, located at the Parque Francisco de Albear y Lara. Floridita is a historic fish restaurant and cocktail bar located across from the National Museum of Fine Arts of Havana. It is a hot tourist spot, perfect for people watching and known for having been one of the favorite hangouts of Ernest Hemingway. Though I never made it inside, I was told that there is a life size bronze statue of the writer and excellent daiquiris!

Parque Francisco de Albear y Lara
Parque Francisco de Albear y Lara
Parque Francisco de Albear y Lara

Interesting little tuk-tuks were parked all along the square, waiting for someone to hire them, and along with horse-drawn carriages, there were countless classic beauties driving through and parked inside the square. It was evident that the owners were quite proud of their vehicles and most posed alongside waiting for someone to hire them or just engage them in conversation. I watched as many a gentleman popped the hood, eager to share the immaculate condition of their automobiles.

Continuing on, I walked through the Parque Central among the tall, elegant palm trees lining the square and admired the statue of Jose Marti, poet, essayist, patriot and martyr, who became the symbol of Cuba’s struggle for independence from Spain.

Parque Central and Jose Marti Monument

Next on my walking tour was the Boulevard de San Rafael where I spotted the London Bar, Hotel Inglaterra and many old but intriguing buildings. Back to the corner of the boulevard and the Paseo di Marti, I stood in awe of the National Theater. True elegance reigned here, both on the exterior and the interior, as it is the home of the Cuban National Ballet. The Baroque exterior boasts some amazing white marble sculptures which are part of a group of ninety-seven by Giuseppe Moretti and Geneva Mercer and represent charity, education, music and theater. There were posters advertising upcoming performances and I wondered if I could somehow procure tickets for a memorable evening!

San Rafael Street
San Rafael Street
San Rafael Street
San Rafael Street
National Theater
National Theater

What I had spied from my balcony now stood before me…the National Capitol Building or El Capitolio. One of the most visited sites in Havana, the building dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1926 and is located in the exact center of Havana. Prior to the Cuban Revolution of 1959, Congress was housed in the building until it was abolished and disbanded. The building fell into disrepair and since 2013, the government of Cuba has undertaken a restoration project hoping to use the building once again for Cuba’s National Assembly.

National Capitol Building or El Capitolio

Although its design looks much like the United States Capitol, it is a meter higher, a meter wider, a meter longer and much richer in detail. Until the 1950’s, it was the tallest building in the city and houses the world’s third largest indoor statue, located in the apse. La Republica or the Statue of the Republic stands at almost 92 meters high. There are also statues at the main entrance, flanking the fifty-two steps, by Angelo Zanelli, twelve ionic granite columns measuring forty-six feet tall and three large bronze doors with bas-reliefs also by Zanelli which allow access to the main hall. Though I would have loved to have toured the building, it was later in the day and I wasn’t sure it was open. There were other things that I wanted to see, so I hoped that I could squeeze the Capitol into one of my other activity-packed days.

Leisurely strolling along the Paseo di Marti, I admired the unique lamp posts, colorful buildings and the occasional classic car that drove by. Crossing the street near the Capitol, I entered the Parque de la Fraternidad or Fraternity Park with its multitude of busts of Latin and North American leaders. Once known as the Square of Mars and the site of military exercises, the park is now a busy meeting place and centered with a massive ceilba tree.

Parque Fraternidad
Parque Fraternidad
Parque Fraternidad

After making my way around the park I casually glanced down the street and noticed something that I was not expecting to see. A Chinese gate!

Yes, Havana has a Chinatown!

Though not very ornate in nature, it was surprising and probably one of the only places in the world that you will spot antique Fords and Chevrolets driving though its arch. Making my way only a short distance past the gate, I learned from my tour guide the next day, that there are actually some pretty good Chinese restaurants in this area.

Buildings near Chinatown

There were many buildings in various states of repair or disrepair. As I walked along Cienfuegos Street, one of the most photographed areas in the city and known for its unique architectural elements, I remember thinking that some might think it is not a beautiful part of the city because not everything was new and shiny. I, however, thought the opposite. I loved every bit of peeling paint, every cracked pane of glass, trees growing off of the roofs, every colorful, but dirt-covered tile and every rusty piece of ironwork. This was a city with character.

Cienfuegos Street
Cienfuegos Street
Cienfuegos Street
Cienfuegos Street
Cienfuegos Street
Cienfuegos Street

Realizing that it was the beginning of the end of the day (a very long one, I might add), I decided to make my way back towards my hotel with the hopes of finding a nice little outdoor restaurant where I could have a nice cold beer and watch the world go by!

But first, as I made my way through Parque Cristo, admiring the monument in the center, I noticed something that I could not resist…a church, Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje. Since this was my first visit to a church in Havana, I wasn’t sure of the protocol for visitors, especially since this seemed like more of a neighborhood church. The woman at the door, however, greeted me warmly and allowed me to walk through freely and take photos. There were many beautiful stained glass windows and interesting statues but the ceiling was what gave this church its singularity. I learned that this church is one of the oldest in Havana, dating back to 1755 and once acted as the Cathedral of Havana…I picked a good one for my first!

Parque Cristo
Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje
Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje
Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje
Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje

Winding my way back to Obispo Street, I walked along with the crowds, admiring the architecture and every little thing that I could take in. Finally, locating a restaurant with outdoor seating, I grabbed a seat, ordered some food and ordered the beer that I had been thirsting for during my wanderings under the blazing Cuban sun. All the while, I relaxed and enjoyed the Cuban musical stylings of local musicians.

As I wandered back to my Airbnb, it was growing dark.

But, you know what? I never once glanced over my shoulder. I never worried about anyone hiding in some dark corner. In fact, I was awed by the gentlemen who stepped off the sidewalk to allow me to pass. I was awed by the hospitality of everyone I met and the pleasant greetings extended to me when they found out I was an American.

Now, why was I nervous about coming?

Sitting on my balcony that night, I watched the children play in the street below and the neighbors sitting on their stoops listening to music and talking until late. Though I could still hear the goings-on through my closed balcony door, once I crawled into bed, it really didn’t bother me.

It was Havana!

Hello Havana!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

El Floridita Bar and Restaurant

National Theater

  • Address: Plaza de la Revolucion Havana, Cuba
  • The theater has 4 ticket offices located on the south side (Avenida Paseo) of the facility. Their hours of operation are Monday through Friday from 1000-1200 and 1300-1400. When the shows take place on Saturdays, Sundays, Mondays or holidays, the ticket offices open from 1000 until just 30 minutes after the start of the presentation.

El Capitolio

  • Address: Paseo de Marti, Havana 10200
  • Hours: Monday to Saturday, 1030-2200 and Sunday 1030-1300

Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje

  • Address: Plaza del Cristo, La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba

So…You Want To Go To Cuba?

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Yes please.

Maybe because Cuba was denied to U.S. citizens for so long, it is a place that has held a place of honor at the top of many bucket lists when it was finally opened up again.

There were many times when I thought I would work it into my travel schedule. Sometimes something else came up…or the flights were full…or I just plain chickened out. The fact that there was no cellphone service and no connection to the mainland honestly frightened me, especially if I was going to travel there by myself or with my children.

But, each time that I didn’t take that risk, I wanted to kick myself later.

Seeing some free time on my schedule, earlier this year, I decided that I was definitely going to make this trip to Cuba happen!

Maybe.

I hoped.

Since I was going to be traveling standby, I had to watch the flights carefully and my accommodations had to be booked only when I absolutely knew that I was going to make it there.

At two in the morning, I still wasn’t sure if I was going to leave for Havana in the morning. I lay in bed struggling with the decision, my stomach in knots, wondering if I was doing the right thing. On a whim, I messaged a few Airbnb owners and explained my situation. I was going to catch an early flight to Atlanta, arriving around 7:30 a.m. At that point, I would watch the flight to Havana for an hour and then reach out to make my reservation. My biggest question was whether or not I would have enough time to hear back from them to confirm the reservation and for them to forward me the address of the accommodation. If I landed with no cell service and no address…well, you can see why I was stressed.

Almost immediately, one of the owner’s responded. He understood my circumstances and right away, sent me the address. He told me that he would await my reservation at the appointed time and that he could also arrange for a car and driver to pick me up at the airport.

One hurdle down. I could get an hour’s sleep.

After arriving at the airport, I watched the flight which was departing in four hours and after deciding that I would probably make it, I set up the reservation and secured the car and driver.

Hurdle two, down.

Settling down at the gate, I filled out the visa paperwork that was required and paid the visa fee. The agents had a lot to do with the visa processing of the other passengers and the boarding process and I stood by nervously praying that I had not made the Airbnb reservation unnecessarily. Finally, the agent motioned me over to the counter, giving me a seat assignment and my proof of insurance.

Hurdle three, down.

Walking down the jetway, I thought, “This is my last chance to bail. Am I making the right decision?”

My seat was in first class and much to the dismay of the gentleman next to me, he suddenly learned that I was infringing upon the extra space that he thought he was going to have. Graciously, however, he greeted me and informed me that he had cleaned my seat with his supply of Lysol wipes!

As we began to speak, I told him how nervous I was and learned that this was his 120th trip to Cuba! You know how they say that sometimes things happen for a reason? Well, I must have been placed next to this man for the sole purpose of making me feel good about my decision to travel to Havana on my own.

At one time, he worked as a contractor for my airline when the need arose for a liaison between the airline and the government for the onset of the initial service. Prior to that and currently, he worked and is working as a tour operator. After learning where I was staying, he made me feel extremely confident about my decision as he had booked clients at this particular property. He was surprised to hear how hesitant I was, despite having traveled around the world, sometimes solo, and assured me that I would be completely safe. After giving me a list of restaurant recommendations and special items of interest, he reached up into his baggage and pulled out a Cuban tour book. Opening it to the Old Havana section, he suggested that I spend the flight looking through it and photographing the sections that interested me.

The book was outstanding and by the time I spotted the lush, green landscape sprawling below, I was only feeling excited anticipation!

Exiting customs and immigration, I exchanged currency and then spotted a driver holding a sign with my name. As he led me into the parking lot, my breath caught a little in my chest. I had heard about the antique cars that populate the city, but this was my first glimpse of the many positioned in the lot and my driver led me to a beautiful, old turquoise Ford. It was thrilling to ride in such a beautiful antique and though I don’t speak much Spanish and he didn’t speak much English, we managed a few pleasantries and we embarked on the journey towards my hotel in Old Havana.

After an enlightening forty-five minute drive (yes, the airport is that far!), we turned onto a narrow street and pulled in front of the building that houses Havana Dream, the Airbnb that was going to be my home for the next three nights. I thanked my lucky stars that we had arranged a driver to meet me as the building was nondescript and probably would have been difficult for a regular cab driver to find.

Greeted warmly by my host and his manager, I was shown to my room, a very modern and well-appointed space with a small balcony overlooking the street and down to the National Capitol building. What a sight!

I had made it!

Now what?

Last hurdle. I needed to go out. After quizzing the house manager about the time of sunset and safety measures, I decided to take a rousing shower and dress casually enough for going out, yet smartly enough to stay out for dinner and the return before dark.

Descending the stairs, I cautiously opened the door and stepped out onto Obrapia Street.

Despite not having had decided to travel here a mere twelve hours earlier, I was finally here. My 76th country! I had mounted many hurdles to get here and it was time to see what lay in store for me.

Old Havana was out there waiting to be discovered!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Note: ATM machines and credit cards do not work for American credit cards in Cuba. American cash and other currencies can be exchanged at the airport. Bring more currency than you expect to use. Though my Airbnb arranged for the transportation, I was responsible for the fare, 30CUC. My Airbnb also provided currency exchange when needed at local, published bank rates. Additionally, wifi cards could be purchased from my Airbnb which could be used while at my accommodations, however, because I was using an Iphone, once the card’s service was initiated, it was prudent to use all of the minutes allotted or risk losing it.

Havana Dream

  • Address: 408 Obrapia Street, Old Havana, Cuba
  • Prices vary, but approximately $65-$75 per night.