Monuments, Museums and Masks

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Beautiful Belém.

Not the city located in Brazil, but the alluring coastal district west of Lisbon.

Only getting to spend a short twenty-four hours in a city you’ve never been to can really boggle your mind when trying to decide which sights are more important than others.  There was so much to do and see within the city limits of Lisbon and then, there was Belém…what’s a girl to do?

Belém, long associated with seafaring and early Portuguese explorers, is known for the many historic monuments that commemorate this past history.  Though most recommend Belém for a full or half-day excursion, we decided to tackle it in a few hours for a quick overview.

There are many iconic and important attractions located in Belém and time was of the essence.  Jerónimos Monastery was high on my list, but since it was near the monastery’s closing time, we decided to have our Uber driver deposit us near the water’s edge.

Our first stop, the beautiful Torre de Belém.  Sitting in the middle of the water, on a small island, it is accessible by bridge.  Built in the 16th century, this fortified tower was once a part of the defense system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was commissioned by King John II and is composed of a bastion and a four story tower built in the Portuguese Manueline style.

As I took picture after picture, I realized that this beautiful structure reminded me of a sandcastle still standing even after the tide has surrounded it.  Though I would have liked to tour the tower, it was getting late, there was a line and my travel partners were not interested in waiting.  Reluctantly, I walked away to discover the other monuments in the area, knowing that I would have to make this a priority when I returned.

The next monument along the shore was the Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar.  Similar to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this monument pays tribute to those who fought in the Portuguese War in Africa, from 1961-1974.  Both striking and somber, the monument, designed by artists Carlos Guerrero and Batista Barros, is comprised of three distinctive sections…the flame, the monument and the memorial wall.  While the flame burns eternally, you can take note of over 9,000 names of the fallen inscribed alphabetically and by year on the marble wall behind it.  Standing in the shallow pool, are two large angled pillars jutting out above the flame.

A small chapel is located inside in the monument and there is a museum adjacent which focuses on Portuguese Overseas Wars, the modern Portuguese military and World War I objects.  There is also a tomb of an unknown soldier from this war, brought from Guinea-Bissau.

Walking back past the Torre de Belém, the Museu de Art Popular and the Belém Lighthouse, we headed toward Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries).

The monument, erected in 1960, celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries when Porgual dominated the sea trade between the continents.  Observing a design originally conceived by Jose Angelo Cottineli Telmo and then Antonio Pardal Monteiro, the structure was adorned with thirty-four sculptures by Leopoldo de Almeida, including Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan.  The main statue of Henry the Navigator, as well as the others, represent those who have contributed to Portugal’s reputation in the age of discoveries;  poets, explorers, navigators, crusaders and mapmakers.

 

Though we did not enter the structure, we were informed that it is divided into three levels.  The ground floor covers the history of Lisbon, the second has two exhibition halls and four other rooms on the third floor.  The top of the monument is accessible and used as a watchtower.

As we stood before this prodigious structure, the sound of beating drums nearby caught our attention.  Walking across Avenue Brasilia toward the Jerónimos Monastery, we encountered a parade circling the Jardim de Belém.  Costumed groups, faces hidden by masks, marched to the music, dancing and occasionally stopping to pose with and sometimes frighten observers.  As intrigued and entertained as we were by the parade, we weren’t sure what it was all about.  After making a few inquiries, we were informed that this was the famous International Iberian Mask Festival, held every year in May!

The festival’s main idea is to bring together the entire peninsula and increase the awareness of its unique culture and traditions, especially with the incorporation of the pagan masks which are common in the Spanish and Portuguese cultures.  Besides the regional groups participating, this year’s parade included Boi Tinga from Brazil and The Mummers from Ireland.

After the parade was over, we followed the crowds into Jardim de Belém discovering dozens of stands showcasing local products such as wine, cheese, chocolates and handicrafts.  Grabbing a beer and a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich, we acquired seats at a picnic table and enjoyed our dinner in the late afternoon sunshine while local performers entertained us on the nearby stage.

Finally, our eyelids growing heavy from the late hour, it was time to grab a souvenir mask and finally an Uber and head home.

Belém…what a blast!

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Torre Belém

  • http://www.torrebelem.gov.pt/en/
  • Address:  Av. Brasília, 1400-038 Lisboa, Portugal
  • Hours:  October-May, 1000-1730, May-September, 1000-1800.  Closed Mondays, January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, June 13 and December 25.
  • Admission:  €6.00
  • Getting There:  City bus lines, 727, 28, 729, 714, 751.  Tram, 15.  Suburban train, Belém Station.  Ferry, Belém Ferry Station.

Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar and Museu do Combatente  

Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries)

  • http://www.padraodosdescobrimentos.pt/en/
  • Address:  Av. Brasília 1400-038 Lisboa
  • Hours:  March-September, 1000-1900.  October-February, 1000-1800.  Closed Monday from October until March and December 25, January 1 and May 1.
  • Admission:  Adults, €5.00, Family (2 adults, 2 childrenm 12-18 yrs), €12.50, Seniors and children under 12 years, €2.50.
  • Getting There:  Train, Belem Station.  Tram, 15.  Bus, 728 – 714 – 727 – 729 – 751

 

 

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