Padua or Padova? How Do You Say It?

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Crowds?  I hate them!

As much as I love experiencing warm weather in Venice, the one thing that keeps me away is the large number of tourists that descend upon the city during the summer months.  Some go to see the beautiful canals and architecture, some for the delectable Italian fare and many go, as it is the starting point for their cruise adventure. No matter what their reason, they crowd the narrow streets and the attractions making it difficult to enjoy the city intimately.  Sometimes, I avoid Venice altogether during June, July and August.  Sometimes, I travel there only during the off-season, coat in hand.  Sometimes I grin and bear it.  Sometimes…I find an escape.

There are many lovely cities near Venice that are easily reached by train or bus.  One such city, Padova, is a quick train ride from the city and a nice respite from the summer madness.

Padova, located about 25 miles west of Venice, claims to be the oldest city in northern Italy.  Standing on the Bacchiglione River, which surrounds the city like a moat, it hosts the University of Padova, founded in 1222, where Galileo Galilei was a lecturer and was the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare’s “The Taming of the Shrew”.

Many are confused by the different spellings of the city’s name, Padova and Padua…simply put, Padova is the Italian spelling and Padua, the English.

An extremely picturesque city, there are many arcaded streets opening into large piazzas and a large number of bridges crossing the Bacchiglione river. Not immense by any means, it is the perfect size to visit on a day trip or to spend a few nights.

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imageThere are many things to see within the city, including the most famous of the churches, the Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova.  Many pilgrims make the trip to Padova every year to visit this historic basilica, which honors St. Anthony, the patron saint of lost and stolen things.  Dating back to 1230, the basilica contains many great works of art as well the bones of St. Anthony and relics of the saint (see my post “Finder of Lost Things and People”).

imageAnother very famous place to visit in Padova is the Scrovegni Chapel.  Called the “Arena Chapel”, because it stands on the site of a Roman-era arena, it houses many remarkable frescoes by Giotto, detailing the life of the Virgin Mary.  These frescoes have been deemed to be of the most important in the world. Commissioned by Enrico degli Scrovegni, a wealthy private banker, it served as a private chapel once attached to his family’s palazzo.  Visiting the chapel is not an easy ordeal, however.  First, tickets must be secured on-line at least 24 hours in advance.  Visitors who have not booked should check entry availability at the Museum ticket office.  Those with tickets should reach the chapel at least five minutes before their allotted time or they will not be admitted.  Only twenty-five people are admitted per visit and must endure spending 15 minutes prior to entrance in a climate-controlled, air-locked vault, used to stabilize the temperature between the outside world and the inside of the chapel as preservation is of the utmost importance.  Visits within the chapel (after air-lock) are only allowed for 15 minutes and no video cameras, cameras, food or drinks are allowed.  Mobile phones must be switched off.  While I was not able to secure tickets for my visit, I did see the Chapel while traveling thru the city.

After your visit to Scrovegni chapel, head next door to the Church of the Eremitaimageni, a 13th century Augustinian church, containing the tombs of Jacopo and Urbertinello da Carrara, lords of Padova.  The church, located next to Nazi headquarters, suffered heavy damage during bombings in World War II and a great portion of the Mantagna’s frescoes within the Ovetari Chapel were destroyed.  Other frescoes by artists Guariento and Ansuino da Forli are preserved in the church.  The municipal art gallery is housed in the old monastery of the church.

image imageWalking south along the tram lines will lead you to the Tomb of Antenor, located at via del Santo and via San Francesco.  Antenor, a Trojan prince, hero and founder of Padova, was believed to have been buried in the city.  A marble arch containing a coffin was found and was proclaimed to be the precious remains of Antenor.  In 1985, however, examination of the bone fragments proved that the remains were could not be dated back to the time period as first believed.  The stone sarcophagus still stands in Piazza Antenor and bears an epitaph written in Latin by the Padovan judge Lovato dei Lovati…This sepulchre excavated from marble contains the body of the noble Antenor who left his country, guided the Eneti and Trojans, banished the Euganeans and founded Padua.  The tomb adjacent to Antenor’s belongs to Lovati, although it is known as the tomb of Antenor’s dog, as it bears the bas-relief representing a dog on his tomb.  Opposite the Piazza Antenor, take note of the 15th century Palazzo Sala and the Gothic Palazzo Romanin Jacur which carries an inscription saying that Dante hid there to escape arrest.

imageNearby in the Piazza dei Signori, is the Astrological Clock.  The original clock, built by Jacopo de’Dondi was very advanced and complex for its time and was destroyed either in 1390 or 1399.  A replica now presides over the square, however, studying the clock shows that the among the signs of the Zodiac, the sign of Libra is missing…the crab (Cancer) occupies a double space.  Legend has it that the builder omitted the Libra symbol intentionally due to not being paid adequately, however, another story tells that the original clock’s crab was also missing as a protest by Jacopo for a town suffering injustice from the Carraresi family.  Also notable with the Piazza dei Signori is the beautiful loggia, the Gran Guardia and close by, the Palazzo del Capitaniato, the residence of the Venetian governors.

Caffè Pedrocchi is also just around the corner (see my blog post “The Doorless Cafe”) and was built in 1831.  Called the “doorless cafe” because of its openness, it also earned the name because it was originally open 24 hours a day.  A very historical establishment, it is a great place to grab a bite to eat and a drink.

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imageAnother beautiful architectural specimen, the Palazzo della Ragione, located nearby between two grand squares (the Piazza Delle Erbe and the Piazza Delle Frutta) is known to have the largest roof unsupported by columns in Europe.  The Palazzo, dating back to 1172, stands upon open arches and the upper story is surrounded by an open loggia.  Beneath the great hall, there is a centuries-old market on most days.  The Palazzo can be visited daily except for Mondays.

imageWalking south through the city, you will find yourself at the Prato della Valle, the largest square in Europe (see my blog post “Yes, It’s Big”).  Created by Andrea Memmo in the 18th century, it is lined by 78 statues portraying famous citizens along a small canal with a beautiful green island center, I’Isola Memmia.  Many beautiful Italian buildings surround Il Prati, as it is locally known, such as the Palazzo Angeli and La Loggia Amulea

While visiting Il Prati, a bit of time should be taken the visit the Abbey of Santa Giustina and the adjacent Basilica.  One of the most important monasteries in the area in the 15th century it was eventually suppressed by Napoleon.  Reopened in 1919, the tombs of several saints are housed in the interior, including St. Justine, St. Prosdocimus, St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julianus, as well as relics of the Apostle St. Matthias and the Evangelist St. Luke.

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There are many other things to visit in Padua, depending on one’s tastes and the amount of time you have to devote to the city…the fortified walls and gates of the city, Santa Sofia, Padova’s most ancient church, the church of San Gaetano, the Padua Synagogue, the buildings of Palazzo del Bo, the City Hall (Palazzo Moroni), the Castello, which the main tower was transformed into an astronomical observatory and the many bridges, Ponte San Lorenzo, a Roman bridge largely underground, along with the ancient Ponte Molino, Ponte Altinate, Ponte Corvo and Ponte S. Matteo.

Whatever you decide to see and do in Padova and however you decide to pronounce it, you will appreciate all that it has to offer and its uncrowded easygoing spirit.

Padua map

 

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Padova

  • http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/veneto/padua.html
  • Getting There:   http://www.trenitalia.com/  From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.  From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
  • Getting There:  Padua City Tram  http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf   One ride,  (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70,  Carnet of 9 tickets for €10,  Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00
  • Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova, http://www.santantonio.org/en/basilica Piazza del Santo, 11, 35123 Padova, Italy  Free admission. Weekdays, January 1-March 26, 0620-1845, March 27-October 29, 0620-1945, October 30-December 31, 0620-1845.  Saturdays and Sundays, 0620-1945
  • Scrovegni Chapel, http://www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it/index.php/en/   Address: Piazza Eremitani, 8, 35121 Padova PD, Italy  Admission:  Adults€13.  Hours:  0900-1900, daily.
  • Church of Eremetani, http://www.guidepadova.it/en-GB/Monumenti/Vedi/the-eremitani’s-church  Address:  Piazza Eremitani, 9, 35129 Padova PD, Italy.  Free admission.  Weekdays, 0730-1230 and 1530-1900, Saturdays and Sundays, 0900-1230 and 1600-2000.
  • Tomb of Antenor,  Address:  Piazza Antenore 35121 Padova, Italy
  • Astrological Clock, http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it/musei/astronomical-clock  Piazza dei Signori.  Free entry.  Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.  Maximum 10 persons. Visits start from Piazza Capitaniato 19.   Times: 10:00, 10:30, 11:00, 11:30
  • Caffe Pedrocchi, http://www.caffepedrocchi.it/   Address:  Via VIII Febbraio, 15, 35122 Padova,  Hours:  Bar, Sun-Wed, 0900-2100, Thurs-Sat, 0900-midnight, Historical salon upstairs, daily, 0930-1230 and 1530-2000
  • Palazzo della Ragione,  http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it  Address:  Piazza delle Erbe, 35100 Padova PD, Italy.  Hours: 01Feb-31Oct, 0900-1900, 01Nov-31Jan, 0900-1800, Admission:  Adults, €6.00
  • Prato della Valle, http://www.padovanet.it/informazione/prato-della-valle#.VgQdS60VhBc  Address:  Via Prato della Valle, 35121 Padova PD, Italy
  • Abbey and Basilica of Santa Giustina, http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/  Address:  Via Giuseppe Ferrari, 2A, 35123 Padova PD, Italy  Hours:  Summer weekdays, 0700-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000.  Winter weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000.  Free admission.

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