bridges – Snapping The Globe

The Long Awaited Ride

My first trip to Venice was over twenty years ago. After making a list of all the things I wanted to do and see during my visit, I remember what topped the list…a gondola ride.

When I arrived, I was mesmerized by the canals, the architecture, the shops, the museums, the squares, the food…basically everything around me! There was a picture on every corner and I desperately wanted to share the experience with my family, but not just through pictures.

That gondola ride?

It dawned on me how special it could be and it was something that I wanted to also share with my family…one day. So, I waited.

And waited.

And waited some more.

More than twenty years passed and the only gondola ride I ever took was on a traghetto, one of large gondolas that are used by locals and tourists to cross the Grand Canal, especially where there are none of the four bridges to cross its width. While it satisfied my desire to mark that item off of my bucket list, it didn’t cost much (about fifty cents at that time) and it was fun, I still desired that opportunity to have someone significant to share a real gondola ride with.

My husband’s and my anniversary and my birthday (which are a day apart) was coming up and we decided to take a weekend trip to Venice. After some exploration of the city, we found ourselves near the location of the Traghetto San Toma. We needed to cross the Grand Canal, so we dug out the 2 euros and waited to take our place on board. It was a quick crossing, but it gave my husband a taste of what was to come.

The day wore on as we traversed the city and I kept an eye out for the perfect place and time to hire a gondola…not just a traghetto. Having just returned on the water taxi from Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, we were trying to decide what our next move was. Crossing a small bridge, I noticed a sign advertising the price of the gondola ride at this location.

It was time!

After making an arrangement with the gondolier, we stepped gingerly into the beautifully carved black vessel, took our seats and were off, the gondolier poling us expertly away from the dock.

Gliding through the still waters of the small canal, we admired the passing architecture and listened as our gondolier, Giovanni, regaled us with the story of how the profession had been handed down to him from his father…he was the fourth generation of gondolieri!

It was interesting to learn how under a Venetian law, one must have been born in Venice to become a gondolier. Gondoliers go through rigorous training and must pass rowing and swimming tests as well as spend 12-18 months at an “arte del gondiliere” school where they take courses in a foreign language, Venetian history and culture, geography and rowing. Prospective gondolieri complete 400 hours of training before taking their exams and then they are able to register as a substitute gondolier, work the traghetti and join the exclusive 1000 year old Gondoliers Guild. Only 425 gondolier licenses are awarded by the city and each license is linked to a particular gondola station, so the gondoliers work in the same location.

With such a personable and informative gondolier, we were lucky that we had found that particular station!

The gondola that was our transportation for a half an hour was much like the rest that cruised the Venetian canals… wooden and ebony colored as it has been the since a law was passed in the 17th century. Before this time, the hand-made, flat-bottomed boats were painted in bright, bold colors until a Venetian doge ordered them all to be painted black. Each is 35-feet long and weighs more than 1100 pounds, but the most interesting thing I learned was that the port side of the gondola is nine inches wider than the starboard side so that the gondolier can stand there for balance.

As other gondolas passed in close proximity, I noticed that some wore red striped shirts and some wore blue, a uniform completed with dark blue or black trousers and black shoes. Giovanni explained that the Guild regulates the uniform of the gondolieri and that the emblem of the Gondoliers is embroidered on the shirts and jackets. While he didn’t wear a straw hat with a ribbon, I noticed others that did, discovering that they were optional.

While all of this was fascinating, it was just nice to relax and enjoy the moment, one that had been years in the making. The best part was that not only was I getting the ride that I had waited so long for with my husband, it was on our twenty-ninth wedding anniversary!

Now that was worth waiting for!

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Gondola Rides in Venice

https://www.introducingvenice.com/gondola-rides
Address: Locations throughout the city
€80 (about US$ 81.30). The price goes up to €100 (about US$ 101.60) from 7 pm onwards. If you want the gondolier to sing or to play an instrument during the ride, you will have to pay extra.

Venice of the North

The canal water was still, from the lack of boat traffic, as I stood along the banks of Bruges canals. I realized how much it reminded me of Amsterdam and a little of Venice. In fact, Bruges shares the title of “Venice of the North” with its neighbor, Amsterdam.

The city, which originated on the banks of the river Reie, can trace its origins back to the days of the Vikings. Officially becoming a city in 1128, the city’s medieval center, lined with historic buildings, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and attracts thousands of tourists each year.

While many of its main attractions are located in the city center, it is highly recommended to take a boat ride or stroll along the canals which were once part of Bruges’ old ramparts and city walls. From this starting point, you can venture into many of the city’s neighborhoods and less beaten paths.

Because our visit to Bruges was in January, the canal tour boats were parked for the winter season, lending to the serenity of the quieter streets of Bruges. For those who want to stroll along the canals, you can start and Zand Square and finish at the Bonifacius bridge near the Church of Our Lady, which takes you past some of the most romantic bridges of the city.

Since our time in Bruges was limited and the boats were not running, it was up to our feet to carry us throughout the city. We opted not take this particular canal walk, instead strolling along the canals when our route around the city put us there. Electing to take the quieter streets, we reveled in the beautiful styles and decoration of the homes, churches and businesses.

We encountered artwork both on the streets and in windows and there was always beer and chocolate!

Though you can take a tour with a qualified guide, you can also bike throughout the city, take a City Tour in a mini bus or even take a horse-drawn carriage. Whatever you choose, be it guided or on your own time, you will not be disappointed.

Bruges is one city that you will never forget!

For more pictures, check out Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Bruges Boat Tours

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/bruggemetdeboot
Address: Boats can be boarded at one of the five landings, Michielssens and Huidenvettersplein, Coudenys and Rozenhoedkaai, De Meulemeester and Wollestraat, Gruuthuse and Nieuwstraat, Stael and Katelijnestraat
Hours: 1000-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, €10,00, Children (ages 4-11), €6,00, (ages 3 and under), free, Bruges residents, €9,00

Cross That Bridge When You Come To It!

Train travel in Switzerland is easy.

Efficient and far-reaching, it’s easy to go out and explore all that the country has to offer.

Having recently gotten a taste of venturing out to another city in Switzerland, I was ready for more! So…it was off to the train station to see what else I could discover.

The winner on this particular day?

Lucerne. Located only an hour from Zurich, it is an easy trip, albeit expensive, for the short time I had to spend there. The small city is known for its preserved medieval architecture, imposing mountains and beautiful Lake Lucerne.

History, architecture and nature! I couldn’t wait!

As we arrived at the modern train station, we anxiously peeked out in hopes that the blues skies that had been promised in the forecast were visible above.

No such luck.

A cool afternoon, it was quite overcast, the dim gray skies exaggerated by the dwindling light of the approaching winter season, yet, we anxiously ventured out, eager to see what the city would present.

When I had researched the Swiss city, the picture that I came across most often was of the beautiful bridges that span the River Reuss in the colorful Alstadt (Old Town).

This is what I most wanted to see and as luck would have it, they were extremely close to the station.

A quick two minute walk, past the archway (welcoming us to Lucerne) and a festive carousel brought us to the river. Just like in the pictures, here it was…the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge)! I was aware that the bridge was beautiful from its exterior, yet when we set foot inside, I found out that so much more was to be discovered.

The 17th century, covered, diagonal footbridge links the Aldstadt to the Reuss River’s right bank. Destroyed by fire in 1993, it has been restored to it original beauty and is the oldest wooden, covered, truss bridge in Europe.

Named after St. Peter’s Chapel, located nearby, the bridge gives off the feeling of an ancient church, with its dark wood structure and ancient wood paneled paintings. These paintings, dating back to the 17th century, were created by local Catholic painter, Hans Heinrich Wägmann, during the Counter-Reformation. Though most of the originals, depicting events from Lucerne’s history, were destroyed in the devastating fire, about 30 were fully restored and command your full attention, sometimes requiring you to step to the side to allow those traversing the walkway to pass, while you spend a few moments studying each panel. These panels display the life and death of Lucerne’s patron saints, St. Leger and St. Maurice.

Also part of the bridge complex is the Wasserturm, or water tower, which stands proudly in the waters of the Reuss. Built about 30 years before the bridge’s construction, the tower has served as a prison, torture chamber and a municipal archive. Today, the tower houses a local artillery association and a tourist gift shop, however, it does not host visitors, except those seeking Swiss mementos.

Truly the symbol of Lucerne, I was awe-struck by the Kapellbrücke’s grand beauty, enhanced by the bright pink flowers that line its periphery. Once we crossed the bridge, assisted some beautiful young Japanese travelers with memorable photos and grabbed a quick beer in the nearby pub, it was time to head up the river to the other venerable structure which crossses Lake Lucerne’s tributary.

Linking the left and right banks of the River Reuss is the Spreuerbrücke. The Spreuerbrücke, or Spreuer Bridge, earning its name from the chaffs of wheat which were thrown in the river here, dates back to 1408 and was part of the city’s fortification. The bridge was constructed to connect the Mühlenplatz (Mill Place) on the right bank with the mills in the middle of the river.

From 1626 and for the next nine years, Kaspar Meglinger decorated the triangular panels in the bridge with 67 paintings that represent the Danse Macabre, leading everyone to understand that death is everywhere. Forty-five of the originals are still in existence today and contain the coat of arms of the donor in the lower left corner and coat of arms of the donor’s wife in the right. These paintings also contain portraits of the donors and explanations and the names of the donors.

Not the original bridge, the Spreüerbrucke was destroyed in 1566 by floodwaters but rebuilt with an added grain storehouse as the bridge head called the Herrenkeller. A small chapel can also be found in the middle of the bridge, a spot also marked with a crucifix mounted on the outside of the structure.

After crossing the Spreüerbrucke, though we wandered alongside the river, the third bridge was not to be found…the Hofbrücke, which once existed, was demolished in the 19th century.

Life in Lucerne revolves around its proximity to water as is evident by the Old Town’s location on the river’s banks. It’s easy to spend time perusing the historic homes, embellished with frescoes, that line the waterfront, browsing the watch and souvenir shops or dining at one of the many restaurants while watching joggers run by and swans glide gracefully in the clear, glacial water.

Though there was much more to explore in lovely Lucerne, I was glad that we had started with the bridges, the symbols of the city. Yet, our day wasn’t over. We had so much more to discover!

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Kapellbrücke

Address: Kapellbrücke, 6002 Luzern, Switzerland
Hours: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
Admission: free

Spreuer Bridge

Address: 6004 Lucerne, Switzerland
Hours: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
Admission: free

Hang’em High, Hang’em Low

Adventure…its everywhere in Costa Rica!

Just around the mountain from our hotel, outside La Fortuna, was a park full of adventure…Mistico Hanging Bridges Park.

The park’s main attraction is its swinging bridges, high above the rain forest, but the park also has other types of adventurous activities. Afraid of heights? You can stay closer to the ground…say, on horseback.

Mistico Hanging Bridges Park was once a vast area of farmland. At the beginning of the 20th century, the proprietors of the acreage, husband and wife, Landelina Rodriguez Sánchez and Adrian Castilla, realized the value of their land and its natural resources. Deciding to keep the wooded portion of the mountain intact, they decided to open the forest sanctuary to the public at the beginning of the 21st century. Development of the hanging bridges and trails followed which would allow visitors to enjoy the forest’s beauty comfortably and safely while protecting the flora and fauna.

As we arrived at the park, the rain was coming down at a steady rate, but it was to be expected…it is a rain forest after all and the area receives between 74 and 178 inches annually. Donning our rain jackets, we grabbed an umbrella, paid our admission and waiting for our admission time. (Admission times are spaced to avoid congestion on the trails and bridges).

By the time our admission time had arrived, the rain had stopped, leaving everything damp and fresh. We followed the wet paved trail into the park, admiring the delicate flowers and plants still covered in water droplets. Following the colorful map provided by the park, we first found ourselves in the Rufous Gardens, a level circuit with exquisite flowers, trees and places to rest and enjoy the view.

Leaving the gardens, we made our way on to the main trail, winding our way steadily up the mountainside, crossing a few fixed bridges along the way. A short time later, we found our way to the first hanging bridge. A bit of a back log had us waiting a while to pass over…workers monitor the bridge and allow a limited number to cross the bridge at one time. Unfortunately, there are those who are not as considerate of other’s time and paused one to many times to take selfies and pictures of the surrounding area.

Finally, we made our way as steadily as possible across the shaky span, marveling at the clouds swirling around the treetops. From the bridges and the higher parts of the trails, epiphyte plants, birds, mammals and butterflies can be observed up close. Some of the high altitude birds include the bell bird and the Emerald Toucanette, while at lower elevations, toucans and turkey hens can be spied along with migratory birds of prey during the months from November to February. High altitude trees include Yema Huevo, Cirri and Pilon trees and in the lower regions, Caobilla, Fruta Dorada and Maquenque trees. Keep an eye out for frogs, snakes, lizards and mammels such as kinkajous, raccoons, margays, ocelots, pumas, jaguars and tapirs.

The trail spans almost two miles and can be covered in about two hours. Six more hanging bridges are spaced out on the trail, along with a waterfall and viewing area and a tunnel. Each of the bridges vary in length and believe it or not, after the first bridge, the crowds thin. Maybe visitors decide that one is enough. Maybe they think they are too shaky or they run out of time, but at the end of the trail, the last few bridges have no one on them, allowing ample time to enjoy the views from the center of the bridge.

If the trail only whets your appetite for the area, there are many other tours and activities offered by Mistico Park such as horseback riding, and canyoneering in Spider Monkey Canyon. There is also a restaurant on the premises if you need a bite to eat between adventures!

There are other similar parks in Costa Rica offering hanging bridges and nature trails. Though we didn’t visit them and can not offer a comparison, we thoroughly enjoyed our time in Mistico. With so many things offered in the well-manicured park, I would definitely consider visiting again in the future and sampling the other offerings.

For more pictures, check out Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Mistico Hanging Bridges Park

https://misticopark.com/
Address: 1.5 miles over the cobblestone road next to the Lake Arenal Dam in La Fortuna de San Carlos, Alajuela, Costa Rica
Hours: 0730-1630, daily
Admission: Hanging Bridges Self-Guided Tour, $26 per person. Natural History Walk, $38 per person. Birding Tour, $49 per person. Night Walk, $49 per person. Arenal Volcano Expedition, $75 per person. Spider Monkey Canyon, $75 per person. Paco’s Horses, $55 per person. Hours for each activity vary, check website.

The Skinny Bridge

Connecting the banks of the Amstel river at Kerkstraat, between Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht is the Magere Brug.

A well known story, often related to tourists visiting Amsterdam, is that of two wealthy sisters living on opposite sides of the Amstel River. Desiring to find a way to visiting each other easily, the sisters decided to have a bridge built to assist them on their endeavor. Lacking the funds to build a bridge of adequate width, they settled for one so narrow that two pedestrians were unable to pass each other during their crossing.

The Skinny Bridge.

Built in 1934 by Piet Kramer and renovated in 1969, the current structure was preceded by bridges on the site, one of which was first built in 1691. This bridge, the Kerkstraatbrug, had thirteen arches and was extremely narrow. Nicknamed the magere brug or “skinny bridge” this bridge remained in use until 1871 when it was demolished and replaced by a nine arched wooden bridge. After fifty years of use, plans were made to replace the link with a steel and stone structure, however, it was the city’s decision to remain with a bridge resembling the previous ones, only slightly larger.

Though the bridge, which has accommodated only pedestrians and cyclists since 2003, is high enough for the many low-profiled sightseeing boats to pass without opening, the bridge is opened throughout the day for other river traffic. In 1994, the bridge’s opening was automated, however, prior to that time, a bridge keeper was responsible for opening the bridge several times a day by hand.

An acclaimed landmark, located opposite the Royal Carré Theatre, thousands of visitors, including lovers, photographers and film buffs (the bridge was highlighted in a number of films, such as James Bond, Diamonds Are Forever), visit the bridge each year, especially at night, when it’s beauty is unsurpassed, lit by 1200 lights.

While visiting the canal-ringed city, head on over to the Amstel River and the Magere Brug for a photo op. Although not one of a kind, make it your first stop before finding the others located throughout the city, at the Staalstraat/Grimburgwal, Nieuve Herengracht, Rapenburg, Prinseneiland and Bickerseiland. Truly awe-inspiring!

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Magere Brug

Address: Kerkstraat, 1017 AK Amsterdam