Category: Yorktown

A Piece of the Triangle

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Most people know that Yorktown was the site, after seven years of the American Revolution, that British General Lord Charles Cornwallis surrendered to General George Washington during the last major land battle which brought an end to the conflict.

After a visit to the battlefield, visitors often head into the town to explore the distinct reminders of Yorktown’s historic past.

Millions of tourists visit Yorktown annually, in conjunction with visits to nearby Jamestown and Williamsburg. All three cities, which form the Historic Triangle, offer interesting experiences to visitors of all ages. Though it has been quiet lately, I think that interest in the origins of our great nation will continue to lure the past crowds back to the area and on this beautiful fall day, it lured me.

Established in 1691, to regulate trade and collect taxes on both imports and exports for Great Britain, Yorktown emerged as a major port and economic center in the early part of the next century. With almost 300 buildings, the waterfront offered wharves, docks, storehouses and business and the city streets contained stately homes, taverns and shops during the mid 1700’s. 1781 saw Cornwallis’ arrival and the subsequent siege by American and French forces. As a result, much of the town was destroyed.

At the end of the war, fewer than seventy buildings remained. A fire in 1814 destroyed much of the surviving waterfront area, many homes and the courthouse on Main Street. More destruction was seen during the Civil War in 1862.

While I would have loved to visit the American Revolution Museum, time was limited after my drive through the battlefield and I was much more interested in taking a stroll to channel what it must have been like before the siege. Parking in a lot in the downtown area, I decided to spend the remainder of the afternoon walking the town streets and seeing what makes it unique.

Yorktown has a colonial atmosphere and while there are some reminders of its historic past, much of it has been reconstructed. There are some sites of importance that I encountered during my stroll along the pedestrian friendly streets. Many historic buildings were not open to the public during my visit, but it was nice to inspect their architectural prominence from the grounds and imagine it as it once was…a thriving tobacco port.

One of the most important homes in Yorktown is the Nelson House on Main Street. This was the home of Thomas Nelson, Jr., one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence and a commander of the Virginia Militia during the Siege of Yorktown. Much of the house has withstood the test of time and is original, including the bricks and most of the mortar in the outer walls. The interior boasts its original wall panels and most of its wooden floors. The home is filled with reproductions and a few period pieces obtained to show visitors how the Nelsons lived.

The Cole Digges House, also on Main Street, is one of mystery. Originally thought to have been constructed by Thomas Pate, a landowner during the period of 1699 to 1703, the house was thought to have been built in 1700, however there is no record of its construction. When Cole Digges, purchased the land in 1713, records show a home on the lot, however, the National Park Service claims that Digges built the home in the 1730s due to its style and tree-ring analysis showing that the wood in the home was harvested around that time. The home has undergone renovations over the years, retaining its characteristics from the alterations made by owners in 1921. Today, it operates as the Mobjack Bay Coffee Roasters store.

The Somerwell House is another home, near the Digges and Nelson houses, whose origins are uncertain. Named for Mungo Somerwell, owner of the property in the early 1700s. Purchased by Philip Lightfoot in 1716, and then known as the Lightfoot House, the National Park Service opted to go with the original owner’s name which points to a construction date between 1700 and 1707, making it the oldest house in Yorktown. It was once used as a visitor center and park headquarters, and now used as a rental property.

The Old Custom House, on the corner of Main and Read Streets, was built around 1720 by Customs Agent Richard Ambler, to secure import and export taxes and duties for the Port of Yorktown and is one of only twelve historic Customs Houses still remaining in the United States. This house is open to the public on Sundays from June to October and offers a museum.

A little further down the street, the Yorktown Victory Monument towers on the banks of the York River. Commemorating the American-French victory over the British during the Siege of Yorktown in 1781, which ended the American Revolution, the monument was designed by architects R.M. Hunt and Henry Van Brunt, sculpted by J.Q.A. Ward in 1881 and was completed three years later. The monument displays four high relief sculptures which depict military aspects of the American-French alliance. Thirty-eight stars on the column represent the thirty-eight states that were present at the time of the monuments erection, thirteen neoclassical female figures represent the thirteen original colonies and under them can be spied the saying, “One country, one constitution, one destiny.” The monument is crowned by Lady Liberty.

Backtracking to the center of town, I sought out the town’s one religious structure, Grace Episcopal Church. Built in 1697, the church has survived fire and two wars. As I walked among the graves, I witnessed numerous gravesites from some of Virginia’s most prominent families, including Thomas Nelson, Jr., a signer of the Declaration of Independence, Nicholas Martiau, George and Elizabeth Martiau Read, “Scotch” Tom Nelson and William Nelson.

Breathing in the salty air, I led it lead me down Church Street, finding myself on the waterfront facing Yorktown Beach. The day was relatively warm and I spied many families enjoying the sunny skies and picturesque views. I stopped for a moment, taking off my shoes so I could feel the sand between my toes and looked out over the river and at the George P. Coleman Memorial Bridge spanning its width.

Continuing my walk along the Riverwalk, I encountered the Historic Freight Shed which was constructed by the National Park Service in the 1930s to serve as a ferry terminal building between York and Gloucester and as a warehouse for freight being shipped from other ports. Once the Coleman Bridge was completed, the ferry service was suspended and the building was solely used for storage. In 1956, the building was remodeled to be used as a post office, however, the post office was relocated in 2000. The building was transferred from the National Park Service to York County and moved back from the river approximately 300 feet. Today it serves the area as a event venue.

Stopping for a moment, I studied the three statues in front of the Freight Shed. These statues pay tribute to the Marquis de Lafayette and the assistance given by France to General Washington during the Siege of Yorktown.

Though it was tempting to spend more time enjoying this beautiful town, it was getting late. The Riverwalk is a wonderful place to enjoy a meal, visit galleries and boutiques, listen to the sounds of the Fifes and Drums and other live entertainment or rent a bike, kayak or Segway and cruise the waterfront. Sadly, due to Covid, many of these things were not available. In addition to the waterfront area, there are so many things to see and do in Yorktown…a ride on the Schooner Alliance, ghost tours, the York County Historical Museum, the Poor Potter Archaeological Site, the Yorktown Baptist Church among them…if you are planning a visit, make sure to plan accordingly.

Finally, I began the uphill walk back to where I had began, passing the Swan Tavern a reconstruction of the main tavern from 1722 and York Hall, the former courthouse.

It is a great benefit to live so close to so many places that played such a significant part of our country’s history. While I couldn’t see everything in Yorktown on this day, there is nothing stopping me from the hour long drive on another.

I will be back.

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Yorktown

  • https://visityorktown.org/
  • Getting There: From I-95, Take I-64 East to VA-199 East/Colonial Parkway, Follow the Colonial Parkway to Yorktown, Turn left onto Water Street. Yorktown is 160 miles from Washington DC, 62 miles from Richmond and 12 miles from Williamsburg.

Nelson House

Cole Digges House

Somerwell House

The Old Customs House

  • Address: 410 Main Street, Yorktown, Virginia 23690, United States

Yorktown Victory Monument

Grace Episcopal Church

Historic Freight Shed

  • https://www.visityorktown.org/240/Freight-Shed
  • Address: 331 Water St, Yorktown, VA 23690, United States

A Place of Surrender

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If your interests lie in American history, then Virginia is the place to be.

With scores of battlefields, historical homes and buildings you can fill many days on your vacation or if you live there, like me, take field trips to occupy your unscheduled days.

On a beautiful fall afternoon, I found myself quite restless. I was tired of cleaning up after the dog, tired of watching Netflix and being off of work at that moment, definitely needing something different. Jumping in my car I headed east, knowing that there are many parks and places to visit along the way, I figured that I would just drive until inspiration hit.

Spotting the signs for Yorktown, I decided that since it was such a lovely day to be outside, checking out the battlefield would be perfect.

My arrival at the Visitor’s Center found it to be closed due to Covid restrictions, however, a park ranger was available outside to answer questions and assist with maps and ideas on how to tackle the immense battlefield area. Under normal circumstances, the Visitor Center is the perfect place to start your explorations with an orientation film, entitled “The Siege at Yorktown” and examine museum exhibits, which include the field tents used by General George Washington during battle and the campaign table used by British General Cornwallis. However, because the Visitor Center was closed, no fees were collected for my visit, a bonus!

Visitor’s Center

As I listened to the downloaded app on my phone, I learned that Yorktown was important in our nation’s history as this was the battle where American independence was won. On October 19, 1781, American and French armies led by General George Washington saw the surrender of the British forces under Lord Charles Cornwallis.

Although the British had chosen Yorktown for its deep water harbor and had fortified Yorktown, they were unprepared for the large army that arrived. George Washington had left New York with approximately 7,000 American and French troops and picked up nearly 8,000 more along the way. French Admiral Francois Joseph Paul de Grasse landed with a fleet of warships and an additional 3,000 troops, blockading the mouth of the York River. With no supplies and no reinforcements, Cornwallis found himself in peril and bound for a battle in which he was not ready.

The six-stop tour of Yorktown Battlefield was easy to navigate and led me to the most important spots on the battlefield, each marked with signs directing me from one stop to the next. Signs with red arrows were easy to follow for the Yorktown Battlefield tour and the yellow arrows for the Allied Encampment tour.

Beginning at Stop A, the British Inner Defense Line, I noted the preserved earthworks built by the British soldiers as defensive walls and many cannons, which are pointed in the direction where the American and French forces were positioned. In this area, are the remains of a small British fort (the Hornwork) and in the nearby field, the home of Thomas Nelson, a former Secretary of State for the Colony of Virginia. This home was used as Cornwallis’ headquarters until it was destroyed during the fighting.

Going out of order, my next stop (C) was the Second Allied Siege Line which ran all the way to the York River in the east. Parking in the adjacent lot, I took a walk along the pathways which bordered the earthworks and again, spied many cannons.

At Stop B, the Grand French Battery, I learned that the earthworks here are reconstructions. When the originals were leveled and had eroded, the National Park Service built the current fortifications in the exact location of the originals. There is a Howitzer and a mortar near the parking area and a footbridge and another information panel which describes the various artillery pieces.

Rather than return to the main road near the Visitor Center and Stops D and E, I decided to continue along Surrender Road toward the encampments. The six-stop tour of the Allied Encampment area gives visitors an overview of the areas that the American and French troops used for spending time, sleeping, drilling and storing artillery and other equipment. A beautiful drive through the woods, there wasn’t much to see besides the natural beauty of the area including wetlands and large open fields; a vivid imagination is required. Occasional signs enlighten visitors as to the locations of the French Hospital, the Headquarters Site of the Quartermaster General, the Headquarters Site of Henry Knox, Beaver Dam Creek, Washington’s Headquarters and the French Encampment. I discovered the Essex Lodge Cemetery and the French Cemetery, marked by a simple cross in memory of about fifty unidentified French soldiers killed during the Siege of Yorktown. There were a few cannons, both American and French, along the way, many in the French Artillery Park.

Heading back towards the York River, I made my way to Stop D, Redoubts 9 and 10. The earthworks that made up the British inner defenses was anchored by earthen forts as its outer defenses. These redoubts, located on the banks of the river, were stormed by the French and American forces on the night of October 14, 1781 and captured within thirty minutes. The devastation to the British position was so great that the next day, Cornwallis called for a cease fire and surrender talks began. Both forts have been reconstructed by the National Park Service and artillery representing the large American battery are on display along the siege line which runs behind the redoubt.

On the way to Stop E, I encountered the Wormley Pond Dam, built by Augustine Moore to power his grist mill. American troops marched over the dam regularly as they moved to and from the Siege line. The Moore House, the next stop on the tour, was not open to visitors but its grounds were available for inspection. This was the location where after Cornwallis asked for a cease fire and the talks for surrender terms were negotiated on October 18, 1781. Washington and Cornwallis were not present, however, each sent two representatives; for the British, Lieutenant Colonel Thomas Dundas and Major Alexander Ross and for the American-French alliance, Lieutenant Colonel John Laurens and Colonel Viscount de Noailles. An agreement was reached that night.

The Moore House was almost destroyed during the Civil War and has been renovated many times by the National Park Service. Although very little of the house remains from 1781, it was restored to its 1781 appearance based on drawings and descriptions from the time. The house is furnished with reproductions and antiques from the time period and it is not known which room was used to sign the surrender documents, although it is believed to have been the parlor. During normal operations, the house is open during various times from April through October and often rangers are present at the house to answer questions.

Finally, I made my way to the last stop on the tour, Stop F, Surrender Field, the location where 7,000 British soldiers abdicated to the American and French armies on October 19, 1781.

During a time when surrendering with dignity was so important, it was a great insult to Cornwallis that the Americans would not let him do so. Consider it payback that when the British had captured Charleston, the Americans were not allowed to surrender with honor. Negotiations lasted day and night at the Moore House, however, the British had to finally agree or continue to endure the battering from the French and American artillery. Claiming illness, Cornwallis did not attend the surrender.

From the parking area, you can follow a paved path which leads to an observation deck that looks out over the still intact field and an audio presentation can be accessed by the push of a button. Leaving the observation deck, follow the walkway and check out the display of surrendered artillery pieces which were engraved to mark the historic occasion. 12,000 muskets and 244 artillery pieces were relinquished by the British and 250 artillery pieces were engraved and given to various dignitaries.

The two historic trails are a wonderful way to spend an afternoon, learning about one of the most important events in our nation’s history. Not only can you see the locations of some of the fiercest battles, but you can spend the day in nature possibly spotting bald eagles, osprey, woodland birds, deer, groundhogs and squirrels. After a day on the battlefield, head over to the town of Yorktown and discover more of the area’s history.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Yorktown Battlefield National Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/york/index.htm
  • Address: 1000 Colonial Parkway, Yorktown, Virginia 23690
  • Hours: Park grounds and tour roads, open from sunrise to sunset. Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center is open for access to the Eastern National bookstore, open Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1600. The theater and exhibit areas are currently closed. The Moore House, The Nelson House, The Cemetery Lodge and the Poor Potter are closed but grounds open for visitation.
  • Admission: Adults aged 15 and over, $15.00. Admission is valid for 7 days and provides access to the following resources managed by Colonial National Historical Park: Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center Museum and Battlefield Tour Roads, Jamestown Visitor Center, Glasshouse and Island Drive Tour Road.
  • Getting There: From eastbound I-64, take exit 242B for Yorktown, to the Colonial Parkway. Follow the parkway to its end. From westbound I-64, take exit 250B for Route 105 East (Fort Eustis Boulevard east) to Route 17 (George Washington Memorial Highway). Turn left (North) onto Route 17. Follow the signs to the Yorktown Battlefield.