cathedral – Snapping The Globe

Adventures in New Mexico Part 4-Settlements, Staircases and Sweeping Views

With great excitement, we set out early to see what the oldest capital city in the United States would offer. Already having experienced some of Santa Fe’s artistic qualities, we also desired to delight in some of its culinary offerings and encounter its many historical monuments and architecture.

With forest fires burning in the north and to the east, we were not sure how Santa Fe would be affected. Placing a call to the Santa Fe Visitor’s Center, we were assured that there was no smoke blowing toward Santa Fe. While it would have been easy just to head to head to Santa Fe’s Old Town, where many monuments were located, we wanted to head seventeen miles to the east first, to the settlement that was located on the historic Santa Fe trail.

Pecos National Historical Park encompasses thousands of acres which include prehistoric archaeological ruins to 19th century ranches to battlefields of the American Civil War. What I most wanted to see, however, was its notable feature, the Pecos Pueblo known as Cicuye Pueblo, a Native American community abandoned in historic times. Designated as a national monument in 1965, it was enlarged and renamed in 1990 to include two sites within the park, the pueblo and the Glorieta Pass Battlefield.

As we headed southeast on Interstate 25, we noticed an electronic sign at our exit noting the fires in the area. Concerned that circumstances had changed since our conversation with the Santa Fe Visitor’s Center, we almost turned back, but decided to continue on. Thankfully, we later learned that the Battlefield area was closed due to fires in the proximity, but the National Historical Park was open.

*Peco’s National Historical Park* *Visitor’s Center*

Starting our explorations in the Park Visitor Center, we learned how the early Indian Settlement once appeared and some aspects of its history through exhibits, artifacts and a short introductory film. We then headed out onto the 1.25 mile loop behind the Visitor’s Center.

The trail, lined with cactus, flowers and dry scrub, led us past ancient rock walls, critters, the remnants of ancient kivas, pueblo foundations and lots of rattlesnake warning signs! We were even able to descent into a preserved kiva which gave us an understanding of all of the other opens ones we had seen at Chaco Canyon. Finally, however, we encountered the remains of the last church that the Spanish completed in 1717.

While the Spanish sought to conquer and acquire great wealth, the Franciscan missionaries sought to amass converts. The first church was constructed between 1617 and 1621 but was located a fair distance from the pueblo. In 1625, another mission church was constructed 600 feet south of the pueblo and had an attached Convento which acted as storage, work rooms and living areas for the missionaries. While the construction was funded and supervised by the Franciscans, the Pecos people provided the labor, however, received no pay. Eventually, this forced labor and poor treatment led to the Pecos people joining nearly thirty other pueblos in a revolt against the Spanish Empire in 1680. At this time, the Church and Convento were burned to the ground. A smaller church, the one whose remains still stand today, was built on the rubble and completed in 1717.

The red adobe walls of the church set against the clear blue sky made from some beautiful photos, however, as we scanned the nearby mountains, we spotted smoke rising from the nearby ridges reminding us that the area was experiencing a devastating disaster.

Finally making out way back to the Visitor’s Center, we headed out to the Santa Fe Trail and back to Santa Fe. Spying an opportunity to grab some lunch before heading into Old Town, we stopped at a location of Blake’s Lota’ Burger. We had spotted other locations during our travels and decided to find out what made this New Mexico chain, established in 1952, so special. Green Chiles…grown, harvested and flame-roasted in Hatch, New Mexico and placed on their freshly made beef hamburgers. It was delicious and hit the spot, readying us for our explorations of Old Town.

While Old Town is very quaint, parking is a bitch! It took quite a bit of driving around near the main square before we secured a parking spot. Feeding the meter for a couple of hours, we then walked the few blocks to the plaza. The plaza was much larger than Albuquerque’s, also with a bandstand, surrounded by buildings and serves as the historic center’s heartbeat. Numerous artisans filled the covered porticos surrounding the plaza, hawking their wares, and visitors flocked here hoping to find a good deal and grab some respite from the sun.

*Santa Fe Old Town Art and Architecture*

As we walked through the square and then the old streets, admiring the art and architecture, we finally arrived at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. Commonly known as Saint Francis Cathedral, it was built between 1869 and 1886 on the site of an older adobe church, La Parroquia, which in turn had been built on the site of an older church built in 1626 and destroyed in the 1680 Pueblo Revolt. Today, a small chapel on the north side of the cathedral is all that remains of the adobe church.

*Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi*

As we made our way through the cathedral, I kept feeling as though I had been there before. Though I know that I had not, I surmised that it was because it reminded me so much of the church I had grown up and gotten married in. Built in the Romanesque Revival style, it contained three naves, Corinthian columns and beautifully colored stained glass. What I loved most, however, was the Stations of the Cross. These wooden, framed paintings were modeled in the Spanish style, as also was the beautiful wooden, paneled altarpiece.

Making our way outside, we studied the façade and statues of Archbishop J.B. Lamy and St. Francis of Assisi, the cathedral’s patron saint. Behind the church was a small garden with other statues and a small park adjacent to the church. While I would have loved to stroll through the park, I found the gates locked as workmen were completing some renovations.

*Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi* *Statues*

Next on our list was another church, the Loretto Chapel. This small chapel was the first Gothic building west of the Mississippi and was patterned after Paris’ beautiful Sainte Chapelle. Built between 1873 and 1878, it is best known for its choir loft staircase. This circular staircase is considered “miraculous” because of its two complete spirals without center or side supports which defy engineering logic. Indeed, this amazing staircase takes center stage in the small chapel, but its beautiful altar and stunning architectural details also warrant inspection.

Next up, yet another church was on our radar. Located on the original route of the Santa Fe Trail (next to the New Mexico and Santa Fe Visitor Information Center) is San Miguel Church. This small adobe structure boasts the title of being the oldest church structure in the United States. The original adobe walls and altar were built by the Tlaxcalan Indians from Mexico under the direction of the Franciscan friars in 1610 to serve a small congregation of soldiers, laborers, and Indians who lived in the Barrio de Analco (now the national historic district of Santa Fe). In 1680, it was partially destroyed during the Pueblo Revolt and rebuilt in 1710 with some structural changes. During its lifetime, under Spanish, Mexican and American rule, it has served as a place of worship, an infirmary for Franciscan missionaries, a military chapel, a venue for talks, concerts and ceremonies and a sanctified space for Sunday Mass in Latin and English.

The small chapel offers up a spartan interior with a beautiful wooden beamed ceiling and an all-adobe altar containing a stunning carved and painted wooden altar screen (1798). In the adjacent museum, take note of the Statue of Archangel Michael (1709), which was carried throughout New Mexico to solicit donations for the chapel’s 1710 reconstruction, the painted cross-shaped sword and a painted wooden crucifixion.

Taking note of the time dwindling on our meter, we headed back to our parked vehicle and drove to the Historic Fort Marcy Park area. Finding a spot adjacent to the Thomas Macaione Park, we walked around the corner to find the stairway leading to the Cross of the Martyrs. This replica of the original cross located off of the Old Taos Highway, was erected in the early part of the 20th century to honor the twenty-one Franciscan priests who were martyred during the Pueblo Revolt. The uphill path is lined with plaques detailing the city’s history and from the top, with the cross towering above us, we had sweeping views of Santa Fe below.

Santa Fe has so much fill your days, it would have been welcome to spend a couple more days investigating the countless museums and galleries spread throughout the city. We had, however, seen most of what we had come to and it was time to head to southern New Mexico for more fun! So with no regrets, we headed back to our hotel for dinner and to rest up for the long drive ahead…and time to raise our sights to the skies on our way to Roswell!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Pecos National Historical Park

https://www.nps.gov/peco/index.htm
Address: Pecos National Historical Park, 1 Peach Drive, Pecos, NM 87552
Hours: Summer (Memorial Day until Labor Day), 0800-1800, daily. Visitor Center, 0800-1700. Winter (Labor Day until Memorial Day), 0800-1630, daily. Visitor Center, 0800-1600. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.
Admission: free

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

https://cbsfa.org/
Address: 131 Cathedral Place, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Admission: free
Hours: Tuesday to Friday, 0930-1600 , Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday, 0800-1200. Closed Mondays.

Loretto Chapel

https://www.lorettochapel.com/
Address: 207 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Adults, $5.00 USD, Seniors (65 and over), $4.00 USD, Youth (ages 7-17), $3.00 USD, Children (under 7 years), free.

San Miguel Church

http://sanmiguelchapel.org/
Address: 401 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
Hours: Monday 1300-1500, Tuesday-Saturday, 1000-1500, Sunday, 1200-1500. Docent History talks, Tuesday through Saturday, 1100 and 1400.
Admission: Closed November 20, 24 & 25

Cross of the Martyrs

https://www.historicsantafe.org/cross-of-the-martyrs
Address: 617 Paseo De Peralta, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
Hours: 0630-2200, daily
Admission: free

The Almudena Cathedral

While there are many churches in Madrid, one that is relatively new is the one that takes center stage…for many reasons.

The Almudena Cathedral.

I’ve walked by this stunning piece of architecture countless times on my visits to Madrid. Why I never stepped inside, I am not sure. Perhaps it wasn’t during opening hours, or I simply had other more pressing matters to attend. On this particular day, however, it was open and I had nothing on the agenda.

But it was not the cathedral that I happened upon first. It was the crypt.

Noticing the open doors, located in front of the Arab Wall, I wandered in.

The first thing I noticed were the columns. 400 of them!

Four hundred columns fill the space, each crowned with biblical figures, nature scenes and the symbol of Madrid, the bear and the strawberry tree (which I had also spotted earlier near my hotel).

Mirroring the same architectural footprint as the cathedral above, it is the largest crypt in Spain and the resting place of some of the country’s most notable families and to King Alfonso XII’s first wife Maria de las Mercedes de Orleans. As I wandered through the space, admiring each of the incredibly bedecked side chapels with their Byzantine mosaics and Gothic stained-glass windows. Many of the tombs were extremely elaborate, demonstrating the power and wealth of the families of those interred. The most fascinating facet, however, was the Chapel dedicated to Nuestra Senora de la Flor de Lis (Our Lady of the Lily), possibly the oldest image of the Virgin in the city.

*Nuestra Senora de la Flor de Lis (Our Lady of the Lily)*

*Capilla de los Exemos Srs Marqueses de Urquijo*

*Capilla Virgen de Rosario and Capilla de la Exema Srs Marquesa de San Juan*

Overall, it had the grand feeling of a cathedral yet more peaceful as would be expected.

Now I was ready for the cathedral itself.

Making my way out of the crypt, I walked around the corner praying that I would find the cathedral open.

The sun was getting lower in the afternoon sky as I glanced up at the cathedral’s façade. Making my way up the stairs, it was hopeful to see other people exiting the entrance.

The church, which was completed and consecrated by in 1993 by Pope John Paul II, is the first cathedral to be consecrated outside of Rome, but plans for the church date back to 1879 when Francisco de Cubas wanted to create a pantheon for the late Queen Maria de la Mercedes. Construction was started four years later, but those plans were changed as the idea for a cathedral was conceived.

Inspired by French cathedral architecture, it was the first to include a crypt and it was to be a cathedral built by the people. When donations came up short, this and other construction problems delayed the project further. The crypt was opened in 1911 but further construction was delayed with the outbreak of the Civil War. As Gothic style went out of vogue, new architectural solutions were sought out. Work was restarted in 1950 with the cloister being completed in 1955 and the main façade in 1960. With many years of construction to follow, the cathedral was finally considered finished in 1993.

As I entered and made my way around the cathedral, what struck me most was not the beautiful stained glass windows (which were amazing), not the numerous columns that filled the space (like in the crypt), not the massive organ in the choir loft, but the colorful ceiling above. It was something like I’ve never seen and very much unexpected as it not matched the classical style!

After my departure, I learned that the cathedral houses a museum which contains effigies of the city’s patron saints, the Virgin Mary of la Almudena and San Isidro of Labrador and an exhibition of the life of the Church through the seven sacraments. The museum contains twelve halls which contain mosaics, Episcopal symbols and vestments. I also learned that I had missed access to the cathedral’s dome. My understanding of this area of the cathedral is that it is not particularly noteworthy however, I am not one to pass up an opportunity! After further research, I discovered I was visiting on a Saturday afternoon when closing time for these two features was well before my arrival. So my advice to those seeking to visit both the crypt and the cathedral and the entirety of it interior…get there early!

Guess I will have to go back!

And be early!!!

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Almudena Cathedral

http://www.catedraldelaalmudena.es
Address: Calle de Bailén, 10 28013, Madrid, Spain
Hours: Monday to Sunday, 0900-2030. Museum and crypt, Monday to Saturday, 1000-1430.
Admission: Cathedral, free. Museum and crypt, Adults, €6 (US$ 6.30), Students, groups, and seniors, €4 (US$ 4.20).
Getting There: Metro, Opera, lines 2 and 5. Bus numbers 3, 25, 39, 148.

Islands in the Sea, Day Six in Croatia

After the constant travel we had experienced on our vacation so far, we decided that we needed a relaxing beach day!

Wanting to explore the nearby Pakleni islands, we decided that renting a boat for the day would be the best option since we own a boat at home and have experience on the water. We awakened early, headed to the small harbor and sought out a vendor. After a lot of questions with a lot of people, we were informed that since the onset of Covid we would not be able to rent the boat ourselves but rather with the assistance of a captain. I don’t know what Covid had to do with any of this, however, the addition of a captain made it quite expensive and much less private than we desired.

Instead, we analyzed the signs along the Riva advertising the water taxis and their destinations.

Palmizana Beach on Sveti Klement Island.

Mlini and Zdrilica beaches on Marinkovac Island.

Kordovon beach on Jerolim Island.

Right away, we knew that Jerolim was out of contention as it’s home to a nudist beach…not that we have a problem with that…it’s just that my body isn’t in as great a shape as it once was! Kordovon beach is one of the oldest Adriatic nudist beaches (established in the 1950s) and has been voted by CNN as the most beautiful naturist beach in Europe…sorry we had to miss it!

When we had solicited the opinions the day before at the Visitor’s bureau, from our waiters and our host, some had suggested Milini for its beauty, others had suggested Palmizana for its sheer size and facilities.

Finally, we decided to just throw caution to the wind and flipped a coin…Palmizana won! We hopped on board the next water taxi, with a handful of other travelers, and held on as our boat made its way across open water towards the islands.

*View of Hvar Town and its mighty fortress.*

A short time later, we approached a dock and were allowed to disembark. Following a path and the other passengers, we made our way to the other side of the island where Palmizana beach spread out before us, sparkling and pristine.

Renting an umbrella and two chairs, we proceeded to relax and enjoy the sun for the majority of the day with a break to enjoy a couple of beers from one of the restaurants that remained open, since it was the last day of the tourist season.

The beach was a bit pebbly and waters crystal clear, albeit a bit cold for our liking, but all in all the adventure was worth it! It was nice to relax after all of our adventures.

During the late afternoon, we headed back to the dock to make the boat crossing back to Hvar Town. My husband was a bit sunburned and anxious to take a break in the apartment, but I spotted the Cathedral of St. Stephen’s doors open, so I opted to take a quick peek!

The cathedral, located on the eastern side of the city square (Pjaca) was built on the site of an early 6th century Christian church and later the Benedictine convent of St. Mary. While the church was decorated much less lavishly than I had expected, since it was decorated by Venetian artists, it did have some redeeming qualities. The side chapels were similar in style and much more ornate than the rest of the décor with heavy marble columns. The stone pulpit dates back to the 15th century and the crucifix, over the altar, is in the Gothic style, while the rest of the church is a blend of Renaissance, Manneristic and Baroque styles.

As I stepped outside to photograph the exterior of one of the most important historical buildings in Hvar and inspect its 17th century bell tower, the priest and another gentleman were hard at work raising a very large canvas portrait of what I assumed was St. Stephen above doorway. Stepping away into the Pjaca, I admired the uniquely styled cathedral in the dwindling afternoon light.

Meeting up with my husband, we proceeded to continue our afternoon sunset observations from the Riva before the dinner hour. The golden light was stunning as it set beyond the islands that we had visited on this day and once again, the yachts began to sail into the harbor, taking their places, sometimes five deep along the dock. With as many boats on this night, surely dinner was going to be a lively affair!

Hvar, while the smaller of the three cities that we visited, was filled with charm and natural beauty. We were only there for two nights, however, it definitely left a mark on us, making me wonder how many other secret spots Croatia had up it sleeve! Tomorrow, however, we were heading back, the final leg of our journey to Dubrovnik, and we were looking forward to see all of the sites we had not had time for during our first few days!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral

Address: Trg Svetog Stjepana 1P, Hvar 21450 HR
Hours: 0900 to 2100, daily
Admission: 10 HKN per person

Splitting Up, Day Four in Croatia

With so much to see and do in Split, we knew that we had to be up with the birds and out the door early! What each of us wanted to experience, however, was a bit different, so we decided to do what we could together and then split up later in the day.

While Saint Domnius was right outside our window, it was still an hour or so from its opening so we decided to start our explorations along the waterfront and then loop back around into the main part of the city.

*View outside our window of Saint Dominus’ Belfry*

Being such an ancient city, there were many ruins that we encountered as we made our way to the Riva. Passing the Church of Bana Jelačića, we made our way around the harbor to the West Bank, admiring the boats along the way…some we could only wish to ever travel on! Set in the walkway along the water were bronze plaques commemorating Croatian athletes who had medaled in past Olympic games.

Reaching Sustipan Park, we decided that this would be our turning point and we headed back toward the city center along the cobblestone streets amidst the ancient stone buildings. There were interesting things to see along the way…cute cafes, wall art, sculpture, historic buildings, souvenir stands, museums. Passing through Fruit Square, we stopped for a moment to inspect the statue of Marko Marulic, the famous Croatian and Split author, designed by Ivan Meštrović.

Eventually, we found ourselves at the Iron Gate (West Gate) of the Diocletian Palace. The four gates of the palace have been preserved and we had spotted the Silver Gate (East Gate) upon our arrival while attempting to find our Airbnb. The Iron Gate is an interesting piece of architecture with its bell tower (connected to the chapel of Our Lady of the Bell Tower) and unique clock with twenty-four digits instead of the usual twelve. This gate, originally a military gate from which troops entered the complex, is the only one that has remained in continuous use to this day. While a sculpture of Nike, the Roman goddess of Victory once stood on the horizontal beam, it was removed and later replaced with an engraved cross. Today, there is another sculpture to the right as you approach from the west.

As I mentioned, we were staying within the Diocletian Palace, however, when I had opted to make Split a part of our travel plans, I had imagined that this palace was one to visit, much like Buckingham in London or Pena in Sintra. Not being the case, I learned that this ancient structure was built as a retirement residence for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD. Forming about half of the Old Town of Split, the term palace is a bit misleading as it resembles more of a large fortress with about half of it once marked for Diocletian’s personal use and the rest as a military garrison. Today, it is filled with shops, apartments and museums.

Winding our way through the palace’s many passages and courtyards, we found ourselves on the north side. Here was the Golden Gate (North Gate), which was originally the main gate from which Diocletian entered the complex and probably the gate the Emperor entered after his abdication from the imperial throne. The church of St. Martin can be found above the gate and is usually open to the public, but much to my dismay, on this particular day it was not.

*North Gate and Benedictine Monastery remains.*

Outside the gate, however, we found the remains of the Benedictine monastery of St. Euphemia. The small chapel that remains, sits alongside the palace walls in Giardin Park, as well as its 18th century bell tower. Dating back to 1069, this convent was dedicated to Saint Arnir, the Archbishop of Split who was stoned to death in 1180. The complex was destroyed by fire in 1888 and demolished in 1945 except for the tower and the small chapel. On the nearby steps leading to the palace is the colossal statue of Grgur Ninski. The bronze effigy symbolizes the Bishop of Nin (900-929) who was notorious for instructing the churches in his diocese to celebrate mass in the Croatian Glagolic language, instead of Latin, resulting in the loss of his stature.

Entering the palace again, we headed toward the Silver Gate (East Gate), which was nearest to our apartment. While still standing strong, it is the least composed compared to the three others and was once incorporated into the Church of Dušica, destroyed during World War II. With many vendors adjacent to the entrance, we took a moment to grab a water and browse.

Deciding that it was time to tackle Saint Dominus Cathedral, we headed in that direction, but first, stopping to inspect the Renaissance Church of Saint Roche, built in 1516 and which is now housing the Tourist Information office. Walking through the Peristyle, we entered the ticket office to purchase the tickets needed for the three parts of the Saint Dominus visit; the Cathedral, the Treasury and the Belfry.

Since the Treasury was within the same building as the ticket office, we decided to start there, making our way through the four upper floors which house the church’s extensive artifact and art collection.

Next, we headed across the Peristyle to the Church. Since no one was in line for the Belfry, we decided to make the climb first. While I admit, I was a bit winded from the many stairs to the top, the views from this perspective were unreal. The city spread out before us, with its orange hued roofs and the waters of the port lay to our south and mountains to our north. We could see the ferries readied for their island journeys in the harbor…our mode of transport for the next day.

The cathedral, originally built as Diocletian’s mausoleum was converted into a church by refugees from Salona in the 7th century. As we entered we admired the massive wooden doors, protected by glass, decorated with carvings that depict scenes from the life of Christ. Inside the church, the altar, dating back to the 15th century, holds court with its gilded ceiling and accoutrements and is flanked on the rear with the cathedral’s organ pipes. In the rear of the altar, is the choir decorated with dark paintings and wooden pews and above, the cathedral’s domed ceiling.

As we exited the cathedral, we made our way to the Crypt of Saint Lucy, located beneath the church. A relatively simple area, it is constructed of stone walls and centered with a altar topped with a statue of the Blessed Virgin.

Exiting the church, we entered, once again, the Peristyle, the popular meeting place that retains its use as it did in Roman times. There are beautiful carvings within the space, including the famous Sphinx. Impossible to miss, this 9 foot tall black granite statue sits on a ledge between the cathedral and the Peristyle, guarding the mausoleum. This impressive piece of art, the oldest artifact in the city, was brought to Split by Diocletian from Egypt as a war trophy after the Egyptian uprising was pacified by the Romans in 297-298 AD. Originating in the era of Pharaoh Tuthomosis the 3rd, it was one of twelve sphinxes that was commissioned by the Emperor.

*Architecture and sculpture in the Peristyle.*

Finally, we walked over to the Baptistery, the Temple of Jupiter, located in a narrow passageway on the west side of the Peristyle. The classical temple, built in Roman times, has a richly decorated portal and a vaulted ceiling. It was converted into a baptistery during the Middle Ages and an 11th century baptismal font was placed within. This font, decorated with stone carvings portraying a Croatian ruler on his throne. There is also a statue of St. John the Baptist and the sarcophagi of the Bishops of Split. Built around the 3rd century, the temple, which was one of the last such temples of its kind constructed within the Roman world, was named after Diocletian’s father, Jupiter. On the outside of the temple is another of the sphinx’s that was brought by Diocletian.

Since we had has such a long day, my husband was ready to relax in our apartment for a while. Me? Not so much! So we decided to split up for a few hours and each enjoy what we wanted. I still had souvenirs to purchase and I wanted to visit Diocletian’s Cellars located in the front of the Palace near the Brass Gate, the main entry point from the Promenade to the Cathedral. Often referred to as the “basement halls”, these cellars were constructed to partly elevate the Emperor’s chambers as well as a storage area for food and wine of the palace. During the Middle Ages, it was used as a residential area and later, as a water storage facility. Today, it is a relatively empty space that can be appreciated for it architectural prowess, but you can also inspect the remnants of a large press used in the production of wine, a nymphaeum and a marble table from the Emperor’s dining room.

The end of our day brought us to a fantastic recommendation by our Airbnb host, Ines…Villa Spiza. The thirty minute wait at this local restaurant was extremely worth it for the delicious entrees it served up…my fave, smelt!

With a full stomach, we headed back to our apartment noting the live music being performed in the Peristyle. Once inside, we opened up our windows and a bottle of wine and enjoyed the nighttime sounds of the Split!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Airbnb-Peristyle Emperor Suite

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/28042924?source_impression_id=p3_1651936373_iAWOOKBzDDAw4qSK

Saint Dominus Cathedral

Address: Diocletian’s Palace, Split, Croatia
Hours: June-September, 0800-2000, daily. October and May, 0700-noon and 1700-1900, daily. November-April, 0700-noon.
Admission: There are four types of tickets to choose from. Blue ticket (50 kn) includes 3 sites: The Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery. Green ticket (70 kn) includes 3 sites: The Cathedral, Bell tower, Treasury. Red ticket (60 kn) includes 4 sites: The Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery, Treasury. Purple ticket (80kn) includes all 5 sites: The Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery, Treasury, Bell tower.

Diocletian’s Cellars

www.visitsplit.com
Address: Ul. Iza Vestibula 3, 21000, Split Croatia
Hours: 0800-1000, daily
Admission: Adults, 30KN, Students and children, 15KN, Family ticket (with children under 15 years), 90KN

The Cathedral of the Musical City

Sometimes I feel like I don’t find churches, they find me!

I wasn’t looking to visit a church while in downtown Austin…I just happened to stumble upon one of the most historic ones in the state.

Built in the late 1800s, St. Mary’s Cathedral began as a small stone church named St. Patrick’s. As the parish continued to grow, the decision was made to build a new church. With both an Irish and German congregation, it was determined that a patron saint that reflected both heritages was needed, and St. Mary was chosen. In 1872, when Austin was made the state capital of Texas, the first cornerstone was laid, and the church completed two years later. St. Mary’s was deemed a cathedral in 1948.

The Gothic exterior seemed out of place amongst Austin’s towering skyscrapers, yet it was mesmerizing with its Gothic revival towers and spires which were added in 1907. Inside the tower, the cathedral’s bell is one of the largest in the state of Texas.

As I entered the cathedral, I was quite surprised to find a stunning interior, highlighted by spindled beams and a barrel-vaulted ceiling. Towering stained glassed windows lined each side of the church and tree-like columns were topped with foliage carved capitals. As I made my way toward the altar, I gazed upward at the bright blue dome painted with stars and flanked by two altars dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and St. Joseph and as I turned to face the rear of the church, I was mesmerized by the spectacular large rose window in the front façade.

In a city of known for its music, St. Mary’s is the site of a Christmas concert that highlights its Irish heritage. Traditional Irish and Scottish music is performed by acclaimed artists and the concert is a sellout each year.

So, when you visit Austin, not only can you experience music throughout the city, you can hear it at St. Mary’s and experience its history and architecture at the same time.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

St. Mary’s Cathedral

https://smcaustin.org/
Address: 203 E 10th St203 E 10th St, Austin, Texas 78701
Hours: daily, 0800-1800. Daily mass schedule, Monday-Friday, 0630, Monday-Saturday, 1205. Weekend masses, Saturday, 1730 and Sunday, 0730 (Latin), 0930 (Live streamed), 1200, 1345 (Spanish, live streamed), 1530 (Latin, live streamed), 1730.
Admission: free

Rediscovering Accra

There is nowhere like Africa.

The smells, the sights, the people!

I had missed being in Accra and was excited to show my friend around on her first sojourn. Once we had visited Black Star Square, a new locale for me, it was time to reacquaint with some “oldies but goodies” and see what else we might discover in the process.

When you walk around the city, you never know what you might encounter…fighting cows, someone’s laundry on a city bench or wall, someone sleeping under a tree, countless vendors hawking their goods. It is always a surprise and usually quite entertaining.

Dodging the hazards of the crumbling sidewalk, we ventured back along 28 September Road towards the Accra Arts Market. Speaking of not knowing what you might find or walk away with, this is the place. I was in search of face masks made of kente cloth and I knew exactly where to look, however, it is quite difficult engaging with the locals who invite you into their booths and remind you that it’s always “free to look”. Although I have countless masks and other oddities from my previous visits, I steeled myself to say no, however, my friend, on her first visit, couldn’t and walked away with a small table!

Purchases aside, we were able to reconnect with my old friend David, a drum maker who works in the market, share a soda and some great gossip!

Since the Kwame Nkrumah monument was a short distance away, I decided that we should stop in for a visit. Although I had been there before, it was nice to see it once again, even if the fountains were all drained and the property a bit unkempt. One of the most interesting things I discovered was in the museum at the back of the property. I had just finished watching the Netflix series, “The Crown” and remembered the episode when Queen Elizabeth danced with President Nkrumah at a ball in Accra in 1961. Right there on the wall was a photo depicting that particular event!

Leaving the property, I suddenly realized a major mistake we made upon our arrival. I really am out of practice… Never tell some of the locals your name unless you want a personalized ornament, shell, bracelet…the possibilities are endless. I understand that they are desperately trying to make a living, but once they had our name (in our case) they made bracelets for each of us with our monikers woven into it and wanted to sell it to us. Sadly, I didn’t have enough money for their asking price (which was quite high) and I felt bad for the amount of time spent making it, so…we came to an agreement of a purchase with a discount.

Continuing on, our next stop was the Holy Trinity Cathedral. This beautiful, stone church was completed in 1894 and was funded by the colonial British government. Fifteen years after its completion, it was deemed a cathedral by the Diocese of Accra.

Having lain my eyes upon many a cathedral in the world, I would say that this one was in no way equal, however, mass was just finishing and the priest warmly welcomed us inside and told us to make ourselves at home. The design was quite interesting with a dark, barrel-vaulted ceiling, a stone-walled interior and red velvet-covered pews, but it was stark in contrast to some of the Italian, Central and South American gilded temples I have set foot in. Nonetheless, it was nice to see the interior and even speak with some of the parishioners who were still gathered outside.

Heading into the Jamestown area, I was hoping that we could tour the Ussher Fort, one of the three forts that Europeans built in the region during the middle of the 17th century. This fort was built by the Dutch and was completed in 1649 and I suspected that we would be able to get some interesting photos in the bright, sunny day. Blaming incorrect internet information, we found the place to be closed, but were still able to sneak a peek at the interior through the barred doorways. Definitely another place for one of my future trips.

After stopping for a cold drink at the colorful Jamestown Cafe, we cut through the area that houses the Makola market. Having seen the market in operation during its peak operations during the week, we found the streets to be relatively deserted…Sundays are really a day of rest for many Ghanaians. A little further, after passing the monument to King Tackie Tawiah, (king of Accra from 1862-1902), we ended up on Independence Avenue with its countless vendors and local market. While Makola was quiet, we found a flurry of activity while hastening our own travels back to our hotel.

Hobbling back to my room, I suddenly realized how much ground we had covered that day. My friend was thrilled to have seen so many interesting sights and met so many interesting people. Me? I was just happy to rediscover one of my favorite African cities!

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Accra Arts Centre

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Museum

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: 5 cedi (about .83 US)

Holy Trinity Cathedral

Address: High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Mass Schedule: Unknown
Admission: free

Ussher Fort

https://www.ghanamuseums.org/ussher-fort-museum.php
Address: 33 Prof. Atta Mills High St, Accra, Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Admission: Pupils from Primary to JHS 3, GH¢ 0.20 (about .04 US), SHS Students, GH¢ 0.50 (about .08 US), Tertiary Students with ID, GH¢ 1.00 (about .16 US), Ghanaian Adults, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Children, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Students with ID, GH¢ 5.00 (about .83 US), Adult Foreigners, GH¢ 10.00 (about $1.66 US)

Makola Market

Address: Kojo Thompson Rd, Accra, GH
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free

Sanctuaries and Souvenirs

The early bird gets the worm…or a great breakfast!

Although I had checked many things off of my list of things to do in Havana, there was still a great deal more to see! As I sat in the dining room, enjoying my eggs, fruit and toast, I checked my map and thought more about the some of the things that were suggested by my seatmate on the flight to Havana.

Deciding to start at the Basilica and Convent of San Francis of Assisi, I thought that I would finally see more of the religious institutions that dot the predominately Catholic country.

Getting anywhere was slow going as I was continually distracted by the unique architecture that existed on each block. Passing the Museo Casa de Mexico Benito Juarez, I made a note to return later if there was time and then made a quick stop to admire the statue of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan military and political leader who led Venezuela, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Panama to independence from the Spanish Empire.

*Casa de Benito Juarez* *and Simon Bolivar Statue*

Finally arriving in the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, I first sought out two significant statues. The monument to the Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, sits on a bench, beckoning visitors to take a seat next to him and El Caballero, the bronze likeness of José María López Lledín, a man which much speculation once surrounded. An interesting story surrounds the latter. Originally from Spain, he was was said to have lost his family, arrested for a crime he did not commit and wandered the streets of Havana during the 1950s. He always carried a portfolio with his treasured pens, gifts and colored pieces of cards, which he bestowed on passersby. Over time, he became well known throughout the city and would often entertain with poetry recitals and storytelling. He died in 1985 and was buried in the Cemetery of Santiago de las Vegas. After the restoration of the plaza in the late 1990s, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis. His statue was erected in 2001 and was designed by sculptor José Villa Soberón, who also sculpted the John Lennon sculpture which can be found in the Parque Lennon in Vedado. His beard has been rubbed shiny and it is said that doing so gives good luck!

After a beard rubbing, I admired the lovely, wide open plaza and the beautiful buildings surrounding it, as well as the statue of Fray Junípero Serro with a Juaneño Indian boy, before entering the Basilica.

The original church that stood on this site was built by the Franciscans in 1591 but was damaged by severe storms in 1680 and 1692. A hurricane toppled its tower in 1694. Eventually, construction resulted in the church’s present Baroque stature in 1739, was named a basilica by the Pope and became the city’s premier house of worship. It eventually adjoined the adjacent Franciscan convent.

As I ventured inside, again I was a bit underwhelmed, as I had been with the Havana Cathedral. Its interior is in the shape of a Latin cross with domed ceilings, however, it lacked the grandeur that I thought would exist here. As I later learned, however, from 1762, the church no longer served the Catholic religion. From this time, the British had control over Havana and commandeered the basilica for Anglican services. Considered desecrated by the Protestants, Catholicism never existed within its walls again. Although the monks continued to occupy the convent, Queen Maria Cristina of Spain closed the building and transferred the members of the religious order. In 1907, the property was purchased by the government and sadly, became a warehouse.

Today, the church acts as one of Havana’s most outstanding concert halls and is home to the acclaimed all-female chamber orchestra, Camerata Romeu. As I wandered through the church, I was privy to some of the members performing during a rehearsal session.

Inside the crypt, the remains of many 17th and 18th century aristocrats can be found. The nave and the attached cloister also houses the Museum of Sacred Art which exhibits paintings by José Nicolás de la Escalera and Vicente Escobar, wooden images, early marriage registries and the armchairs and lectern used by Fidel Castro and Pope John Paul II during his 1998 visit. Though I enjoyed wandering through the church’s interior, it was the cloister with its fern-filled courtyards and countless rooms filled with religious artifacts that was most captivating.

The former church’s one hundred and thirty-seven foot tower, once the tallest in Havana (second tallest in Cuba), was previously crowned by a statue of St. Francis of Assisi, whose head was severed during a hurricane in 1846. Though the tower can be accessed by a somewhat rickety staircase (which I had planned to tackle for the beautiful views of the city), it was sadly not meant to be…the spire was closed due to maintenance.

Making my departure, I headed south on Oficios and immediately found myself staring at a train’s coach car, El Coche Mambi. Entering the car, I was greeted by an elderly woman, who explained (in Spanish) that visiting was by tour only. After paying her, she then led me through the car which was used by the Presidents on their tours of the country. Last used by Fidel Castro Ruz, the coach has been converted into a museum and preserved the same as when it was in use. Though my Spanish is basic, I mostly understood the history and what I was seeing as she led me through the coach and explained its contents. The president’s bedroom, the president’s wife’s bedroom, the kitchen, dining room and the president’s desk were quite interesting and beautifully displayed.

As I thanked the gracious senora for the short, yet insightful stopover, I ventured out, making my way to the waterside.

Headed toward the ferry terminal, I first encountered Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral. Since I had deemed the day, “a church day”, I decided that my ferry to Regla could wait while I find if it was possible to see the church’s interior. Discovering unlocked doors, I peered inside, spying a woman performing some tasks. She did not seem disturbed by my presence, so I quietly entered and moved throughout the space, discovering each of the elements that make an orthodox church unique.

The church’s construction dates back to 2004 when Cuban leader Fidel Castro offered to build the cathedral as a monument to Russian and Cuban good-will. The cathedral was built in the Byzantine style with a central golden cupola surrounded by four smaller copper-colored ones. The pieces of the cupolas, as well as elements of decoration, including the floor covering and the church plate, were brought from Moscow and the interior has space for 500 congregants.

After my walk-thru was complete, I ventured back out into the sunshine, finally heading to the ferry terminal. My destination was the small town across the bay where the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla is located. Though I probably would have not done this without some coaxing, it was highly recommended by the tour guide that I sat beside on the airplane. After hearing how much I love visiting churches, he insisted that I take the ferry to see this church, which houses the black Madonna, a highly venerated statue of the Virgin Mary.

I was a bit nervous as I entered the ferry terminal. After having my bag searched, I unsuccessfully searched for a ticket counter. There were many people waiting and as a boat approached from the south, I assumed that this was the correct vessel. Lining up with both locals and tourists, I asked a gentleman if this was the boat to Regla and was told yes, only to glance up and discover that another boat had pulled up to the dock. Hmmm. I decided that I would go with my gut!

As I approached the lanchita on the right, I saw people paying the crew as they boarded. Thankfully, I had smaller change, even though I overpaid a bit…ticket price was only 10 centavos! Making my way across the boat to the open doorways, so that I could get some air while fighting for space among the masses, I again asked someone (who appeared to be a local) if I was on the boat to Regla. “Si Señora”, he replied and I breathed a sigh of relief.

As we pulled away from the dock, I realized that if I indeed was on the wrong boat, the other ferry crossed the bay to the Christ statue and that wouldn’t be such a bad thing. Our ferry motored off, getting further from the city and I spied the golden cupola of Our Lady of Kazan in the distance, reflecting the brilliant glow of the day. And…it looked like we were headed in the right direction!

Seven minutes later, we were pulling up to the dock in Regla and I decided to follow those who appeared to be tourists. From the looks of the area, it seemed like the church was the tourist destination of choice…maybe the only choice.

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla was a short walk and I was met by many vendors sitting on the stone gates which surrounded the church, hoping to sell me a candle or an offering to the Virgin. The church, with its long colorful history, is extremely important to the believers of the Virgin. The statue, which was believed to have been carved by St. Augustine “the African” in the 5th century, was brought from Spain in 453. After surviving a storm in the Strait of Gibraltar, it became known as the patron of sailors.

A small hut was built on the site, to house a copy of the image in 1687 by a pilgrim named Manuel Antonio, but was destroyed by a hurricane only five years later. A more durable chapel was built a few years later and in 1714, Nuestra Señora de Regla was proclaimed patron of the Bahía de la Habana. In 1957, the image was crowned by the Cuban Cardinal in the Havana Cathedral. On September 7, the saint is celebrated when thousands of pilgrims descend on Regla and the image is paraded through the streets.

The church’s vaulted ceiling makes a grand statement above the lightness of the church’s color scheme which is trimmed in blue, a salute to its association with the sea. There are beautiful paintings which depict life on the ocean, carved stations of the cross, saint’s statues and a golden side altar. As you enter the church, however, it is the altar, directly in your line of vision, that houses La Santísima Virgen de Regla. Though I had to wait a short time, I was finally able to approach the altar and take pictures of the Black Madonna…truly awe inspiring.

The ferry ride back to Old Havana was a quick affair and I toyed with the idea of immediately jumping on the other ferry. I wanted to revisit the Christ Statue and Castillo Des Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and I also wanted to tour La Cabana. There were other things in Old Havana that I wanted to discover first, however, so off I went by land, towards the Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market.

Since I had done a bit of browsing on Obispo street, but not yet made any significant purchases, I was eager to see what I might find in this highly recommended establishment. Built in 1885, the Havana’s oldest depository is the home to the largest artisan’s market in the city. A short walk from the harbor, it is easily accessible to cruise ship arrivals and offers everything from clothes to paintings to toys and tobacco accessories. The sheer size of it was quite overwhelming and I was not sure where to turn. As everyone tried to garner my attention, I decided that I would try to find shirts for my sons and a nativity set for my collection. In a predominately Catholic country, it would seem that finding a nativity set would be an easy feat, however, it took at least a half an hour of talking to people, who then went to talk to people, in order to find one! And since I was pretty particular about the type of t-shirts that I was searching for, it was a similar procedure. It was quite exhausting, but I met some interesting people, learned some interesting local news and walked away with the purchases I had planned and then a couple of unplanned ones too!

With my heavy package, I decided that I would begin heading back to my Airbnb to drop them and have a quick bite to eat. Crossing the street, however, I spotted the Church of St. Francisco of Paula. What caught my attention was the tall trio of stained glass windows on the rear of the church. I decided that I should take a quick look from the inside to see their sunlit beauty.

What originally served as an important hospital for women and children during the end of the 17th century, was built with an adjoining church devoted to St. Francis of Paola, one of the founders of the Roman Catholic Order of the Minims. The buildings were destroyed by a hurricane in 1730, but rebuilt in the Baroque style that is seen today. When the Havana Central Railroad attempts to demolish the church was met by opposition, work was completed to have it listed as a National Monument in 1944. Sadly, however, the railroad was able to destroy the hospital.

The church that can be visited today is similar in style to other Havana churches, those of Santo Domingo, Guanabacoa and San Francisco de Asis and has been extensively restored. The stained glass windows, that lured me inside, act as the altarpiece and this church has the only organ that has been preserved in Cuba with its original pipes and machinery. The ashes of the great Cuban violinist Claudio José Brindis de Salas (1852-1911), considered one of the best violinists of his time, are preserved in the church and although the the belfry still exists, its original three bells, destroyed during the hurricane of 1730, were never restored.

My stomach was starting to rumble and my feet were starting to ache, but there was one more church I wanted to see before I shifted gears. A couple of blocks from St. Francis of Paola church was the Iglesia y Convento de la Merced.

Having seen a few churches in the city, I had been a bit underwhelmed. This one, however, did not disappoint. One of the most beautiful churches in Havana, it was built between 1865 and 1867 in the Baroque style and is the type to make you gasp as you lay your eyes on the interior. Decorated by Cuban artists, it contains murals and frescoes throughout with highlights of light blue on the ceiling and an elegant black and white marble floor. Beautiful statuary and intricately carved stations of the cross grace its heart and it was hard not to take a seat on the old carved pews to rest and pray for a few moments. The most intriguing part of the church, however, was the chapel on the left side of the church with a full grotto installed behind the altar. Though the church is suffering from exposure to the damp air and is in need of restoration, it is truly one that I was glad that I did not miss.

Finally, it was time to continue my journey back to my temporary home. It had been a busy morning and I needed to refresh and refuel. After my lunch, it would be time to change channels from churches to the forts that lay across the channel.

From prayers to protection…all in a day in Havana!

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Casa Benito Juarez

Address: 116, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: Sunday and Tuesday only, 0930-1430.
Admission: Unknown

Statue of Simon Bolivar

Address: Mercaderes, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Convento and Basilica Menor of San Francis of Assisi

Address: Plaza de San Francisco La Habana Vieja, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0930-1800, daily
Admission: Church and Museum, $2 CUC (about $2 US), Tower $1 CUC (about $1 US), Children under 12 years, free

El Coche Mambi

Address: Oficios y Churruca, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0930-1600. Closed Sunday.
Admission: By tour only, $2 CUC (about $2 US)

Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral

Address: Avenida del Puerto Esquina Calles Sol y Santa Clara – La Habana Vieja, Havana 10100 Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free

Terminal de Ferris (Ferry Terminal)

Address: Avenue Del Puerto, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 0400-midnight, daily.
Admission: 10 centavos (about 10 cents US)
Capacity is 90 persons and boats depart every 15 minutes

Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla

Address: Avenue Marti, Regla, Cuba
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: free, donations accepted

Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market

Address: Avenida del Puerto corner of Calle Cuba
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800. Closed on Monday.
Admission: free

St. Francis of Paola

Address: 110 Leonor Pérez, Havana, Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free

Iglesia Y Convento de la Merced

Address: Calle de Cuba 806, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Hours listed are 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, Monday-Saturday and 0900-1300, Sunday, however, I ventured in after the noon hour, so church may or may not be closed. Mass times are 0900, Monday-Saturday and noon, Sunday
Admission: free

Halfway Thru Havana

Three o’clock and thirsty.

There was still plenty of daylight and most attractions in Cuba did not close for a little while. I needed a plan of action that might include a frosty beverage!

Grabbing a seat on a rustic bench, I took a second to regroup.

Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio near the Revolution Museum caught my eye. I had just been near there and it meant a little backtracking, but there were many restaurants just around the corner and it would be nice to have a seat and something to drink.

Though the church was not open, I discovered that it sat on a pretty, yet tiny, colonial square, Plazuela de Santo Ángel. A lovely bronze statue of a woman holding court in front of the church captured my attention. She was dressed in vintage attire, holding a fan and appeared to have just left the church and was going to do her business in Old Havana.

Although there is a placard on the church wall which tells visitors about this woman, Cecilia Valdes, I had to wait until later to decipher who she was as it was written in Spanish. What I later learned was that this woman is the title heroine of a popular 19th century book which had a scene set at this location. The book has inspired operas, literary reiterations and a feature film and has been considered one of the most important novels detailing life in 19th century Cuba. You can also take note of the bust on the nearby wall of Cirilo Villaverde, the Cuban poet, novelist, journalist and freedom fighter. He is known especially for one great literary piece of work. Yes…the novel, Cecilia Valdes!

As I made my way away from the square, I was intrigued with the area. There were captivating outdoor cafes, fun souvenir shops and colorful fans hanging above the street. It was a beautiful afternoon and it was nice to take a seat under one of the large umbrellas and enjoy a refreshing cerveza!

Once again, I continued my explorations and there was a great detail to take in; small, beautifully crafted tiles on buildings, artists putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces, bits of grafitti, a statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and city wall ruins in the Parque Cespedes La Maestranza and the Police Headquarters situated in a old fortress, were just a few of the treasures that I encountered along the way.

Music playing in the distance caught my ear and I followed the tune. Finding myself in the Plaza de la Catedral, a known locale of countless street performers, I stared up at the profound Havana Cathedral, also known as the Catedral de San Cristobal. One of the eleven cathedrals on the island, it serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese. Built between 1748 and 1777, it was consecrated in 1782.

The Baroque architectural style is quite commanding as you stand before the cathedral in the plaza and if your eye is quite discerning, you may notice that the two bell towers are of unequal size and height. Approaching the facade, I noticed that there were fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone, quickly realizing that the Cathedral is constructed from coral. It is quite beautiful and I could not wait to see what its interior held, especially knowing that it was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini.

The interior is decorated in the neoclassical style and has a central nave, two side aisles, eight side chapels and is in the form of a Latin cross. Though my initial impression of the interior was that it was stunning, with its palatial columns and soaring vaulted ceilings, I realized that it was more of an understated beauty. I have seen my share of opulent religious building throughout the world and this one was not of that class. It was, however, welcoming and offered many sculptures, paintings and frescoes throughout its interior. Some of these paintings and frescoes are by masters Peter Paul Rubens and Bartolome Esteban Murillo. Other standouts are a statue of Apolinar Serrano, Spanish bishop of Havana, who is buried in the Cathedral, a sculpture of Saint Christopher, the Patron Saint of Havana, three fading frescoes by Giuseppe Perovani above the altar, a canvas of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of the Cathedral, and on the altar, sculptures and goldsmith works made in Rome during the first half of the 19th century.

The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Christopher and between 1796 and 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept in the Altar of the Gospel before being taken to the Seville Cathedral in Spain after the Cuban War of Independence.

Finding the side door open, I ventured out and discovered access to the right belltower. I suspected that someone is usually stationed at the entrance to collect an admittance fee, however, no one was present. Making my way up each level of the campanile, I had bird’s eye views of each of the mighty carillons as well as panoramas of the plaza below and even a view across the river of the Christ of Havana. A small gate was unlocked and I discovered that it led onto a portion of the roof. Since there was no one to tell me that I was not allowed and no signs, I ventured to the area and was rewarded with close glimpses of the tiled roof and the spectacular flying buttresses.

After my visit to the Cathedral was complete, I headed back out into the Plaza de la Catedral. Musicians were performing at the El Patio restaurant and locals and visitors were dancing in the square. There were gaily dressed Cuban women, seated at tables and telling fortunes and a general sense of celebration. Walking down the Empedrado, I witnessed many artists along the thoroughfare and older women holding tight between their teeth, one of the things Cuba is known for. It seems that they have learned that tourists love the photo opportunity to pose with a cigar smoking old lady! Here, I also found La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar which lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the establishment since its opening in 1942. Though I would have loved to go inside, the line was fairly long and I really would have preferred to come back in the evening for a proper drink.

Cutting back across the Plaza de la Catedral, my next destination was the Plaza de Armas, Havana’s oldest square. Originally known as Plaza de Iglesia for a church that stood on the site, it was developed in the 1520s. Its current name was adopted in the late 16th century, when the governor used the site to conduct military exercises.

Today, the square is centered with a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and bounded by some important buildings which include the 18th century Palacio de Los Condes de Santovenia (now known as the Hotel Santa Isabel), El Templete, the Public Library, the Museum of Natural History, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.

Hoping to be able to visit the Castillo de la Real Fuerza before closing time, I raced around the property to find the entrance. Luckily, I was allowed inside and began my exploration of the oldest Spanish stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere.

Constructed between 1555 and 1577, to safeguard against pirate attacks, it later became the official residence of the Governor of Havana and served as Cuba’s National Archive and National Library. After the Revolution, it housed government offices and a museum of arms. Today, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, serves as a Museum of Ceramics and a Maritime Museum.

After making my way through the lower level and discovering the maritime artifacts located there, I ventured to the second level which houses the bulk of the Maritime Museum and includes the Naval Model-Making Salon and the Underwater Archeology Warehouse. The most spectacular part of the second level, however, is the watchtower which was added in 1634 and is now a symbol of the city. This watchtower is adorned with a bronze statuette, a replica of La Giraldilla of the Seville Cathedral and is used as a weather vane. Though I originally had no knowledge of this watchtower, it was the ladies keeping watch over the museum salons who wanted me to see what made the castle special, that unlocked the door and let me out on the balcony to see it up close!

Upon my departure from the castle, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas. As I entered the gates of El Templete, I was taken aback by the neoclassical architecture, not very common in Havana. The small Greco-Roman temple with Doric columns, dates back to 1827, and was erected in the place where it was believed that the Villa de San Cristobal de la Habana was founded in 1519. Though the workers were in the process of closing the premises for the day, they allowed me to take a quick peek to see the three valuable paintings by French painter Juan Bautista Vermey, which depict the first mass, the first council and the blessing of the Templete on its inauguration.

Inside the courtyard, you can spy the Column of Cajigal which honors the Spanish governor in charge of its construction, an image of the Virgin of Pilar, patroness of Spanish sailors (atop the column), and a marble bust of Governor Don Hernando de Soto, the first governor of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana. The ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in various religions, is one of many that has stood on the site. The latest has existed since 1960 and on November 16, residents come to the tree after midnight, circle it three times and throw a coin to its roots and make a wish.

Crossing the plaza, I stepped into the courtyard of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, the former offical residence of the governors of Havana. Dating back to the late 1700’s, it is home to the Museum of the City of Havana and houses exhibitions of art and historical artifacts. Though I would have loved to see the interior and its original colonial decor, the palace was closing for the day.

Though I was disappointed in not having had the opportunity to visit the palace, I stepped back into the street, which I discovered was paved with wooden blocks. This was the first time I had ever seen this and believe me, it was pretty cool!

Walking past the plaza, I made my way past the Mezquita Addallah and Parque Guayasamin toward the beautiful Old Town Square. Though there are many squares and plazas throughout the city, this one was my favorite. Laid out in 1559, this square offers buildings in many different architectural styles, as well as a fountain and unique sculpture. It was here that I finally encountered the Town Dogs.

I learned about the Town Dogs during my tour that morning but even though I had kept a keen eye out, I had not encountered any of them. The Town Dogs are designated as such by the mayor, protected and cared for by the city, each being vaccinated and sterilized. They wear a tag bearing their names and addresses and are free to roam on their own. Lounging on the steps of the Camera Obscura, I found Nina and P. Oblivious to the fact that I was excited to see them, neither were extremely cooperative about giving me a photogenic look…probably because they also had had a long day and were as tired as I was!

Spying a restaurant balcony with seating across the square, I made a beeline in that general direction. The Don Eduardo Alegre Bar and Restaurant was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the amazing view below, the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer and the perfect way to end my day!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio

Address: Calle Compostela y Cuarteles Loma del Ángel, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0700-1900, daily
Admission: free

Catedral de San Cristobal

Address: Calle Empedrado 156 , La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday 1030-1200, Sunday Mass at 0900.
Admission: free. Tower access, $1 CUC ($1 US)

Castello de la Real Fuerza

Address: Plaza de Armas e/Calle O’Reilly y Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0830-1830, daily
Admission: $1 CUC ($1 US)

Hoofing It Thru Havana

Especial del dia…pollo con queso en trigo.

As I sat in the sanwicheria, eating my chicken and cheese sandwich, I contemplated how to tackle parts of the city which I had not seen that day or on my previous day’s ventures.

Should I make my way to the waterside area bordering Avenue del Puerto for its many museums and churches, venture out to the Malecon’s architectural wonders and take in the fresh sea air or head south to the Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market to seek out some exclusive treasures?

Finally deciding to head north, I made my way along the narrow, dusty streets stopping to capture the captivating architecture and scenes of daily life on my camera. What fascinated me most, however, were the small markets and the carnicerias…not for what they offered or for their appearances, but how locals were required to stand outside in long lines to purchase products. I was a bit confused with the markets, especially, as people stood with their noses pressed against the windows while shopkeepers unlocked the door and allowed one person inside at irregular intervals. After speaking with my host, I learned that purchases are regulated by the government and it is sometimes difficult for locals to obtain necessities. Thankfully, drinks (beer, water and soda) and food were provided by my host and charged to my account, so I never had to figure out how to gain admission into these exchanges.

Continuing on, I decided to conquer the northern part of the city, starting with the Museum of the Revolution. After paying my admission and checking my backpack in the baggage room, I made my through the former Presidential Palace, which dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1913. The awe-inspiring building was decorated by Tiffany’s of New York, contains a jaw-dropping double staircase and many exquisite rooms including the Salón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors), which resembles the room in the Palace of Versailles, the Salón Dorado, used for banquets and decorated in Louis XVI style, the Despacho Presidencial, the President’s office where Fidel Castro was sworn in in 1959 and the chapel with its Tiffany chandelier.

*Salón de los Espejos* (*Hall of Mirrors*)

Though I was originally unaware of Cuba’s history, especially during the revolutionary period, the displays, though mostly captioned in Spanish, contain much documentation and photographic evidence of Batista’s overthrow and a somewhat skewed view of Castro’s seizure of power. There is a large array of artifacts, clothing (including blood-stained and bullet riddled uniforms), letters, documents, weapons and newspapers. If you look carefully or have a guide point it out to you, you can spy the bullet holes in the walls, near the staircase, from the students’ attempt at overthrowing the government in 1957.

In the rear of the building you can find the Granma, the vessel that brought Castro, Guevara and eighty-two others to Cuba in 1956 with the purpose of overthrowing the regime of Fulgencio Batista. Due to preservation purposes, be warned, the ship is partly obscured by the surrounding glass and continuously guarded. There are other vehicles associated with the revolution surrounding the pavilion, including planes, rockets and an old postal van that was used as a getaway car during the 1957 attack. In the courtyard and throughout the museum, there were many art pieces by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.

*Sculpture by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.*

In addition to seeing many other tourists within the museum, I was a bit taken aback to find many locals as well. I later learned, however, the museum was designed primarily to help Cubans understand their own history.

Exiting the museum, I stopped to take a look at the fragment of the former city wall and the SAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs battle. Just beyond these landmarks, I made my way through the Plaza Trece de Marzo, passing the statue of patriot José Marti on horseback, a gift from U.S. donors through a fund initiated by the Bronx Museum of the Arts. The original bronze statue of Marti on horseback, by equine sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington (from which this was modeled) can be seen in New York’s Central Park.

Walking a ways on the Paseo de Marti, again, I was in awe of the architectural gems. Although some were a shadow of their former selves, you could see the artistry that still prevails. This must have been a beautiful place to walk in its heyday and today is still a nice place to stroll with its colorfully, tiled walkways, large shade trees and dedicated effigies.

Crossing the traffic circle near the Spanish embassy, I walked up to the monument that we had passed earlier in the day during my tour…that of General Maximo Gomez, a commander in the wars for independence. The statue is well maintained and frequented by youngsters who used the wide open area to skate.

As the breeze from the Bay of Havana beckoned me toward the water, I found myself at the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, one of the four historic forts that defended Port Havana. Built more than 400 years ago, San Salvador de la Punta Castle is also one of the three fortresses that appear on the Cuban coat of arms.

Castle La Punta and Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the fort I had visited on my tour earlier during the day, were both built on either sides of the channel’s entry. For centuries, a chain barrier was stretched across the canal to prevent access into the port. If this did not deter marauders, pirates and anyone else with ill-intent, there were many large cannons pointed toward the water.

Today, the castle’s moat is no longer functional and the castle no longer serves in its original capacity. Renovated in 2002, to restore it to its original historic appearance, its interior houses the Castle Museum. There are several rooms that inform about the castle’s history and construction, displays of naval models, various objects from sunken Spanish fleets and information about underwater archeology and the slave trade. Intricate models of other castles in Spain, Italy and Cuba can be found on the lower level and many cannons and artillery can be found on the upper level. Don’t plan on asking for any assistance, the staff has other things to do during the mid-day hours! Can anyone say siesta?

After taking in the castle’s interior, make sure to walk around the promenade that surrounds the castle. Here, you can check out dedications to other castles, statues, cannons and fantastic views of the channel, Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, La Cabana and the Malecón. Take a moment to cross back over the roadway to check out the Monument to the Eight Medical Students, a Greek-style temple, built in 1890, in memory of the students executed in the city in 1871, who were accused of violating the grave of a Spanish journalist and the Real Carcel de La Habana, the remains of a 19th century jail where political figures were incarcerated.

*Monument to the Eight Medical Students*

At the beginning of my afternoon, one of the options I considered was making my way along the waterway on the Avenue Del Puerto. I had already seen so much of Havana and there was still so much on my agenda, especially in this area. It was hard to believe I had already seen so many interesting places.

With the walkway bordering the channel nearby, I decided that that would be my general direction. Sunset was many hours away, leaving me with ample time to continue my explorations…what else would I find in this beautiful, old city?

To be continued…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Museo de Revolucion

Address: Calle Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Zulueta, Havana 10600 Cuba
Hours: 0930-1600, daily
Admission: Adult Nationals, $8 CUC ($8 US), Under 12 years, free. Adults, International, $10 CUC ($10 US) Guided tours, $2 ($2 US), only available in Spanish. Ticket office open from 0930-1600.

Plaza 13 de Marzo and Statue of José Marti

Address: Agramonte (y Genios), Havana, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Monument to General Maximo Gomez

Address: Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta

Address: Paseo de Marti Prado y Av. del Puerto, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0900-1700, Wednesday to Sunday
Admission: $6 CUC ($6 US)

Monument to the Eight Medical Students

Address: 4JWR+4W, Havana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Symbol of the City

When you scan the skyline of Segovia, there are many steeples and belltowers.

One stands out above the rest.

The Gothic bell tower of the Cathedral of Segovia, the symbol of the city.

After my inspection of the cathedral, I had decided to skip the bell tower tour since I had a lot more to see within the city and didn’t want to have to return to the cathedral at a later time. Walking out of the cathedral and past the Plaza Mayor, I suddenly had a change of heart and ventured back.

Paying my admission, I hastily made my way to the Chapel of San Blas where the tour was to begin.

It was a few minutes after the hour and I ducked into the chapel, trying to join the group without disturbing the guide’s opening comments. After her introduction was complete, we were ushered to the corner of the chapel where the entrance to the bell tower staircase was hidden.

The original cathedral bell tower was constructed of American mahogany, but destroyed by fire in 1614. This ancient structure was the tallest in Spain, at a height of just over 354 feet. The tower was rebuilt with stone and began undergoing renovations in 2004, but it wasn’t until a full decade later that the tower was opened to tourists and visitors.

Beginning the tour, the guide led us up the winding, spiral staircase, until we reached our first stop, the Audiovisual Room. Taking a seat, we were immersed in a video with three dimensional recreations which explained the cathedral’s and tower’s history as well as information on the works of art and spaces within the temple. Before making our way to the stairway to begin the climb once again, we were able to take in the series of seventeenth century tapestries which tell the story of the general Pompey the Great, woven in Brussels.

A bit breathless, we reached the the next level of the bell tower, the Ringer’s House. Four rooms consisting of a living room, kitchen and two bedrooms, make up the former residence where the bell ringers and their families lived until 1950. Our guide broke down the daily lives of the bell ringer and what it entailed.

Climbing further still, we found ourselves in the Clock Room, where there are more of the tapestries from the life of Pompey the Great. Named for the clock located inside (similar to the one located in Puerta del Sol in Madrid), which was manufactured in 1882 in Strasbourg, you can understand how the bell ringer performs his job with access to the bells through strings connected to the bell tower from his house. We were also rewarded with a reproduction of the sounds of the bells that originally rang out.

Finally, after one last push up the remaining of the tower’s 308 stairs, we arrived at the bell tower. From this highest viewpoint in the city, we were rewarded with outstanding panoramic views of the Aqueduct, numerous Romansque churches and their own towers, the Alcazar, the city wall, the Jewish cemetery and the monasteries and convents as well as the nearby mountains and plateaus. More importantly, it is here that the bells that ruled the city’s life are located.

Staring at these carillons from the inside of the tower is certainly a unique perspective and some of the ten bells date back to the eighteenth century. Each of the bells can be identified by the placard located near the bell which apprises visitors of the year it was cast, its weight and diameter.

While the bells no longer resonate from this important tower, if you close your eyes and use your imagination, you might hear a slight whisper from the past, breaking the silence of the city’s skies.

Bong…

Visitors to Segovia will have many opportunities to see the city from different perspectives. Brave the climb and make sure that this is one of them!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Bell Tower of the Cathedral of Segovia

https://catedralsegovia.es/torre/
Address: Calle del Marques del Arco 1, Segovia, 40003
Tour Hours: Daily, November 1 to March 31, 1030, 1200, 1330 and 1630. April 1 to October 31, 1030, 1200, 1630, 1800 and 1930. Night tours, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, May to October, 2130.
Admission: 3€