padua – Snapping The Globe

Padua or Padova? How Do You Say It?

Crowds? I hate them!

As much as I love experiencing warm weather in Venice, the one thing that keeps me away is the large number of tourists that descend upon the city during the summer months. Some go to see the beautiful canals and architecture, some for the delectable Italian fare and many go, as it is the starting point for their cruise adventure. No matter what their reason, they crowd the narrow streets and the attractions making it difficult to enjoy the city intimately. Sometimes, I avoid Venice altogether during June, July and August. Sometimes, I travel there only during the off-season, coat in hand. Sometimes I grin and bear it. Sometimes…I find an escape.

There are many lovely cities near Venice that are easily reached by train or bus. One such city, Padova, is a quick train ride from the city and a nice respite from the summer madness.

Padova, located about 25 miles west of Venice, claims to be the oldest city in northern Italy. Standing on the Bacchiglione River, which surrounds the city like a moat, it hosts the University of Padova, founded in 1222, where Galileo Galilei was a lecturer and was the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare’s “The Taming of the Shrew”.

Many are confused by the different spellings of the city’s name, Padova and Padua…simply put, Padova is the Italian spelling and Padua, the English.

An extremely picturesque city, there are many arcaded streets opening into large piazzas and a large number of bridges crossing the Bacchiglione river. Not immense by any means, it is the perfect size to visit on a day trip or to spend a few nights.

There are many things to see within the city, including the most famous of the churches, the Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova. Many pilgrims make the trip to Padova every year to visit this historic basilica, which honors St. Anthony, the patron saint of lost and stolen things. Dating back to 1230, the basilica contains many great works of art as well the bones of St. Anthony and relics of the saint (see my post “Finder of Lost Things and People”).

Another very famous place to visit in Padova is the Scrovegni Chapel. Called the “Arena Chapel”, because it stands on the site of a Roman-era arena, it houses many remarkable frescoes by Giotto, detailing the life of the Virgin Mary. These frescoes have been deemed to be of the most important in the world. Commissioned by Enrico degli Scrovegni, a wealthy private banker, it served as a private chapel once attached to his family’s palazzo. Visiting the chapel is not an easy ordeal, however. First, tickets must be secured on-line at least 24 hours in advance. Visitors who have not booked should check entry availability at the Museum ticket office. Those with tickets should reach the chapel at least five minutes before their allotted time or they will not be admitted. Only twenty-five people are admitted per visit and must endure spending 15 minutes prior to entrance in a climate-controlled, air-locked vault, used to stabilize the temperature between the outside world and the inside of the chapel as preservation is of the utmost importance. Visits within the chapel (after air-lock) are only allowed for 15 minutes and no video cameras, cameras, food or drinks are allowed. Mobile phones must be switched off. While I was not able to secure tickets for my visit, I did see the Chapel while traveling thru the city.

After your visit to Scrovegni chapel, head next door to the Church of the Eremitani, a 13th century Augustinian church, containing the tombs of Jacopo and Urbertinello da Carrara, lords of Padova. The church, located next to Nazi headquarters, suffered heavy damage during bombings in World War II and a great portion of the Mantagna’s frescoes within the Ovetari Chapel were destroyed. Other frescoes by artists Guariento and Ansuino da Forli are preserved in the church. The municipal art gallery is housed in the old monastery of the church.

Walking south along the tram lines will lead you to the Tomb of Antenor, located at via del Santo and via San Francesco. Antenor, a Trojan prince, hero and founder of Padova, was believed to have been buried in the city. A marble arch containing a coffin was found and was proclaimed to be the precious remains of Antenor. In 1985, however, examination of the bone fragments proved that the remains were could not be dated back to the time period as first believed. The stone sarcophagus still stands in Piazza Antenor and bears an epitaph written in Latin by the Padovan judge Lovato dei Lovati…This sepulchre excavated from marble contains the body of the noble Antenor who left his country, guided the Eneti and Trojans, banished the Euganeans and founded Padua. The tomb adjacent to Antenor’s belongs to Lovati, although it is known as the tomb of Antenor’s dog, as it bears the bas-relief representing a dog on his tomb. Opposite the Piazza Antenor, take note of the 15th century Palazzo Sala and the Gothic Palazzo Romanin Jacur which carries an inscription saying that Dante hid there to escape arrest.

Nearby in the Piazza dei Signori, is the Astrological Clock. The original clock, built by Jacopo de’Dondi was very advanced and complex for its time and was destroyed either in 1390 or 1399. A replica now presides over the square, however, studying the clock shows that the among the signs of the Zodiac, the sign of Libra is missing…the crab (Cancer) occupies a double space. Legend has it that the builder omitted the Libra symbol intentionally due to not being paid adequately, however, another story tells that the original clock’s crab was also missing as a protest by Jacopo for a town suffering injustice from the Carraresi family. Also notable with the Piazza dei Signori is the beautiful loggia, the Gran Guardia and close by, the Palazzo del Capitaniato, the residence of the Venetian governors.

Caffè Pedrocchi is also just around the corner (see my blog post “The Doorless Cafe”) and was built in 1831. Called the “doorless cafe” because of its openness, it also earned the name because it was originally open 24 hours a day. A very historical establishment, it is a great place to grab a bite to eat and a drink.

Another beautiful architectural specimen, the Palazzo della Ragione, located nearby between two grand squares (the Piazza Delle Erbe and the Piazza Delle Frutta) is known to have the largest roof unsupported by columns in Europe. The Palazzo, dating back to 1172, stands upon open arches and the upper story is surrounded by an open loggia. Beneath the great hall, there is a centuries-old market on most days. The Palazzo can be visited daily except for Mondays.

Walking south through the city, you will find yourself at the Prato della Valle, the largest square in Europe (see my blog post “Yes, It’s Big”). Created by Andrea Memmo in the 18th century, it is lined by 78 statues portraying famous citizens along a small canal with a beautiful green island center, I’Isola Memmia. Many beautiful Italian buildings surround Il Prati, as it is locally known, such as the Palazzo Angeli and La Loggia Amulea

While visiting Il Prati, a bit of time should be taken the visit the Abbey of Santa Giustina and the adjacent Basilica. One of the most important monasteries in the area in the 15th century it was eventually suppressed by Napoleon. Reopened in 1919, the tombs of several saints are housed in the interior, including St. Justine, St. Prosdocimus, St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julianus, as well as relics of the Apostle St. Matthias and the Evangelist St. Luke.

There are many other things to visit in Padua, depending on one’s tastes and the amount of time you have to devote to the city…the fortified walls and gates of the city, Santa Sofia, Padova’s most ancient church, the church of San Gaetano, the Padua Synagogue, the buildings of Palazzo del Bo, the City Hall (Palazzo Moroni), the Castello, which the main tower was transformed into an astronomical observatory and the many bridges, Ponte San Lorenzo, a Roman bridge largely underground, along with the ancient Ponte Molino, Ponte Altinate, Ponte Corvo and Ponte S. Matteo.

Whatever you decide to see and do in Padova and however you decide to pronounce it, you will appreciate all that it has to offer and its uncrowded easygoing spirit.

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Padova

http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/veneto/padua.html
Getting There: http://www.trenitalia.com/ From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00. From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
Getting There: Padua City Tram http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00
Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova, http://www.santantonio.org/en/basilica Piazza del Santo, 11, 35123 Padova, Italy Free admission. Weekdays, January 1-March 26, 0620-1845, March 27-October 29, 0620-1945, October 30-December 31, 0620-1845. Saturdays and Sundays, 0620-1945
Scrovegni Chapel, http://www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it/index.php/en/ Address: Piazza Eremitani, 8, 35121 Padova PD, Italy Admission: Adults€13. Hours: 0900-1900, daily.
Church of Eremetani, http://www.guidepadova.it/en-GB/Monumenti/Vedi/the-eremitani’s-church Address: Piazza Eremitani, 9, 35129 Padova PD, Italy. Free admission. Weekdays, 0730-1230 and 1530-1900, Saturdays and Sundays, 0900-1230 and 1600-2000.
Tomb of Antenor, Address: Piazza Antenore 35121 Padova, Italy
Astrological Clock, http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it/musei/astronomical-clock Piazza dei Signori. Free entry. Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Maximum 10 persons. Visits start from Piazza Capitaniato 19. Times: 10:00, 10:30, 11:00, 11:30
Caffe Pedrocchi, http://www.caffepedrocchi.it/ Address: Via VIII Febbraio, 15, 35122 Padova, Hours: Bar, Sun-Wed, 0900-2100, Thurs-Sat, 0900-midnight, Historical salon upstairs, daily, 0930-1230 and 1530-2000
Palazzo della Ragione, http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it Address: Piazza delle Erbe, 35100 Padova PD, Italy. Hours: 01Feb-31Oct, 0900-1900, 01Nov-31Jan, 0900-1800, Admission: Adults, €6.00
Prato della Valle, http://www.padovanet.it/informazione/prato-della-valle#.VgQdS60VhBc Address: Via Prato della Valle, 35121 Padova PD, Italy
Abbey and Basilica of Santa Giustina, http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/ Address: Via Giuseppe Ferrari, 2A, 35123 Padova PD, Italy Hours: Summer weekdays, 0700-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000. Winter weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000. Free admission.

The Doorless Cafe

How do you combine touring and cocktail hour while in Padova? Visit the Caffè Pedrocchi, founded in the 18th century, which has seen numerous famous literary, artistic and political figures step through its doors. It was once known as the largest cafe in Europe and often argued as the most beautiful coffeehouse in the world.

When you look at Caffè Pedrocchi from the outside, it appears to be more of a palace than coffeehouse with its tall columns and lions gracing the entrance. The interior consists of three rooms on the main floor, influenced by the colors of the Italian flag…the Red, White and Green rooms. Nine rooms and a museum featuring 19th century Paduan history compromise the upstairs. During warmer weather, the doors are opened wide and service is extended to the outside veranda and onto the pedestrian piazza. Called the “doorless cafe” because of its openness, it also earned the name because it was originally open 24 hours a day.

Caffè Pedrocchi is widely known for its prize-winning signature drink, made of piping hot espresso topped with a cold mint creme topping, however, other drinks and a light menu is served.

Sitting in the lovely Red Room, next to the piano, we ordered Aperol Spritzes and beer, a plate of meats and cheeses and Arancini di Ragu, stuffed rice croquettes, recommended by my Sicilian friend, Antonio. I can not describe how delicious these were! Other snacks, such as chips, olives and nuts were also brought to accompany our drinks. Table service is offered, however, drinks can also be ordered from the bar.

While out seeing the nearby piazzas, make a detour to admire the beauty of this building and stop in for a quick drink. Imagining those who have crossed the threshold of this historic place only adds to the allure of this cafe. Though a little pricier than many of the nearby establishments, a visit to a Caffè Pedrocchi is a must while in Padua!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Caffè Pedrocchi

http://www.caffepedrocchi.it/
Via VIII Febbraio, 15, 35122 Padova
Hours: Bar, Sun-Wed, 0900-2100, Thurs-Sat, 0900-midnight, Historical salon upstairs, daily, 0930-1230 and 1530-2000
Getting There: http://www.trenitalia.com/ From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00. From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
Getting There: Padova Tram-stop Ponti Romani http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10.00, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00
Getting There: Bus #s 3, 8, 12, 16, 18, or 22

A House of Saints

When visiting Padua, most people make their way down to Prato della Valle, the largest square in Italy. Presiding at the south end of the square is a church that cannot be overlooked, especially for the extremely devout…Basilica di Santa Giustina.

Giustina (Justine), the patron saint of Padua, was a virgin of royal birth and a disciple of St. Peter the Apostle. At the age of 16, Justine suffered martyrdom during the Christian persecutions of Diocletian. Tortured and beheaded, her body was taken to Rome where it was interred on the estate of a noble lady named Rufina and later entombed in Constantine’s basilica.

Justine’s remains were eventually taken back to the site of her martyrdom. The Abbey of St. Giustina was founded in the 5th century on her tomb and during the 15th century became one of the most important monasteries in the area until its suppression by Napoleon in 1810. During the 6th century the church was dedicated to St. Justine.

Everyone should realize by now that I love visiting churches in Europe for their historical, architectural and artistic importance. This one did not impress me…at first. Not as elaborate as the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, both on the inside and out, this basilica, built in the 6th century, however, is the final resting place for not one, but many saints. As I made a decision to enter, I was not aware of this.

The exterior of St. Giustina is unfortunately not finished, as with most churches in Padua and when entering, the basilica seems quite barren besides the 26 massive columns that fill the space. Much of the artwork and sculpture were removed by Napoleon and brought to France. The side chapels, however, are interesting and richly decorated. The altarpiece of the grand high main altar is impressive, painted by Paolo Veronese, and represents the “Martyrdom of St. Giustina”.

Walking down the right aisle of the church, you will find the Chapel of St. Matthew. Through this chapel you will reach the Corridor of the Martyrs…this is a part of the church that cannot be missed.

A small frescoed chamber houses the bones of early Christian martyrs and further down the corridor, you will see the iron cage with the remains of the wooden coffin of St. Luke. At the end of the corridor, you will reach the grave chapel of St. Prosdocimus, which is also the oldest church in Padua. In the small vestibule to the chapel, you will find the tomb of St. Giustina on the left-hand side. St. Luke, the author of the Acts of the Apostles and the Gospel of Luke, is interred at the end of the left transept of the church. Other saints housed in the basilica are St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julian and relics of St. Matthias.

The old choir, which is adjacent to the major corridor, can be visited only with special permission.

It is possible to also visit the monastery that belongs to the Benedictine order. Tour guides will accompany you in the most ancient part of the first basilica, through the cloisters and the rooms that house the fragments of the second basilica.

At the bottom of the South transept in the Martyrs’ Hall, religious objects and books can be purchased in the gift shop. One of the most interesting things that can also be purchased here is an ancient cure once prepared in the apothecary of the Monastery…the Santa Giustina oil, used for muscle and joint pain and massage.

A most holy place, Santa Giustina should not be omitted from your plans while in Padua. While I had not researched this church, I only ventured in while I was walking through Prato della Valle. Realizing what significant historical importance it has within Catholicism, I am most grateful that I did.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Abby of Santa Giustina

http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/
Prato della Valle, 35100, Padua, Italy
Admission: free
Hours: Spring/Summer, weekdays, 0730-1200 and 1500-2000, weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000. Autumn/Winter, weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000.
Getting There: Tram-stop Prato della Valle http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10.00, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00

Yes, It’s Big!

Moscow’s Red Square is bigger, but this comes close!

My second stop on my visit to Padova was to the Prato della Valle, the 90,000 square meter elliptical square near the Basilica of St. Anthony. It is one of the largest squares in Europe and the largest in Italy.

Having looked up pictures of Padova some time ago, Prato della Valle is what I remembered most…the beautiful green island center, l’Isola Memmia, surrounded by a small canal bordered by two rings of 78 statues, representing famous citizens of Padua, such as popes, doges and others, like Galileo and accessed by four stone bridges. This was one of the things that I most wanted to see in Padova!

Prato della Valle, or Il Prato, as it is affectionately known by locals, was once a swampy area south of the city walls. In 1636, a group of Venetian and Veneto notables constructed an opulent theater as a venue for mock battles on horseback on this site. In 1767, the land, belonging to the monks of Santa Guistina, became the property of the city of Padua. In 1775, Andrea Memmo, whose statue is in the square, decided to reclaim and reconstruct the area. After excavations eventually uncovered an ancient Roman theater, of which remains were used to build the Basilica of St. Guistina, the city recognized the historical value and transformed the area into one for public use.

The square is surrounded by beautiful Italian buildings including the Palazzo Angeli, which was constructed in the 15th century and was the residence of Andrea Memmo, La Loggia Amulea, a neo-gothic style palace which was the seat of the fire brigade of Padua from 1906 to 1989 and the benedictine Abbey of Santa Giustina. Take the time to walk around the outer ring of Il Prato and inspect each of these historic buildings. There are also many dining establishments adjacent to the square.

Prato della Valle is now a place that attracts a large number of visitors who use the area as a meeting point, a place to skate, stroll, study or chat until early hours of the morning. The city also hosts skating competitions on the wide asphalted ring that surrounds the square and many celebrations, complete with music and fireworks take place here. On Saturdays, a huge market occupies almost the entire square and in June, an annual theme park adjacent to the square attracts lots thousands of visitors. This theme park, called Luna Park, was operating at the time and although we were visiting on a Sunday, there was a small market set up on one side of Il Prato.

While visiting Padova and the Basilica of St. Anthony, take the time to wander over to the Prato della Valle…have a bite to eat and take in the beauty of this area. It’s not like anything you’ve ever seen! Trust me, it’s big!

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Prato della Valle

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=it&u=http://www.padovanet.it/informazione/prato-della-valle&prev=search
Via Prato della Valle, 35121 Padova PD, Italy
Hours: Open Year Round
Admission: No charge
Getting There: http://www.trenitalia.com/ From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00. From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
Getting There: Padova Tram-stop Prato della Valle http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10.00, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00