lighthouse – Snapping The Globe

Around the Hoorn

So often have I visited Amsterdam over the years, that sometimes I need a bit of variety. Looking for a nice little day trip to get me away from the city I stumbled upon an article about the town of Hoorn, a city in the northern part of The Netherlands. The article had stated that Hoorn was one of the “Best Day Trips From Amsterdam”, so I thought, why not? Though it was early Fall, the sun was forecasted to be shining and it was going to be rather warm…the perfect day for some sightseeing!

Taking the train from Amsterdam’s Central Station, I thought I was doing the right thing when I arrived at the station and nabbed an earlier departure. I relaxed in my seat and readied for my hour-long trip. The train’s whistle sounded and the train began its departure from the city, while I began to watch my progress on Google maps. But wait! I was suddenly confused to see that the train heading northwesterly towards Alkmaar. It dawned on me that I made a major mistake by taking the earlier departure…this train was a local, not the express, so there I was, sightseeing in the Netherlands countryside for an extra half hour…a mistake I was sure to not make on my return!

A bit beyond my anticipated arrival, we finally pulled into the Hoorn station and I made my way past canals, flowers and quaint homes, much like I have seen in other parts of the country. I had planned a route that would take me though the center of the city and its churches, to the waterfront and to two of the city’s ancient gates.

The Grote Kerk, of which origins date back to medieval times, was my first stop, but unfortunately, I found it to be under construction and not open to the public. This structure is the third to be built on the site and dates back to 1883. While I was not allowed inside, I was able to admire its tower with its unadorned needle spire and clock from afar. I then continued on to the main square, hoping to visit the Roman Catholic church of Saint Cyriacus and Francis, popularly called the Dome Church.

Geez, were all of the churches undergoing construction???!!! Here, I found the façade of the Dome Church blocked with scaffolding, however, undeterred, I found the entrance and took a peek inside.

The Dome Church, built in 1882, is still in use today and known for its amazing dome, stained glass and renowned artwork. A small chapel greeted me as I entered, however, the interior was partitioned off by a glass wall. While I would have loved to walk through towards the main altar so that I could appreciate the dome, the glass doors were locked. Still, I was grateful that I could see some of its interior from afar.

Upon my departure, I headed toward the main part of town, passing through the Kaasmarkt (main square) and the statue of Jan Pietersz Coen. Though the city’s streets were on the quiet side, I was not surprised to see a few other tourists congregating around this statue and dining in the outdoor restaurants that lined the square.

Making my way towards the waterfront and marina, I found a paved pathway, which was perfect for exercise and just enjoying the beauty of the lake, Markermeer. As I followed the coast towards the small lighthouse at the end of the path, I took in the various artwork that lined the walkway. Designed by various artists, they comprised both modern and rustic elements. My favorite? “The Empty Coat” by Marion Jebbink.

Eventually, my walk ended at the lighthouse, a small, basic wood-beam structure. It was not very picturesque, but it had given my walk a purpose and I had some good views of the Heritage Sailing Center and the Museum of the 20th Century.

Heading back to where I had come, I then skirted the marina on the far side, making my way to the Hoofdtoren.

The Hoofdtoren is a tower named after the nearby jetty Houten Hoofd and was constructed in 1532. While it acted as one of the last defenses of the city and located at the port, it now acts as a popular restaurant. Adjacent to the tower, on the quay wall, is a statue of the Ship Boys of Bontekoe from the book of the same name and it is a nice place to take in the beautiful old boats that fill the harbor.

A little further up the Oude Doelenkade, I crossed the Hoge Bruge, the iron drawbridge that crosses the Oude Haven and headed toward the Oosterkerk. Built in 1616, the church was originally a Roman Catholic temple used by fisherman and boat captains. After the Reformation, it became a Dutch Reformed Church and was known for its beautiful stained-glass windows but also for its organ, built in 1764 by Johann Heinrich Hartmann Batz…the only one that he built in North Holland. Today, decommissioned, the historic structure is a cultural center which hosts activities such as concerts, meetings, weddings and memorials.

Sadly, it wasn’t really my day for churches…I found this one locked up as well…

Finally, crossing the Kleine Oostbrug, I made it to the edge of the city center and the Oosterpoort, the city’s only remaining gate, built in 1578. Located on the Draafsingel, a remnant of the original defensive canal, the Oosterpoort bridge runs under the gate, giving pedestrians and cyclists a pathway across the waterway. While it serves a practical purpose, it definitely gives visitors a look into the city’s history and a place for stunning photos.

As the day was coming to a close, I wound my way back through the city, crossing the pedestrian bridge, Kippebruggetje, enroute to the train station. I had enjoyed my outing in the beautiful little city of Hoorn, but shadows were now creeping in, signaling the day’s end. I wanted to make sure that I caught my train back to Amsterdam.

This time…the right train!

The Island Church

On an island, just across the Grand Canal, stands a bright white Palladian church, Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore.

Many times after visiting St. Mark’s square, I have stood on the banks of the waterway and stared at the church…it seemed untouchable.

Really not understanding the water taxi system, which seemed to be the way to reach this island, I was never comfortable trying to figure out how to get there, possibly making a mistake and ending up somewhere I didn’t plan. I always thought…next time. And next time never came…until I was visiting Venice with my husband one weekend.

Since two brains are better than one, together we deciphered the water taxi schedule and jumped on the one which we thought would get us there. It was a spontaneous decision and yes, it worked out…we made it across to the island!

As we pulled up to the dock, it suddenly dawned on me that we didn’t even know if the church was open to visitors…but at least we had made it there and figured that we could at least walk to the end of the island to see the lighthouse if it wasn’t.

First, we stood in the large plaza before the church and took in the basilica’s beautiful marble façade and the views of the city across the Venetian waters. Standing on the island, which was once called Insula Memmia (after the Memmo family who owned it) the church that once occupied the island, was consecrated to St. George. The San Giorgio Monastery was established in 982, when the entire island was donated for the monastery and it was built next to the church. In 1576, construction of the current church was begun.

Luckily, we found the church open for tourists and we began our explorations of the 16th century basilica.

Constructed by architect Andrea Palladio, the church’s spacious interior contains the usual things you might find in a basilica…chapels, tombs, altar, dome…but it is the artwork that takes center stage…both old and new.

Within the church’s three floors, paintings by Tintoretto were displayed including The Last Supper, The Entombment of Christ and The Fall of Manna as well as a significant masterpiece by Sebastiano Ricci, Madonna Enthroned With Saints. There were some modern pieces by Swiss artist Not Vital, Tintoretto (2020-2 silver boxes) found on the Main Altar, Pope Francesco (2020-2 silver boxes) found in the Main Chorus and the most impressive piece, House to Watch the Sunset (2021), found in the Transept, which is a large pyramid of stairs. This piece was created for the occasion of the 17th International Architecture Biennale.

*House to Watch the Sunset by Not Vital*

*Pope Francesco Silver Boxes by Not Vital in Main Chorus (far bottom right)*

Following the signs to the campanile, we paid our entrance fee and made our way to the top of the tower via the rapid ascent elevator. One of the finest examples of Venetian Gothic architecture, the bell tower was built in the 14th century by Pietro Lombardo and completed by Pietro Bellotto. From this vantage point, we had some of the most breathtaking views of the Venetian lagoon, the city and some of the nearby islands. We were also able to look down upon the cloisters of the monastery as well as gaze upward at the tower’s carillons. While the campanile of San Giorgio Maggiore is a little shorter than the Campanile di San Marco, one reason to make the trip to the island and make your way to the top, is that you don’t have to navigate its height via stairs, as you would at San Marco. I also think that the views from this perspective are more beautiful!

Exiting the church, we walked toward the harbor for an up close and personal look at the Lighthouse of San Giorgio Maggiore. While it is not one of the largest lighthouses I have ever seen, it is quite impressive with its clean masonry.

Finally, we headed back to the vaporetto dock and waited for the next boat. As it was the middle of August, it was extremely hot. The small enclosure, which offers protection from the cold and the rain, is not the best place to wait while the hot summer sun is bearing down. Dashing out back to the plaza in front of the church, we took more pictures and enjoyed the cool breeze coming off of the water until Vaporetto 2 was in sight.

Back to San Marco plaza, we headed, now feeling secure about our boat ride and how to navigate the Vaporetto system. This bit of confidence would serve us well for the rest of our trip as we navigated the city.
Another check on the Venetian bucket list…I no longer have to only wistfully stare at the beautiful church across the canal…I visited it!

There are many churches in the Venetian Islands, but this one is worth the trip!

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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggio

http://www.abbaziasangiorgio.it/
Address: Isola di S. Giorgio Maggiore, 30133, Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: April to October, 0900-1800, daily. November to March, 0830 to 1800.
Admission: Church entrance, free. €6 for tower access
Getting There: Vaporetto (water taxi) 2 or N. You will need two one-way tickets or a 24 hour pass to visit the island. If your visit is about an hour, your 75 minute ticket may still be valid for the return.

Lighthouse, Nighthouse

For a few days, while visiting St. Augustine, I had spied the St. Augustine Lighthouse across the waters of the Matanzas Bay.

Its red, black and white eye-catching color-scheme was hard to miss and I continually vowed that I would make my way over the Bridge of Lions to Anastasia Island for a closer look.

Finally, I patiently waited for a boat to pass through the raised bridge, glancing at the clock to make sure I had enough time to see the lighthouse, its grounds and the museum. Arriving later in the afternoon, I paid my admission in the gift shop and headed out back to the densely grown landscape and followed the path toward the towering beacon.

Built between 1871 and 1874, the lighthouse not only has a colorful body, but a colorful past. Steering numerous vessels to safety along Florida’s coastal waters, the current structure was preceded by another, which eventually fell into ruin. The new tower was put into service with a new first order Fresnel lens and lit for the first time in October 1874 by its first keeper, William Russell. Its lens, handblown in Paris, stood nine feet tall.

For twenty years, the lighthouse was kept by William A. Harn, a Union war hero, who had fought during the Battle of Gettysburg. He and his wife lived in a Victorian style keeper’s house, along with their six daughters. During 1885, the lamp was converted to kerosene and felt the Charleston earthquake in 1886, with its tower swaying violently. It served as a lookout post during World War II and was eventually modernized when plumbing was installed in 1907 and electricity in 1925. Only ten years later, it was the last lighthouse in Florida to be electrified and was fully automated in 1955. Today, the light continues to burn as a private aid for navigation.

Entering the structure and admiring the initial exhibits, I then made my way up the 219 steps to the top of the lighthouse, examining the information on each level and appreciating the effort someone had made to remind me of how many more steps my weary feet had to climb.

Finally, I made it!

At one hundred and sixty-five feet above sea level, I gazed out at the spectacular views of the city of St. Augustine, Anastasia Island and the ocean. It was breezy but a beautiful, clear day and I was amazed with how far down the coast I could see.

Eventually, I made my way down the winding staircase and headed out to see what other exhibits were offered by the Lighthouse and Maritime Museum.

My next stop was at the Keepers’ House. In this building, I learned about life at the Light Station and studied the furnishing and remnants of the families that once resided there. Out front, I admired the memorial to the Crew of the United States Coast Guard E-2C Radar Surveillance Aircraft Number 3501. Other buildings on the premises included a 1941 U.S. Coast Guard barracks and a 1936 garage that was home to a jeep repair facility during World War II. The site is also a National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration weather station. Another stop demonstrated the art of boat making and you can see the First Order Fresnel lens. The best part of the grounds, however, was that you could incorporate sightseeing with a bit of exercise with numerous trails leading through the dense overgrowth that also offered different views of the lighthouse.

Behind the Scenes tours are offered every day, from 1100 to 1500, on the hour, and offer visitors insight into the role that the Light Station has played in St. Augustine’s history and provides a glimpse into the preservation and research work that goes on at the Museum. Thousands of volunteer hours provide what is needed to keep this historic structure up and running and available to visitors and locals alike.

What I thought most fascinating, however, is that the location of the lighthouse has been subject of many ghost stories and supernatural legends. Visitors and volunteers have experienced a great deal of paranormal activity throughout the site and it has attracted the attention of televisions’ Ghost Hunters, My Ghost Story and Most Terrifying Places in America which have featured the lighthouse on their series. For those interested in this type of phenomena, the St. Augustine Lighthouse & Maritime Museum offers tickets for a number of “Dark of the Moon” ghost tours and ghost-themed private events to the public.

As much as I loved my visit in the light of day, I think that the lighthouse during the hours of night might be an extremely interesting and possibly terrifying thing to do!

Who knows who you might meet? The ghosts of past keepers, WWII soldiers or even Floridian explorers? No telling, but in this case, I think you would you have to refer to this Lighthouse as a Nighthouse!

Regardless, this is a must-see in St. Augustine!

St. Augustine Lighthouse and Maritime Museum

https://www.staugustinelighthouse.org/
Address: 100 Red Cox Drive, St. Augustine, Florida 32080-5443
Hours: 0900-1800, daily. Closed Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.
Admission: Adults, $14.95, Seniors (ages 60+), $12.95, Children (ages 12 or under), $12.95

Sun, Sand, Shells and Signals

Any island is a good island…

There is just something about being surrounded by water, feeling the ocean breeze flowing through your hair and the sand between your toes!

Having visited many islands in my life and Florida on many occasions, Sanibel Island had somehow escaped me, although I had spent much time in the southern part of the state. I had always heard that it was the Shelling Capitol of the World and I was curious to see what this meant. Would the shells be so plentiful that they would pave a path along the beaches?

After leaving Key West and driving to the mainland, my husband and I decided that we needed to head to the western part of the state and check it out for ourselves. Finding our way to the Sanibel Inn, we checked in and took a quick walk to the beach. The weather wasn’t cooperating at the moment, so our stay was short, but just long enough to see how many shells were embedded in the sand at the top of the beach near the hotel’s path. Grabbing a few, I took them back to the room and gave them a quick washing. Seeing what I had motivated me to wake up early the next morning for an early scavenging.

As dim daylight filtered through the drawn curtains, my alarm went off. Swinging my legs over the side of the bed and heading to the window, I was a bit dismayed to find that while there was daylight, there was no sunlight. In fact, the sky was dark and a light drizzle was falling.

Well, it might not be tanning weather, but I had brought a hat and a raincoat.

Walking along the narrow beach, I collected shell after shell. Canvasing every square inch, I collected many similar ones with ideas for craft projects swimming around in my head. My bag was full when I headed back inside our hotel and the sun was finally starting to show its face. It was a good day…sand, shells and sun!

Before heading back to the beach for some swimming and tanning, we decided to take a quick drive to see what the twelve mile island had to offer.

Driving from one end to the other, we admired the beautiful homes that lined the shores in Captiva and then eventually found our way to the Sanibel Lighthouse at the eastern end of the island.

The Sanibel Island Lighthouse park encompasses the entire tip of the island. Attracting visitors for the wide array of activities is offers, we found the parking lots packed with vehicles for those visiting the beach, the fishing pier and of course, the lighthouse.

Having just been to the lighthouse in Key West, it was interesting to see the differences between the two. Though visitors are allowed around the historic lighthouse, none are allowed to climb the 127 steps to the top of the 98 foot structure, like we were in Key West.

Much like the Key West structure, the lighthouse was built in the 1800s by settlers of the island. First lit on August 20th, 1884 with kerosene oil, the lighthouse keeper, Dudley Richardson, the keeper from 1884 until 1892, had to get to the top of the lighthouse by walking up an external spiral staircase. Various other keepers followed Richardson and lived on the premises in the structures you can still see today.

In 1949, the job was discontinued and the lighthouse became automated. The lighthouse continued its duty until 1972 when the Coast Guard proposed that it be decommissioned. The mariners in the area and the residents, however, opposed and halted the idea. In 1982, the buildings on the premises were offered to Sanibel residents to live in for free in exchange for its maintenance. In 2004, the Coast Guard gave the lighthouse to the City of Sanibel and it was restored in 2013.

It was nice to walk around the premises, although the museum was not open, and we ventured out to the crowded beach area. We also took a walk on the pier and watched the fisherman and the boats that passed nearby.

Finally, we headed back to our little beach, which had become smaller with the incoming tide, and relaxed while watching the large number of birds that come to enjoy the clear waters.

And of course, I grabbed a few more shells!

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Sanibel Island Lighthouse

https://sanibellighthouse.com/
Address: 110 Periwinkle Way, Sanibel Island, Florida
Hours: 1100-2100, daily (unconfirmed)
Admission: free

The Key to Lighting The Way

Having visited lighthouses in Ghana, Cuba and the Outer Banks of North Carolina, I know what great views can be had from the top.

When I spotted the Key West Lighthouse while we were visiting the Hemingway House from the upper terrace, I knew that a long winding staircase was in my future.

The next morning.

My husband’s future? Not really.

As we walked down the street in the early morning heat, he decided to duck into a small restaurant and enjoy a cold drink. Seeing the island from a bird’s eye view and exerting a great deal of energy first thing in the morning did not seem all that enticing when all he wanted to do was lay on a beach.

Off I went, on my own, anxious to see if there was anything that made this particular lighthouse, well…particular.

As I stood at the bottom of the towering beacon, gazing upward and taking a breath, I entered and began the climb. Eighty-eight steps to the top, I finally made it, occasionally stopping to to catch my breath and peer out of the random porthole.

The views of the island were breathtaking and the waters surrounding the island were glistening in the morning sun. It was enlightening to find the landmarks noted on the signs attached to the rail and as I scanned the horizon, I spotted some of the attractions I was interested in visiting. The best attraction that I spotted, however, was my husband, sitting on the porch of the restaurant drinking his Diet Coke…and was that a piece of Key Lime pie?

At the base of the lighthouse, I stopped for a minute to admire one of the life-like statues that grace the lighthouse and museum’s grounds and then headed over to the lighthouse keeper’s former home, now a museum.

The first lighthouse on the island was built in 1825 near the Southernmost Point. After it was destroyed by a hurricane in 1846, this new lighthouse was constructed inland on Whitehead Street and completed in 1848.

As I moved through the museum, I learned that the first lighthouse keeper was a woman, nearly unheard of during that time period. Many upgrades were completed over the years, including the installation of a Third Order Fresnel Lens which allowed the lens to be seen from a greater distance, the addition of the Keeper’s Quarters and the installation of electricity. Though the lighthouse served Key West and its maritime visitors and passersby for many years, it was decommissioned in 1969.

A large number of photographs lined the walls of the museum and a couple of the rooms were staged to allow a look into how the lighthouse keepers and their families lived. There were many other nautical items and aged lens displayed throughout the gallery.

Though the lighthouse has not been in use for many years, it has played an important part of Key West’s maritime heritage and is now an important part of Key West’s tourism. There are many things to see and do in Key West and this is one of the ones that all visitors should see.

Was it worth the sweltering climb?

Yes, because I got the views and key lime pie in the end!

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Key West Lighthouse and Keeper’s Quarters Museum

https://www.kwahs.org/museums/lighthouse-keepers-quarters/visit
Address: 938 Whitehead Street, Key West, Florida 33040
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 1000-1600
Admission: Adults, $17.00 ($15.40 online), Senior/Local/College ID/Retired Military, $12.00 ($10.30 online), Youth (ages 7-18), $8.00 ($6.30 online), Children (under 7), free, Active Military, free

The Guiding Light

The Outer Banks.

Many of my neighbors and friends vacation here every summer.

Strangely enough, having lived in nearby Virginia for the last twenty years, I had never been down to the Outer Banks of North Carolina!

Friends of ours were vacationing in Corolla, North Carolina and discovered that there was plenty of room in their beach house. Since we were heading down to the southern border of North Carolina for a convention that my husband was attending, we decided to make a detour to the Outer Banks to stay with them for a few days.

After working on my tan for a day and a half, I decided that I needed to venture out and see what this area was comprised of. Driving around a bit, I discovered that there are…beach houses…beach houses…and then…more beach houses perched upon pristine white sand and gazing upon emerald waters. All amazing, but towards the end of the island, in Corolla Village, there is a sight to behold! A lighthouse!

Towering above the flat landscape and keeping watch over the ocean is the Currituck Beach Lighthouse, completed in 1875. Having the largest of seven Fresnel lens sizes, it is characterized as a first order lighthouse and can be seen for 18 nautical miles. The light, illuminated every evening at dusk, has a twenty second flash cycle…on for three seconds, off for seventeen seconds…and is extinguished at dawn. An aid to navigation, it not only warns mariners but also enables them to determine their locations.

To reach the lighthouse, we drove along Ocean Trail, following the signs along the way. There was ample parking near the lighthouse and we were greeted by a volunteer who immediately showed us the best places to capture an amazing photograph of the unusually unpainted lighthouse.

The impeccably manicured lighthouse grounds are also comprised of a couple of other historic structures including a Victorian “stick style” Lighthouse Keeper’s House, a smaller residence (once used for a third keeper and his family, now operating as a Museum Shop), an outhouse and a storage building. The Lighthouse Keeper’s House is currently being restored and not open to the public, however, the Museum Shop is open from Easter through Thanksgiving.

The lighthouse, which had fallen into disrepair, when automation deemed lighthouse keepers unnecessary, has undergone a huge preservation by the Outer Banks Conservationists since 1980. Visitor have been allowed to enter and climb the structure since 1991.

Taking our place in line to await our turn to climb to the top of this towering structure, some members of our group used the time wisely to walk around the grounds and investigate what the gift shop had to offer. In order to keep congestion in the lighthouse to a minimum, only a small number of visitors are allowed inside at one time. So, as visitors leave, others are allowed in.

Finally, our turn had arrived and we began the long, hot, climb to the top…220 twenty steps, stopping only to catch our breath and read the museum-quality displays on each level detailing the lighthouse’s history.

After one last exhausting push, we exited to the top platform into the cool breeze, admiring the expansive views of the Atlantic, the barrier island and the sound. Worth the climb? You bet!

Though access to the lens room is not permitted since the lens (the original) is still a functioning one, it was thrilling to look out over one of the top vacation spots in on the East Coast.

After making our way, slowly down the winding stairs, sadly, it was time to end our visit. Getting our sticker, we were ready to return to the beach…and work on our tans!

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Currituck Beach Lighthouse

http://www.currituckbeachlight.com/
Address: 1101 Corolla Village Road, Corolla, NC 27927
Hours: March 20-December 1, 0900-1700, daily (weather permitting). Between Memorial Day and Labor Day, the lighthouse will remain open on Wednesdays and Thursdays until 2000. Closed Thanksgiving Day
Admission: $10.00 to climb the lighthouse tower, cash or checks only. Children under 8 years climb free with an adult. Admission to the grounds and parking are free. On opening day, March 20, the lighthouse is open for free climbs.
Getting There: At the junction of Highway 158 and Route 12, take Route 12 heading north towards Duck and Corolla. The lighthouse entrance is 20 miles from the junction, on the left, just beyond the Currituck Heritage Park sign. You may also enter at Currituck Heritage Park and ask the guide at the entrance for directions from there.
After your visit to the Currituck Lighthouse, you can check out The Whalehead Club, The Wildlife Center and Historic Village.