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There was one thing I wanted to do in Cuba.
Ride in one of the beautifully restored classic automobiles.
Since my Airbnb hosts had sent a classic car to retrieve me from the airport, that request was already fulfilled.
Okay…kind of.
Though I had seen a bit of the city from this old Ford on my way to the Airbnb, it wasn’t quite what I had envisioned. I pictured myself perched in a convertible, taking in the sunshine and the major sites of the city.
Having heard of Strawberry Tours, I decided to book their Vintage Car Tour. Reading up on the nature of their tour, I learned that I could book one seat in the car for $29 or the entire car for $99. Well, since I’m not a fan of sharing space with others (those who may or may not get in the way of my photo opportunities), I decided that the entire car was worth the splurge!
My second day in Havana started with a hearty breakfast at my Airbnb. Though it was not included in the nightly rate, I decided that it would be a great way to experience some local culture and cuisine and requested that it be ready for me before I ventured out. It was a delicious spread consisting of eggs, toast and lots of fresh fruit, preparing me for a long day of sightseeing!
The meeting point was only three blocks away and I paced back and forth, hoping that I had indeed gotten the location right.
A few minutes later, a beautiful, red convertible Chevrolet pulled up. My guide and driver both introduced themselves and invited me to walk around, inspect and take as many pictures of this classic beauty as I could manage. It was quite evident that they were pleased with my admiration of the car and that I was to be their only client (something that probably made their job a lot easier) for the tour.
Jumping into the back seat, we set off, driving the narrow streets as Eduardo, my tour guide, began to give me his introductory remarks and Luis, navigated.
Our first stop was the Fabrica de Tabaco Partagas, so that I could see one of the trademarks of Cuba…cigars. Though I think that this location was once an actual Factory, it is more of a store and an opportunity to purchase some souvenir cheroots. Not much of a smoker, I admired the sights and of course, smells, before we set off for different parts of the city.
Heading away from Old Havana, we drove through Chinatown, feeling the wind in my hair and thinking how fortunate I was to be able to experience this old city in this manner. Not really sure of the landmarks we were going to visit, I was surprised when we pulled into the parking lot at the Plaza de la Revolución.
The Plaza de la Revolución is huge…72,000 square meters and the thirty-first largest city square in the world. At first, I thought we had just pulled into a parking lot because there were so many cars, however, in fact it becomes a parking lot for the many tours that frequent the area and our beautiful Ford captured the attention of many other visitors. What caught my attention, however, was the tall tower and statue which pay tribute to Jose Marti and on the other side of the square, the buildings of the Ministry of Interior and Communications. These buildings are the real highlights of the plaza with the giant matching steel facades which display the most important heroes of the Cuban Revolution, Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos.
Originally called the Plaza Cívica (Civic Square) after its construction in 1959, it was later renamed after the revolution, as this was the location where many political rallies took place with political figures, including Fidel Castro, addressed the crowds. Years later, two of the most important religious figures of the world, sermonized the predominately Cuban Catholic population from this same location…Pope John Paul II in 1998 and Pope Francis in 2015.
Other important buildings are located here, including the National Library and the Palace of the Revolution, the seat of the Cuban government and Communist Party. Since our time was limited, we were unable to check out these landmarks at closer range, however, I do suggest taking the time to visit and inspect the monument in this important location.
Moving on, we drove through neighborhoods boasting cemeteries, restaurants and homes, finally making our way into a remarkable green space…the Parque Almendares, also known as the Havana Forest. After pulling into a parking lot adjacent to a small snack bar, the first thing that caught my eye was a beautiful, red Model T Ford parked in the rear. An elderly man sat in the front seat and a small sign posted on the front window advised that photos were not free. I gladly gave him a few dollars so that I could photograph this lovingly-preserved antique. As I told him that I was photographing the car for my father-in-law, a collector (who was also in possession of one), he became very excited and wanted to show me every well-tuned detail, including the engine, the spare tires, axles and rumbleseat! He even insisted that I sit in the car so that I could have a photograph for my father-in-law.
Saying our goodbyes, I walked around this area of the park, near the river. Eduardo informed me that on some days, you can witness those who participate in the Afro-Cuban religion of Santeria making animal sacrifices on the banks of the Rio Almendares. Thankfully, this was not one of those days!
As we returned to the parking lot, I learned what to expect at every parking lot we would come to. The owners of the dazzling cars that had brought other visitors, had their hoods open so that they, and anyone else who wanted to take a look, could! Of course I made my way around my favorites!
Heading out of the park, we drove toward the coast and along the famed Malecón, the broad esplanade and seawall that stretches for five miles along the azure waters of the Caribbean. It is a spectacular and popular destination in Havana and a spot to see fishermen casting their lines and families and friends taking leisurely strolls.
As I enjoyed the sunshine, blue skies and spirited Spanish music being played on the radio, I relished the scenery. There are a number of important monuments along the way, including those of General Maximo Gomez, Antonio Maceo, General Calixto Garcia and the Monuments to the Victims of the USS Maine as well as many buildings of interest, such as the United States Embassy and the spectacular Cuban National Hotel, set high on a cliff.
Transiting the Tunel de La Habana, we drove to the Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro, one of the symbols of Havana. It is a landmark that is most visited by both tourists and locals and has appeared in many movies over the years. As we stood near the entrance, Eduardo gave me a brief history of this stunning fortress, but again, time was limited and there was no chance to check out its interiors.
Hopping back into our candy-apple hued Chevy, we made our way past another fortress, Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana, where historic cannons are fired nightly and the Museo Historico Militar Exhibition. We drove slowly past the assortment of military equipment on display from the Cuban Missile Crisis and I made a mental note that this might be a place that I would like to return.
Pulling into a small parking lot and spotting something towering at the end of a pathway, I realized that we were going to visit Havana’s version of the Christ statue, El Cristo de La Habana. Having visited many other Christ statues in the world, I was excited to see the scale of this one up close.
During the turbulent 1950’s, president Fulgencio Batista commissioned a colossal statue of Christ, hoping to gain support of the predominately Christian population. Sculpted by Jilma Madera, a well-known Cuban artist, it was a simple piece, made in Italy, carved from Carrara marble and blessed by Pope Pius XII. Even though the monument was designed with the best intentions, bad luck followed its inauguration. Fidel Castro conquered Havana and took control of the country, religion was made illegal and the military zone near the statue was placed under strict control, leaving the grand statue to be forgotten for more than thirty years.
In the 1990’s, the government reopened the site, so that the Christ statue might look down onto the port of Havana and the citizens and tourists could enjoy its beauty. In addition to admiring the statue, it is the perfect spot to take in the incredible views of the city and the port. Though not as large as the one in Rio, I thought that this Christ had a more delicate and graceful appearance.
We returned to our car, checking out a few others in the parking lot, as this was now a thing! It was time, however, to return to the point where we had departed from a few hours earlier, in what I had now started to think of as my Chevy. Yes indeed, I was becoming attached!
As we drove down Teniente Rey street, I sadly realized my time cruising around Havana in the Chevy was now over. My time in that Chevy, however, showed me what a fabulous city it was and even though there was so much I had seen of the city so far, there was so much still to go. Saying goodbye to Eduardo and Luis and the Chevy, I made my way to a local sanwicheria, hoping to grab a bite to eat and plan my next move!
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Strawberry Tours
- https://strawberrytours.com/havana/tours/vintag
- e-car-tours
- Address: Meeting point, Teniente Rey 360
- Hours: Tours start at 0900 and 1145
- Price: One seat, $29 or Full Car, $99 for 0900 tour and one seat, $34 or Full Car, $109 for 1145 tour.
- Tours conducted in English and Spanish
Fabrica de Tabaco Partagas
- Address: Calle Industria, Havana, Cuba
- Hours: 0900-1330
- Admission: 10 CUC ($10 US)
Plaza de la Revolución
- Address: Avenida Paseo, La Habana, Cuba, Havana Plaza De La Revolucion
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: Free
Parque de Almendares
- Address: Below the bridge on Calle 23, Havana Cuba
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: Free
Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro
- http://www.lahabana.com/guide/castillo-de-los-tres-reyes-del-morro/
- Address: La Habana del Este, Havana, Cuba
- Hours: 1000-1900, daily
- Admission: 4 CUC ($4.00 US)
Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana
- Address: Parque Histórico Militar Morro-Cabaña
- Hours: 0800-2300, daily
- Admission: 6 CUC, daytime hours, 8 CUC, nightime hours ($6.00 and $8.00 US)
Museo Historic Militar
- Address: 4MW3+Q2, Havana, Cuba
- Hours: Unknown
- Admission: Free
El Cristo de La Habana
- Address: Casa Blanca, Havana Cuba
- Hours: 24 hours
- Admission: Free
- Getting There: Taxi (about 10 CUC) or Ferry from Terminal de Ferris, Lancha Habana-Casa Blanca. Ferry fare about .45 CUC (.45 US).
Entering the complex near the Arch of Titus, we discovered many paths throughout to survey the area in its entirety, encompassing the two basilicas, Fulvia Aemilia, a 100 meter public hall with a two-story porticoed facade dating back to 179 BC and Basilica Julia, built by Julius Caesar on the site of Basilica Sempronia in 54 BC. The Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, erected in AD 141 and transformed into a church in the 8th century (Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Miranda) and the Temple of Romulus are two of the most intact buildings on the premises. Near the Temple of Romulus, you will find the Basilica of Maxentius, the largest building on the forum, originally measuring 100 meters by 65 meters.
Also on the Via Sacra, we discovered the Casa delle Vestali, the home of the virgins who tended the sacred flame in the Tempio di Vesta. These priestesses, aged between six and ten years, were selected from aristocratic families to serve in the temple for thirty years. So great was the responsibility of keeping both the flame and their virginity intact that the penalty of flogging and/or death was imposed for those who did not adhere to the orders. The statues which honor these virgins line the Via Sacra and though most are in good condition, a many are missing their heads.
At the end of the Via Sacra, we came upon the Arco di Settimio Severo, a 23 meter high structure, built in AD 203 and dedicated to the emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta. The arch commemorated the Roman victory over the Parthians.
The remains of the Rostri could be seen in front of the arch. This elaborate podium was the site of Mark Antony’s famous, “Friends, Romans and countrymen…” speech. Facing the Rostri is the Colonna di Foca (Column of Phocus) which fronts what once was the Forum’s main square.
Palatine Hill is connected to the Forum and at the center of the seven hills of Rome. Standing above the Forum, it was once the place where Imperial palaces were built. Heading uphill, we made our way through the grounds.
The Houses of Augustus and Livia, are still standing and in good condition and house some impressive art and frescoes. Tours of both of these impressive structures are available, however, advance tickets were required and we were not in possession. If you can secure them ahead of time, it is worth the effort in order to check out Augustus’ private study.
The Palatine Museum is also open to the public and contains a display of Roman statuary and findings from the hippodrome, however, being the end of our day, we decided that this would have to wait until another visit.
Our first stop, the beautiful Torre de Belém. Sitting in the middle of the water, on a small island, it is accessible by bridge. Built in the 16th century, this fortified tower was once a part of the defense system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was commissioned by King John II and is composed of a bastion and a four story tower built in the Portuguese Manueline style.
As I took picture after picture, I realized that this beautiful structure reminded me of a sandcastle still standing even after the tide has surrounded it. Though I would have liked to tour the tower, it was getting late, there was a line and my travel partners were not interested in waiting. Reluctantly, I walked away to discover the other monuments in the area, knowing that I would have to make this a priority when I returned.
The next monument along the shore was the Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar. Similar to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this monument pays tribute to those who fought in the Portuguese War in Africa, from 1961-1974. Both striking and somber, the monument, designed by artists Carlos Guerrero and Batista Barros, is comprised of three distinctive sections…the flame, the monument and the memorial wall. While the flame burns eternally, you can take note of over 9,000 names of the fallen inscribed alphabetically and by year on the marble wall behind it. Standing in the shallow pool, are two large angled pillars jutting out above the flame.
A small chapel is located inside in the monument and there is a museum adjacent which focuses on Portuguese Overseas Wars, the modern Portuguese military and World War I objects. There is also a tomb of an unknown soldier from this war, brought from Guinea-Bissau.
The monument, erected in 1960, celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries when Porgual dominated the sea trade between the continents. Observing a design originally conceived by Jose Angelo Cottineli Telmo and then Antonio Pardal Monteiro, the structure was adorned with thirty-four sculptures by Leopoldo de Almeida, including Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. The main statue of Henry the Navigator, as well as the others, represent those who have contributed to Portugal’s reputation in the age of discoveries; poets, explorers, navigators, crusaders and mapmakers.
Though we did not enter the structure, we were informed that it is divided into three levels. The ground floor covers the history of Lisbon, the second has two exhibition halls and four other rooms on the third floor. The top of the monument is accessible and used as a watchtower.
The festival’s main idea is to bring together the entire peninsula and increase the awareness of its unique culture and traditions, especially with the incorporation of the pagan masks which are common in the Spanish and Portuguese cultures. Besides the regional groups participating, this year’s parade included Boi Tinga from Brazil and The Mummers from Ireland.
After the parade was over, we followed the crowds into Jardim de Belém discovering dozens of stands showcasing local products such as wine, cheese, chocolates and handicrafts. Grabbing a beer and a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich, we acquired seats at a picnic table and enjoyed our dinner in the late afternoon sunshine while local performers entertained us on the nearby stage.
