Tag: world war 2

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The streets of Hanoi were calling…

With so many things left to see in Vietnam’s capital, even though I was exhausted from the long trip the day before, rising early was a must!  As I walked along P. Hang Ga, I learned that being up and out early had its advantages…the sidewalks were not as crowded, making it much easier to reach my first destination, Hoa Lo Prison Museum.

Hoa Lo Prison was built in 1896 by the French and was intended to house only 450 inmates.  The inmate population eventually exceeded that number, however, and terrible housing conditions resulted.  Many died within its confines, but without adequate security, many escaped the prison walls over the years.

The museum focuses mainly on the prison’s use during the French occupation up until the mid-1950s, during Vietnam’s struggle to gain independence.  Many displays show the deplorable conditions in which the prisoners lived and the punishments they received.  A French guillotine is showcased in one of the rooms and many cells are open for inspection.  There is also a memorial in the courtyard dedicated to the Vietnamese prisoners.

Two rooms also concentrate on the American pilots who were incarcerated in the prison during the American War (as it is called in Vietnam).  The U.S. POW’s referred to the prison as the Hanoi Hilton and after analyzing the many photos, it seemed as though the American prisoners were treated well, though from prisoners accounts, we have learned that was far from the truth.  American pilots that were incarcerated included Pete Peterson (the first U.S. ambassador to a unified Vietnam in 1995) and Senator John McCain (Republican nominee for the U.S. Presidency in 2008).  Senator McCain’s flight suit is displayed as well as photos of the Hanoi locals rescuing him from Truc Bach Lake.

After leaving Hoa Lo prison, a short walk took me to the Ambassadors’ Pagoda (Quán Sứ Temple) in the French Quarter area of Hanoi.  The well-maintained pagoda is the official headquarters of Buddhism in Hanoi.  The pagoda received its name during the 17th century when there was a guesthouse that housed the ambassadors of Buddhism from other countries.  Today, residents hold “send-off” ceremonies for the souls of recently deceased family members and government officials frequently make visits to the pagoda.

Deciding to walk a short ways through the French Quarter area, I circled Thien Quang Lake and headed back north to St. Joseph’s Cathedral, stopping to purchase some delicious donuts from a local Vietnamese woman.  She obviously thought I need fattening up as she filled the bag completely.  I had to ask her to take donuts out of the bag four times to get to the amount that I desired!

Eating my snack as I walked, I soon arrived at the Neo-Gothic Cathedral.  Noticing that the main entrance was blocked off, I admired the soaring facade with its twin bell towers and took pictures from its plaza.  Assuming that entry was only available during Mass-times, I continued my journey, only to find later that entry was available through the Diocese of Hanoi compound, a block away.

Arriving in the Hoan Kiem Lake area, I first noticed the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater.  Not quite understanding what a water puppet show entailed, I had heard that the shows were quite nice and something that all visitor’s to Hanoi should see.  Proceeding to the ticket counter, I purchased a ticket to the next show.  Having more than an hour before my performance, I decided to do a little shopping and visit the Ngoc Son Temple which sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake.

Ngoc Son (Temple of the Jade Mountain) is reached by entering the Tam Quan (Three-Passage Gate) and crossing the red wooden bridge called The Huc (Rising Sun), to the its location on the Jade Islet.  In the 16th-18th centuries, a country villa was located on the islet and used by the Trinh mandarins when boating on the lake.  In the 19th century, the temple had many different uses, but currently, it is dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, a 13th century Vietnamese national hero, scholar Van Xuong and to Nguyen Van Sieu a Confucian master who restored and expanded the temple in 1864.

There are a few buildings to visit in the temple, the Pen Tower, Dai Nghien, the Moon Contemplation Pavilion and the Pavilion Against Waves, all of which have symbolic meaning.  Once you have spent time within the temple, take time to observe the lake from this unique perspective.  If you are early enough in the morning, catch the sunrise from the bridge and throughout the day, watch for a giant turtle head floating above the water…a sign of good luck.

Leaving the busy temple, I headed back to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater.  Taking my seat in the middle of the theater, I marveled at the musicians accompanied by the cheo singers who chant the story and warn the puppets of danger.  Although I watched closely, I could never figure out how the puppets danced above the water.  Reading up on the art of Vietnamese puppetry, I did learn that the guilds closely preserve the secrets of their craft…so, I guess I will never know.  Enjoying something I had never experienced. it was also nice to be away from the heat of the day and have a chance to rest my feet.

The next point on my map was Ngôi Nhà di Sản (The Heritage House).  A small inconspicuous building on Ma May Street, I actually walked past it a couple of times before realizing its location.  One of the few intact remains of an old-style home in Hanoi, it is an excellent glimpse into how Hanoi’s residents once lived.

Further down the street from the Heritage House is the oldest temple in Hanoi, Bach Ma.  Also known as the White Horse Temple, it was built in the 11th century by the order of King Ly Thai To, the governor of Hanoi.  Everything you see today, however, dates from the late 18th century when the temple was restored.  Arriving at the end of the day, the woman in charge of the temple was closing up, but saw me approaching and invited me in.  She kindly allowed me to look through the entire building without feeling rushed.

The final things on my Hanoi “To Do” list were not far in the Old Quarter.  Navigating the crowded and narrow streets, I first made my way to the Old City Gate.  Somehow, I lost my bearings and was not sure which direction to turn.  With the help of a shopkeeper, I was pointed in the right direction and soon found the landmark.  In 1010, the thick city walls protected the city’s interior and the king and his court.  Access to the city was by four gates, only one of which remains today.  The gate still stands strong and motorbikes ride through the openings throughout the day.

Walking through the gates, I came to the highway and crossed over using the covered walkway.  Spanning 4 km of the Song Hong dyke, is the Hanoi Ceramic Road.  Completed in 2010 for Hanoi’s 1000th birthday celebration, it is comprised of scene’s depicting different periods in Vietnam’s history.  I first saw this mural upon my arrival into the city and then again while on the bus to Ha Long Bay.  It is wonderful to see the craftsmanship up close, though a little disconcerting with the traffic flying by.

Finally, my checklist was complete.  Everything that I had set out to do and see in the country’s capital was now stored away in my memory and on my camera’s SD card.  It was time to move on.  It would be an early morning as I set out for my next Vietnamese adventure…Hoi An.

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Hoa Lo Prison Museum

• http://hoalo.vn/
• Address:  1 Hoả Lò, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
• Hours:  0800-1130 and 1330-1700, daily.  Self-guided tours, signs in English, Vietnamese and French
• Admission:  10,000 Vietnamese dong (about US 50 cents)

Ambassadors’ Pagoda

• http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/ambassadors-pagoda-hanoi-vietnam/
• Address:  73 Quán Sứ, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
• Hours:  0900-1700, daily
• Admission:  free
• Modest dress required

Thang Long Water Puppet Theater

• http://thanglongwaterpuppet.org/en/
• Address:  57b Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam
• Hours:  Summer, 1610, 1720, 1830, 2000, Winter, 1500, 1610, 1720, 1830, 2000 and 2115, Sunday morning 0930
• Admission: Adults, 100,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $4.50), Children (under 1.2 meter), 60,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $2.70).  Assigned seating.

Ngoc Son Temple

• http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/ngoc-son-temple-hanoi-vietnam/
• Address: Dinh Tien Hoang St., Hanoi 100000, Vietnam, Hoan Kiem Lake
• Hours:  0730-1700, daily
• Admission:  30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $1.35)

Heritage House

• Address:  87 Ma May Street, Hanoi, Vietnam
• Hours:  0830-1700, daily, closed during the lunch hour
• Admission:  10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $.50)

Bach Ma Temple

• Address: 13 Hàng Giấy, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
• Hours:  0700-1100 and 1400-1700
• Admission:  free

Old City Gate

• Address:  56 Hàng Chiếu, Đồng Xuân, Hoàn Kiếm Đồng Xuân Hoàn Kiếm Hà Nội, Vietnam, Vietnam
• Hours:  Open always
• Admission:  free

Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural

• Address:  Ấp Thạnh Vinh, Phúc Xá, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
• Hours:  Open always
• Admission:  free