Amsterdam’s Weteringsplantsoen is a lovely little park situated in the southwest part of the city.
On my way to a tour at the Heineken Experience, I had some time to kill. Passing this small park, I decided to take a detour through it and take some pictures of the adjacent canal and the beautiful fall foliage. Something, however, caught my eye before I made it to the canal.
Fall foliage on the Singelgracht Canal
A statue of a man laying down.
Since I could not read Dutch, I snapped a few photos and decided to do some investigation a bit later.
What I found was quite interesting.
The official name of this place, Fusilladeplaats Rozenoord, can be translated into English as “the firing squad place”.
During World War II, this rose garden was the site where German occupation forces shot and killed more than 100 Dutch civilians, many of them resistance fighters, during a four month period. While this was a widely known event, no one ever faced trail for the crimes.
Even though the events are commemorated on May 4, every year, it was decided that a memorial be erected to pay homage to those who lost their lives. This monument’s inscription reads:
Op deze plaats werden in de laatste maanden van de Tweede Wereldoorlog meer dan 100 Nederlanders door de Duitse bezetter gefusilleerd (At this place, during the last months of the Second World War, the German occupiers shot dead more than 100 Dutch people)
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It is well documented that most Roman emperors enjoyed flaunting their wealth, however, there was one that took his lavish lifestyle in the Eternal City to another realm.
Nero.
Deciding that he would build a palace to outdo all palaces, the Domus Aurea, he set forth with these plans in 64AD, after a major fire had swept through the city, destroying much of the area of the Oppian Hill. With this part of the city leveled, making room for his palatial plans, this led to speculation that Nero himself had started the fire.
Not to be deterred by rumors, he set forth with the construction of a complex, located near the Forum. The massive compound sat on 80 hectares, contained 150 rooms, gardens, a lake, fields, vineyards, pasture and forests with domesticated and wild animals. The rooms were lavishly decorated with gold, gems, precious marble and mother of Pearl, unlike any other built during the era. Records indicate that the house shone like gold with the light reflecting on these lavish decorations…hence the nickname, Golden House. And in the case that anyone’s memory lapsed and forgot who they were visiting, a 35-meter-high statue of Nero was situated at the entrance!
Some time ago, I had read about the Domus Aurea. Not open to the public during this timeframe, I had marked it as a point of interest on my Google map and filed it away hopefully for a future visit. Last spring, while perusing the internet, I came across an article advertising tours of the Domus Aurea. Tickets were limited and groups were small, so I excitedly booked a time slot in the afternoon.
Upon my arrival, what I first notice was that I was entering the gates of not only the Domus Aurea, but a park. A park filled with people sitting on benches, children skateboarding on the paved walkways and lovers relaxing on the grass in the shade of the massive trees. Deciding that it would be nice to walk through after my tour was complete, I continued to follow my directions, soon discovering a gate marked Domus Aurea, only to discover that it was not my intended destination.
Parco del Colle Oppio and entrance to Domus Aurea grounds
Virtual reality tours, which show the true nature of how Nero lived, are conducted on the weekends, when restoration work is not being conducted and embark from this location, however, being a weekday, I was directed to another building a little further.
Gate for weekend tours
After checking in, more people arrived and we were ushered into the building’s atrium with suggestions that we don outerwear for the cooler temperatures inside.
Main entrance and walkway to Domus Aurea underground
Not sure what exactly I was there to experience on my tour, I followed the guide down a long walkway, descending perhaps fifty feet or more to where the remains of Nero’s complex now lies, having been plundered, buried, and built upon by his successors.
Arriving in an impressively excavated, dimly lit, octagonal room, I marveled at the spotlighted statue occupying the center of the room and the astrological symbols being projected onto the vaulted ceiling. Indeed, it was much cooler, and I zipped up my jacket as I made my way around the rotunda, examining the adjacent rooms.
Our guide explained that this was the first time that these rooms have been made available as part of a temporary exhibition. This exhibition conjures up the Domus Aurea’s rediscovery by torchlight, in the 15th century, by those, including the painter Raphael, inspiring his future works.
I admired the best-preserved frescoes of the Domus Aurea in the Room of Achilles on Skyros which portrays a scene inspired by the story of Troy. Other rooms contained projections of the grotesques (a style of decorative painting or sculpture consisting of the interweaving of human and animal forms with flowers and foliage), architectural depictions of the palace designs and statues, including a reproduction of the Laocoon.
Left photo, reproduction of the Laocoon
We were also allowed into the dilapidated (due to weather and dampness) Room of Hector and Andromache, the first room to be discovered in the complex. The room was long and extremely tall; however, some remnants of its original artistry can still be detected.
Top right, Room of Achilles
Having examined all aspects of this beautifully restored piece of the palace, I made my way back up the inclined walkway and out into the warm, late afternoon sunshine.
Winding around the back of the building I had just exited, I followed the pathways, through the Parco del Colle Oppio, searching for the Baths of Trajan, which had been built on top of Nero’s palace, about 40 to 50 years later.
Parco del Colle Oppio
After Nero’s suicide in 68 A.D., his successors, Ortho and possibly Titus, added to the completion of the Domus Aurea, but later successors sought to erase Nero’s memory. Parts of the palace and grounds were filled with earth and built over, the Baths of Titus, the Flavian Amphitheater, the Temple of Venus and Roma and the Baths of Trajan were all built on the site.
The Baths of Trajan, built by architect, Apollo of Damascus, were created for the emperor Trajan and as a recreational and social center for both male and female Roman citizens in the early 5th century. There were the first “great baths” in Rome and at the time, the largest existing thermal building in the world. Not in use for very long, it was deserted and left for ruin.
Baths of Trajan
The remains of these ruins are scattered through the northwest side of the Parco del Colle Oppio…amidst area’s playgrounds. Children were running throughout the area with parents watching, exercising or visiting with others. It was interesting to see these citizens using these hallowed grounds as a recreational site, which it once was in a different capacity, all the while knowing what lies beneath them and around them…the Domus Aurea.
Baths of Trajan and middle right, Cisterna delle Sette Sale (across from rear entrance)Baths of Trajan
Rear entrance along Via delle Terme di Traiano
Front entrance, right across from Colosseum
What an interesting way to grow up among some of Rome’s most historical sites!
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One of my favorite television programs is The Amazing Race.
Obviously!
Anyone who knows me knows that my passion is seeing and photographing the world and this show epitomizes travel and highlights some of the most iconic landmarks in the world. Some of my best travel ideas have come from watching the show and of course, I would love to one day compete!
On seasons 6 (2004) and 29 (2107), the Chicago Water Tower was featured in the finales of the Amazing Race. It seemed quite familiar to me as I walked by its location in Jane M. Byrne Plaza (named after the former Chicago mayor), on the way to my hotel, but it took a little research to realize why it had sparked my curiosity.
The Chicago Water Tower, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, was built in 1869 by architect William W. Boyington. It doesn’t appear to be the usual type of tower seen in most cities; designed to blend in with the nearby architecture and enclose the tall machinery of a powerful water pump which was intended to draw water from Lake Michigan.
When much of the city burned during the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, the water tower miraculously survived along with a few other structures in the area. In the years since the fire, the tower has become a symbol of old Chicago and the city’s recovery.
The second oldest water tower in the United States now operates as a Chicago Office of Tourism and as a small art gallery known as the City Gallery in the Historic Water Tower. While not acting as the finish line for television races or the inspiration for fast food restaurants (think White Castle), the gallery features the work of local photographers, artists and filmmakers and draws tourists to the Windy City for a look at a piece of the city’s historical architecture.
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Sitting on a bench in a plaza, far, far away, I enjoy watching the citizens of the city come together. Older people sit on benches watching the children run and play. Patrons sip their lattes in outdoor cafes and sample the local cuisine. Vendors sell their wares and the old cathedral keeps watch over the entire setting, marking the hour with the tone of a mighty bell.
This scene can be found throughout many cities in the world. A few U.S. cities have town squares but being such a young country and one that tried to set itself apart, town squares are just not as prevalent.
Although everyone is familiar with the landing at Jamestown in 1607, many don’t realize that the oldest city in the United States had already been in existence since 1565, when the Jamestown settlers made their way ashore.
St. Augustine.
Plaza de la Constitution, the heart of St. Augustine, was established in 1573 by the Spanish Royal Ordinances and is the oldest public park in the United States.
When designed, the requirement was put in place that the plaza be oriented toward the primary compass points with a length equal to one and one-half times its width. Public and government buildings and churches were constructed facing the plaza and it was the place where the citizens of St. Augustine came to do business and meet their neighbors.
As I made a plan to see all of St. Augustine’s sights, one of the first things I noticed was Plaza de la Constitution. Thinking fondly of all the time I had spent abroad, enjoying the architecture and action of many plazas, piazzas, squares and parks (Piazza Navona in Rome, St. Mark’s Square in Venice, Plaza Mayor in Madrid, Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires, Trafalgar Square in London…just to name a few!) I knew that it would be the best place to start my explorations of the landmarks in the Old Town.
Among some of the sites within the park that I discovered were the old public well, which dates back to the 1600s, a pavilion used for city events and live entertainment, a monument to Confederate veterans, a 19th century monument to the Spanish Constitution of 1812 and the historic marketplace structure where the citizens of St. Augustine went to purchase their food and much needed items. Today, the market is no longer in operation, but the square is surrounded by numerous restaurants and shops. I was even offered a free banana as I walked into the park…by a PETA group hoping to bring awareness to pet cruelty!
After I walked through the park, languishing in the shade of the mossy oaks, I made my way to the front of the park and the spot that Juan Ponce de Leon landed near in 1513, marked by a statue on Ponce de Leon Circle at the entrance to the Bridge of Lions. Not only did I have a great view of the statue and of the old marketplace building, but of the mighty oak trees that stand at attention in the park.
The Public Market
There are many historic structures that surround the plaza, including the historic Government House, built from 1706-1713, which served as the home of the Florida’s Spanish governors and as the capitol of the Florida Territory in 1823.
The Government House
The exchange of flags took place in the plaza when Florida was transferred from Spain to the United States. Meetings were held in this location on the eve of the Civil War and Union Navy Officers crossed the park in 1862 when they reclaimed the city from the Confederates.
The Treasury on the Plaza
Also sitting on the plaza are two churches, Trinity Parish Episcopal Church, (established 1763-1783) and the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine (constructed 1793-1797), which was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1970 and is the oldest Catholic Church in the city and the seat of the Bishop of the Diocese of St. Augustine. The basilica’s awe-inspiring mission architecture is hard to miss, towering over the plaza.
Trinity Episcopal ChurchThe Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine
Although it would have been easy to grab a seat on one of the plaza’s benches and watch the world go by, there was just too much to see and do.
How could I see it all?
I exited the park, picked a street and started walking!
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Plaza de la Constitution
Address: 170 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
Having been away from work for a while, due to the Covid restrictions, I was desperately craving different scenery. As a flight attendant, I am used to spending my weekends in some far away city, dining in the piazzas, walking the streets and soaking up the culture.
Deciding to tackle some local attractions, I headed over to Maymont park to walk around for some sunshine, fresh air and exercise. While I had visited this park on many occasions in the past, I had forgotten how some parts could transport me to other locales.
One of Richmond’s and the state’s greatest treasures, the 100 acre park was the home of millionaires James and Sallie Dooley at the turn of the century. The couple lived on this land from 1893 until 1925 in their Romanesque mansion, surrounded by magnificent gardens and landscapes.
My fascination with James and Sallie Dooley, began during the first time that I visited their mansion many years ago. Why? My maiden name is Dooley and as I walked around their beautiful home, it was fun to imagine that they were distant relatives of mine and I was visiting their homestead. This time around, I was able to walk around the exterior of their mansion, but unfortunately it was not open to visitors. The periphery, however, is worthy of inspection, especially for architecture buffs like me! It is a stunning structure and surrounded by some beautiful sculptural pieces, the family mausoleum and the Dooley garage and stable, which features antique buggies and carriages.
Mausoleum
Dooley Garage and Stable
Heading down the hill, past the fountain court and stone barn, I began to feel as if I had departed my home country and landed in Italy. Though the Dooleys had commissioned English pastoral gardens around their home, this part of their estate, was more formal, featuring stonework, statuary, gazebos, fountains and beautiful flowers, shrubs and trees. This classical style, developed in the 15th and 16th century can be spotted throughout Italy and more specifically at Villa Torlonia, near Rome.
Fountain CourtStone Barn
A long pergola stretches along the northern edge of the garden and the garden is laid out in many levels below. At this point, the Dooleys could even spy the mighty James River out in the distance when it was first constructed. From this overlook stretches a stunning cascading fountain which feeds into a waterfall. There is a beautiful classical gazebo, imported from Italy, and I was told that it is quite lovely in the spring when surrounded by the blossoming peonies.
Making my way down the steps of the cascading fountain, I was disappointed to find that it was not in operation, but at the end, I was excited to glance upward at its magnificence and further down the path, find the entrance to the Japanese gardens.
The Japanese gardens have always been my favorite and the site of many picnics with my children during their younger days. When I am there, I truly feel as though I am in Japan.
Its nice to take a stroll on the gravel paths around the pond and admire the statuary, grotto and Japanese structures that rest near or over the water. I still fondly remember my boys jumping from stone to stone on the pathway across the pond and running across the wooden bridge near the base of the waterfall.
Exiting the gardens, I headed toward the part of the park where the wild animals are housed. Sometimes the black bear is not visible, but on this day, he was pacing back and forth along the wall and I was able to see him quite well. The Raptors and Bobcat exhibits were closed off due to spacing requirements so I continued along the path toward the Children’s Farm.
The horses and cows were grazing in the pastures and the vegetable garden was in full bloom. The sheep were out in their yard and I remembered how much my children loved to go to the petting zoo. The bison, my personal favorites, however, were nowhere to be seen within their enclosure.
The Robins Nature Center was not open on the day that I was here, but I thought back to the field trips in which we visited this facility. There are many interesting exhibits which highlight animals of the James River and Chesapeake Bay. One of the featured favorites are the otters, which reside in their own beaver lodge. The 30,000 gallon aquariums showcase a great number of aquatic animals which reside in the waters of the state. Over 45,000 guests visit the center annually, including tens of thousands of local students.
Robins Nature Center
As I made my way, full circle, back to my starting point, I relished the beauty around me…small creeks, large trees and rolling hills. It must have been a spectacular place for the Dooleys to call home and truly a special gift for them to bequeath to the city of Richmond.
Though the admission price is only suggested and visitors can enter the park freely, remember the generosity of the Dooleys and give back to the city to help maintain what the Dooleys gave to the city.
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Hours: Grounds and Gardens, April to September, 1000-1900, October to March, 1000-1700. Farm and Wildlife habitat, 1000-1700. The Robins Nature Center, Saturday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Carriage Collection, Tuesday-Sunday, 1200-1700. Maymont Mansion, temporarily closed.
That’s me. A person who wants to fill their passport with as many stamps from as many countries that they can.
This summer, I had done quite a bit of traveling with my family, however, even though we had visited cities to which I had never been, it was to countries that I had already marked off my map.
Scouring airline routes for a new country to visit, I decided that my husband and I could make it down to Quito, Ecuador, somewhere neither of us had ever traveled to, without a lot of fanfare or time off of his schedule.
Arriving late at night, the sky was dark and foggy and their wasn’t much to see at the airport or on our taxi ride to our hotel in the downtown area. So, it suffices to say that I was up early and eager to see what Quito had to offer.
One of the most popular attractions in Quito is the Equator. Yes…that imaginary line that runs through the center of our globe and what Quito is named for. If there was nothing else that we would see, this had to be it!
So you ask…if it’s imaginary, how would we find it?
Uber, of course!
Journeying via Uber for a few miles from the downtown area, our destination was Ciudad Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World City), the location of where the monument to the equator has been built. Though is is touted that this is the exact location of the equator, as was determined by the eighteenth century Franco-Spanish Geodesic Mission, the World Geodetic System, used in modern GPS systems, actually shows that the equator actually lies about 240 meters north of the marked line.
Oops!
No matter, we would visit this Disney-esque like park and then head to the real Equator location at the Intinan Solar Museum afterward.
Mitad del Mundo Entrance and Ticket Booth
Passing through the entrance, we headed through the well-manicured grounds to the pyramidal monument which dominates the park’s skyline. Each side faces a cardinal direction and the monument is topped with a globe. Naturally, the first thing we (as all other tourists) did was to straddle the yellow “equator” line in front of the monument. For a moment, my husband was in the northern hemisphere and I was in the south…yet only a few inches away from each other!
How cool is that?
We ventured into the monument to visit the small museum that offers insight into the Ecuadorian culture as well as information about the equator and the history of Mitad del Mundo. Working our way through each level, we finally, found ourselves at the top which offers a viewing platform and amazing perspectives of the property and the city and mountains beyond.
Making our way throughout the property, we found it to be quite vast and offering many attractions, including shopping and restaurants along a small colonial square, a llama farm, beer and cocoa museums, a planetarium and replications of ancestral housing. There are three cultural museums, the Ecuadorian Pavilion which offers a look at pre-Columbian art to inform of the history of Ecuador, the France Pavilion, a two-storied space which offers insight into the main contributions provided by the First and Second French Geodetic Mission and the Guayasamin Pavilionwhere you can appreciate the works of Ecuadorian painter and sculptor Oswaldo Guayasamin, who fought for the rights of the indigenous people. The Cultural Square hosts cultural events on most weekends and there is a small train station which provides transportation throughout the park with commentary emphasizing the history of the park.
Ancestral HousingReplicas
My favorite thing (besides dining on delicious empanadas) was our visit to the chapel modeled after the many churches that dominate the center of Quito. Ascending the bell tower, we had a beautiful view of the monument and the square below, I immediately focused in on this sign.
Oh, yes! I’ve always wanted to ring a church bell!
Descending back into and out of the church, we made our way, next door, to the Virgin’s Museum which highlights the most important Virgins celebrated and worshiped around the world. Just down the street, there was a small grotto, which gives patrons a chance to give thanks and praise to the most important Virgin, the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Although, it would have been easy to spend the greater part of a day here at Ciudad Mitad del Mundo, our itinerary was packed with many of Quito’s attractions and it was time to move on.
Petting the llamas would have to wait until next time!
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Address: Manuel Cordova Galarza Km. 13, 5 SN, Quito, Ecuador
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, $5.00, Children (ages 5-12), $2.50, Seniors and Disabled, $2.50, Children under 5, free
Getting There: Uber, from the Hilton, about $13.00 US. Quito Tour Bus, $30.00 per Adult, $20.00, reduced fare, departing from the Boulevard of the United Nations. The Mitad del Mundo bus ($.40 per person, adult, $.20 reduced) which runs along the Occidental Avenue (North-South). Buses run approximately every 5 minutes. Taxi rates vary from various parts of the city and arrangements can be made from most hotels for driver to wait for return or transport to other locations throughout the city.
Coming off of our exploration of the Hill of the Muses or Philapappou Hill, we continued walking the paths of the city’s alluring green space, making our way from one hill to the next…the Pnyx.
The birthplace of democracy.
From 508 BC, Pnyx Hill was the meeting place of the Democratic Assembly. Citizens assembled here ten times a year to make political decisions and take note of the orators speeches, including those of Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles and Themistocles.
As I walked from Philapappou Hill, I encountered a small rocky hill surrounded by parkland. A large flat platform of eroded stone was set to one side with steps carved into the slope. The podium, or Bema, offered a raised area for leaders to address the crowds who were seated in a semicircle, first on the ground and then later on wooden benches which were installed to accommodate the growing crowds.
The first question posed to the crowd was always an open invitation, “Tis agoreuein Bouletai?”
“Who wishes to speak to the assembly?”
As the acceptance of democracy spread, crowds grew from 5,000 to more than 13,000, finally outgrowing the Pnyx and moving to the Theater of Dionysus at the base of the Acropolis.
The Bema is cordoned off for protection, however, make sure to climb to the top area where you can find the former locations of the Sanctuary of Zeus Hypsistos, the Altar of Zeus Agoraios and Meton’s Solar Clock.
As we continued on toward the exit of the Pnyx, we located the retaining Wall of Pnyx built during the Hellenistic period and which offered protection to the area. Other items of interest, not to be missed, are the Sanctuary of Pan and the Fountain of Pnyx.
The Sanctuary of Pan was a religious shrine on the south slope. Not one to display monumental or architectural embellishments, it was a simple chamber which exhibited a relief, representing semi-God Pan, a naked Nymph and a dog. Outside of the doorway of the shrine, an ancient mosaic is protected by plexiglass.
Sanctuary of Pan
The Fountain of Pnyx is also located nearby, and dates back to the 6th century. This fountain is a rock-carved cistern which collected and stored water for the city of Athens. Though you are unable to view it up close, the chamber is covered with a mosaic floor.
Though we viewed both of these from outside the park’s gates, this seemed to offer the best viewing area.
Since the both hills, Philapappou and Pnyx, are connected, make sure to continue your walk to encounter all that both have to offer. You can even continue up to Nymph Hill which houses the National Observatory during the evening hours.
If time is not of the essence and you’ve seen Athen’s major sights, it is worth the time to take a leisurely walk and encounter many of Athens off-the-beaten-track bits of history.
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One of the most widely recognized classical Greek philosophers in history, he was also known as the founder of Western philosophy. It was his unique teachings and thoughts, however, that led to his demise. In 399 BC, Socrates went on trial and was found guilty of corruption and impiety. After being imprisoned, he was sentenced to death by poison.
Searching a map of Athens, I noticed on Philapappou Hill (also known as the Hill of the Muses), a landmark noting the location of the Prison of Socrates. Since I had never had the opportunity to walk to the top of this hill to inspect the monument to Philapappou (that I had seen from the nearby Acropolis) I decided that it would be a good destination for that day and being able to search out the location of this historical prison would be a bonus.
Heading up the pedestrian friendly Dionysiou Areopagitou street, I entered the park gates and headed up the marble paved pathways. Welcoming the shady pine-covered trails, I looked for signs leading to my destinations. There were none, however, finding the first item on my list was not all that difficult as it seemed that most other tourists were headed that way.
The Prison of Socrates was nothing more than a cave with iron bars…still, it was interesting to think that Socrates spent his last days here. Or did he?
Though this is a popular spot for tour guides to take tourists and prattle on and on about Socrates last days, it has been brought to light that these openings within the rock are probably no more than the remains of an ancient Mycenaean building. The real location of the philosopher’s prison was probably located near the Ancient Agora, at the foot of the Acropolis. Though no one is sure, it is interesting to visit this location and imagine poor Socrates passing the time behind the iron gates before his demise.
Continuing on, we followed the trail, climbing higher and higher up the steep rocky paths. As we came to a bend in our route, we moved out onto an opening and a rock outcropping. Here, we got our first views of the Acropolis from a different perspective. Having been to the Acropolis on multiple occasions, seen it from below in the Plaka and from afar from my hotel’s rooftop terrace, it was something to see from an adjacent hill. As we stared in wonder, we also noticed the amazing views to be gotten of Mount Lycabettus and the Saronic Gulf and I imagined that it would be an amazing location to take in the sunset.
Climbing higher, we finally reached the pinnacle of our ascent where the Monument to Philapappou, an ancient Greek mausoleum dedicated to Gaius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos (65-116 AD), rests. A prince from the Kingdom of Commagene, Philopappos was highly respected and one of the greatest benefactors of the city.
Upon his death, which caused great grief to not only his family, but also to the citizens of Athens, it was decided that a tomb would be erected on Muses Hill. Built on the same site where 6th century poet and mystical seer, Museaios was entombed, the two story marble structure is an elaborately carved structure on par with the Acropolis…its location showing his great status within the city.
Following the main path, past the Philapappou Monument, we found the Shrine of the Muses, cut into the rock face just below the top of the hill. This shrine was created in honor of the goddesses of creative inspiration. Philapappou Hill is also known as the Hill of the Muses for it being the home of the nine muses of Greek mythology.
Heading down the hill, we finally came to the Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris, a 15th century Byzantine church. By now, everyone should know how much I love churches and of course, I was thrilled to unexpectedly find this charming chapel during the midst of our exploration of Philapappou Hill. Though it offered a peaceful place to rest for a moment, I was frustrated to find the church locked. I was especially disappointed later when I learned that this church is decorated with beautiful frescoes. I also learned that its surname, “Loumbardiaris” (the Bomardier) was earned as it was saved by a miracle in 1658 when the Turkish commander of the Acropolis, Yusuf, was planning to bomb the church from the Propylaea. The following day, as they prepared to attack, a lightening strike hit the gunpowder magazine, causing an explosion which killed Yusuf and his entire family.
Since I was unable to examine the interior of this historical structure, I made myself content to walk around and survey its exterior architectural features. A spectacular find that I will certainly return to see again!
A good part of our morning had been fulfilled with the exploration of Philapappou Hill. There was much more as two nearby hills are connected to this beautiful green space within the city of Athens and we decided to continue our excursion.
What else would we find?
If you are in the area and find yourself with time before or after your visit to the Acropolis, make the short walk to Philapappou Hill and discover the treasures scattered around this beautiful promontory. Have a picnic, enjoy the views and maybe even the sunset!
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Filopappos Hill
Address: Thissio, Athens, 104 38 Athens, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
The Prison of Socrates
Address: Filapappou Hill, 43, Rovertou Galli 39, Athens 117 41
We could hate it…or it could be one of our most memorable trips yet!
One of the best parts of travel is discovering new places and cultures. I find it extremely exhilarating to explore a new city and find out what makes it tick!
What was it about Antigua Guatemala that makes it worthy to have received the distinction of UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979?
Antigua Guatemala means “Old Guatemala” and was the third capital of Guatemala, after earthquakes and uprisings forced the movement of the first two. Located in the central highlands of Guatemala, it is known for its beautifully preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture and the large number of colonial churches ruined during previous years earthquakes.
Laid out in a square pattern, with streets running from north to south and east to west, we found that La Antigua (as it is sometimes referred to) was quite easy to navigate. As we set out onto the cobblestone streets, we passed many buildings that had been damaged during earthquakes. Rather than appearing as eyesores, however, these buildings, including the Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús among others, add character to the charming city,
The Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús is located next to the Spanish Embassy and was once a Jesuit monastery and college, established in 1626. After the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, the great earthquake that hit six years later, left the unoccupied building in ruins. Though we were unable to venture directly into the main part of the building, the Spanish government, which restored most of the complex, has turned it into a cultural center. Outside, we were able to admire the extravagantly carved (yet mostly headless) statues that grace the facade of the main building, but inside the complex, we were able to enjoy serene courtyards and abundant pieces of artwork on display.
Continuing our journey, we came to the heart of the city, the Plaza Mayor. This central plaza is a gathering spot for locals and visitors and is centered with a fountain. There are large trees that offer shade during the hottest parts of the day and benches to rest and talk. Due to the large number of visitors in town for the Holy Week’s festivities, there were many vendors attempting to peddle their wares and many locals in traditional dress. The perfect spot for people-watching!
Surrounding the square are a large number of restaurants, shops and banks, including the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which incorporates the headquarters of the Guatemala Institute of Tourism, the Antigua Tourism Association, the National Police and the Sacatepquez Department government.
Dominating the eastern side of the Plaza Mayor is the Antigua Guatemala Cathedral. The original church, built in 1541, was damaged heavily by many earthquakes over the years. The original church was demolished in 1669 and rebuilt and consecrated in 1680. The largest in Central America at the time, it was filled with precious works of art and housed the remains of Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado and his wife, Beatriz de la Cueva. In 1773, the catastrophic Santa Marta earthquake demolished much of the city and movement of the capital to (what is now known as) Guatemala City, was deemed necessary. This earthquake also seriously damaged most of the cathedral. Belonging to the parish of San Jose, the cathedral’s interior presently only occupies the entrance hall of the original edifice. It is not as richly decorated as I would have imagined, but it was nice to see the stations of the cross and the other holy statues, especially those decked out for Semana Santa.
As we walked out of the back doors into a cemented courtyard, we admired the exterior architecture of not only the cathedral but the buildings surrounding the cathedral. Noticing an entryway, we approached and found that we could investigate the ruins that remain from when the cathedral was demolished by the massive earthquake of 1773. Paying our entry fee, we walked through the remains of this once grand cathedral, mostly open above so that we could glimpse the blue sky. Though it takes a bit of imagination to envision how the cathedral once looked, it was exciting to walk through the structure, examining the ruined chapels and seeing the remains of the carved details atop the columns.
Something we learned was that after the destruction of the
church, it temporarily served as a cemetery.
Many tunnels have been discovered under the cathedral and we were also
able to descend into the South Crypt. A
dark, damp place, there was not much to see, but you can imagine the many souls
that have come to rest here.
In the rear of the remains, we found a work area where many pieces are being restored or placed for safekeeping. Despite the absence of many walls and a ceiling, this cathedral took my breath away for the purity that still remains. Much like visiting the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the detritus of this ancient structure leave much to the imagination, yet take your breath away at the same time.
After leaving the cathedral, we walked past the park once again, heading back to our hotel so that we could spend some time refreshing ourselves for much needed nourishment.
A couple of blocks from our hotel, on the corner of Alameda de Santa Lucia and 5a Calla Poniente, we peered through the gates at what we later learned was the Landivar Monument, dedicated to poet and local, Rafael Landivar. Built in 1953, this monument, erected in a park-like setting, pays tribute to the beloved writer and Jesuit priest who lived from 1731 until 1793. Though we walked by this peaceful place, every day, we never seemed to find the gates unlocked, though we were told that it would be open daily. Content to spy on its tranquility through the iron bars, we decided to save this for a future visit.
After a recommendation from our hotel for dinner, we headed back into the night seeking out the restaurant, La Fonda de la Calle Real, located near the Plaza Mayor. As we approached the park, we learned for the first time what the Santa Semana processions of this small city consisted of.
Hundreds of people lined the street of Poniente, which runs east to west, adjacent to the park. Processing down the street was a lighted, massive, religious, wooden shrine hoisted on the shoulders of a religious guild. Moving and swaying slowly to the melancholy music of the accompanying band, we watched in awe as the barge, complete with life-size effigies of the Virgin Mary and Jesus, passed a few feet from us. Many others marched with the procesiónes, dressed in robes and waving censers clouding the air with the smoke from burned incense.
As a Catholic, it was something to see…inspiring, touching and thrilling all at the same time!
Once the crowds dispersed, we finally headed to La Fonda unequivocally anticipating some delectable Guatemalan cuisine. Seated in a courtyard, open to the night sky, we started with guacamole and then both chose the traditional dish, Suban-iq, chicken, pork and beef slowly cooked in banana leaves, covered in a tomato, chilies and spices sauce. Accompanied by homemade tortillas (being made by a lady near the entryway), the food was delicious and just what we needed after our long day of travel and sightseeing.
Heading back to our hotel, stomachs filled, we eagerly readied ourselves for bed and within seconds, my mind reeling from all that we had experienced so far, I was asleep.
Not for long.
Shaken from my sleep, I sat up and realized that we had experienced our first earthquake! Though I was able to go back to sleep immediately, my son said that there were three or four aftershocks, making him a bit nervous, knowing that there were three nearby volcanoes.
What can I say? All in a days time, we had discovered so much! A new country, a new city, a new culture, new religious traditions, new foods and something entirely new (and a bit scary) to the both of us…an earthquake.
Yes, we were discovering Antigua…and this was only Day One!
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Antiguo Colegio de la Campana de Jesus
Address: H747XQ Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: 1000-1700
Admission: free
Plaza Mayor
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: free
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Address: 5a Calle Oriente 5, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700
Admission: Main church, free. Ruins, Q20 (about $3.00 US)
Landivar Monument
Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Some of the best views of Zurich can be found from Lindenhof Hill.
Lindenhof’s lofty location, atop the remains of a glacier, made it the prime location for the Roman’s to build a citadel during the years of Valentinian. This fortification was used as a line of defense against migration from the North by the Alamanni. Outfitted with ten towers and thick, two meter wide walls, it eventually became the fortification of the historical center of Zurich, rising twenty-five meters above the Limmat River.
Over the years, many other types of construction were situated on the hill, including a chapel and a royal residence. Graves of late medieval children and adults were also found in 1937 by archaeologists.
Finally, with the demolition of the royal residence, the hill became the only public park within the city walls, where residents met and bow and crossbow shooting were practiced. A variety of trees and plants were instilled in the park and in 1688, the Hedwig Fountain, sculpted by Gustav Siber, which depicts the legend of the siege of Zurich (1292), was erected in the park.
In 1851, the Masons purchased the adjacent Paradies building and converted it into a lodge. In 1865, the park was redesigned and chestnut and acacia trees introduced. The local population was not happy with its new look and in 1900, the park was given its present appearance.
Today, the park is a popular meeting spot and the location where numerous public events and festivals are held. Some of the best views of the city can be had here so on any given day, a large number of tourists can be found in the park, enjoying the beautiful Swiss buildings and clear river below.
The adjacent streets are closed to automotive traffic and it is a short walk to the church of St. Peter’s and the Fraumunster from Lindenhof Hill.
If you are new to visiting to visiting the city and want to first get your bearings, take a hike up the hill to Lindenhof park. You can get a lay of the land and then take the short walk to the other landmarks of the city.
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
