Category: Religious Institutions

Along the Rhine-Bacharach

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are so many beautiful towns along the Rhine River in Germany. But how do you decide which one to visit?

You call a friend who is from there for suggestions!

So, after my friend, Annie, gave me a list of her favorites, I decided on the town of Bacharach. Only a few trains stops up the river, she described it as charming with a very German feel and consisting of an upper town with amazing views of the valley below and a small town beneath. At this time of year, there would not be many tourists…the most enticing bit of information!

After a long night of transatlantic travel, I was tired, but I decided to head right out to make the most of the shorter hours of the fall season.

It took a few minutes to figure out my train ticket and which platform I was leaving from at the Mainz train station, however, I was soon on my way. Forty-five minutes (and a short nap) later, I was exiting Bacharach’s small station and heading into the lower town along the river.

Bacharach Train Station
First views of Bacharach from the train station

Walking along the main street, I found it to be extremely picturesque and quiet, which was both good and bad. Good that I did not have to fight for space along the small walkways and narrow streets, but bad that not a lot of the shops were open. Contenting myself with a bit of window shopping, I headed north towards the center of town, passing the Stadt Bacharach am Rhein, a city government office, and other buildings, all constructed in the traditional half-timbered style.

Walking along Bacharach’s main street (Stadt Bacharach am Rhein bottom, middle photo).
Walking along Bacharach’s main street
Hotel Kranenturm, an historic hotel built into and alongside the Kranenturm tower and city walls.
Walking along Bacharach’s main street.

Kirch St. Peter in Bacharach, the town’s Catholic church, was open, however, I decided to bypass instead to make the ascent to the upper town first. Taking the stairs behind the church, I began the long climb, pausing every so often to take a breather and take in my surroundings. Views of the nearby hillsides offered ancient crumbling walls, old towers and lovely perspectives of the town below.

Kirch St. Peter in Bacharach
Stairs to Werner chapel, castle and upper town.
Views from the stairway.

Eventually, along the long, steep staircase, I came upon the Ruine Wernerkapelle. The Werner Chapel was a major landmark in Bacharach and was erected after the murder of a boy called Werner. The fury over the murder resulted in riots and subsequently, the deaths of forty other people. In 1287, work began on the chapel to commemorate Werner’s memory and to offer a place of prayer for those making pilgrimages to his grave site. Sadly, the beautiful chapel was destroyed in the War of the Grand Alliance in 1689 and only the crumbling ruins remain.

Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel

Continuing my climb, the stairs transitioned from hard stone to packed earth, littered with fallen leaves and twigs causing me to carefully place my footing with each step. Breathing heavy and tired, I finally encountered a stone archway and a another set of steps leading to Burg Stahleck, the historic castle dating back to the 12th century. Now housing the Bacharach Youth Hostel, it consists of half-timbered houses, romantic courtyards, towers and a cozy wine bar with stunning views of the Rhine Valley.

Werner Chapel from higher up
Entrance to Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck

After winding my way throughout the property, I headed to the small restaurant, grabbed a bottle of Bitburger beer and sat in the courtyard, watching the cruise boats navigate the river below. The beer was a much needed refreshment but after a night of little sleep, I had to fight the urge to have another lest I succumb to the longer sleep I desperately needed…plus, I still had much to see in the lower town!

Views from Burg Stahleck courtyard

Descending the seemingly never-ending staircase, I finally reached St. Peter’s church (est. 1230) once again. Thankfully finding it unlocked, I ventured inside, admiring the rich ornamentation and beautiful interior in the early French Gothic Style. While not as ostentatious as those in Italy or Central and South America, what I admired most was the beautiful organ and the brightly colored capitals on the columns.

Kirch St. Peter
Kirch St. Peter
Kirch St. Peter
Kirch St. Peter
Kirch St. Peter
Kirch St. Peter

Heading west behind the church, but still in the lower town, I found myself strolling along small pathways next to a narrow waterway. Admiring the flowers that grew along the trail and the beautiful old homes, I finally found the Steeger Tor, the wooden tower built in the 14th century at the western corner of the city’s fortifications. The Steeger Tor has retained its original roof and is constructed in the half-timbered style seen throughout the city. Covering the Blücherstraße, cars are still allowed to transit through its open base.

Pathway to Steeger Tor
Pathway to Steeger Tor
Pathway to Steeger Tor
Steeger Tor
Steeger Tor
Steeger Tor

After a string of cars had passed, I carefully walked though the opening and then made my way up to the hillside planted with rows of grapevines winding their way along the wired supports. A dusty path led me to the Postenturm, which once acted as a defense tower in the northern wall of the town and was restored as a water reservoir in 1899. Now solely an observation tower, the slate quarry stone spire allows visitors to climb to its head for incredible views of the upper and lower towns and the surrounding countryside.

Bacharach’s fields of grapes which yield their famous wine
Postenturm
Postenturm
Views from the Postenturm
Views from the Postenturm
Postenturm

After my visit, I continued back down the hillside and encountered a cute grey cat who jumped down from its perch to lead me to the way back to the lower town. Wandering the small cobblestone streets, I discovered many interesting sights…an alleyway filled with umbrellas, the Virgin Mary tucked behind a small arched window, a wishing well and a garden of zebras…before finding the Münzturm.

Pathway from the Postenturm
My cat guide.
Discoveries in the lower town.
Discoveries in the lower town.
The lower town.
View of the Postenturm from the lower town.
Restaurant in the lower town.
The lower town.

The Münzturm, an historic tower, is well known throughout the region as the location that Swedish troops entered to invade the city during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648). Built in the 14th century, it is also known as the Mint Tower or the Coin Tower because of its location near the Palatinate mint on Oberstrasße. As with the Steeg Tor, cars can utilize the narrow opening at the bottom to enter the city and a staircase on the southern side leads to the city wall. Still in use today, the upper floors serve as a guild tower, archive and meeting room for the Wine Guild Bacchus Zechgesellschaft zu Bacharach und Steeg von 1328.

Münzturm, also known as the Mint Tower or the Coin Tower.

While my plan had been to have a bite to eat at the medieval, half-timber Altes Haus, I discovered that it did not open on this particular day until 6:00 p.m. Not wanting to return to Mainz in the late evening, I decided to take a few photos of the place that was immortalized by Rhine poets and the setting of many films. This famous restaurant was built in 1586 but an inscription on the house states that its beginnings date back to 1368.

Altes Haus restaurant

Continuing on with my explorations, I headed back toward St. Peter’s Church, taking a left on Marktstraße. Here, I discovered yet another historic tower, the Marktturm.

The lower town.
Marktturm

This tower was well known for the annual Bacharach wine market that took place between the tower and the church during the 15th and 18th centuries. During the 18th century, it also functioned as a prison, during the 19th century, it housed the community bell and in the 20th, a wine tavern. Escaping damage during World War II, it was restored in 1910 and today it is used as a private residence. Part of one of the best preserved city fortifications in the Rhine Valley, you can also access the city wall from a staircase on the left-hand side.

Passing beneath the Marktturn, I headed to the pathway outside the city walls for a different perspective. While I did not walk along the immediate river front, I could see numerous boats traversing the waters and a couple parked at the river’s edge. I knew there were boats that could take me all the way back to Mainz, but I was not sure of the schedule or the embarkation and disembarkation points. Instead, I walked along, passing the Church of St. Nikolaus and the Customs House while making my way back to the train station. What I later learned was that it has been said that once upon a time, kings from around the world would only drink Bacharach wine. Being a major player in the wine industry, the sales and the collected customs duties, in this exact building, made Bacharach an extremely wealthy town.

City entrance and city walls. Alternate view of the Kranenturm hotel which is built into the city wall and tower.
Church of St. Nikolaus

While there are many beautiful towns throughout this region, Bacharach is definitely one that warrants the effort for those desiring to be transported back many centuries. Definitely not a large city, but I would still say that Bacharach is still a rich one. Rich in its history and rich in that it is one of Germany’s true treasures in the Rhine Valley.

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Burg Stahleck

Kirch St. Peter in Bacharach-Evanglische Kirchengemeinde Vierthaler

Ruine Wernerkapelle

Steeger Tor

Postenturm

Münzturm

Altes Haus

Marktturm

Around the Hoorn

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

So often have I visited Amsterdam over the years, that sometimes I need a bit of variety. Looking for a nice little day trip to get me away from the city I stumbled upon an article about the town of Hoorn, a city in the northern part of The Netherlands.  The article had stated that Hoorn was one of the “Best Day Trips From Amsterdam”, so I thought, why not? Though it was early Fall, the sun was forecasted to be shining and it was going to be rather warm…the perfect day for some sightseeing!

Taking the train from Amsterdam’s Central Station, I thought I was doing the right thing when I arrived at the station and nabbed an earlier departure.  I relaxed in my seat and readied for my hour-long trip. The train’s whistle sounded and the train began its departure from the city, while I began to watch my progress on Google maps. But wait! I was suddenly confused to see that the train heading northwesterly towards Alkmaar.  It dawned on me that I made a major mistake by taking the earlier departure…this train was a local, not the express, so there I was, sightseeing in the Netherlands countryside for an extra half hour…a mistake I was sure to not make on my return!

A bit beyond my anticipated arrival, we finally pulled into the Hoorn station and I made my way past canals, flowers and quaint homes, much like I have seen in other parts of the country. I had planned a route that would take me though the center of the city and its churches, to the waterfront and to two of the city’s ancient gates.

Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn

The Grote Kerk, of which origins date back to medieval times, was my first stop, but unfortunately, I found it to be under construction and not open to the public.  This structure is the third to be built on the site and dates back to 1883.  While I was not allowed inside, I was able to admire its tower with its unadorned needle spire and clock from afar. I then continued on to the main square, hoping to visit the Roman Catholic church of Saint Cyriacus and Francis, popularly called the Dome Church.

Grote Kerk
Grote Kerk

Geez, were all of the churches undergoing construction???!!!  Here, I found the façade of the Dome Church blocked with scaffolding, however, undeterred, I found the entrance and took a peek inside. 

The Dome Church

The Dome Church, built in 1882, is still in use today and known for its amazing dome, stained glass and renowned artwork.  A small chapel greeted me as I entered, however, the interior was partitioned off by a glass wall.  While I would have loved to walk through towards the main altar so that I could appreciate the dome, the glass doors were locked.  Still, I was grateful that I could see some of its interior from afar.

Upon my departure, I headed toward the main part of town, passing through the Kaasmarkt (main square) and the statue of Jan Pietersz Coen. Though the city’s streets were on the quiet side, I was not surprised to see a few other tourists congregating around this statue and dining in the outdoor restaurants that lined the square.

Statue of Jan Pietersz Coen
Kaasmarkt

Making my way towards the waterfront and marina, I found a paved pathway, which was perfect for exercise and just enjoying the beauty of the lake, Markermeer.  As I followed the coast towards the small lighthouse at the end of the path, I took in the various artwork that lined the walkway.  Designed by various artists, they comprised both modern and rustic elements.  My favorite?  “The Empty Coat” by Marion Jebbink.

“The Empty Coat” by Marion Jebbink

Eventually, my walk ended at the lighthouse, a small, basic wood-beam structure.  It was not very picturesque, but it had given my walk a purpose and I had some good views of the Heritage Sailing Center and the Museum of the 20th Century. 

Museum of the 20th Century
Heritage Sailing Center

Heading back to where I had come, I then skirted the marina on the far side, making my way to the Hoofdtoren.

Views from the waterfront
Boats and houses along the Grashaven

The Hoofdtoren is a tower named after the nearby jetty Houten Hoofd and was constructed in 1532.  While it acted as one of the last defenses of the city and located at the port, it now acts as a popular restaurant.  Adjacent to the tower, on the quay wall, is a statue of the Ship Boys of Bontekoe from the book of the same name and it is a nice place to take in the beautiful old boats that fill the harbor.

Hoofdtoren
Hoofdtoren
Hoofdtoren
Boats in the Vluchthaven
Boats in the Vluchthaven
Boats along the Binnenhaven

A little further up the Oude Doelenkade, I crossed the Hoge Bruge, the iron drawbridge that crosses the Oude Haven and headed toward the Oosterkerk.  Built in 1616, the church was originally a Roman Catholic temple used by fisherman and boat captains.  After the Reformation, it became a Dutch Reformed Church and was known for its beautiful stained-glass windows but also for its organ, built in 1764 by Johann Heinrich Hartmann Batz…the only one that he built in North Holland.  Today, decommissioned, the historic structure is a cultural center which hosts activities such as concerts, meetings, weddings and memorials.  

Hoge Bruge
Hoge Bruge
Oosterkerk
Oosterkerk
Oosterkerk

Sadly, it wasn’t really my day for churches…I found this one locked up as well…

Kleine Oostbrug

Finally, crossing the Kleine Oostbrug, I made it to the edge of the city center and the Oosterpoort, the city’s only remaining gate, built in 1578.  Located on the Draafsingel, a remnant of the original defensive canal, the Oosterpoort bridge runs under the gate, giving pedestrians and cyclists a pathway across the waterway.  While it serves a practical purpose, it definitely gives visitors a look into the city’s history and a place for stunning photos. 

Oosterpoort
Oosterpoort bridge
Oosterpoort
Oosterpoort

As the day was coming to a close, I wound my way back through the city, crossing the pedestrian bridge, Kippebruggetje, enroute to the train station.  I had enjoyed my outing in the beautiful little city of Hoorn, but shadows were now creeping in, signaling the day’s end.  I wanted to make sure that I caught my train back to Amsterdam.

Kippebruggetje

This time…the right train!

The Noble Tombs of Verona

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Scaliger family (also known as Della Scala or Saligieri) of Verona was an influential one from the 13th to 14th century, ruling during this time period.

The family rose to prominence during the 11th century with their founder, Masstino I della Scala becoming the chief magistrate after the defeat and death of Ezzelino da Romano, a tyrant of Verona, in 1277. Succeeded by his brother Alberto and subsequently by Alberto’s son, Bartolomeo, it was during the latter’s reign that, according to tradition, Romeo and Juliet fell in love and died.

With such prestige in life, it is expected that in death, the members of this family would also be celebrated and entombed extravagantly so that others could pay homage for many centuries.

In many cultures, cemeteries exist so that the living can pay their respects to the dead. The Italian one is no exception, however, while some gravesites that Americans are familiar with are simple headstones, prominent families in Italy are entombed in elaborate mausoleums. These mausoleums of the Scaligeri are fine examples of the artistic talents put to use to show the wealth and power that the family held.

In Verona, the Scaliger tombs stand in the courtyard of the Church of Santa Maria Antica, which dates to 1185. While I was not sure what I was enroute to see, after spotting it on Google Maps a few blocks from Juliet’s House, it was certainly a landmark that I was glad that I had sought out. To say that the Scaliger tombs are elaborate would be an understatement!

Enclosed by an iron fence, it is easy for passersby to examine the tombs from afar. I assure you, however, it is worth the minimal entrance fee to enter the premises and see these monumental burial chambers up close and personal.

Entrance to the Scaligeri Tombs (doorway, left) and Santa Maria Antica (doorway, right)

Adjacent to the Piazza dei Signori, the historic central square of Verona’s Città Antica and other major attractions, the memorials invite visitors to understand the idea of the wealth and power of the Lords of Verona. While the funerary monuments are not plentiful, they are indeed breathtaking examples of Gothic art.

A handout, given to me by caretakers who also accepted my entrance fee, directed me around the small courtyard and I inspected each of the tombs which are located on the ground or on raised floors.

The tomb of Cangrande I Della Scala is placed above the portal of the church and is the first of the tombs that was built in the 14th century by his own will. The tomb is comprised of a tabernacle supported by embellished dogs and on the lid is the reclining statue of the deceased. The sides are decorated and on the top of the canopy, there is a copy of the equestrian statue of Cangrande I (the original is kept in the Castelvecchio Museum along with the funerary equipment).

Tomb of Cangrande I Della Scala

The ark of Mastino II, which was begun in 1345, had many design changes over the years. Originally painted and gilded, it is surrounded by a gate at the corners of which there are four statues of the Virtues. On the lid, there is a statue of Mastino II lying down and being watched over by two angels. There is an equestrian statue of Mastino II, a copy, of which the original being located in the Castelvecchio clock tower.

The ark of Mastino II

The ark of Cansignorio, which dates back to 1375, is the most elaborately decorated. Designed by Bonino da Campione, it depicts sculptures of warrior saints, characters from the Gospels, Virtues and Apostles and a large equestrian statue of Cansignorio.

The ark of Cansignorio

The sarcophagus of Albert I is a richly carved monument, constructed in 1301.

The sarcophagus of Albert I
Tomb of Bartolomeo I
Tomb of Alboino

The tomb of Mastino I is the oldest.

Tomb of Mastino I

The hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala is a work by Andriolo de Santi. It was finished in 1359 at the church of S. Fermo Maggiore, where it remained until 1400.

The hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala

This sarcophogi is the most ornamented in the lot. It was possibly commissioned by Alberto I in 1300 and might have been the first burial site for Cangrande.

Possibly the first burial site of Cangrande

After my inspection of the tombs was complete, I found the Church of Santa Maria Antica to be open on this day. This small church was originally linked with a convent founded in 744-745. In the 1200s, it became the private chapel of the Scaligeri family who then erected their famous sepulchre alongside the structure.

The Church of Santa Maria Antica

Wandering in, I donned a shoulder covering given to me by one of the volunteers. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before departing.

Santa Maria Antica
Santa Maria Antica

There were many places that I visited on my brief trip to Verona. It was interesting to realize, in retrospect, that so many of the places I had visited, had connections to the others. The Castelvecchio Museum contained some of original pieces of the Scaligeri tombs, which I had unknowingly inspected on my visit there earlier in the day, and later on, I had visited San Fermo Maggiore church which had held the hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala for many years. I had not known all of this prior to my visit, but only later, when doing some research.

While not a lengthy visit, take a few minutes to visit the Scaligeri tombs to comprehend the beauty and history of these funerary monuments and seek out their significance in the other landmarks of Verona.

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Scaliger Tombs

  • Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: €3 (unverified)

Vibrant Verona

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

While visiting Venice is an amazing experience, after having been there many times, one gets the itch to see other cities in the region. Having already taken the train to Padua a few years prior, I was planning on seeing some other nearby cities. On this particular day, however, realizing that we had arrived a little earlier than normal, I decided to venture out a little further…to Verona.

Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, situated on the Adige River and known as the setting for two of William Shakespeare’s plays, Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Because of its artistic heritage and opera season staged in its Roman amphitheater, it attracts millions of visitors each year.

Ruled by the della Scala family during the 13th and 14th century, the city was extremely prosperous during their reign and this wealth can be spied throughout its boundaries today; in its monuments, walls and architecture and more. While I was aware that many tourists head straight to Juliet’s House and Museum, one of the most famous places in the city, I decided to do this as well, but also to see the other aspects that make this UNESCO World Heritage Site so special.

After the hour and ten minute train ride, I quickly ducked into a station shop to purchase a face mask for the return trip or for any other attraction which might require it. During my train ride, I had realized that KN95 face masks were still required on public transportation when conductors removed five British travelers at the stop prior to Verona’s Porta Nuova station. While I had a regular surgical mask, I realized that it was not enough and was thankful that I went unnoticed.

Verona Train Station

Thankful that crisis had been averted, I set out to walk to the city center, first stopping at the Porta Nuova (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=30718), the city’s old gate. Stopping for a few photos, I then continued on Corso Porta Nuova past Giardini Pradaval and its sculptures and statues, the Lapidary Museum Maffeiano and I Portoni della Bra the historic gate that once divided the city from the countryside and connects the Porta Nuova railway station to Piazza Bra. While I felt welcomed by the city gate Porta Nuova, it was when I walked through the arches of I Portoni della Bra that I felt as though I was truly entering the city and readied myself for the city’s beauty.

Porta Nuova Gate
Giardini Pradaval
Lapidary Museum Maffeiano
I Portoni della Bra
I Portoni della Bra

Having planned to see the amphitheater, I decided to take a detour and walk toward the river and the Castelvecchio Museum, since its opening hours were fewer. Making my way across its intimidating drawbridge into the courtyard, I then headed inside to make my way through its major Italian art collections distributed over twenty-nine rooms. Sculpture, paintings, ancient weapons, ceramics, goldsmiths, miniatures and ancient city bells were artfully displayed throughout the castle which dates back to the mid 1300s. While it was built as a residence for the della Scala family, it was mainly used for the military defense of the city and that is evident by its towering walls and battlements.

Castelvecchio Exterior
Castelvecchio Entrance

While I enjoyed my walk through the castle’s interior, what I really wanted to do was investigate the courtyards, the battlements and the clock tower. Climbing up the stairway, I made my way first to the rear of the castle and was rewarded with stunning views of the river and the Scaligero Bridge. It was a beautiful day and being out on the walls was the perfect place to be! Some of the passageways were a bit narrow but easy to navigate and to reach the seven towers. From the front of the castle, the views of the city, the large courtyard, the clock tower and the small courtyard beneath the tower were so stunning that I could have stayed up there all day. Finally, I passed through the adjacent walkway to the bridge and took a quick stroll across so that I could say “I did”.

Scaligero Bridge

If I was going to see everything, however, it was time to move on and I decided to continue my path along the Corso Cavour, which follows the river. A short stroll later, I passed the Arco dei Gavi, a massive, ancient white-marble arch which was was used as a gate in the walls during the Middle Ages. During the Napoleonic rule, French engineers demolished it and its ruins were moved to a square and then to the arena. In 1932, the arch was reconstructed, under Mussolini’s rule, in its current spot next to the Castelvecchio, very near its original location.

Arco dei Gavi

A little further down the road, I happened upon the Basilica di San Lorenzo. As I always make time for a church, I spent a few moments walking through this 12th structure. Built in the Romanesque style on the remains of a 5th or 6th century paleo-Christian building, using some of the original materials, it was interesting to see the two different types of building materials stemming from the different phases of construction…alternating brick and stone which gives the interior a striking pattern of strips in the columns and the walls and apse. Listening in to a tour guide’s spiel, I also learned that a unique feature is the presence of the women’s galleries, still intact and open onto three sides. Though my stop was a quick one, I was glad to see this beautiful church.

Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo Exterior
Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo

Near the Ponte della Vittoria, I decided to move into the city center as there was more to see in that domain. A few minutes later, I passed under the impressive Porta Borsari, the arched limestone gate, which dates back to the 1st century and served as the main entrance to the city.

Porta Borsari

There were many more churches, including the Church of St. Eufemia; some open, some closed for the afternoon, and as I spied many balconies, I thought of Juliet’s House, which I had planned to visit…whenever I got there! But of course, there was so much to see along the way!

Other churches in Verona

Glancing at my watch, I decided to snatch a few moments at the Church of San Giovanni in Foro. A minor church, it was built on what was the main Roman road. Badly damaged by fire in 1172, while much of Verona was destroyed, its restoration in the early 1900s led to the discovery that Roman walls had been incorporated into the external walls of the church. It was small and dimly lit, but its beautiful mosaics, stone walls and ancient paintings made me glad that I had stumbled upon this gem.

Church of San Giovanni in Foro
Church of San Giovanni in Foro

Continuing on, I finally made my way to the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the center of the city’s political and economic life. There were many market stalls hawking souvenirs and food, but there were lots of statues, fountains and other landmarks to see. More importantly, the square is surrounded by many buildings and monuments that have marked the history of Verona…City Hall, Lamberti Tower, the Houses of Mazzanti, Maffei Palace, the Gardello Tower and the Casa dei Mercanti (Merchant’s House). What I loved most, however, was the ancient fountain (circa 1368) with its roman statue, Madonna Verona, built by Bonino da Campione, which stands proudly in the center of the square and welcomes visitors to investigate its history.

Piazza delle Erbe
Piazza delle Erbe
Piazza delle Erbe
Madonna Verona
Piazza delle Erbe

My goodness…what wasn’t there to see? I love everything about Rome and its “in your face architecture”, but the simplicity of Verona with the minor details that begged you to slow down and savor it was unlike anything I had ever experienced in Italy. Everywhere I laid my eyes, there was stunning construction, architectural details on every building, including balconies upon which other Italian ladies, like the fictional Juliet, may have stood, conversing down to their young paramours.

Finding my way to the Scaliger Tombs, I decided that I needed to enter the premises so that I could see these stunning tombs at close range. After paying my entrance fee, I was given a handout to guide me through the small courtyard. Each of the elaborate tombs were unique and some just outright ostentatious. While passerby could get a glimpse through the iron bars of all of the tombs, I thought it much better to see their beauty unobstructed.

Scaliger Tombs

These five funerary monuments celebrate the Scaliger family who ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century. Located in a wrought-iron fenced enclosure of the church of Santa Maria Antica, these Gothic tombs were constructed for the wealthy members of the noble Scaliger dynasty who ruled as the Lords of Verona; Cangrande I, Mastino II, Cansignorio, Alberto II and Giovanni.

Scaliger Tombs
Scaliger Tombs
Scaliger Tombs

The church was open and I was given a covering for my shoulders as I entered. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before leaving.

Santa Maria Antica

Finally, next on the list was the famed Juliet’s House, a short walk away. As expected, after walking through the short corridor to the courtyard, I found it extremely crowded with other visitors. Everyone was jockeying for position and waiting for their chance to pose with the bronze statue of Juliet. Noting the balcony above, and those also posing there for photographs, I figured out which door to enter to pay my admission.

Juliet’s House
Juliet’s House

Inside, there were statues paying homage to Shakespeare, another bronze statue of Juliet, period furniture and the bed and Renaissance costumes from Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film version of Romeo and Juliet. The wooden floors and artfully decorated ceilings were extremely cozy, although very roomy, depicting the wealth of the Capello family (from which the name Capulet was derived). Eventually, I was able to step out onto the balcony and also pose for a photo, but I was interested to find that even though the house dates back to 13th century, the balcony was only added during the 20th century.

Juliet’s House
Juliet’s House
Juliet’s House

On my way out, I noticed the red mailbox, which collects the letters “to Juliet” from visitors. Remembering the 2010 movie Letters to Juliet, I smiled at the messages visible in the small window in the center, glancing around, wondering where the women who volunteer to answer them were.

Just up the road, I happened upon Porta Leoni, the ancient gate that was built during the Roman Republic and features a double façade and two towers. Adjacent, below the street level are amazing Roman excavations.

Porta Leoni

The afternoon was dwindling away and although I had seen so much during my afternoon visit to Verona, I still wanted to see the amphitheater. Deciding to walk along the river in order to make navigation back to Corso Porta Nuova a little easier, I was stopped in my tracks by an imposing church on the corner.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

Oh, I was here and I couldn’t resist, so I went in, hoping I had enough time for everything else on my list…namely the amphitheater. The church was still open and I paid my admission, following the handout offered to me, which guided me to both the Upper and Lower churches.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

Starting with the Lower church, I traversed the ancient staircase to reach the first and oldest cloister of the complex. Here, I marveled at the decorated ribbed vaults and frescoed columns which divided the space. Of particular note was the early 14th century fresco depicting the Virgin seated on a throne with baby Jesus and a 12th century fresco of the Baptism of Jesus. There is a tombstone of jurist Antonio Pelacani, who died in 1327, showing him teaching his students and another of scholar Master Omobono, built in 1330. In the presbytery, there is a wooden crucifix from the 14th century and in the right transept, the stone upon which saints Fermo and Rustico were beheaded.

Lower Church
Lower Church
Lower Church
Lower Church
Lower Church

Back upstairs in the Upper church, I found it to be a massive and towering space. Again, crumbling frescoes decorated the walls and a large wooden door was topped with a fresco of the Crucifixion of Christ. The single nave church contained five apses and of particular interest was the Della Torre altar, from the 18th century, Our Lady’s Chapel (1613), which contains a some significant paintings and the presbytery with its marble altar, created by Schiavi, on which the relics of Saints Fermo and Rustico are kept.

Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church

There were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel. Upper ChurchThere were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel.

Sadly, I had saved the amphitheater for last and it was not meant to be.

This time…

With so much to see in Verona, I was impressed with what I had undertaken and experience in a single afternoon. As there is much more enjoy in Verona, I realized that I would definitely return in the near future.

Pulling my KN95 mask from my bag…it was time to make that train.

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Castelvecchio Museum

  • https://museodicastelvecchio.comune.verona.it/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=42545
  • Address: Corso Castelvecchio, 2, Verona, Italy
  • Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000 to1800. Last entrance at 1715. Closed Mondays, December 24, January 1.
  • Admission: Adults, €6.00 (+ €.60 online presale), Children (ages 8-14 years), €1.00 (+€.10 online presale). Free admission for residents of 65 years in the Municipality of Verona, persons with disabilities and their companion, children up to 7 years, holders of the VeronaCard.

Arco dei Gavi

Basilica di San Lorenzo

Porta Borsari

  • Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 57A, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Chiesa di San Giovanni in Foro

  • Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 20, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: hours unknown
  • Admission: free

Piazza delle Erbe

Scaliger Tombs

  • Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: €3 (unverified)

Juliet’s House

Porta Leoni

  • Address: Via Leoni, 37100 Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours daily
  • Admission: free

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

  • https://www.chieseverona.it/it/le-chiese/la-chiesa-di-san-fermo
  • Address: Corte S. Elena, Piazza Duomo 35, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100-1800, Saturday, 0930-1800, Sunday, 1300-1800
  • Admission: Single entry €4. Entry to four churches, San Fermo, San Zeno, Cathedral Complex and Santa Anastasia, Basilica of San Zeno, the Cathedral Complex, the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, €8

The Holy Chapel

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Visiting Paris with my, then 13 year-old son, many years ago, we had mentally prepared a list of things that we wanted to do and experience…the Louvre, Notre Dame, Montmartre, the Sacre Coeur and of course, the Eiffel Tower. Naturally, we hoped to add more to our list as we happened upon it and that’s kind of what happened with Sainte-Chapelle.

While waiting to pay our admission at the Arc de Triomphe, we spotted a poster-style sign on the wall advertising Sainte-Chapelle. I had vaguely heard of it prior to this trip, but it really wasn’t a place that we had allotted time for in our schedule. My son, however, was transfixed with the photo of the vivid stained glass windows and insisted that we could go.

Time was limited, but after our visit to the Arc de Triomphe, we dashed to the Metro and made it to the Île de la Cité with a little time to spare. Securing our entry tickets, we walked into an architectural and chromatic dreamland.

While the Gothic-style itself was mesmerizing, it was those stained-glass windows that had captivated my son and drew us here that took our breath away.

Walking through the Sainte-Chapelle, we admired the vividness of the soaring apertures that fill in the upper walls of the space and the golden accents, comprehensive statues, architectural details, rich colors and brightly lit chandeliers hanging from the vaulted ceiling. Albeit a spontaneous decision, we had made the right one.

Last spring, remembering this experience so fondly and after having toured Chateau de Vincennes’ Sainte-Chapelle earlier in the year, I decided to return while on one of my Parisian layovers.

The walk across the bridge to the Île de la Cité and Saint-Chapelle

Booking a ticket online, I arrived at my appointed time and made my way through the security checkpoint, through the courtyard and into the royal chapel. Indeed, it was as beautiful as I remembered it.

Waiting to get in
Entrance
Upper Chapel

Constructed around 1238 and consecrated ten years later, this residence of the Kings of France until the 14th century, is considered one of the highest Gothic architectural achievements of its time. Built by King Louis IX of France, to house his collection of Passion relics, including the Crown of Thorns, it is also one of the earliest surviving buildings on the Île de la Cité. Though damaged during the French Revolution, it was restored and contains one of the most extensive 13th century stained glass collections in the world, with over two thirds of its original glass remaining.

While Sainte-Chapelle is no longer a church, having been secularized after the French Revolution, it is still considered a royal chapel inspired by earlier ones in the realm. This one, with its two levels, equal in size, offered a place (upper level) to house the sacred relics and was reserved for the royal family and their guests. The lower level was used by the courtiers, servants and soldiers of the palace. Its large size was comparable to many of the other Gothic cathedrals in France.

As I made my way through the upper chapel, what struck me most, as it did before, was that most of the walls are mostly constructed of pillars and buttresses and the spaces between are almost entirely glass. On a sunny day, the color is almost blinding with so many panes catching the light. On this day, however, it was quite gloomy outside, but even then, the windows showed off their magnificence.

Upper Chapel
Upper Chapel

The upper chapel was filled with visitors, all gazing skyward and I followed the walls and windows in order, using the laminated card (available in a variety of languages) to decipher what was each window’s theme…the New Testament (featuring scenes of the Passion, the Infancy of Christ and the Life of John the Evangelist) and the Old Testament (featuring scenes from the Book of Genesis, Exodus, Joseph, Numbers/Leviticus, Joshua/Deuteronomy, Judges, Jeremian/Tobia, Judity/Job, Esther, David and the Book of Kings). Created by three different ateliers you can spot the contrasting styles used in the artist’s creations. And finally, I stood before the great rose window, at the rear of the chapel, created and installed in the late 15th century. This window, is composed of eighty-nine separate panels, representing scenes of the Apocalypse and uses a different technique, giving it a brighter look.

Upper Chapel, Rose Window
Upper Chapel, King/Queen Alcove, Middle

After I had made my way through the crowded space, paying particular attention to the two small alcoves set into the opposite walls where the King and Queen worshipped (King, north side, Queen, south side), I proceeded down the stairway to the lower chapel. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, it was heavily decorated with sculpture, columns, murals and the fleur-de-lis emblem of Louis IX, especially on its vaulted ceiling. Whereas the upper chapel soared to great heights, the lower chapel’s ceiling was only 22 feet high, although, still offering its own beautiful stained glass windows, depicting scenes from the Virgin’s life.

Lower Chapel
Lower Chapel
Lower Chapel
Lower Chapel

After my exit from the chapel’s interior, I took a few moments, despite the drizzling rain that had begun to fall, to walk around the exterior and admire its Gothic architectural components. Since visiting Notre Dame is currently not possible since its devastating fire in 2019, this is a stunning substitute on the Île de la Cité.

Sainte-Chapelle exterior

While there are other important “copies” of Sainte-Chapelle throughout the world (Karlstejn Castle, near Prague, Hofburgkapelle, Vienna, Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross and St. Bartholomew, Wroclaw, Poland and Exeter College, Oxford) and you can see some of the early stained glass that was removed at the Musee de Cluny in Paris and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, I can not imagine not seeing this one in person and I was glad for my son’s inquisitiveness and persuasive skills many years ago.

It is truly a masterpiece like no other that should be on the top of every Parisian visitor’s list.

For me, two visits down and many more to come.

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Sainte-Chapelle

  • https://www.sainte-chapelle.fr/en/
  • Address: Sainte-Chapelle, 10, boulevard du Palais 75001 Paris
  • Hours: April 1-September 30, 0900-1900, October 1-March 30, 0900-1700. Last admission, 40 minutes before closing. Closed May 1, December 25 and January 1. Visit by confirmed time slot booked online.
  • Admission: Adult, 11.50€, 18 year old and under, free, 18-25 year old (European Union), free. Combined ticket with Conciergerie, Adult, 18.50€, 18 year old and under, free, 18-25 year old (European Union), free.
  • Getting There: Metro 4, station Cité, RER B ou C, station Saint-Michel, Métro 1,7,11, 14, station Châtelet. By Bus, Lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81, 85, 96 et Balabus, Stations Vélib’ à proximité.

Markets and Ancient Ports

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For many years, it seemed like I visited Tel Aviv almost every month. Over time, however, I have decided to work shorter flights which suit my schedule a little bit better by not having the two night flights that Tel Aviv has.

When someone reached out to me in April, however, and wanted to swap two of my Rome trips for her Tel Aviv, it benefited me to take the swap and have the weekend that I was supposed to work off. Sounded like a good idea…and it was! I was excited to revisit the Mediterranean city to see some favorites and discover some new things!

Despite it being a holiday when we arrived, and finding everything closed, the next day was business as usual. After grabbing some falafel at my favorite place, I decided that I was going to get a lot of steps in, first heading to the Carmel Market.

Carmel Market
Carmel Market

The largest market in Tel Aviv was first opened in 1920, approximately eleven years after the establishment of the city. Located on one street which runs south from the junction of King George Street, Allenby and Sheinkin Street to the Carmelit Bus depot, it always hosts a bustling crowd, especially on Thursdays and Fridays, when locals are making their purchases for their family meals. Visitors should not be intimidated by the locals going about their business as the market also attracts tourists wishing to experience the sights, sounds and of course smells of the freshest fruit and vegetables, spices and other delectables in addition to those hoping to find unique souvenirs and clothing. I have always loved coming here, usually to purchase my olive oil but just for the overall experience!

Carmel Market

Spices in the Carmel Market
Carmel Market
Carmel Market

Carmel Market
Carmel Market

On this day, however, I realized my mistake. Wanting to take a walk to the Old City of Jaffa, I could not purchase my olive oil as I would have to backtrack to my hotel to drop it off or carry the heavy purchase on this journey. Assuming I would have time later to return, I proceeded on to the second leg of my adventure.

To get to the Old City of Jaffa, it is about a thirty-seven minute walk and I decided that I would do it along the waterfront to enjoy the sights and smells of the sea. It was a beautiful April day and I was so thankful to be able to have the time to enjoy the lovely sunshine. It wasn’t long before I passed Charles Clore Park and the Haetzel Betashach Museum which focuses on the history of Etzel, the Hebrew acronym for the National Military Organization (one of the military groups who led the struggle for Israel’s independence). Only pausing to take a few photos of the outside of the museum, I continued on my way quickly arriving at landmark which marks the entrance to the ancient port city.

Haetzel Betashach Museum

The Jaffa Clocktower.

Standing in the middle of the north end of Yefet Street, the limestone tower incorporates two clocks and a plaque commemorating the Israelis killed in the battle for the town in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War. It is one of seven clock towers built in Ottoman Palestine…only one of six that remain.

There was plenty of unique art and architecture to see along the way, but I was determined to make my way through the HaMuze’on Garden, past the Jaffa Theatre and to the Kdumim Visitor Center Square. St. Peter’s Church was on my list, however, I arrived to realize that I was between opening hours. Since it would require waiting for its reopening in a couple of hours, I decided to spend my time re-exploring the old port and seeking out some things in the nearby area.

HaMuze’on Garden

Tiroche Amphitheater

Walking through the square, I made my way to the stairs leading through the garden and to the Wishing Bridge. I remember seeing this bridge a long time ago, but I had forgotten its meaning. I read the sign, “An ancient legend holds that anyone boarding the bridge holds the zodiac sign and looks at the sea – their wish will come true.” Naturally, I had lots of wishes, so I walked along the wooden walkway, studying each of the aged bronze zodiac signs that wrapped around its rails. Placing my hand on the Lion, Leo, I looked out to the sea and made my wish…wishes…hopefully it counted for more than one!


Kdumim Square
Kdumim Square
The Wishing Bridge
The Wishing Bridge (as viewed from below)
The Wishing Bridge
The Wishing Bridge

Walking through the gardens, I appreciated the lush greenery, beautiful flora and sculptural works that filled the landscape. Eventually, I found the other notable item that I had come to see. The replica of ancient Egyptian Ramesses II gate. Without knowing the background, it seems rather unremarkable (and too new), but as I stood there taking photos, a gentleman asked me me what I knew of it. Such began a conversation with a local tour guide Haim Tamari. Mr. Tamari informed me that this replica supplants the original 13th century gate that was discovered in this spot and dates from the period of the rule of Ramesses II. The inscription on one of the gates includes on of the many honorific titles of Ramesses II. Work had recently been completed on the paved and hardscaped area around the gate.

Ramesses II gate


Mr. Tamari and I walked together back to the square as the hour was approaching of the opening of the church. We talked of the history of the area and of my past visits to many parts of the country. Realizing that I was expecting a visit to St. Peter’s he continued on with his dialogue, expanding to the history of the church. He explained that this church was completed in 1894 but was preceded by another from the 16th century which was constructed as a church and inn for pilgrims on the ruins of an earlier temple. It was constructed here because it was in Jaffa that St. Peter raised Tabitha (one of Jesus’ disciples) from the dead (Acts of the Apostles, Acts 9:36-43, Acts 10:1-4) and it is dedicated to him. The church, facing west toward the sea, instead of east (like most churches) was situated on a hill serving as a beacon to pilgrims, signaling that the Holy Land was near.


St. Peter’s Church
Tel Aviv view from St. Peter’s

Thankful that I now had a knowledgeable contact for future tours, I thanked him for sharing his company, conviviality and knowledge. He continued on to an appointment, bidding me a farewell and I took a seat outside the church’s iron gates, tall, brick façade and towering bell tower.

At three o’clock, the doors were opened and I and others who had also congregated at its opening, were ushered inside. As I made my way past each of the side altars, I took in the overall appearance of the church, with its dominant pastel-colored vaulted ceiling, stained glass and ochre marble walls. Taking a seat in one of the pews, I bent my head in prayer only to be distracted and then mesmerized by the pulpit, carved in the shape of a tree. As a tour group made their way inside, I listened as their leader spoke of its history, including an interesting tidbit about Napoleon, who was said to have lived in one of rooms of St. Louis’ citadel just outside and to the right of the sacristy while he was at St. Peter’s in 1799 during the French campaign in Egypt and Syria.


St. Peter’s Church

St. Peter’s Church
St. Peter’s Church
St. Peter’s Church

Finally, my visit to St. Peter’s complete, I exited and made my way through the stairways, alleyways and tunnels of Jaffa toward its port. Walking along the water’s edge, I passed cafes, studios, restaurants and mosques, reminding me that this was a city of more than one faith.

Old Jaffa
Old Jaffa Port
The Sea Mosque (where the city’s Muslim sailors and fisherman prayed before going to sea)


After such a long day, it was time to start the long walk back to my hotel. Arriving almost an hour later, with aching feet, I realized that it was time to grab that nap for the dreaded overnight flight home. Reflecting on my cultural and historically filled day, I realized that I had been missing out on the amazing opportunities that Tel Aviv affords for the lack of sleep. Yes, despite the nap I was getting ready to take, it was going to be a long night home…but definitely worth it.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Carmel Market

  • https://www.touristisrael.com › carmel-market-tel-aviv › 4433
  • Address: HaCarmel Street 48, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
  • Hours: Summer, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1800), Friday, 0700-afternoon (closing begins two hours before Shabbat comes in). Winter, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1600), Friday, 0700-afternoon (two hours before Shabbat comes in).
  • Admission: free

Jaffa Clocktower

St. Peter’s Church

Adventures in New Mexico Part 4-Settlements, Staircases and Sweeping Views

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

With great excitement, we set out early to see what the oldest capital city in the United States would offer. Already having experienced some of Santa Fe’s artistic qualities, we also desired to delight in some of its culinary offerings and encounter its many historical monuments and architecture.

With forest fires burning in the north and to the east, we were not sure how Santa Fe would be affected. Placing a call to the Santa Fe Visitor’s Center, we were assured that there was no smoke blowing toward Santa Fe. While it would have been easy just to head to head to Santa Fe’s Old Town, where many monuments were located, we wanted to head seventeen miles to the east first, to the settlement that was located on the historic Santa Fe trail.

Pecos National Historical Park encompasses thousands of acres which include prehistoric archaeological ruins to 19th century ranches to battlefields of the American Civil War. What I most wanted to see, however, was its notable feature, the Pecos Pueblo known as Cicuye Pueblo, a Native American community abandoned in historic times. Designated as a national monument in 1965, it was enlarged and renamed in 1990 to include two sites within the park, the pueblo and the Glorieta Pass Battlefield.

As we headed southeast on Interstate 25, we noticed an electronic sign at our exit noting the fires in the area. Concerned that circumstances had changed since our conversation with the Santa Fe Visitor’s Center, we almost turned back, but decided to continue on. Thankfully, we later learned that the Battlefield area was closed due to fires in the proximity, but the National Historical Park was open.

Peco’s National Historical Park Visitor’s Center

Starting our explorations in the Park Visitor Center, we learned how the early Indian Settlement once appeared and some aspects of its history through exhibits, artifacts and a short introductory film. We then headed out onto the 1.25 mile loop behind the Visitor’s Center.

Peco’s National Historical Park Visitor’s Center

The trail, lined with cactus, flowers and dry scrub, led us past ancient rock walls, critters, the remnants of ancient kivas, pueblo foundations and lots of rattlesnake warning signs! We were even able to descent into a preserved kiva which gave us an understanding of all of the other opens ones we had seen at Chaco Canyon. Finally, however, we encountered the remains of the last church that the Spanish completed in 1717.

While the Spanish sought to conquer and acquire great wealth, the Franciscan missionaries sought to amass converts. The first church was constructed between 1617 and 1621 but was located a fair distance from the pueblo. In 1625, another mission church was constructed 600 feet south of the pueblo and had an attached Convento which acted as storage, work rooms and living areas for the missionaries. While the construction was funded and supervised by the Franciscans, the Pecos people provided the labor, however, received no pay. Eventually, this forced labor and poor treatment led to the Pecos people joining nearly thirty other pueblos in a revolt against the Spanish Empire in 1680. At this time, the Church and Convento were burned to the ground. A smaller church, the one whose remains still stand today, was built on the rubble and completed in 1717.

The red adobe walls of the church set against the clear blue sky made from some beautiful photos, however, as we scanned the nearby mountains, we spotted smoke rising from the nearby ridges reminding us that the area was experiencing a devastating disaster.

Finally making out way back to the Visitor’s Center, we headed out to the Santa Fe Trail and back to Santa Fe. Spying an opportunity to grab some lunch before heading into Old Town, we stopped at a location of Blake’s Lota’ Burger. We had spotted other locations during our travels and decided to find out what made this New Mexico chain, established in 1952, so special. Green Chiles…grown, harvested and flame-roasted in Hatch, New Mexico and placed on their freshly made beef hamburgers. It was delicious and hit the spot, readying us for our explorations of Old Town.

Blake’s Lota’ Burger Santa Fe

While Old Town is very quaint, parking is a bitch! It took quite a bit of driving around near the main square before we secured a parking spot. Feeding the meter for a couple of hours, we then walked the few blocks to the plaza. The plaza was much larger than Albuquerque’s, also with a bandstand, surrounded by buildings and serves as the historic center’s heartbeat. Numerous artisans filled the covered porticos surrounding the plaza, hawking their wares, and visitors flocked here hoping to find a good deal and grab some respite from the sun.

Old Town Plaza
Santa Fe Old Town Art and Architecture
Peco’s National Historical Park
Peco’s National Historical Park

As we walked through the square and then the old streets, admiring the art and architecture, we finally arrived at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. Commonly known as Saint Francis Cathedral, it was built between 1869 and 1886 on the site of an older adobe church, La Parroquia, which in turn had been built on the site of an older church built in 1626 and destroyed in the 1680 Pueblo Revolt. Today, a small chapel on the north side of the cathedral is all that remains of the adobe church.

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi
Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

As we made our way through the cathedral, I kept feeling as though I had been there before. Though I know that I had not, I surmised that it was because it reminded me so much of the church I had grown up and gotten married in. Built in the Romanesque Revival style, it contained three naves, Corinthian columns and beautifully colored stained glass. What I loved most, however, was the Stations of the Cross. These wooden, framed paintings were modeled in the Spanish style, as also was the beautiful wooden, paneled altarpiece.

Stations of the Cross

Making our way outside, we studied the façade and statues of Archbishop J.B. Lamy and St. Francis of Assisi, the cathedral’s patron saint. Behind the church was a small garden with other statues and a small park adjacent to the church. While I would have loved to stroll through the park, I found the gates locked as workmen were completing some renovations.

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi Statues

Next on our list was another church, the Loretto Chapel. This small chapel was the first Gothic building west of the Mississippi and was patterned after Paris’ beautiful Sainte Chapelle. Built between 1873 and 1878, it is best known for its choir loft staircase. This circular staircase is considered “miraculous” because of its two complete spirals without center or side supports which defy engineering logic. Indeed, this amazing staircase takes center stage in the small chapel, but its beautiful altar and stunning architectural details also warrant inspection.

Loretto Chapel
The “Miraculous” Staircase
Loretto Chapel High Altar

Next up, yet another church was on our radar. Located on the original route of the Santa Fe Trail (next to the New Mexico and Santa Fe Visitor Information Center) is San Miguel Church. This small adobe structure boasts the title of being the oldest church structure in the United States. The original adobe walls and altar were built by the Tlaxcalan Indians from Mexico under the direction of the Franciscan friars in 1610 to serve a small congregation of soldiers, laborers, and Indians who lived in the Barrio de Analco (now the national historic district of Santa Fe). In 1680, it was partially destroyed during the Pueblo Revolt and rebuilt in 1710 with some structural changes. During its lifetime, under Spanish, Mexican and American rule, it has served as a place of worship, an infirmary for Franciscan missionaries, a military chapel, a venue for talks, concerts and ceremonies and a sanctified space for Sunday Mass in Latin and English.

San Miguel Church

The small chapel offers up a spartan interior with a beautiful wooden beamed ceiling and an all-adobe altar containing a stunning carved and painted wooden altar screen (1798). In the adjacent museum, take note of the Statue of Archangel Michael (1709), which was carried throughout New Mexico to solicit donations for the chapel’s 1710 reconstruction, the painted cross-shaped sword and a painted wooden crucifixion.

Taking note of the time dwindling on our meter, we headed back to our parked vehicle and drove to the Historic Fort Marcy Park area. Finding a spot adjacent to the Thomas Macaione Park, we walked around the corner to find the stairway leading to the Cross of the Martyrs. This replica of the original cross located off of the Old Taos Highway, was erected in the early part of the 20th century to honor the twenty-one Franciscan priests who were martyred during the Pueblo Revolt. The uphill path is lined with plaques detailing the city’s history and from the top, with the cross towering above us, we had sweeping views of Santa Fe below.

Cross of the Martyrs
Cross of the Martyrs

Santa Fe has so much fill your days, it would have been welcome to spend a couple more days investigating the countless museums and galleries spread throughout the city. We had, however, seen most of what we had come to and it was time to head to southern New Mexico for more fun! So with no regrets, we headed back to our hotel for dinner and to rest up for the long drive ahead…and time to raise our sights to the skies on our way to Roswell!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Pecos National Historical Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/peco/index.htm
  • Address: Pecos National Historical Park, 1 Peach Drive, Pecos, NM 87552
  • Hours: Summer (Memorial Day until Labor Day), 0800-1800, daily. Visitor Center, 0800-1700. Winter (Labor Day until Memorial Day), 0800-1630, daily. Visitor Center, 0800-1600. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.
  • Admission: free

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

  • https://cbsfa.org/
  • Address: 131 Cathedral Place, Santa Fe, NM 87501
  • Admission: free
  • Hours: Tuesday to Friday, 0930-1600 , Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday, 0800-1200. Closed Mondays.

Loretto Chapel

  • https://www.lorettochapel.com/
  • Address: 207 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $5.00 USD, Seniors (65 and over), $4.00 USD, Youth (ages 7-17), $3.00 USD, Children (under 7 years), free.

San Miguel Church

  • http://sanmiguelchapel.org/
  • Address: 401 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
  • Hours: Monday 1300-1500, Tuesday-Saturday, 1000-1500, Sunday, 1200-1500. Docent History talks, Tuesday through Saturday, 1100 and 1400.
  • Admission: Closed November 20, 24 & 25

Cross of the Martyrs



Metro de Chateau

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At one end of the Paris metro yellow line is La Defense, the other, Chateau de Vincennes.  

The location of my work hotel is somewhere in between and I’ve visited La Defense’s Christmas market a few years ago, but never gave much thought to the other end of the line.  La Defense is a business district, I just naturally assumed Chateau de Vincennes metro stop was named after the area, not an actual Château.  In actuality, I was partly correct.  

The area of Vincennes was formed in the late 18th century, when two village communities located north of the chateau joined together…the hamlet of La Pissotte, which was built towards the end of the 13th century and Basse-Coura subdivision created under Charles V originally used to house royal servants. In 1829, the territory was enlarged at the expense of Fontenay-sous-Bois and Montreuil.  Vincennes now covers an area of some 192 hectares and has almost 50,000 inhabitants.  It is one of the most densely populated towns in France. 

But, there really is a chateau in Vincennes!  

Setting out shortly after my arrival into Paris, I was excited at the prospect of seeing this chateau in Vincennes that this metro stop was named for. 

Exiting the metro, I discovered massive walls and an imposing gate a short distance away on the Avenue de Paris.  Complete with a draw bridge spanning a moat surrounding the premises, I was reminded of its long history and its need for defense during tumultuous times. 

Chateau de Vincennes entrance

Chateau de Vincennes entrance and moat

Built between 1361 and 1369, this preferred residence of the French Kings was known for its keep and for its beautiful chapel, Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes, although prior monarchs used the area during the century before construction commenced.

Passing through the gates, I glanced up at the bell tower and clock, the very first public clock in France (although now a reproduction with its original kept in Saint Chappelle).  A little further, I walked into a large compound with buildings lining the walkway to both my left and right, and here, I discovered the ticket office.  Although I had purchased my ticket prior to my arrival, I stopped inside to ensure that everything was in order and to confirm what my entry fee covered. Handed a map, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to visit not only the Keep and the Chapel, but also the Queen’s Pavilion. 

Chateau de Vincennes clock tower
Chateau de Vincennes inner courtyards and buildings
Chateau de Vincennes inner courtyards and buildings

The Keep, or “donjon” seemed to be the perfect place to start my explorations.  This fortified central tower, the tallest in Europe at the time, was built during the 14th century.  Initiated by King Philippe VI in 1340, later his son Jean II of France and subsequently, his son, the future Charles V, the fortress with high walls, towers and a keep were completed by 1370. Charles V moved into the Keep with some construction still underway. As I moved through the massive structure with its 52 meter tower in the center, I read through the signage describing each of the areas’ usage.  

The Keep

The ground floor of the Keep has wells and the remains of a large fireplace, probably originally used by royal servants. It was largely rebuilt when the building was used as a prison. 

The Keep entrance
The Keep
The Keep
The Keep
The Keep
View of Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes and King and Queen Pavilions from the Keep

The first floor contained the meeting hall of the Council of the King, and was also used when needed for bedchambers of the Queen and others close to the King. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, some of which are still in place. 

The second floor was occupied by the bedchamber of the King, and has decorations added by Charles V of France  when he rebuilt it from 1367–38. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, and the vaulted ceiling was decorated with sculpted keystones and consoles and painted flour-de-Lys and the coat-of-arms of the King, against a blue background, still visible. A small oratory is set into the north wall, though its wood paneling has disappeared.

The third floor has the same plan as the second, but lacks the ornate decoration of the royal floor. It was probably used by important guests of the King.

The fourth, fifth and sixth floors, which lack ornament, were probably used by domestic servants or soldiers. They were also used to store munitions for the weapons placed at the windows of the fourth floor and on the terraces of tower of latrines and the main body of the keep. The sixth floor has no windows and a ceiling only two meters high, and a single entrance. Beginning in 1752, the upper floors were used primarily as prison cells. The bars in the windows and doors date from that period. The extensive and elaborate graffiti still found on the walls on the upper floors also dates from the 17th and 18th century.

After Charles death, it remained a place of refuge for future kings, eventually converting to a prison and finally, a military installment.  In fact, the most interesting portions of the keep were one of the areas used for the restraint of prisoners.  In this area, I spotted many signatures etched onto the walls and the remains of murals painted on the walls by these prisoners, the most beautiful being those completed by Monseigneur Boulogne, confessor of Napoleon I, imprisoned on his orders.  This room was also used to later keep the Comte de Mirabeau, who spent three years imprisoned at Vincennes where he wrote about the abuses of the royal warrant.  Other famous prisoners included Denis Diderot (1713-1784), François-Vincent Raspail (1794-1878), the Marquis de Sade (1777-1784).

Prisoners’ grafitti
Prisoners’ grafitti
Prisoners’ grafitti

My tour of the Keep complete, I headed across to Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes. Having been to the beautiful chapel of Sainte Chapelle in Paris’ Ile de Cite, I was curious to see how they would compare.

Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes

Conceived by Charles V as his dream to add an exceptional religious monument to the fortress and a place to house the relics of the Passion of Christ, he did not live to see its culmination. With construction beginning in 1379, it still remained unfinished in the 16th century. King Francois I, a frequent resident, resolved to bring it to its completion in 1520, to celebrate the birth of his son and heir. Upon his death, Henry II of France resumed construction, completing the vaults and overseeing the addition of woodwork and stained glass with its completion in 1552.

Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes exterior

While both are built in the Gothic style and organized in the same manner, this one seemed much more narrow and more brightly lit. Devoid of seating or ornamentation aside from the windows and the altar, it was a clear view of the sole internal space, especially from the rear choir loft, in contrast to Sainte Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite having two levels, upper for the King and his family and the lower for ordinary members of the court.

Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes
Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes
Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes
Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes
Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes

The sacristy, a separate two story structure, is attached to the chapel at the oratory of the King on the north side of the chapel and a stunning funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien can be found inside as well.

Funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien

Exiting the Chapel I headed through the arches into the courtyard of the Pavilions of the King and Queen. A beautiful, open and grassy space each building, the King’s Pavilion on the southwest corner and the Queen’s opposite.

View of the King and Queen Pavilion Courtyard
King and Queen Pavilion Courtyard

The King’s Pavilion was constructed between 1610 and 1617 by Louis XVIII and modified over the years to enlarge the structure. Consisting of three stories with five rooms for the King, his apartment looked our west over the gardens. Today, parts of the King’s Pavilion ceiling can be found in the Egyptian collection of the Louvre Museum.

The Queen’s Pavilion was construction many years later, from 1658 to 1660 and followed the same basic design as the King’s structure, however, instead of a garden view, it overlooked the courtyard. As the Germans stored explosives in the two pavilions and these caught fire after an explosion, the building fell in to disrepair.

King’s Pavilion, upper middle. Queen’s Pavilion, middle

On this visit, I was able to visit the King’s Pavilion, which houses an exhibition of the Fortresses of the Emperor depicting Napoleon and his military engineers. Personal possessions, artillery, portraits, models and other objects were found on the second floor and although the signage was in French, it was nice to see part of the interior of the building.

Napoleon exhibit, King’s Pavilion
Napoleon exhibit, King’s Pavilion
Napoleon exhibit, King’s Pavilion

As the day was winding to a close and the temperature started to drop, I decided that my exploration of Chateau de Vincennes was at its end. Making my way back to the entrance gate, I headed back to the metro with the same name…

Exiting Chateau de Vincennes

Chateau de Vincennes.

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Chateau de Vincennes

In Chains

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Some of Rome’s major most beloved sights are what visitors aspire to lay their eyes on while visiting the Holy City…the Colosseum, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican and the Trevi Fountain, just to name a few.

Bursting with history, the city offers many museums, churches and ancient archeological sites which detail the city’s bygone times. Amongst these stand-out attractions, however, there are many hidden gems. While visitors certainly have their pick of other attractions on the way to each of these places, it may be hard to discern which are worthy of a peek inside and I make it my mission to find these hidden gems…many of them, churches.

Last spring, while plotting my route to the Domus Aureus, I spotted a church a few blocks from the Coliseum. I had planned to leave with plenty of time to grab a bite to eat and take some photos of the Coliseum, so I decided to add this detour and mark off another church from my list (yes, I am obsessed with seeing all churches in Rome!).

As I exited the Cavour metro station and marched up Oppian Hill, I became a bit confused. Although I was operating on little sleep, I could not figure out if this was my intended destination. The façade of the the supposed church was extremely plain and situated next to a university building. In fact, spotting students chatting and reading on the adjoined steps, I thought it to be an extension of the university edifice.

San Pietro in Vincoli façade

Fully expecting to interrupt a classroom full of scholars, engaged in a discussion on world politics, I marched up to the conventional brown door, set inside a narrow portico, and pushed it open.

Entrance doors

No stern professor glared back at me for the abrupt interruption…

This was San Pietro in Vincoli, or St. Peter in Chains, the church that houses the restraints that bound St. Peter when he was imprisoned in Jerusalem.

Formerly known as Basilica Eudoxiana, it was built on older foundations during a span of eight years, starting in 432. Consecrated in 439, it was to become the place that would house the shackles that kept St. Peter imprisoned.

The chains from Saint Peter’s Jerusalem confinement were passed from Iuvenalis, Bishop of Jerusalem, to Aelia Eudocia (consort of Valentinian II) and then given to her daughter, Empress Eudoxia (wife of Emperor Valentinian III).  They were then gifted, by the Empress, to Pope Leo I. Legend states that on August 1, when Pope Leo I compared them to the chains of St. Peter’s final imprisonment in the Rome’s Mamertime Prison, the two chains fused together prompting the pope to initiate the construction of a place where this miracle could be viewed by the faithful.

The church contains a main nave and two aisles and normally, I would first work my way through each aisle to see the side chapels. This time, I headed straight for the main altar. There was something special here that I needed to see.

Main altar

Underneath the main altar, accessed by an open stairway, I found these important relics, housed in a reliquary in a lighted case and flanked by statues. Judging by todays standards and chains that I have seen used in various applications, these appear to be thin and quite flimsy. That being said, even with these restraining me, I probably could have not escaped imprisonment and I was moved knowing that these iron manacles once touched the flesh of Saint Peter.

The chains of Saint Peter
The chains of Saint Peter

My inquisitiveness satisfied, I moved on, focusing my attention on the other important aspect of San Pietro in Vincoli. While the basilica is more commonly known for the chains of Saint Peter, it is also very well known for being the home of Michelangelo’s statue of Moses which guards the tomb of Pope Julius II. Located on the right side of the church, the imposing funeral monument was originally intended to be part of a massive forty-seven foot statue. Instead, it became the centerpiece of the Pope’s tomb. There is much to analyze in the massive sculptural piece, however, take a hard look at Moses…he is depicted with horns, connoting “the radiance of the Lord”, a symbol that was common in early sacred art and easier to sculpt than rays of light.

Michelangelo’s statue of Moses and the tomb of Pope Julius II
Moses reproductions for closer inspection

Naturally, I proceeded to move through the two side aisles and the two side altars, inspecting the chapels and beautiful works displayed in each as well as glancing above at the 18th century coffered ceiling. This great work of art displays the Miracle of the Chains, by Giovanni Battista Parodi, depicting the healing of Saint Balbina by Pope Alexander as he touches the neck goiter with the chains that once bound Saint Peter.

San Pietro in Vincoli side chapels
San Pietro in Vincoli side chapel
San Pietro in Vincoli coffered ceiling
San Pietro in Vincoli coffered ceiling

Artistry decorating the basilica include a painting depicting the Liberation of St. Peter (Domenichino,1604), Deposition (Cristoforo Roncalli) on the altarpiece on the first chapel on the left, the tomb of Cardinal Nicholas of Kues and its relief, Cardinal Nicholas before St. Peter. Other notable tombs include the one of Florentine sculptor, Antonio del Pollaiuolo (left side of entrance) who added the figures of Romulus and Remus to the sculpture of the Capitoline Wolf, the tomb of Cardinal Cinzio Aldobrandini and tombs once believe to be the seven Maccabean martyrs depicted in 2 Maccabees 7-14.

The third altar in the left aisle holds a beautiful mosaic of Saint Sebastian from the seventh century which depicts Saint Sebastian’s posthumous role in ceasing the plague in northern Italy in 680. Pay close attention to the frescoes as they illustrate skeletons and other images not often shown in Catholic churches.

As I exited the facility and walked around the peripheral, I was once again struck at its simplistic nature. Disguised by the activities of La Sapienza University next door, housed in the former associated convent, one might never know that they are walking past one of the most illustrious churches in the city.

San Pietro in Vincoli exterior

Yes, on this day, I found one of the city’s hidden gems.

San Pietro in Vincoli

  • https://www.sanpietroinvincoli.com/
  • Address:  Piazza di San Pietro in Vincoli 4/a, Roma, Italy 00184
  • Hours: Daily, 0800-1230 and 1500-1900
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: By Metro, Cavour, Line B. By Bus, number 75, 84 and 117

Beginning in Bogota

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Mardi Gras is a huge celebration, especially in Louisiana, but amidst the beads and floats, some people forget that Mardi Gras is the precursor to the Lenten season for the Catholic religion. Partying and feasting are the norm during the Mardi Gras season, but all that comes to an end on Ash Wednesday, the day after Fat Tuesday, when Catholics begin their abstinence for six weeks.

Having attended Catholic school, I remember being off of school for the Mardi Gras holiday, but the thing I remembered most was attending mass on Ash Wednesday with my school so that we could receive ashes on our foreheads. For the Lenten season, it was as important to us as Good Friday and Easter Sunday.

Recently, I found myself in Bogota. Since I had not been to Colombia in many years, I was excited to revisit some of the places that I had in the past and some new ones. At least one of those places was a church and since it happened to be Ash Wednesday, I was excited to see if any of the traditions in Bogota Catholicism were different than I expected.

Early in the morning, two of my friends and I decided to take an Uber to one of Bogota’s most famous natural landmarks, Monserrate. Rising more than 10,000 feet above the city center, the mountain boasts a 17th century church and shrine devoted to El Señor Caído (“The Fallen Lord”).

I recalled visiting many years ago, but I didn’t remember much except for the photo of a beautiful flower that I took there (that now hangs on my living room wall) and that we had taken a teleférico (cable car) to the top of the mountain.

Arriving at the teleférico station, we discovered that the teleférico was not in operation, only the funicular. So be it! It was either that or a long hike (almost two miles) with a steep grade! Purchasing our tickets, we took our place in line and awaiting our turn to board the railway car to the mountaintop. As we were packed like sardines, it made it easy to make friends and I practiced my Spanish while we enjoyed the scenery during the climb.

Monserrate Station
Monserrate Funicular

At the end of the line, we exited the funicular and made our way along the pathway admiring the beautiful statues of the Stations of the Cross as well as the stunning views of the city below, in between the low clouds and light rain showers. On the adjacent mountain, we spied the 45-foot tall statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe and its adjacent sanctuary, which appeared to be miniscule from our vantage point. Finally, we were face to face with the Basilica Sanctuary of Monserrate which houses the statue of the fallen Lord of Monserrate, representing Jesus falling for the third time on his way to Calvary.

Stations of the Cross Pathway
Monserrate Stations of the Cross
Monserrate Stations of the Cross
Views of Bogota from Monserrate
The Virgin of Guadalupe
Monserrate
Monserrate
Monserrate
Basilica Sanctuary of Monserrate

Pausing for a moment to take a photo with the Bogota sign in front of the basilica, we then entered, realizing that Ash Wednesday mass was taking place. Walking quietly through the church, I made my way through its interior, investigating the chapels and its decorative features. At the rear of the building, in an enclosed room behind the altar, I discovered the Lord of Monserrate. It is said that this miraculous effigy of Christ has hair that grows and that when they try to lower it to the city, its weight increases, becoming an impossible task to achieve. It was difficult to get a good look as the viewing windows were small and many people were lined up, hoping to get a glimpse of the famous icon, but I did notice that hair on the statue appeared to be realistic.

Basilica Sanctuary of Monserrate
Basilica Sanctuary of Monserrate
The Lord of Monserrate

Dating back almost 500 years, the basilica is built on the mountain that was once named Cerro de Las Nieves for its frequent cloudiness. A monastery dedicated to the Virgen of Montserrat was founded in this location and a path was created for pilgrims to climb the hill. The basilica houses a chapel dedicated to this Black Madonna and while I studied it, I thought it to look familiar. After some contemplation, I realized that it was because the origins of the Virgen Morena de Monserrate are of Catalonia, Spain and I had visited the monastery of Montserrat outside of Barcelona many years ago. In fact, it was so familiar to me because I had purchased a tiny replica of this Virgin which sits on my desk in my home office!

The Virgen of Montserrat

After my investigation of the basilica was complete, I wandered around to the rear of the church to where a large craft market is located. Small stalls offered up all sorts of handmade objects, clothing items and religious souvenirs. Hoping to add to my nativity collection, I figured that this would be the best place to find a unique piece. Surprisingly, however, it took quite a bit of asking around to finally find one…and then a lot more searching to find one that met my requirements. Happy at last and package in hand, we decided to catch the funicular so that we could head back down the mountain and catch a ride to the downtown area.

Monserrate Market

The ride to Plaza de Bolivar was only about ten minutes and we were dropped off right in front of the Catedral Primada de Colombia, better known as the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia. A lively square, standing before the basilica, it is filled with both locals and tourists, but its main occupants are pigeons! Lots and lots of pigeons!

Plaza de Bolivar Residents

The square is also surrounded by many historical buildings, including the Palacio de Justicia (Palace of Justice), Palacio Lievano (Palace Lievano), Museo Santa Clara (Santa Clara Museum), Museo Colonial (Colonial Museum) and the National Capitol among others. While we wished that we had had the time to visit everything in this area, it was the cathedral that we were most interested in, however.

Towering over Bolivar Square, the cathedral is the largest church in all of South America. The neoclassical structure has a striking façade, however, its interior, we soon found, was rather lackluster as are many of Columbia’s sanctuaries. We did take the time, however, to inspect the many paintings, sculpture and statues from the 17th and 18th century as well as the side chapels and other architectural features of the church.

Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia
Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia entrance
Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia
Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia
Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia

Noting that mass was not being conducted, we saw a line spanning the length of the cathedral down the central aisle. The three of us, all practicing Catholics, realized that the cathedral’s parishioners were receiving ashes, so we took our places and slowly made our way to the front of the line. What a special opportunity to receive ashes in the Bogota Cathedral on this day!

Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia

Lunchtime had already passed, so deciding to seek out a local restaurant, we headed down the pedestrian friendly Carrera 7. Vendors were plenty and it was fun to check out the some of the unique merchandise and watch the street performers, while seeking out Colombian cuisine. Since it was Ash Wednesday, we had to be mindful of our meat intake, but empanadas were plentiful and it was easy to order those filled with queso and dulce de leche churros for dessert!

Carrera 7
Carrera 7

Our meal complete, we realized that the afternoon was almost halfway finished. We still had a bit of a drive back to our hotel and there was that pesky thing called work that we had to do, but there was one more church at the end of Carrera 7, that I wanted to visit…the Church of San Francisco.

Dating back to the 16th century, this ornate church is the oldest preserved church in Bogota. Built between 1586 and 1611, it originally was part of a complex combined with a monastery that covered two city blocks and had three two-story cloisters. Its exterior once covered in white, was stripped in recent years leaving only the white bell tower to exhibit its original appearance. Today, the only parts of the original temple that survive are the church façade, the tower and the chancel.

The Church of San Francisco

Somewhat intimidating when we approached, with its unassuming façade, graffiti spray painting on the front wall and trash littering the walkway and within the entryway, my colleagues looked to me as though I was a bit mad to bring them here in a city where crime is rampant. Stepping gingerly into the darkened interior, we allowed our eyes to adjust as we gained our bearings. Met with a beautiful red screen separating the inside from the gritty periphery, we peered around up the central aisle toward the high altar. A beautiful wooden roof soared above our heads and a simplistic, double nave design spread around us. The confessionals were designed in an ornate gold and red composition as were many other features, however, the chapels were decorated chiefly in gold and the Stations of the Cross were of a wooden design.

The Church of San Francisco
The Church of San Francisco
The Church of San Francisco
The Church of San Francisco

The overall presentation was extremely dark, both in brightness and composition, and I am sad to say, maybe because of its location in the downtown area, it gave me a very eerie feeling. We did not notice many other visitors and no services for Ash Wednesday were being held. I think when I suggested to bid our adieu, my companions were quite relieved to move along.

 Our day was coming to a close and other considerations were coming into play, including traffic and getting some rest before flying through the night. Scratching my forehead while on the ride home, I realized that my ashes were still prominently displayed. Removing my compact from my handbag and taking a glance, I noted the dark mark semi-hidden under my bangs.

It was the beginning of Lent. Beginning in Bogota.

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Monserrate

  • https://monserrate.co/
  • Address: Carrera 2 Este No. 21-48 Paseo Bolívar, Bogota, Colombia
  • Admissions and Hours: Accessing Monserrate: By foot, trail open every day, except Tuesdays, 0500-1300 to go up and from 0500-1600 to go down. Free of charge. By funicular, Monday to Friday, 0630-1145 and Saturdays, 0630-1630. 23,500 COP (about $5.40 USD) round trip. On Sundays and holidays, 0530-1800. 14,000 COP (about $3.20 USD) round trip. Discounts for Senior citizens (over 62 years). By teleférico, Monday to Saturday, 1200-2200, 23,500 COP (about $5.40 USD) roundtrip. On Sundays, 0530-1800. 14,000 COP (about $3.20 USD) roundtrip. Pets allowed for an additional fee. Basilica Admission: free

Catedral Primada de Colombia

  • Address: Carrera 7 10 80, Bogotá, CO 111711
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily (unverified)
  • Admission: free

Iglesia de San Francisco (Church of San Francisco)

  • Avenida Jimenez de Quesada #7-10, Bogota, Colombia
  • Hours: 0900-1700 (unverified)
  • Admission: free