Juliet, Oh Juliet…

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

A visit to Verona is not complete until you visit the place immortalized in William Shakespeare’s tragic romance, Romeo and Juliet.

Well…

While tourists flock to the place labeled, “Juliet’s House”, pose with Juliet’s statue and stand on the balcony that they envision her to have used while declaring her love for Romeo, many forget that Romeo and Juliet only ever existed on the pages of some very well known literature.

Shakespeare’s fateful love story, first published in 1597, was preceded by Arthur Brooke’s poem, The Tragicall Historye of Romeus and Juliet, (1562), which in turn was inspired by older Italian writers, including Luigi de Porto and Matteo Bandello, who told the story of Romeo and Giuletta and the feud between their families. But, so enthralled by the literary tales, centuries of readers took to heart the story, some forgetting that it wasn’t actually based on real characters.

Seventy years ago, Antonio Avena, the director of the city’s museums, wanted to capitalize on that misunderstanding. He transformed the 13th century property of the Dal Cappello family into the home of the imaginary Juliet, after the house was purchased by the City of Verona. The idea was to give a physical location to the fictional story and a boost to Verona’s tourist industry. Extensive restoration of the home was eventually completed with a balcony, similar to that described in Shakespeare’s tale, added in the 20th century.

When tourists learned of this location and subsequently, the name of the original owners, the Cappellos, more commonly known as the Cappellettis, the natural progression was to associate that name with the last name of their heroine, Capuleti, leading them to believe that this really had been Juliet’s house. Flocking to the house in droves, they hoped to feel the emotions of Juliet and see the place that she called home.

As a visitor to Verona, while there was so much to see and do, I did make it a point to visit Juliet’s House since it is such a popular attraction. Approaching the courtyard through the entranceway, I was greeted by a large crowd gathered under the balcony and surrounding a statue of Juliet, by sculptor Nereo Costantini. Many people were awaiting their turn to pose with and rub their hand over the statue’s right breast…a gesture which is supposed to bring love and fertility. It is not known why this custom started, but in order to preserve the original, the courtyard statue was moved into the museum for safekeeping and replaced with a copy.

Entrance and courtyard
Courtyard statue of Juliet

Paying my entrance fee, I made my way through the museum space, both upstairs and down. Of course I took my turn on the balcony, posing for a photograph and spotted the original statue of Juliet, protected and well away from prying hands.

Original Statue of Juliet

The house has been restored and appointed much as it would have appeared during the time period in which the Dal Cappellos resided there, though there is no evidence of anything in the house that belonged to the family. There are, however, many references to the Romeo and Juliet story…a bust of William Shakespeare, copies of the story, Renaissance-era costumes and the actual bed used in Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film adaptation of the story. The rest of the furnishings and furniture are all genuine antiques from the 16th and 17th century.

Actual bed used in Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film adaptation of the story.
Overhead view of courtyard

After my tour of the house was complete, I stepped back into the courtyard and noticed the red post box. Tourists used to leave letters tucked into the wall or stuck onto the bricks with chewing gum below the balcony, however, this practice was discouraged and the use of the box promoted. A movie I once viewed, Letters to Juliet, detailed an American tourist who finds an unanswered love letter shoved among the bricks. The story details the search for the intended recipient and the love story that results from it! These letters and those received from the mail do not go unanswered, however. Much like in the movie, a group of volunteers known as Club di Giulietta (the Juliet Club), replies to the more than 10,000 letters received annually, signing the responses, Juliet’s Secretary. Noticing through the small clear window on the front of the box, many letters that had already accumulated, I was glad to see that the tradition still continues.

With a quick glance around the museum’s gift shop, I found myself at the end of my tour. Stepping out of the gift shop with the intent to continue my day in Verona, I stopped and quickly stepped back inside. After a bit of searching, I purchased a pen and some paper, deciding that one day, I will use it to write a love letter to my own “Romeo”.

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Juliet’s House

  • https://www.italy-museum.com/venice/juliet-house
  • Address: Via Cappello, 23, 37121, Verona, Italy
  • Hours: Tuesdays through Sundays, 0900-1800. Mondays, 1330-1800.
  • Admission: Adults, €11,60, Children (ages 8-14), €2,10, Children (under 8 years), €1,00

Marie Antoinette Was Here

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

On the famed Île de la Cité, visitors are drawn to the magnificent stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle and the medieval French Gothic cathedral, Notre Dame. Yet, another historic structure, La Conciergerie, just next door to Sainte-Chapelle, is often overlooked!

But why? Perhaps the average tourist does not realize the significance of the building situated on the Boulevard du Palais, only wanting to check the boxes of the most famous landmarks in the City of Lights. Or, maybe…they simply do not allocate enough time for a building they may think is only a judicial one…not one that dates back to the 6th century and played an important role in the French Revolution.

Located within a fortified complex on the Île de la Cité, in the Seine River, the impressive medieval palace, was built as an historic Gothic dwelling to house the Kings of France, beginning with King Clovis. In 1200, King Philip II then made the Palais de la Cite the royal seat of power, remaining so until the 14th century. At this time, it then took on a judicial role as the Kings of France vacated to settle in at the Louvre and Chateau du Vincennes. As a Palace of Justice, it saw the addition of prison cells and became a royal prison, chancellery and seat of Parliament.

During the French Revolution of 1789 and the period of “The Terror” (1793-1795), the palace held and tried many political prisoners, but it is one that it is most famous for. It was in La Conciergerie that the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette was detained in captivity until her execution, along with 2700 others.

Marie Antoinette’s fate, a guillotined beheading, was similar to most prisoners who spent time at the converted cells within the palace walls. The word “conciergerie” is a French term meaning, “lodging of a housekeeper” as it was looked after by the person left in charge of the palace in the absence of the King and was known as one of the worst prisons of the period. Very few prisoners made it out alive, succumbing to illness, neglect or the blade of the guillotine.

While a majority of La Conciergerie’s square footage is dedicated to courthouses and administrative buildings, a most important historical part is open to the general public and has been transformed into a museum.

Façade of the Palais du Justice

Having purchased a combination ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, we proceeded directly to the entry point on Boulevard du Palais once our tour of the holy chapel was complete. Since La Conciergerie still operates as a government building, we were guided through a security complex so that we and our belongings could be searched and run through metal detectors before being allowed access to the premises.

Since there are no guided tours, we were given a small tablet to aid in our navigation of the premises. As we entered the museum, we first moved through the Grande Salle (Great Hall), a palatial space reminiscent of its royal status as home to the kings and then on to the lower level, La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall). This massive space once served as an enormous dining room for palace workers and accommodated royal banquets and other formal occasions within its impressive 210 foot long area, divided by grand columns and vaulted 28 foot ceilings.

La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall)

The corridor of cells allowed for the understanding of the former prisoners’ living conditions. These dark and narrow cells with no furnishings, were not a place of luxury. While we gazed upon clean floors and felt the neutral climate from modern heating and air conditioning, it was certain that this place was once overrun with rats and other vermin and that prisoners suffered from both heat and cold and slept on the floor. By stark contrast, we were also privy to the small prison warden offices, complete with period furniture and more conveniences as well as the cells outfitted for wealthier prisoners.

Prison cells of La Conciergerie
Warden’s office

A mural that shows the names of some individuals victimized by the Reign of Terror and imprisoned or tried at the Conciergerie. Their names are printed in different colors depending on their punishments, with those executed by guillotine shown in red. Other plaques and historical displays throughout the museum portion of the visit recount the history of the Revolution and the Reign of Terror, led by the infamous Robespierre.

Mural of prisoners’ names
Museum displays and artifacts

Finally, we traversed the stairs to the site of the cell of Marie Antoinette. The queen was held in this cell during the final two months of her life during the Reign of Terror. Here, the sanctuary, Girodins’ Chapel, was originally a place of worship that was then converted to a collective cell during the Revolution. After the Revolution, the “Expiatory Chapel” was built to atone for the queen’s execution and pay tribute to her and other royal figures executed during that time period. Nestled in the back of the chapel, there is a shrine covered with black walls, covered in silver tears. Located at the supposed site of the queen’s bed, a faux marble altar is decorated with a text to honor her memory and the last letter from Marie-Antoinette to her sister-in-law, Madame Elisabeth. Period furnishings show how her cell may have been decorated as in contrast to the less wealthy prisoners; she was given a bed, furniture and servants. A detailed reconstruction of her cell is available for inspection.

Girodins’ Chapel
Girodins’ Chapel (rear)
Expiatory Chapel
Re-creation of Marie Antoinette’s cell

Just outside of Girodins’ Chapel is the garden in the women’s courtyard. Here, female prisoners were allowed to wash their clothes in the fountain, walk around, and eat outside, a nice perk not afforded to the male prisoners.

The Women’s Courtyard

La Conciergerie is not a large museum but an important one and we completed our tour in a short time span. If you find time to traverse the Île de la Cité or visit Notre Dame (when reopened) or Sainte-Chapelle, take an extra hour to tour this interesting piece of Paris’ significant history. It may not have the views of the Eiffel Tower or the artwork of the Louvre, but it will give an understanding of the French Revolution and Marie Antoinette’s last days. While it is not the only site where you might see an actual guillotine blade, it might be the one worth remembering.

Guillotine blade on display at La Conciergerie

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La Conciergerie

  • Address: 2 Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris
  • Hours: 0930-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and May 1.
  • Admission: Adults, €11.50 (US$ 12.60), Under 18 years and EU Citizens (18 – 25 years old), free entry, Persons with reduced mobility and accompanying person, free entry. Free entry with Paris Pass and Paris Museum Pass. Free entry on the first Sunday of the month from November to March. Combined ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, €18.50
  • Getting There: Metro, Cité, line 4. Bus, lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81 and 85.

Adventures in New Mexico Part 5-Keeping Our Eyes on the Skies!

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Travel in New Mexico can be tedious to say the least.

Long stretches of highway with nothing but desert on either side can make one go almost mad! But, a good travel companion and a decent music playlist can alleviate the monotony and when you’ve got something fun to break up the trip, it makes it all the better!

On our fifth day in New Mexico, we were heading south. Our destination was Carlsbad Caverns but there was a place along the way that we just had to visit…Roswell. If you believe that we are not alone in this universe, then Roswell is a must see destination!

Leaving Santa Fe a little after seven allowed us to arrive mid morning with a plan of touring the International UFO Museum and Research Center and having lunch. Having to get to Carlsbad, an additional hour and a half from Roswell, around dinner time was the plan so with a departure from Roswell around 2:30ish, we would have plenty of time to see what else the state’s fifth largest city would offer.

As expected, the three hour drive was a little tedious but we were soon pulling up next to the green Welcome to Roswell sign signaling our arrival at the UFO Capital of the World. Driving down the small town’s main street area, we soon found the museum and something out of this world…almost as if they had expected us, there was a parking space right in front of the UFO museum!

For those not aware of Roswell’s UFO affiliations, it began in 1947, when rancher W.W. “Mack” Brazel discovered metal debris near a giant trench spanning hundreds of feet. After reporting the find, the military descended upon the area, closing it to the public and later stated that the incident was merely the “crashing of a military balloon” despite an Army press release initially stating that a “flying disc” had been recovered. The statement was quickly retracted leading to speculation of a military cover-up.

During the 1970s, the incident was reintroduced to the public when retired lieutenant colonel Jesse Marcel, admitted to Ufologist Stanton Friedman that he believed the debris he retrieved was extraterrestrial. This admission sparked considerable conspiracy theories claiming that multiple spacecraft had crash-landed on the Brazel ranch and their alien occupants were recovered by the military.

Though nothing has ever been proven or disproven, the events have forever marked Roswell as a UFO hotspot and the incident continues to spark interest, especially with the recent admission by the government of their cognizance of aircraft and military interactions with spacecraft. The Roswell incident has been described as “the world’s most famous, most exhaustively investigated and most thoroughly debunked UFO claim.

The museum contains a vast collection of written, audio and visual information relating to the 1947 Roswell Incident and other unexplained phenomena associated with UFO research. Located in a former movie theater, the large open space’s exhibits routed us through the timeline of the incident with models scattered throughout. Our favorite? The giant metal disk fronted with three silver aliens in the center of the museum! There was much to absorb during our visit and we had to be content with relying on the short movie at the onset to acclimate us with the storyline and skim through the remainder of the information, however, we learned enough to make our visit worthwhile.

International UFO Museum and Research Center
Museum research library

After our visit was complete, we decided to keep our primo parking space and walk throughout the small downtown area. Now lunchtime, we were seeking out a place to eat and discovered that everything and every place of business in Roswell seemed to capitalize on the UFO phenomenon including a spaceship themed McDonalds!

Roswell McDonald’s

Little silver aliens greeted us as we made our way inside the disc-shaped restaurant, but standard McDonald’s culinary fare prevailed. I think we had expected Alien Big Macs and Flying Saucer Fries, but the regularly titled sustenance did the trick. While the dark nighttime skies were many hours away, it would have been fun to see this unique McDonald’s lit up with red neon highlighting the spaceship!

After our lunch was complete we continued to investigate the downtown area, reveling in the giant alien next door holding the Dunkin Donuts sign, the alien waving a Domino’s Pizza flag and all of the murals and UFO paraphernalia throughout the city. Everyone was in on the action!

And of course we needed souvenirs! There was definitely no short supply of stores hawking everything from t-shirts to coozies to stickers to…everything you can thing of relating to aliens! While we visited many shops, including Invasion Station, we found some of the best prices at Walmart, no doubt not wanting to be left out of the mix.

Roswell souvenirs
Fun attractions in souvenir stores and on Main Street
Roswell artwork
Roswell Streetlight

We decided to take a peek into the Roswell Visitor’s Center adjacent to Pioneer Square, to obtain any pertinent information that we may had missed. Located across from the beautiful architecture of the Chavez Country Magistrate Court, we learned of the UFO Fest held every summer which includes immersive experiences, live music, local food, photo ops and many other family friendly events throughout the city. The best part of our visit, however, was the photo opportunity the Visitor Center offers. A set with two small aliens and a BELIEVE sign beckons visitors for a portrait, which the staff takes and emails to you for free.

Visitor’s Center
Pioneer Square
Chavez Country Magistrate Court

Finally, we stopped in to Spaceport Roswell, a virtual reality experience. Given VR headsets, we were ushered into a small spaceship-themed room where we donned the headsets and watched a version of the Roswell Incident story unfold in almost-life-like reality. A fun way to end our time in Roswell, we enjoyed the experience and headed back to our parking space readying ourselves the completion of our day’s journey.

Spaceport Roswell VR room

Pulling out of Roswell, I must admit…I almost wished that we would have had the time built into our schedule to spend the night in this fabled town so that we could do a bit of UFO watching. It would have definitely been the perfect place to have a Close Encounter of the First Kind! Casting our eyes above the long highway and seeing nothing but sun and sand, we began our drive to Carlsbad, ready for the next adventure.

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International UFO Museum and Research Center

  • https://www.roswellufomuseum.com/
  • Address: 114 N Main Street, Roswell, New Mexico 88203
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $7.00, Children (ages 5-15), $5.00, Children (under 5), free, Seniors, Military, First Responders, $5.00

McDonalds

Spaceport Roswell

  • https://spaceportroswellnm.com/
  • Address: 121 E. 2nd Street, Roswell, New Mexico 88201
  • Hours: Monday-Thursday, 0900-1700, Friday-Sunday, 0900-1800
  • Admission: Adults, $14.50, Children (ages 12 and under), $9.50, Seniors (65+) and Veterans, $12.50

Adventures in New Mexico Part 3-The Cat’s Meow

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

What’s the saying…when something is very appealing?

It’s the Cat’s Meow!

With all there is experience in New Mexico, I can say that phrase it is most appropriate.

After the long drive to Chaco Canyon, you would thing that we would have wanted to sleep in on the next morning. No way! There was too much to see and do and then, we needed to get to Santa Fe!

Rising early, we packed up, check out and headed to Petroglyph National Monument, one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America. Since there are four different trail systems, we chose the trail that appeared to offer the most petroglyph viewing, Piedras Marcadas Canyon. Parking in the adjacent lot, we grabbed out water and headed out onto the trail.

Petroglyph National Monument, Piedras Marcadas Canyon Trail

The path was easy and flat, marked with guide lines on either side, to keep hikers off of the fragile desert growth. Before long, we found ourselves alongside the rocky hills that arose from the desert floor. It took a few moments to decipher what we were supposed to be looking for but we soon began to spot the images carved into the rocks.

Petroglyph National Monument, Piedras Marcadas Canyon Trail
Petroglyph National Monument, Piedras Marcadas Canyon Trail
Petroglyph National Monument, Piedras Marcadas Canyon Trail

The petroglyphs we spied were created by the ancestors of modern Pueblo people as far back as the year 1300, by carefully removing the desert varnish with hand-held stone tools to expose the lighter color of the basalt’s interior. Centuries of weathering cause the older petroglyphs to oxidize and darken. As we now knew what to look for, it soon became easier to spot the various human figures, animals and geometric designs along the one and a half mile route.

Roadrunner petroglyph and real roadrunner perched on the rocks
Petroglyph National Monument, Piedras Marcadas Canyon Trail
Petroglyph National Monument, Piedras Marcadas Canyon Trail

All in all, we spent about an hour and a half out and about before completing the circuit. Deciding that there was not enough time to do another trail, we moved on.

Next up was Old Town Albuquerque.

The downtown area is comprised of approximately 150 individually owned and operated businesses, situated around the main plaza, the square and birthplace of the city in 1706. This plaza reminded me so much of the ones found in many Latin American countries with numerous people lounging on the benches around the gazebo. With so many shops, restaurants and galleries in the immediate area, we took our time doing a little shopping, grabbing a bite to eat and taking lots of photos.

Albuquerque Old Town Main Plaza
Old Town Shops
Old Town Art and Architecture
Old Town Art and Architecture

One of the places I wanted to see most was San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church, one of the oldest surviving buildings in the city and the only building in Old Town dating back to the Spanish colonial period. The current church replaced the original which collapsed during the winter of 1972. I would imagine the interior exhibited European qualities, but sadly it nor the museum were not open during our visit.

San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church

Keeping an eye on the clock as we were heading to Santa Fe, we found one more place of interest, the Breaking Bad Store ABQ. Although I had no knowledge of the television series, I thought that maybe there would be some interesting souvenirs for my sons. What we discovered, however, was that this was not only a store, but a small museum of sorts dedicated to the series Breaking Bad and its follow up, Better Call Saul. While most of it didn’t resound with me, it meant a lot for my son to see mementos and set props from the show. Recently, when my husband and I finally watched all five seasons of the series, it was fun to pull out the photos and understand what all of it meant. My favorite photo? Me dressed in the Los Pollos Hermanos uniform posed behind the restaurant counter!

Breaking Bad Store ABQ
Breaking Bad Store ABQ

With our time in Albuquerque coming to a close, we headed out to the highway, making our way to Santa Fe.

When my son had mentioned to his friends that we would be visiting New Mexico, the unanimous suggestion was to visit a place with a very strange name…Meow Wolf.

Meow Wolf, a relatively new experience in Santa Fe (established in 2016) is one of three similar interactive experiences located in the United States. Along with the other two, in Denver and Las Vegas, the explorable art encounter beckons visitors to explore rooms of immersive art. Santa Fe’s version, entitled House of Eternal Return offers 70 rooms which I could only describe as a mix between an art exhibit, escape room, a fun house and a maze.

As we parked, we glimpsed what we thought we might experience with its giant metal spider, robot and of course, wolf, in the parking lot! Although we had not purchased tickets prior to our arrival, we learned that we were lucky since it was a weekday that we were able to gain entry, not usual on busy weekends.

Meow Wolf Santa Fe

We began our explorations in the front part of the House, trying to read every piece of paper and attempting to decipher clues. There was a strangely dressed man standing in the stairway talking about missing children and we deduced that children from the storyline were missing. We also heard other speaking about finding hamsters. We did discover a few hidden in various places, but then we never quite understood what to do with this information.

The House
The House
The House, bathroom
Hidden hamsters

Finally, we just decided to have fun and explore all the nooks and crannies. Once we relaxed about the whole affair, it was a great deal of fun just enjoying the unique and unusual artistry.

It was great fun to discover hidden passageways in refrigerators, fireplaces closets and clothes dryers. After exploring both floors of the house, we discovered in the living room a fish tank on a shelf and then a tunnel through the fireplace which led to a life size fish tank which we could walk through! This led to other parts of the exhibit where we encountered a giant neon dinosaur skeleton whose bones made music when you hit upon them, a forest with giant mushrooms and creatures that appeared to be out of the book Where the Wild Things Are, the crazy clown room decorated with recycled bottle caps, cans, compact discs and clown videos, a Chinatown alleyway and the “black and white room” complete with a monster under the sink! There was abstract art and abstract rooms, interactive games hidden away in dark corners and an EDM music room. There was a band playing in the back and walkways overlooking their stage. Everything was dark and bright at the same time and neon and black lighting was everywhere!

Hidden passage
Giant fish tank
Crazy clown room
Live band, top middle
Black and white room
EDM music room

It is one of the hardest things to explain and one of the most unique places I have ever visited! I will definitely have to visit the ones in Denver and Las Vegas which are differently themed.

We realized that if this was our introduction to Santa Fe, we were in for a treat! Meow Wolf was definitely the Cat’s Meow or maybe you could say, the “Wolf’s Meow”!

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Petroglyph National Monument

  • https://www.nps.gov/petr/index.htm
  • Address: Visitor’s Center, 6510 Western Trail, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Boca Negra Canyon, Atrisco Drive, NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120, Rinconada Canyon, 7601 St. Josephs Avenue, Albuquerque, NM 87120, 87114 Unnamed Cul de Sac, Albuquerque, NM 87120, Piedras Marcadas,
  • Address: Visitor’s Center, 6510 Western Trail, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Boca Negra Canyon, Atrisco Drive, NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Rinconada Canyon, 7601 St. Josephs Avenue, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Piedras Marcadas Canyon, 87114 Unnamed Cul de Sac, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Volcanoes Day Use Area, Western Trail NW, Albuquerque, NM 87120.
  • Hours: Boca Negra Canyon, 0830-1630. Rinconada Canyon 0800-1700. Piedras Marcadas Canyon, Sunrise to Sunset. Volcanoes Day Use Area, 0900-1700.
  • Admission: free

Old Town Albuquerque

  • https://www.albuquerqueoldtown.com/
  • Address: Old Town Road NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104
  • Hours: Most businesses open Monday-Saturday, 1000-2000, Sunday, 1100-1900. Most restaurants seat until 2100.
  • Admission: free

San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church

  • https://sanfelipedeneri.org/
  • Address: 2005 North Plaza NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104
  • Hours: 0900-1600, daily (unverified). Gift shop and museum, open from 1000-1630. Museum may not be open due to lack of docents.
  • Admission: free

The Breaking Bad Store ABQ

  • https://www.breakingbadstoreabq.com/
  • Address: 2047 South Plaza Street Northwest, Albuquerque, NM 87104
  • Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, New Years Day.
  • Admission: free

Meow Wolf Santa Fe

  • https://meowwolf.com/visit/santa-fe
  • Address: 1352 Rufina Circle, Santa Fe, NM 87507
  • Hours: Sunday, Monday and Thursday, 100-2000, Friday and Saturday, 1000-2200. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
  • Admission: Adults (ages 14 and up), $35, Children (ages 4-13), $20, Children (under 3), free, Seniors (ages 65 and up), $25, Military, $25.

Canal Life

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Despite the day’s drizzly beginnings, it was shaping up to be much improved. Drawing back the curtains, I noticed that the clouds were parting and the sun attempting to make its presence known. By the time I had dressed and made it outside, I discovered the perfect fall day for a bike ride in Amsterdam.

Jumping on one of my hotel’s complimentary bikes, I headed toward the river IJ. The ferry quickly carried me over to the train station and there, I decided ride adjacent to one of the less trafficked canals that ring the city, the Prinsengracht. There was a museum in that canal that I wanted to visit.

Yes, in the canal…the Houseboat Museum.

Visitors to Amsterdam can spot hundreds of houseboats lining each of the canals throughout the city.

Some are basic. Some are unique. Some are small and others are large.

Regardless of where they are located and what they look like, the most common question in most people’s minds is “what is it like to live in one”?

The Woonbootmuseum, the only houseboat museum in the world, is the perfect place to have this burning question answered.

Over 2,900 houseboats line the Amsterdam canals. Many are traditional iron freighter ships with holds converted into houseboats and others more modern concrete-based rectangular houseboats.

With its origins as a barge, built in 1914, this vessel was tasked with transporting timber, sand, gravel and coal until the 1960s. Its conversion was conducted in 1967 to include a skipper’s quarters with sleeping bunks, living room, kitchen and bathroom and renamed the Hendrika Maria. With approximately 262 square feet of living space, its inhabitants enjoyed canal life until 1997.

Hendrika Maria Exterior

Crossing the gangplank, I descended the narrow stairway into the living space. The first part of the houseboat I encountered was the sleeping quarters tucked away at the rear of the boat. A few years ago, we had taken a trip on a sailboat in the Caribbean and these small berths reminded me of our nightly quarters. A small stove and kitchen area completed the space.

Moving through the curtain, I encountered the agent behind a desk and purchased my entry ticket. A descriptive pamphlet was handed over to guide me through the various areas of the converted freighter’s hold.

Moving into the next room, I found myself in a very spacious living/dining area. It was surprising how large the area was and reminded me that this houseboat is equal in size of the average Amsterdam apartment…believe me, I have been to my friend’s apartment where four people reside!

Living/Dining Area
Living/Dining Area

Finally, heading to the rear compartment where the small bathroom is also located, I found another small sleeping quarter with an exhibit of houseboat models and an illustrated history of the boat. Crouching behind the sleeping berths wall, I found a viewing area into the bow with another sleeping berth and a television screen showing a film giving insight into the houseboat lifestyle. If you think that Amsterdam houseboat living is for you, keep in mind that in addition to insurance and maintenance charges being quite significant, there are no leases to be had in any of the city’s canals.

Sleeping Quarters
Bow and Media Area
Bathroom

Since the space is a limited one, capacity is limited and guests sometimes encounter a wait to enter the boat. On this day, I was the only visitor and had the museum to myself! It was a most pleasing experience to envision how I would spend my days if I lived here since I was the only one moving through the boat!

Finishing my self-guided tour, I climbed the small stairway to the top of the boat and made my way back over the gangplank to where my bike was locked up next to the canal. Contemplating my next destination if I had been a first time tourist, it would have been quite convenient to walk the five minutes to the Anne Frank House or to the nearby Westerkerk church. Since I had visited these attraction in the past, however, I headed back the way I had come toward the train station. I had another destination in mind.

Parking my bike in the bike garage in front of the train station, I walked over the canal and into the Lover’s Canal Cruise office. With the weather cooperating, I decided that I would keep the theme of the day…Canal Life!

Purchasing a ticket for a departure at 5:30 p.m., I waited patiently in the adjacent café area until boarding time. Being one of the first passengers to board, I headed towards the rear of the long boat and took my seat, plugging in a set of headphones into one of the ports which offered information on the sites we would be seeing in nineteen different languages.

Soon on our way, we cruised into the river IJ, which I had previously crossed, passing the train station, the ferries and river cruise boats docked for the day. Back into the Oosterdoksdoorgang canal, we made our way past the NEMO Science and the Amsterdam Maritime History Museums.

River Ij
Nemo Museum

Motoring along, as expected, we encountered a multitude of houseboats docked along the canals. With a much better perspective, I know could see the differences between the types of these water homes.

Amsterdam Houseboats
Amsterdam Houseboats
Amsterdam Houseboats
Amsterdam Houseboats
Amsterdam Houseboats

Passing under and near many of Amsterdam’s bridges, bikes lining their lengths, we also sailed by the Montelbaanstoren, the 16th century defensive tower which was once part of the city walls and other identifiable structures throughout the city; the floating Sea Palace Chinese restaurant, the Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge), the Hermitage Museum, Westerkerk church and my favorite, the dancing houses on the Amstel river.

Bridges of Amsterdam
Bridges of Amsterdam
Bridges of Amsterdam

These houses that lean…to the left, to the right, and forward…look like an architectural hazard to outsiders, but are normal to those residents of the city. Though I am not sure that if I had stood immediately in front of the houses on the street, I would have noticed how skewed they were, but from the water, it was extremely conspicuous.

The Dancing Houses

If you are interested in a little history on these and many dancing houses in Amsterdam, here goes. Since all houses in the city are built on piles, which are drilled deep into the wet soil to keep them from sinking, the age and quality of the wooden piles cause the buildings to sink into the ground unevenly. Many of the houses along the canals lean on each other for extra stability, however, problems arise when houses are renovated. In other cases, you may notice that some houses lean forward, toward the street…not an accident…for centuries it was the custom to build houses leaning forward. For the residents who reside in these crooked homes, it must be quite the feat to walk around on a slanted floor when you’ve had a few drinks!

Amsterdam Sights and Architecture

It was a beautiful afternoon and we encountered many other cruise boats making their way through the city’s canals. It was a perfect way to enjoy the early autumn weather while seeing so much of the city. While it was not my first canal cruise, it was one that I enjoyed the most as it was not planned, not crowded and I had one of the best seats on the boat!

When you find yourself in the “Venice of the North”, take a canal cruise to get acquainted with the city. Whether it be a city sightseeing tour during the day or night, a dinner cruise or one of the holiday Light Festival cruises, its the perfect way to see the sights!

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The Houseboat Museum (Woonbootmuseum)

  • https://houseboatmuseum.nl/
  • Address: Prinsengracht 296 K, 1016 HW Amsterdam
  • Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Closed Mondays.
  • Admission: Adults, €4,50, Children (ages 5-15), €3,50, Children (under 5 years), free

Lovers Canal Cruises

  • https://www.lovers.nl/en/
  • Address: Prinsengracht 2571 Amsterdam, Drenthe The Netherlands
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: Cruise prices vary, 15-80. Check website for specific cruise prices.

Metro de Chateau

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At one end of the Paris metro yellow line is La Defense, the other, Chateau de Vincennes.  

The location of my work hotel is somewhere in between and I’ve visited La Defense’s Christmas market a few years ago, but never gave much thought to the other end of the line.  La Defense is a business district, I just naturally assumed Chateau de Vincennes metro stop was named after the area, not an actual Château.  In actuality, I was partly correct.  

The area of Vincennes was formed in the late 18th century, when two village communities located north of the chateau joined together…the hamlet of La Pissotte, which was built towards the end of the 13th century and Basse-Coura subdivision created under Charles V originally used to house royal servants. In 1829, the territory was enlarged at the expense of Fontenay-sous-Bois and Montreuil.  Vincennes now covers an area of some 192 hectares and has almost 50,000 inhabitants.  It is one of the most densely populated towns in France. 

But, there really is a chateau in Vincennes!  

Setting out shortly after my arrival into Paris, I was excited at the prospect of seeing this chateau in Vincennes that this metro stop was named for. 

Exiting the metro, I discovered massive walls and an imposing gate a short distance away on the Avenue de Paris.  Complete with a draw bridge spanning a moat surrounding the premises, I was reminded of its long history and its need for defense during tumultuous times. 

Chateau de Vincennes entrance

Chateau de Vincennes entrance and moat

Built between 1361 and 1369, this preferred residence of the French Kings was known for its keep and for its beautiful chapel, Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes, although prior monarchs used the area during the century before construction commenced.

Passing through the gates, I glanced up at the bell tower and clock, the very first public clock in France (although now a reproduction with its original kept in Saint Chappelle).  A little further, I walked into a large compound with buildings lining the walkway to both my left and right, and here, I discovered the ticket office.  Although I had purchased my ticket prior to my arrival, I stopped inside to ensure that everything was in order and to confirm what my entry fee covered. Handed a map, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to visit not only the Keep and the Chapel, but also the Queen’s Pavilion. 

Chateau de Vincennes clock tower
Chateau de Vincennes inner courtyards and buildings
Chateau de Vincennes inner courtyards and buildings

The Keep, or “donjon” seemed to be the perfect place to start my explorations.  This fortified central tower, the tallest in Europe at the time, was built during the 14th century.  Initiated by King Philippe VI in 1340, later his son Jean II of France and subsequently, his son, the future Charles V, the fortress with high walls, towers and a keep were completed by 1370. Charles V moved into the Keep with some construction still underway. As I moved through the massive structure with its 52 meter tower in the center, I read through the signage describing each of the areas’ usage.  

The Keep

The ground floor of the Keep has wells and the remains of a large fireplace, probably originally used by royal servants. It was largely rebuilt when the building was used as a prison. 

The Keep entrance
The Keep
The Keep
The Keep
The Keep
View of Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes and King and Queen Pavilions from the Keep

The first floor contained the meeting hall of the Council of the King, and was also used when needed for bedchambers of the Queen and others close to the King. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, some of which are still in place. 

The second floor was occupied by the bedchamber of the King, and has decorations added by Charles V of France  when he rebuilt it from 1367–38. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, and the vaulted ceiling was decorated with sculpted keystones and consoles and painted flour-de-Lys and the coat-of-arms of the King, against a blue background, still visible. A small oratory is set into the north wall, though its wood paneling has disappeared.

The third floor has the same plan as the second, but lacks the ornate decoration of the royal floor. It was probably used by important guests of the King.

The fourth, fifth and sixth floors, which lack ornament, were probably used by domestic servants or soldiers. They were also used to store munitions for the weapons placed at the windows of the fourth floor and on the terraces of tower of latrines and the main body of the keep. The sixth floor has no windows and a ceiling only two meters high, and a single entrance. Beginning in 1752, the upper floors were used primarily as prison cells. The bars in the windows and doors date from that period. The extensive and elaborate graffiti still found on the walls on the upper floors also dates from the 17th and 18th century.

After Charles death, it remained a place of refuge for future kings, eventually converting to a prison and finally, a military installment.  In fact, the most interesting portions of the keep were one of the areas used for the restraint of prisoners.  In this area, I spotted many signatures etched onto the walls and the remains of murals painted on the walls by these prisoners, the most beautiful being those completed by Monseigneur Boulogne, confessor of Napoleon I, imprisoned on his orders.  This room was also used to later keep the Comte de Mirabeau, who spent three years imprisoned at Vincennes where he wrote about the abuses of the royal warrant.  Other famous prisoners included Denis Diderot (1713-1784), François-Vincent Raspail (1794-1878), the Marquis de Sade (1777-1784).

Prisoners’ grafitti
Prisoners’ grafitti
Prisoners’ grafitti

My tour of the Keep complete, I headed across to Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes. Having been to the beautiful chapel of Sainte Chapelle in Paris’ Ile de Cite, I was curious to see how they would compare.

Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes

Conceived by Charles V as his dream to add an exceptional religious monument to the fortress and a place to house the relics of the Passion of Christ, he did not live to see its culmination. With construction beginning in 1379, it still remained unfinished in the 16th century. King Francois I, a frequent resident, resolved to bring it to its completion in 1520, to celebrate the birth of his son and heir. Upon his death, Henry II of France resumed construction, completing the vaults and overseeing the addition of woodwork and stained glass with its completion in 1552.

Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes exterior

While both are built in the Gothic style and organized in the same manner, this one seemed much more narrow and more brightly lit. Devoid of seating or ornamentation aside from the windows and the altar, it was a clear view of the sole internal space, especially from the rear choir loft, in contrast to Sainte Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite having two levels, upper for the King and his family and the lower for ordinary members of the court.

Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes
Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes
Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes
Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes
Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes

The sacristy, a separate two story structure, is attached to the chapel at the oratory of the King on the north side of the chapel and a stunning funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien can be found inside as well.

Funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien

Exiting the Chapel I headed through the arches into the courtyard of the Pavilions of the King and Queen. A beautiful, open and grassy space each building, the King’s Pavilion on the southwest corner and the Queen’s opposite.

View of the King and Queen Pavilion Courtyard
King and Queen Pavilion Courtyard

The King’s Pavilion was constructed between 1610 and 1617 by Louis XVIII and modified over the years to enlarge the structure. Consisting of three stories with five rooms for the King, his apartment looked our west over the gardens. Today, parts of the King’s Pavilion ceiling can be found in the Egyptian collection of the Louvre Museum.

The Queen’s Pavilion was construction many years later, from 1658 to 1660 and followed the same basic design as the King’s structure, however, instead of a garden view, it overlooked the courtyard. As the Germans stored explosives in the two pavilions and these caught fire after an explosion, the building fell in to disrepair.

King’s Pavilion, upper middle. Queen’s Pavilion, middle

On this visit, I was able to visit the King’s Pavilion, which houses an exhibition of the Fortresses of the Emperor depicting Napoleon and his military engineers. Personal possessions, artillery, portraits, models and other objects were found on the second floor and although the signage was in French, it was nice to see part of the interior of the building.

Napoleon exhibit, King’s Pavilion
Napoleon exhibit, King’s Pavilion
Napoleon exhibit, King’s Pavilion

As the day was winding to a close and the temperature started to drop, I decided that my exploration of Chateau de Vincennes was at its end. Making my way back to the entrance gate, I headed back to the metro with the same name…

Exiting Chateau de Vincennes

Chateau de Vincennes.

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Chateau de Vincennes

The Golden House

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

It is well documented that most Roman emperors enjoyed flaunting their wealth, however, there was one that took his lavish lifestyle in the Eternal City to another realm.

Nero.

Deciding that he would build a palace to outdo all palaces, the Domus Aurea, he set forth with these plans in 64AD, after a major fire had swept through the city, destroying much of the area of the Oppian Hill.  With this part of the city leveled, making room for his palatial plans, this led to speculation that Nero himself had started the fire. 

Not to be deterred by rumors, he set forth with the construction of a complex, located near the Forum. The massive compound sat on 80 hectares, contained 150 rooms, gardens, a lake, fields, vineyards, pasture and forests with domesticated and wild animals.  The rooms were lavishly decorated with gold, gems, precious marble and mother of Pearl, unlike any other built during the era. Records indicate that the house shone like gold with the light reflecting on these lavish decorations…hence the nickname, Golden House. And in the case that anyone’s memory lapsed and forgot who they were visiting, a 35-meter-high statue of Nero was situated at the entrance!

Some time ago, I had read about the Domus Aurea.  Not open to the public during this timeframe, I had marked it as a point of interest on my Google map and filed it away hopefully for a future visit.  Last spring, while perusing the internet, I came across an article advertising tours of the Domus Aurea. Tickets were limited and groups were small, so I excitedly booked a time slot in the afternoon.  

Upon my arrival, what I first notice was that I was entering the gates of not only the Domus Aurea, but a park.  A park filled with people sitting on benches, children skateboarding on the paved walkways and lovers relaxing on the grass in the shade of the massive trees.  Deciding that it would be nice to walk through after my tour was complete, I continued to follow my directions, soon discovering a gate marked Domus Aurea, only to discover that it was not my intended destination.  


Parco del Colle Oppio and entrance to Domus Aurea grounds

Virtual reality tours, which show the true nature of how Nero lived, are conducted on the weekends, when restoration work is not being conducted and embark from this location, however, being a weekday, I was directed to another building a little further. 

Gate for weekend tours

After checking in, more people arrived and we were ushered into the building’s atrium with suggestions that we don outerwear for the cooler temperatures inside.  

Main entrance and walkway to Domus Aurea underground

Not sure what exactly I was there to experience on my tour, I followed the guide down a long walkway, descending perhaps fifty feet or more to where the remains of Nero’s complex now lies, having been plundered, buried, and built upon by his successors. 

Arriving in an impressively excavated, dimly lit, octagonal room, I marveled at the spotlighted statue occupying the center of the room and the astrological symbols being projected onto the vaulted ceiling.  Indeed, it was much cooler, and I zipped up my jacket as I made my way around the rotunda, examining the adjacent rooms. 

Our guide explained that this was the first time that these rooms have been made available as part of a temporary exhibition. This exhibition conjures up the Domus Aurea’s rediscovery by torchlight, in the 15th century, by those, including the painter Raphael, inspiring his future works.

I admired the best-preserved frescoes of the Domus Aurea in the Room of Achilles on Skyros which portrays a scene inspired by the story of Troy.  Other rooms contained projections of the grotesques (a style of decorative painting or sculpture consisting of the interweaving of human and animal forms with flowers and foliage), architectural depictions of the palace designs and statues, including a reproduction of the Laocoon.  

Left photo, reproduction of the Laocoon

We were also allowed into the dilapidated (due to weather and dampness) Room of Hector and Andromache, the first room to be discovered in the complex. The room was long and extremely tall; however, some remnants of its original artistry can still be detected.

Top right, Room of Achilles

Having examined all aspects of this beautifully restored piece of the palace, I made my way back up the inclined walkway and out into the warm, late afternoon sunshine.  

Winding around the back of the building I had just exited, I followed the pathways, through the Parco del Colle Oppio, searching for the Baths of Trajan, which had been built on top of Nero’s palace, about 40 to 50 years later. 

Parco del Colle Oppio

After Nero’s suicide in 68 A.D., his successors, Ortho and possibly Titus, added to the completion of the Domus Aurea, but later successors sought to erase Nero’s memory. Parts of the palace and grounds were filled with earth and built over, the Baths of Titus, the Flavian Amphitheater, the Temple of Venus and Roma and the Baths of Trajan were all built on the site.

The Baths of Trajan, built by architect, Apollo of Damascus, were created for the emperor Trajan and as a recreational and social center for both male and female Roman citizens in the early 5th century. There were the first “great baths” in Rome and at the time, the largest existing thermal building in the world. Not in use for very long, it was deserted and left for ruin.

Baths of Trajan

The remains of these ruins are scattered through the northwest side of the Parco del Colle Oppio…amidst area’s playgrounds. Children were running throughout the area with parents watching, exercising or visiting with others. It was interesting to see these citizens using these hallowed grounds as a recreational site, which it once was in a different capacity, all the while knowing what lies beneath them and around them…the Domus Aurea.

Baths of Trajan and middle right, Cisterna delle Sette Sale (across from rear entrance)
Baths of Trajan
Rear entrance along Via delle Terme di Traiano
Front entrance, right across from Colosseum

What an interesting way to grow up among some of Rome’s most historical sites!

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Domus Aurea

Baths of Trajan

  • Address: Parco del Colle Oppio, Via della Domus Aurea, 1 00184 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours: Dawn to dusk, daily.
  • Admission: free

The Island Church

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On an island, just across the Grand Canal, stands a bright white Palladian church, Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore.

Many times after visiting St. Mark’s square, I have stood on the banks of the waterway and stared at the church…it seemed untouchable.

Really not understanding the water taxi system, which seemed to be the way to reach this island, I was never comfortable trying to figure out how to get there, possibly making a mistake and ending up somewhere I didn’t plan. I always thought…next time. And next time never came…until I was visiting Venice with my husband one weekend.

Since two brains are better than one, together we deciphered the water taxi schedule and jumped on the one which we thought would get us there. It was a spontaneous decision and yes, it worked out…we made it across to the island!

As we pulled up to the dock, it suddenly dawned on me that we didn’t even know if the church was open to visitors…but at least we had made it there and figured that we could at least walk to the end of the island to see the lighthouse if it wasn’t.

First, we stood in the large plaza before the church and took in the basilica’s beautiful marble façade and the views of the city across the Venetian waters. Standing on the island, which was once called Insula Memmia (after the Memmo family who owned it) the church that once occupied the island, was consecrated to St. George. The San Giorgio Monastery was established in 982, when the entire island was donated for the monastery and it was built next to the church. In 1576, construction of the current church was begun.

Luckily, we found the church open for tourists and we began our explorations of the 16th century basilica.

Constructed by architect Andrea Palladio, the church’s spacious interior contains the usual things you might find in a basilica…chapels, tombs, altar, dome…but it is the artwork that takes center stage…both old and new.

Main Chorus

Within the church’s three floors, paintings by Tintoretto were displayed including The Last Supper, The Entombment of Christ and The Fall of Manna as well as a significant masterpiece by Sebastiano Ricci, Madonna Enthroned With Saints. There were some modern pieces by Swiss artist Not Vital, Tintoretto (2020-2 silver boxes) found on the Main Altar, Pope Francesco (2020-2 silver boxes) found in the Main Chorus and the most impressive piece, House to Watch the Sunset (2021), found in the Transept, which is a large pyramid of stairs. This piece was created for the occasion of the 17th International Architecture Biennale.

House to Watch the Sunset by Not Vital
Pope Francesco Silver Boxes by Not Vital in Main Chorus (far bottom right)

Following the signs to the campanile, we paid our entrance fee and made our way to the top of the tower via the rapid ascent elevator. One of the finest examples of Venetian Gothic architecture, the bell tower was built in the 14th century by Pietro Lombardo and completed by Pietro Bellotto. From this vantage point, we had some of the most breathtaking views of the Venetian lagoon, the city and some of the nearby islands. We were also able to look down upon the cloisters of the monastery as well as gaze upward at the tower’s carillons. While the campanile of San Giorgio Maggiore is a little shorter than the Campanile di San Marco, one reason to make the trip to the island and make your way to the top, is that you don’t have to navigate its height via stairs, as you would at San Marco. I also think that the views from this perspective are more beautiful!

Campanile
Views from the Campanile
Bells in the bell tower

Exiting the church, we walked toward the harbor for an up close and personal look at the Lighthouse of San Giorgio Maggiore. While it is not one of the largest lighthouses I have ever seen, it is quite impressive with its clean masonry.

Lighthouse of San Giorgio Maggiore

Finally, we headed back to the vaporetto dock and waited for the next boat. As it was the middle of August, it was extremely hot. The small enclosure, which offers protection from the cold and the rain, is not the best place to wait while the hot summer sun is bearing down. Dashing out back to the plaza in front of the church, we took more pictures and enjoyed the cool breeze coming off of the water until Vaporetto 2 was in sight.

Water taxi dock
Church of San Giorgio Maggiore

Back to San Marco plaza, we headed, now feeling secure about our boat ride and how to navigate the Vaporetto system. This bit of confidence would serve us well for the rest of our trip as we navigated the city.
Another check on the Venetian bucket list…I no longer have to only wistfully stare at the beautiful church across the canal…I visited it!

There are many churches in the Venetian Islands, but this one is worth the trip!

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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggio

  • http://www.abbaziasangiorgio.it/
  • Address: Isola di S. Giorgio Maggiore, 30133, Venezia VE, Italy
  • Hours: April to October, 0900-1800, daily. November to March, 0830 to 1800.
  • Admission: Church entrance, free. €6 for tower access
  • Getting There: Vaporetto (water taxi) 2 or N. You will need two one-way tickets or a 24 hour pass to visit the island. If your visit is about an hour, your 75 minute ticket may still be valid for the return.

No…The Other One

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One of the most famous churches can be found in Barcelona.

The Sagrada Familia.

So when I was asked what I was going to do on my layover in Barcelona and I said, “Go to the cathedral,” everyone naturally assumed I was headed to the monumental landmark.

“Oh, the Sagrada Familia,” they said.

“No, the cathedral,” I replied watching the perplexed look cross their faces.

“Yes, the Sagrada Familia, the famous church,” they countered.

“No, the other one. The cathedral.” (And actually, the Sagrada Familia is a basilica and the Barcelona Cathedral, is well…a cathedral, but I can’t fault everyone for not knowing the difference).

Having always been fascinated by the architecture in the Gothic Quarter, it was a wonder that I had never visited the cathedral, one of the most visible and outstanding examples of the architectural style. Visiting Barcelona a short time after Covid protocols were put in place, I had learned that reservations were required for entry and of course, I didn’t have one on that trip. This time, I was prepared. I had purchased my timed entry before leaving New York, allowing for a short nap before heading to the Gothic Quarter.

The Barcelona Cathedral was constructed from the thirteenth to fifteen centuries (with the bulk of the work done within the fourteenth) on the foundations of a primitive basilica that was later named a cathedral. Because of the span of time taken for the completion, the distinct periods are characterized throughout its layout. The façade, which you see today, was initiated with the church’s construction, however, was not built until 1897 until 1890 and was completed in 1913.

Also known as The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, it was named for the patron saint of Barcelona, whose remains are entombed in the cathedral’s crypt, however, this is not the only thing to see in the spectacular place of worship.

Making my entrance, I had planned a visit of approximately one and a half hours plus some additional time for the Diocesan Museum. What I did not realize was how poorly I had planned. Moving throughout the cathedral, passing my eyes over its vast interior, it dawned on me that it would take me twice that time…maybe more.

First moving through the cathedral floor, I was entranced by the ornate side chapels and the vaulted ceiling, but I quickly reached the elevators leading to the roof within the Chapel of the Innocent Saints. Spotting a short line, I decided to take advantage of the limited wait and head to the cathedral’s highest point. After a short ride, I exited the elevator and made my way up stairways and across catwalks, spying the intricacies of the cathedral’s roof, bell towers, lateral pinnacles, the cimborio crowned by the Holy Cross as well as phenomenal views of the city. Under the azure sky of the winter afternoon, I couldn’t imagine a better place to be to take in the day!

Chapel of Saint Lucia
Chapel of Saint Lucia
Chapels of the Cathedral
Chapels of the Cathedral
Chapels of the Cathedral
Chapels of the Cathedral
Chapels of the Cathedral
Chapels of the Cathedral
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop

Heading down back into the cathedral, I continued my explorations, finding myself passing through the external doors of the Pieta and of Saint Eulalia, I discovered the cloister…a place of pure peace, similar, in some ways, to other cloisters I have visited…yet it offered up a surprise. The rectangular space was made up of four galleries, separated by sculpted pillars, showing scenes from the Old Testament and from a legend about the Holy Cross. Other scenes from the New Testament were spotted on the keystones. There were distinct chapels in each gallery, but it was the center of the cloister that commanded my attention. Filled with a garden of palm trees, magnolias and orange trees, there was a vast pond centered with a fountain, dating back to the mid-15th century. Still, while the pond and the beautiful greenery took my breath away, it was the residents of this cloister that made me laugh with delight. No, not nuns…geese! The large pond is the home for thirteen white geese, who despite their natural inclination to honk (and holler), stay fairly silent, almost as if they have taken a vow of silence!

The Cloister
The Cloister
The Cloister
The Cloister
The Cloister
The Cloister
The Cloister Residents
The Cloister
The Cloister

Making my way back into the main part of the church, I continued my explorations of the side chapels, finally discovering one that the cathedral is well known for, The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto. Constructed in 1407, it was the Chapterhouse of the Cathedral until 1676, when Saint Olegarius was canonized and the room became his mausoleum. The former Chapter Hall is not a large one and dimly lit, but highlighted on the main altar, is the burial chamber of Saint Olegarius, the bishop of Barcelona and above that, the 16th century Holy Christ of Lepanto. Quite beautiful!

Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto
Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto

The current Chapter Hall, located near the Cloister and now a museum space, displays 15th century paintings, an 11th century baptism font and the 14th century monstrance (the receptacle in which the host is held and displayed), made up from the campaign throne of King Martin the Humane. Definitely worth a look!

Eventually, I made my way back to the cathedral’s main floor and the high altar. The high altar, the main focus in the church, almost seems lost in the vastness of the space. With its towering vaulted ceilings, and the fact that it sits above the Chapel of Saint Eulalia with the staircase leading to it in front of the altar, makes me wonder if those attending mass can even see the priest performing his ritualistic duties. Nonetheless, I think it would be an amazing experience to attend mass here.

High Altar

Making my way down the stairs to the Chapel of Saint Eulalia, I peered through the wrought iron gate at the burial chamber of the saint. Designed by masters from Pisa and Siena between 1327 and 1339, the reliefs narrate the story of the saint and the sepulcher is crowned by five images, four angels with candlesticks and the image of the Virgin. Beyond the Gothic chamber is the original sepulcher of Saint Eulalia, found by the bishop of Frodoino in 878 in the cemetery of Santa Maria del Mar, and a piece of broken marble with the original inscription commemorating her. Though the crypt is not consistently illuminated, there is a coin slot that accepts payment (.50€) and will highlight the space for a few moments.

Chapel of Saint Eulalia

Finally, I turned toward the rear of the cathedral. In the center of the cathedral floor, between the high altar and the entrance was the Choir With the Golden Fleece Choir Stalls. Construction on this most significant work in the cathedral was begun in 1390 and designed in the Catalan Gothic Style with the canopies and pinnacles being added at the end of the 15th century. What I loved the most, however, was the colorful commemorative shields painted by Juan de Borgoña that relate to the order of the Golden Fleece who were summoned to meet in Barcelona in 1519 by their master, Emperor Charles V…thus their name. Another remarkable aspect of this space is the wooden pulpit carved by sculptor Pedro Çanglada in 1403.

The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral

Taking one last look around and at also at my watch, I realized that if I was going to visit the adjacent Diocesan museum, I had better make hast. Exiting the cathedral, I stood on the front steps and gazed up at the exterior. It really is a phenomenal piece of Gothic architecture!

It was an extremely short walk to the museum building next door, however, I had one more exterior feature that I wanted to see…the Door of Saint Ivo. Located under the bell towers, this portal was the main entrance for over five hundred years and is named for Saint Ivo, the patron saint of lawyers.

The Door of Saint Ivo

Finally, making my entrance into the museum, I began my explorations of of the artistic works that have been donated to the church. Housed in the building known as the Casa de la Pia Almoina (House of the Blessed Charity) or La Canonja (the Canonry) as it once housed the canons of St. Augustin, this structure is a part of a group of medieval buildings that are integrated into the city’s 4th century (A.D.) Roman wall.

Exterior of the Diocesan Museum and adjacent sculpture

The collection spans three floors and contains about 3,000 items including paintings, sculptures, ceramics and religious clothing which date from the late Roman era to the twentieth century.

The Diocesan Museum
The Diocesan Museum
The Diocesan Museum
The Diocesan Museum

After working my way through each of the floors of the museum, I noticed some of the workers tidying up and realized that it was the end of the day…time for me to go.

So, the next day, another co-worker whom I hadn’t really spoken to much on the way to Barcelona asked me how I spent my layover.

“I went to the Barcelona Cathedral. It was amazing!”

“Oh, you’re a fan of Gaudi! Did you love the Sagrada Familia?”

Sigh…

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The Barcelona Cathedral

  • https://catedralbcn.org/en/
  • Address:Pla de la Seu, s/n, 08002 Barcelona, Spain
  • Hours: Monday to Friday, 0930-1830, Saturday, 0930-1730, Sunday, 1400-1700
  • Mass schedule: Weekdays (in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament), 0900 (Catalan), 1100 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan). Sundays and Holidays (on the High Altar), 0900 (Catalan), 1000 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), 1300 (Catalan), 1800 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan). Saturdays and Holiday Eves (in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament), 0900 (Catalan), 1100 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), (High Altar), 1800 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan).
  • Admission: Cathedral, 9€ per person Cathedral and Diocesan Museum, 15€ per person
  • Getting There: Metro, Jaume I station or Urquinaona station

What Goes Up…Must Come Down, Part Two

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I love airplanes.

Well, obviously…I am a flight attendant, after all!

My job is performed on airplanes, I travel for pleasure on them, I enjoy seeing them in museum settings and especially love seeing them in action, no matter if they are modern or antique. They are all works of art and feats of engineering. The Wright Brothers imagined that they could take us up high into the atmosphere, show us the world from another viewpoint and bring us back down again safely. They did and continue to do so.

What is even cooler is that my husband loves airplanes too! Could you imagine if he was afraid to fly? No…definitely would never have worked out!

On a trip to Palm Springs, there was only one day that I would have to spend with my husband, since he was actually there for work. Although there were lots of things in the area to enjoy, I wanted to make sure that we participated in something that we could enjoy together. Visit a church? No, I have probably dragged him to enough churches to last him a lifetime! Go to the top of a mountain? Check out some airplanes? Yes to both!

The Palm Springs Air Museum fit the bill. Perfect for me. And. Perfect for him!

The idea for Palm Springs Air Museum was conceived in 1993 from the minds of three men, Charlie Mayer, Pete Madison and Dr. Mort Gubin during a break from an airport commission meeting. Since they knew various people with World War II airplane collections, they wondered why they just couldn’t have a museum to house a collection in Palm Springs.

After years of working with contacts and volunteers, construction was started in February 1996 and the Museum opened to the public on November 11, 1996. Two hangers were initially built to house the collection, a third, opened in 1999 and a fourth opened in May of 2017.

A simple idea during a meeting break has led to a Palm Springs venue which attracts over 100,000 visitors annually. The museum houses over 59 vintage flying and static aircraft, the Berger Foundation Youth Exploration Center, the Berger Foundation Classroom Annex, the General Ken Miles Science Center, an upstairs Library and Education Center with over 9,200 volumes (many primary source materials), a Community Room, Theater and tons of wall exhibits. Over the years, the museum has also hosted temporary exhibits and visiting aircraft such as the only flying B-29, the AVTT Vietnam Wall Memorial, the World Golf Hall of Fame and Museum Bob Hope Exhibit, Ansel Adams’ Photos of Manzanar and the Salute to WW2 Flying Tigers in China.

Spotting the museum’s amazing outdoor collection of aircraft while landing at the Palm Springs Airport on my arrival into the city, I made up my mind, then and there, that this was the one of the places that I would bring my husband. With our visit to the top of Mount Jacinto complete during the morning, we headed to Gene Autry Boulevard and parked in the parking lot amidst many aircraft on display in front of the museum. Saving these for later, we paid our admission, we were then greeted warmly by one of the volunteers and given a map of the premises. With so much to see, we decided to start with the first hanger and discover something new and exciting at each turn.

While it would be tedious and, to be honest, a bit boring, to try and describe everything we encountered, I will tell you about a few of the things I enjoyed most.

The short documentary describing the German prisoners which were kept in Texas during World War II.

The countless airplane models housed throughout the museum in glass cases along the walls and in the middle of the hangers.

The many military uniforms on display.

Staring up at the A-5 Release Bomb Rack while standing under the plane.

The automotive collections.

The outdoor collection.

The “named” aircraft.

Seeing the F-117 Nighthawk.

Sitting in the cockpit of US Air Force Roadrunner.

Seeing the “movie-famous” leer jet seen in The In-Laws, Airport 1975 (1974), Any Which Way You Can (1980) and Dragnet (1987) among others.

Playing with the in-flight simulators in the Library and Education Center. This by far was my favorite and in case we ever have an emergency on one of my flights where the flight attendants have to land because something has happened to our pilots…well, let’s just say that I can’t do it! My time on the simulator proved that we would be doomed if left up to me!

Learning about my husband’s extensive aircraft knowledge. The most educational part of our afternoon, however, was learning how much my husband knew about these planes. Spouting off facts and figures about so many of the aircraft on display, I finally had to ask him how he knew all of this. When he was a boy, his favorite things to do was build model airplanes and watch World War II movies and television shows (remember Hogan’s Heroes?)! Well, just when you think you know everything about your spouse!

Aircraft and monuments in the front of the museum.

We both spent a wonderful afternoon, sometimes losing each other in the vast hangers, each preoccupied with the things that interested us most. The idea that Charlie Mayer, Pete Madison and Dr. Mort Gubin dreamed of was one that probably evolved more than they ever imagined and I was proud to see many veterans walking through the premises.

A popular museum for not only visitor’s to the area, but it also hosts many functions throughout the year for various conventions and other private events.

That evening, while my husband was talking to a colleague about our outing that day, he discovered that his work function’s cocktail party, the next night, was going to be held…

At the Palm Spring Air Museum!

More fun for him!

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Palm Spring Air Museum

  • https://palmspringsairmuseum.org/
  • Address: 745 North Gene Autry Trail, Palm Springs, California 92262
  • Hours: 1000 to 1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $20, Seniors, Veterans, Retired Military, Teenagers (ages 13-17), $18, Active Duty & immediate family (significant other + children), free with ID, Children 12 and under with paying adult, Free.