The Heart of the City

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In most Spanish cities, there is a main square.

The Plaza Mayor.

There are exceptions to the rule, however. In Granada, the main square is the Bib Rambla, but the Plaza Mayors in Madrid and Salamanca are two of the most famous. Having visited Madrid’s main square many times, it was no surprise to find that Segovia, too, had a square by the same name and I could not pass up the chance to discover what made this one stand apart from the others that I had visited in the past.

As I made my way down Calle Real, one of the most famous streets in Segovia, I suddenly found myself in the heart of the city. This square, under the watchful eye of the city’s magnificent cathedral, boasts several other important buildings such as the Town Hall, the Juan Bravo Theater and the San Miguel Church. There is also a small bandstand located in the middle of the plaza where the occasional musicians pound out a tune and around which the Segovian people have social gatherings and festivities.

Cathedral of Segovia
Town Hall

Segovia’s Plaza Mayor was built in the 17th century as the center of the village where vendors set up their stands and citizens socialized and met. The Town Hall, (17th century), flanks the north side of the square and is the location of the majority of all Segovian events. The church of San Miguel, with its beautifully colored spire, was rebuilt in 1558 and was the location where Isabel was proclaimed Queen of Castile. I had been excited to visit this church with its Rubens painting and baroque altarpieces, however, due to the early hour, I found the door locked.

Church of San Miguel

The Juan Bravo Theater, one of the newer buildings that sit on the square, was constructed in 1917 and is used by both locals and tourists for various performances.

Juan Bravo Theater

This city square has changed names many times over the years. It was first called the Plaza Mayor upon its conception and then, during the Bourbon Restoration, Plaza de la Constitution. It was changed to Plaza de Franco after the Civil War and then changed again to its original name, Plaza Mayor at the end of Francisco Franco’s dictatorship.

As in the past, there are many outdoor cafes, shops arcades and hotels that surround the square and this is a place where you can spot many tourists who visit the city. Fiestas, such as the Frutos de Segovia, and the traditional fairs of San Juan held until the day of San Pedro on June 29 and participants can enjoy traditional fairs, folk walks, illuminations and fireworks.

It was much more of an open space than the Plaza Mayor in Madrid and extremely peaceful, especially during a day in winter, when the city is not filled with tourists seeking out its wonders. It was a mild February day when I was visiting, so I decided to sit outside and enjoy the comings and goings of the locals, while enjoying lunch and keeping an eye on the beauty of the Segovia Cathedral which was on my list of places to visit.

Ancient Segovians may have known this place by a different name, however, regardless of what alias this main plaza goes by, it can really only be known as one thing…

The heart of the city.

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Plaza Mayor

  • Address: Plaza Mayor 11, Segovia
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Church of San Miguel

  • Address: Calle Infanta Isabel 6, 40001, Segovia
  • Hours: 1100-1700, Tuesday to Sunday.
  • Admission: free

Town Hall

  • http://www.segovia.es/
  • Address: Mayor Square 1, 40001, Segovia
  • Hours: 0900-1400, Monday-Friday. Closed Saturday and Sunday
  • Admission: free

Juan Bravo Theater

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