Belgium – Snapping The Globe

A Christmas Trio

Every year, I look forward to my layovers in December.

I bid layover in cities that are known for their outstanding Christmas markets. Covid put a damper on this tradition for a couple of years, but this year, markets were back in full swing and I had a trio to visit.

Brussels was the first on my schedule and I remembered fondly purchasing beautiful lace ornaments many years ago at the market in the city center. Setting out in the early afternoon to get a leg up on the crowds, we headed towards the Grande Place, but first wandered into the Les Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, the glass roofed arcade filled with cafes, theaters and luxury stores. Having the distinction of being the first covered shopping arcade in Europe, it attracts hundreds of visitors daily wishing to experience its beautiful architecture and unique shopping opportunities. Rather than wait for the market to purchase some of the lace ornaments I was seeking, I found some here with Christmas motifs, in the event that I did not encounter them later. The gallery was bedecked with garland, lights, Christmas trees and Santa figures, making us excited for what was to come.

Making our way into the Grande Place, we found Christmas trees both in the square and on the balcony of City Hall, but our main focus was on the life-sized nativity in the center of the square. We joined the queue of fellow visitors, lining the fenced in area to gaze upon the holy scene which depicted the birth of Jesus Christ.

Exiting the Grande Place, we followed the path of small huts erected for the occasion which offered sweets food items, drinks and a variety of gift items. My favorite hut, however, sold smoutbollen, fried donut balls coated in powder sugar, which reminded me of the beignets I usually purchase when I visit my Louisiana home.

After our snack, we headed to Place Sint-Katelijine (Place St. Catherine), an area I am well familiar with as our layover hotel was once located very near and known for its Church of Saint Catherine, the beautiful Victorian church which I wrote about in the past (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=5577).

While I had not been extremely impressed (except for the smoutbollen) with the market offerings or the markets appearance near the Grande Place, it was now growing dark and this is what I came to Brussels to see!

*Place Sint-Katelijine Christmas Market*

Two long lines of lighted Christmas huts stretched out before us, ending at the giant red-lighted Ferris wheel. There was a wide array of offerings for purchase and as we shopped our way to the end of one row, we stopped just short of the Ferris wheel to watch the Christmas carol singing moose and then to enter the warm and welcoming champagne bar! Now, I rather fancy myself a beer-kind-of-girl, but joining my friend for some champagne and conversation while we warmed ourselves near the wood-burning stove seemed so festive and I just wanted to stay here all night! However, all good things must come to an end, so we shopped our way back the way we had come and set out to find a nice welcoming Belgian restaurant for dinner while admiring the beautiful Christmas lights above the Brussels’ streets.

*Place Sint-Katelijine Christmas Market* *and Champagne Bar*

My next trip was a few days later to Madrid, Spain. I had read up on the city’s markets and was excited to learn that our hotel overlooked a very nice one just across the street in the Plaza de Espana. While I was excited to experience this particular market, the one that I had my eye on was located in the Plaza Mayor, which I had learned offered nativity sets and individual nativity items. As a collector of unique nativity sets, I was excited to find a special item from Spain.

The market in Plaza de Espana was fairly busy in the afternoon and I was tempted to take a seat in the Paulaner Biergarten for an afternoon beer. Instead, I perused the different stalls and checked out the Christmas tree before making my way on foot towards the Plaza Mayor.

Much to my surprise, I encountered a small market in the Plaza Santo Domingo, but so early in the month, only a handful of the small wooden huts were open. Continuing my walk, I happened upon the Plaza de Isabel II, with its giant metal Christmas tree decorated with red ornaments and a troop of Spanish dancers giving the onlookers a cultural treat.

*Christmas decorations and (a creepy) Santa in Madrid*

*Plaza de Isabel II Christmas Tree (day and night)*

Finally, after what seemed like miles of walking, I found the entrance to the Plaza Mayor. Still late in the afternoon, the lights were not yet illuminated, but I decided to make my way through the maze of red huts that filled the square. On the outskirts, there were many vendors selling wreaths, greenery and other Christmas décor, but each of the stalls in the interior, seemed to offer one of two things…nativity sets or Chinese junk. Indeed, I was in the market for a nativity set, but as I made my way from hut to hut, I realized that it was pretty much all the same type of figurines, in different sizes. I assumed that people purchased an initial set of a particular size and each year, purchased different pieces to add to their collection, beyond the basic setup of Jesus, Mary, Joseph, Kings, shepherds, angels and animals. With what was offered, you could create whole village scenes with running water and electric lights. While if you have the room for this and its your preference, this would be the place to find your yearly addition, however, I was not impressed with the artistry, suspecting that many of these piece were imported and not Spanish made. I didn’t give up, however, traipsing throughout the square, hoping to find an inspirational piece created in Spain, yet all I found from the vendors not selling small cheap toys, hats and odds and ends were the same resin figurines, while dodging children throwing firework poppers in my path and having to skirt parents with large strollers and visitors pushing their way through the crowd.

*Nativity Figurines in Plaza Mayor Christmas Market*

At six o’clock, the square was illuminated and I was happy to be able to see it lit up, bequeathing us all with a festive glow. Taking a quick selfie under the green Christmas tree, I headed out of the square towards Puerta del Sol. Here and there, along the way, I encountered some unique lights over the city streets and in the plaza, the golden lit Christmas tree as well as the lighted Royal Postal Service Building and its iconic clock tower.

There were so many people making their way into the plaza…police were monitoring the streets which were allowing only one-way foot traffic on some streets. Not wishing to remain in a situation, where there could be a potential problem with crowd control, I decided to make my way back home, passing by Plaza de Isabel II once again, but now with its large tree lighted in blue and red. Finally, at Plaza de Espana it was nighttime and it was lit up quite beautifully, with full \-sized lighted nativity figures and more people than I could have imagined filling the square and waiting for their opportunity to take a few turns on the ice skating rink. Seizing a few moments to appreciate the twinkling lights on the real fir Christmas tree, I decided that I had had enough of the crowds that day and it was time to retire to my hotel to rest and have a nice beer in the warmth of the lobby of my hotel, looking out on the throngs of shoppers and holidaymakers! In a few days, I would get the opportunity for the German Christmas market experience…this was the one I was most looking forward to!

*Plaza de Espana Christmas Market at night*

A few days later I was on my way to Frankfurt, Germany. I initially had grand plans of taking the train to Weisbaden and Frankfurt’s Christmas markets, but thankfully, I came to the realization that being a Saturday, all of these markets were going to be extremely crowded and it was best to be conservative with my shopping ambitions. Although I didn’t get much sleep on the airplane and only a couple of hours in my hotel when we arrived, I powered through to arrive in the nearby Mainz market during the early afternoon, first passing through the Schillerplatz which offered a small market fare with a few decorations. Though I longed to see the Mainz market lit during the nighttime hours, less crowds seemed to be a fair tradeoff by going early.

Well, I can tell you, if we had waited until the nighttime hours, there would have been no way to see what we wanted to see, purchase what we wanted to purchase or eat and drink what we wanted to eat and drink. Each booth had lines of people waiting for service and although we were able to buy our potato pancakes, candy coated almonds and gluehwein, it took a lot of perseverance and patience. I was lucky enough to snag my German beer steins quickly, but my little wooden German smoking men, took about a half hour and drinking my entire cup of gluehwein to make the purchase…same for my nativity set at the Kathe Wolhart store.

Still, it was magical, seeing the full-sized nativity, carousels, the six-tiered pyramid and other beautiful decorations. But after fighting crowds for three hours, we headed back to the hotel to meet our crew for happy hour.

A while into our cocktail enjoyment, someone looked out of the window and noticed numerous lighted vehicles passing in front of the hotel. Quickly, we all headed outside and were treated with a parade of lighted farm vehicles. We had no idea where they were coming from or where they were going, but seeing the effort that they put into lighting each one and their attempts to make each unique put us in the Christmas spirit and dissipated my disappointment in not seeing the Mainz Christmas Market lighted at night.

So there it was…a trio of Christmas markets this year, to get me into the spirit!

Next year, which cities will it be?

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Brussels Christmas Markets

https://christmasmarkets.io/belgium/brussels-christmas-market/
https://www.facebook.com/plaisirsdhiver.winterpret.winterwonders/
Address: Grand Place
Address: Place Sainte-Catherine 41, 1000 Brussels, Belgium

Madrid Christmas Markets

https://christmasmarketsineurope.com/madrid-christmas-markets/
Address: Plaza de Espana
Address: Plaza Mayor

Mainz Christmas Market

https://christmasmarketsineurope.com/mainz-christmas-market/

Venice of the North

The canal water was still, from the lack of boat traffic, as I stood along the banks of Bruges canals. I realized how much it reminded me of Amsterdam and a little of Venice. In fact, Bruges shares the title of “Venice of the North” with its neighbor, Amsterdam.

The city, which originated on the banks of the river Reie, can trace its origins back to the days of the Vikings. Officially becoming a city in 1128, the city’s medieval center, lined with historic buildings, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and attracts thousands of tourists each year.

While many of its main attractions are located in the city center, it is highly recommended to take a boat ride or stroll along the canals which were once part of Bruges’ old ramparts and city walls. From this starting point, you can venture into many of the city’s neighborhoods and less beaten paths.

Because our visit to Bruges was in January, the canal tour boats were parked for the winter season, lending to the serenity of the quieter streets of Bruges. For those who want to stroll along the canals, you can start and Zand Square and finish at the Bonifacius bridge near the Church of Our Lady, which takes you past some of the most romantic bridges of the city.

Since our time in Bruges was limited and the boats were not running, it was up to our feet to carry us throughout the city. We opted not take this particular canal walk, instead strolling along the canals when our route around the city put us there. Electing to take the quieter streets, we reveled in the beautiful styles and decoration of the homes, churches and businesses.

We encountered artwork both on the streets and in windows and there was always beer and chocolate!

Though you can take a tour with a qualified guide, you can also bike throughout the city, take a City Tour in a mini bus or even take a horse-drawn carriage. Whatever you choose, be it guided or on your own time, you will not be disappointed.

Bruges is one city that you will never forget!

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Bruges Boat Tours

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/bruggemetdeboot
Address: Boats can be boarded at one of the five landings, Michielssens and Huidenvettersplein, Coudenys and Rozenhoedkaai, De Meulemeester and Wollestraat, Gruuthuse and Nieuwstraat, Stael and Katelijnestraat
Hours: 1000-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, €10,00, Children (ages 4-11), €6,00, (ages 3 and under), free, Bruges residents, €9,00

Thrown From the Bridge

There is a statue on Prague’s Charles Bridge of Saint Johannes van Nepomuk (St. John of Nepomuk) that I have walked past many times and often rubbed the plaque at the bottom for good luck.

Everyone needs a little luck and I wouldn’t want the bridge to crumble beneath my feet, plunging me to my death into the Vltava River, right?

It is widely known that Saint Johannes van Nepomuk, a priest, was drowned in the Vltava River on the orders of Wenceslaus IV, King of the Romans and King of Bohemia. He is considered the first martyr and a protector from floods and drowning.

What I was not aware was that there are other statues of Saint Johannes van Nepomuk throughout the world including,

Monument on Cathedral Island, at the Church of the Holy Cross, Wroclaw, Poland
St. John of Nepomuk Statue in Buchach, Ukraine
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk in Divina, Slovakia
Saint Nepomuk on the Schwarzen Bridge in Loningen, Germany
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk in churchyard of the cathedral, Passau, Germany
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk in churchyard of the cathedral, Passau, Germany
Roadside figure of St. John of Nepomuk, Buchach, Ukraine
Statue on bridge of St. John Nepomuk, Wurzburg, Bavaria, Germany

When I had planned our route through Bruges, I had noticed a monument marked on my Google map as a point of interest on the Wollestraat Bridge. We had stopped to take a couple of pictures of the statue, dodging a tour guide and their group, but continued on our journey that day. It wasn’t until later when someone asked if we had seen the famous statue on the bridge that I realized it was an important landmark in Bruges.

This statue of the Saint was designed by Flemish sculptor Pieter Pepers in 1767 and appears, like most others, with a halo of five stars, which commemorate the stars that hovered over the Vltava River on the night of his murder and which are said to symbolize the five letters of the Latin word “tacet” which means silent. He is adorned in priestly robes and carries a large crucifix to which he has set his gaze upon.

What we learned was that the original statue was replaced in 1811.

Why?

It was thrown in to the Dyver Canal in 1795!

Seems that Saint Nepomuk can’t stay off of bridges or out of the river!

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Saint Johannes of Nepomuk Statue

Address: Dijver, 8000 Brugge, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Icing On the Cake

My husband likes to go to church.

For mass.

He just doesn’t like visiting them as a tourist. In fact, he feels like it’s an intrusion and a bit disrespectful.

Good Catholic guilt.

On the other hand, there is me. Raised as a Catholic and no stranger to my own religion’s institutions, there is a great admiration for architectural elements, decorative features and their history of all churches. As I walk through and examine each interior, I always think of others. Everyone should see this! I guess my love for spreading how remarkable these temples are, outweighs my Catholic guilt. Imagining that my blog posts and pictures might inspire one person to venture into a church out of curiosity, might inspire them to stay…for good…no matter the religion.

While in Bruges, there were many churches that I would have loved to investigate. I knew that getting my husband to see one church during our short visit was probable. Two…slim. Three…not going to happen, especially when there was so many other things to see.

Having already visited the Basilica of the Holy Blood, I stared wistfully at each church that we passed, wondering what lay inside. As we made our way through the main square, in the waning light, we stopped inside a few chocolaterias, searching for decadent souvenirs.

As we headed in the direction of the train station, I spied the tower of Saint Salvator Cathedral (Sint-Salvatorskathedraal) ahead on the right. Realizing that it was the end of the day, I consoled myself with the knowledge that it was probably already closed.

Surprisingly, as I stopped to take a picture of the exterior, my husband suggested that we see if it was still open…

It was!

Saint Salvator’s, the main church of the city, was originally built during the 10th century as a parish church in the shadow of St. Donatian’s Cathedral. St. Donatian’s was located opposite the city hall and was the religious heart of the community, but was destroyed by fire in 1116. A new church was constructed in 1127 and a century later, the lengthy construction of the present church was begun only to be destroyed by the French occupiers of Bruges in the 18th century.

After Belgium obtained its independence in 1830, Saint Salvator was given the status of cathedral and became the main church of the Catholic population. Because of its smaller size, however, renovations were required to elevate it to its higher status and one of the main features is its tall tower dating from the 12th century which outshines the nearby Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk, the Church of Our Lady.

Entering the cathedral, we made our way throughout the ornate interior, noting some of the exquisite furnishings. There are many works of art originally stored in Saint Donatian’s cathedral and original paintings that the wall carpets (that can be viewed at the entrance) were modeled on and originally commissioned for Saint Donatian’s.

Some of its other treasures include its organ which was completed in 1719 and expanded and rebuilt three times in the 20th century. In the choir, the original 16th century podium can be regarded as well as a baroque fence made by Artus Quellinus the Younger.

Inside the cathedral’s south transept, there is the church Treasury which displays jewelry, reliquaries and objects used in religious services, however, in the interest of time, we were unable to visit. Before our exit, however, we did take note in the front of the church, the medieval tombs that were unearthed during renovations during 1989-1993. These 14th century tombs are covered in plexiglass and brightly painted in the style that was typical of Flanders in that period.

As we stepped out into the evening to make our way back to the train station, I glanced back at the soaring tower of the church. With all that we had seen in the city, being able to sneak in a visit to the Cathedral was icing on the cake!

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Cathedral of Bruges (Saint Salvatore’s Cathedral)

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/sint-salvatorskathedraal-saint-saviours-cathedral
Address: Sint-Salvatorskoorstraat 8, 8000 Bruges
Hours: Monday-Friday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1730. Saturday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1530. Sunday, 1130-1200 and 1400-1700. January 1, May 21, December 24-25, 1000-1300.
Admission: free

The Most Holy Relic

Burg Square in Bruges is certainly on any tourists’ agenda with its spectacularly adorned buildings that circumscribe the plaza. In the 9th century, Burg Square became the base of operations for the Count of Flanders and the buildings were occupied by the courts of law for nearly 200 years. Here, you can still find the 14th century City Hall, the old Court of Justice built in the Renaissance style and the Basilica of the Holy Blood.

Did someone say Basilica?

If I had to choose only one church to visit in Bruges, it was definitely going to be this one that features one of the most holy relics…that of Jesus Christ’s blood.

Actually consisting of two churches, dedicated to Our Lady and to Saint Basil, the structure, located in the corner of Burg Square, dates back to the 12th century when it was the chapel of the residence of the Count of Flanders.

As we stood in the square, I was dumbfounded by the resplendent architecture rising boastfully before us. Finally turning our attention to the flamboyant staircase that leads to the upper basilica, we excitedly climbed to the apex and tried the door, anxious to see what lay inside. Frustrated, we found the door to be locked. Searching out the signboard, we discovered that the basilica is closed during the mid-day hours.

Returning later, we once again ascended the steps to the entryway and thankfully, found the door unlocked and we entered the topmost of the two chapels that make up the Basilica.

Decorated in the neo-Gothic style, we discovered it to be dimly lit but exceptionally ornamented. My eyes were first drawn to the beautifully colored stain glass windows and then the altar, which disappointingly, was under renovation, its view consumed by scaffolding. Nevertheless, I thought it to be quite breathtaking. My attention was then drawn to the side chapel where a priest was standing behind an altar. A line had formed at the rear of the church leading to the altar and on it, I realized was the relic of the Holy Blood of Jesus Christ.

This sacred relic is said to be the blood of Jesus Christ on a cloth that was used to wipe his body by Joseph of Arimathea after the Crucifixion. The relic was given to the Count of Flanders, Diederik van de Elzas, by the King of Jerusalem after the Second Crusade. The Count took the relic from the Holy Land to Bruges, arriving on April 7, 1150 and placed it in the chapel. The relic is preserved in a rock crystal vial which is placed in a small glass cylinder capped with a golden crown at each end. The relic is kept in an imposing silver tabernacle with a sculpture of the Lamb of God.

Because we were not sure of the proper protocol, we sat for a few moments and observed the actions of the other visitors. Finally, we stepped up onto the altar, deposited an offering and laid our eyes on the sacred artifact. Our veneration was short and sweet and we walked away with our belief in the validity of the object.

Taking one last look around, we made our way to the Museum which houses the treasury. There are many interesting objects on display that are tied to the history of the chapel or the relic including the Shrine of the Precious Blood, golden statues representing Christ the Savior, The Virgin, St. Donatian and St. Basil and a small silver crown which belonged to Mary of Burgundy. Paintings include the Scenes of the Life of St. Barbara (around 1480) by the Master of the Barbara Legend, The Burial of Christ (1519), a triptych attributed to the Master of the Precious Blood, Christ Bearing the Cross, another triptych, His Being Speared and His Resurrection (16th century) and two panels painted in 1556 by Peter Pourbus entitled the 31 Members of the Noble Brotherhood of the Holy Blood. There are also six medallions carved in oak which represent scenes of Christ’s life, and a large tapestry which dates back to 1637 that depicts the transfer of the relics of St. Augustine from Africa to Sardinia.

Making our way back down the staircase, we found the second part of the church, the Romanesque Chapel of St. Basil. It was such a contrast, stepping inside this chapel, as it couldn’t be more different than what we had just visited. While the Chapel of the Holy Blood was ornate and blossoming with color, the Chapel of St. Basil was very austere and dark. The only Romanesque church in West Flanders, it dates back to the first half of the 12th century. Established by Derrick, Count of Alsace, it was dedicated to St. Basil the Great and constructed to house his relic brought from Caesarea during the Crusades. This relic, along with the relic of Charles the Good, can be found at the left of the choir in the chapel of Saint Yves. The chapel is small and feels extremely closed in with its low vaulted ceiling and brick archways, but there is something extremely important in the right aisle. A wooden statue of the Madonna and Child dates back to 1306 and is the central focus of the procession along with the relic of the Holy Blood, held each year during on Ascension Day in the city. During the procession, the bishop of Bruges carries the relic of the Holy Blood through the streets, accompanied by the Madonna and Child statue and costumed residents dramatizing biblical scenes. Two additional statues, Jesus on the Cold Stone and the Pieta are also carried in the procession. This cavalcade dates back to 1291 and still follows the route established in 1578 when it was changed due to the religious wars.

Having seen pictures of the religious procession, it reminded me of the processions I witnessed last year in Guatemala, yet more festive, and I made a mental note to mark my calendar for the next year’s events.

Both chapels contain many treasures, but the sacred relic is truly the treasure of Bruges.

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Basilica of the Holy Blood

http://www.holyblood.com/?lang=en
Address: Basilica of the Holy Blood Burg 13, 8000 Bruges
Hours: 0930-1230 and 1400-1730, daily. Closed January 1 and January 13-January 18.
Mass Times: Daily, also on Sunday and Holy Days, at 1100 except Monday.
Veneration of the Holy Blood relic: Every morning 1130 till 1200 and every afternoon from 1400-1600. Fridays and Sundays after 1100 Mass.
Admission: Basilica and Chapel, free. Treasury/Museum, €2,50

Burg Square

https://www.visitbruges.be/highlights/burg
Address: Hoogstraat and Breidelstraat, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Walks, Winds and Ways

If spending time outdoors while visiting Bruges is more interesting than fighting other tourists for space in a museum or a crowded bar, there is much to keep you busy.

Spectacular architecture fills the city at every turn but if you are looking for a lovely place to stroll, exercise or even enjoy a picnic, head over to the eastern side of Bruges.

Aware that Belgium has a rich mill history dating back to the 16th century when twenty-three windmills graced the city, I was anxious to set aside some time during our visit to see the four mills that dot the city’s landscape and once produced the flour needed for the daily diet of the urban population.

Heading from the city center, it took us about fifteen minutes to reach the first windmill, located near the Kruispoort gate, which is quite fascinating in itself. The Kruispoort was completed in 1304 and rebuilt a short time later in 1366. It was destroyed in 1382 when Philip van Artevelde captured the city with the Ghent militia. The gate was reconstructed in 1400 with the two heavy towers and a narrow passage being preserved. It should be noted that this was the location where the Scottish soldiers crossed into Bruges during the city’s liberation during World War 2.

The Kruispoort gate is one of four remaining gates to the city. The others, Gentpoort (on the eastern side), Ezelpoort (dating back to 1369) and Smedenpoort (dating back to 1368) are all worth a visit when walking the entire circuit around the city. The Dampoort, probably the most noteworthy due to its massive size (a complex of three interconnected gates), was demolished in 1871, but a part of one of the round towers is still visible.

Ezelpoort, located on Ezelstraat on the crossing of Ezelstraat and the Gulden-Vlieslaan

Gentpoort, located on Gentpoortstraat on the crossing of the Gentpoorstraat, Boninvest and Gentpoortvest

Smedenpoort (The Blacksmith’s Gate), located at the end of Smedenstraat on the crossing of the Smedenstraat and Buiten Boninvest

After walking through the Kruispoort, we began our walk along the ramparts and the canal to examine each of the windmills.

The first we encountered was Bonne Chiere also known as Staakmolen or Post Mill. Originally built in 1844 and then rebuilt at its current location in its same architectural style, this mill was never used for grinding grain. It is not open for visitors, however, you can walk right up to the structure for excellent views.

Sint-Janshuismill was located a short walk away. Built in 1770, this is the only mill standing on its original location and the only one open to the public. The wooden flour mill is still in operation.

A little further, we encountered Nieuwe Papegaai. Originally built in 1790 as an oil mill called the Hoge Seinemolen, this mill was moved to its current location in 1970. Similar to the other mills, this one has one a quirky piece of art perched on its roof…a parrot!

Finally, we reached the fourth and final windmill, Koeleweimolen, also known as the Coelewey Mill which was used for grinding corn. This mill was transported from Meulebeke where it was constructed in 1765.

Although it would have been nice to walk the entire circuit around the city to see the other gates, time was not on our side. It was fascinating, however, to witness some of historical construction outside of the city center and the picturesque scenes along the canal.

Besides, who doesn’t love a windmill?

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Kruispoort

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/kruispoort-kruispoort-gate
Address: Langestraat 191 , Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located on Langestraat on the crossing of Langestraat, Kruisvest and Kazernevest.

Ezelpoort

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/ezelpoort-donkeys-gate
Address: Ezelstraat 122 , Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located on Ezelstraat on the crossing of Ezelstraat and the Gulden-Vlieslaan.

Geentpoort

Address: Gentpoortvest, Bruges 8000 Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located on Gentpoortstraat on the crossing of the Gentpoorstraat, Boninvest and Gentpoortvest.

Smedenpoort

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/smedenpoort-blacksmiths-gate
Address: Buiten de Smedenpoort 1, Bruges 8000 Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located at the end of Smedenstraat on the crossing of the Smedenstraat and Buiten Boninvest.

Bonne-Chieremolen

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 5, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: No visitors allowed inside.

Sint-Janshuismill

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 3, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: May 21-31, 0930-1300. June-September, 0930-1230 and 1300-1700, Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Monday.
Admission: Adults, €4.00, Seniors 65+, €3.00, Youth (ages 18-25), €3.00, Children (ages 0-17), free

Nieuwe Papegaai

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 3, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: No visitors allowed inside.

Koeleweimolen

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 11, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: No visitors allowed inside.

Nothing To Sea

With a location near the North Sea, how could you not expect to get the freshest seafood in Bruges?

The Vismarkt, also known as the Fish Market, is centrally located near Burg Square and is the place to purchase the freshest fish and seafood in the city. The current location, dating back to 1821, was erected following the townspeople’s request to move it from Market Square, where the smell was overwhelming. The building was constructed, per Napoleon’s order to the city mayor to modernize public facilities, and still remains in excellent condition.

Though it would have been nice to see the market in action, we visited on a Monday, one of the two days the market is closed. The covered arcade usually bustles with fishmongers hawking their catch and sometimes artists and artisans displaying their creations. If you have to pick a day to visit, however, Friday nights, during summer, offer live concerts and open-air tapas bars with fish based snacks.

For those interested in the history of the city and hoping to get something for dinner, combine it with a walk along the scenic canal and a photo op with the bust of former mayor Frank Van Acker.

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Vismarkt

Address, Groenerei Canal, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 0800-1330
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus, 4, 6, 14, 16, 88

Nothing But Torture

When you are on a romantic weekend with your spouse, visiting a Torture Museum is not what one normally thinks of…unless maybe you are Christian Grey.

So maybe those with certain fetishes might enjoy this kind of setting or if you are upset with your spouse and searching for ways to make him suffer for not mowing the lawn, it might be of interest.

Seriously though, crazy experiences shared together are what you look back on and laugh at later!

As my husband and I were investigating the streets of Bruges, we happened upon this museum. Though it wasn’t high on my list of things to see, we ultimately decided that it might be thought-provoking.

The Torture Museum, located in a former fortress designed to protect Bruges, later became one of the oldest historical European prisons. During the 14th century, it became known as the “Old Stone” or “Oude Steen”.

The museum is a chronological maze of more than 100 torture devices, often displayed with realistic wax figures. As we made our way from the opening act, Vlad the Impaler, with a head firmly planted on the top of a spear, to various contraptions such as the Rack, the Cat’s Paw and the Drunkard’s Cloak, it was obvious that committing crimes, even petty ones, during medieval times, was something to ponder seriously as the punishments were so severe. These instruments were engineered to cause unbelievable humiliation, pain and suffering on the human body and mind.

Many of these devices we recognized from books and television shows but some were new. The method of peine forte et dure (hard and forceful punishment) was a form of torture which inflicted punishment on those accused of a felony, but who would neither plead guilty or not guilty. The accused was placed under a board upon which heavier and heavier stones were arranged until either a plea was entered or the defendant died from suffocation.

The Heretic’s Fork was an abominable tool resembling a two-way steel fork with sharp spikes that was attached by a leather belt to the victim’s neck. It was often used for charges of heresy and witchcraft. Just thinking about moving your chin…ouch!

Another that I though quite interesting, and not so gruesome, was the Straw Plait. A heavy plait of hair, that was braided from straw, was woven into the hair of a woman for offences that referred to feminine dignity, such as low necklines or seductive gaits. Though not a severe punishment, it is imaginable that this heavy addition to the head would prove to be cumbersome.

The Violin Gossip gave me a good laugh as I imagined two quarreling women secured into this contraption, facing each other and unable to escape each’s presence. This was an instrument used often to punish gossipers and to settle quarrels.

And of course, there was the guillotine, ever ready with a woven basket awaiting a bloody addition and a variety of other tools and executioner’s outfits. The most horrific, in my opinion, was Rat Torture. Though I have seen this depicted in horror and gangster movies, to see a wax figure in a former dungeon portraying this form of torture is disturbing to say the least. For those who do not know what this cheap and effective torment entails, let me describe it for you. Imagine the victim completely restrained and tied to the ground or another surface. A rat is then placed on their stomach and covered by a metallic container. As the container is heated, the rat then begins to look for a way out. Since the container is too hard to dig through…well…

Wandering through this former prison, though gruesome at times, was a dark journey through time when torture was a widespread form of punishment. One of the most intriguing museums that we have ever visited, we learned a great deal about the discipline and persecution experienced from the 13th to 18th centuries.

And no, there wasn’t anything that I thought would be suitable to use as punishment for my husband making me angry!

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Torture Museum Bruges “Oude Steen”

http://torturemuseum.be/
Address: Wollestraat 29, 8000 Brugge, Belgium
Hours: 1030-1800, daily. Open until 2100 during July and August
Admission: Adults, €8, Students, €6, Seniors (aged 60+), €7, Groups, €6

No Bats In This Belfrey

There is a movie called In Bruges.

Ever hear of it?

I will admit, I have never seen it, but for some reason, I was always intrigued with the idea of visiting Bruges.

My stays in Belgium have always consisted of a short twenty-four hours in Brussels, leaving me to think that I never had enough time to travel to Bruges, after my oh-so-important nap…after flying all night. When my husband and I decided to take a trip to Brussels for a few days, he was informed that plan number one included a day trip to Bruges.

After an hour’s train ride, we arrived in Bruges and made our way toward the city’s center. I had done a bit of legwork and made a list of some things that would be of interest to both my husband and I.

Having a quick bite (Belgian waffles, of course!), we sat in the cozy little cafe and gaze out into the Market Square, centered with a statue paying tribute to Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck, leaders of the Bruges Matin, an uprising against the French in the 14th. The square is surrounded by beautiful and historic architecture including the Provincial Court building and the majestic Belfort.

The Belfort was where we were going to start our exploration, though knowing that 366 steps to the top was involved…I was a bit apprehensive. But dressed for the occasion in my most comfortable boots, I was ready to see what this historic landmark would offer.

The 13th century Belfort is one of the three historically important towers of Bruges (with the Church of Our Lady and St. Saviour’s Cathedral) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Standing 83 meters high, the tower formerly housed a treasury, the municipal archives and served as an observation post for spotting fires, invaders and other dangers.

As we entered the former market hall, we climbed the stairs to the second level where the ticket counter is located. After purchasing our tickets, we were required to wait at the turnstile until it was unlocked and let us through…this was after two other people left the tower. One in, one out. It is unimaginable how lengthy the lines must become during the busier summer months!

Beginning our climb, we took it slowly and were happy to have a break when we reached the former Treasury. Here, the privileges, city’s charters, city’s seal and its accounts and funds were stored in this vaulted room from the thirteenth century onward. These precious documents were stored in padlocked chests behind the heavy wrought iron doors.

The belfry was also a meeting location for the town aldermen and was the preferred location for proclamations. These announcements were read from the balcony of the hall tower.

Continuing our climb, we headed upward to the next part of the tower which offered an explanation of how time was measured, how this process evolved over time and its importance to the citizens of Bruges. In this medieval city, the sound of the bells ruled the lives of its citizens and were used as a way of organizing their daily routines. Combinations of the pitches of these bells let citizens know exactly what was the time of day and what events were to take place. For example, the work bell was rung for the start of the working day, the noon bell signaled time for a lunch break and the evening bell marked the hour when the city’s gates were closed. The ringing of the bells also marked certain occasions such as a call to battle, the outbreak of fire, proclamations, public executions or the beginning and end of market days. The tower guards, who were responsible for sounding the bells, often passed the time between the hours, practicing their trades. A job often held by cobblers, you can probably imagine many a shoe was created here.

Today, Bruges has a city carillonneur who plays the bells on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 1100 to noon. If you are visiting during the summer months, keep your ears pealed for special carillon concerts.

Taking a deep breath, we ascended the stairs to reach the Drum Room which not only displayed some of the ten great bells that have graced the tower since 1280, but the largest, brought over from the Church of Our Lady. This great bell weighs approximately six tons and has a diameter of almost seven feet. The drum is the largest in existence and thought to weigh nine tons. It plays a melody every quarter of the hour and every half hour is marked with a short musical signal. Every two years, the music is changed. The clock, which can be spied from the square below, was made in 1748 and is operated by a three meter long pendulum.

Finally (and breathlessly), we reached the top of the tower in which the bells can be seen hanging from the rafters. This is the spot which you really appreciate the three hundred sixty-six steps that you just climbed! Unparalleled views of the city are like no other.

Heading back down was much easier than than the climb to the top, however, it was took a bit of maneuvering when encountering those heading upwards, as the circular stairways were quite narrow.

As we both exited the tower, I looked to my right at the line that had formed near the ticket counter. The light turned green, the turnstile unlocked and two other eager visitors moved through, ready to make the climb.

We walked out to the square and took a look upward, seeing from the exterior what we had just seen from the inside. This ancient tower that actually leans eighty-seven centimeters to the east and has played an important role in its citizens’ lives for centuries…

Now I really need to go and watch In Bruges to see it from another perspective!

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Bruges Belfort (Belfry and Carillon)

https://www.museabrugge.be/en/visit-our-museums/our-museums-and-monuments/belfort
Address: Markt 7 , Brugge
Hours: 0930-1800, daily. Closed January 1, December 25 and March 12. Closed at 1300 on May 21 and at 1600 on December 24 and 31.
Admission: Adults, €12,00, Seniors 65+, €10,00, Children (ages 0-5 years), €0,00, Youth (ages 5-25 years), €10,00

The Bread House

Standing tall in the Grand Place of Brussels, there are two grandiose buildings facing each other that set the tone for the city’s majestic square.

Each is so intricate and beautiful, and I have captured both photographically many times. If you had asked me prior to my last trip, if I knew what each was, however, I would honestly have had to say absolutely not!

On one side, you have Brussels’ City Hall and on the other side is the Broodhuis (Bread House), a UNESCO World Heritage Site which houses the Brussels City Museum. I thought that my husband might have enjoyed visiting City Hall, however, after entering the courtyard and the ticket office, we were informed that the next English tour would not be until later that afternoon. Since we had other plans for later in the day, we decided that the tour would have to wait.

Moving onward, we headed over to Manneken Pis and then the museum that acts as his own personal closet, Garderobe Manneken Pis. As we purchased our admission, we were given the option to buy the combination ticket which also allowed access into the Broodhuis. Mulling over the decision, I learned something that I never knew. The Manneken Pis that every one goes to see (including us) is an IMPOSTER! The real Manneken Pis, for security reasons, is kept in the Broodhuis.

This cemented our decision…we were heading there next!

Once a wooden bread market building built in the 13th century, the Broodhuis was replaced by the Duke of Brabant during the 15th century. While City Hall symbolized the city’s independence, the new Broodhouis was designed to be a symbol of his power.

Also known as the Maison du Roi (King’s House), named for the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, who once owned the Bread House, the building was destroyed in the 16th century and rebuilt in the 19th century in the Gothic Revival style that we see today.

As we made our way through the Broodhuis, we learned a great deal about Brussels’ history. There is much attention given to arts, crafts, archaeology and folklore. One complete room was devoted to casts made from the sculptures from the exterior of the building. It was interesting to be able to see what these sculptural entities, only seen from afar, look like up close. Other rooms, gave particular attention to artifacts, tapestries, models and paintings.

What I loved most about this museum, however, was that for all the beauty that can be spied from the outside, the architectural detail is carried on throughout the interior. Carved doorways, stair railings and vaulted ceilings grace the spaces and as I walked from floor to floor, I couldn’t help but gasp at the light illuminating the intricate stained glass windows.

As astounded as we were to inspect this historic space, however, we really had come to see one thing in particular.

Would the REAL Manneken Pis, please stand up?

Okay, he’s already standing…I just really wanted to use that phrase! But seriously, where was he? As we made our way throughout the museum, we kept expecting to turn each corner and find him. Well, you know how this sort of thing works…naturally, he would be placed in the furthest room on the highest floor!

Finally, we discovered him, alone in a glass case. It was almost anticlimactic as I’m so used to seeing his doppelganger set inside his shell-shaped alcove surrounded by hundreds of his adoring fans.

But, alas, we had found him (the REAL him) set inside one of Brussels’ most historic edifices! SO…with the price of a ticket, you have access to two of the city’s most important treasures!

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Brussels City Museum

http://www.brusselscitymuseum.brussels/en
Address: Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles, Grand-Place, 1000 Bruxelles
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Closed on Mondays, January 1, May 1, November 1, November 11 and December 25
Admission: Adults ages 18+, 4€. Under age 18 and citizens of Brussels, free. Free with Brussels card and on the first Sunday of the month. You can purchase a combined ticket for both the Garderobe Manneken Pis and the BrusselsCity Museum, 8€.
Getting There: Bourse tram stop, #3 or #4, , Bus, #48 or #95, Metro, Central Station / Brouckère, Train, Central Station