While South Dakota is known for four specific Presidents, Washington, Lincoln, Roosevelt and Jefferson, carved into a mountainside, it had escaped my thorough attention to detail that Rapid City, being an extremely patriotic city, it is also known for its City of Presidents Sculpture Walk.
As I drove around the block, attempting to secure a parking spot near my hotel, I noticed many statues on each corner of Main and St. Joseph Streets. These life-size bronze statues are a tribute to our nation’s past presidents, a project which began in 2000 to honor the legacy of our leaders.
In 2000, President Abraham Lincoln was the first statue to be unveiled. Four statues a year were unveiled until 2010, when Presidents Arthur, Clinton and George W. Bush were completed.
Each of the forty-three sculptures is privately funded and placed in a pattern so as to maintain an orderly structure and eliminate any sense of favoritism or political gain. Although our 46th president is currently in office, you won’t see his likeness for a while as statues are unveiled every 4-8 years, depending on a president’s time in office and there are spots for eighty statues, so plenty of space to record our nation’s forthcoming history.
Numbers still not adding up? Grover Cleveland served twice as president, but wasn’t re-elected after his first term. He won the 1884 and 1892 elections, thus serving as the 22nd and 24th president and with the loss of the election by President Trump this past November, his statue should be in the works for an unveiling in the immediate future.
It is a lovely tribute and a great way to enjoy Rapid City’s downtown area.
Although I was headed to Mount Rushmore on my first day in town, I rose quite early on the next to take a closer look at these effigies. On this particular day, I made it through about half of the statues on St. Joseph Street, vowing to see the rest on the next.
I must admit, with the sun’s low angle due to the time of year, it was hard to get great photos of some of the statues, but at least they weren’t covered in snow…yet. That was reserved for the next day. Overnight, a light snowfall blanketed the city and the presidents! Although it was freezing…a glacial 15 degrees…I was determined to see all of the presidents that morning before leaving for the Badlands. I made a plan to walk down one side of Main Street, stopping on each corner, then crossing at Fourth Street to make it up the other side of Main. Each statue is a unique piece of artistry and represents something that the president was known for.
Gerald Ford, known for his affection for the family dog is depicted with his dog Liberty.
John F. Kennedy is shown holding hands with his son John Jr.
Calvin Coolidge is featured waving a Stetson hat next to a saddle; the original saddle was made for the President by Bud Duhamel of Rapid City.
John Tyler and his violin.
As I made my way back to St. Joseph Street, to see the statues I had missed the day before, I encountered some local Native American citizens who insisted I take their picture with President William Henry Harrison. They told me that they were contemplating adding a sign to the newspaper that Harry Truman was holding up, stating “Will Work For Food”! They thought it quite comical!
Intersection of Sixth and St. Joseph Streets, George Washington, Jimmy Carter, Ronald Reagan, Andrew JohnsonCorner of Fifth and St. Joseph Streets, Richard Nixon, George W. Bush, Dwight D. Eisenhower, James A. GarfieldCorner of Fourthand St. Joseph Streets, Barack Obama, Grover Cleveland, Rutherford B. HayesCorner of Sixth and Main Streets, George H. Bush, John AdamsCorner of Fifth and Main Streets, Herbert Hoover, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Chester Arthurand Calvin Coolidge (pictured above)Corner of Fourth and Main Streets, Ulysses S. Grant, William McKinley, James K. Polk, Benjamin HarrisonCorner of Seventh and Main Streets, Linden B. Johnson, John Quincy Adams, James MonroeCorner of Eighth and Main Streets, Andrew Jackson, Martin Van Buren, William Howard Taft and John F. Kennedy (pictured above)Corner of Ninth and Main Streets, James Buchanan, Abraham Lincoln, Teddy Roosevelt, Franklin PierceCorner of Ninth and St. Joseph Streets, Warren G. Harding, Zachary Taylor, Woodrow Wilson, Millard FilmoreCorner of Seventh and St. Joseph Streets, James Madison, Thomas Jefferson, William Jefferson ClintonandGerald Ford (pictured above)Corner of Eighth and St. Joseph Streets, Harry S. Truman, William Henry Harrisonand John Tyler (pictured above)
In addition to the President’s statues, you can find many famous statues throughout the city, two in particular that are located among the presidents in the downtown area with a Native American theme; Mitakauye Oyasin (All My Relatives) by Dale C. Lamphere and Hunkayapi (Tying on the Eagle Plume), by Dale C. Lamphere.
While in South Dakota, it is imperative that you make the trip out to see Mount Rushmore, but while in the Rapid City, don’t miss these amazing works of art and the downtown area which is a work of art in itself. Download the map of each of the presidential statue locations and visit the President’s Information Center for information, but challenge yourself to see how many you can recognize on your own!
Downtown Rapid City Signs
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One of the world’s richest geologic deposits lies east of Rapid City. Ancient animals once roamed the land and today a wide array of wildlife can be spotted throughout the area.
I will just put it out there…the Badlands wasn’t a national park that I had aspired to visit. Although I had heard of it, it wasn’t one that I was familiar with. But hearing others insist that I make the drive and spend the day there, was enough to make me take some time to research how best to see it in its entirety while in South Dakota.
It had snowed a bit the night before and I was shocked to see those speeding along the interstate, trying to maintain the 80 mph speed limit. Creeping along at a tortoise-like speed, I spotted quite a few vehicles being pulled from the ditches and I wondered if I was making this long drive on the wrong day.
After a quick stop to see the famous Wall Drug and pick up lunch, I headed to the entrance of the park, first making a pitstop at Prairie Homestead, the place to be if you want to learn about the pioneers and first homesteaders. Though it was closed for the season, it seemed like a great place to see one of the last remaining original sod homes intact today. Many pieces of farm equipment were on display, but the best part was the many little prairie dogs running around on the premises. These were quite different than the ones I saw near Devil’s Tower…they were white! After many photos and a walk around the premises, it was time to head toward the park’s gates.
Although it was quite cold out and there was a light dusting of snow on the ground, I learned another great reason for visiting during the off-season…no entrance fee! Though I later learned that entrance fees are collected year round, maybe this was the day that someone decided to call in sick and there was no one to man the booth. Nevertheless, it was my good fortune to not have to pay the thirty dollar entrance fee!
Driving along, I was filled with anticipation because I really had no knowledge of what I would experience. A little was gleaned from looking at a map of the park, but I was excited to see what it consisted of in person. Not long after my entrance, I encountered a parking lot at the Big Badlands Overlook area. Parking my car at the base of some high geologic formations, I exited my car and walked around, following a sign pointing in the direction of the Door Trail. I made my way onto the boardwalk marveling at the large, rocky spires rising up on each side of me. The end of the boardwalk offered spectacular views over the landscape and I noticed where you could venture off of the boardwalk and make your way onto the cracked earth, riddled with gulleys and small hoodoos. Reading the directions on the posted sign, I learned that it was recommended to bring water, even during the winter, and follow the yellow trail markers along the half mile hike. Although I was alone, I decided to follow in the footsteps of two other guys who had departed just before me. Sometimes it was a bit difficult to spy the next marker, but as I stood in this foreign landscape, I likened it to being on another planet. Making it to marker 5, I decided that I had reached my limit, especially when I spotted the Beware of Rattlesnakes sign!
Finding the path back to the boardwalk, I made my way towards my car, but not before crossing the road to check out the entrance to the Castle Trail, which leads to other parts of the park. Heading back onto the Badlands Loop Road, I marveled at the stunning views that I passed, pulling over at every overlook that I came across. For once, I was thankful that no one was with me to complain about the constant breaks in my progression through the park…I simply could not help myself! It reminded me of the last time I had driven through the Valley of Fire in Nevada when each new perspective outdid the last!
Just past the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, which was closed, I spotted the Cedar Lodge, also locked down for the season. At Cedar Pass, I parked in the adjacent lot, followed the path to the boardwalk and leisurely made my way along its duration, all the while admiring the mountains that towered over me.
Back on the road, I delighted in the lack of traffic and the beauty of the day. Bright blue, almost cloudless skies hovered above me and when I came across the parking area at Saddle Pass Trail, which leads to Castle Trail, I decided it was time to take another walk and see nature’s artistry up close.
Continuing on, I drove through Norbeck Pass which is the transition zone between the upper and lower prairie environments separated by the famed Badlands Wall. It was truly amazing to almost have the park to myself. I could only imagine the amount of traffic that usually courses through the park during its peak season between Memorial Day and Labor Day. At first, I would pull over to admire the overlooks, however, when I realized that no one was ever behind me, I basically stopped in the road to take one of the thousands of pictures that I took that day.
The Fossil Exhibit Trail was next on the itinerary and I followed the boardwalk, reading the signage interspersed along its length. I gradually learned about the multitude of fossils discovered here and the animals that once called this area home.
Across the road was the opposite end of the Castle Trail that I had investigated earlier. I took a short walk along its length to check out an unusual geologic formation that I spotted from the distance.
A quick stop was made at the White River Valley Overlook and taking a look at my map, I realized that if I wanted to make the drive throughout the entire park, I would have to step it up. Finally around Burns Basin Overlook, I spotted horns sticking up from the grassy area along the road. Further up the road, I spotted Big Horn sheep grazing along the rocky shoulder making me realize that I had never seen Bison.
Thankfully, I had cell service and did a quick search on the best places to see bison in the park. I was directed to the western side of the park near Roberts Prairie Dog Town. So, I hadn’t missed them after all!
The beautiful Yellow Mound Overlook with its multicolored geology caused me to pull over once again. Yellow, purple, gray and striped reddish hills make for one of the most spectacular and colorful views in the entire park. Could this be the inspiration for the line in the song “America the Beautiful”? O beautiful for spacious skies, For amber waves of grain, For purple mountain majesties, Above the fruited plain!
I scouted more overlooks…the Ancient Hunters Overlook, the Pinnacles Overlook… and then, just past the Hay Butte Overlook, I finally saw my first bison. A group was situated in the grassy area on my right, a couple of adults and a calf. Pulling my car over to the shoulder of Sage Creek Rim Road, I grabbed my camera and walked to the rear of my car. Dark, beady eyes watched me carefully, making sure that I was no threat to its child. I didn’t dare go any closer, but when one of the adults got to its feet and turned its head towards me, I knew it was my cue to leave. How on earth would I explain to my car rental company how a bison dented my car?
A little further up on the road, I spotted a dark figure on the edge of a precipice. How nice of them to place a bison statue on the edge of the cliff! Yet as I drove closer, I realized what I was seeing was not a statue but a real live bison, standing still, alone, watching over its domain. I shot it as best I could with my camera, but if I could have been closer or had a better telephoto lens, this would have been the money shot!
Continuing on, I found this lone creature’s herd. An extremely large group of bison spread across the road and in the fields on either side. While extremely moving to be in such close proximity, it was also a bit disconcerting. Again, I worried that they might become excited and stampede. Under their watchful gaze, I drove slowly through the group until I reach Prairie Dog Town.
Much like the Prairie Dog Town I had observed near Devil’s Tower, I watched fascinated as they ran to and fro, freezing now and then to judge my presence and then duck down into their burrow. These rodents, whose name dates back to the 1700s, derive their moniker from their warning call that sounds much like a dog’s bark. Indeed, I must have been perceived as a threat, as I heard their communications from quite some distance.
Finally, as the sun was dipping down lower, I decided that it was time to call it a day. Knowing that I didn’t want to encounter bison on the roads after dark, I headed for the Pinnacles Entrance and on to Wall, where I merged on to the interstate.
For having no prior knowledge of this spectacular national park, I was so thrilled that I learned about it from a nice hunter in the airport gatehouse. It was possible that I would have learned about it simply from scouring a map or reading one of the brochures in my hotel lobby, but it could have been possible that I might have deemed another close attraction, like Bear Land, more enticing. Thankfully, I have learned to accept advice from other travelers!
So how would I rate my experience? Travel to the Badlands on icy roads during the winter months, but having the park to myself? I’d say it wasn’t so bad!
I would do it again in a heartbeat!
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An infinite number of billboards line the highway for miles between Rapid City and the tiny town of Wall (population 766).
Come to Wall Drug.
See Original Western Paintings at Wall Drug.
Don’t Miss Out. Wall Drug.
Wall Drug or Bust.
Wall Drug. The Experience. Priceless.
Only 5 cents. Hot Coffee. Wall Drug.
Free Ice Water. Wall Drug.
I was heading to the Badlands National Park, but I was intrigued and next thing I knew, I was taking exit 110 off of Interstate 90 and navigating to Wall Drug.
What was this amazing place that you could see dinosaurs, western oil paintings and get coffee for five cents?
First and foremost, Wall Drug is a drug store. It’s also a roadside attraction…a tourist stop…a restaurant…an art gallery…a shopping mall. Each store operates under the Wall Drug brand and attracts two million visitors annually who come to eat, purchase souvenirs, take pictures and see what the fuss is all about.
In 1931, Dorothy and Ted Hustead purchased the only drug store in Wall, South Dakota on the edge of the Badlands National Park. Though the store initially did not attract the attention it gets now, they both knew that Mount Rushmore would be finished in the near future and hoped that it would bring more visitors to the area.
Five years later, when business still had not picked up and cars continually passed them by, Dorothy, unable to sleep during the summer heat, came up with the idea to offer free water to travelers. Ted modeled 12 by 36 signs using Dorothy’s phrases, “Get a soda . . . Get a root beer . . . turn next corner . . . Just as near . . . To Highway 16 & 14. . . Free Ice Water. . . Wall Drug.” He spaced them out along the highway so that people could read them as they drove by.
Dorothy was right. People driving across that hot, dry prairie were very thirsty. They saw the signs and they stopped at Wall Drug, not only for ice water. And they never stopped stopping in.
Over the years, their drug store grew as did their promotions. Five cent coffee was added for those cold winter days and when the United States Air Force operated the Minuteman missile silos east of Wall, the Husteads offered free coffee and donuts to the service personnel as they traveled to and from Ellsworth Air Force Base.
As I pulled into the parking lot, I looked at the quaint buildings that lined each side of the street and was sorry that I didn’t have more time to spend in each…and sorry that I didn’t have a trusty steed to secure to one of the horsehead hitching posts.
Heading into the massive complex of stores that was Wall Drug, I was amazed at its interior. Quirky cowboy-themed statues lined its halls, mounted deer heads perched above my head and even a Zoltar fortune teller was available for everyone’s amusement. Native American tributes were abound, antique pieces scattered to and fro and there was even a Traveler’s Chapel should the need arise to offer up a prayer or two.
It was a great deal of fun wandering from store to store checking out all of the souvenirs and art pieces. I didn’t end up with lunch, which I had planned, but I did find a cute Christmas ornament which paid tribute to Wall Drug’s 5 cent coffee.
Though it was not originally in my plan for the day, I am glad that all of that advertising lured me in. A major part of South Dakota history, it was fun to see Dorothy’s plan in action and what the Husteads created in this small town.
Go get your free water!
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São Paulo’s Batman Alley has been my highlight with stairwells, walls, doorways and sidewalks filled with stunning murals and artwork. While I have seen some great graffiti over the years, I have never experienced anything like Batman Alley in all of the cities I have visited.
Until I set foot in Rapid City.
As I stepped outside of my hotel in the fifteen degree morning, my only focus was the drive ahead of me to the Badlands on snowy roads. Walking toward my car, hoping there was an ice scraper, I looked immediately to my left and noticed a bit of graffiti…and a sign.
Art Alley.
The first inhabitants of South Dakota left their marks in the form of petroglyphs. Today, artists leave their stories in the form of murals in Art Alley.
In the early 2000s, artists began to use the alley as their canvas. Since then, the area has flourished and has become a social movement and a place to spread messages. The Rapid City Arts Council is in charge of the space and permits must be obtained from them or from the building owner. Though not all buildings are available for painting, there is enough surface area between 6th and 7th Streets to provide tons of space for artists’ expressions and a place for tourists to see what the art scene in Rapid City is all about.
Situated next to the Hilton Hotel Alex Johnson and countless restaurants and shops, it’s easy to see while experiencing all that downtown Rapid City has to offer.
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In 1876, outlaws, gamblers and gunslingers like Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane arrived in Deadwood in search of gold and a wild time in the wild, wild west! Coming across a gulch full of dead trees and an abundance of gold, it is where they made their life and where they subsequently met their death.
Today, Deadwood is a place where visitors still flock to make their fortune in the casinos, but also to experience the countless activities and attractions that can be found in this small city.
Deadwood was not on my radar when I arrived in South Dakota. In fact, the only time I had ever really heard the name was as the title of an HBO American Western television series that aired from 2004-2006. When seeking ideas from others on things to do, the usual attractions came up, but so did Deadwood. Doing a quick search, I discovered many exciting things but I knew I would have to be selective as my time would be limited.
Parking at the Visitor’s Center, I ventured inside hoping to get some maps and brochures. Instead, I received some wonderful information from the lady who worked there. The most valuable being that Mount Moriah Cemetery was still open.
Having just driven there a few minutes earlier, I had found the gates closed and assumed that it, along with many other attractions, was closed for the season. Discovering that I could park and enter the side path next to the closed gates, I headed back in that direction.
This final resting place of western legends, murderers, madams and pillars of Deadwood’s early economic development is built on a hill overlooking the city. Walking along the paved paths in the late afternoon light, I quickly found the gravesites of Wild Bill and Calamity Jane. The cemetery is laid out in terraces, on multiple hillsides and is fairly easy to navigate. The most heartbreaking section, however, is toward the rear where there are many small headstones of children who died of the smallpox, scarlet fever and diphtheria epidemics from 1878 to 1880.
Also at the rear of the graveyard is a beautiful bird’s eye view of Deadwood Gulch. The American flag that flies at this point is never lowered to honor all veterans who have served our country. Another section near this area is Potter’s Field where there are many unclaimed and unknown dead. Keep an eye out amongst the trees for the numerous deer that like to hang out in the cemetery.
A visit to the cemetery should take about forty-five minutes to an hour. During the high season when the Mount Moriah Cemetery Visitor Center is open, there is a fifteen minute video and information about the cemetery history, native and introduced plant species, cemetery symbolism and death statistics within Deadwood from 1875 to 1900.
Driving back towards town, I knew that it was nearing the closing hour for many of the museums and shops. I decided to secure parking at the Visitor’s Center and take a walk through the picturesque downtown, a National Historic Landmark.
Starting at the southwest part of Main Street, I made my way northward, meandering past numerous shops, hotels, casinos, restaurants and bars all residing in well preserved Gold Rush-era architecture. My favorite discoveries were the amazing chainsaw art at Dahl’s and in front of the Four Aces Casino where I found the city’s statue of Wild Bill Hickok. After hanging out with Will Bill for a few moments, I wandered back up Main Street, enjoying the ambiance of the twilight and the awakening of the Deadwood night.
The idea of staying into the evening and finding a nice place to enjoy dinner and drinks was extremely appealing, however, with almost an hour’s drive ahead of me, I decided to head home and see what cool nightlife I could find in Rapid City’s downtown.
If you are visiting South Dakota, a trip to Deadwood should warrant more than an afternoon, since there is so much to experience. The Deadwood Brothel, The Broken Boot Gold Mine, The Days of ’76 Museum, Mount Moriah Cemetery, a little bit of gambling and much more…I was short of time, but you shouldn’t be!
My mild time could be your wild time! Make it happen!
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About a year and a half ago, my husband and I visited the Center of the World monument while vacationing in Quito, Ecuador. When I heard about the monument for the Geographic Center of the Nation in Belle Fourche, South Dakota, I decided that I needed to plan my travel route around this attraction.
Located in western South Dakota, the monument is accessible year round, but being that I visited on Veteran’s Day, I was disappointed to find that the Visitor’s Center and Tri-State Museum closed.
What was more disappointing, however, was that I learned that this was not actually the geographic center. Kind of like in Ecuador, where a mistake in measurements resulted in the monument not being located on the exact location, the actual center is located on private property. The National Geodetic Survey chose Belle Fourche, the town closest to the actual site and the monument was placed there.
While I learned that I could drive twenty miles north to the actual center’s location (latitude 44 58 02.07622N and longitude 103 46.60283W), marked by a red, white and blue hand lettered sign and a United States flag in a private field, I just didn’t have the time.
Walking behind the Visitor’s Center and Tri-State Museum, I found the 21-foot monument, near the Redwater River, made of etched South Dakota granite and a twelve inch bronze marker from the National Geodetic Survey.
What is interesting to consider, however, is that before the addition of Alaska and Hawaii in 1959, Lebanon, Kansas was the geographic center of the nation. With the inclusion of these two states, a new center had to be determined. Keep in mind, Rugby, North Dakota has the distinction of being the geographic center of North America.
Also on the property is the Buckskin Johnny Cabin, built in 1876, which was constructed by John T. Spaulding with logs felled in the Black Hills. It was donated to the Belle Fourche Lions Club, moved to the city and restored as a historical monument to the early days of the frontiersmen. You can also find a Korean War Memorial, a Vietnam War Memorial, antique farm equipment, military equipment and a trail extending near the river.
While my stopover was short and sweet, it was a good diversion, regardless of the fact that I was led here in error.
Sometimes you win some and you lose some. All in a days adventures!
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Imagining sites that I wanted to experience in South Dakota, it was a given what might top the list (hint…four president’s).
Honestly, I have to admit that I didn’t know much more about other attractions within the state. It was a dream of mine to see those four presidential heads lined up on a rockface in the Black Hills, but anything else I encountered was lagniappe. Those I had spoken to insisted that I not to miss the Crazy Horse memorial, but aside from thinking it was a statue, I didn’t know very much about it or its history.
Upon my departure from Mount Rushmore, I followed my GPS in the direction of Crazy Horse’s address, admiring the stunning natural beauty along the way. A short, 16 miles later, I was pulling onto the premises.
Now, where was this statue?
Was I in for a surprise! Heading inside the welcome center and museum, I learned something, that many of you might laugh at, because I didn’t already know.
Crazy Horse wasn’t merely a statue, but in fact, a massive sculpture being carved from a nearby mountain. Under construction since 1948, the mountain monument, much like Mount Rushmore, will depict Oglala Lakota warrior, Crazy Horse, riding a horse and pointing to his tribal land.
Looking out to Thunderhead Mountain from the viewing deck, I was a bit baffled. I could see that the top part of the mountain was resembling a man looking to the west, but that was about it.
Watching the film offering, I learned that the memorial was being constructed on sacred Lakota land and was commissioned by Henry Standing Bear, a Oglala Lakota chief. Sculpturer Korczak Ziolkowski, a friend of Henry Standing Bear, was chosen to carry out the Lakota’s monumental plans and he and his descendants have worked tirelessly over the years to see it to the finish.
But who was Crazy Horse?
A war leader of the Oglala Lakota, Crazy Horse took on the fight against the United States federal government to stop the encroachments on the territories and way of life of the Lakota people. After surrendering in May 1877, he was fatally wounded while imprisoned at Camp Robinson, Nebraska.
In the 1940s, the world saw the completion of Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills. Henry Standing Bear had learned that a monument to his cousin, Crazy Horse, was being planned for construction in Fort Robinson, Nebraska. Standing Bear, persuaded James Cook, spearheader of the project, to abandon plans so that a monument of spiritual significance to the Lakota people could be constructed on Lakota land and one which would honor his relative.
After acquiescing to Henry Standing Bear’s persuasion to undertake the massive project, Ziolkowski, formulated a plan to create a monument that captured Crazy Horse’s likeness, which depicts the Native American riding his horse, left hand gesturing forward, showing the lands of his ancestors. Today, you can see the completed face and a long smooth piece of granite stretching out before him. There is some etching on the rock walls resembling a horse, however, it was quite difficult to envision what is to come.
I did not have to go far to find the answer. Near where I was standing on the deck, there was a sculpture’s model. As I studied this representation, it was much easier to comprehend the plan. The large scale sculpture on the mountain is planned to be 641 feet long and 563 feet high. The arm of Crazy Horse will be 263 feet long and the head 87 feet high. An impressive feat, it will be the second largest statue in the world behind the Statue of Unity in India.
What still confounded me, however, was that it only took fourteen years to complete Mount Rushmore. After seventy-three years, there was still a great deal to complete here. As I took the shuttle bus tour to the base of the mountain, I learned that no federal money has been accepted from the government. All construction is operated by the Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, a nonprofit organization, and paid for with funds earned from the Welcome Center and museum and from private donations. The current plan is that in ten years, the arm of Crazy Horse will be complete.
Thinking ahead, I sadly realized that the culmination of this stunning monument will probably not be in my lifetime.
Returning to the Welcome Center, I made my way through its entirety, enjoying each of the museums offered under its roof.
The Indian Museum of North America, created by Korczak Ziolkowski and his wife, Ruth, was constructed to feature American Indian art and artifacts from tribal Nations across North American. The museum itself is an architectural delight, large and airy and built from ponderosa pine, harvested and milled at the Crazy Horse memorial site. Its interior is filled with carvings, paintings, clothing items, canoes, tools, artwork and teepees.
The Mountain Carving Gallery is a tribute to the story of the mountain. Here you can see tools that Korczak used when he began the project, including a half size replica of a wooden basked used with an aerial cable car run by an antique Chevy engine that enabled him to haul equipment and tools up the mountain. It is here that you can also learn more about the phases of carving each of the components of the sculpture. Take heed of the cart in the far corner. Small chunks of granite, gathered and removed from the mountain after blasting, are available for visitors for a small donation. An amazing piece of history that can be passed on to your children and grandchildren!
Another museum, depicts Korczak’s home and studio. After living in a tent for his first seven months, he constructed a log cabin and studio home, so well-built that it still remains part of the Visitor’s Center. His home was filled with antiques and original works of sculpture and these are on display today, including a Marie Antoinette mirror, Louis XVI chairs and carvings of those he admired.
A variety of items are on display in Korczak’s workshop, including wood, bronze, marble and casts. Of particular interest is his wooden toolbox made when he was 18 years old and a full-sized, original Concord Stagecoach, restored by him and his family.
Though the Native American Educational and Cultural Center was not open, I was able to take a peek inside through its glass doors. Hands-on activities and instructions in American Indian history and culture are provided here and it serves as an outlet for artists to sell their work during the busier months of the year. A collection of Edward Curtis photogravure prints of the American West and the Native American peoples are displayed on the lower level as well as an Exhibit of the American Bison, detailing its story from its prehistoric origins in North America to its near extinction.
If taking home a distinctive reminder of your visit is important, do not forget the treasure-filled gift shop with skillfully crafted mementos lining its walls and filling its showcases.
Thankfully, I had arrived with enough time to see all of the museums and the entire premises. Having expected “just a statue” I discovered so much more and walked away with a much greater appreciation for what has been and is being accomplished. Though I will probably never get to see Crazy Horse’s completion before I move on, eventually, through the tireless efforts of the Ziolkowski family, one day, it will stand tall and proud, high above Lakota land…a symbol of courage and heritage.
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Address: 2151 Avenue of the Chiefs, Crazy Horse, South Dakota 57730
Hours: Welcome Center and The Museums of the Memorial, January 4-March 16, 0900-1700, daily. March 17-May 11, 0800-1900. May 12-May 27, 0800-2000. May 28-September 6, 0800- 30 minutes after laser light show. September 7-October 3, 0800-2000. October 4-October 11. 0800-1800.
Hours: Bus to Base – A closer look of the Mountain from the base, January 4-March 16, 1000-1600. March 17-May 11, 0900-1800. May 12-May 27, 0900-1900. May 28-September 6, 8:30 am – the last boarding 1.5 hours before the Laser Light Show begins. September 7-October 3, 0900-1900. October 4-October 11. 0900-1700.
Admission: January 1-May 27, $30.00, 3 or more people in a vehicle. $24.00, 2 people in a vehicle. $12.00, 1 person in a vehicle. $7.00, per person on a motorcycle, bicycle or walking. May 28-October 11, $35.00, 3 or more people in a vehicle. $30.00, 2 people in a vehicle. $15.00, 1 person in a vehicle. $10.00, per person on a motorcycle, bicycle or walking. No parking fees.
The length of my bucket list sometimes keeps me up at night.
How will I ever complete everything?
Since many things will have to remain unchecked at least for now, due to Covid19, I am trying to enjoy some of the things that are close at hand. Maybe some things, by necessity, have suddenly appeared on my list, but some of them have always been there!
When I say close at hand, it is understandable that not being able to travel outside the country has forced us to take a closer look at the amazing places that are within our boundaries. Since I can’t go gorilla trekking in Uganda right now, I can certainly travel within the United States and mark off a few things, like Mount Rushmore.
Unbelievably, I don’t ever remember having been to South Dakota. Maybe I spent a short night while on one of my trips for work, but not enough time to see anything that this beautiful state has to offer.
Pondering my bucket list situation one night, I packed a bag and decided that I would leave for Mount Rushmore in the morning. It was now…or now (I didn’t want to say never)…and I really needed to get out of the house!
As luck would have it, it was a good travel day and I made all three of my flights, arriving in Rapid City around eleven. My rental car took me to my downtown hotel, where I dropped my bags and quickly freshened up. With sunset so early in the winter day, I knew that it was imperative to make the most of the daylight. Thankfully, Mount Rushmore is only a short drive from the downtown area and I made the trip in a quick twenty-five minutes.
As I navigated the winding road, aware that I was getting close, I looked up ahead at a passing truck and there it was! I had not been prepared to see this amazing landmark from the highway and I had to slow my speed and pull over to take a better look. It was mesmerizing!
While most people opt to visit Mount Rushmore during the warmer summer months, I realized as I pulled into a mostly empty parking garage that visiting during the winter has its advantages.
And disadvantages.
Improvements to the property certainly cannot be done during the busy times of the year, so as I made my way down the Avenue of the Flags, which display flags of all fifty states, the District of Columbia and the three territories, Guam, American Samoa and Virgin Islands, I had to maneuver around construction equipment, detours and closed off areas. As I arrived on the Grand View Terrace, I finally laid my eyes on the colossal sculpture, sans the massive crowds that flock here during the summer…another advantage of my November visit.
Looking down at the unoccupied amphitheater seating, it dawned on me how many people I could actually be sharing this space with. Yes, it was cold, but there was no one to my left and no one to my right…perfect for social distancing.
As luck would have it, the weather, which could be volatile at this time of year was cooperating. Although a few clouds dipped low, occasionally obscuring the upper portions of the the carvings, blue skies prevailed and we were all treated with beautiful views.
After feasting my eyes, I headed inside the Visitor’s Center to warm up and learn about the famous carvings’ history, much of which I did not know.
Mount Rushmore was the brainchild of Gutzon Borglum. With an idea of carving the four Presidents, Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln, from the waist up, construction began in 1927 and took fourteen years to complete. When funding ran out, only the heads were completed. The Presidents represent the nation’s birth, development, growth and preservation. There are many exhibits in the Visitor’s Center explaining their construction as well as a short film.
Although I saw the entrance to the Presidential Trail, which gives hikers a closer look, I was not quite sure of how much time it would entail. With my plans including continuing on to the Crazy Horse Memorial, a short drive away, I decided to skip this portion of the grounds.
Jumping back into my now freezing car, I cranked up the heat and headed out to Highway 244. Not long into my journey, I learned that I wasn’t quite done with my visit to Mount Rushmore. From the roadway, behind the park, there is a great view of the profile of George Washington’s 60 foot head, 20 foot nose and 18 foot wide mouth. Pull over to the side of the road or in the adjacent parking lot and keep an eye out for the many mountain goats that hang out in the area.
This was the icing on the cake!
Twenty four hours earlier, I had not planned to be here and now I was gazing up at the profile of our nation’s first president.
With my head held high, I gave myself a personal pat on the back for making this happen. I then placed a mental check on my bucket list while looking up at this important piece of our nation’s history.
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