Category: Santorini

So Much Santorini…So Little Time

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

It was our last day in Santorini.

How do you squeeze in a gazillion things into only so many daylight hours?

We had some ideas of places we wanted to visit…the Ancient Site of Thera for sure…maybe the beaches in Perissa or Kamari.

As we drove toward the town of Perissa, we stared in wonder at the large groups of tourists who stood, patiently waiting for the local bus. Where were they all going? Probably other beaches, judging from their tropical attire.

We were heading to where they were heading away from…the village of Perissa.

Perissa, located on the southeastern edge of Santorini, is a coastal village where the ancient city of Elefsina was believed to have been located. At the base of Mesa Vouno mountain, the small village is known for its beautiful blue waters, black lava sand and wide array of restaurants and accommodations.

As we drove into the village, the first thing I noticed was the Tlimios Stavros with its blue dome and impressive bell tower. Once we had found a place to park, we walked over to the church to take a look. Most of the churches we had visited had been open, however, we found this one locked and we were forced to admire is architectural beautify from outside. The village was quite charming, filled with lots of souvenirs and we made a mental note to return in the evening to enjoy one of the many restaurants that lined the beach area.

As I gazed up at Mesa Vouno, movement caught my eye. People were walking up a steep path towards the summit! I knew the site of Ancient Thera was located on the mountain, but I had not realized that you could climb from Perissa. High on the mountainous slopes, I also spotted the white-washed chapel of Panagia Katefiani. Could I make it all the way?

After talking with a local in one of the shops, I learned that we could drive back to Pyrgos and then head toward Kamari. There, we would find the road that leads to Ancient Thera, complete with parking and we would not have to climb the entire way up the mountain. Pressed for time, this would be our option.

A short while later, we were making the harrowing drive from Kamari to Ancient Thera…2.3 kilometers with 22 hairpin switchbacks. Taking our cue from other drivers, we proceeded carefully and stopped at each switchback to blow the horn at descending traffic. A little worse for the wear, we finally arrived at our destination.

After purchasing our tickets, we began our climb to the summit of Ancient Thera, the 11th century BC Dorian settlement that exhibits remains from Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods as well as amazing views of Kamari on one side and Perissa, Perivolos, Fira and Oia from the other. And on clear days, you can also see some of the neighboring islands!

The existence of Ancient Thera is one of the most important pieces of Santorini’s history. After excavations began in 1986, it was revealed that a settlement stretching from northwest to southwest, was split by a central street with many side streets branching off of each side.

As we walked through the immense site, we encountered many excavated ruins including the Agora (the main square of the city) the Basilike Stoa (the center of public life), the theater (which contained seating for 1,500 people), the sacred area (with an enclosed grotto dedicated to Hermes and Heracles) and a gymnasium with Roman baths.

A cul-de-sac, at the highest point of the city, had an impressive building which was the headquarters of the fleet commander and a courtyard next door which was thought to be the gymnasium of the garrison. There were also the remains of dwelling which belonged to officers of the fleet.

Higher up on the mountain plateau was where the city’s inhabitants lived in houses centralized around a small courtyard where a cistern was located. Some houses had two levels and others also had basements.

There are many remains of artwork exhibited throughout the site including mosaics and carvings that can still be spied throughout and although the entire city is captivating, what transfixed our attention was the views. Staring out at the neighboring islands and the city’s of Kamari and Perissa below reminded us that we needed to continue our exploration of the island.

Making our way back the way we had come, I looked longingly at the footpath heading down to Perissa. A gentleman leading horses down the trail reminded me that because we had not made the climb from Perissa, caused me to miss the small chapel I had spied from the village. There was so much more that we had missed on the island, it would have to wait until a future visit!

The drive down the mountain was just as unnerving as on the way up, but finally we arrived in Kamari. Though we had planned to spend the afternoon on Kamari or Perissa’s beaches, we decided that although we had driven through Fira on a couple of occasions, we had never had the opportunity to explore the capital of Santorini.

After securing a parking spot, we headed into the narrow, crowded streets and alleys, passing through Theotokopoulos Square, which overflows with cafes and thousands of visitors, Gold Street and its countless jewelry stores and the commercial center of Fabrika.

We finally arrived at the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, one of the most photographed churches on the island, due to its primary location in the city. Built in 1827, the large church offers amazing views of the caldera and nearby islands. Destroyed in the great earthquake of 1956, it was rebuilt with elaborate arches, a stunning bell tower, beautiful frescoes, a mosaic flooring, amazing central chandelier and offers religious paintings created by Santorinian painter Christoforos Asimis.

Finally, we headed to the teleferico. I had once seen a video on arriving visitors to the island taking the donkeys up the steep, winding path. I must admit, when we arrived two days before, this is what I had anticipated and was quite disappointed that there were no donkeys…only the rental car representative.

My husband, son and I paid for our cable car transport to the bottom of the steep cliffs to the old port below. A very picturesque setting, we walked along the harbor, watching passengers arrive and depart from waiting cruise ships and tours. There were quaint boats moored in the slip and many shops and restaurants as well as the old market.

As we prepared to take the cable car back to the top, I decided that even though my husband and son had no interest in riding the donkey to the top, I needed to do it!

Taking my place in the queue, I paid the attendant, climbed on and off I went up the steep pathway. It was fun to travel the traditional way that goods and people once did to Fira, although sometimes my donkey had a mind of its own. Or…maybe it was just giving me time to enjoy the views! Still, it was much more fun than climbing up 587 steps to the top!

Our final stop of the day was to one of the many bars that look out over the caldera. Here, we enjoyed one of the most spectacular views that I have ever seen!

Although we only saw about a quarter of what this amazing island had to offer, I was suddenly caught up in the moment.

What was right there before my eyes was what Santorini is all about!

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Ancient Thera

  • http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=2454
  • Address: Ancient Thera Road, Kamari 17892, Greece
  • Hours: November 1 until March 31, 0800-1500, Closed Mondays. April 1 until October 31, 0830-1600, Closed Tuesday.
  • Admission: Full, €4, Reduced, €2. Special ticket package, Full: €14, Reduced: €7. The special package 4 day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera including Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artifacts at Pyrgos. Free admission on March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September, National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.

Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral

  • Address:  Ipapantis, Thira 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: free
  • Modest dress required

Santorini Cable Car

  • http://www.scc.gr/
  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: April 1-April 30, 0700-2100, every 20 minutes. May 1-May 30 and September 1-October 31, 0700-2200, every 20 minutes. June 1-August 31, 0700-2300, every 20 minutes. November 1-November 30 and March 1-March 31, 0730-1030 and 1430-1800, every 30 minutes. December 1-February 28, 0700-0900 and 1500-1600, every 30 minutes.
  • Admission: Adults, one-way, 6€, Children, 3€, Luggage, 3€.

Santorini Donkeys

Old Santorini Port

Santorini South, Part Two

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The day was perfect.

Blue skies and amazing views were everywhere.

Heading further south on the well-maintained roads of Santorini, we continued on our journey to see what the scenic island would offer up to us.

After gazing out over Caldera Beach, we headed to the prehistoric town of Akrotiri. An ancient Minoan Bronze Age settlement, it was destroyed by a severe earthquakes and eventually a volcanic eruption at the last quarter of the 17th century B.C. Much like Pompeii in Italy, volcanic materials covered the town, protecting them for the town’s resurgence in later years. Since I had never been to Pompeii (something high on my bucket list), I was excited to see this well-preserved archaeological site and understand what I might see when I finally made my way to the Italian ruins.

The settlement, however, is protected by a bioclimatic roof and very different from pictures I had seen of Pompeii. After paying our entrance fee, we made our way around well-marked site, navigable by walkways suspended above the archaeological remains.

There were many important buildings that were mostly intact, including multi-storied houses, a few containing well-preserved frescoes, pottery and precious stone and bronze objects. Most of the important pieces that have been recovered, however, are now on display in the Museum of Prehistoric Thera.

After our visit was complete, we had planned to have lunch nearby and make our way to the adjacent Red Beach. So many cars and pedestrians were entering the parking area, however, we decided to alter our plans. Driving out past the modern-day village of Akrotiri, with its picturesque alleys, blue domed churches and traditional houses, we found a lovely restaurant, The Good Heart, located along the highway, to have a quick bite. Greeted warmly, we ate our lunch and bought some delicious snacks at their adjacent store.

Once our lunch and shopping was complete, we continued down to the end of the highway, stopping a couple of times to admire the continually beckoning caldera.

Our destination was the Akrotiri Lighthouse and we soon arrived, luckily securing a parking spot in the small lot. The well-known lighthouse is considered one of the best and most beautiful lighthouses in the Greek Isles.

A whitewashed structure, the lighthouse stands high on the cliff above the sea. Manufactured by a French company is 1892, it was one of the first lighthouses in the country and stands on a popular spot for tourists to enjoy the views and for locals to spend their evenings enjoying the cool breezes and spectacular sunsets.

Finally, heading back from the way we had just come, we decided that we had conquered most of the the southern sites of Santorini, but now needed to enjoy a bit of beach time. Heading down a small, rocky road toward the southern coast, we soon arrived at the Akro Beach Club.

Taking the steep stairs down the side of the cliff, we found ourselves at one of the three picturesque beaches that line the coast. Red, White and Black Beaches occupy methodical positions that can be reached by car in two of the instances (Red and Black) and by water taxi. Though we later learned that the water taxi would have been a cool alternative for us to see all three beaches, we were anxious to grab some beach chairs, beer and soak up some sun.

The beach was black, as its name suggests and a bit rocky. Thankfully, we had brought water shoes, making it much less difficult to make it down to the water’s edge. The water, however, was a bit cold for me!

The ambiance was amazing and we stayed much longer than we had anticipated, enjoying the sound of the waves, passing boats and warm weather. The beach was uncrowded and passengers from the water taxi came and went. More importantly, the beer was cold and refreshing!

As the day drew to a close, we finally made our way up the steep road…

To another beautiful sunset.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.com

Akrotiri

  • http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh351.jsp?obj_id=2410
  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: November 1-March 31, 0800-1500, Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday. April 15-October 31, 0800-2000, daily.
  • Admission: Full, €12, Reduded, €6. Special package 4-day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artefacts at Pyrgos. Free admission days, March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September annually (European Heritage Days), National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.
  • Getting There: By rental car, parking is available in adjacent lot, €4 or in Red Beach parking lot, €2. KTEL Santorini bus service to Akrotiri from Fira. Check out bus schedules at https://www.ktel-santorini.gr/index.php/en/.

Akrotiri Lighthouse

  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Black Beach

  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece

Akro Beach Bar

  • https://www.akrosantorini.com/
  • Address: Akrotiri 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: 1000-2200, daily
  • Admission: free.
  • Beach chair/umbrella pairs, $30 first row, $20 second row, $15 last row. Menu item prices vary. Food/drink service located on beach and in restaurant. Locked safety boxes available at beach chairs.

Akrotiri Water Taxi

  • Journeys to all three beaches, 10€ from Akrotiri, near Red Beach.

Santorini South, Part One

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Despite the obvious jetlag, I was up early on our first full day in Santorini.

Taking a look at my Google Maps on my iPhone, I was initially very excited…

Care to guess what I found?

If you’ve followed my blog for a while, you will realize how much I loved to visit churches and there were a LOT of churches on Santorini. I carefully marked them all with the intent of persuading my husband and son that they absolutely needed to be visited, but also marked other points of interest along the way that we would be driving.

Ekklisia Agia Marina was the first stop on our planned venture to the south of Santorini. As my husband and son waited in the car, I jumped out and made my way around the small church. Entering the small, walled courtyard, I ogled the stone facade and the trio of bells, eager to summon the congregants. Trying the door, I surprisingly found it unlocked and took a quick look inside. Similar to some of the larger Orthodox churches I had visited in Athens, I noticed how clean and orderly this small-scale temple appeared and I admired the colorful paintings.

Making my way outside, I encountered the caretaker, who waved a friendly “hello” as I briefly wondered if I maybe should not have entered without permission. He didn’t seem bothered by my visit, so I joined my husband and son and we drove down the narrow dirt road to admire the magnificent caldera view available here.

Walking down the small trail toward the edge of the cliff, we stood in awe of the perspective before us. The Santorini caldera was formed 3600 BP during the Minoan eruption with the island of Santorini, Therasia and Aspronisi on the periphery and Kameni islands at the center. Truly one of the largest natural wonders of the world, we felt extremely small gazing out on the azur Aegean waters and watching the ferries depart for and arrive from other Greek islands.

Continuing on our journey, we arrived at Megalochori, a traditional village which can be dated back to the 17th century. After parking in one of the nearby lots, we made our way through the maze of whitewashed, narrow lanes and walkways, many covered and lined by colorful bougainvillea, that offer up what makes this pristine town so special…historical mansions, traditional houses, inner courtyards, tavernas, restaurants, small shops, churches and a quaint village square.

Once the home of merchants and wealthy land barons that exported the wine that is still produced there, the village exudes an air of mystery with its high walls and solid door entrances which were built for protection against the pirates that sometimes invaded the area.

In the center of the village, located at the top of a stairway, we stumbled upon the Hellenic Cultural Center which offers Greek classes and had many displays of items made in and used in Greek culture.

A little further, we were able to visit one of the cave homes that are common to area and that were often lived in by the less-wealthy citizens during the time frame.

Passing under the village belltowers, we strolled through the square and it was evident that this was the heart and soul of the village. Here, many locals were gathered to share information and play games of cards or tavli (backgammon). As we took in the menus of the many restaurants located, we made some mental notes for our dinner later that evening.

After our departure from Megalachori, we headed a little further down the road and two things caught my eye…a church and a windmill! The church, Μεταμόρφωση Χριστού (I think it is the Church of the Transfiguration of Christ), was not open to visitors, however, there was another lovely view of the caldera and a paved trail, beautifully lined with natural growth and flowers, leading to the windmill.

Having been to the Netherlands on many occasions and lain my eyes upon the anticipated windmills all over the country, I was surprised to not only see one in Oia and in this location, but more scattered throughout the island. This one, however, I learned is special…named El Viento, it is a century-old stone-built windmill that can be rented nightly! So…if you are a Bachelor or Bachelorette fan (then you will understand this reference)…maybe you will run into Pilot Pete here on his honeymoon one day!

Taking a glance at my watch, I realized that more time had passed than we realized! Our first day discovering Santorini had begun quite nicely, but there was so much more if we continued to head south!

For sure, more churches and more windmills!

To be continued…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ekklisia Agia Marina

  • Address: Santorini 847 00, Greece

Hellenic Culture Center

  • https://hcc.edu.gr/en/
  • Address: Megalochori, Thira 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: 0930-2030, Monday through Friday. Closed Saturday and Sunday
  • Admission: free

El Viento Windmill

A Santorini Sunset

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Santorini.

One of the most beautiful of the Greek Islands, it offers towering cliffs, lined with whitewashed villages, set amidst stunning azure waters. Having seen pictures over the years, I knew that if I had to select one Greek Island to visit, that would be it.

After picking up our rental car and making our way up the steep road to our hotel in Pyrgos, we unpacked, made a quick run to the grocery store and then stood on our patio, staring at the beautiful scenery on all sides of us. Now what?

We had three days to discover everything about this unique enclave.

My husband had spoken to the gentleman at the front desk and he had suggested heading to the north side of the island for some of the best views of the sunset. We needed to head out, it was already mid-afternoon!

Following the highway past Thera and Imerovigli and enjoying the views along the way, we finally arrived in Oia. Tour buses rolled past us and parking lots were filled to capacity. Large droves of people walked past us on the narrow roads. Finally, we found a parking spot along the roadway and walked up to the Lioyerma Lounge Cafe and Pool Bar to get a drink and our bearings.

Discovering that the view here was second to none and having had a long day of travel, we decided to remain here and enjoy some cold beers as the sun dropped lower towards the horizon.

While my husband and son enjoyed some traditional Greek appetizers, I decided to do some exploration of the area. Finding small walkways lined with colorful hyposkafa buildings, windmills, minimalist churches, sea captains’ houses, old wineries, hotels restaurants, shops and cafes, I was astounded. Everything was so picture-perfect, I felt as though I was walking through a postcard.

This was what we had come to see!

This…and a sunset.

Yes, the sun was inching closer to where the sea meets the sky, so I returned back to our table on the edge of the cliff.

The winds had increased and it was quite chilly as we toasted our good fortune to have made it to such a stunning location.

Eventually, as a cruise ship made its way out to sea, the sun dipped behind the waves, enveloping us in the gloaming.

One of the most astonishing sights I have ever laid my well-traveled eyes on.

I had always heard about the stunning Santorini sunsets.

Now, I understood.

Santorini sunsets were definitely made for proposals!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Lioyerma Lounge Cafe and Pool Bar

  • Address: Oia 847 02, Greece
  • Hours: 1000-2200, daily
  • Admission: Drinks and food for purchase. To sit at tables near the edge, for excellent sunset viewing, minimum purchase required.

Fly or Float?

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are two ways to Santorini.

Airplane.

Ferry.

Although we were anxious to get to Santorini as soon as possible, we were also curious about Greece’s ferry system. So many times while in Athens for work, I desperately wanted to head to the Port of Piraeus to catch a ferry to one of the nearby islands.

I always chickened out.

I was not sure how the port was laid out, if it would be easy to find the correct ferry or even how to purchase a ticket.

This time, we realized that we needed to try something different. We’ve traveled by plane for so long, we felt as though we needed to figure out how to travel like the locals. The bonus would be the beautiful scenery along the way!

Once we decided that our trip to Santorini was going to be on the ferry…it was time to figure it all out!

Discovering that there was more than one website offering ferry tickets, including the ferry service’s own websites, it became a matter of choosing the one which offered the best price for the class of service. Opting for Business Class tickets, we were all set. I was finally getting to go to the Greek Islands!

Now…I needed to figure out how to get to the port.

A brief discussion with my Airbnb owner gave me the confidence to take the metro. He warned of the terrible traffic near the port near departure times and since we were near the Monastiraki metro station, he explained that it was easy to take the metro straight to the port.

He was right!

Up early, we purchased our metro tickets and waited for our departing train. Twenty minutes later, we (and a LOT of other people) were exiting that same train, headed to our respective ferries.

The port was busy with arriving cars and taxis and fellow travelers pulling and carrying suitcases. We had no idea which gate our ferry was departing from and it took a bit of walking before we discovered the board with the gate assignments.

In other countries, I have taken ferries on occasion…nothing, however, had prepared me for what we would find for our trip to Santorini. Approaching the gate area, we were fascinated…this was not a ferry! It was a cruise ship!

Entering from the rear, our tickets were checked and we were directed to place our luggage in the racks in the middle of the car parking area, something I was not comfortable with, knowing that the ferry made stops at other islands before Santorini. Just exactly who was monitoring the luggage?

After heading upstairs, we were directed to our large business class seats. Noting a luggage storage rack in the front of the cabin, I immediately headed back downstairs, collected our luggage and brought it back upstairs to our location.

Making myself comfortable…leg rest up…seat back…neck pillow in place…pashmina draped around my legs…I watched the port disappear into the distance.

As I was hypnotized by the rocking of the ferry, the rolling waves, and the passing landscapes, my eyes grew heavy.

Four more hours and we will have made it to Santorini. By ferry.

And yes, it wasn’t that hard!

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Ferry Booking Websites