Discovering Antigua

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We headed to a new country on a whim.

We then headed to a town I knew nothing about.

The unknown was the best part.

We could hate it…or it could be one of our most memorable trips yet!

One of the best parts of travel is discovering new places and cultures.  I find it extremely exhilarating to explore a new city and find out what makes it tick! 

What was it about Antigua Guatemala that makes it worthy to have received the distinction of UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979?

Antigua Guatemala means “Old Guatemala” and was the third capital of Guatemala, after earthquakes and uprisings forced the movement of the first two.  Located in the central highlands of Guatemala, it is known for its beautifully preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture and the large number of colonial churches ruined during previous years earthquakes. 

Laid out in a square pattern, with streets running from north to south and east to west, we found that La Antigua (as it is sometimes referred to) was quite easy to navigate.  As we set out onto the cobblestone streets, we passed many buildings that had been damaged during earthquakes. Rather than appearing as eyesores, however, these buildings, including the Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús among others, add character to the charming city,

The Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús is located next to the Spanish Embassy and was once a Jesuit monastery and college, established in 1626.  After the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, the great earthquake that hit six years later, left the unoccupied building in ruins.  Though we were unable to venture directly into the main part of the building, the Spanish government, which restored most of the complex, has turned it into a cultural center.  Outside, we were able to admire the extravagantly carved (yet mostly headless) statues that grace the facade of the main building, but inside the complex, we were able to enjoy serene courtyards and abundant pieces of artwork on display.

Continuing our journey, we came to the heart of the city, the Plaza Mayor.  This central plaza is a gathering spot for locals and visitors and is centered with a fountain.  There are large trees that offer shade during the hottest parts of the day and benches to rest and talk.  Due to the large number of visitors in town for the Holy Week’s festivities, there were many vendors attempting to peddle their wares and many locals in traditional dress. The perfect spot for people-watching!

Surrounding the square are a large number of restaurants, shops and banks, including the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which incorporates the headquarters of the Guatemala Institute of Tourism, the Antigua Tourism Association, the National Police and the Sacatepquez Department government. 

Dominating the eastern side of the Plaza Mayor is the Antigua Guatemala Cathedral.  The original church, built in 1541, was damaged heavily by many earthquakes over the years.  The original church was demolished in 1669 and rebuilt and consecrated in 1680.  The largest in Central America at the time, it was filled with precious works of art and housed the remains of Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado and his wife, Beatriz de la Cueva.  In 1773, the catastrophic Santa Marta earthquake demolished much of the city and movement of the capital to (what is now known as) Guatemala City, was deemed necessary.  This earthquake also seriously damaged most of the cathedral.  Belonging to the parish of San Jose, the cathedral’s interior presently only occupies the entrance hall of the original edifice.  It is not as richly decorated as I would have imagined, but it was nice to see the stations of the cross and the other holy statues, especially those decked out for Semana Santa.

As we walked out of the back doors into a cemented courtyard, we admired the exterior architecture of not only the cathedral but the buildings surrounding the cathedral.  Noticing an entryway, we approached and found that we could investigate the ruins that remain from when the cathedral was demolished by the massive earthquake of 1773.  Paying our entry fee, we walked through the remains of this once grand cathedral, mostly open above so that we could glimpse the blue sky.  Though it takes a bit of imagination to envision how the cathedral once looked, it was exciting to walk through the structure, examining the ruined chapels and seeing the remains of the carved details atop the columns. 

Something we learned was that after the destruction of the church, it temporarily served as a cemetery.  Many tunnels have been discovered under the cathedral and we were also able to descend into the South Crypt.  A dark, damp place, there was not much to see, but you can imagine the many souls that have come to rest here. 

In the rear of the remains, we found a work area where many pieces are being restored or placed for safekeeping.  Despite the absence of many walls and a ceiling, this cathedral took my breath away for the purity that still remains.  Much like visiting the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the detritus of this ancient structure leave much to the imagination, yet take your breath away at the same time. 

After leaving the cathedral, we walked past the park once again, heading back to our hotel so that we could spend some time refreshing ourselves for much needed nourishment.

A couple of blocks from our hotel, on the corner of Alameda de Santa Lucia and 5a Calla Poniente, we peered through the gates at what we later learned was the Landivar Monument, dedicated to poet and local, Rafael Landivar.  Built in 1953, this monument, erected in a park-like setting, pays tribute to the beloved writer and Jesuit priest who lived from 1731 until 1793.  Though we walked by this peaceful place, every day, we never seemed to find the gates unlocked, though we were told that it would be open daily.  Content to spy on its tranquility through the iron bars, we decided to save this for a future visit. 

After a recommendation from our hotel for dinner, we headed back into the night seeking out the restaurant, La Fonda de la Calle Real, located near the Plaza Mayor. As we approached the park, we learned for the first time what the Santa Semana processions of this small city consisted of.

Hundreds of people lined the street of Poniente, which runs east to west, adjacent to the park. Processing down the street was a lighted, massive, religious, wooden shrine hoisted on the shoulders of a religious guild. Moving and swaying slowly to the melancholy music of the accompanying band, we watched in awe as the barge, complete with life-size effigies of the Virgin Mary and Jesus, passed a few feet from us. Many others marched with the procesiónes, dressed in robes and waving censers clouding the air with the smoke from burned incense.

As a Catholic, it was something to see…inspiring, touching and thrilling all at the same time!

Once the crowds dispersed, we finally headed to La Fonda unequivocally anticipating some delectable Guatemalan cuisine. Seated in a courtyard, open to the night sky, we started with guacamole and then both chose the traditional dish, Suban-iq, chicken, pork and beef slowly cooked in banana leaves, covered in a tomato, chilies and spices sauce. Accompanied by homemade tortillas (being made by a lady near the entryway), the food was delicious and just what we needed after our long day of travel and sightseeing.

Heading back to our hotel, stomachs filled, we eagerly readied ourselves for bed and within seconds, my mind reeling from all that we had experienced so far, I was asleep.

Not for long.

Shaken from my sleep, I sat up and realized that we had experienced our first earthquake! Though I was able to go back to sleep immediately, my son said that there were three or four aftershocks, making him a bit nervous, knowing that there were three nearby volcanoes.

What can I say? All in a days time, we had discovered so much! A new country, a new city, a new culture, new religious traditions, new foods and something entirely new (and a bit scary) to the both of us…an earthquake.

Yes, we were discovering Antigua…and this was only Day One!

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Antiguo Colegio de la Campana de Jesus

  • Address: H747XQ Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 1000-1700
  • Admission: free

Plaza Mayor

  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: free

Antigua Guatemala Cathedral

  • Address: 5a Calle Oriente 5, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Admission: Main church, free. Ruins, Q20 (about $3.00 US)

Landivar Monument

  • Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: daily
  • Admission: free

La Fonda de la Calle Real

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