segovia – Snapping The Globe

Segovia’s San Martin

There are about fifty-four churches in Segovia.

Of course, I wanted to see them all.

But sometimes you don’t always get what you want.

Many churches were closed at the early hour when I made my way through the city. Many were only open at certain times. Of course, I was able to visit the cathedral, but I wanted there to be more.

After more misses than hits, I was finally able to find a church with some historical significance that was open for visitation.

The Church of San Martin.

In the prime location of the Plaza de Medina del Campo, there is an important Romanesque church, built in the 12th century and known for its unique design and structure. Its tower, which was designed in the Romanesque-Mudejar style is topped by a Baroque spire and the body of the church offers alluring porticos on three of its sides and a large fortified tower, the Torreon, built in the 14th century.

As I entered the church and paid my admission, I learned that a ticket can be purchased which covers most of the churches within the city. Since it was the end of my day, I opted to pay the single admission and begin my exploration.

The church has been restored on multiple occasions with reconstructions of some parts and the elimination of others. It is a rather small structure and takes only a short time to make your way throughout its ancient interior which consists of three naves and three apses.

The high altar commanded my attention with its beautiful gilded altarpiece. There are some interesting statues and altarpieces in the side chapels as well a prostrate statue of Jesus. The church is dimly lit which lends to its intimate appearance. It was interesting to note that the church boasts a dome, however, it is not visible from the inside as it is covered in plaster.

Moving on to the exterior, I was able to reexamine the doorways from which I had entered the church. These doors are quite beautiful made of arched archivolts. Continuing along the arcaded galleries, I was able to study the religious scenes which decorate the Romanesque capitals. Some have been restored and also focus on God’s creatures…lions, birds, griffins among others. There are also some scenes of the Nativity, the Annunciation, the Flight Into Egypt, the Massacre of the Innocents, the Presentation of Jesus at the Temple, the Resurrenction of Lazarus, the entry into Jerusalem, the Last Supper, the Betrayer of Judas and the Ascension.

Once my tour of the galleries was complete, I made my way around the entire exterior of the church’s walls. I discovered the image of the Saint Bishop San Martin de Tours (12th century) and gazed skyward at the bell tower. Though this particular one does not soar as high as the cathedral’s, it and the galleries, do lend to the unique beauty of the square.

Although my visit was short, it was extremely fulfilling to visit the ancient temple.

There are many other churches throughout the city. Try catching them during opening hours. Though I can’t vouch for the beauty of their interiors, some of their exteriors are extremely pleasing to the eye and have a rich history.

Segovia’s religious history is one to investigate.

Other churches within the city’s limits.

*Small Church on Calle la Juderia Vieja*

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Iglesia de San Martin

https://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres/arte/monumentos/segovia/iglesia_de_san_martin.html
Address: Plaza Medina del Campo, s/n, 40001 Segovia
Hours: 0900-1700 (not verified)
Admission: 3€

The Symbol of the City

When you scan the skyline of Segovia, there are many steeples and belltowers.

One stands out above the rest.

The Gothic bell tower of the Cathedral of Segovia, the symbol of the city.

After my inspection of the cathedral, I had decided to skip the bell tower tour since I had a lot more to see within the city and didn’t want to have to return to the cathedral at a later time. Walking out of the cathedral and past the Plaza Mayor, I suddenly had a change of heart and ventured back.

Paying my admission, I hastily made my way to the Chapel of San Blas where the tour was to begin.

It was a few minutes after the hour and I ducked into the chapel, trying to join the group without disturbing the guide’s opening comments. After her introduction was complete, we were ushered to the corner of the chapel where the entrance to the bell tower staircase was hidden.

The original cathedral bell tower was constructed of American mahogany, but destroyed by fire in 1614. This ancient structure was the tallest in Spain, at a height of just over 354 feet. The tower was rebuilt with stone and began undergoing renovations in 2004, but it wasn’t until a full decade later that the tower was opened to tourists and visitors.

Beginning the tour, the guide led us up the winding, spiral staircase, until we reached our first stop, the Audiovisual Room. Taking a seat, we were immersed in a video with three dimensional recreations which explained the cathedral’s and tower’s history as well as information on the works of art and spaces within the temple. Before making our way to the stairway to begin the climb once again, we were able to take in the series of seventeenth century tapestries which tell the story of the general Pompey the Great, woven in Brussels.

A bit breathless, we reached the the next level of the bell tower, the Ringer’s House. Four rooms consisting of a living room, kitchen and two bedrooms, make up the former residence where the bell ringers and their families lived until 1950. Our guide broke down the daily lives of the bell ringer and what it entailed.

Climbing further still, we found ourselves in the Clock Room, where there are more of the tapestries from the life of Pompey the Great. Named for the clock located inside (similar to the one located in Puerta del Sol in Madrid), which was manufactured in 1882 in Strasbourg, you can understand how the bell ringer performs his job with access to the bells through strings connected to the bell tower from his house. We were also rewarded with a reproduction of the sounds of the bells that originally rang out.

Finally, after one last push up the remaining of the tower’s 308 stairs, we arrived at the bell tower. From this highest viewpoint in the city, we were rewarded with outstanding panoramic views of the Aqueduct, numerous Romansque churches and their own towers, the Alcazar, the city wall, the Jewish cemetery and the monasteries and convents as well as the nearby mountains and plateaus. More importantly, it is here that the bells that ruled the city’s life are located.

Staring at these carillons from the inside of the tower is certainly a unique perspective and some of the ten bells date back to the eighteenth century. Each of the bells can be identified by the placard located near the bell which apprises visitors of the year it was cast, its weight and diameter.

While the bells no longer resonate from this important tower, if you close your eyes and use your imagination, you might hear a slight whisper from the past, breaking the silence of the city’s skies.

Bong…

Visitors to Segovia will have many opportunities to see the city from different perspectives. Brave the climb and make sure that this is one of them!

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The Bell Tower of the Cathedral of Segovia

https://catedralsegovia.es/torre/
Address: Calle del Marques del Arco 1, Segovia, 40003
Tour Hours: Daily, November 1 to March 31, 1030, 1200, 1330 and 1630. April 1 to October 31, 1030, 1200, 1630, 1800 and 1930. Night tours, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, May to October, 2130.
Admission: 3€

The Last Claim in Spain

Some cities love to boast that they have the first cathedral built within it boundaries.

Not Segovia.

The Spanish city’s religious claim to fame is that it has the last Gothic cathedral to be built in Spain.

Started in the 16th century, the Segovia Cathedral was not finished until 1768. Sitting proudly on the Plaza Mayor, it maintains the spot where Isabella I was proclaimed the Queen of Castile.

As I strode into the Plaza Mayor, the cathedral is what commanded my attention. There were some beautiful architectural elements in the square, but it was the grand church’s Gothic exterior that commanded my attention.

After paying my admission, I made my way around the massive church designed by Juan Gil de Hontanon and constructed by his son Rodrigo. Within its enormous interior, the outer fringe of the cathedral is lined with more than twenty chapels illuminated by 16th century Flemish windows. Though each chapel was unique and interesting in its own way, my overall impression of the cathedral was one of which was impressive but rather stark compared to other cathedrals I have visited. Some of the chapels, however, stood out more than others with elaborate decoration and golden altars.

The Blessed Sacrament Chapel, one of the most outstanding in the church, which was created by Churriguera and featured stained glass windows, carved choir stalls and 16th and 17th century paintings. The third chapel on my right from the entrances, the Capilla de San Cosme y San Damian, displays a wooden lamentation group by Baroque sculptor Gregorio Fernandez.

The large, 15th century Gothic choir, in the center of the church, was quite mesmerizing with its elaborately carved stalls and old manuscripts. Directly across from the choir, protected by bars, was the high altar with an 18th century altarpiece by Sabatini. Although you can peer through the barricade to see the specifics of the altar, it is a pity that the overall beauty cannot be fully appreciated from afar.

Through an elaborate doorway, I made my way to the late Gothic cloister, which dates back prior to the cathedral’s beginnings. Strolling through the peaceful halls and admiring the maze of green gracing the center, it was in one of the corners that I found the tombs of Juan and Rodrigo Gil de Hontanon, the men responsible for the beautiful place that I was exploring.

Beyond the cloister, within the first floor of the Chapterhouse, I discovered a small museum of religious art. There were some compelling paintings, jewelry and a collection of rare antique manuscripts. The Chapterhouse itself was a rich display of of paintings and tapestries and offered an array of religious vestments and tapestries on the second floor.

The rear of the cathedral was open and I was able to inspect the gated area to examine both the exterior architectural features and the tombstones set into the terraced area.

As I walked through one of the chapels at the rear of the structure, I spied a sign which advertised guided tours to the cathedral’s belltower. Undecided about the time it was scheduled (I had a lot more ground to cover), I left the church and made it as far as the Plaza Mayor’s center. It was only 35 minutes until the beginning of the tour…how could I not take advantage of the opportunity to see the cathedral in its entirety? Heading back to the cathedral, I paid for the tour and hastily made my way to the starting point, where the guide was already addressing a small group. Listening to the guide’s opening oration, I was eager to see what was in store for our group. Good views and a lot of information I hoped.

To be continued…

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Segovia Cathedral

https://catedralsegovia.es/
Address: Calle del Marques del Arco 1, Segovia, 40003
Hours: November-March, 0900-1830, Monday through Saturday. April-October, 0900-2130, Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays.
Admission: General, €3.00, Seniors (ages 65+), €2.50, Children (under 10 years), free.

The Inspiration

As a child, one of my favorite memories was waiting for the Wonderful World of Disney movie on Sunday nights. Seeing Tinkerbell flying onto the screen in front of the Disney Castle and all of the fireworks exploding behind it, was breathtaking! The anticipation was only second to Christmas Eve when we eagerly awaited the arrival of Santa and the presents under the tree the next morning!

The mere sight of this castle, in even a picture, was enough to trigger fantasies of not only what the movie would be that week, but also what it would be like to live in or even visit this castle. Castles were what our fantasies were made of…princesses, knights in shining armor and space to run freely and have spectacular games of hide and seek.

Visitors to Disney World have often wondered how Walt Disney, the theme park’s creator, conceived and brought to fruition, this beautiful castle. Had he seen one like it somewhere?

Visitors to Segovia, go to see not only the city’s amazing aqueduct, but the beautiful castle (or alcazar) that is rumored to have been Walt’s inspiration for Disneyworld’s castle.

Now, I’m a bit of a sucker for a castle. I love not only the history and the architecture, but the princess that resides in every woman, imagines that one day she is going to wander the halls of a castle in a foreign land, doling out orders to her ladies in waiting and whiling away the hours sewing, painting, dancing and waiting for her prince. So, when I have an opportunity to see an amazing “real-life” castle, I take it!

Walking through the city of Segovia, past the aqueduct, the Plaza Mayor and the many beautiful churches and cathedrals, I headed to the outermost edge of the city. I wanted to see the castle of Segovia.

Originally built as a fortress in the 12th century, it was later used as a royal palace, state prison, Royal Artillery College and military academy and is well known throughout Spain for its distinctive architecture. It was one of the favored residences of the monarchs and a key fortress in the defense of the kingdom with its location on the granite cliffs at the convergence of the Clamores and Esrema rivers. There are many secret passages that connect to these rivers and it is the location where Isabella was crowned in 1474 as the Queen of Castile and Leon.

And yes, as I approached the castle, I could truly see the similarities to what I had once set my eyes upon on visits to Disneyworld and on Sunday night television! It is a truly fascinating spectacle and I was excited as I entered the ticket office at the forefront of the property. Ticket in hand, I crossed the drawbridge and began my exploration.

The castle is now used as a museum and a military archives building and when you enter, there are many different options of the areas to seek out. Follow the signs, as your visit is self guided, and take each space, one by one.

The highlights of the castle are its keep, its square with four towers and the hall raised by King John II of Castile which first served as a Weapons room. There are magnificent courtyards filled with statues and artillery and the Cellars in which the foundations of the castle can be found.

The Hall of the Palace contains suits of armor and leads to the Hall of the Galley with its magnificent stained glass windows representing Henry III of Castile and his family and Henry II of Castile with scenes of the death of Peter I and John II. A beautiful painting depicting the coronation of the queen Isabella I of Castile decorates one of the walls, but it is the coffered ceiling that takes center stage. The room was built by the queen of Catherine of Lancaster in 1412.

The Throne Room contains portraits of the kings, the coat of arms of the Catholic Monarchs, the throne seating and leads to the Hall of the Fireplace with its tapestry of Our Lady’s betrothal. The Royal Chamber’s main focus is the brocade covered bed, woven in gold, along with scenes of the family life of the Catholic Monarchs.

The Hall of the Kings truly took my breath away with its gold inlaid ceiling set with statues corresponding to the Kings of Asturias, Leon and Castile. There is a portrait of Philip II and two portraits of his wives, Elisabeth of Valois and Anna of Austria.

Sweeping through the Room of the Belt with its tile walls and its elaborate blue and gold ceiling, I was elated to peer through a screened partition to spy the Chapel, which was also accessible through the next hallway. This was the location where the kings and queens of the castle celebrated mass.

Finally, I ventured into the Weapons Room or Armory. The Alacazar had housed the armory of the House of Trastamara since old times and was the model of the collections of weapons that were finally collected into the Royal Armory of Madrid. Out of the back of the Weapons Room, there is a large terrace which offers views of the river below and the nearby Museo Real Casa de Moneda de Segovia and the Convento de San Juan de la Cruz.

Following the signs, I retraced my steps to the front of the castle to climb the 152 steps of the tower of John II of Castile. The large panoramic terrace gave me outstanding views of the entire city and close up views of the construction of the towers and the castle. As I stared out upon the city, my inner princess reared her head and I felt that Sunday night Disney excitement. That inner princess suddenly felt as though she was staring out on her kingdom…one she was about to set foot back upon and thoroughly discover what it was all about!

Very inspiring.

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Alcazar of Segovia

https://www.alcazardesegovia.com/
Address: Plaza Reina Victoria Eugenia, s/n, 40003 Segovia, Spain
Hours: October to March, 1000-1800 and April to September, 1000-1900. Closed December 25, January 1, January 6.
Admission: Adults, €5.00, Seniors €3.45. Citizens of the European Union can visit for free on Tuesdays from 1400-1600.
Getting There: Train, from Chamartin station in Madrid, http://www.renfre.com or http://www.thetrainline.com. By bus, from Moncloa metro station (Madrid), http://www.omio.com. After arriving in Segovia, bus #11 (2€) stops at the aqueduct and its about a 15-20 minute walk to the castle on the northwest side of the city.

The Heart of the City

In most Spanish cities, there is a main square.

The Plaza Mayor.

There are exceptions to the rule, however. In Granada, the main square is the Bib Rambla, but the Plaza Mayors in Madrid and Salamanca are two of the most famous. Having visited Madrid’s main square many times, it was no surprise to find that Segovia, too, had a square by the same name and I could not pass up the chance to discover what made this one stand apart from the others that I had visited in the past.

As I made my way down Calle Real, one of the most famous streets in Segovia, I suddenly found myself in the heart of the city. This square, under the watchful eye of the city’s magnificent cathedral, boasts several other important buildings such as the Town Hall, the Juan Bravo Theater and the San Miguel Church. There is also a small bandstand located in the middle of the plaza where the occasional musicians pound out a tune and around which the Segovian people have social gatherings and festivities.

Segovia’s Plaza Mayor was built in the 17th century as the center of the village where vendors set up their stands and citizens socialized and met. The Town Hall, (17th century), flanks the north side of the square and is the location of the majority of all Segovian events. The church of San Miguel, with its beautifully colored spire, was rebuilt in 1558 and was the location where Isabel was proclaimed Queen of Castile. I had been excited to visit this church with its Rubens painting and baroque altarpieces, however, due to the early hour, I found the door locked.

The Juan Bravo Theater, one of the newer buildings that sit on the square, was constructed in 1917 and is used by both locals and tourists for various performances.

This city square has changed names many times over the years. It was first called the Plaza Mayor upon its conception and then, during the Bourbon Restoration, Plaza de la Constitution. It was changed to Plaza de Franco after the Civil War and then changed again to its original name, Plaza Mayor at the end of Francisco Franco’s dictatorship.

As in the past, there are many outdoor cafes, shops arcades and hotels that surround the square and this is a place where you can spot many tourists who visit the city. Fiestas, such as the Frutos de Segovia, and the traditional fairs of San Juan held until the day of San Pedro on June 29 and participants can enjoy traditional fairs, folk walks, illuminations and fireworks.

It was much more of an open space than the Plaza Mayor in Madrid and extremely peaceful, especially during a day in winter, when the city is not filled with tourists seeking out its wonders. It was a mild February day when I was visiting, so I decided to sit outside and enjoy the comings and goings of the locals, while enjoying lunch and keeping an eye on the beauty of the Segovia Cathedral which was on my list of places to visit.

Ancient Segovians may have known this place by a different name, however, regardless of what alias this main plaza goes by, it can really only be known as one thing…

The heart of the city.

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Plaza Mayor

Address: Plaza Mayor 11, Segovia
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of San Miguel

Address: Calle Infanta Isabel 6, 40001, Segovia
Hours: 1100-1700, Tuesday to Sunday.
Admission: free

Town Hall

http://www.segovia.es/
Address: Mayor Square 1, 40001, Segovia
Hours: 0900-1400, Monday-Friday. Closed Saturday and Sunday
Admission: free

Juan Bravo Theater

http://www.teatrojuanbravo.org/
Address: Plaza Mayor, 9, 40001 – Segovia
Hours: varies per performance
Admission: varies per performance

The House of Spikes

Many European cities are filled with unique architecture and artwork.

Segovia is one of them.

There are cathedrals, castles, aqueducts, statues…you name it. A walk around the city is most certainly entertaining especially if you are an architecture aficionado.

When I first arrived in Segovia, I marveled at the beautiful aqueduct that sprawls across the main square, but knowing that there was much to explore, I headed deep into the city. Aiming for the city’s center, the Plaza Mayor, there was, however, a building that caught my attention, along the way.

Casa de los Picos.

The House of the Spikes.

A short walk from the famed aqueduct, I found myself on Calle Juan Bravo standing in front of a building with a most unique facade!

Built during the end of the fifteenth century in the Renaissance style, its first owner was Pedro Lopez de Ayala, the Count of Fuensalida. Left to his son, Pedro, upon his death, the house was then sold to Juan de la Hoz, a Segovian councilman. After the acquisition, de la Hoz began the transformation that made the facade what you see today.

There are 360 granite, spike-like blocks which cover the facade forming pyramid-shaped reliefs…a type of style that was common during the middle ages. As I studied the building, I was convinced that it was a fortress of some kind but learned that although it mostly operated as a residence, it changed ownership over the years many times and finally transferred to the Ministry of Education in the 1970’s. Today, it functions as a museum and exhibition center and is part of the School of the Applied Arts and Crafts.

Even if it is not a fortress, I thought it interesting to find that the house once belonged to the executioner of the city and that legend states that under one of the peaks, a treasure is hidden! I would have loved to hang around and take a look, but it was not open at the time!

Opening hours are extremely limited and although there is not much to see unless exhibitions are being held, it might be interesting to see the patio which is considered to be the highlight of the structure. Built in the Renaissance style, it is a small space with porticos on three sides with five limestone columns, three at its midpoint and two at small angles and decorated with Talavera tiles that depict the most important monuments of Segovia.

Even if you do not have much time while in Segovia to actually visit the interior, make sure that your path through the city leads you in front of this unparalleled house of spikes!

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Casa de los Picos

http://easdsegovia.com/
Address: Calle Juan Bravo, 33, 40001 Segovia, Spain
Hours: April 1 to September 30, 1200-1400 and 1900-2100, daily. October 1 to March 31, 1200-1400 and 1800-2000, daily.
Admission: free

Stunning Segovia

When you want to take a day trip from Madrid, there are many options.

Toledo. Pedraza. Consuegra. Valladolid. Segovia (to name just a few…)

The last one intrigued me. When I was last visiting with a friend, who is from Madrid, she talked a lot about Segovia and its aqueduct.

This, I had to see!

Rising early, I headed by metro to Chamartin train station. It was fairly easy to purchase my ticket and find my gate and train. A short, thirty minutes later, I was arriving in Segovia. Making my way to the front of the train station, I found bus #11, which was how I had planned to reach the city center and the famed aqueduct.

The bus ride was quick but the city scapes that we drove past were uninspiring, leaving me to wonder for a split second if I had made the wrong decision by traveling here. But, then, in the distance, there it was.

The aqueduct and the old city set up on a hill.

Jumping out of the bus, I could not contain my excitement, gazing up at the ancient Roman aqueduct, built almost 2000 years ago, the city’s most important architectural landmark. Snapping photo after photo, I finally made my way out of the traffic circle and walked along the length of the beautiful structure. One of the best preserved Roman aqueducts in the world, it has become an icon and one of the main attractions that lures visitors to the city. Covering a distance of 17 km, reaching a height of 92 feet (at its highest point) and containing 167 arches, this feat of age-old engineering was used to transport water from the Fuenfria spring to Segovia. The most amazing part of this venerable structure is that it defies the laws of gravity, standing on its own, with no kind of mortar used in its construction.

An interesting legend about Segovia’s Aqueduct is that it was the result of a pact between a girl and the devil in which she offered him her soul in exchange for water to reach her house before the crack of dawn! That devil must have been a talented engineer!

The aqueduct stretches down Calle de Ruiz de Alba and as I left the Plaza del Azoguejo to follow it’s footprint, I got my first glances of the city’s homes, businesses and other architectural features. Returning to the plaza, there were many tourists admiring the city’s coat of arms and a statue of the Blessed Virgin, housed in a niche the upper reaches of the aqueduct. There are two niches still visible, one on each side. The one housing the Virgin de la Fuenclisla, once held an image of Hercules, the purported founder of the city and the other, once held a statue of Saint Stephen. It is interesting to note that on the fourth day of December each year, the day of Saint Barbara, the patron saint of artillery, the local military drapes the image of the Virgen in a flag.

For those that are interested in learning more about the aqueduct, an interpretation center is housed in Segovia’s former mint, Real Casa de Moneda. The exhibit explains the connection between the mint and the aqueduct in that coins minted in Segovia used the aqueduct as a mint mark.

Finally, after soaking it all in, I climbed the stairs alongside the aqueduct, pausing for one long last look, before making my way into the historic part of the city.

What a site!

When my breath catches in my throat, I know that I am looking at something truly remarkable! This was one of the most amazing pieces of architecture and if this was the opening bid, what else was I going to find in this stunning city?

I couldn’t wait!

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Segovia

https://www.esmadrid.com/en/trips-segovia?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com%2F
Address: Plaza del Azoguejo 1, 40001 Segovia Spain
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Train, from Chamartin station in Madrid, http://www.renfre.com or http://www.thetrainline.com. By bus, from Moncloa metro station (Madrid), http://www.omio.com. After arriving in Segovia, bus #11 (2€) stops at the aqueduct.