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Imagining sites that I wanted to experience in South Dakota, it was a given what might top the list (hint…four president’s).
Honestly, I have to admit that I didn’t know much more about other attractions within the state. It was a dream of mine to see those four presidential heads lined up on a rockface in the Black Hills, but anything else I encountered was lagniappe. Those I had spoken to insisted that I not to miss the Crazy Horse memorial, but aside from thinking it was a statue, I didn’t know very much about it or its history.
Upon my departure from Mount Rushmore, I followed my GPS in the direction of Crazy Horse’s address, admiring the stunning natural beauty along the way. A short, 16 miles later, I was pulling onto the premises.
Now, where was this statue?
Was I in for a surprise! Heading inside the welcome center and museum, I learned something, that many of you might laugh at, because I didn’t already know.
Crazy Horse wasn’t merely a statue, but in fact, a massive sculpture being carved from a nearby mountain. Under construction since 1948, the mountain monument, much like Mount Rushmore, will depict Oglala Lakota warrior, Crazy Horse, riding a horse and pointing to his tribal land.
Looking out to Thunderhead Mountain from the viewing deck, I was a bit baffled. I could see that the top part of the mountain was resembling a man looking to the west, but that was about it.
Watching the film offering, I learned that the memorial was being constructed on sacred Lakota land and was commissioned by Henry Standing Bear, a Oglala Lakota chief. Sculpturer Korczak Ziolkowski, a friend of Henry Standing Bear, was chosen to carry out the Lakota’s monumental plans and he and his descendants have worked tirelessly over the years to see it to the finish.
But who was Crazy Horse?
A war leader of the Oglala Lakota, Crazy Horse took on the fight against the United States federal government to stop the encroachments on the territories and way of life of the Lakota people. After surrendering in May 1877, he was fatally wounded while imprisoned at Camp Robinson, Nebraska.
In the 1940s, the world saw the completion of Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills. Henry Standing Bear had learned that a monument to his cousin, Crazy Horse, was being planned for construction in Fort Robinson, Nebraska. Standing Bear, persuaded James Cook, spearheader of the project, to abandon plans so that a monument of spiritual significance to the Lakota people could be constructed on Lakota land and one which would honor his relative.
After acquiescing to Henry Standing Bear’s persuasion to undertake the massive project, Ziolkowski, formulated a plan to create a monument that captured Crazy Horse’s likeness, which depicts the Native American riding his horse, left hand gesturing forward, showing the lands of his ancestors. Today, you can see the completed face and a long smooth piece of granite stretching out before him. There is some etching on the rock walls resembling a horse, however, it was quite difficult to envision what is to come.
I did not have to go far to find the answer. Near where I was standing on the deck, there was a sculpture’s model. As I studied this representation, it was much easier to comprehend the plan. The large scale sculpture on the mountain is planned to be 641 feet long and 563 feet high. The arm of Crazy Horse will be 263 feet long and the head 87 feet high. An impressive feat, it will be the second largest statue in the world behind the Statue of Unity in India.
What still confounded me, however, was that it only took fourteen years to complete Mount Rushmore. After seventy-three years, there was still a great deal to complete here. As I took the shuttle bus tour to the base of the mountain, I learned that no federal money has been accepted from the government. All construction is operated by the Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, a nonprofit organization, and paid for with funds earned from the Welcome Center and museum and from private donations. The current plan is that in ten years, the arm of Crazy Horse will be complete.
Thinking ahead, I sadly realized that the culmination of this stunning monument will probably not be in my lifetime.
Returning to the Welcome Center, I made my way through its entirety, enjoying each of the museums offered under its roof.
The Indian Museum of North America, created by Korczak Ziolkowski and his wife, Ruth, was constructed to feature American Indian art and artifacts from tribal Nations across North American. The museum itself is an architectural delight, large and airy and built from ponderosa pine, harvested and milled at the Crazy Horse memorial site. Its interior is filled with carvings, paintings, clothing items, canoes, tools, artwork and teepees.
The Mountain Carving Gallery is a tribute to the story of the mountain. Here you can see tools that Korczak used when he began the project, including a half size replica of a wooden basked used with an aerial cable car run by an antique Chevy engine that enabled him to haul equipment and tools up the mountain. It is here that you can also learn more about the phases of carving each of the components of the sculpture. Take heed of the cart in the far corner. Small chunks of granite, gathered and removed from the mountain after blasting, are available for visitors for a small donation. An amazing piece of history that can be passed on to your children and grandchildren!
Another museum, depicts Korczak’s home and studio. After living in a tent for his first seven months, he constructed a log cabin and studio home, so well-built that it still remains part of the Visitor’s Center. His home was filled with antiques and original works of sculpture and these are on display today, including a Marie Antoinette mirror, Louis XVI chairs and carvings of those he admired.
A variety of items are on display in Korczak’s workshop, including wood, bronze, marble and casts. Of particular interest is his wooden toolbox made when he was 18 years old and a full-sized, original Concord Stagecoach, restored by him and his family.
Though the Native American Educational and Cultural Center was not open, I was able to take a peek inside through its glass doors. Hands-on activities and instructions in American Indian history and culture are provided here and it serves as an outlet for artists to sell their work during the busier months of the year. A collection of Edward Curtis photogravure prints of the American West and the Native American peoples are displayed on the lower level as well as an Exhibit of the American Bison, detailing its story from its prehistoric origins in North America to its near extinction.
If taking home a distinctive reminder of your visit is important, do not forget the treasure-filled gift shop with skillfully crafted mementos lining its walls and filling its showcases.
Thankfully, I had arrived with enough time to see all of the museums and the entire premises. Having expected “just a statue” I discovered so much more and walked away with a much greater appreciation for what has been and is being accomplished. Though I will probably never get to see Crazy Horse’s completion before I move on, eventually, through the tireless efforts of the Ziolkowski family, one day, it will stand tall and proud, high above Lakota land…a symbol of courage and heritage.
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Crazy Horse Memorial
- https://crazyhorsememorial.org/
- Address: 2151 Avenue of the Chiefs, Crazy Horse, South Dakota 57730
- Hours: Welcome Center and The Museums of the Memorial, January 4-March 16, 0900-1700, daily. March 17-May 11, 0800-1900. May 12-May 27, 0800-2000. May 28-September 6, 0800- 30 minutes after laser light show. September 7-October 3, 0800-2000. October 4-October 11. 0800-1800.
- Hours: Bus to Base – A closer look of the Mountain from the base, January 4-March 16, 1000-1600. March 17-May 11, 0900-1800. May 12-May 27, 0900-1900. May 28-September 6, 8:30 am – the last boarding 1.5 hours before the Laser Light Show begins. September 7-October 3, 0900-1900. October 4-October 11. 0900-1700.
- Admission: January 1-May 27, $30.00, 3 or more people in a vehicle. $24.00, 2 people in a vehicle. $12.00, 1 person in a vehicle. $7.00, per person on a motorcycle, bicycle or walking. May 28-October 11, $35.00, 3 or more people in a vehicle. $30.00, 2 people in a vehicle. $15.00, 1 person in a vehicle. $10.00, per person on a motorcycle, bicycle or walking. No parking fees.