Category: Good Eating

The Middle of the City

© 2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ecuador.

The city of Quito received the prestigious honor in 1978.

Notorious for it equatorial crossing, Quito is known as the Middle of the World. It’s famous Old Town, which helped to earn its UNESCO World Heritage status, can be found in the middle of the city.

Founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city, the capital of Ecuador is one of the best preserved and least altered historic centers in Latin America. The city’s chief attraction is its Old Town, el Centro Historico, and its ample array of churches, monasteries and convents which date back to the beginnings of the colony. The Old Town spans a relatively small area, so it is quite easy to cover the distance in a day. Trying to decide what to see within that area is the most difficult part.

The best way to begin the exploration of Quito is in the Plaza de la Independencia, the city’s main square. Since the Basilica had taken up our entire morning, we would officially begin our tour the Old Town here.

Also known to the locals as Plaza Grande, the square is a part of the city’s rich history and a place where they go to chat, relax, play, eat and sometimes, get their shoes polished! It is surrounded by some of the most beautiful buildings in the city, including the Governor’s Palace (Palacio de Gobierno), the home and office of the Ecuadorian president, the Metropolitan Cathedral (Cathedral Metropolitana) and a centralized fountain surrounded by well manicured gardens.

Deciding to have a bite to eat before beginning our explorations we wandered into the Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop’s Palace), a beautiful manor located along the north side of the plaza, which is the official residence of the Archbishop of Quito. In its three cobblestone courtyards, there is a multitude of shops and eateries. In this mall, we found Cafe del Fraile situated on the second floor, extending onto the ornate wooden balconies.

The food and service were equally as good as the scenery, both inside the restaurant and out. Seated on the balcony, we had an excellent view of the courtyard below and of some of the beautiful religious artwork that decorated it. So mesmerized by the theological pieces, I had to take a walk throughout all of the rooms, to make sure I didn’t miss anything!

After our meal was complete, we proceeded into the plaza. We found that the police had completely surrounded the square with tall wire fencing and would only let us out onto Venezuela Street. Not sure what was happening, our question was answered a short time later when a band of protesters came marching down the street, carrying signs and bullhorns. Deciding to cross over to the other side of the square on another street, we headed to the Church of La Compañía de Jesus (The Church of the Society of Jesus).

After paying our admission, I inquired as to whether photos were allowed. Not surprisingly, I was told no, as is the norm in many of the churches in Ecuador. Of course, after beginning our tour of the church, I was so enthralled with the sheer artistry of the interior, that I had to try and capture as much as I could without being seen.

Built over a span of 160 years, this church is known as the most beautiful church in the city and possibly all of Ecuador. Its gold leaf interior, elaborate design and traditional architecture are some of the most captivating I have ever witnessed.

Moving on, we headed to the El Museo Camilo Egas…well, not really headed. As we were walking by, we were invited in by the security guard. Not sure of what we were going in to see, we just decided to go with it.

This museum is dedicated to one of the great modern Ecuadorian artists of the twentieth century, Camilo Egas. This exhibition showed the different stages of his work during his lifetime (1898-1962) and is housed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion.

As we walked along in the city, we enjoyed the handsome architecture…some buildings in better condition than others. The thing we enjoyed the most, however, was the people, most going about their daily activities and those practicing their traditional trades…the hatters, shoemakers and food vendors.

It was pretty easy to navigate the city using Google Maps on my Iphone, however, people often relate that making their way around the Old Town can be quite confusing. Noticing different types of signs, we learned that many streets have two different names…the official name on green plaques and the historical name painted on ceramic tiles. Most streets in the immediate Old Town area, however, have been laid in a grid-like fashion, from north to south, so getting around the center is fairly easy.

Heading in the direction of Panecillo Hill, we had decided to make our way to Calle La Ronda, the local nightlife area, when we were stopped by the police. Apparently we stuck out like the tourists that we were and they wanted to make sure that we were cautious if we were heading toward Calle La Ronda, an area sometimes known for pickpockets and thieves. A lively area in the evenings, we had thought to check it out during the day in the event that we decided to head there for dinner later that evening.

Though the walk was uneventful, heading down off of the overpass to access Calle de la Ronda, seemed a little sketchy. Once we were on the street, however, we found it to be quiet and lined with many historic buildings. It was interesting to find out that in the past, men would serenade the women on the balconies. If they sung well, they were invited to come in and meet the family and the woman. For those that could not carry a tune? They were only met with a bucket of water to their head!

Music still plays a big part on the mile-long stretch of the pedestrian street. During the evenings, especially on Friday and Saturday, the music is cranked up and you can find many restaurants cooking up Ecuadorian specialties and vendors selling handicrafts. We did head there later that evening, but found the loud music to be quite overwhelming and chose a quieter restaurant at the far end of the street.

Swinging by the Plaza Santo Domingo, I had hoped to be able to enter the church, however we found it to be closed. Inquiring with some of the vendors, I was told it would be open later in the day. Knowing our afternoon was coming to a close, I admired the uncrowded plaza which lent to some beautiful photos and we moved on. Later that evening, when we departed Calle La Ronda, we were able to observe the Church of Santo Domingo lit up beautifully and how crowded the square had become. If street performers is your thing, this is the place to go!

Continuing on our walk through Old Town, we decided to visit the Museo del Carmen Alto which is situated on the location where Saint Mariana of Jesus (Quito’s patron saint) lived and died. (Read more about it in a future post)

Nearing Plaza Independencia, we found that the police had removed the barricades and the square was back to its normal everyday routine. Though my husband was growing tired of visiting churches and desperately wanted to grab a seat and have a beer, I persuaded him to make one last push.

The Metropolitan Cathedral situated on the southern side of the plaza was a place that I had really wanted to visit and it did not disappoint. Though it is not as extravagant from the exterior, the interior has some amazing treasures. (You can read more about in in a future post)

So that was it! SO much to do in Quito’s old town and we had only made a dent. We were spending the next day traveling out to Otavalo and its sprawling market, so seeing the rest of Quito’s treasures would have to wait until a future visit.

When spending time in Quito, there is so much more to see…the Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño and its waxworks, the Casa de María Augusta Urrutia or the Casa de Sucre, to get a glimpse inside the best preserved Old Town houses and the Governor’s Palace (tours leave every 20 minutes starting at 0900). And for the church lovers like me, there are countless sanctuaries throughout the city, many within Old Town, including Plaza de San Francisco and its baroque church, Basilica of our Lady of the Merced, The Church of El Sagrario, Carmen Bajo, Church of San Agustin, Santa Catalina de Sienna Church and Convent, Church of San Blas, El Belén, The Guápulo Church and Convent.

I really must go back!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

El Museo Camilo Egas

  • Address: Venezuela 1302, Quito, Pichincha
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday-Sunday, 1000-1600
  • Admission: $1.00

Cafe Del Fraile

  • http://cafedelfraile.com/
  • Address: Chile Oe 4-22, Venezuela, Palacio, Arzobispal Mall, Quito, Pinchincha 170150
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1100, Sunday, 1000-0900

Plaza de la Independencia

  • Address: Garcia Moreno St. and Chile St., Venezuela, Quito, 170401, Ecuador
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Church of the Jesuits

Museo del Carmen Alto

  • http://www.museocarmenalto.gob.ec/
  • Address: Garcia Moreno y Rocafuerte, Junto al Arco de la Reina, Quito, Pinchincha 17015
  • Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 0930-1730, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $3.00, Children, $1.00

Museo Catedral Primada de Quito

  • http://www.catedraldequito.org/
  • Address: Venezuela y Espejo 715, Quito 
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700
  • Admission: National Tourists, Adults, $2.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $1.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $4.00. Foreign Tourists, Adults, $3.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $2.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $6.00.

Saigon Street Food

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Having just arrived in Ho Chi Minh City, I was quite hungry and knew that it would be a long afternoon touring the Cu Chi tunnels.

With the front desk’s instructions, I walked out of my hotel, turned left and a convenient block and a half later was at the Ben Thanh Street Food Market.  Not sure where I was being sent, I was surprised to see a modern, covered area with a large selection of food and drink stalls and seating areas both in the front and the back.

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Not having much time to browse the different venues, I chose a Thai place in the front, vowing to come back at another time.

The food was made to order, very tasty and did the trick to alleviate my gnawing hunger.

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Noticing a stage in the front of the premises, I assumed correctly that live music is performed here on occasion.  Later that night, passing by while returning from dinner, I stopped in for a minute to enjoy a performance.  If you are seeking a drink while enjoying the music, they also sell beer!

On my last day, another traveler that I met in the hotel, recommended a stall in the back of the establishment, run by a mother and daughter, which served Vietnamese crepes.  That evening, before preparing to leave Ho Chi Minh City, I stopped in for dinner and was not disappointed.

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Although, it did not quite fit the description of real street food, I loved the conveniece and selection that it offered.  If you are looking for something quick, different, don’t have time to sit in a restaurant and refuse to eat McDonald’s, try the Street Food Market!

For more pictures of my travels in Vietnam, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ben Thanh Street Food Market

Last Hurrah in Hoi An

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

So much to do, so little time.

After arriving back in Hoi An and my harrowing motorbike ride from My Son, I needed a little refreshing.   A quick dip in the beautiful infinity edge pool at the Ha An Hotel dip the trick!

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imageNot quite sure what I wanted to do for the rest of the day, I grabbed a bike from the hotel and started to head back into town.  As I approached the market, instead of heading straight, I quickly made a left and crossed the bridge to Cam Nam Island.  Having no plan, I rode around the small island, enjoying the views of the river and the warm, sunny day.  There are many hotels and homestays on the island and if you want to get away from the main drag, this is a peaceful alternative.

Back on the main street of Hoi An, I rode along the waterfront and finally parked my bicycle near the Japanese Bridge.  Purchasing another ticket for Old Town, I decided to visit some of the other attractions that I had not seen on my first day.

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Walking back and forth on Nguyen Tan Hoc Street, it took me a few minutes to locate the Old House of Tan Ky as it blends into the architecture of the adjacent shops and restaurants.

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Constructed almost two centuries ago as the home of a Vietnamese merchant, the home sits between Nguyen Tan Hoc and Bach Dang Streets and combines three different types of architecture, Chinese (curved roof beams), Japanese (peaked roof) and Vietnamese (crosshatch).

imageThe interior has been preserved with the original design and furniture and contains many relics of the prospering trade and cultural exchanges between the Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese during the late 17th century.  The four rooms in the Old House of Tan Ky are rather small and were designed for different purposes;  welcoming the merchants, living, courtyard and sleeping.  All rooms can be visited except the bedroom.

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22451672869_a2d4c51f3d_bAfter leaving Tan Ky, I noticed a restaurant with a familiar name across the street, Morning Glory.  How convenient!  This was one of the restaurants that was recommended to me by a friend and one that I had planned on dining at while in Hoi An.  Speaking with the hostess, I made reservations for that evening.

Moving on, I made my way up Chau Thuong Van Street to one of the most historical buildings in Hoi An, Hoi Quan Quang Dong, the Cantonese Assembly Hall.

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Greeted by its colorful stone, three-entrance gate and four rows of stone pillars, four Chinese characters, meaning “Quant Trieu Assembly Hall” are embossed on the upper part of the gate.  The gate is decorated with images of dragons, small lions and lemon flowers.

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Built in 1885 by the Chinese, it was originally dedicated to Thien Hau Holy Mother, then to Quan Cong (Chinese general) and then to the sages who came from Guangdong.  Used by Chinese fishermen and traders as a place to rest temporarily and exchange goods, the building was constructed by Chinese Cantonese merchants with parts of the building made separately in China and transported to Vietnam.

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The Assembly Hall, very popular with tourists, displays an amazing dragon fountain made from pottery and many Cantonese statues throughout the complex.  Well kept, but small, the walls are adorned with colorful paintings of sages and deities.  Walking through the complex, make sure to not miss the rear portion, where a larger dragon fountain, garden and mural of Chinese mythology are located.

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My next stop was another old structure, built in 1850.  The Duc An House was a successful bookshop famous for selling Vietnamese and Chinese texts and works of foreign political thinkers like Rousseau and Voltaire.  The house then became a Chinese medicine dispensary in the twentieth century.  Later still, it became the center of anti-French activity.  One of the previous residents, Cao Hong Hanh was decorated by the Communist government and there are many images displayed from his revolutionary past and visits from Communist Party dignitaries.

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Though small, Duc An House, still retains its historic feel with its many antiques.  An additional bonus is that the owner, Phan Ngoc Tram, a direct descendant of the founding family, does not allow souvenirs to be sold within the structure, a common practice in some of the other historical houses in Hoi An.

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Relinquishing another of my Old Town tickets to cross the Japanese bridge, since I did not feel like walking the long way around, I made my way to the other side to the Phung Hung Old House.

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1-phung-hung-old-house-hoi-anGreeted in the front room by one of the guides, I was escorted to the next room where I was seated in the two story room and given a history of the building. Built over 100 years ago, during Hoi An’s prosperous times, the dark structure is one of the most beautiful forms of architecture in Hoi An.  Named by the first owner, a Vietnamese businessman, a seller of cinnamon, pepper, salt, silk, ceramics and glass, it stands for the saying “Business expectation is always thriving”.

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 The house combines three architecture styles, Vietnamese (grillage systems, crossbeams, spars, facade roof and backside), Chinese (balcony and door system) and Japanese (nave roof).  It has a high wooden attic and wide corridors.

At the rear of the bottom floor, the guide showed me many samples of embroidery produced here.  You can purchase brightly colored tablecloths and napkins before ascending the stairs to the top floor.  The upper floor contains many antiques and relics.  Take a moment to step out onto the balcony for a unique view of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street and the adjacent Japanese Bridge.

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As my day was drawing to a close, I made my way back to the Ha An Hotel.  After preparing for dinner, I then retraced my steps to Old Town, sitting for a while at one of the many establishments facing the river to enjoy a cold Larue beer and the passing scenery.

Arriving at Morning Glory for my reservation, I was seated quickly.  The restaurant was filled with patrons, the staff quite busy running from table to table and the chefs at work in the open kitchen in the middle of the restaurant.

The menu was mind boggling as everything sounded quite delicious and the smells coming from all around me were divine.  Asking for advice from my server, I finally decided on Roll-It Barbecued Pork with Rice Paper as an appetizer and the My Quang Noodles with Seafood.  The food was fabulous and not very expensive..about ten dollars, including my drink.

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Making my way onto the lantern-lit street, I took a look around me at the beauty of Hoi An.  Never did I expect to love a place so much as this.  It encompassed everything that I find fascinating;  architecture, history, culture, the beach, photographic opportunities.  Why had I never heard of this magnificent place before?  Now I had the secret.  I would be departing in the morning for Hue, another historical city, but leaving my heart here.

Hoi An…I will be back.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Old House of Tan Ky

Hoi Quan Quang Dong (Cantonese Assembly Hall)

Duc An House

Phung Hung House

  • Address:  4 Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai, Cẩm Phô, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
  • Hours:  0830-1700
  • Admission:  included with the Old Town ticket

Morning Glory

 

Hello Hoi An!

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Ever been in a taxi and wondering if your taxi driver actually knows where he is taking you?  Many people can say, “Yes, of course!”

It was quite early when I said goodbye to the Tu Linh Hotel and headed back to Noi Bai International Airport.  I was excited to start the next chapter of my Vietnam travels and my destination was Hoi An.

Turning out of the Old Quarter, I rested my head on my seat and watched the heavy morning traffic outside my window.  Suddenly, the taxi driver turned to me and asked a question in Vietnamese.  He lifted a paper and pointed to the words Noi Bai International Airport.  Guessing that he was asking me if that was where we were going, I was a little perplexed as I knew the hotel had given him instructions to take me to the airport.  After a few more exchanges, I realized that he was asking me if I was traveling international or domestic and I stated Da Nang.  Realizing that he still was confused, it dawned on me that maybe there were two airports.  Oh no!  What if he takes me to the wrong one?

A call to the Tu Linh Hotel finally straightened things out.  He only wanted to make sure that I was going to the domestic terminal and soon deposited me there safely.

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Soaring through the skies on Jetstar Airways, I arrived a short time later into Da Nang International Airport.  Thankfully, my driver was waiting for me this time…front and center…and after a rather uneventful drive, we were arriving in Hoi An.

“The cutest hotel I have ever stayed at in the entire world”.  This was how my friend had described the Ha An Hotel.  Coming from a flight attendant, that is the highest of praise and I knew that there was no other place to stay!  Well, he was right!  Truly one of the most charming places I have ever seen, I was elated that I had taken his advice. I was ushered to the restaurant where I was served fresh fruit and a frosty drink.  The receptionist, sat with me, going over the hotel’s amenities and then informed me that my room was ready.

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img_9322Walking into my room, I was flabbergasted!  I had been upgraded to one of the rooms opening onto the lush courtyard.  My room was spacious and extremely well appointed with a large comfortable-looking bed.  The bathroom had an open shower with river rock and a marble counter.  Wow! Wow! Wow!  The thought that ran through my head at that moment was that I was going stay here forever!  Oh, well…at least for another couple of nights!

Opening my plantation doors, I peered out into the courtyard.  There was a pool table just outside my door and an infinity edge swimming pool in the far corner.  The area was beautifully landscaped and the entire hotel complex’s appearance had the feel of an old Caribbean plantation.

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As much as I wanted to languish in this exquisiteness, I was anxious to explore the town.  Following my map, I headed out of my hotel’s gates and headed toward the Old Town.

Hoi An’s Old Town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 and is a well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port as would have been experienced during the 15th to 19th centuries.  There are 1,107 original timber frame buildings and the center of town is restricted to pedestrians, motorcycles and bicycles.

imageAn entrance ticket is actually required to enter the Old Town, however, the ticket is rarely checked except when entering one of the buildings or points of interest that it is required for.  It took a few minutes to locate one of the ticket booths, but I soon had a ticket in hand and was anxious to explore the many historic landmarks.

The ticket is valid for 24 hours and allows (with tear-off coupons) entrance to five attractions.  Trying to decipher which of the attractions I was going to visit first, was a bit of a task and I decided to start with the closest.

imageRight around the corner, on Tran Phu Street, was the To Do Tham Quan Pagoda.  Entering through the brick front entrance arch, I noticed the Chinese characters that represent the deity to whom the temple is dedicated on each side of the doorway.  The central courtyard contained a censer and the temple displayed many Chinese offerings of fruit, cookies and incense near the gold leafed altar.  There were many interesting statues and carvings (some protected by glass) and the space was lighted by many large lanterns. The best part about this interesting pagoda was that I didn’t have to use one of my Old Town tickets…it was free to visit.

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imageWithout having to check my map, I moved on to the nearby Minh Huong Communal House, with its bright yellow entrance arch, also on Tran Phu and included in the list of the historical attractions with ticket access.  Minh Huong was built by Chinese settlers in the late 18th century to worship their ancestors who had founded the Minh Huong village.  Deities worshiped here are Thien Hau Holy Mother, the God of Earth and the God of Fortune.  Every year, seasonal worship rituals and celebrations dedicated to Minh Huong ancestors are held here in the spring and fall.

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img_8392Further down the street, was the Confucian Ong Pagoda, also known as the Quan Cong Temple.  Located on a street corner near the central market, the 17th century pagoda was easy to find and included in the list of historical attractions, thus requiring a ticket.  Dedicated to “Quan Thanh De Quan” (Quan Cong), it was built in 1653 to honor the Chinese general, a prominent figure in the three kingdom era of China.  The interior was very ornate and included two huge wooden statues near the altar which should be inspected…one is the the idol of the protector of Quan Cong and the other is the adopted son of the protector.  The small front hall contains an altar dedicated to Quan Cong’s guards and is flanked by ritual weapons and objects used for processions.img_8399

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Rounding the corner, on my way to the Hoi An Museum, I spotted Chua Ba and dashed inside for some pictures.  Containing some some small altars and a courtyard, it was nice for a quick visit.

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img_8515Moving on, I headed to the Hoi An Museum.  Anxious to learn about the history of Hoi An, I was a bit dismayed to find that some information was not translated into English.  The space has some interesting relics, including bells, a boat and artillery however, it did not feel very welcoming or well displayed.  The museum also does not have air conditioning and it was extremely difficult to move throughout the space without searching for a fan to cool off.  The admission was included in the Old Town ticket, however, it is one that I would skip on a future visit.

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img_8524In search of the Japanese Covered Bridge, I came upon the Thong Bao Temple.  With free admission, I decided to take a few minutes to inspect the premises.  When entering, I was greeted by a large open courtyard with a multitude of statues on the right side of the property.  A sign at the entrance, gives many instructions, including standing three meters away from these statues, not pointing at the statues or crossing your arms behind your back when standing in front of the statues.  The main building is a large impressive structure with beautiful tile work and ornate columns.  If in the area, this temple is certainly worth a look.

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img_5963Back to my mission, I headed down Nhi Trung Street towards the Japanese Covered Bridge, the most famous tourist destination and the official symbol of Hoi An.  There were many visitors both near and on the bridge.  The structure was built in the early seventeenth century by the community of Hoi An to create a link with the Chinese quarters across the stream and is a beautiful and unique example of the Japanese architecture of the period.  The bridge was constructed with a roof for protection from the sun and rain and contains three Chinese characters above the door, “Lai Ven Kieu” which means “Bridge for passengers by from Afar”.  The two sculptures at one end of the bridge, dog and monkey, are sacred symbols in the Japanese cultures.  After paying with my admission ticket, I only expected to use the bridge to cross to the other side.  Inside, however, I found a small temple which is dedicated to the northern God, Tran Vo Bac De, the God of Weather.  Later, I was informed that crossing the bridge was free, and you only had to pay with an admission ticket if intending to visit the temple, however, attendants were stationed at the entrance of the bridge and demanded a ticket upon entry.

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imageAfter crossing the Japanese Covered Bridge, I continued on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and reached the Cam Pho Communal House.  It was nearing the end of the day and there were no other visitors as I entered.  Greeted with a bright yellow entrance arch and tall yellow vases and an altar in the central courtyard, I found it to be very similar to the Minh Huong Communal House, including a vestibule, left hall, right hall and main hall.  What I loved most were the ridge and gable ornamentation.

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img_8150After leaving Cam Pho Communal House, I proceeded to walk to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and make my way toward the waterfront.  Walking along the far side of the Thu Bon river, I marveled at the many sculptures, choices of restaurants and hotels and the boats being paddled by local women along the river.  Crossing the Hoi An Bridge, and scanning the many restaurants here along the waterfront that were just starting to light up, I realized that my stomach was starting to rumble.  Time for dinner!
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img_7564img_7566After freshening up and enjoying a beer on my patio, I realized that with all of the activities I had packed into the day, I was extremely tired.  Deciding to look for something close to my hotel, I happened upon the White Lotus.  After a delicious meal of seafood filled won tons and shrimp and yellow noodles, I discovered that this delectable restaurant not only serves wonderful food, but it also a non-profit helping those less fortunate.  Owned by Project Indochina, an Australian non government aid organization, the profits made by White Lotus are used to fund aid programs that improve of the quality of life of disadvantaged children, their families and communities in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.
 Making my way back across the street to my hotel, I was happy (as were my feet) that I did not have to travel very far.  Ready for sleep, I settled in, not sure what the next day would bring.  No plans…I was ready for anything…for my second day in Hoi An.
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Jetstar Airways
  • http://www.jetstar.com/us/en/home

Ha An Hotel

 Hoi An Old Town
  • https://www.travelfish.org/sight_profile/vietnam/central_vietnam/quang_nam/hoi_an/729
  • Admission ticket:  120,000 Vietnamese dong (about US $6.00)
  • The full list of sights included on the ticket is:
    Old houses: Tan Ky; Duc An; Quan Thang; Phung Hung;
    Assembly halls: Quang Trieu; Trieu Chau; Phuc Kien;
    Structures: Japanese Covered Bridge;
    Museums: Museum of Trade Ceramics; Museum of Sa Huynh Culture; Museum of Folk Culture; Museum of Hoi An;
    Traditional arts: Handicraft workshop; traditional music performance;
    Communal houses: Cam Pho; Minh Huong; Quan Cong Temple;
To Do Tham Quan Pagoda
  • Address:  Tran Phu, Hoi An, Vietnam
  • Admission:  free
  • Open daily, all year long
Minh Huong Communal House

Quan Cong Temple (Ong Pagoda)

Chua Ba Temple

  • Admission:  free
  • Open daily, all year long

Hoi An Museum

  • https://hoianheritage.net/
  • Address:  10B Trần Hưng Đạo, Sơn Phong, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
  • Admission:  included with the Old Town ticket
  • Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Thong Bao Temple

  • Address:  Nhi Trung Street
  • Admission:  free
  • Open daily, all year long

Japanese Covered Bridge

Cam Pho Communal House

  • Address:  Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An, Vietnam
  • Admission:  included with the Old Town ticket
  • Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

White Lotus Restaurant

Heading to Hanoi!

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

After a few frantic weeks of planning and stressing, I had finally made it to Vietnam..all by myself.  I must admit, as adventuresome as I am, I was a bit nervous about being alone in a country that I knew virtually nothing about.

Getting to Vietnam is not an easy feat. An extremely long trip, most treks from the United States involve stops in other cities…Hong Kong, Taipei, Seoul, Manila…before continuing to Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi.  My exhausting, five-flight journey, beginning in Richmond, Virginia, would take me to Atlanta, Seattle, Narita, Bangkok and finally, Hanoi and encompass four days!

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Early on in my travels…still looking fresh!

Once I had arrived in Bangkok, I set about to book my flight for the next day.  Being that I preferred to leave for my return through Singapore, I desired to work my way from north to south, thus ending in Ho Chi Minh City, a closer (and cheaper) flight to Singapore.

Bangkok has two airports, Suvarnabhumi (or the Bangkok International Airport) and Don Mueang International Airport.  Both offer flights to Vietnam, but since I had just arrived into and was staying overnight near Suvarnabhumi, I opted to fly from there to Hanoi.

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Bangkok International Airport

Shortly after the noon hour, I was on my way.  Just under two hours later, we were pulling into Noi Bai International Airport.

Having arranged transportation to my hotel, I walked quickly, visa approval letter and forms in hand, to the immigration area to secure my visa.  Second in line, I handed everything over to the official and was instructed to take a seat and wait for my name to be called.  Carefully, I counted out twenty-five dollars to hand over for the visa stamp fee and five minutes later, my name and picture appeared on the large monitor over the counter.  Walking up to the desk, I was handed my passport with my new visa pasted in securely and instructed to pay one hundred and thirty five dollars!  Thinking there was a mistake and given a multi-entry visa instead, I let the official know that I had only required the single entry tourist visa.  Big shocker!  The U.S. and Vietnam have changed the visa procedure, effective August 2016, to a one year, multi entry type with a stamp fee of $135 for all visitors…and somehow, I had missed this information.  Well, this was a big blow to my $100 per day allowance!

Trying not to let it get me down, I pulled out the additional $110 and reluctantly handed it over.  Safely putting away my passport, I proceeded through immigration, collected my suitcase and exited to the arrivals hall.

Looking for my driver, was the next hurdle.  It didn’t seem as though any of the people awaiting passengers with pre-arranged pickup were extremely interesting in them seeing their names on the signs they were supposed to be holding up.  Walking among them, bending over and trying to read signs that were folded over while they sat  looking at their phones, I began to panic a little as nothing I saw contained my name.  Another two rounds among them and I was now sure that my name was not on one of those signs, and, not seeing any phone companies in this area where I could purchase a sim card to make a call, left me wondering what to do.  Thankfully, I was able to log into the airport WiFi and use Skype to call my hotel.  At the moment that I informed the front desk that my transportation had not arrived, he magically appeared in front of me. Whew! A few moments later, we were on our way in air conditioned comfort to the Tu Linh hotel.

Unfortunately, I had allowed my driver to put my carry-on bag in the trunk which contained my DSLR camera.  As we traveled to the city center, there were so many sights that I was unaccustomed to seeing and I wanted to capture them all.  Using my Iphone,  I was able to get a few, though not of the quality that I would have preferred.

After a forty-five minute ride, we began driving through the narrow, congested streets of the Old Quarter.  People were everywhere on sidewalks…eating, cooking, squatting.  Motorcycles, cars and bikes fought for space as they passed though the area.

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My hotel was like all of the buildings in the area…narrow and tall, as at one time, buildings attempted to minimize taxes because each property was taxed according to the width of the street-facing facade.

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imageGreeted by a friendly young woman, I was given my key and helped to my room by the bellman.  Small, but clean, my bed filled the space but my room had everything that I needed, a refrigerator, large television, safety deposit box, hairdryer and hot water.

Since I had only booked my room for one night, I headed downstairs to inquire about trips to Ha Long Bay, which I was hoping to book for the next day.  At this point, I was still on the fence about the overnight trip.  Although it had been highly recommended to me, others had written about not settling for the cheaper cruises and because I was a solo traveler, I was also subject to a higher rate for occupying a double cabin.  Additionally, I was concerned about being an individual on a boat with couples and whether or not it would be an awkward situation, especially during the downtime in the evening.   Perusing the many books that were given to me by the front desk attendant, I found it extremely confusing to mesh the price with the amenities.  Finally, giving up, I headed out to walk around, find a grocery store and check out the area.

My first lesson in the city was how to cross the street.  Basically, there is no right way.  Terrified, it took me about ten minutes to muster the courage to dart between the masses of motorcycles and cars speeding through the streets.  At one point, I stuck close to an old woman, because I was sure that they would never hit her.  You know, they really do respect their elders!  Another challenge was navigating the sidewalks…oh wait, you couldn’t!  Motorcycles were parked everywhere, defeating the purpose of the sidewalk.  Basically, you had to walk along the curb, once again, dodging traffic.  I felt completely drained trying to make my way through the area.

After finding the grocery store and stocking up on diet coke, water, beer and a sim card for my phone, I headed back to my hotel.  Exhausted, I told myself that I would just lie down for a few minutes to regain my composure.  An hour later, I was still there, trying to convince myself that I could just skip dinner and get some rest.  Knowing full well that I would be awake at three a.m. dying of hunger and counting down the hours until breakfast, I forced myself up and out the door in search of nourishment.  But, first, there was that pesky problem…I still had not booked my Ha Long Bay cruise.  Deciding to book another night at the Tu Linh, I gave myself a reprieve and resolved to take a day to explore the city instead.  It would also give me the opportunity to gather a bit more information on the Ha Long Bay cruises.

imageSetting out and walking the three blocks to the street where it was recommended that I eat, I scanned the area for restaurants that appeared to be tourist friendly.  Every single one was packed…with locals.  Turning right, I walked to another street and then left, hoping to see restaurants with western faces.  Finally, I noticed one with other tourists inside.  Opening the door, I was met with a friendly greeting and shown to a table.  Giving my drink order, I was also met with a question, “And one Cha Ca?”  Huh?  “One Cha Ca?”  I glanced down at the menu and realized that that is the only thing they serve.  Okay then.  One Cha Ca for me.

imageReading the description on the menu, I discovered that it is a specialty of the Hanoi people made from mudfish, snakehead fish or Hemibagrus, a type of catfish. The fish bones are removed, it is covered by banana leaves, seasoned and grilled over a coal heat. The Cha Ca must remain hot, so the servers continually come to the table to reheat and reserve. The Cha Ca is served with roasted peanuts, rice noodles, dill, spring onion, coriander, mint, shrimp paste or fish sauce. And boy was it good!

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After looking it up when I returned home, guess what? I just so happened to stumble upon the restaurant in Hanoi that is famous for this dish! Gotta love it when that happens!  So, after all, my long, stressful day ended on a positive.

Finally, wandering back to my little hotel, I began to feel more at ease with the busy streets of Hanoi.  After a good night’s rest, I was sure that I would be ready to tackle the many sights and attractions that this city was willing to offer.

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Hanoi

  • Getting there:  Delta Air Lines flies from Atlanta, Detroit, Minneapolis, Los Angeles, Portland and Seattle to Narita International Airport.  Although flights to Bangkok will be discontinued at the end of October, you can fly to Singapore and connect to Tiger Air, Jetstar and Vietjet Airlines (non-stop) to various cities in Vietnam.  Many other airlines fly from cities in the U.S. making connections  in Seoul, Hong Kong, Manila and Taipei.
  • Where to Stay:  Tu Linh Palace Hotel, 2 Hàng Gà, Hàng Bồ, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam.  This hotel is in the Old Quarter and near the Đồng Xuân Market and the Night Market open on weekend nights.  There are many hotels in the Old Quarter which are extremely tourist friendly.  Try the Agoda app which gives the best prices for hotels in Asia.
  • Where to Eat:  Chả Cá Thăng Long, 21 Đường Thành Cửa Đông Cửa Đông Hoàn Kiếm, Hồ Hoàn

 

 

 

 

 

See Food!

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If you are in Barcelona, near the Sagrada Familia and looking for a quiet, peaceful dining experience…stop reading…STOP READING…this is not the place for you!

A good friend of mine started a great Facebook page, Restaurants and Hotels Around The Globe…helpful to those of us who travel and are looking for fabulous places to eat and stay.  The day before I was to be in Barcelona, she was there on a layover and posted about La Paradeta, a seafood restaurant near Sagreda Familia that she had dined in that evening.  Since I had planned to visit Sagrada Familia on this particular trip, I decided that I would book my ticket in the latter part of the afternoon.  The dinner hour starts very late in Barcelona with many restaurants not opening until 8:00 pm…it would put me in that location at the right time.

Locating Passage Simó on my map, I headed that way around 7:45 pm, thinking that I would be a bit early but would be first in line. This way, I would be able to finish dinner a bit early.  After being up all night, I was quite tired and wanted to get back to my hotel to get some rest!  Hmmm…everyone must have had the same idea!

When I approached the restaurant’s location, I noticed that a line had already formed.  As I took my place at the end (I was number 15), I realized that this place must be quite popular!  A very good sign indeed!

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imageAs the door was unlocked and raised at 8:00 pm, we entered and was confronted with a large, iced counter containing many different types of fresh seafood…lobsters, razor clams, squid, tuna, oysters, cuttlefish, crabs, scallops, crayfish… and each type was priced by the piece, pack or kilo.  It was wonderful to be able to see everything that was offered and to be able to select the exact pieces and amounts that you would like.

After giving my order to the attendant, I was given a number and proceeded to the register where I gave my numbered slip and drink order.  While I paid for my order (€30 for 4 raw oysters, 10 razor clams, tuna steak, salad and a large beer), I was instructed to take a seat and to listen for my number to be called from the adjacent window.

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imageEnjoying my raw oysters while listening for my number, I decided that if you were dining with others and trying to carry on a conversation, it would be quite difficult.  The woman at the window was yelling out table numbers in both Spanish and English, continually, in addition to the loud chatter of the other diners.

“MESA NUMERO SIETE!  Table number seven”.  Oh, good, I could quit concentrating on her heavily accented announcements…my food was ready!

Walking up to the counter, I discovered that only my salad was ready at this time.  She check off the salad from my ticket, gave it back to me along with a huge plate, loaded with lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and olives…definitely enough for two people.

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Relishing my salad and beer, I tried to relax, all the while, training my ear for numero siete.   Finally, my number was called and I returned to my table with a plate filled with razor clams and tuna.  I have to admit, I have never had razor clams, but they were extremely tasty.  The tuna was cooked a bit more than I like but was juicy, tender and delicious.

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Finally, sensing that my table would soon be needed, I carried my tray and plates to the other window as I was instructed to earlier.  Filled and happy, I headed back to my hotel for a much needed night of rest.

If you are looking for a place to relax and have a nice dinner with great conversation, you should look to another of the many fabulous places in Barcelona.  But…if you are looking for freshly prepared and delicious seafood in a busy, raucous environment, this is the place for you!  Affordable and easy to order and pay, the system’s method does help when in a group as everyone can pay for their own bill.  There are six other locations throughout the city…Meridiana, Passeig de Gracia, Paral-lel, Born, Sants and Sitges for your convenience with the Sagrada Familia location being the largest.

Definitely enjoying my meal enough to return on another occasion, my only question left unanswered was, “With so many people constantly in line and at the register, how do you get another beer???”

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La Paradeta Sagrada Familia

  • http://www.laparadeta.com/en/
  • Address:  Passatge Simó 18, 08025 Barcelona
  • Hours:  Monday, closed. Tuesday-Sunday, 1300-1600, Tuesday-Thursday, 2000-2230, Friday-Sunday, 2000-0000
  • How To Get There:  Metro, L2 or L5 lines, Sagrada Familia station

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Czech-ing Out the Sights

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking through the city of Prague, it is easy to be dumbfounded by its beauty.  I have always been almost breathless looking out over the red rooftops and the amazing architecture at every corner, not knowing quite where to point my camera first.

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There are many things to see and do while touring the city.  During my visit with my son, I was anxious to show him some of the quaint attractions that I have grown to love in the city.

Exiting the Prague Castle’s main entrance, we walked through the Castle District (Hradcany) down to the west side of the Charles Bridge.  The first thing on our agenda was the John Lennon Wall.

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Once a regular wall, young Czechs decided to make it their slate for recording grievances during the communist regime of Gustáv Husák.  Eventually, this led to a clash between hundreds of students and police on the nearby Charles Bridge.  The movement these students followed was described ironically as “Lennonism”.

imageJohn Lennon, a hero to the youth, produced songs that praised freedom that did not exist in the communistic country.  Western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities and some musicians were jailed for playing them.  When Lennon was murdered in 1980, his picture was painted on the wall with graffiti defying the authorities.  The threat of prison didn’t stop people from sneaking to the location during the dark of night to inscribe graffiti in the form of Beatles lyrics and odes to Lennon.  Eventually, they returned to write their own feelings and dreams on the wall.

The original portrait of Lennon remains, but buried under many layers of new paint.  At one time, the wall was repainted by authorities, but after a day passed, it was full of poems and flowers.  On November 17, 2014, on the 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, the wall was painted over completely with white paint by a group of art students, leaving only the text, “wall is over” a play on Lennon’s song, “War is Over”.  Today, the wall, owned by the Knights of Malta, changes constantly.  On the day that we were there, people were selling paint and paintbrushes.  Many young tourists were busy decorating portions of the wall between the dozens of other tourists posing for pictures.

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After a couple of quick pics, we moved on.  Our next quick stop was at the Kampa waterwheel near the Lennon Wall.  Always a favorite of mine, I love to stop here and watch the wheel turn in the Certovka river across from a small restaurant, Velkoprevorsky Mlyn.  The restaurant has always been a source of fascination for me with its romantic small balcony hanging out over the river and two small tables.  On impulse, I ran into the restaurant and made a reservation for the following night for my son and I, something I have always desired to do.

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imageWe were now getting a bit hungry…it was time for a snack…Trdelník.  The sweet pastry, made from rolled dough, wrapped around a stick and grilled, then topped with sugar and walnut mix, is something anyone visiting Prague should have…at least once!  There is a great little place on the end of the right side of the Charles Bridge in the Lesser Town.  You can watch the skilled craftsmen roll the dough, wrap it around the round metal forms and bake it on the rotating rollers.

Trdlnik

imageWhile devouring our Trdelnik, we ducked under the bridge and inspected the many “locks of love” that hang from the gates that line the canal.  These locks are padlocks which couples secure to a public object, most often a bridge, to symbolize their love.  Once the lock is fastened, the key is thrown away into the body of water to symbolize their unbreakable love.  Though not as plentiful as what can be found on the Pont des Arts Bridge in Paris, there are many here and it has become quite a problem, as in other cities, as it damages the structure to which it is fastened.

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As we continued our journey through the city, we stopped every so often to admire the many street performers that secure prime spots on street corners and in the Old Town Square.  While everyone loves a good musician, there were some interesting acts that were quite mesmerizing.  I have to admit, it took me a while to understand the floating man!

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Later that evening, we headed toward one of my favorite spots to have a drink…the rooftop terrace at the U Prince hotel.  When you enter the U Prince hotel, inform the hostess that you would like to go up to the terrace and she will direct you to the elevator.  After exiting the elevator, a few more steps will lead you to another hostess who will seat you at the Terasa U Prince.  Expect higher prices than other eateries or bars, but it is most definitely a trade off for the beautiful view of Old Town!

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Finally, to cap off the evening, we grabbed some gelato right outside of the U Prince and decided to watch the Astronomical Clock put on its hourly show one more time!  A great way to end a busy but wonderful day!

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Lennon Wall

  • Address:  Velkopřevorské náměstí, 100 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
  • Admission:  Free
  • Hours:  Open continually
  • How to Get There:  From metro station Malostranska (green line A) take trams no. 12, 20, 22, 23. The nearest tram stops to Velkoprevorske namesti are either Malostranske namesti or Hellichova.

Velkoprevorsky Mlyn Restaurant

Terasa U Prince

  • https://www.terasauprince.com/terrace
  • Address:  Terasa U Prince, Staroměstské náměstí 29, Praha 1, 110 00, Czech Republic
  • Hours:  1100-2330, daily
  • How To Get There:  Old Town, walking from center of square, past the Astrological Clock (on right) towards the river, the Hotel U Prince is on the left.

Astronomical Clock

  • http://www.staromestskaradnicepraha.cz/en/astronomical-clock/
  • Address:  Staroměstské nám. 1, 110 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
  • Hours:  Visit the Tower, Monday, 1100-2200, Tuesday-Sunday, 0900-2200
  • Admission:  Tower, Adults, 130 CZK, Children, ages 6-15, Students under 26, Senior over 65, 80 CZK, Children, ages 4-6, 30 CZK, Family admission (2 adults, 4 children, up to age 15), 280 CZK
  • How To Get There:  Old Town center

 

 

Padua or Padova? How Do You Say It?

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Crowds?  I hate them!

As much as I love experiencing warm weather in Venice, the one thing that keeps me away is the large number of tourists that descend upon the city during the summer months.  Some go to see the beautiful canals and architecture, some for the delectable Italian fare and many go, as it is the starting point for their cruise adventure. No matter what their reason, they crowd the narrow streets and the attractions making it difficult to enjoy the city intimately.  Sometimes, I avoid Venice altogether during June, July and August.  Sometimes, I travel there only during the off-season, coat in hand.  Sometimes I grin and bear it.  Sometimes…I find an escape.

There are many lovely cities near Venice that are easily reached by train or bus.  One such city, Padova, is a quick train ride from the city and a nice respite from the summer madness.

Padova, located about 25 miles west of Venice, claims to be the oldest city in northern Italy.  Standing on the Bacchiglione River, which surrounds the city like a moat, it hosts the University of Padova, founded in 1222, where Galileo Galilei was a lecturer and was the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare’s “The Taming of the Shrew”.

Many are confused by the different spellings of the city’s name, Padova and Padua…simply put, Padova is the Italian spelling and Padua, the English.

An extremely picturesque city, there are many arcaded streets opening into large piazzas and a large number of bridges crossing the Bacchiglione river. Not immense by any means, it is the perfect size to visit on a day trip or to spend a few nights.

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imageThere are many things to see within the city, including the most famous of the churches, the Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova.  Many pilgrims make the trip to Padova every year to visit this historic basilica, which honors St. Anthony, the patron saint of lost and stolen things.  Dating back to 1230, the basilica contains many great works of art as well the bones of St. Anthony and relics of the saint (see my post “Finder of Lost Things and People”).

imageAnother very famous place to visit in Padova is the Scrovegni Chapel.  Called the “Arena Chapel”, because it stands on the site of a Roman-era arena, it houses many remarkable frescoes by Giotto, detailing the life of the Virgin Mary.  These frescoes have been deemed to be of the most important in the world. Commissioned by Enrico degli Scrovegni, a wealthy private banker, it served as a private chapel once attached to his family’s palazzo.  Visiting the chapel is not an easy ordeal, however.  First, tickets must be secured on-line at least 24 hours in advance.  Visitors who have not booked should check entry availability at the Museum ticket office.  Those with tickets should reach the chapel at least five minutes before their allotted time or they will not be admitted.  Only twenty-five people are admitted per visit and must endure spending 15 minutes prior to entrance in a climate-controlled, air-locked vault, used to stabilize the temperature between the outside world and the inside of the chapel as preservation is of the utmost importance.  Visits within the chapel (after air-lock) are only allowed for 15 minutes and no video cameras, cameras, food or drinks are allowed.  Mobile phones must be switched off.  While I was not able to secure tickets for my visit, I did see the Chapel while traveling thru the city.

After your visit to Scrovegni chapel, head next door to the Church of the Eremitaimageni, a 13th century Augustinian church, containing the tombs of Jacopo and Urbertinello da Carrara, lords of Padova.  The church, located next to Nazi headquarters, suffered heavy damage during bombings in World War II and a great portion of the Mantagna’s frescoes within the Ovetari Chapel were destroyed.  Other frescoes by artists Guariento and Ansuino da Forli are preserved in the church.  The municipal art gallery is housed in the old monastery of the church.

image imageWalking south along the tram lines will lead you to the Tomb of Antenor, located at via del Santo and via San Francesco.  Antenor, a Trojan prince, hero and founder of Padova, was believed to have been buried in the city.  A marble arch containing a coffin was found and was proclaimed to be the precious remains of Antenor.  In 1985, however, examination of the bone fragments proved that the remains were could not be dated back to the time period as first believed.  The stone sarcophagus still stands in Piazza Antenor and bears an epitaph written in Latin by the Padovan judge Lovato dei Lovati…This sepulchre excavated from marble contains the body of the noble Antenor who left his country, guided the Eneti and Trojans, banished the Euganeans and founded Padua.  The tomb adjacent to Antenor’s belongs to Lovati, although it is known as the tomb of Antenor’s dog, as it bears the bas-relief representing a dog on his tomb.  Opposite the Piazza Antenor, take note of the 15th century Palazzo Sala and the Gothic Palazzo Romanin Jacur which carries an inscription saying that Dante hid there to escape arrest.

imageNearby in the Piazza dei Signori, is the Astrological Clock.  The original clock, built by Jacopo de’Dondi was very advanced and complex for its time and was destroyed either in 1390 or 1399.  A replica now presides over the square, however, studying the clock shows that the among the signs of the Zodiac, the sign of Libra is missing…the crab (Cancer) occupies a double space.  Legend has it that the builder omitted the Libra symbol intentionally due to not being paid adequately, however, another story tells that the original clock’s crab was also missing as a protest by Jacopo for a town suffering injustice from the Carraresi family.  Also notable with the Piazza dei Signori is the beautiful loggia, the Gran Guardia and close by, the Palazzo del Capitaniato, the residence of the Venetian governors.

Caffè Pedrocchi is also just around the corner (see my blog post “The Doorless Cafe”) and was built in 1831.  Called the “doorless cafe” because of its openness, it also earned the name because it was originally open 24 hours a day.  A very historical establishment, it is a great place to grab a bite to eat and a drink.

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imageAnother beautiful architectural specimen, the Palazzo della Ragione, located nearby between two grand squares (the Piazza Delle Erbe and the Piazza Delle Frutta) is known to have the largest roof unsupported by columns in Europe.  The Palazzo, dating back to 1172, stands upon open arches and the upper story is surrounded by an open loggia.  Beneath the great hall, there is a centuries-old market on most days.  The Palazzo can be visited daily except for Mondays.

imageWalking south through the city, you will find yourself at the Prato della Valle, the largest square in Europe (see my blog post “Yes, It’s Big”).  Created by Andrea Memmo in the 18th century, it is lined by 78 statues portraying famous citizens along a small canal with a beautiful green island center, I’Isola Memmia.  Many beautiful Italian buildings surround Il Prati, as it is locally known, such as the Palazzo Angeli and La Loggia Amulea

While visiting Il Prati, a bit of time should be taken the visit the Abbey of Santa Giustina and the adjacent Basilica.  One of the most important monasteries in the area in the 15th century it was eventually suppressed by Napoleon.  Reopened in 1919, the tombs of several saints are housed in the interior, including St. Justine, St. Prosdocimus, St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julianus, as well as relics of the Apostle St. Matthias and the Evangelist St. Luke.

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There are many other things to visit in Padua, depending on one’s tastes and the amount of time you have to devote to the city…the fortified walls and gates of the city, Santa Sofia, Padova’s most ancient church, the church of San Gaetano, the Padua Synagogue, the buildings of Palazzo del Bo, the City Hall (Palazzo Moroni), the Castello, which the main tower was transformed into an astronomical observatory and the many bridges, Ponte San Lorenzo, a Roman bridge largely underground, along with the ancient Ponte Molino, Ponte Altinate, Ponte Corvo and Ponte S. Matteo.

Whatever you decide to see and do in Padova and however you decide to pronounce it, you will appreciate all that it has to offer and its uncrowded easygoing spirit.

Padua map

 

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Padova

  • http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/veneto/padua.html
  • Getting There:   http://www.trenitalia.com/  From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.  From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
  • Getting There:  Padua City Tram  http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf   One ride,  (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70,  Carnet of 9 tickets for €10,  Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00
  • Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova, http://www.santantonio.org/en/basilica Piazza del Santo, 11, 35123 Padova, Italy  Free admission. Weekdays, January 1-March 26, 0620-1845, March 27-October 29, 0620-1945, October 30-December 31, 0620-1845.  Saturdays and Sundays, 0620-1945
  • Scrovegni Chapel, http://www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it/index.php/en/   Address: Piazza Eremitani, 8, 35121 Padova PD, Italy  Admission:  Adults€13.  Hours:  0900-1900, daily.
  • Church of Eremetani, http://www.guidepadova.it/en-GB/Monumenti/Vedi/the-eremitani’s-church  Address:  Piazza Eremitani, 9, 35129 Padova PD, Italy.  Free admission.  Weekdays, 0730-1230 and 1530-1900, Saturdays and Sundays, 0900-1230 and 1600-2000.
  • Tomb of Antenor,  Address:  Piazza Antenore 35121 Padova, Italy
  • Astrological Clock, http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it/musei/astronomical-clock  Piazza dei Signori.  Free entry.  Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.  Maximum 10 persons. Visits start from Piazza Capitaniato 19.   Times: 10:00, 10:30, 11:00, 11:30
  • Caffe Pedrocchi, http://www.caffepedrocchi.it/   Address:  Via VIII Febbraio, 15, 35122 Padova,  Hours:  Bar, Sun-Wed, 0900-2100, Thurs-Sat, 0900-midnight, Historical salon upstairs, daily, 0930-1230 and 1530-2000
  • Palazzo della Ragione,  http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it  Address:  Piazza delle Erbe, 35100 Padova PD, Italy.  Hours: 01Feb-31Oct, 0900-1900, 01Nov-31Jan, 0900-1800, Admission:  Adults, €6.00
  • Prato della Valle, http://www.padovanet.it/informazione/prato-della-valle#.VgQdS60VhBc  Address:  Via Prato della Valle, 35121 Padova PD, Italy
  • Abbey and Basilica of Santa Giustina, http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/  Address:  Via Giuseppe Ferrari, 2A, 35123 Padova PD, Italy  Hours:  Summer weekdays, 0700-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000.  Winter weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000.  Free admission.

The Doorless Cafe

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

How do you combine touring and cocktail hour while in Padova?  Visit the Caffè Pedrocchi, founded in the 18th century, which has seen numerous famous literary, artistic and political figures step through its doors.  It was once known as the largest cafe in Europe and often argued as the most beautiful coffeehouse in the world.

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When you look at Caffè Pedrocchi from the outside, it appears to be more of a palace than coffeehouse with its tall columns and lions gracing the entrance.  The interior consists of three rooms on the main floor, influenced by the colors of the Italian flag…the Red, White and Green rooms.  Nine rooms and a museum featuring 19th century Paduan history compromise the upstairs.  During warmer weather, the doors are opened wide and service is extended to the outside veranda and onto the pedestrian piazza.  Called the “doorless cafe” because of its openness, it also earned the name because it was originally open 24 hours a day.

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Caffè Pedrocchi is widely known for its prize-winning signature drink, made of piping hot espresso topped with a cold mint creme topping, however, other drinks and a light menu is served.

imageSitting in the lovely Red Room, next to the piano, we ordered Aperol Spritzes and beer, a plate of meats and cheeses and Arancini di Ragu, stuffed rice croquettes, recommended by my Sicilian friend, Antonio.  I can not describe how delicious these were!  Other snacks, such as chips, olives and nuts were also brought to accompany our drinks.  Table service is offered, however, drinks can also be ordered from the bar.

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While out seeing the nearby piazzas, make a detour to admire the beauty of this building and stop in for a quick drink. Imagining those who have crossed the threshold of this historic place only adds to the allure of this cafe.  Though a little pricier than many of the nearby establishments, a visit to a Caffè Pedrocchi is a must while in Padua!

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Caffè Pedrocchi

  • http://www.caffepedrocchi.it/
  • Via VIII Febbraio, 15, 35122 Padova
  • Hours:  Bar, Sun-Wed, 0900-2100, Thurs-Sat, 0900-midnight, Historical salon upstairs, daily, 0930-1230 and 1530-2000
  • Getting There:   http://www.trenitalia.com/  From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.  From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
  • Getting There:  Padova Tram-stop Ponti Romani http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf   One ride,  (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70,  Carnet of 9 tickets for €10.00,  Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00
  • Getting There:  Bus #s 3, 8, 12, 16, 18, or 22

Super Schnitzel

© 2016  Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Recently, I sang the praises of the chicken schnitzel at the Eetcafe Mosveld in Amsterdam Noord.  My exact quote was, “It is truly divine and probably the best that I have had outside of Germany”.  Well, if you were curious to know about the best schnitzel inside of Germany…this is a place that serves it!

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The Brauhaus Sur Zonne is a family owned establishment located in Mainz, about a half hour’s journey from the Frankfurt International Airport.    Located on a side street just near the department store, Kaufhof, it’s somewhat unassuming facade hides a fabulous restaurant with a small traditional beer-hall feel.

Many locals and visitors fill the tables and booths nightly to experience the warm and inviting multi-lingual staff and the reasonably priced and delectable (if not extensive) menu.

Every item offered is delicious, especially the Pepper Schnitzel and Mushroom Schnitzel.  Homemade potato wedges and a fresh salad round out the meals and even if you are not a fan of cabbage…like me…ORDER the red cabbage!  Amazing! But…come hungry or order a half portion.  The servings are huge and enough to take some home for your next day’s lunch.

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After your meal, is complete, a lovely complimentary applekorn aperitif is offered.  A fabulous finale to a fantastic feast!

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Brauhaus zur Sonne

  • http://www.brauhauszursonne.de/
  • Address:  Sonnengäßchen 2, 55116 Mainz
  • Hours:  Monday thru Saturday, 11:00 – 23:00, Sundays and Holidays, 17:00-22:00