“Don’t cry because it’s over. Smile because it happened.” – Dr. Seuss
Our last morning. It was a day of mixed emotions…sad to be packing up and leaving the beautiful country of Croatia, but also glad to have had the wonderful experiences during our vacation…the good (the weather, the amazing apartments, new friends), the bad (not making it to Mostar, “vampire” flyovers) and the ugly (putting the rental car in a precarious position)!
There were so many things that we had been able to enjoy and see during our stay and it wasn’t quite over, I would soon discover. While we had seen most of what makes Dubrovnik special, it still had one more surprise up its sleeve on this day.
As we locked up our Airbnb and headed to the Stradun and past the Dominican Monastery, we booked our Uber to the airport. Following the pickup directions, we soon learned that there was yet another gate to the old town that we had yet to find…Vrata od Ploča.
Vrata od Ploča (the gate from Ploče) is the eastern entrance to Dubrovnik’s old town, built in 1450. Exiting through it, passing the inner door topped with a figure of St. Vlaho, we walked over a stone bridge which spanned a moat and a wooden lifting bridge and received stunning views of the harbor, thanks to our efforts.
Vrata od Ploča
Vrata od Ploča
A large flock of pigeons sat on the nearby walls and under the trees, eyeing us warily as we walked by. Suddenly, without warning, they took us by surprise as they all took flight in one great motion. Flapping their wings, it was if they were both saying goodbye and showing us that it was time for us to fly home too.
Sculpture along the waterfront
After our short ride to Čilipi International Airport, we too were soaring above the Croatian coastline. Spotting Dubronik almost immediately and then the Pakleni and Elafiti Islands, as well as Split, we happily reflected on the good memories we had shared…and even the bad and the ugly ones…because, it takes all kinds to make a trip what it is, in the end!
Croatia from the sky.
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Vrata od Ploča
Address: Ul. Vrata od Ploča, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
This was our final day in Croatia. It needed to count.
Since my husband had been a good sport and seen many churches and monasteries with me over the past week, I decided to give him a break. He wanted to walk around and look at his own leisure. Me? I wanted to go to the Franciscan Monastery and the Cathedral of Dubrovnik, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.
The Franciscan Monastery has an interesting history in that it contains one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. The complex, built around 1317, was initially located outside of the city gates. Moved due to the threat of war, it now stands just inside the Pile Gate and can be visited regularly which is where I headed first.
Entrance to the Franciscan Monastery Museum
Located beside the Holy Savior Church and built by the Franciscans who arrived in Dubrovnik around 1234, it contains two cloisters; one built in the Renaissance style with grand arches and the other in the Romanesque and Gothic styles boasting 120 columns. The Renaissance cloisters were much like many others I had seen before, however, it was the upper cloisters that I longed to see with its carved columns depicting animals and humans, which were not open to the public.
Once one of the wealthiest churches in the city, it was largely destroyed by the earthquake of 1667. Today, only part of its treasury is on display, however, it is the pharmacy, dating back to 1317 that people come for. Since the Franciscans are known for their devotion to the sick, the pharmacy aided their mission but also served the public, giving the friars a steady income. On display, you can see many of the old manuscripts that the friars used in the creation of their pharmaceuticals as well as the tools of their trade. You can also stop into the actual pharmacy to make any medical purchases you may need.
Franciscan Monastery Treasury and MuseumFranciscan Monastery Treasury and Museum
After my tour was complete, I headed to the Dubrovnik Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, making my way through the endless passageways and streets that make up the city. I had passed by this cathedral numerous times, but had not had the time to enter and discover what made it so special and the seat of the Diocese of Dubrovnik.
Sights in Dubrovnik
Sights in Dubrovnik
Sights in Dubrovnik
Sights in Dubrovnik
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Built on the site of several formal cathedrals dating back to the 7th, 10th, 11th and 12th centuries, this Baroque church was completed in 1713 after the previous had also been destroyed in the earthquake of 1667.
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
While it is the large dome that dominates the interior, it appears to be more modern than its 1700s origins. The main altar is decorated with carved panels which portray the Assumption of the Virgin and its treasury contains 182 relics from different regents; relics from the head, arm, and leg of Dubrovnik patron saint St Blasius, sacral dishes from the 13th to 18th centuries, and a large number of precious paintings. These relics are displayed in a small chapel from which you can gain access by paying a small entrance fee. Photographs are prohibited, but since I was the only visitor there at the time, I was able to capture a few, the most captivating displaying the gilded ceiling centered with a cherubic composition.
Chapel of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Chapel of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
An interesting note about the cathedral is that it is said that while Richard the Lionheart was shipwrecked in Dubrovnik in 1192, he contributed a great sum towards the building of the cathedral, hoping to gain favor in the eyes of the Lord for his survival.
After my explorations were complete and my husband and I had a quick lunch, we stopped by our apartment to don more appropriate boat gear and lather up for an afternoon in the Croatian sun! Heading down to the port, we waited for Ivusa who picked us up promptly at our designated time.
Dodging the intermittent boat traffic in the harbor, we were soon on our way, passing the walls of the city, which we had stood upon a week ago, looking out on this very same water that we were now cruising through. It was a beautiful day with only a few clouds in the sky, although not extremely hot as it was now the beginning of October.
Port of DubrovnikWalls of Dubrovnik’s Old TownElafiti IslandsElafiti Islands
The Elafiti Islands’ scenery was absolutely gorgeous and we sipped upon ice cold beers that Ivusa procured from a chest he had brought for the occasion. Pulling into a small cave, he displayed his expert boatmanship, maneuvering easily in the small space so we could see its interior. A little further up the rocky coast, he cut off the engine and showed us a small opening just above the water. Other boats had pulled up in this area and a few people were swimming toward the opening. This was the Blue Cave that I had seen in my friend’s pictures and we were invited to jump on in and have a look!
Cave in the Elafiti Islands
Now, while my son and I were in Capri, we took a boat into the Blue Grotto…it was much hotter there at the time, but I didn’t have to swim in cold water…into a small space. As an advanced scuba diver, you would think that I wouldn’t have been as nervous as I was, but as I eyed my husband in the water, waiting on me, I decided that you can’t pass up an opportunity and jumped right in. When I tell you that the water was cold…well, I can’t even describe how it took my breath away. For good measure, I took a small float with me and swam for dear life toward the opening!
As we ducked under the water and into the small cave, I suddenly forgot that my feet were numb and marveled at the color of the water as we faced the opening. Simply amazing!
The Blue Cave in the Elafiti Islands
Successfully making it back to the boat, we were on our way again in the island chain, pulling into the harbor of Sudurad. I had told Ivusa that I loved visiting churches and he said that this small island contained approximately thirty churches which were built in the middle ages. Many were in a ruined state, but as we pulled adjacent to the dock, he pointed out a tower Pakljena from 1529 and the Church of the Holy Spirit which contains a flat roof, the largest of its kind in the Adriatic.
Sudurad
My husband and I set out on foot to do some quick explorations, passing small restaurants and facilities offering olive oil and wine tastings, as the island cultivates a great quantity of olives, grapes as well as figs.
Sudurad
Sudurad
Sudurad
Sudurad
Sudurad
Our visit was short and we headed back to the boat to continue our tour, soon pulling up to the dock in Lopud. A much larger island than Sudurad, we decided to head (yes, at my suggestion) towards the church tower, which, coincidentally we discovered was a Franciscan Monastery built in 1493! The church and grounds were open for inspection and we took our time enjoying the view from the hilltop.
LopudLopud
Lopud
Franciscan Monastery
Franciscan Monastery
Afterward, we made our way back along the western waterfront, browsing the shops, admiring the sandy beach and popping in to see a small chapel, Crkva Bezgresno zacece BDMarije, which I presume belongs to the Catholic Church, though I couldn’t find more information after visit. We enjoyed more of the scenery and a beer and then headed back to the boat and a waiting Ivusa.
LopudLopudChapelLopud
The day was growing late and the sun getting lower in the sky. Heading back toward Dubrovnik in the waning light, Ivusa ensured that we had the best sunset views. As we approached Dubrovnik, it was dark and the hilltop lights sparkled on the water. Quite the magical ending to a magical day…and of course, a magical week!
Sunset in the Elafiti Islands
Sunset in the Elafiti Islands
Dubrovnik Night Lights
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All good things must come to an end, but better things may be in store.
Our time exploring other parts of Croatia was complete, but we were leaving beautiful little Hvar Town, heading back to the beautiful city of Dubrovnik and now we knew what to expect. There were many things we wanted to do and see, including our new friend, Ivusa.
Our ferry from Hvar Town to Dubrovnik
The ferry ride was a bit longer this time, but included a stop to pick up and deposit other passengers in Korčula. Since I was able to grab a spot on the back deck as we made our way to the dock, I had prime viewing of the beautiful old city. Why didn’t we spend a few days here? Definitely next time!
Lovely Korčula!
Four hours later, after our departure from Hvar, we were disembarking in Dubrovnik and catching a taxi to the Old Town. Our Airbnb, this time, was within the Old Town city walls…in fact, it was adjacent to Stradun, the city’s main pedestrian street, so a bit more convenient in that we didn’t have to climb twenty-two billion stairs!
Martecchini Airbnb apartment
After depositing our luggage in our room, we were off!
The Dominican Monastery, just around the corner, was first on our list. Dating back to the 14th century, the monastery is one of the most important architectural landmarks in the city and contains a great number of paintings, artifacts, jewelry and other items from Dubrovnik’s history. Its bell towers are prominent when walking the walls of the city, however, these not quite being as old as the monastery itself. Begun in the 16th century, they were only completed in the 18th.
Within the monastery, is the Gothic church of Saint Dominic, usually richly decorated and filled with treasures including the large golden crucifix above the main altar from the 14th century. Under construction at the time, we had to use our imaginations in order to “see” what it usually presents. The monastery museum was also quite intriguing with its vast jewelry collection and paintings from the Dubrovnik art school from the 15th and 16th centuries.
Churchof St. Dominic
Treasures from the Dominican Monastery MuseumTreasures from the Dominican Monastery MuseumTreasures from the Dominican Monastery Museum
Making our way through the abbey, we noted the Capital Hall, where the monastic community held its meetings, and the porches of the cloister which were added in the 15th century. Within the cloister is a rich green oasis complete with a stone well crown and I would imagine this was a favorite place for the residents to relax and enjoy nature’s beauty.
After our visit was complete, we walked a short distance, past the clock tower, to the Church of St. Blaise. The steps of this church is both a meeting place, due to its central location near the clock tower, and a resting place, perfect for people watching. We also noticed that many from the community congregate here, including the children, who play games on the steps and in Luza Square in front of the church.
Clock Tower
Church of St. BlaiseChurch of St. Blaise
The interior of this church did not disappoint my “church fascination” with its beautifully decorated golden altar, taking my breath away when I entered. Named after the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the church was built in 1715, by Venetian architect and sculptor Marino Gropelli on the foundations of a past Romanesque medieval church. This saint is featured on the main altar in gilt silver, crafted in the 15th century by an unknown master. In the saint’s left hand is a scale model of the Romanesque church which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1667 and he is flanked by two kneeling angels. This statue was the only one which survived the fire of 1706.
Church of St. Blaise
In front of the church is another of Dubrovnik’s landmarks, Orlando’s column. Unfortunately, this was under renovation and closed off by metal fencing. This tall and slender stone flag column is decorated with a depiction of a medieval knight, Orlando, who according to legend, helped the people of old Dubrovnik defeat invaders in the middle ages. A monument to freedom, it details the help aquired to remain a free trade city-state and acts as a flag holder which displays the Libertas (freedom) flag as well as the St. Blaise festival flag. An interesting note about the statue; the knight’s forearm is 51.25 centimeters long, the standard Dubrovnik measurement for fabric, where local merchants were measuring, cutting and selling fabric.
Orlando’s Column (under construction)
Orlando’s Column courtesy of justdubrovnik.com
A little further down the Stradun, we headed into the Franciscan Church. Much as I wanted to visit the Monastery and Museum, I decided to wait until the next morning as I thought that seeing another monastery was probably not what my husband had in mind. The church was a good compromise as the afternoon was nearing its end and he was anxious to start happy hour and revisit Lady Pipi restaurant which was near this location.
A large complex, consisting of the church, monastery, library, and pharmacy, belonging to the Order of the Friars Minor, was built in 1317, but with its construction taking centuries to complete. The original church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1667 and much of the complex was rebuilt several times with the only remaining element being the decorated portal which overlooks the main street.
Franciscan Church
Franciscan Church
The Baroque interior was stunning as we entered through the main doors with its diagonally patterned tile floor and and large, gilded chandelier. The main altar contained a statue of Christ between four twisted marble columns and the five side altars were sculpted by Venetian Giuseppe Sardi between 1684 and 1696. An important side note, we learned, is that poet Ivan Gundulić is buried in the church.
Continuing our explorations, we decided to see more of what lay beyond the gates. A short walk past the Pile Gate, through which we had entered earlier on our return, brought us past the Amerling Fountain, the overlook for the Beach Sulic, which we would later realize was the place Cersei Lannister on Game of Thrones would stand, the Imperial Hilton Hotel and almost to the Church of St. Elizabeth, a small chapel. Heading back to the Old Town, we wandered through its streets and alleyways appreciating the architecture and its beauty.
Amerling Fountain
Overlook for the Beach SulicSites outside Dubrovnik’s Pile Gate
Imperial Hilton Hotel
Chapel of St. Elizabeth
Dubrovnik’s Pile GateOld Town SitesOld Town SitesOld Town SitesOld Town Sites
At this point, my husband was truly at the end of his touring mode…but I spotted the Church of the Holy Annunciation. Promising only a quick peek, I ducked in and inspected the Serbian Orthodox church which was constructed in 1887. Though I was only inside for a few moments, I learned later that this impressive church has a huge collection of icons dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries within its museum and an impressive library containing over 12,000 volumes, including a gospel in Russian printed in Moscow in 1805.
Church of the Holy Annunciation
Finally, it was time for the long walk up the stairs for our grilled seafood platter “A La Pipi”!
“It’s about time!” said my husband. Long days definitely lead to good things!
Old Town at Night
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After the constant travel we had experienced on our vacation so far, we decided that we needed a relaxing beach day!
Wanting to explore the nearby Pakleni islands, we decided that renting a boat for the day would be the best option since we own a boat at home and have experience on the water. We awakened early, headed to the small harbor and sought out a vendor. After a lot of questions with a lot of people, we were informed that since the onset of Covid we would not be able to rent the boat ourselves but rather with the assistance of a captain. I don’t know what Covid had to do with any of this, however, the addition of a captain made it quite expensive and much less private than we desired.
Instead, we analyzed the signs along the Riva advertising the water taxis and their destinations.
Palmizana Beach on Sveti Klement Island.
Mlini and Zdrilica beaches on Marinkovac Island.
Kordovon beach on Jerolim Island.
Right away, we knew that Jerolim was out of contention as it’s home to a nudist beach…not that we have a problem with that…it’s just that my body isn’t in as great a shape as it once was! Kordovon beach is one of the oldest Adriatic nudist beaches (established in the 1950s) and has been voted by CNN as the most beautiful naturist beach in Europe…sorry we had to miss it!
When we had solicited the opinions the day before at the Visitor’s bureau, from our waiters and our host, some had suggested Milini for its beauty, others had suggested Palmizana for its sheer size and facilities.
Finally, we decided to just throw caution to the wind and flipped a coin…Palmizana won! We hopped on board the next water taxi, with a handful of other travelers, and held on as our boat made its way across open water towards the islands.
Water taxi ride to Palmizana.
View of Hvar Town and its mighty fortress.
Boats along the way.
A short time later, we approached a dock and were allowed to disembark. Following a path and the other passengers, we made our way to the other side of the island where Palmizana beach spread out before us, sparkling and pristine.
Building on Palmizana island.
Sites on Palmizana island.
Renting an umbrella and two chairs, we proceeded to relax and enjoy the sun for the majority of the day with a break to enjoy a couple of beers from one of the restaurants that remained open, since it was the last day of the tourist season.
Palmizana Beach
The beach was a bit pebbly and waters crystal clear, albeit a bit cold for our liking, but all in all the adventure was worth it! It was nice to relax after all of our adventures.
Water taxi back to Hvar Town.
During the late afternoon, we headed back to the dock to make the boat crossing back to Hvar Town. My husband was a bit sunburned and anxious to take a break in the apartment, but I spotted the Cathedral of St. Stephen’s doors open, so I opted to take a quick peek!
Cathedral of St. Stephen’s
The cathedral, located on the eastern side of the city square (Pjaca) was built on the site of an early 6th century Christian church and later the Benedictine convent of St. Mary. While the church was decorated much less lavishly than I had expected, since it was decorated by Venetian artists, it did have some redeeming qualities. The side chapels were similar in style and much more ornate than the rest of the décor with heavy marble columns. The stone pulpit dates back to the 15th century and the crucifix, over the altar, is in the Gothic style, while the rest of the church is a blend of Renaissance, Manneristic and Baroque styles.
Cathedral of St. Stephen’s
Cathedral of St. Stephen’s
Cathedral of St. Stephen’s
As I stepped outside to photograph the exterior of one of the most important historical buildings in Hvar and inspect its 17th century bell tower, the priest and another gentleman were hard at work raising a very large canvas portrait of what I assumed was St. Stephen above doorway. Stepping away into the Pjaca, I admired the uniquely styled cathedral in the dwindling afternoon light.
Cathedral of St. Stephen’s
Meeting up with my husband, we proceeded to continue our afternoon sunset observations from the Riva before the dinner hour. The golden light was stunning as it set beyond the islands that we had visited on this day and once again, the yachts began to sail into the harbor, taking their places, sometimes five deep along the dock. With as many boats on this night, surely dinner was going to be a lively affair!
Watching the sunset.
Yachts “stacked” along the dock.
Dinnertime in Hvar.
Hvar, while the smaller of the three cities that we visited, was filled with charm and natural beauty. We were only there for two nights, however, it definitely left a mark on us, making me wonder how many other secret spots Croatia had up it sleeve! Tomorrow, however, we were heading back, the final leg of our journey to Dubrovnik, and we were looking forward to see all of the sites we had not had time for during our first few days!
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After enjoying our live music, we decided to leave the windows open to enjoy the fresh night air while we slept.
In the early hours of the morning, my husband was awakened by a sound. The way he described it was “otherworldly”, moving through the town and palace and causing the dogs to all begin barking and howling. It was as if something flew over and through the area.
I was awakened by the sound of him moving through the room and hastily shutting the windows and closing the curtains. As he realized that I was awake, visibly shaken he asked me if I had heard the sound. In a deep sleep, I had not, but I realized that he was most unnerved and wondered what exactly he had heard. Later, after thinking about the parts of the country that are remote and desolate and its history steeped in stories about vampires, giants and witches, I thought that maybe he had indeed experienced something out of this world.
A few hours later, my husband was up, packing his clothes and making a quick breakfast. As much as he had enjoyed the city of Split, he seemed determined to head down to the ferry as quickly as we could. He really was quite shaken!
After a quick walk, we determined which pier our ferry was departing from and grabbed a seat and waited for our boarding time.
Boarding commenced and we found a seat on the small ferry, readying ourselves for the hour and fifteen minute ride. Before we knew it, we had spotted the shoreline of Hvar and were disembarking on the main pier of Hvar Town.
Ferry from Split to Hvar.First glimpses of Hvar.
Since the check-in time for our Airbnb was much later in the afternoon, we decided to check our bags into a storage facility, grab some lunch and then check out some of the sights in the area. After a quick stop at the Tourist Information office, I had a map and a list of all the pertinent things in Hvar Town.
Hvar main square.
After walking around the town a bit, we decided to tackle Fortica Spajnola (the Spanish Fortress or City Fortress), the citadel that towers over the town on the adjacent mountaintop, we headed up the many steps leading up to the fortress’s path. A little tired and now, very hot, we plodded on knowing that the end result would be stunning views of the town below and gaining some insight into the town’s history.
Fortica Spajnola in the distance.
Twenty five minutes later and a little winded, we made it to the entrance and after paying our entrance fee, we began our explorations of this historic structure.
Fortica SpajnolaFortica Spajnola
The building of the City Fortress was started in 1278 during the era of the Venetian empire. In 1551, a new fortress was built to replace the original to offer protection to the population that had retreated to the island during the Turkish Invasion in 1571. An explosion caused much destruction in 1579 and modifications and repairs were made at the beginning of the 17th century by building the Baroque defensive bastions. Army barracks were completed in 1775 and 1776. Today, as the island remains safe from invaders, the fortress stands preserved above the town as a reminder of its turbulent past.
Fortica Spajnola
Fortica Spajnola
Fortica Spajnola
Fortica Spajnola
Fortica Spajnola
Making our way through the maze of passageways, we discovered not only a collection of amphora and other exhibits from antiquity and the Middle Ages, but atop, stunning panoramic views of Hvar Town and the surrounding Pakleni islands. Thankfully, by this time a cool ocean breeze had refreshed us enough to enjoy the setting and we sat at the café to enjoy a cold drink.
Fortica SpajnolaFortica SpajnolaFortica Spajnola
Checking the time, we made our way down towards town first stopping at the small ruined chapel of Kostel Panny Marie na Kruvenicic (Church of the Virgin Mary in Kruvenica). Although the door was locked, we were able to walk around the building and take some nice photographs. Continuing on, we made our way down the mountainside, back to the stairs of the city, casually inspecting alleyways, architecture and shops along our path.
Kostel Panny Marie na Kruvenicic (Church of the Virgin Mary in KruvenicaKostel Panny Marie na Kruvenicic (Church of the Virgin Mary in Kruvenica
Reclaiming our luggage, we headed towards the Loggia, the 13th century remains of the governor’s palace that now houses the five-star Palace Elisabeth Hotel. Taking a seat, we waited for instructions from our Airbnb host. Although the property was supposed to be ready for occupancy at 4:00 p.m., we began to get a bit nervous when there was no contact from our host. After continuously texting, we eventually received a message, that he was taking care of a few last minute things in the apartment…frustrating when check-out is 11:00 a.m. and things should have been ready for our arrival five hours later. Close to 5:00 p.m., we were met by our host, learning that he had much on his plate with his wife pregnant and due any day, and escorted to what would be our headquarters for until we would depart for Dubrovnik a couple of days later. A nice place, situated above the popular Lola Bar, we once again had VIP seating for the live music below later in the evening.
Loggia
Loggia
That evening, we headed out to the waterfront, drinks in hand, to watch the sunset and the mega yachts sail into the harbor and contemplate what our next day would bring.
Hvar RivaHvar RivaNighttime in Hvar
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Spanish Fortress (Fortica Spajnola)
Address: Ul. Biskupa Jurja Dubokovica 80, 21450, Hvar, Croatia
Hours: 0900-2000
Admission: Adults, 40 HRK, Children (7-16 years), 20 HRK, Children (under 7 years), free
Getting There: Walk from the main square to the north, passing the main city gate or Porta di Datalla (Gate of Dates) to ascend the stairs or take a taxi.
Kostel Panny Marie na Kruvenicic (Church of the Virgin Mary in Kruvenica)
Address: Ul. Higijeničkog Društva 9, 21450, Hvar, Croatia
Hours: 0900-2000
Admission: free
Getting There: Walk from the main square to the north, passing the main city gate or Porta di Datalla (Gate of Dates) to ascend the stairs or take a taxi.
With so much to see and do in Split, we knew that we had to be up with the birds and out the door early! What each of us wanted to experience, however, was a bit different, so we decided to do what we could together and then split up later in the day.
While Saint Domnius was right outside our window, it was still an hour or so from its opening so we decided to start our explorations along the waterfront and then loop back around into the main part of the city.
View outside our window of Saint Dominus’ Belfry
Being such an ancient city, there were many ruins that we encountered as we made our way to the Riva. Passing the Church of Bana Jelačića, we made our way around the harbor to the West Bank, admiring the boats along the way…some we could only wish to ever travel on! Set in the walkway along the water were bronze plaques commemorating Croatian athletes who had medaled in past Olympic games.
Ruins and sites along the wayCroatian Olympians WalkwayScenic Riva of SplitAlong the waterfront.
Reaching Sustipan Park, we decided that this would be our turning point and we headed back toward the city center along the cobblestone streets amidst the ancient stone buildings. There were interesting things to see along the way…cute cafes, wall art, sculpture, historic buildings, souvenir stands, museums. Passing through Fruit Square, we stopped for a moment to inspect the statue of Marko Marulic, the famous Croatian and Split author, designed by Ivan Meštrović.
Fruit Square
Eventually, we found ourselves at the Iron Gate (West Gate) of the Diocletian Palace. The four gates of the palace have been preserved and we had spotted the Silver Gate (East Gate) upon our arrival while attempting to find our Airbnb. The Iron Gate is an interesting piece of architecture with its bell tower (connected to the chapel of Our Lady of the Bell Tower) and unique clock with twenty-four digits instead of the usual twelve. This gate, originally a military gate from which troops entered the complex, is the only one that has remained in continuous use to this day. While a sculpture of Nike, the Roman goddess of Victory once stood on the horizontal beam, it was removed and later replaced with an engraved cross. Today, there is another sculpture to the right as you approach from the west.
Iron Gate
As I mentioned, we were staying within the Diocletian Palace, however, when I had opted to make Split a part of our travel plans, I had imagined that this palace was one to visit, much like Buckingham in London or Pena in Sintra. Not being the case, I learned that this ancient structure was built as a retirement residence for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD. Forming about half of the Old Town of Split, the term palace is a bit misleading as it resembles more of a large fortress with about half of it once marked for Diocletian’s personal use and the rest as a military garrison. Today, it is filled with shops, apartments and museums.
Winding our way through the palace’s many passages and courtyards, we found ourselves on the north side. Here was the Golden Gate (North Gate), which was originally the main gate from which Diocletian entered the complex and probably the gate the Emperor entered after his abdication from the imperial throne. The church of St. Martin can be found above the gate and is usually open to the public, but much to my dismay, on this particular day it was not.
North Gate and Benedictine Monastery remains.
Outside the gate, however, we found the remains of the Benedictine monastery of St. Euphemia. The small chapel that remains, sits alongside the palace walls in Giardin Park, as well as its 18th century bell tower. Dating back to 1069, this convent was dedicated to Saint Arnir, the Archbishop of Split who was stoned to death in 1180. The complex was destroyed by fire in 1888 and demolished in 1945 except for the tower and the small chapel. On the nearby steps leading to the palace is the colossal statue of Grgur Ninski. The bronze effigy symbolizes the Bishop of Nin (900-929) who was notorious for instructing the churches in his diocese to celebrate mass in the Croatian Glagolic language, instead of Latin, resulting in the loss of his stature.
Statue of Grgur Ninski
Entering the palace again, we headed toward the Silver Gate (East Gate), which was nearest to our apartment. While still standing strong, it is the least composed compared to the three others and was once incorporated into the Church of Dušica, destroyed during World War II. With many vendors adjacent to the entrance, we took a moment to grab a water and browse.
Silver Gate
Deciding that it was time to tackle Saint Dominus Cathedral, we headed in that direction, but first, stopping to inspect the Renaissance Church of Saint Roche, built in 1516 and which is now housing the Tourist Information office. Walking through the Peristyle, we entered the ticket office to purchase the tickets needed for the three parts of the Saint Dominus visit; the Cathedral, the Treasury and the Belfry.
Renaissance Church of Saint Roche
Peristyle
Since the Treasury was within the same building as the ticket office, we decided to start there, making our way through the four upper floors which house the church’s extensive artifact and art collection.
Treasury
Treasury
Treasury
Next, we headed across the Peristyle to the Church. Since no one was in line for the Belfry, we decided to make the climb first. While I admit, I was a bit winded from the many stairs to the top, the views from this perspective were unreal. The city spread out before us, with its orange hued roofs and the waters of the port lay to our south and mountains to our north. We could see the ferries readied for their island journeys in the harbor…our mode of transport for the next day.
Saint Dominus Belfry
Saint Dominus Belfry
Saint Dominus Belfry
The cathedral, originally built as Diocletian’s mausoleum was converted into a church by refugees from Salona in the 7th century. As we entered we admired the massive wooden doors, protected by glass, decorated with carvings that depict scenes from the life of Christ. Inside the church, the altar, dating back to the 15th century, holds court with its gilded ceiling and accoutrements and is flanked on the rear with the cathedral’s organ pipes. In the rear of the altar, is the choir decorated with dark paintings and wooden pews and above, the cathedral’s domed ceiling.
Saint Dominus CathedralSaint Dominus CathedralSaint Dominus Cathedral
As we exited the cathedral, we made our way to the Crypt of Saint Lucy, located beneath the church. A relatively simple area, it is constructed of stone walls and centered with a altar topped with a statue of the Blessed Virgin.
Crypt of Saint Lucy
Exiting the church, we entered, once again, the Peristyle, the popular meeting place that retains its use as it did in Roman times. There are beautiful carvings within the space, including the famous Sphinx. Impossible to miss, this 9 foot tall black granite statue sits on a ledge between the cathedral and the Peristyle, guarding the mausoleum. This impressive piece of art, the oldest artifact in the city, was brought to Split by Diocletian from Egypt as a war trophy after the Egyptian uprising was pacified by the Romans in 297-298 AD. Originating in the era of Pharaoh Tuthomosis the 3rd, it was one of twelve sphinxes that was commissioned by the Emperor.
SphinxArchitecture and sculpture in the Peristyle.
Finally, we walked over to the Baptistery, the Temple of Jupiter, located in a narrow passageway on the west side of the Peristyle. The classical temple, built in Roman times, has a richly decorated portal and a vaulted ceiling. It was converted into a baptistery during the Middle Ages and an 11th century baptismal font was placed within. This font, decorated with stone carvings portraying a Croatian ruler on his throne. There is also a statue of St. John the Baptist and the sarcophagi of the Bishops of Split. Built around the 3rd century, the temple, which was one of the last such temples of its kind constructed within the Roman world, was named after Diocletian’s father, Jupiter. On the outside of the temple is another of the sphinx’s that was brought by Diocletian.
Baptistery and Temple of Jupiter
Since we had has such a long day, my husband was ready to relax in our apartment for a while. Me? Not so much! So we decided to split up for a few hours and each enjoy what we wanted. I still had souvenirs to purchase and I wanted to visit Diocletian’s Cellars located in the front of the Palace near the Brass Gate, the main entry point from the Promenade to the Cathedral. Often referred to as the “basement halls”, these cellars were constructed to partly elevate the Emperor’s chambers as well as a storage area for food and wine of the palace. During the Middle Ages, it was used as a residential area and later, as a water storage facility. Today, it is a relatively empty space that can be appreciated for it architectural prowess, but you can also inspect the remnants of a large press used in the production of wine, a nymphaeum and a marble table from the Emperor’s dining room.
The end of our day brought us to a fantastic recommendation by our Airbnb host, Ines…Villa Spiza. The thirty minute wait at this local restaurant was extremely worth it for the delicious entrees it served up…my fave, smelt!
With a full stomach, we headed back to our apartment noting the live music being performed in the Peristyle. Once inside, we opened up our windows and a bottle of wine and enjoyed the nighttime sounds of the Split!
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Hours: June-September, 0800-2000, daily. October and May, 0700-noon and 1700-1900, daily. November-April, 0700-noon.
Admission: There are four types of tickets to choose from. Blue ticket (50 kn) includes 3 sites: The Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery. Green ticket (70 kn) includes 3 sites: The Cathedral, Bell tower, Treasury. Red ticket (60 kn) includes 4 sites: The Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery, Treasury. Purple ticket (80kn) includes all 5 sites: The Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery, Treasury, Bell tower.
Returning from Montenegro the night before, we met up with a couple of friends who were also on vacation, for dinner and drinks. They had arranged to do a boat tour of the nearby islands with a gentleman who had been taking many of my co-workers out for an afternoon in the sun.
When I had confirmed my Airbnb with Antonia, our host, she asked on what airline and what time we would be arriving. Giving her this information, I didn’t mention that I worked for the airline, but she volunteered that her husband had been taking out the crews on his boat. Amazingly, it was the same person who had taken out my friends! His name was Ivusa!
As we enjoyed cocktails, they raved about what an amazing experience it was. At that precise moment, deciding that we also needed this experience, I texted Antonia and asked her if Ivusa could take us out when we returned to Dubrovnik in six days.
The next morning, as we packed our car and readied for our departure to Bosnia and Split, Ivusa came out and introduced himself. A friendly guy, we discussed our travel plans and plans for our return the next weekend. Having heard of our rental car woes, Ivusa, probably worried that we would get off on the wrong foot, graciously offered to drive our car up the hill. Thank goodness!
Saying goodbye, we prepared ourselves for the long day ahead.
We had planned to make our way to Mostar and Medjugoria, Bosnia and then continue on to Split, where we would spend two nights in the Diocletian Palace. Checking the route, we determined that while the GPS routing was through the mountains, we felt like we should take a secondary route which hugged the coastline until we reached the town of Neum. Besides, it would be more scenic!
Starting our trip, we drove along, enjoying the stunning views. Finally, our GPS began directing us to take a turn. Following the commands, we drove towards Neum, but instead of the original routing, it had us follow another road. Not anything that seemed like a major highway, we hesitantly followed the directions. Next thing, we ended up on a dirt road, heading up a mountain. The road narrowed and as I studied the GPS map, I realized that if we continued on this passage, we were going to cross into Bosnia. Yes, that was the intent, but there was no way that there was going to be a border crossing on the side of a mountain and we risked crossing illegally. Not wanting to be wanted in another country, we decided that we should turn around…this was no small feat. The road we were on was extremely narrow and dropped off precariously on our left. Somehow…and to this day, I am not sure how…we got the car turned around and didn’t look back.
Our luck with this rental car had not been good so far and we had lost so much time following the GPS instructions, we decided that continuing on to Split would be best for us. Finally, making it back to the coastal road, we eventually crossed into Bosnia and then back into Croatia. I even jumped out of the car and stood for a moment, so that I could say that I had been in Bosnia!
Hercegovacko-Neretvanski, Bosnia
The drive to Split was extremely long and aside from a stop in Neretva, Croatia, to enjoy the lake views of the Valley of Life, we plodded along, praying to get there in one piece and return the car.
Neretva, Croatia, The Valley of LifeNeretva, Croatia, The Valley of Life
After an agonizing five hours of driving, we made it to the Split Airport. We can’t stress enough how relieved we were to hand over the keys to the car and have someone else do the driving for the rest of our trip!
Scenes along the way.
With a short Uber ride to the old part of town, we could finally breath a sigh of relief and relax for a moment. During the day, I had been in contact with the Airbnb owner and she was expecting our arrival.
As we were dropped off at the entrance to Diocletian Palace, I looked around and wasn’t sure where to head. Although I had marked the apartment’s location on my map, it was quite confusing as we made our way through Diocletian’s Palace. Finally, as we stood between Saint Domnius Cathedral and the Silver Gate, glancing frantically around, trying to figure out which way to turn, I heard my name. Thankfully, Ines had come to look for us and two people looking confused with suitcases was enough to convince her that she had the right people!
Walking thru the Peristyle, looking for our apartment.Where Ines found us!
Leading us into a nearby building, I noticed right away, the peeling paint and the newly built, but unfinished, stairway. It was only two nights, right?
But, when we reached the apartment on the topmost floor, I remembered why we had booked this particular unit. It was absolutely stunning and overlooked the Cathedral of Saint Domnius. After giving us a brief tour, Ines explained that because of the apartment’s location within the Diocletian Palace, a UNESCO Heritage Site, all renovations have to be approved by the government. While nothing can be done to the exteriors of the building and not much to the stairwells, more can be done to the interior, within their guidelines. Therefore, while almost everything within the apartment was new, the interior stone walls were original to the palace…dating back to the fourth century! When they say, “If Walls Could Talk!”
Peristyle Emperor Suite
View outside our window!
Finally on our own, we quickly unpacked and headed out to see what we could within the city in the waning afternoon. Saving the Cathedral for the next day when we had more time, we eventually ended up on the Riva, the bustling waterfront and boardwalk. Grabbing a couple of beers, we also grabbed a seat and enjoyed the close of our day with the setting sun.
The RivaSunset along the Riva.
Walking back through the palace, we enjoyed the live music being performed in the Peristyle and discovered that it could be heard perfectly from the opened windows of our apartment. And after dinner, this is what we did…enjoyed our VIP seating and the beautiful music on our first night in Split.
The Peristyle at night.Nighttime in Diocletian’s Palace.
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After months of planning and waiting, we had arrived in Croatia!
We had survived a long flight, processed through customs and immigration and found our way to the car rental agency.
Agent, “Yes, I have your reservation…an economy with manual transmission.”
Me (to the agent), “Yes…wait…what? Uh oh.”
Me (to my husband), “Oh honey, you do remember how to drive a stick, right?”
Luckily, we both know how to drive manual transmissions, but it had been many years since my husband had had any practice. In the end, we decided to keep the car, even after the agency offered up a larger, automatic (for more money, of course) because we were not sure of the parking lot size at our Airbnb. My husband would just have to take it easy…a difficult feat in a mountainous country!
Heading onto the coastal highway, we drove the twenty-two minutes towards the city, getting our first glimpses of Old Town Dubrovnik, sitting on the precipice of the city surrounded by the sparkling azure waters. It was absolutely breathtaking!
Our first view of Dubrovnik!
My Airbnb host, Antonia, had sent us detailed instructions on how to reach our rental when we reached the city. As my husband carefully shifted our Corsa Opal and followed my directions, we were awed by the walls of the Old City on our right. So awed…that we missed the road to our Airbnb! Back around we drove…and since most of the roads in this area were one-way, it was a long, long way around!
This time, I was ready. As we turned at the light, I spotted the road on the right that we were supposed to take. This road was quite narrow, with a wall on the left and parked cars next to a drop off on the right…and it angled sharply downward. As my husband shifted the transmission and gave it a little gas, I suddenly realized that we were passing the gates to our property. Stop!
He did, but since we were on a hill, with a wall to our left and cars parked to our right, it was difficult to put the car in reverse to backup…uphill…to turn into the yard. Oh brother! He made the decision to continue down the hill, so we could circle around again. Only…
The road narrowed. The wall on the left veered right and the car on the right was angled to the left. Wow, this was going to take some maneuvering to get past. Holding our breath, reaching out the windows and turning our rear-view mirrors inward and inching slowly forward, we made it past these two obstacles. And discovered…
We drove our car past this wall and this car…
The road narrowed to a path!
Yes…a path that only a motorcycle or a bicycle or a small child could proceed on. Getting out of the car, we looked for another option. There was no going forward…only back. This would require shifting the manual transmission and carefully passing between…while maintaining inches from…both the wall and the car and while giving the car enough gas to make it up the hill…backwards. I feel like I should insert the wide-eyed emoji here. We were at a loss and the only thing I thought that could get us out of this mess was to get a crane to pick up the car and drop in onto a nearby roadway…again…wide eyed emoji. Yeah…not really an option.
Sick to my stomach, I realized that we had just declined insurance coverage on our rental!
As people walked by, snickering…my husband suggested that we call the car rental company and tell them what happened, but I wasn’t ready to throw in the towel…yet. I ran up the hill to the gates of our Airbnb, let myself in and knocked on the door. I don’t know what I expected them to do, but maybe they had a solution. SURELY this had happened to someone before, right?
Greeted by Antonia’s mother, I told her what happened. She said she didn’t know how to drive, but said, “let’s go take a look”. Down the hill, she eyed our predicament and shook her head in disbelief. She said, “Let’s ask the firemen! They are my neighbors and they are nice. They will help! Tell your husband to go inside that building and tell them what happened.”
As my husband walked toward us, I really did not want to give him her suggestion. After all, the car wasn’t on fire. But, what the heck! We had nothing to lose.
So off he went, disappearing into the firehouse. Later, he told me that after explaining what had happened, the fire chief just shook his head (we definitely know that this had happened before) and nodded toward two muscular twenty-somethings to go out and help. Probably bored and excited to have something to do, they bounded out of the building, telling my husband, “please don’t videotape us” while laughing. Can’t say that that statement made me feel all that good…
One fireman jumped into the car and the other proceeded to direct. My stomach was in knots and I thought that I was going to throw up my lunch as they inched forward and backward, trying to get the car into the correct position to make it past the wall and the car. Backward…forward…backward…forward…one directing, one driving. And then…my stomach lurching…the driver stepped on the gas and shot past the wall and the car and straight up the hill…inches to spare. Watching them, it almost seemed so effortless it was as if they had been probably driving a stick-shift since they were twelve…maybe eleven!
I ran up the hill, pointing to the gate where he pulled the car into the yard.
OMG…did that just really happen?
I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry! Thanking them profusely, we followed Antonia’s mom into the yard, shutting the gate behind us, lest the car was left in park and rolled back onto that dreaded hill!
“I need a drink”, said my husband shakily.
Antonia’s mom disappeared into the house and reappeared quickly with an unmarked bottle of wine and three glasses. Directing us onto the patio, she poured us each a glass and offered up a toast to the firemen! Now, being a beer-kind-of-girl, I am not much into the taste of red wine…but, this red wine was something else! I really needed its medicinal properties for my shot nerves!
Three glasses later and learning a lot about Antonia’s mom (and that she got this wine from somewhere in the hills), she finally shooed us to our room and told us to get changed and go out and enjoy the city.
Dressed and refreshed, we headed down that same hill that started our vacation on the wrong foot…this time on foot. I had heard that lots of steps were involved with Old Town Dubrovnik and we soon learned that those stories were true. The entrance nearest to our Airbnb, Vrata od Buze, which was opened in the city walls in 1907 and named after Croatia’s finest 18th century scientist, physicist, astronomer and poet, Ruder Boskovic, was narrow and we walked down approximately 80,038 steps to get to the main esplanade, Stradun…actually, my legs were saying that it was more like 90,000! As we walked along the limestone-paved pedestrian street, we gazed around in wonder, amazed that we were actually in Dubrovnik!
Vrata od Buze entrance to Old Town
Different views of Stradun
At one end of Stradun was the landmark clocktower rebuilt since the 15th century and the baroque Church of Saint Blaise, built in 1715 (with a statue of Saint Blaise salvaged from a fire) and on the other end, the Pile Gate, the 15th century main entrance to Dubrovnik’s Old Town.
Dubrovnik Clocktower
We decided to take a walk around the city to familiarize ourselves with its layout starting with a glimpse of the Old Port and the many boats and ferries parked here. Passing the statue of Marin Drzic in front of the Rector’s Palace, we rubbed his nose for good luck. Marin Drzic was a famous writer, often dubbed Dubrovnik’s Shakespeare. From here, we continued on past the Cathedral of the Assumption and the Old Town Market, located in Gundulic Square, where I stared longingly at the giant figs that were being offered for sale. Next, we climbed the Jesuit stairs. Little did we know what a significant part this played in Game of Thrones as we stepped inside the Catholic Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola (Srkva sv. Ignacij), built in 1725, which is known for its Lourdes Grotto. Making our way near the outer walls, we circled back around to the Old Pile Gate.
Marin Drzic Statue
Jesuit StairsCatholic Church of St. Ignatius of LoyolaCatholic Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola
Catholic Church of St. Ignatius of LoyolaLourdes Grotto
Deciding that taking a walk around the top of the fortress walls would be the perfect thing to do since the sun wasn’t so high in the sky and it wasn’t as hot as it was earlier. Paying our admission, we climbed the steep stone stairs and began our journey around the city from a different perspective. With views of the Fort Lovrjenac and Tvrdava Bokar, Dubrovnik West Harbour, the Old Town and the beautiful sea, I would say that it was a great way to become acquainted with the city.
Onofrio’s Fountain
First views of the city from above
Finally, we had made our way all the way around the city’s walls and discovered that we were a bit thirsty. It was time to head to the Buza Bar on the southwest side of the Old Town. Grabbing a seat, we looked out over the azure waters and enjoyed a couple of beers, mesmerized by the cliff jumpers. Thinking that the waters must have felt refreshing in the heat of the day, we quickly changed our minds, hearing their shrieks when they hit the chilly waters of the Adriatic!
Entrance to and views from the Buza Bar
A little hungry, we took the advice of a friend and began seeking out a restaurant on the direct opposite side of Old Town. Lady Pi Pi. The name was a bit perplexing until we saw the fountain out front. I won’t describe it any more than to tell you to take a look at the picture. We were lucky to get one of the few tables in the establishment without a wait but, I would wait any day…it was some of the best seafood that we have ever had!
Lady Pi Pi Restaurant
Lady Pi Pi Restaurant
The best part, however, was that although we had to climb a billion stairs to get to Lady Pi Pi, we didn’t have to climb many more to get back to our Airbnb. After such a long day and the mental stresses that came with it, it was good not to have to walk very far to get home and to bed. A welcome berth for our weary bodies!
So far, we loved what we we had experienced. But…
Tomorrow was another day. So much more to see and experience!
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Admission: Adults, 200kn (approximately $29.00 US per person), Children and Young Adults (under 18), 50kn (approximately $7.25 US per person). Students (only with valid Croatia Student Card, International Student Card (ISIC) & European Youth Card): Approved Student Cards, 50kn (approximately $7.25 US per person). Dubrovnik-Neretva County citizens, free with ID directly at the entrance.
But not because I was a Game of Thrones fan…(that would come later!)
Having seen friends’ pictures and read many travel articles, it appeared to be beautiful, intriguing and full of history and it was exciting to hear that my airline was planning to fly that route starting in the summer.
Booking our flight for the end of September, I had three and a half months to plan, but fear suddenly gripped me! With ten days at our disposal, I wasn’t sure how to tackle the trip. We were going to fly into Dubrovnik, but what other cities could we fit into our itinerary? I stared at the map of Croatia, but really had no clue how far each city was from the other and how easy it was to get to and from.
After endlessly putting off the task of booking my hotels, I realized that in order to find a place fitting of our needs, I needed to figure it all out…and quick! Thankfully, my friend Kris had just returned and had posted about his trip on Facebook. Giving him a call, I quizzed him on his itinerary and rattled off a list of questions, trying to get the gist of what would work for my husband and I.
As we talked, I scribbled down some quick notes and I formulated a plan. But would it work?
Kris thought so.
The plan was as follows:
Day 1: Depart New York’s JFK International Airport
Day 2: Arrive Dubrovnik
Day 3: Drive to Kotor, Montenegro, explore and return to Dubrovnik
Day 4: Drive to Split, Croatia with a detour to Mostar, Bosnia
Day 5: Split, Croatia
Day 6: Depart Split, via ferry, for Hvar, Croatia
Day 7: Hvar, Croatia
Day 8: Depart Hvar, via ferry, for Dubrovnik
Day 9: Dubrovnik
Day 10: Depart Dubrovnik
With an itinerary in place, it was time to hit Airbnb and figure out where to stay. After a long day of perusing the site and countless emails and calls to my husband, that all finally fell into place, one city at a time. Why Airbnb? There are some really nice hotels in each city, however, I learned that some of the nicest places were on the Airbnb sites, especially within the walled city of Dubrovnik and Diocletian’s Palace in Split, where larger hotels are not located due to each’s confines. While it would have been nice to stay in Lapad (near Dubrovnik) and have views of the sea and a swimming pool, would we really have time to enjoy a refreshing swim? With so much to see and do, I seriously doubted it! Plus, every time we wanted to head to town, we would have had to catch the bus or call Uber.
Next came transportation. Cars? Buses? Ferries? Yes, No and Yes. I decided that we would rent a car upon arrival and drive to Split where we would drop it off at the airport. Using Uber to get to our Airbnb in Split, we would be on foot and then utilize the ferry to Hvar and then back to Dubrovnik.
Ok…were we ready?
I hoped so!
The only thing left was to figure out what attractions we wanted most to see in each city and then…
Wait until September!
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